What are the care methods for azaleas? This one article teaches you to master them easily
1. Sunlight
To make azaleas bloom normally, you should ensure sufficient light, but do not let them be exposed to strong direct light. Azaleas prefer shady spots, so avoid sunburn, and you can also provide some shade treatment, which is more conducive to azalea growth.
2. Temperature
Temperature easily affects azalea flowering, and it should not be too high or too low. It is best to keep it at 20°C. In late autumn, starting in mid-October, move them indoors, and in winter place them in a spot with ample sunlight. The temperature must not be lower than 5°C, otherwise growth stops.
3. Removing flower buds
In the first few years of cultivation, azalea flower buds can be removed before blooming to speed up the formation of the branch framework and promote branch growth.
Alright, the above is the flowering period and care methods for azaleas. Everyone should be sure to admire them well when azaleas are in full bloom and enjoy the pleasure of the flowers blooming.
How to grow azaleas How should azaleas be cared for?
Azalea is one of China's top ten famous flowers. Among ornamental flowers, the azalea can be called beautiful in both flower and leaf, suitable for both ground planting and container growing, and is the most widely used ornamental flower. Azaleas have many classifications. The vast majority of varieties are low-growing with a natural form; a few varieties are tall and majestic with graceful branches and leaves. Flower colors are numerous and vary by variety, including pale purple, sprinkled gold, some even bicolor, and some flowers are fragrant. The capsule fruit turns dark brown when mature, and the seeds are dark yellow and tiny. Based on differences in flowering period, they can mainly be divided into four major categories: spring azaleas, summer azaleas, spring-summer azaleas, and Western azaleas. So how should azaleas be grown? Today the editor will take everyone to learn about azalea planting methods.
I. Soil
Generally, the cultivation methods for plants and flowers cannot be separated from a good soil environment, and for azalea cultivation methods, the soil environment is even more important. There are many ways to mix the culture soil for cultivating azaleas. Due to different cultivated varieties, the primary requirements are still the following conditions: loose, well-drained, well-aerated, acidic soil, rich in humus, and with sufficient base fertilizer.
II. Watering
Everyone knows that watering is a very important task, and for azalea cultivation methods, watering technique is very important. Because azalea roots are fine, when watering you must note that you cannot water too much and of course not too little; just the right amount is best. Also, the best time to water is in the morning and evening, which helps azaleas absorb water well.
III. Fertilizing
Azalea is a very dignified flower; it does not need much fertilizer to grow, so when fertilizing, note that you cannot apply too much. Applying too much fertilizer will make it difficult for azaleas to absorb and cause them to die. Proper fertilizing is what allows azaleas to grow well and produce beautiful flowers.
IV. Sunlight
Among azalea cultivation methods, there is also one very important and indispensable item: the absorption of sunlight. For plants and flowers, promoting photosynthesis is very necessary. Therefore, the growth of azaleas cannot be separated from sunlight, but they also cannot be exposed to the sun all day. Suitable sunlight can make azaleas produce even more beautiful and charming flowers.
V. Points to note
1. Azalea roots are as fine as hair strands, with few thick main roots. They are afraid of both dryness and wetness, and especially afraid of heavy fertilizer. If watered too much, the roots soak in water; if too dry, the branches and leaves shrink and the leaves fall off, posing a great threat to the plant. As for applying heavy fertilizer, it can endanger their lives.
2. After the flowers fade, the remaining flowers must be cut off to avoid seed formation consuming nutrients. After new branches sprout, appropriately thin the branches, deciding what to keep or remove according to the plant's growth vigor.
3. Azaleas are best planted in clay pots, because clay pots absorb water and allow air through, which is conducive to root growth and development and lush branches and leaves.
4. There are particular requirements for where to place potted azaleas. Generally they should be placed on a southeast-facing balcony, and it must be ventilated, moving them as little as possible. Without ventilation, they are prone to black spot disease and massive leaf drop.
5. Azaleas also have moderate light requirements, and direct light should be avoided in summer. Fertilizing should follow the principle of light fertilizer applied frequently; if it can be diluted, do not make it concentrated. Apply an organic compound fertilizer to the pot soil once a month. Spray potassium dihydrogen phosphate once every 10 days as a foliar fertilizer. Water in a timely manner, and you can also add edible vinegar to the water to increase acidity.
6. Timely thin buds and leaves, removing part of the flower buds and leaves that have grown too many and too densely, so that air circulates and nutrients concentrate in the flower buds. After the flower buds form, increase nutrition and apply a moderate amount of additional phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, otherwise the flower buds will turn into leaf buds.
7. The main reasons for azalea leaf drop and failure to bloom are: too strong direct light in summer, frost damage from severe cold, too much watering, fertilizer too concentrated, being kept indoors for too long, being placed in a place with no air circulation or in a dark, damp place, being exposed to acid rain, etc. Therefore, these situations should be avoided during care.
8. Repotting and changing soil does not need to be done every year. Generally it is done once every 2 to 3 years, and the roots should be damaged as little as possible. The time should be after the flowers fade or in autumn, and at the same time spray thiophanate to prevent disease.
9. The main pests of azaleas are red spiders, aphids, etc., which can be sprayed and killed with fenvalerate and similar products, with good results. If they are not dead after three days, spray again. The main disease is black spot disease, caused by a stuffy, hot environment and lack of light. Measures can be taken to promote air circulation on the one hand, and spray Bordeaux mixture and carbendazim on the other.
10. The main propagation method for azaleas is cuttings. Around Grain in Ear, choose new branches 5 cm to 10 cm long, cut them off at the branching point, strip off the lower leaves, keep 3 to 4 top leaves, insert 1/3 of the branch into the soil, spray enough water, and cover with plastic film. Strengthen management normally, and transplant after one year.
The above is the azalea care methods introduced by Succulent Garden for everyone. We hope it can be helpful to everyone. Welcome to continue following Succulent Garden to learn more common knowledge about azalea care!
Azalea cultivation Azalea care methods
Azalea care methods, how to cultivate beautiful azaleas.
Azalea introduction
One of China's top ten famous flowers. Among all ornamental flowering trees and shrubs, it can be called beautiful in both flower and leaf, suitable for both ground planting and container growing, and the most widely used. Bai Juyi praised it: "Idly pluck two branches and hold them in hand, look closely and they seem not to exist in the mortal world; among flowers this thing is Xi Shi, while hibiscus and peony are all Mo Mu." In the natural distribution of azaleas in the world, no region can match China's azaleas in the number of species and the enormity of quantity. China is truly a treasure house of the world's azalea resources! Today Jiangxi, Anhui, and Guizhou use the azalea as their provincial flower, and as many as seven or eight cities have designated it as their city flower.
1. It is one of China's top ten famous flowers. The azalea can be said to be beautiful in flower, beautiful in leaf, and widely used. As one of the most famous flowers in the world today, it is a small shrub in the Ericaceae family, with both evergreen and deciduous types. Azaleas are distributed in temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere. Among more than 900 varieties worldwide, China has nearly 600 species, so the azalea has been nominated by some enthusiasts as one of China's candidate national flowers. The colorful azaleas arouse people's warm and beautiful feelings toward life, and they also symbolize the prosperity and strength of the country and the happy life of the people. This is the true meaning of our people's love for azaleas. Therefore, the azalea has become the city flower of many cities in our country and also the national flower of many countries. It is very beautiful, with tubular flowers in many colors such as deep red, pale red, rose, purple, and white. When azaleas bloom in spring, the whole mountain is brightly colored, like rosy clouds encircling the forest, truly deserving the title "Xi Shi among flowers."
2. It has many classifications. The vast majority of varieties are low-growing with a natural form; a few varieties are tall and majestic with graceful branches and leaves. Low-growing varieties have many branches, with fine and dense twigs; young branches are hairy, brown or brownish. Flowers are solitary or in racemes, with corollas bell-shaped, tubular, or broadly funnel-shaped, usually five-lobed. Flower colors are numerous and vary by variety, including pale purple, sprinkled gold, some even bicolor, and some flowers are fragrant. The capsule fruit turns dark brown when mature, and the seeds are dark yellow and tiny. Based on differences in flowering period, they can mainly be divided into four major categories: spring azaleas, summer azaleas, spring-summer azaleas, and Western azaleas.
3. Its living environment. Azaleas like semi-shaded environments and avoid direct exposure to strong sun; they like cool, humid climates and fear hot, dry weather; they like acidic soil and water and avoid alkalinity; they like loose light loam rich in humus and fear poorly drained clay soil; they like light fertilizer water and avoid concentrated fertilizer water. They have certain light requirements but are not tolerant of exposure. In summer and autumn, deciduous trees or shade frames should block the strong sun, and the ground should often be sprayed with water. Azaleas generally flush shoots in spring and autumn, mainly in spring. The most suitable growth temperature is 15-20°C. When the temperature exceeds 30°C or falls below 5°C, growth stagnates. At the same time, they are also tolerant of pruning, and latent buds sprout very easily after being stimulated, which can be used to control tree shape and rejuvenate the plant.
What kind of culture soil is suitable for azaleas?
The choice of soil is crucial to the growth and development of azaleas. There are many ways to mix the culture soil for cultivating azaleas, varying by cultivated variety, but the following conditions must be met: loose, well-drained, well-aerated, acidic soil, rich in humus, and with sufficient base fertilizer. Usually azaleas grow vigorously only in acidic loam; if in alkaline soil, they soon turn yellow, decline, and die. Azaleas are regarded as an indicator plant for acidic soil. Leaf mold soil is generally acidic, and pine needle humus soil is the best, making it a relatively ideal culture soil for planting azaleas. It can be dug from under pine and cypress forests in mountainous areas, or soil can be taken from the ground under many pine and cypress trees planted in courtyards. Before use, add an appropriate amount of sulfur powder and alum to increase its acidity before using it. Soil with high humus content is most suitable for azalea growth. With more humus, it can promptly replenish nutrients in the soil, improve soil structure, and make the soil retain water, retain fertilizer, allow air through, absorb heat, and keep warm. It can also reduce the harm of toxic substances in the soil and promote the azalea root system to spread in all directions.
The new product black mountain soil from Tongguan Mountain in Yixing, Jiangsu, and Fenghua, Zhejiang, is most suitable for the growth and development of azaleas and is widely used in various places. Culture soil can also be made at home. Take 2 parts weathered mountain topsoil, 1 part fallen leaves, and 1 part dry dung of herbivorous animals, pile and mix for 1 year, sieve out impurities, and it is ready to use. Alternatively, use 3 parts mountain surface soil, 3 parts horse manure, 3 parts fallen leaves and weeds, and 1 part human feces and urine, pile and compost in layers, and after 1-2 years sieve and use. The prepared culture soil should be stored indoors to prevent reduced fertility from sun and rain.
What should be noted when potting and repotting azaleas?
Azaleas should be potted once the cuttings have survived. Clay pots with good permeability are best, purple sand pots are second, and glazed and porcelain pots are the worst. When potting, pay attention to choosing the size of the flower pot, and absolutely avoid using a large pot for small seedlings. If the pot is too large, the pot soil will not dry for a long time, aeration will be poor, and at the same time the root system will find it hard to reach the pot wall, affecting the development of the seedlings. Generally, for cuttings, a clay pot about 10 cm in diameter can be chosen, and after one year repot into a flower pot about 15 cm. When potting, pay attention to making a drainage layer. First cover the drainage hole with a tile, then put in 1/3 coarse soil particles, and add a little fine soil. Then place the azalea seedling in, holding the seedling upright with one hand and filling soil into the pot with the other. Note that the soil can only be filled to 2 cm below the pot rim, not too full, to facilitate future watering. Finally, press firmly around the pot and shake the flower pot to make the pot surface level. After planting, water thoroughly once with a watering can. Note that when watering, you must water until water seeps out from the bottom of the pot. If watering is not thorough and only the surface layer is moistened but not the inner layer, the potted flower will dry to death.
There are two situations in which azaleas need repotting. First, when the seedling has grown larger and the root system fills the pot soil, requiring an expanded range for root extension. Normally pay attention to whether roots are extending from the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot; if so, repotting should be carried out, moving the plant from a small pot into a large pot. Second, after the potted flower has grown for 2-3 years, the nutrients in the pot soil are nearly exhausted. To replenish nutrients and improve the soil, the pot soil should be replaced.
Azalea repotting is generally carried out after the flowers fade, or before bud formation in autumn. When repotting, remove part of the old soil, and note that sharp scissors should be used to trim away old roots. Old roots are those rootlets that grow poorly and are black and shriveled. But note: when repotting seedlings, roots must not be trimmed. When repotting plants, note that the roots should carry a soil ball. After potting, also note that the first watering should be thorough, and for the next several days let it be somewhat dry. If too wet, the root cut surfaces will rot. Generally, normal watering can resume only after new roots grow. If repotting in autumn, it is best to do it in October. Although azaleas like coolness, after repotting they should be kept warm for overwintering. If there is no greenhouse, build a small shed in a south-facing, sunny, ventilated place and cover it with plastic film to overwinter safely. For azalea repotting, generally small seedlings are repotted once a year, and large azaleas are repotted once every 2-3 years.
How should azaleas be watered?
Watering azaleas is a very important task. Because azalea roots are relatively fine and weak, they fear waterlogging and are not drought-tolerant. Too dry or too wet is unfavorable to plant growth, so special attention must be paid to controlling water volume. If water is lacking during the leaf expansion period, the azalea leaves will turn yellow and curl, and if very dry, they may even wither and die. If water is lacking during flowering, the petals will become soft and shriveled, the flowers will droop, the flower color will be dull, and the flowers may even wither and die. Therefore, watering must be done according to conditions such as sunny or rainy weather, dry or humid air, and the water content of the pot soil.
Watering time should be in the morning and evening, and especially in hot summer it is even more unsuitable to water at noon. This is because after the roots are stimulated by cold water, the flower will be harmed. The principle of watering is not to water when not dry, and to water thoroughly when watering, strictly preventing half-watering. Spring and autumn are the periods of azalea growth, flowering, and bud development, so water supply should be appropriately greater, but during the flowering period it should not be watered too much; too much water will make the flowers fade early. Under normal circumstances, in spring and autumn, water once every 2-3 days. In summer, new branches sprout, growth is vigorous, and more water is consumed. In addition, with high temperatures and dry air, it is necessary to water sufficiently 1-2 times a day. If it has not rained for several days and the air is dry, also use a fine-nozzle watering can to spray clean water on the flowers and leaves, and spray some on the ground around the flower pot as well to increase air humidity. During the plum rain season or in rainy conditions, watering should be stopped and accumulated water in the pot should be drained promptly. After the beginning of autumn, although the temperature decreases, the air is dry and evaporation is still large, so watering should also be done frequently to keep the pot soil moist. During flower bud differentiation, water volume should be appropriately controlled to promote flower bud formation. After October, when the flower pot is moved indoors, watering should be reduced as appropriate. With less water content in the branches and trunks, the plant tissues develop fully and can increase cold resistance. At this time, just keep the pot soil slightly moist.
How should water quality be treated when watering azaleas?
When watering azaleas, special attention should be paid to water quality. It is best to use natural rainwater, because natural rainwater does not contain chemicals such as bleaching powder or impurities. Next is river water and pond water, and then tap water. Tap water is softened water that has undergone purification treatment, and it contains chemical agents such as bleaching powder, liquid chlorine, and alum. If this kind of water is used for a long time, the alkalinity in the pot soil will gradually increase, which is unfavorable to azalea growth. Therefore, water quality must be treated before use. The treatment method is to acidify it. For water that is neutral or slightly alkaline, prepare it into acidic water. The usual method is to use ferrous sulfate (green vitriol) and edible vinegar to acidify the water. If the water is on the highly alkaline side, ferrous sulfate and edible vinegar can be used together, and the specific amounts can be prepared according to the measured pH values of the water, ferrous sulfate, and vinegar. A simple method is to water for a long time with an aqueous solution containing 0.1%-0.5% ferrous sulfate, or sprinkle a small amount of ferrous sulfate on the pot surface every 10-15 days. You can also water once every 10-15 days with an aqueous solution containing 0.5%-1% edible vinegar. For watering, you can also use settled tap water and well water. Settling the water can reduce the harm of harmful ions in tap water; it can also raise the water temperature of well water and eliminate the temperature difference between the water and the pot soil, which helps root absorption. When using tap water, also add 0.15% ferrous sulfate. If watering can be alternated with decomposed fertilizer liquid water, it is even more beneficial. This is because commonly using these two kinds of water can keep the pot soil at a certain acidity and also supply certain nutrients, suitable for the needs of azalea growth.
How should azaleas be fertilized?
Azalea is a flower that does not need heavy fertilizer. If fertilizer is applied too much or too concentrated, it will instead be unfavorable to its growth. But this is not to say that no fertilizer should be applied. To make it bloom more and larger, it still needs timely and appropriate fertilizing. Therefore, flower-growing experts have summed up the experience of fertilizing in 8 words: "Apply dry fertilizer sparingly, apply liquid fertilizer thinly." This is very appropriate and worth referring to for flower growers. Under normal circumstances, 1-2 year old seedlings do not need fertilizing, because the fertility contained in the humus soil is already enough to supply the needs of seedling growth and development. For small plants 2-3 years old, from late spring or early summer, apply once every 10-15 days a dilute cake fertilizer water or dilute alum fertilizer water. For plants over 4 years old, apply about 20 grams of dry cake fertilizer each spring and autumn. In mid-June, apply a quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once to promote flower bud differentiation. After June, fertilizing can be stopped. After the flowers fade, just when new branches are growing, apply a liquid fertilizer of slightly higher concentration once, but it must not be applied too concentrated, and raw fertilizer must not be applied, otherwise the root system will be damaged. Applying too much fertilizer in summer will cause old leaves to fall and new leaves to turn yellow. It is particularly worth noting that for household azaleas, the most likely problem is not a lack of fertilizer in the plant, but damage caused by excessive fertilizing. If situations such as yellowing and withering of leaves occur due to too much fertilizer, immediately stop fertilizing, dig out the dry fertilizer, and water more to wash away the fertilizer accumulated in the soil. After watering, move it to a ventilated place for care, and some need to be rinsed twice. In this way, after half a year they can gradually grow normally.
If no abnormality appears in summer, then after the beginning of autumn, azaleas will begin a second period of vigorous growth. During this short period, apply 1-2 additional dilute liquids of phosphorus fertilizer such as superphosphate to supply the needs of plant growth and bud formation. After each fertilizing, water once with clean water 2 days later, and also loosen the pot soil once to fully aerate the pot soil. After winter begins, as the weather gradually turns cold, the plant stops growing, and fertilizing should also stop immediately. If fertilizing is not stopped, causing the plant to sprout tender leaves, it will instead make it harder for the azalea to overwinter, so do not be careless at all.
How should azaleas be pruned and shaped?
Azaleas have strong sprouting and regenerative ability. Every 1-2 years after the flowers fade, they should be moved into a flower pot a bit larger than the original, and fresh culture soil should be used. Experienced flower growers often combine repotting with pruning and shaping, consciously pruning out a beautiful tree shape. When pruning, remove overly dense branches, crossing branches, weak branches, drooping branches, leggy branches, and diseased or pest-infested branches. This is not only for the beauty of the tree shape, but also to improve ventilation and light conditions, save nutrients, and promote strong main branches, so as to sprout new shoots as soon as possible and achieve the goal of more flowers, larger flowers, and brighter colors when blooming the next year.
After azaleas bloom, their spent flowers often do not fall for a long time, which consumes quite a lot of nutrients. In order not to let nutrients be consumed in vain, the spent flowers should be picked off in time so that nutrients can supply the needs of sprouting new branches. In addition, the shorter summer azaleas grow many lateral branches. Every spring, many small branches sprout from the branches at the base. In order to concentrate nutrients to supply the main branches and flowers and let them grow faster and larger, these small branches should also be cut off in time. If there are too many flower buds, besides keeping 1 bud per branch, remove the rest of the flower buds as well. Exactly what tree shape to prune into can be decided according to your own preference. There are umbrella shape, round shape, semicircular shape, pagoda shape, square shape, etc. You can choose freely and then deliberately prune accordingly.
How do azaleas propagate by cuttings?
Azaleas can be propagated by five methods: cuttings, grafting, layering, division, and sowing. Among these, the cutting method is the most common and produces the largest number of propagules; layering produces seedlings fastest; grafting is the most complex, and grafting is used only for varieties that are difficult to root by cuttings; sowing is mainly used for breeding varieties.
When using cutting propagation, a new shallow clay pot with a 20 cm diameter is best, because it has good air permeability and roots easily. A culture soil mixed from 20% humus garden soil, 40% horse manure crumbs, and 40% river sand can be used as the substrate. The best time for cuttings is spring (May) and autumn (October), when the temperature is between 20-25°C, most suitable for cuttings. When taking cuttings, choose healthy current-year semi-lignified shoot tips as cuttings, use very sharp pruning shears, cut 6-10 cm with nodes, and the cut should be smooth and neat. Remove the lower leaves and keep only 3-4 small leaves at the top. Buy 1 ampoule of vitamin B12 injection, open it, dip the cutting into the liquid, take it out and let it dry for a while, then it can be inserted. Before inserting, use a watering can the day before to moisten the culture soil in the pot, but do not spray too much. By the next day it will be just moist, most suitable for cuttings. The insertion depth is 3-4 cm. When inserting, first use chopsticks to poke a hole in the soil, then insert the cutting, press the soil firm with your hand so that the pot soil and the cutting are in full contact, and then water thoroughly once. After inserting, it is best to cover the flower pot with a plastic bag and tie the bag opening tightly with a string. Open it again when watering is needed, and tie it tightly again after watering. The pot with cuttings should be placed in a place without direct sunlight. The pot soil with cuttings should be sprayed with water every day for 10 days. Except on rainy days, spray once on cloudy days, and spray twice when the climate is dry, but the amount of water sprayed each day should not be too much. After 10 days, still frequently pay attention to keeping the soil moist. Within 4-5 weeks, shade should be provided, and only after sprouting can they gradually receive some sunlight. Generally it takes about 2 months to root. After that, it is only necessary to shade for 2-3 hours at noon, and the rest of the time they can be allowed to receive light, so as to facilitate photosynthesis and manufacture nutrients on their own.
How are azaleas propagated by layering?
Azalea layering propagation is also one of the commonly used propagation methods, generally using air layering. Azalea layering is often carried out in April-May. The specific operation is: first choose a healthy 2-3 year old branch on the mother azalea plant in the pot. About 10-12 cm from the branch tip, use a sharp knife to cut a ring of bark about 1 cm wide around the branch. Gently strip off the phloem sieve tubes cleanly, cutting off the channel by which leaves send manufactured organic matter downward, causing it to accumulate, thereby accelerating cell division to form a tumor-like protrusion and sprout root buds. Then loosely wrap a rectangular plastic film around it twice. Tie it tightly with fine string 2-3 cm below the ring cut, leave the upper end of the plastic film open in the shape of a trumpet bag, then immediately fill in moist soil and a little moss, and tie the upper opening of the bag tightly. Move the flower pot to a place not reached by direct sunlight for routine management. When watering, spray water on the leaves and let the water flow down along the branch and slowly seep into the bag, keeping the soil in the bag always moist, so as to help the wound on the branch heal and make new rootlets sprout as early as possible. After about 3-4 months, when the rootlets have grown to 2-3 cm long, the branch can be cut off, separated from the mother plant, and planted into new pot soil.
How are azaleas propagated by sowing?
Sowing is sexual reproduction. Because the seed-setting rate of natural hybridization is very low, artificial pollination is generally required to increase the seed-setting rate of azaleas and obtain more seeds. The main method is: when azaleas are in full bloom, choose a healthy mother plant with good growth and beautiful flower color, move it to a greenhouse, select and keep 3-4 flowers per pot that are large and bloom early, remove the stamens and new buds near the flowers so that nutrients are concentrated, and when mucus appears on the stigma, use a new writing brush to dip the father plant's pollen and apply it several times. One week after pollination, move the flower pot outdoors and strengthen water and fertilizer management. After about 5-6 months of growth and development, by November-December the fruit can be seen gradually changing from green to brown, and the seeds are mature. Then harvest them, let them dry in the shade, winnow them clean, and place them in a cool, ventilated place.
Azalea seeds are very small and should not be stored for a long time, otherwise the germination rate will be low. If they are evergreen azalea seeds, they should be sown immediately after harvesting, sown in pots in a greenhouse; if they are deciduous azalea seeds, they can be kept until next spring for sowing.
For sowing, a shallow clay pot is suitable. For the sowing soil, you can dig loose surface soil with moss from the surface of a shady hillside, pick out stone particles, and it is best to spray it once with a dilution of 40% formalin plus 100 times water for disinfection, then let it dry. It can also be placed in steam for 15-25 minutes for disinfection, then sun-dried until half dry and ready for use. Before sowing, first moisten the shallow pot, put a layer of about 2 cm of charcoal crumbs on the bottom, then spread a layer of 5-6 cm of sterilized soil, scrape it level, press it slightly firm, then evenly distribute the seeds on top in sections, press gently. Do not use a watering can to spray water; it is best to use the bottom-watering method of soaking the pot. Cover it with a piece of glass and move it to a greenhouse. When the pot soil surface is dry, spray some water in mist form, but do not spray too much. Just keep the pot soil moist frequently.
After sowing, they generally germinate in 5-6 weeks. When the seedlings grow 2-3 true leaves, they can be gently picked out with small bamboo pieces and planted separately in other pots. Do not plant too densely; keep them sparse. After planting, shade with reed mats, etc. Do not let direct sunlight hit them, and do not let rain fall on them. When the seedlings are tender, do not fertilize. Wait until the next year when the seedlings grow to nearly 10 cm tall, then begin applying thin fertilizer; generally from late spring to early autumn of the second year, they can be planted separately as individual plants. By the third year, when the seedlings grow to 20 cm tall, if cultivated well, a few plants can bloom.
What common diseases do azaleas have? How should they be prevented and controlled?
The main diseases of azaleas include root rot, brown spot, black spot, leaf blight, and iron deficiency chlorosis.
After azaleas suffer from root rot, growth weakens, leaves wilt and dry up, and water-soaked brown patches appear on the root surface. In severe cases, they become soft and rot, gradually decaying and peeling, and the xylem turns black. This disease is most likely to occur in environments with high temperature and high humidity.
The prevention and control method is to strictly disinfect the culture soil before repotting, and keep the soil loose and moist with good permeability, avoiding water accumulation. If an infected plant is found, promptly deal with the diseased plant and pot soil. For treatment, wash the diseased plant with a 0.1% potassium permanganate aqueous solution or 2% ferrous sulfate, then rinse with clean water and repot. A solution made from 70% thiophanate wettable powder plus 1000 times water sprayed on the pot soil can cure it.
Brown spot is one of the main diseases of azaleas. When the disease first appears, small brown spots appear on the leaf surface and gradually develop into irregular large spots. Many black or grayish-brown small dots form on the diseased spots, causing affected leaves to turn yellow and fall off, affecting flowering that year and the development of flower buds the next year. This disease often occurs during the plum rain season when humidity is high.
The treatment method is to normally pay attention to giving the plant ventilation and light, not letting humidity become too high, and applying more organic fertilizer and mixed nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer to enhance the plant's resistance to infection and growth ability. If diseased leaves are found, remove them promptly and burn them in a centralized place. In the early stage of the disease, spray 0.5% Bordeaux mixture or 0.4 Baume degree lime sulfur mixture, and add 4% flour to increase adhesion. Leaf spot and black spot can also be treated with the same method.
Iron deficiency chlorosis often occurs in areas where the soil is on the alkaline side. When the condition is mild, only delayed greening of the plant appears; when severe, the leaf tissue can all turn yellow, and the leaf margins scorch and wither. When the disease occurs, it is most obvious on the leaves at the top shoots of the plant, generally caused by internal iron deficiency.
The prevention and control method is to change the iron-deficient nature of the soil and reduce soil alkalinity. Apply more organic fertilizer to improve clayey soil. For iron-deficient plants, directly spray 0.2%-0.3% ferrous sulfate liquid. You can also use chopsticks to poke several holes about 15 cm deep in the soil around the plant, slowly inject a 1:30 ferrous sulfate aqueous solution, fill the holes, so as to increase soil acidity and reduce alkalinity.
The onset and environmental conditions of azalea black spot disease are similar to brown spot, and similar methods can also be used for prevention and control.
What common pests do azaleas have? How should they be prevented and controlled?
Common pests of azaleas include: red spiders, lace bugs, aphids, and short-bearded mites. Red spiders are tiny in size but cause serious harm to azaleas. Azaleas cultivated in high-rise buildings are most prone to this kind of pest.
The prevention and control method is manual capture and killing. For chemical pest control, spray 5 Baume degree lime sulfur mixture, or use equal parts of walnut leaves, oleander leaves, and sweet wormwood, crush and soak them to extract the juice, dilute with water and spray. Spraying 1000 times water diluted dichlorvos liquid is also a good method.
The adult lace bug is small and flat, about 4 mm long, black, and is one of the most harmful pests to evergreen azaleas. It often pierces and sucks leaf fluid on the back of leaves, causing yellow-white spots to appear on the upper side of the damaged leaf surface, making leaves fall off, weakening tree vigor, and affecting growth and flowering. Azaleas in greenhouses are extremely prone to this pest.
The prevention and control method is mainly chemical spraying. You can spray 90% trichlorfon original powder 1000 times liquid, or 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1500 times liquid, or 50% fenitrothion emulsion 1000-1500 times liquid for prevention and control.
Aphids mainly harm azalea young branches and leaves. In mild cases, they can make leaves lose their green color; in severe cases, they make leaves curl, harden, and become brittle, unable to absorb nutrients, affecting flowering.
The prevention and control method is to pay special attention to aphids during the overwintering period. After winter begins, spray 5 Baume degree lime sulfur mixture once on the plant to eliminate overwintering eggs, and remove weeds near the flowers to eliminate sources of the pest. During the period of aphid damage, use 40% dimethoate or omethoate plus 1200 times water to make a solution for continuous spraying. 3-4 times can be effective.
The short-bearded mite is one of the important pests of azaleas. It often pierces and sucks sap near the main vein on the underside of leaves, causing many oily patches to form on the leaf underside, and finally causing leaves to fall off. This pest is obovate, about 0.3 mm long, flat, with body colors of red, dark red, and rusty red, irregular black spots on the back, and irregular black patches on the sides. This pest is most common in summer when the weather is hot and dry, and decreases immediately when rainfall is abundant.
For the prevention and control method, spray 0.5 Baume degree lime sulfur mixture once each in mid-to-late October and early spring in March, or spray 25% insecticidal aqueous solution 500 times liquid, and the effect is also good.