What to Do When Polyscias Leaves Turn Yellow and Drop? Causes and Solutions

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

I. Overwatering Polyscias (Ming aralia) likes moisture but hates waterlogged soil, so overwatering does not promote its growth; instead, it causes adverse symptoms such as yellowing leaves. Because Polyscias is also drought-tolerant, its roots can grow normally in dry conditions, but they cannot tolerate being soaked in water. Once there is too much water,

I. Overwatering

Polyscias likes moisture but hates waterlogged soil, so overwatering does not promote its growth; instead, it causes adverse symptoms such as yellowing leaves.

Because Polyscias is also drought-tolerant, its roots can grow normally in dry conditions, but they cannot tolerate being soaked in water. Once there is too much water, the roots will rot, which in turn affects leaf growth and causes gradual yellowing.

Prevention and Control Measures

Reduce and control the amount of watering, especially in cold autumn and winter weather. Do not water too much, to prevent root rot.

II. Lack of Light

Polyscias prefers a high-temperature environment and needs sufficient light for growth. So when you keep Polyscias in a shaded place, it cannot absorb the light it needs for growth, and its leaves will wilt and then turn yellow.

Prevention and Control Measures

Place Polyscias in a spot with plenty of light and good ventilation, and be careful to avoid direct strong sunlight in summer.

III. Pest Infestation

The most common pest of Polyscias is the red spider mite. This pest damages the leaves, causing reddish-brown spots to appear on them. As the red spider mites suck the plant's sap, the leaves gradually turn yellow.

Prevention and Control Measures

You can rinse the plant with water to wash the red spider mites away, or spray the plant with the acaricide Kelmite to eliminate the pest.

IV. Fertilizer Concentration Too High

Perhaps when you fertilized your Polyscias, you applied it too often and at too high a concentration, which burns the plant's roots and causes the leaves to turn yellow.

Prevention and Control Measures

If this happens, stop fertilizing immediately, or flush out the applied concentrated fertilizer with water. Just flush several times.

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

Ten Questions on Hydroponic Flower Techniques

1. Which flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages do they have?

Answer: In theory, any flower can be grown hydroponically, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need controlled water to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plants that are sensitive to oxygen deficiency need air pumped into the nutrient solution at regular intervals to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so appropriate nutrient solution formulas must be used. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo proper acclimation and adaptation before they can be grown hydroponically. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including the golden
pothos (Epipremnum aureum), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Peperomia, Sun God (Scindapsus), Calathea, 'Little Angel' (Aglaonema), 'Marianne' (Dieffenbachia), snake plant (Sansevieria), golden barrel cactus (Echinocactus grusonii) and other cactus balls, as well as jewel orchid (Anoectochilus) and tiger tail orchid (Sansevieria). Hydroponic flowers can go long periods without watering or fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the first choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, and others. It is a colorless, odorless, non-toxic product, so please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated solutions?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentrations of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution are too high, they can precipitate each other and cause the nutrients to become ineffective. Therefore, to ensure an adequate and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So the hydroponic nutrient solutions currently sold on the market that come as just one part often have unbalanced nutrients.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container always better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower's root system and must not be too much. Generally, when the root system is well developed, part of the roots should be left exposed to the air above the liquid surface, so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial for healthy root growth. Never add too much nutrient solution to the container, but also not too little; if there is too little, you will need to replenish the nutrient solution frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer about 5-10 cm deep is enough.

5. Do household hydroponic flowers need sunlight?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If it is a shade-loving species, it should not be exposed to direct sunlight. However, because household hydroponic flowers are usually placed in environments with poor light, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular intervals. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day a week is enough.

6. Do hydroponic flowers require a different nutrient solution for each type of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every type of flower requires its own corresponding nutrient solution. It is enough to choose different nutrient solutions according to different major categories; of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. At present, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Laboratory of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, inner plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown in soil be directly converted to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments. First, take the soil-grown flower out and wash the roots clean, then soak the roots in a hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before placing them in a hydroponic container for hydroponic cultivation.

8. Do fish kept together with flowers need to be fed?

Answer: No feeding is needed. Because most of the small fish kept together with flowers only need to absorb plankton and secretions from the roots in the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If fed, they are more likely to overeat and die. At the same time, adding feed also tends to make the nutrient solution cloudy and reduces the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of both flowers and fish.

9. When growing hydroponic flowers, how should the nutrient solution be replenished or replaced?

Answer: This depends on the rate at which the plant consumes water. If the weather is dry and the plant is large, generally the nutrient solution needs to be replenished once about every 15-20 days, and adding an appropriate amount of nutrient solution at that time is enough. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; just add about 1/3-1/2 of the container's depth.

10. How long is the shelf life of concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it away from light as much as possible and do not place it where children can reach it.
Experience Talk on Household Hydroponic Flowers

As an eco-friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-grown flowers: 1) Water replaces soil, with no odor and no smell, clean and hygienic. 2) No need to repot or loosen the soil, reducing the labor of growing flowers. 3) Light in weight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4) Flexible in material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor decoration. 5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can remain stable above 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Many years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for household hydroponic flowers, such as Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), dieffenbachia, monstera, taro (Alocasia), pothos, lucky bamboo, asparagus fern, spider plant, aloe, inch plant, Tradescantia, coleus, Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), miniature coconut palm, hibiscus, and fuchsia. In addition, scarlet sage, azalea, camellia, cyclamen, amaryllis, calla lily, crown of thorns, kalanchoe, and hyacinth, among these flowering ornamental plants, also have good results with hydroponics. For hydroponic flowers such as sword fern, pot marigold, petunia, and red-backed eupatorium, the survival rate is not high.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. 1) Containers. Any beautiful container that can hold water will do. It is best to use transparent containers, such as beverage bottles (cut off the narrow neck), wine glasses, teacups, vases, fish tanks, etc. The top opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, and texture of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flower. It is best to clean and disinfect them before use. 2) Bedding materials. Bedding materials are often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, etc. Small pebbles of elegant appearance and varied shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. The time for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are the most suitable seasons for hydroponics, but this also varies with flower species. If the indoor temperature is between 15°C and 28°C, foliage plants can be grown hydroponically all year round. Flowering plants are best grown hydroponically when the first flower bud is about to open. For example, cyclamen, hyacinth, azalea, and camellia are often grown hydroponically in early January, so that the full bloom period falls during the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.

4. Obtaining and treating hydroponic materials. 1) Root-washing method. Select a potted plant with a full shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases, remove it from the pot and soil, wash the soil off the roots with water close to room temperature, and cut off roots that have already rotted and aged; if the fibrous roots are dense, about 1/3 can be cut off, but care should be taken to avoid damaging new roots. Then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes (both to sterilize and disinfect, and to promote new root growth), after which hydroponic cultivation can begin. This method is mostly used for larger plants and flowers that are difficult to root. 2) Water-cutting method. Select strong, disease-free, semi-lignified branches of the current year, cut them off and insert them into water for hydroponic cultivation. The cut is usually made two or three millimeters below a stem node. The cut end should be trimmed smooth with a sharp knife (wiped and disinfected beforehand with white liquor), and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to help the cuttings root. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water use and water changing for hydroponics. 1) Water use. Mountain spring water is best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, non-settling, and contains a variety of trace elements necessary for plant growth. Cooled boiled water is second best. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities and tends to settle, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial to flower growth. 2) Water changing. Because of the plant's normal growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponics, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed, and at the same time the roots produce mucus, so the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning. Much of the nutrient solution added to the water has also been absorbed by the plant, and too much residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. The change in water quality is directly related to the temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growth periods for flowers, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4-6 days; in winter, change the water once about every 15-20 days. Each time you change the water, wash away the mucus on the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The height of the added water should be level with the root collar; too deep easily causes oxygen deficiency and root rot, while too shallow easily causes the roots to lack water and affects growth.

6. Adding hydroponic nutrient solution. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, about half a month after hydroponics begins, new roots will appear. Along with the growth of the flowers and plants, nutrient solution must be continuously added in combination with water changes. You can buy different types of flower nutrient solutions on the market as needed. It must be noted that: 1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies with different flower species, so the instructions should be read carefully. 2) Each type of special nutrient solution must be used only for its intended purpose, to avoid mismatching. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to clivia, it will cause clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period; directly changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also gives good results, such as for pothos and dieffenbachia.

Pest and Disease Control Techniques for Hydroponic Flowers

Because of the special nature of the environment in which static hydroponic flowers are placed, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides for insect control, nor to use large doses of fungicides for sterilization. Although these chemicals can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible plants that are robust, growing luxuriantly, and free of pests and diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be removed by hand or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not many; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular round wet stain-like lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once discovered, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot, stuffy summer weather, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shade, nutrient solution concentration that is too high, or an inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry up and the lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot likely, and this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots be cared for? Due to improper management, or root oxygen deficiency and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower part to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots, the plant renewal method can be used: cut off the still healthy upper branch 3 cm below the stem node and insert it in clear water. After a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the branch with the detached lower part, as long as it does not rot, new buds can also sprout at the stem node, and at that point nutrient solution cultivation can be used instead. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, and arrowhead vine, among others, can all use this method.

Complete Handbook of Household Hydroponic Flowers

Four Methods to Obtain Hydroponic Plants

1. Take flowers grown in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, out of their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and convert them to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings, insert them directly into still water, and after they root, grow them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) during growth, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plants and pineapple plants. These small plantlets can be picked off and directly grown hydroponically.

4. For flowers that produce many tiller buds, such as clivia and bromeliads, the method of peeling off rooted tiller buds can be used for hydroponics.

How to Prepare Hydroponic Nutrient Solution

Household static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must meet three basic conditions:

1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Choose a leak-proof cultivation container with no bottom hole that matches the size and style of the hydroponic flower.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with balanced ion absorption (appropriate ratio) and complete mineral nutrients essential for flower plant growth. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macroelements: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.

(2) Trace elements: disodium edetate 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Purified water: 1 liter (1000 mL).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is <0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a vessel and add hydroponic nutrient solution to grow them, and it becomes a static hydroponic flower with a distinctive charm.

When preparing the nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water. Of course, ordinary drinking tap water can also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. Both have undergone strict treatment, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that purified water has fewer impurities and pathogens and basically does not contain the nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water, as the components in the water source change, contains nutrient elements in unstable forms. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with purified water has a stable and consistent composition, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has an unstable composition.

Liquid chlorine is used when disinfecting tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let out the tap water and store it in a relatively wide-mouthed bucket for several days, stirring it a few times with a wooden stick to remove the chlorine. If water is urgently needed for changing the water, you can add 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as baking soda) to 10 kg of tap water and stir evenly, which can also achieve a chlorine-removal effect.

Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance of alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can help the flowers absorb trace elements, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, grow normally, and keep the leaves green.

How to Carry Out Foliar Fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under conditions of root oxygen deficiency, which can cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. To improve flower quality, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves. A fine-nozzle sprayer should be used, and as far as possible the fertilizer liquid should not be allowed to run off. The underside of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growth period, and it can make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as calla lily, four-season begonia, bamboo begonia, and calla lily, during the bud stage a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week until the flowers open.

Temperature Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one way of cultivating flowers; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests, or from tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded ravine areas, and belong to cold-intolerant flower plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with scorched leaf edges, yellowing old leaves, and wilting and shedding. Under static hydroponic conditions, the same phenomenon can also occur. Some flowers are more cold-tolerant, such as English ivy, periwinkle, and candle plant, and grow normally at temperatures of 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, the leaves of some flowers lose their luster, growth becomes sluggish, and the leaf edges show scorched brown spots, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperatures, such as bamboo begonia, four-season begonia, and coleus. At high temperatures above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics; of course, this is also related to the fact that the dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as the temperature rises. Keeping the temperature at 15°C to 28°C is suitable for various static hydroponic flowers. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each type of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of these flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally, placing them indoors, in the living room, or in the office, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lighting, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaves in a weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but not exposed to direct strong light can such flowers maintain their leaf color and luster.

Plant growth has phototropism, so the orientation of the flowers should be rotated at regular intervals. This work can be completed together with cleaning the vessel and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the roots, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, which will prevent the flower from growing toward one side and keep the top shoot upright and growing upward.

Humid Environment and Good Ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray water on the leaves of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors to do this, and after spraying, move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-nozzle spray head so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run down. For the leaves of flowers that are relatively firm and have a waxy film, such as monstera and clivia, you can wipe the leaf surface with a wet towel, which can both increase the humidity of the leaf surface and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, you can place a shallow dish or basin of clear water beside the flowers; the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers are placed indoors. If doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, it is unfavorable to their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if the doors and windows are not opened and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor have fresh air, and the dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, producing yellowing and shedding leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened at regular intervals to create air convection, allowing fresh air from outside to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can, of course, achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms likewise lack fresh air, reducing the dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out in a timely manner, which is beneficial to both the growth of hydroponic flowers and human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display especially need to do this work well.

Pest and Disease Control for Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponics breaks away from infection by soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, so it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the surrounding environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing varying degrees of disease. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on the flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots and had their roots washed for conversion to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, and larvae. If these are not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the special nature of the environment in which static hydroponic flowers are placed, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides for insect control, nor to use large doses of fungicides for sterilization. Although these chemicals can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases in hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible plants that are robust, growing luxuriantly, and free of pests and diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be removed by hand or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not many; only a few leaves may have brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular round wet stain-like lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once discovered, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so as not to let it spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Hot, stuffy summer weather, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sun, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shade, nutrient solution concentration that is too high, or an inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry up and the lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, making root rot likely, and this is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots be cared for? Due to improper management, or root oxygen deficiency and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves turning yellow and falling off in large numbers, causing the lower part to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots, the plant renewal method can be used: cut off the still healthy upper branch 3 cm below the stem node and insert it in clear water. After a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As for the branch with the detached lower part, as long as it does not rot, new buds can also sprout at the stem node, and at that point nutrient solution cultivation can be used instead. Lucky bamboo, pothos, rainbow cordyline, and arrowhead vine, among others, can all use this method.

How Many Hydroponic Flowers Are Suitable for Display

Growing hydroponic flowers indoors can help regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air, so displaying a few is beneficial. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are displayed, it will cause flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night. So how many flowers is suitable to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered suitable to grow one or two kinds of flowers per 10 sq m of room area. By this standard, for a room of 50 sq m to 60 sq m, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of various sizes can satisfy ornamentation without causing flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night.

How to Choose Hydroponic Flower Materials in Winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their clean, beautiful, and easy-to-care-for characteristics. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "musts":

First, you must choose flower types suitable for hydroponics. If you buy types unsuitable for hydroponics and grow them in water, they will gradually die before long because the roots rot. Aquatic plants, wetland plants, and a group of relatively drought-intolerant terrestrial plants are all relatively suitable for hydroponics, such as umbrella papyrus, arrowhead vine, pothos, Philodendron, Tradescantia, and lucky bamboo.

Second, you must choose flower types with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need relatively high temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to overwinter safely in an ordinary home, being prone to cold damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with a little protection include monstera, purple-heart oyster plant, aloe, spider plant, umbrella papyrus, miniature coconut palm, and broadleaf lady palm.

Third, you must choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-grown flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials may look like they are growing normally, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so when purchasing, you must distinguish carefully. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or the base of the stem.

Fourth, you must choose robust plants free of pests and diseases. Plants with upright and spirited branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are conducive to displaying the ornamental effect that the flowers should have.

Advantages of Hydroponics

1. Simple daily management

The daily management of "Hydroponic Flower King" hydroponic flowers is very simple. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the peak growth period in spring and summer and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, they do not need extra care. Usually, you only need to spray water on the leaves in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaves, just wipe them with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering daily, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and fashionable

Because hydroponic flowers have completely broken away from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not, like soil-grown flowers, pollute our living environment with pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are free from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials to grow them. Not only can we appreciate the flowers and leaves, but we can also appreciate the usually unseen process of root growth and their varied beauty, which is very neat and fashionable.

3. Many applicable varieties, and the technology is easy to master and operate

Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to be cultivated through planting baskets to produce water roots, nor does it need early computer or electric field mutation induction. It only needs very simple technical treatment, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers. This greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives the product more profit margin, and increases the product's competitiveness in the market. At the same time, because production costs are relatively low, more people can enjoy the lifestyle fashion brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because planting baskets are not used, hydroponic flowers become more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the concentration and pH value of the nutrient solution, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. In this way, some light-loving plants are relatively difficult to grow hydroponically indoors at home, but common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically, and the number of experimental varieties has currently reached nearly four hundred. If your home has sunlight or an artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be grown hydroponically, only with different degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and eco-friendly, can grow flowers and fish together

"Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to the flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term raising, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants with very good results. Practice has proven that it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, it is not easy for mosquitoes and insects to breed in the nutrient solution. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into the soil of your potted flowers at home, there will be an even more unexpected surprise. Facts have proven that "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and eco-friendly nutrient solution, and its effect is very obvious.

Selection of Hydroponic Flower Types

The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions of water, oxygen, nutrients, light, temperature, and so on. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as the light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in a timely manner, the flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to differences in flowers' ecological habits and organizational structure, different flowers also have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have air-conducting tissue in their bodies; the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be sent through the air-conducting tissue to the root system for respiration. Some flowers have aerial roots at the stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen needed by the plant from the air. Some flowers, although lacking both air-conducting tissue and aerial roots for absorbing oxygen, are nevertheless very well adapted to hydroponic conditions. But if the oxygen content in the water cannot meet the needs of some flowers for normal growth and development, then such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, you must choose flower types that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and never cultivate blindly, lest hydroponics fail.

Flower Types Adapted to Hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, and quickly form a plant shape with a certain ornamental value; after plants grown in soil are washed with water, most of their existing roots can adapt to a hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers adapted to hydroponics include pothos, Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), dieffenbachia, silver king (Aglaonema), golden queen (Aglaonema), clustered Philodendron, mini monstera, monstera, calla lily, green emerald (Philodendron), Philodendron, fiddle-leaf Philodendron, green emperor Philodendron, arrowhead vine, taro (Alocasia), anthurium, and emerald gem, among others.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as purple-heart oyster plant, purple-backed Tradescantia, bamboo-leaf Commelina, and Tradescantia, all of which can root and grow rapidly when grown from water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as aloe, triangular aloe, Haworthia, spider plant, Cordyline, dragon blood tree, Madagascar dragon tree, snake plant, agave, golden-edged lucky bamboo, sea onion, silver-edged evergreen, and silver-edged mondo grass, among others.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively well suited to hydroponic conditions, such as: Aeonium, Sedum, Silver Wave, Gem Flower, Kalanchoe, etc.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics include Aucuba, Umbrella Plant, Coleus, Purple Velvet Plant, Blue Senecio, Begonia, Ox Ear Begonia, Green Emerald, Clivia, Paphiopedilum, Croton, Dusty Miller, Senecio, Leaf Cactus, Triangle Bamboo, Bird's Nest Fern, Cryptanthus, Chloranthus, Star Jasmine, Dragon Bone, Crown of Thorns, Variegated Periwinkle, Red-backed Excoecaria, Four Seas Wave, English Ivy, Ivy, Rhapis, Chamaedorea, etc.

When selecting hydroponic flower species, in addition to considering their ability to adapt to hydroponic conditions, the following factors should also be noted:

Although some flowers are very well suited to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high overwintering temperature requirements. For example, some species of the Dieffenbachia genus and Croton require overwintering temperatures above 15°C; Pothos, Syngonium, Golden Pothos, and Dracaena species also require overwintering temperatures above 10°C. For rooms heated in winter this is certainly no problem, but for most households, getting these flowers safely through the cold winter is still very difficult. Although some flowers will not die entirely after overwintering, due to low-temperature damage, the leaves will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, and leaf tips or margins will scorch, or new scorch spots will appear on the leaves, even causing massive leaf drop or partial branch and leaf death, thereby losing their ornamental value. Therefore, when there are no stable conditions, attention must be paid to selecting flower species with strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary households include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

Such as Rohdea, Star Jasmine, Rhapis, Agave, Aucuba, Gem Flower, Sea Onion, Variegated Liriope, etc., can withstand low temperatures around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

Such as Monstera, Purple Leaf Spiderwort, Bamboo, Aloe, Spider Plant, Silver Wave, Umbrella Plant, Purple Velvet Plant, Dusty Miller, Chloranthus, Crown of Thorns, Variegated Periwinkle, Ivy, Chamaedorea, etc., can safely overwinter with slight protection.

Of course, some flowers such as Red Emerald Philodendron, Green Emerald Philodendron, Syngonium, Pothos, Snake Plant, Croton, etc., although it is relatively difficult for them to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow quickly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation when spring is warm.

Shade tolerance

Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower species that prefer semi-shade or tolerate semi-shade. At the same time, even shade-preferring or semi-shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, Croton, Purple Leaf Spiderwort, and Tradescantia need sufficient scattered light, but Peace Lily, Giant Taro, Guangdong Evergreen, and Silver King have extremely strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different lighting conditions within rooms vary, appropriate flower species should be selected according to the light conditions of the placement location, to ensure normal growth and maintain good ornamental quality. When light is insufficient, the branches and leaves of the plant will grow leggy, stems will become thin, internodes will be longer, leaves will become smaller, deformed, lose green color and proper luster, colored stripes on leaves will fade, and even massive leaf drop may occur, thereby seriously affecting the ornamental quality of the flowers.

Hydroponic Spider Plant Technique

Spider Plant, with fresh green leaf color and orchid-like leaf shape, fresh and elegant, is a common household foliage flower that people love. In addition, it has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layer or double-layer. A single-layer bottle is a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle used to plant Spider Plant. For the double-layer bottle, use a plastic sieve as the upper layer, and the lower bottle is a bottomless bottle vessel. Plant the Spider Plant in the upper plastic sieve, letting the Spider Plant roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Remove potted or ground-planted Spider Plant from the pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves, pest-damaged leaves), keep healthy leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the prepared Spider Plant into the bottle, tie the bottle mouth tightly with sponge and insert a plastic straw, which is used for water delivery. Let the Spider Plant stand upright, put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the bottle, and let the Spider Plant roots soak in the water to grow. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the Spider Plant on the plastic sieve, with the roots passing through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle, put ceramic material or gravel (large particles) in the sieve, let the Spider Plant stand upright, and put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the lower bottle. After potting is complete, place the Spider Plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For single-layer container bottle cultivation, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, inputting water through the straw until full. For the double-layer bottle, change the water once a week. When changing water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container bottle clean, fill with clean water and flower nutrient solution, and then place the plastic sieve on the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: Through adding water and changing water, flower nutrient solution is added at the same time to the roots. For foliar feeding, spray the branches and leaves once every 3 days with diluted flower nutrient solution.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with all-purpose powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: Spider Plant blooms half a year after potting. When blooming, do not spray water on the flowers, to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers fade, cut the flowers from the branch tips to promote reblooming.

The Outstanding Performer in Static Hydroponics

Araceae plants have 105 genera and more than 2500 species, originating in tropical Asia, arising in waters or swamps of forest areas. Through long historical evolution, the vast majority have now developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, etc. Although the plants of the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves wetland species, some have aerial roots, some easily produce adventitious roots, and some easily develop aerenchyma under stress environments.
In static hydroponics of terrestrial plants, root respiration is in a severe state of oxygen deficiency. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting plant species, that is, those that have close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically shown as:
1. Araceae plants evolved and developed centered on aquatic genetic genes. The new Engler system holds that the most primitive in Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or wetland evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), and first arose in water environments. Pistia is almost distributed across freshwater waters of all major continents of the Old and New Worlds, and is the most evolved monotypic genus in Araceae. It is a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easy to migrate and spread, with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus gramineus, Water Arum, and Taro.
The evolved Pistia, as an aquatic plant, is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical “negation of the negation,” a repetition on a higher foundation. Although the vast majority of species in Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, forming in appearance a “negation” of the aquatic ancestor. And finally transforming into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia, this return is another “negation,” which is the dialectical law of “negation of the negation.” It shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are the outstanding performers in static hydroponics.
2. Araceae belongs to Arales, which has only two families. The other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, and Lemnaceae are floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that Araceae and aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor and have extremely close kinship with each other.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, following an approximately spiral curve.
3. The relationship of Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system holds that Arales evolved from Liliales, and a few aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel development relationship with the marsh-dwelling Najadales. The Takhtajan system holds that Arales shares a common ancestor (primitive lily types) with Arecales and Pandanales, and can be traced further back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system holds that Arales has close kinship with Pandanales and Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems it can be inferred that Arales has kinship correlation with Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, share a common ancestor with aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship correlation with Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants the outstanding performers in static hydroponics.

Judging and Handling Root Rot in Hydroponics

During hydroponics, due to management and other reasons, plants often suffer root rot. For example, excessively low temperature, overly concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot, and root rot will worsen water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted. Second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also be rotten and deteriorated. Third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system turns yellow and changes color, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root zone, and the epidermis will easily tear off, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, cut it off promptly. Generally, root rot gradually spreads upward from the root tip. After pruning, continue until normal roots are reached. After changing the water, observe carefully. If root rot continues to appear, handle it promptly.

Simple Hydroponic Facilities -- Bottles, Jars and Cultivation Management

Using waste containers, such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene hard foam boxes (cases), etc., with slight adjustment, they can become hydroponic carriers of different sizes and shapes. This not only suits local conditions and makes full use of materials, but also greens the surrounding environment, with quite a charm of returning to nature.

1. Bottles and jars

1. Such as metal beverage cans, glass or plastic wide-mouth bottles, paper foil-lined square beverage boxes, etc. These were originally used to hold liquids. As long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be used as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cup: According to the size of the selected container opening, choose a plastic cold drink cup that fits just about 1/3 into the opening, as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut out a “well”-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup, so that the root system can extend through the cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant's anchoring material will not leak out. The opening also serves a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8×12 cm, used for clothing lining. Gently rinse the soil off the plant seedlings to be hydroponically grown or purchased potted flowers with soil, without damaging the root system. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (cut scraps left from making shoulder pads for tops or sofa and chair cushions), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as insulation material, some yellow, some yellow with white) to thicken it, so that it can fit exactly into the plastic planting cup to anchor the plant. If none of the above items are available, floral foam can also be appropriately cut and used as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapping the root system together with the exposed roots into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution surface should maintain a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to the success or failure of hydroponics. With the capillary absorption of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the root system with nutrients. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance between the liquid surface and the bottom of the planting cup can be somewhat larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material, to prevent direct sunlight from causing algae growth and competing with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent a large rise in liquid temperature caused by direct sun exposure, it is best to have shading measures, or place it where direct sunlight cannot reach.

2. Boxes and cases

1. Box body: Usually white hard polystyrene foam boxes used for packaging and shock protection, or corrugated cardboard boxes, wooden boxes, etc. with a certain strength, can all be used. Generally about 35×25×15 cm to 60×40×16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, they can be leveled with wooden boards or foam boards. Line the box with black agricultural film to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is not light-transmitting, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.

2. Upper cover: The upper cover also functions as the planting board. Find a polystyrene foam board the same area as the box, about 2.5 cm thick, as the upper cover and planting board. Cut a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter in the board. As with bottles and jars, it is enough if the selected plastic cold drink cups can be placed in them while about 1/2 of the cup height is exposed. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6-16 holes. In addition, on the side of the upper cover, near the inner side of the box body, cut a small hole 2 cm in diameter, for peeking at the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution in normal times.

3. Planting cup: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a polystyrene foam board 2.5-3 cm smaller on all four sides than the inner net area of the box, and 2.5-3 cm thick, as the floating board. Regularly cut some small holes 1-2 cm in diameter on it to increase the air content of the floating board and allow the root system to extend into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm dry thickness), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25-50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board, for capillary absorption of nutrient solution. If these things truly cannot be obtained, medical sterilized absorbent gauze can also be used as a substitute. The area of the capillary-absorbing cotton layer is about 6 cm larger on all four sides than the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely from all four sides of the floating board (like an apron), soaking into the nutrient solution to absorb it, thereby ensuring that a moist layer with nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant root system can extend freely on the floating board, coming into more direct contact with air. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four edges of the floating board, or through the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can make up for the unfavorable environment of ordinary static hydroponics, which cannot circulate nutrient solution and oxygenate.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. At the time of just planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root rolls extending from the planting cups, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward. The highest liquid level must leave a certain space in the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3-5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogen infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, until fully renewed.

Requirements of Hydroponic Flowers for a Humid Environment and Good Ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray the flower leaves (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle, so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface and do not run down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera and Clivia, you can wipe the leaf surface with a wet towel, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, you can place a shallow dish or basin of clean water beside the flowers; the evaporated water can similarly increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers placed indoors, if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is stale, are unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, with no doors or windows opened indoors, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need, nor get fresh air, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and growth becomes worse and worse, resulting in yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, allowing fresh outside air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry leaf tips on flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be done in a timely manner, which is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers displayed especially need this work done well.

Light Requirements of Hydroponic Flowers

Static hydroponics mostly selects relatively shade-tolerant and shade-preferring foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamp illumination, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as Coleus and Croton, will lose the color of the leaves in a relatively weak light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light and without direct strong light can such flowers maintain bright leaf color.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of placed flowers should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessels and changing the nutrient solution, completing it at the same time. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

How Hydroponic Flowers Safely Overwinter

How Hydroponic Flowers Overwinter

Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8°C, and tissues will undergo necrosis below 0°C. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5°C. If there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, this can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; and in the north, because most indoor spaces have heating, safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers can also be met.

Why Hydroponic Flowers Need Water Changes

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more. Therefore, after a period of growth, hydroponic flowers need to be given new nutrient solution. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilization and also need soil replacement once a year for this reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water change interval should be shorter in the vigorous growing spring and summer, and longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

Hydroponic Method for Cyclamen

Growing Cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method frees Cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can give blooming Cyclamen plants multiple cultivation and application forms. As soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, hydroponic cultivation of Cyclamen is not difficult. First, select a satisfactory Cyclamen potted flower, and prepare the container to be used for hydroponically growing Cyclamen. With the preparation work complete, you can begin making a hydroponic Cyclamen. For hydroponic Cyclamen, the purchased Cyclamen potted flower should be turned out of the pot together with the substrate (flower soil), placed under a faucet and rinsed clean with a relatively gentle water flow. You can also place the plant together with the substrate in a basin of water, rinse the substrate off in the water, and then wash it clean with tap water. Note that throughout the process of removing the substrate, movements must be gentle, avoiding damage to the Cyclamen root system as much as possible. The rinsed-clean Cyclamen plant can then be placed in the previously prepared hydroponic container, water added, and a beautiful hydroponic Cyclamen is made.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer of any kind needs to be added to the water for cultivating Cyclamen. The nutrients in the Cyclamen tuber can allow the Cyclamen plant to maintain 4-6 weeks of normal growth and flowering. At the same time, the water surface height should be kept below the tuber. Generally, according to the evaporation of water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water surface height.

In fact, in hydroponic Cyclamen, the Cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make hydroponic Cyclamen distinctive in features and outstanding in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the combination method of Cyclamen plants. This all depends on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Exposed-Root Hydroponic Method for Hoya

Hoya has traditionally been soil-cultivated. Now, through exposed-root hydroponic trials, it has the following characteristics: ① labor-saving; ② hygienic; ③ few pests and diseases; ④ simple management; ⑤ long flowering period; ⑥ roots, leaves, and flowers can all be enjoyed.

The exposed-root hydroponic method is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up soil-planted Hoya, wash clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and pest-damaged leaves, and soak in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without bottom hole), put a few pieces of attractive river stones at the bottom, move the prepared Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: First, spray the leaves with clean water once a day; after one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. Second, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water. Third, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the Hoya head, each time injecting half a milliliter, and thereafter once a month, to promote growth, flowering, and prolong the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and injection, and it can bloom again.

There Is a Big Difference Between Flower Water Culture and Hydroponics

In recent years, some water-cultured and hydroponic flowers have been favored by people because they are fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and easy to combine. On the surface, water culture and hydroponics have the same cultivation form, namely liquid maintenance, so many people confuse the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water culture generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients. Their growth and flowering mainly rely on their own stored nutrients. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water and fix it, with no need to supply nutrients. Flowers suitable for water culture mainly include Narcissus, Tulip, Hyacinth, Lucky Bamboo, etc. To make water-cultured flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom beautifully, the key is to select fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrients needed for their growth process; second is to change the water frequently, persisting in changing water once every 2-3 days (Lucky Bamboo once every 7-10 days), maintaining sufficient oxygen content in the water and improving root activity; third is to maintain sufficient sunlight to make them grow robustly.

Hydroponic flowers, by contrast, fix the plant roots on the cover board or floating board of a flower pot, soaking the root system in water, and the water must be provided with reasonable inorganic nutrients, so hydroponic flowers are also called nutrient solution culture. Flowers suitable for hydroponics have plant habits and internal structures suited to normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include Clivia, Spider Plant, Christmas Cactus, Dracaena, Rohdea, Clustered Taro, Monstera, Gem Flower, Tradescantia, Kalanchoe, etc.

Northeastern University in China, using bioengineering mutation technology, after 8 years of effort, has developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; including both cactus and succulent plants, and flowering ornamental flowers such as Clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as Bromeliads, Anthurium, and Amaryllis, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. Some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as Ludisia, have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

In truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the traits of the root system have already changed, the root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-cultured plants, which are distributed in a network. After aquatic mutation, the plant's aquatic root genes are expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches are more tender than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare the nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat chlorides and sulfides in the water. For hydroponic flowers, add or change the nutrient solution once a week, and note that the pH value should be controlled between 5.5-6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

Brief Introduction to Flower Hydroponic Techniques

Flower hydroponics is a common type of soilless cultivation. There are many methods; several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: characterized by plant roots being fully or partially immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: Nutrient film technique was developed from the plastic bag technique. A suitable amount of nutrient solution placed in a plastic bag can cultivate plants. On this basis, further improvement was made: the plastic bag was changed to plastic film, laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white outside and black inside, wrapping the plant to form an internal dark space.

The advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, with low cost; plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.

Aeroponics technique: The nutrient solution is atomized and sprayed around the plant root system. The mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the root system. The roots are continuously or intermittently in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used in cutting propagation.

Glass bottle hydroponic technique: For the aqueous solution, a glass canning jar can be used. Wrap black plastic film around the jar, or coat it fully with black paint, or paste a layer of black paper, so that the inside of the jar is not light-transmitting. Shading is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, wrap a layer of white paper outside the black jar to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, cut a hole in the middle, clamp the plant, cover the bottle cap, and the top of the cap should also be black. Inject nutrient solution into the bottle, not too full; leave a gap for the plant to breathe oxygen. If it is water insertion to promote rooting, there is no need to use nutrient solution; just inject water, and change to nutrient solution after roots grow. Specific operation process:

Changing solution: For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For adult flowers, change once a week during the peak growth season in summer, and once every 1 to 2 weeks in the non-growing season.

Aeration: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening, letting the root system be fully exposed to air. After a period of adaptation, it can go more than 1 month continuously without aeration.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should often be added to the bottle to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: Fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions permit, it can be prepared by yourself. The formulas are as follows:

Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)

Potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Formula 2: (pH value 6-6.5)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Preparation method of trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, cupric chloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 mL water, then make up to 1000 mL.

Multiple Hydroponic Methods for Flowers

① Water insertion method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed. Cut part of the stem or branch from a selected mother flower plant, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it will root, sprout, and grow into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below the node, and the cut surface should be flat, with no longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots and insert them into water. Pothos, Lucky Bamboo, etc. are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

② Root washing method: Select flowers with ornamental value, robust growth, and already formed through soil cultivation (or other media cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system, and then convert to hydroponics. When washing roots, it is best to use running water. Plant the washed flowers in a prepared vessel, and inject tap water to cover 2/3-1/2 of the root system. Initially change the clean water once a day, and at the same time wash the roots and vessel. After a week, reduce the frequency of water changes. Once the cultivated flowers grow new roots in water, it indicates they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and water can be changed once every 7-10 days, or even longer.

③ Tiller bud stripping method: Suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as Clivia and Bromeliads. The method is simple and the survival rate is high. Select a relatively large tiller bud, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, and strip the tiller bud from the mother plant by hand or with a sharp blade (protecting the roots of the tiller bud), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate hydroponically.

④ Runner plantlet picking method: Some flowers produce runners during growth, and the runners bear one to many small plantlets. Most of the small plantlets have a small amount of fully developed roots, such as Spider Plant and Bird's Nest Fern. Using this characteristic of the flowers, picking formed small plantlets for hydroponics is very simple and convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera, Clivia, Pothos, Tillandsia, Guangdong Evergreen, Purple-backed Rohdea, Lucky Bamboo, Spider Plant, and bulb flowers such as Tulip, Lily, Hyacinth, Amaryllis, and Gladiolus, etc.

Guide to Overcoming Difficulties in Summer Care of Hydroponic Flowers

1. Where are the difficulties in getting hydroponic flowers through summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants cultivated with non-solid media (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution added). At present, household hydroponic flowers are mostly static water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/L. The flowers barely sustain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism becomes vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, forming many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers. This may cause root rot, wilting of branches and leaves, and even death of the entire flower. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing extreme summer heat and high temperatures, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers safely pass the summer.

Water Culture of Silver Edge Grass

2. How can the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution be increased?

Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, summarized as chemical methods and physical methods. The following are several effective methods that are easy to operate.

1. Increase the frequency of changing the nutrient solution

Changing the nutrient solution is the simplest way to increase dissolved oxygen. According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, and can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.

For flowers that have already grown aquatic roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, and at most no more than 7 days. When changing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorder in the flower root system.

When changing the solution, patiently rinse the root system with clean water, remove withered roots and rotten roots, and shorten aged roots to promote new roots.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or mosquito egg masses or mosquito larvae breed in it, new nutrient solution should be changed immediately.

2. Vibration oxygenation

For hydroponic flowers in relatively small vessels, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged, and the nutrient solution is transparent, vibration can be used to oxygenate. The operation method is to fix the flower with one hand, hold the vessel with the other hand, and gently shake more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution or poor root development, the vibration oxygenation method is not suitable; the nutrient solution must be completely changed.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/L, while in still water it is only 1 mg/L. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is the flower cultivation vessel, with a miniature circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline. During operation, the nutrient solution circulates and flows in the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an “oxygen bar,” and their growth is obviously better than static hydroponics.

The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is generally cleaned and has its solution changed once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerating the container

If you keep hydroponic flowers and also have a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare air outlet tube of the fish tank air pump, connect a rubber hose, and put an air stone into the container of the static hydroponic flowers to aerate it (the airflow should not be too strong, so as not to splash the nutrient solution out). Using the flow of air to increase oxygen works quite well too.

III. What position is suitable for placing hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: The flowers chosen for hydroponics are mostly shade-tolerant foliage plants and plants grown for both flowers and foliage. Such as arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), white-variegated Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema), Spathiphyllum (Spathiphyllum), flamingo flower (Anthurium), bromeliads, etc. These flowers like warmth and humidity, tolerate slight shade, and dislike high temperatures and dry heat. "Hydroponics" only changes the form of cultivation; it cannot change their growth habits or the environmental factors they need. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in a bright, slightly humid, cooler environment with good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not keep them too shaded either, lest photosynthesis be blocked, growth weaken, stem nodes elongate, and leaves become thinner. This causes the leaves of flowers with colored patches and patterns to lose their luster.

IV. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air outlet of the air conditioner; too fast an airflow will damage the branches and leaves, causing curled leaves in mild cases and scorched, withered edges in severe cases. Also consider that flowers require a higher temperature during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night, and the ambient temperature is higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner is on, this is unfavorable for the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is on, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaf surfaces to increase ambient humidity. Place the flowers farther away from the air outlet of the air conditioner. If the day-night temperature difference is not great, there is no problem.

V. What should be done if hydroponic flowers develop root rot?

Answer: As the temperature continues to rise, the water temperature also rises, microbial growth accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution so that the dissolved concentration becomes too high can also cause the roots of hydroponic flowers to rot, especially in the lily family plants such as Cordyline fruticosa, Dracaena (fine-leaved dragon tree, Dracaena marginata), and Dracaena concinna (five-colored dragon tree).

The following methods can restore the growth of flowers with root rot:

① Remove all the rotten roots completely; if the stem has also been infected, use a sharp knife to cut off the infected part.

② Soak the trimmed flowers in a 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10 to 20 minutes to sterilize them.

③ Take out the soaked flowers and rinse them under running water.

④ Place the cleaned flowers back into the original container and grow them in clean water (the container should be washed clean).

⑤ Change the water once every 1 to 2 days, using only clean water without adding nutrient solution. If the water is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10 to 15 days of care, new roots can sprout.

⑥ Newly sprouted roots should still be grown in clean water; wait until the temperature stabilizes at 18 to 25°C, then cultivate with nutrient solution.

VI. What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growing in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon during the cultivation of hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, high temperatures, good container transparency, a bright environment, or leaving the nutrient solution unchanged for too long can all trigger massive algae growth. Algae compete with the flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, causing the quality of the nutrient solution to decline. Algae attached to the flower roots hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, promptly pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly wash the container, brush off the algae attached to the roots, and replace with new nutrient solution.

At present, scientists in China are researching a kind of "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae, known as a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, putting a small amount of "algae-eating insects" into the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can prevent algae from growing.

Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to cover the container of hydroponic flowers and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chances of algae growth.

VII. What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special form of cultivation, a cultivation method belonging to soilless culture. The roots of the flowers are anchored in water (or a special plant nutrient solution), so it is also called nutrient solution culture.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with plant nutrient solution matched to them. However, different flowers need different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If you are cultivating five or six bottles or even a dozen bottles of hydroponic flowers of various varieties at the same time, it is unrealistic to buy a bottle of matching plant nutrient solution for each kind of flower. For the sake of simplicity, you can choose to use a general-purpose plant nutrient solution.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macroelements and microelements), with a balanced ratio of various elements. The inorganic salts are in ionic form, the scope of application is wide, and it is suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages. It is non-toxic, harmless, and its pH value and ion concentration are favorable for nutrient absorption.

There are many kinds of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, with varying quality. It is best to go to a specialty hydroponic flower shop and choose products from manufacturers with a good reputation.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution cultivation or only clean water cultivation in summer. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and grow vigorously, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with fine roots that are in a semi-dormant or dormant state at temperatures around 30°C, use only clean water cultivation. For example, Spathiphyllum, pothos (Epipremnum aureum), mini monstera (Monstera), red ruby (Philodendron), and Philodendron, using nutrient solution cultivation is suitable for maintaining growth vigor and enhancing ornamental value. For flowers such as coleus (Coleus), bamboo begonia (Begonia maculata), and bromeliads, a bottle of clean water is enough for them to pass the summer safely.

When mixing nutrient solution, strictly follow the ratio indicated in the instructions, and do not arbitrarily increase the concentration. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers grown in hydroponics has changed, becoming looser and with larger cells than in soil cultivation. The cell walls become thinner, and they directly absorb water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution; too high a concentration is harmful to the flowers. As long as the concentration of macroelements is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial to the growth of the flowers.

In summer, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution once every 5 days.

VIII. Can soil-grown flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: The best seasons to convert soil-grown flowers to hydroponic flowers are spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15 to 25°C, suitable for flower growth, and the flowers easily adapt to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: ① Choose varieties that are more closely related to wetland plants. ② Flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at temperatures around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Araceae plants such as Syngonium podophyllum, mini Monstera, Philodendron 'Red Emerald', Philodendron 'Green Giant', pothos, and some Bromeliaceae flowers have a relatively high survival rate when converted from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, their roots rarely rot, and after 15 to 20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from the old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.

When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots must be cleaned off. Rinse repeatedly, protecting the roots from damage or minimizing it as much as possible. Use a container with a larger capacity for cultivation, change the water once a day, and after five days, change the water once every 2 to 3 days. When the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate with a low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic method for lucky bamboo

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as Wan Shou Zhu, native to Brazil and West Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. The plant shape is slender and upright, without branching. Leaves are long lanceolate, deep green, with sheath-like leaf stalks. Common ones include golden-edged lucky bamboo, whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes. Silver-edged lucky bamboo, also known as silver-striped bamboo dracaena, is a small plant with silver-white longitudinal stripes along the leaf edges.

Habits

Likes high temperatures and high humidity; the overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, it will cause the leaf tips to scorch. During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaf surfaces frequently.

2: It is suitable for sufficient scattered light. When light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic method for Anthurium

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as flamingo flower and lampstand flower

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short, and leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. The flower stalk grows from the leaf axil. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, and the spadix is yellow and extends straight.

Habits

Likes high temperatures, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment; avoid direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and it must be kept above 10°C for overwintering.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant; in winter it needs heating to keep warm.

2: Likes relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

How to obtain hydroponic materials

Use the potted root-washing method

Hydroponic method for azalea

The characteristic of soilless culture is that it uses artificially made media to replace soil. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used solid media for soilless culture of azaleas and achieved very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea (Rhododendron indicum). Under soilless culture, the crown structure was compact, the number of flowers was large; the flower diameter was large, and there were few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, and is a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.

1. Preparation of the medium

Azalea roots are very fine and require a loose medium to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing the medium, sterilize it with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix it evenly into the medium, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse it several times with clean water. After drying, mix it evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, then cover with plastic film for one month, after which it can be used for potting.

2. Preparation of the nutrient solution

Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply thin fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macroelements: add 2 g of agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g of magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: add 20 g of disodium edetate, 15 g of ferrous sulfate, 4 g of manganese sulfate, 6 g of boric acid, 0.2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.1 g of copper sulfate, and 0.2 g of ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 ml of trace element mother solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the full-strength element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: add 1 g of urea, 1 g of monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g of boric acid, and 0.1 g of V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the medium has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally a bit more than in soil culture, just enough to keep the medium moist. At this time, it is exactly the period of bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, when fertilizer demand is relatively high, so water with full-strength nutrient solution about once every 10 days. From March until the flower buds open, spray foliar fertilizer about once every 15 days. After flowering, water demand is high; besides watering every day, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, fertilizer demand is also high, so it can be changed to watering with nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote strong new branches and facilitate flower bud differentiation. After the beginning of the dog days, pay attention to keeping the medium moist and spray water on the leaves; the amount of fertilizer applied can be reduced to watering with nutrient solution about once every 20 days. After the autumn cool arrives, gradually increase the amount of fertilizer, apply full-strength nutrient solution about once every half month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote robust growth of flower buds. After the beginning of winter, the physiological activity of azaleas is weak, so fertilizer should not be applied; just water appropriately according to the degree of dryness or moisture of the medium. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic method for broadleaf lady palm

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as Guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. Stems are cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, bearing brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm fiber. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, leathery, deep green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4~10 lobes. Dioecious.

Habits

Likes a warm, shady, humid, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20~30°C, and in winter it should be kept above 4°C. It can tolerate short periods of low temperatures around 0°C.

Propagation

Generally carried out by division combined with repotting. Select large, dense clumps. First lift the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, try to cut as few roots as possible, and keep the divided plants with a certain plant shape. Then repot them, water thoroughly, and place them in a semi-shaded, humid place. Spray water on the leaves frequently. After they resume growth, they can be transferred to normal care.

For sowing, after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately after collection, move them into a greenhouse in winter, and they will sprout in the spring of the following year.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak it is prone to yellow leaves; when ventilation is poor, parasitic pests breed.

2: During the growing period, water should be sprayed on the leaf surfaces frequently.

How to obtain hydroponic materials

Pot cultivation with root washing is suitable. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture, so after hydroponics it is not easy for the roots to rot, but new roots sprout relatively slowly, requiring as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic method for purple velvet plant

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Purple velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick, many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. The leaf margins have relatively coarse doubly serrate teeth. It is named for its stems and leaves densely covered with purple-red fine hairs like velvet. The purple velvet plant has bright, beautiful, and elegant colors, and is an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Purple velvet plant likes sufficient sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment. Direct sunlight will cause sunscald and leaf scorch, but when too shaded, the plant will fade and turn green. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C.

Propagation

Purple velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, select robust branches, cut 10 cm long shoot tips as cuttings, and after cutting place them in a shaded, humid place. They can root in 2~3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch the tips promptly to promote the sprouting of side branches.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water, and water roots can grow in just over 10 days. But at high temperatures in summer, the roots easily rot.

2: Purple velvet plant grows rapidly. When the branches grow to an appropriate height, pinch the tips promptly to promote the sprouting of new shoots.

Hydroponic method for parlour palm

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, with a short, small plant. The stem is slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring patterns. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, pinnately compound, with 20~40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and glossy.

Habits

Likes a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20~30°C. At 13°C it enters dormancy, and the minimum winter overwintering temperature is 3°C.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn withered and yellow, but when too shaded, the leaf color will also fade.

2: Parlour palm is most beautiful at a plant shape of 30~50 cm. When the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and empty, which reduces its ornamental value. When cultivating, small plants can be grown below.

Obtaining hydroponic materials

Use the potted root-washing method. After washing with water, new roots can grow in just a few days.

Hydroponic method for cactus ball

We know that cactus balls are favored by people for their unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but because cactus balls use traditional cultivation methods, they have problems such as being dirty and difficult to manage. More people kill their beloved plants because they cannot manage fertilizer and water well. Now the cultivation of cactus balls has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First, we must choose a cactus ball with a robust body. The key is to choose a plant whose lower root-stem part protrudes downward. Cactus balls cultivated by grafting with three-ribbed sword cacti are easier to hydroponically cultivate.

2: Treatment

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots under the ball body, requiring the cut to be flat. Then rinse off the soil attached to the root-stem part with clean water, and dry it in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or process a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and treated cactus ball at the bottle mouth with floral foam or foam, then add nutrient solution below, with the height of the nutrient solution just reaching the root-stem part. In production, we recommend making a glass water tank 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (transparent containers make it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem part). Prepare a children's foam puzzle board or a white construction foam board, and use a sharp knife to cut several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing golden barrel cactus, you can cut off the mouth part of a waste purified water bottle and use it upside down; note: cut off the bottle mouth so that the roots of the golden barrel cactus can be exposed through the cut bottle mouth, then place it in a flat-body container with nutrient solution). Insert the three-ribbed sword cacti into the triangular holes; at this time, the roots of all the three-ribbed sword cacti just contact the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponic treatment

Buy two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and put them into the container, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution, thereby speeding up the growth of water roots. (You can also buy from the market a small wall-mounted submersible pump specially for ecological fish tanks, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and turn on the power to achieve a flowing, oxygen-carrying circulation of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the planted cactus ball in an environment with relatively strong scattered light, keep the temperature above 20°C, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. Immediately replace the nutrient solution after water roots appear.

Note:

During the induction process of cactus balls, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the ball body, as this can easily cause the ball body to rot and die.

What should be noted when growing clivia hydroponically at home

Hydroponic clivia is a clean and convenient cultivation method. When cultivating at home, note the following:

① Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and it is best to choose a transparent one, so that you can view the leaves, flowers, and roots. Glass bottles can be used; non-toxic plastic bottles or ceramic containers can also be used. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the diameter should not be too large.

② The solution for cultivation. It can be nutrient solution or clean water, but when cultivating in clean water, attention must be paid to foliar fertilization to supply the nutrients needed for clivia growth.

③ Changing the solution. Hydroponic clivia needs regular solution changes. The number of solution changes depends on the weather. When the temperature is relatively low, it can be changed about once a month; when the temperature is relatively high, it can be changed once every 10 days. When changing the solution, be careful to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically grow amaryllis (Hippeastrum) hydroponically

In early winter, choose one or several large Hippeastrum (amaryllis) bulbs that have already flowered or not yet flowered, cut off all the roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal the white and green layers, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulbs out, wash away the mushy substance at the cut with clean water, let them dry in the shade, and place them in a container. The container can be a bowl, a pot, or a narcissus dish, etc. Place washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc. inside, then set the prepared amaryllis bulbs on top. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must have been left standing for several days). The water depth should be such that it covers the small stones and other filler material, or about 1 cm below the upper rim of the container. Finally, place it in a spot indoors with ample light. Keep the room temperature at around 10°C, and in about 7-10 days leaves will begin to grow and roots will develop. The water level in the pot must always be kept at the original line. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertilizer should be added promptly; every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% monopotassium phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with their roots into a flower pot for routine care. Bulbs treated by this hydroponic method bloom somewhat later than other conventionally potted amaryllis, just in time for the summer period when flowers are scarce.

Technical management of hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also known as soilless culture or nutrient solution culture, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solutions and supporting equipment instead of soil to grow crops. To fix the plants and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert solid substrates such as sand, gravel, peat, and perlite, hence the names sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since humans began farming, crops have been grown in soil, which is why the English word for agriculture is "agriculture," combining "agr" (soil) and "culture" (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used three different types of water - rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate - to grow mint. The mint grown in the garden soil leachate grew fastest, leading him to conclude that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to technical limitations at the time, Woodward did not conduct further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that the German scientists Sachs and Knop first conducted precise experiments in soilless culture, successfully growing plants with an artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts. They called this method hydroponics, and Sachs and Knop are thus recognized as the founders of soilless culture technology.

◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless culture techniques. Hydroponic flowers are further divided into hydroponic flowers with media and hydroponic flowers without media. Hydroponics with media refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; hydroponic flowers without media are further divided into direct hydroponics, floating hydroponics, planting basket hydroponics, misting hydroponics, nutrient film drip irrigation, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its pros and cons, but if judged purely by aesthetics, durability, and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most stylish, beautiful, and simple, so the hydroponic plants currently sold on the market are generally in the direct hydroponic form.

◆3. Why is the nutrient solution the key to the success of hydroponic flowers?
Answer: We all know that in a greenhouse environment, using inert substrates as media, soilless culture is already a very simple and mature technology, because computers control humidity, temperature, light intensity, and nutrient solution injection timing in real time, and dedicated technicians use pH meters and conductivity meters to test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of various elements in real time. However, in a home environment, these conditions are very difficult to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, then aesthetically there is no difference from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be soilless culture without media. Without media, plants are very prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants to avoid root rot, odor, and off-smells while growing normally under oxygen-deficient conditions. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution should not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and should be non-toxic. Furthermore, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires that the nutrient solution can lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that plants can grow well in office and home environments. Moreover, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botanist, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and learnable by anyone at first try. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home cultivation have higher technical requirements for the nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless culture technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare; moreover, due to commercial interests, major flower companies treat their nutrient solution technology as their top secret, so the nutrient solution formulas available from public sources are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference material and cannot be used in production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home use can be known with just one try. You only need to see whether the plants on display are growing vigorously and whether water roots are growing, because, as the saying goes: "Practice is the sole criterion for testing truth!"

◆4. How can hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8°C, and below 0°C their tissues will undergo necrosis. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely. In the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not drop below 5°C. If there are a few days of extreme low temperatures, this can be solved by placing a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate. In the north, because most homes have heating, the safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers can also be ensured.

◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only be certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all common popular flowers can be grown hydroponically. However, in a home environment, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, currently only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be grown, and in homes with balconies, a wider range of suitable varieties is available.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Every one of our specialty stores has a demonstration of fish being raised in hydroponic flowers, precisely to convey this information to customers.
Generally, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than 1 liter are suitable for keeping fish, and due to limited volume, fish species should also be selected carefully. Fish species with strong adaptability should be chosen, such as goldfish and small koi. Fish with strong aggression or destructiveness should not be kept in hydroponic flowers because they will damage plant roots; delicate fish are also unsuitable, because even raising them in dedicated aquariums is difficult enough, let alone in relatively poor-condition small vases. Water changes can be done at the same time as the normal water changes for the flowers. Feeding is the same as when we normally keep fish in a fish tank, with no difference.
Because the special substances in the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of water, which facilitates the respiration of plant roots, fish generally do not suffer from oxygen deficiency in the nutrient solution, so on days that are not especially hot, there is no need to install oxygenation equipment.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid and must be diluted before use; for dilution, tap water is generally fully sufficient, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, a water quality test should be conducted to understand the mineral content composition in the water. If a certain mineral in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula should be adjusted to facilitate normal plant growth.
During the dilution process, tap water can be used directly to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King will cause the chlorine in tap water to evaporate rapidly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, the diluted nutrient solution should be left to stand indoors for a period of time to prevent the plant roots from being damaged at the root hairs due to sudden temperature changes, which would cause the plant to wilt.

◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of hydrotropism of plant roots. The principle of hydrotropism is that plant root tips always grow toward the direction of sufficient moisture. This is shown when a plant's surface soil lacks water; to protect itself, the plant's root tips grow deeper into the soil to absorb the water needed for the plant's growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time, root growth has a very obvious directionality. However, plants growing in swamps or water do not lack water, so their roots grow in a more chaotic manner without obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not directly touching the water and a gap of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the potted plant but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week, roots will appear at the bottom of the pot growing toward the water. At this point, you do not need to add water; let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops. If you experiment with fast-growing plants, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, you can remove a potted plant that has already grown water roots from its pot and fix the plant with a planting basket, decorating it with stones or ornaments to make a planting basket hydroponic flower. The difference is that because there is no soil, you need to replace the clean water with nutrient solution. It is just that simple.

◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need water changes?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become less and less. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more, so hydroponic flowers need to have their nutrient solution replaced after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and repotting once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the interval between water changes should be shorter during the vigorous growing seasons of spring and summer, and longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or grow poorly?
Answer: It may be caused by too long an interval between solution changes, an incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or insufficient light. If these factors are ruled out, then check whether the nutrient solution level is too high, preventing the plant roots from respiring normally and causing oxygen deficiency. If none of these are the case, then we suggest you go to a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for consultation.

Exposing the hydroponic flower market - distinguishing genuine from fake hydroponic flowers

Currently, many companies are recruiting franchisees for hydroponic flower shops, causing a great commotion across the country. In particular, a company in Beijing has franchise stores that will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express many opinions, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flower industry, having witnessed everything, I cannot help but air some grievances. This is because the scams involved not only harm consumer interests but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. Currently, it is the low-temperature season, when plant respiration is weak. Washing plant roots and soaking them directly in water can keep them alive for a period of time. Plants with strong flooding tolerance, such as Araceae plants, can survive in water for 1-2 months. But once the weather turns hot, plant physiological respiration intensifies, and oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately occur. A hydroponic work bought for tens or hundreds of yuan and taken home is merely a fleeting bloom, which not only harms consumer interests but also greatly affects the development of the hydroponic industry. Now let us use a scientific perspective to expose the "deception techniques" involved.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. When winter comes, these plants slow their growth rate and their respiration weakens. In addition, Araceae plants are closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance. After washing the roots and soaking them directly in water, no adverse reaction can be seen from the plant for a while, but it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water; they can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory functions are severely blocked. Once the weather turns hot, the root system will suffer oxygen deficiency, become foul, and rot. For other terrestrial plants with somewhat stronger land adaptation, this method simply cannot work, so this is the main reason they can currently only use Araceae plants for their "deception." Their so-called induction liquid, I think, would be better and more honestly called "deception liquid." It is simply impossible for plants to undergo changes in tissue structure within a few minutes.

2. Charging high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a commercial gimmick. If the goods were genuine and the price fair, there would be nothing to criticize. If the technology were unique, it could also dominate the market and franchising would truly be meaningful. But the current kind of franchising can be described as swindling money. First, the technology has no technological content at all; it is just washing roots and soaking in water, something even a fool could imitate at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself has undergone decades of development and is no longer a technology exclusive to any one company. Using franchising simply cannot monopolize the market; other hydroponic flower shops can operate just as well, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once the franchise fee is paid, it is as good as gone down the drain. Genuine hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transport. In fact, what they are selling now are all products made from soil-cultivated seedlings with washed roots; it would be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.

3. Note: Araceae plants can also survive in water for a period of time in late autumn, winter, and early spring after their roots are washed and soaked in water. You might as well try it; there is absolutely no need for any deception liquid.

I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also visited several countries with relatively advanced hydroponic technology. Our country's current hydroponic market can be described as full of charlatans of all kinds, with the fake mixed in with the genuine. However, in the end, these franchise scams will still be cleared out by history and science. I remind everyone to keep your eyes open and not be misled by deception liquids.

How to distinguish genuine from fake hydroponic flowers

Genuine versus fake hydroponic flowers is essentially the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. Currently, many hydroponic flower operators do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective. Instead, proceeding only from commercial hype and personal profit, they pass off some ordinary soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants, fooling consumers and causing very bad social effects. After some citizens buy them at high prices, the plants die from physiological discomfort after being kept only a short while, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. To address this problem, buyers can distinguish genuine from fake in the following aspects to avoid being cheated.

A. Judge by root morphology: Hydroponic flowers that have undergone induction usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots. They are not like roots in soil, which have taproots, lateral roots, capillary roots, and root hairs - that is, they do not exist in a multi-order branched secondary root state. Even if there is branching, it is only a small amount of branched roots based on fibrous adventitious roots, with few orders and a simple root structure, which is its most obvious characteristic. In addition, for some plants that originally had radicles, after induction the number of first-order adventitious roots increases markedly, meaning the proportion of roots greatly increases, and the root system is numerous and well developed, resembling a beard.

B. Judge by root color: Plant water roots formed by aquatic induction mostly have the characteristics of being white, crisp, and tender. Even for varieties that show their natural root color, their water roots are noticeably lighter in color than land roots, such as yellowish-white, pale yellow, and light brown. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the fact that the cell walls have little or no thickening from suberization or lignification.

C. Judge by root integrity: Roots that have undergone aquatic induction regrow and differentiate starting from primary adventitious roots, and they all complete this in a water environment, so the root system is intact. In contrast, some soil-cultivated plants, even if carefully rinsed, still always have slight damage or severely residual roots. This kind of root integrity is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.

D. Judge by water clarity: Fake hydroponic works made from soil-washed seedlings, because the root system has not developed adaptability to water, will in an anaerobic environment undergo anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate. Visually, it appears turbid and unclear - that is, the water quality deteriorates or becomes foul, followed by root rot and eventually plant death.

E. Leaf angle can also be used to judge genuine from fake: Especially for many herbaceous flowers that are extremely sensitive to ethylene, after induction their leaf insertion angle is noticeably more flat than that of soil-washed seedlings from soil cultivation - that is, epinastic growth causes the angle to increase, or even droop.

Increasing the dissolved oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solutions

Apart from light, temperature, and humidity, which have the same environmental requirements as soil cultivation, hydroponic flowers differ vastly in the management of water, fertilizer, and oxygen. Water: Home hydroponic flowers should use soft water as their water source; generally, tap water that meets national standards can be used. Tap water has undergone filtration, sedimentation, and sterilization treatment, is clean and hygienic, and has a pH below 7, so it can be safely used to grow hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees, are seriously eutrophic, and may differ greatly in various ions. If one ion exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage the plants or cause poisoning and death, so they are not suitable as a water source for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home hydroponic flowers must use a low-concentration special nutrient solution based mainly on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with a balanced ratio of various elements. The inorganic salts are in ionic form and are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and at different growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and have an appropriate pH, which is conducive to nutrient absorption. It is not advisable to crush soil fertilizers or granular chemical fertilizers and use them for hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on the flowers, but long-term application will inevitably interfere with normal physiological metabolism. It is even less permissible to use organic fertilizers as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, with dissolved oxygen below /ppm/L. The flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel, and their root systems are commonly seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface in search of more oxygen. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of the hydroponic nutrient solution is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, especially in summer. There are several simple and easy ways to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of nutrient solution changes. 2. Oxygenation by shaking: fix the flower plant with one hand and gently shake the vessel more than 10 times with the other hand. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a miniature submersible pump or oxygenation pump (both are standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. Plant roots in such an environment can obtain sufficient oxygen, respiration is very vigorous, and the flowers are promoted to grow robustly.

See through fake hydroponic flower technology at a glance

Hydroponic flowers, with flowers and fish kept together in a combination of movement and stillness, are the first impression they give. The earliest concept in China first sprouted around the turn of the 21st century (although some people had earlier grown some easily water-cultivated plants such as Araceae plants and lucky bamboo in water, this concept does not belong to the currently popular "hydroponic flower" concept!). It rose in 2003, when many enterprises and units with market vision turned one after another to preliminary research and planning work in this industry. In addition, with the broadcast of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it flourished from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers could be said to bloom everywhere in China, with some providing technical study and training, some producing at bases, and some opening franchise flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises, and individuals, stimulated by profit, put on shows in the market. On the one hand, this added fuel to the hype of the domestic hydroponic flower market concept and let many citizens understand and recognize this new concept and product; on the other hand, many investors and operators became sacrifices to this wave of market trends. By 2006, as the waves washed away the sand, those with their own core technology and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operational ability, could still survive in such a chaotic market tide, and those who could remain were very few. However, hydroponic flowers, as a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new wave in the development of the flower industry, and driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this industry for three or four years and is relatively familiar with it. In view of the uneven quality of the current hydroponic flower market, this article makes a systematic analysis and summary, all in order to give the general public who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding for everyone's reference:

II. What are truly genuine hydroponic flowers?

From a sensory point of view, using glass vases of various shapes and sizes, with plants and flowers grown on top (currently, the range of species using hydroponic technology has been extended to include other woody plants, vines, succulents, and so on), and a few cute small fish kept below, that is a hydroponic flower (plant)! But from a technical level, truly genuine hydroponic flowers refer to those cultivated through various biological, physical, computer, and other technical means so that the physiological characteristics of their root systems change and they have water roots with plant aerenchyma tissue, and can then adapt to long-term cultivation in water, only then can they become truly genuine hydroponic flowers (plants)!

III. How to identify truly genuine hydroponic flowers?

Judging from sensory impressions:
Report on the current status of hydroponic flower technology. I. Introduction:
A successful, truly genuine hydroponic plant, after induction and acclimation, should have a plant root system that is white, elegant, and with many fibrous roots, very clearly different from soil-cultivated plants, whose roots are mostly a relatively deep black color! (Except for the roots of a small number of plants that have their own distinctive color. For example, after induction, the roots, branches, and stem sections of Chinese fringe flower are all deep red! There are also some plants whose roots, after the soil is removed, are nearly white!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it means it was only just placed in the bottle not long ago and put there to deceive customers! Even if it has undergone induction, it cannot be sold as merchandise!

Judging from a technical perspective:

1) Does it possess a professional technical level?

If, as some merchants say, all that is needed is so-called "induction liquid," "acclimation liquid," or "nutrient solution," and the plant is soaked in water for a few days or a few hours, with some even saying that hydroponic flowers can be achieved in just a few dozen minutes or a few minutes, such claims can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if plant roots are severely oxygen-deficient in water, the roots will soon undergo anaerobic respiration, then fermentation and root rot. As a result, large amounts of fermentation products accumulate in the bottle, mosquitoes breed, insects appear, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only when the induction of plant water roots is truly achieved, forming hydroponic plants with aerenchyma tissue that can adapt well to low-oxygen conditions in water, can they truly be called hydroponic flowers. The cultivation of water roots cannot be fully completed and achieved by nutrient solution alone; it requires a combination of biological, physical, computer, and other methods and means, and after a relatively long period of cultivation, only after fully adapting to the water environment can it become a professional, truly genuine hydroponic flower!

2) Does it have a relatively strong level and ability in artistic combination?

Hydroponic flowers belong to the mid-to-high-end consumer category. Their ornamental value lies in: artistically composed arrangements, with each product depending on its artistic glass bottle container, beautiful plant shape, white and elegant root system, and the perfect combination and matching of fish, water, grass, and other ornaments in the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work, aside from natural sensory appeal, a strong artistic combination is not something an ordinary beginner can put together! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether the producer possesses such aesthetic standards!

3) Does it have the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and fixed supply channels?

Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether a merchant has the ability to produce professional hydroponic flowers. If there are neither fixed production facilities nor powerful and branded producers as supply sources, then such a hydroponic flower provider is very likely passing off soil-cultivated plants with washed roots as "hydroponic flowers"!

Examining from the varieties:

The hydroponic flower varieties that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to plants such as those in Araceae and Crassulaceae, like peace lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, lucky bamboo, Monstera deliciosa, and Rohdea japonica, which are themselves easy to grow in water. These plant varieties are inherently near-water and water-loving, and can generally be cultivated in water by ordinary methods. A professional producer should be able to hydroponically grow all kinds of woody plants and all kinds of water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus, Pachira aquatica, Polyscias fruticosa, and even Taxus chinensis, osmanthus, fruit trees, and so on! If the plant varieties a merchant can provide are single and limited, then it is certainly not a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Examining from time:

Time is the final and only criterion for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to long-term cultivation in water and are merely a fleeting bloom, dying after only a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers made by speculators who wash off the soil-cultivated root system and can produce them within a few hours; before many days pass, the flowers bloom and then fade! Therefore, at present, for those operators who cannot provide a shelf life for their products, most are speculators. If a merchant cannot provide a shelf life for the product, it is advised not to buy, to avoid being cheated!
IV. How to identify a truly professional hydroponic flower producer?

Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "formal" methods in publicity and information transmission to muddle through and fool the broad masses of consumers and investors. In order to leave no place for so-called high-tech shell companies and "guerrilla" technology-transfer companies that fight in one place and move to another, which rent a few offices inside national universities (such as Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), research institutes (such as the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), or institutions under the Ministry of Agriculture (such as the Bureau of Retired Cadres of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technical center of the Ministry of Agriculture), and then start advertising to rake in money, and also to deprive malicious sellers who transfer some immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices of a market for deception, and further, so that you can learn these kinds of truly genuine technology.

The author solemnly reminds you: no matter where in the country or on what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes open, be more vigilant, look at several more companies, and compare more; you must carefully compare the scale of the unit, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service, {{Remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try as much as possible to go see a franchisee to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, in which case you must think twice before acting. This is the most direct and final method of judgment. Of course, in addition, those "high-level" companies will also use methods like "medical shills," "academic shills," "real estate shills," and "bar shills," fooling you with the skill of the "master of deception" Zhao Benshan, making it impossible to guard against!}}; you must carefully examine the authenticity of the technology, training capability, and relevant certificates; you must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies and suffer unnecessary economic and psychological losses. Apart from distinguishing whether something is truly a hydroponic flower through the product itself, in fact everyone can see through the many speculators one by one simply by being more vigilant. The following points of experience and several types

How to apply foliar fertilization to hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under conditions of root oxygen deficiency, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. To improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves.

A fine-hole spray bottle should be used, trying not to let the fertilizer solution run off, and the backs of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growing period, and it can make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing and also for flower appreciation, such as peace lily, wax begonia, bamboo begonia, and calla lily, a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week from the bud stage until the flowers open.

What to Do When Polyscias Leaves Turn Yellow and Drop? Causes and Solutions

I. Overwatering

Prevention and Control Measures

II. Lack of Light

Prevention and Control Measures

III. Pest Infestation

Prevention and Control Measures

IV. Fertilizer Concentration Too High

Prevention and Control Measures

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

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