What are the maintenance and care precautions for the false aralia?

1. Provide appropriate shade in summer and plenty of sun in autumn and winter; the suitable temperature is 20°C-29°C. In winter the temperature should not fall below 5°C.

2. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, pause fertilizing. When it drops to 10-13°C, stop all forms of topdressing. When its leaves show physiological yellowing, you may appropriately apply by watering or spraying a 0.2% ferrous sulfate solution.

3. Repot once every two years as needed.

4. The false aralia is susceptible to leaf spot and anthracnose; spray with a 500-fold dilution of 50% thiophanate wettable powder for control.

5. When the air is too dry, scale insects readily harm the leaves; check promptly and remove them by hand or spray omethoate for control.

6. At the turn of spring and summer it is susceptible to red spider mite damage; strengthen ventilation and control early.

Care and management of potted flowers in August

Every season has its own characteristics, and this year's summer has been unusually hot. In such harsh conditions, the flowers on balconies and in courtyards also become very miserable; if care is neglected, various diseases can arise, and in severe cases even death. So in the hot month of August, how should potted flowers on courtyards and balconies be managed? The editor will analyze this for you from several major routine care aspects.

Pouch flower (Calceolaria)

I. Watering

In August, water between 9 and 10 in the morning and after 4 in the afternoon, keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For acid-loving ornamental plant species, add 0.1% ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as pouch flower (Calceolaria), gloxinia, iron-cross begonia, and downy-leaved begonia, water droplets that land on the leaves do not evaporate easily and can cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting may be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of clivia must not be drenched with water either, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water must be given sparingly and misted frequently, and water poured into the leaf tank to meet their needs. This month, while watering and misting potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to harden. For flower species in dormancy or semi-dormancy, control watering and misting, just keeping the potting soil slightly moist; by misting the small environment around the flower pot, you can create a relatively cool and moist environment for them.

II. Fertilizing

In August, for foliage plants such as monstera, aspidistra, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, rhapis palm, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, Arecastrum romanzoffianum, beautiful queen palm, areca palm, fishtail palm, fan palm, pothos, Brazil wood, Dutch iron, money tree, Boston fern, umbrella tree, Chinese jasmine (African jasmine), Lanyu cinnamon (peace wood), coin tree (dragon-phoenix wood), arrowhead vine, green emperor, green queen, poinsettia, pink-powder leaf, Schefflera, Aucuba japonica, pocket coconut, croton, Japanese fatsia, etc., you may apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For long-flowering species such as Chinese rose, white orchid, jasmine, pearl orchid, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia, four-season osmanthus, day-fragrance osmanthus, bougainvillea, lantana, etc., as well as fruit-bearing ones such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, kumquat, lemon, fortune seed, firethorn, golden bullet, fruit pomegranate, nandina, and papaya, besides ensuring nitrogen supply, also apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as salvia, globe amaranth, drought chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, snapdragon, China aster, chrysanthemum, and dwarf sunflower, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn arrives. For flower and tree species in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, osmanthus, and azalea, apply low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to the leaves. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, spray the leaves once promptly after fertilizing, to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormancy or semi-dormancy, such as clivia, four-season begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, purslane tree, Christmas cactus, sedum species, purple triangular wood sorrel, cactus species, and ball cactus species, stop all forms of topdressing, otherwise the plants can easily rot at the roots or die.

Four-season begonia

III. Shading

In August, the heat is still intense, and shade management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For cool-loving ornamental plant species such as monstera, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, little angel, rubber tree, areca palm, green giant, arrowhead vine, calathea species, red (green) gem, rhapis palm, pothos, green emperor, green queen, orchid species, pink-powder leaf, pepper grass, bromeliad species, water ball flower, mirror grass, fern species, Buddha-belly bamboo, phoenix-tail bamboo, spider plant, lucky grass, pocket coconut, nerve plant, purple velvet, blood leaf orchid, silver queen, black-leaf alocasia, crystal anthurium, anthurium, begonia species, lucky bamboo, aspidistra, asparagus fern, purple hosta, etc., you may continue to provide shed shading: pull on the shade net at 9 in the morning and remove it after 4 in the afternoon. If there are not many potted flowers, you may also move them indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, you may also move them under the dense shade of large trees, and move them out from the tree shade in mid-September.

IV. Pruning

In August, continue pinching or pruning those vigorously growing, pruning-tolerant, and easily sprouting tree-stump bonsai, such as Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese fringe tree, water willow, and boxwood. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia, etc., after each flowering, perform renewal pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud stripping and bud removal.

V. Pest and disease control

In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail, rose sawfly, and peach red-necked longhorn beetle. Pay attention to preventing orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to controlling chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.

The content and specific measures of maintenance and management work in landscaping projects

In cultivation science, there is a common saying: "plant three, manage seven." What is planted in greening is all living plants. Many units, when doing landscaping, often have high-standard planning and design but low-level construction and maintenance, resulting in brief beauty that does not last. In greening maintenance and management, you must understand the planting types and the characteristics and traits of various varieties, and focus on the five aspects of maintenance and management: fertilizer, water, disease, insects, and pruning.

(1) Maintenance and management of lawns

The principles of lawn maintenance are: uniform and consistent, pure and free of weeds, and evergreen in all four seasons. According to data, under general management levels, a green lawn (Taiwan grass) can be divided into four stages according to the length of planting time. First is the stage from planting to full coverage, referring to newly planted lawn, from planting to one year or full coverage (100% covered with no bare patches), also called the full-coverage period. Second is the vigorous growth stage, referring to 2-5 years after planting, also called the vigorous growth period. Third is the slow growth stage, referring to 6-10 years after planting, also called the slow growth period. Fourth is the degradation stage, referring to 10-15 years after planting, also called the degradation period. Under higher maintenance and management levels, the degradation period of Taiwan grass can be delayed by 5-8 years. The degradation period of carpet bentgrass is 3-5 years later than that of Taiwan grass, while that of large-leaf grass is 3-5 years earlier.

1. Management during the recovery-to-full-coverage stage

According to design and process requirements, the seedbed of a newly planted lawn must be strictly cleared of weed seeds, grass roots, and grass stems, and filled with clean imported soil, scraped level, and compacted to more than 10 cm before the turf can be laid. There are two ways to lay turf: full laying and sparse laying. Sparse laying generally leaves empty spaces equal to the area of each 20×20 cm square piece of turf; full laying has no full-coverage period, only a recovery period of 7-10 days, while sparse laying has 50% bare ground and requires a certain amount of time to become full; turf laid in spring and summer has a short full-coverage period of only 1-2 months, while turf laid in autumn and winter becomes full slowly and takes 2-3 months. In maintenance and management, the focus is on water and fertilizer management: prevent waterlogging for spring laying, prevent sunscald for summer laying, and prevent wind and preserve moisture for autumn and winter laying. Generally, within one week after laying turf, spray water once in the morning and once in the evening, and check whether the turf is compacted, requiring the grass roots to cling tightly to the imported soil. Within two weeks after laying, spray water once every evening; after two weeks, depending on the season and weather, generally spray water once every two days, mainly to preserve moisture. Fertilizing starts one week after planting and continues for three months, once every half month, using 1-3% urea solution sprayed together with watering, dilute first and stronger later; thereafter once a month, using 4-6 jin of urea per mu, applied dry on rainy days and as liquid on sunny days. When the lawn is fully covered and the grass height is 8-10 cm, mow with a lawn mower. For weed removal, whether as early as half a month after planting or as late as one month, once weeds begin to grow, dig them out promptly and remove the roots, then compact the soil after digging, so as not to affect the growth of the main grass. Newly planted lawns generally have no pests or diseases and do not need pesticide spraying; to accelerate growth, in the later period you may spray 0.1-0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate together with watering.

2. Management during the vigorous growth stage

From the second to the fifth year after planting, the lawn is in the vigorous growth stage. Ornamental lawns are mainly for greening, so the focus is on maintaining greenness. For water management, part the grass stems: the imported soil should be dry but not pale, moist but not waterlogged; the principle throughout the year is dry in spring and summer and moist in autumn and winter. Fertilize lightly and thinly; throughout the year, apply less from April to September and more at both ends, using 2-4 jin of urea per mu after each mowing. In the vigorous growth season, control fertilizer and water to control the growth rate; otherwise the number of mowings increases and maintenance costs rise. Mowing is the key task of this stage; the number of mowings and the quality of mowing are related to lawn degradation and maintenance costs. The number of mowings should be controlled at 8-10 times a year, mowing once a month on average from February to September, and once every two months from October to January of the following year. Mowing technical requirements: First, the best ornamental grass height is 6-10 cm; it can be mowed when it exceeds 10 cm, and when it is greater than 15 cm it will form "grass mounds" with locally lumpy appearance, at which point it must be mowed. Second, prepare before mowing: check that the mower power is normal and the blade is sharp and undamaged, and at the same time clean fine stones and debris from the lawn. Third, for mower operation, adjust the blade distance to 2-4 cm above the ground (low mowing in the vigorous growth season, high mowing in autumn and winter), advance at a constant speed, overlap each pass by 3-5 cm, and do not miss any areas. Fourth, after mowing, promptly clean up the grass clippings, and preserve moisture and fertilize.

3. Management during the slow growth stage

For lawns 6-10 years after planting, the growth rate declines somewhat, dead leaves and dead stems increase year by year, root rot easily occurs in hot and humid seasons, and in autumn and winter they are susceptible to cutworm damage. The key task is to pay attention to preventing and controlling pests and diseases. According to observation, Taiwan grass begins to rot at the roots after three consecutive days of waterlogging, and still has vitality after the waterlogged water is drained; after seven consecutive days of waterlogging, more than 90% of the roots rot, with almost no vitality, requiring re-laying of turf. Although root rot is slight after 1-2 days of waterlogging, after drainage, high temperature and humidity favor pathogen growth, leading to root rot. Using thiophanate or carbendazim at 800-1000 times dilution, spraying the affected area 2-3 times (once every 2-10 days), is effective for controlling root rot. Older cutworms cut the grass base at the soil surface, forming blocky drying, with the area expanding day by day; the damage is rapid, causing large areas to dry up. During inspection, the larvae can only be found by parting the grass. Discover them early and apply pesticide promptly when the larvae are young; generally use methamidophos or Supracide at 800 times dilution poured on, increasing the liquid at the damaged area, and after three days clear away the dead grass at the damaged area and supplement with urea solution; growth begins to recover after one week. Fertilizer and water management in the slow growth period should be stronger than in the vigorous growth period, and foliar fertilization can be increased. The number of mowings should be controlled at 7-8 times per year.

4. Management during the lawn degradation stage

Lawns begin to degrade year by year 10 years after planting, and degrade severely 15 years after planting. For water management, alternate dry and wet, and strictly prohibit waterlogging; otherwise root rot and death will worsen. Strengthen inspection and control of pests and diseases. Besides normal fertilizing, every 10-15 days apply 1% urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate mixed solution as foliar fertilizer, or spray commercial leaf-care products and foliar fertilizers such as Dafengtian, which works very well. For locally completely dead areas, full re-laying and replanting can be carried out. Degraded lawns recover green slowly after mowing, so the total number of mowings for the year should not exceed 6. In addition, because the main grass is sparse, weeds grow easily and must be dug out promptly. In this period, management must be comprehensively strengthened to effectively delay lawn degradation.

(2) Maintenance and management of hedges

The principles of hedge maintenance and management are: ensure fertilizer and water supply, promote luxuriant growth, and prune into a hedge, wall, and shape, achieving ornamental and isolating functions.

1. Fertilizer and water management of hedges

Hedges need continuous pruning and have relatively high fertilizer and water requirements. For newly planted hedges, according to the designed hedge width, dig a 40 cm deep trench and fill it with clean fertile imported soil, or mix an appropriate amount of decomposed organic fertilizer or compound fertilizer into the imported soil, so that growth after planting is fast. The fertilizing principle is: sufficient base fertilizer and quick topdressing, mainly nitrogen, combined with phosphorus and potassium, applied in groups and thinly, and обязательно after pruning; foliar fertilization may also be carried out when necessary. For water management, focus on moisture retention, keep the surface soil dry but not pale, and drain after rain to prevent waterlogging, so as not to cause root rot and affect growth.

2. Pruning of hedges

Flat hedges, patterned hedges, and design hedges are all formed by artificial pruning to meet design requirements. The functions of pruning: first, inhibit the plant's apical growth dominance, promote axillary bud sprouting and branch growth, make the wall full, and facilitate pruning into shape. Second, accelerate shaping to satisfy the designed ornamental effect. The pruning principle: from small to large, prune many times, keep lines smooth, and shape as needed. The general designed height of hedges is 60-150 cm; those over 150 cm are tall hedges (also called green walls), used to block sightlines. The technical requirements for initial pruning are: begin pruning when the hedge grows to 30 cm high. Prune 3-5 times according to the design type to form a prototype. Pruning time: after each pruning, clear away the cut branches and leaves, strengthen fertilizer and water management, and carry out the next pruning when the new branches and leaves grow to 4-6 cm; if the interval between prunings is too long, the hedge will lose its shape and must be pruned. Do not prune at noon, in rain, in strong wind, or in fog. Pruning operation: at present, large hedge shears are mostly used for manual operation, requiring the blade to be sharp and close to the hedge surface, without missing cuts and with few heavy cuts; cut more on the vigorous protruding parts and less on the weak depressed parts; straight and flat places can be pruned along a line; for shaped hedges (round, mushroom, fan, Great Wall, etc.), prune according to the shape, cutting more on top and less around the sides. Final shaping pruning: after the hedge has grown to the design requirement and been shaped, each pruning removes all newly grown branches and leaves to maintain the designed specification and form.

3. Pest and disease control of hedges

Sanjijia hedges are often harmed by psyllids, leaf miners, and powdery mildew; Fujian tea is harmed by psyllids, scale insects, and powdery mildew; yellow-heart plum is relatively resistant to pests and diseases, with occasional psyllids. The above pests and diseases can all be effectively controlled with conventional insecticides such as Supracide and fungicides such as thiophanate and carbendazim.

(3) Management of greening trees

In landscaping, the area planted with trees is not the largest, but the greening space they occupy is the largest. The reasonable combination of lawns, fresh flowers, shrubs, and trees reflects the effect of three-dimensional greening. As the saying goes, "green trees form shade, fresh flowers bloom," creating a good microclimate and a beautiful environment. In addition, many shrub trees, after planting, can be pruned and shaped to stand gracefully in lawns and scenic spots, and can even produce a three-dimensional dynamic effect.

1. Fertilizer and water management

Trees are tall with well-developed root systems, deep roots, and wide spread. When planting, a square pit of 0.8-1.0 cubic meters must be dug, filled with fertile imported soil to 30 cm above ground level before planting. In terms of fertilizing, the fertilizer type is mainly compound fertilizer; the N:P:K ratio for young trees 1-3 years old is 5:3:2; for large trees over three years old it is 3:2:1. As for the number of fertilizations, within three years after planting, apply once each in spring, summer, and early autumn every year, using 1-2 kg of compound fertilizer each time, less for small trees and more for large trees. The fertilizing method is: for small trees, apply liquid fertilizer together with loosening the soil; for large trees, evenly dig holes in the ground within the crown spread and apply dry fertilizer; in principle, tall trees over three years old may not be fertilized. Shrub trees are small in form, mainly planted in shallow holes or shallow trenches; their clustered roots are shallow, so apply an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer according to the soil and tree vigor, combining liquid and dry application; appropriately increase P and K fertilizer for flowering and fruiting shrubs, and appropriately increase N fertilizer for foliage shrubs. In water management for greening trees, the focus is on young trees; the principle is moisture retention without waterlogging, with the surface soil dry but not pale. Tall trees have deep roots and lush leaves, so there is no problem of growth being affected by lack of water; shrubs are short with shallow root systems, so both potted and ground-planted ones must prevent drought, retain moisture, and avoid waterlogging to grow normally.

2. Tree shape management

For greening trees, through artistic design and careful management, making them sparse or dense, shapely and stylish, and well placed, is one of the keys to successful greening. Trees are required to have straight and upright trunks; do not remove the fixed support stakes from planting time too early, to avoid causing trunk bending. For mature large trees, promptly saw off irregular branches; for wind-blocking branches with a large crown and many leaves but small branches, do not saw them off, or in heavy wind and rain they may break branches and trunks, and in severe cases be uprooted, causing losses. Shrubs are required to be neat, shapely, and orderly; the tree shape is formed by continuous growth and continuous artificial pruning, and can be pruned into round ball, square, fan, mushroom, abstract pattern, line, column, cone, etc. Wire can even be used to weave characters or "two dragons playing with a pearl," "lion rolling a ball," "peacock spreading its tail," etc., letting the shrub branches and leaves grow within them, forming them through weaving and pruning. Regardless of trees or shrubs, promptly remove dead branches and fallen leaves. For stem-ornamental trees such as royal palm and Alexander palm, ensure the trunk is straight and clean; the leaf sheaths are large and do not fall off naturally easily after drying, so they must be removed manually in time.

3. Pest and disease control of trees

The main pests of greening trees are longhorn beetles, psyllids, leaf miners, leaf-mining beetles, scale insects, and scarab beetles. In recent years, psyllids have caused relatively serious damage in trees and shrubs, followed by scale insects; conventional insecticides, Supracide, Jieteling, etc. can all achieve control effects. The main diseases are: root rot, powdery mildew, anthracnose, etc.; commonly used control drugs include thiophanate, carbendazim, anthracnose-specific agents, etc., at a commonly used concentration of 800-1000 times. Besides chemical control, in cultivation you should often clean up dead branches and fallen leaves, keep things clean, and at the same time drain waterlogging; when necessary, spray after pruning.

(4) Management of flowers

"When the flowers bloom in profusion, she smiles among them..." Fresh flowers bring people happiness and joy. Planting flowers is an indispensable part of greening, aimed at appreciating their brightly colored and variously shaped blooms. Flowers are divided into herbaceous, woody, and vine types; some varieties bloom only once in their life (one growth cycle), and some bloom only once a year. Different flower varieties have different blooming seasons and flower period lengths. To achieve flowers blooming in all four seasons, besides scientifically matching different varieties for planting, good management is the key.

1. Management of ground-planted flowers

The ones planted in the ground are mostly canna, yellow flower grass, multicolor flowers, and peach, plum, apricot blossoms, osmanthus, Michelia, as well as firecracker vine, honeysuckle, etc. In cultivation, the soil is required to be fertile and loose, with good permeability and strong water and fertilizer retention. For fertilizer and water management, in the early stage provide sufficient fertilizer and water, mainly N, combined with P and K; in the middle stage combine N, P, and K; before flowering, control fertilizer and water to promote flower bud differentiation; after flowering, supplement P, K, and N fertilizer to prolong the flowering period. Loosen the soil, remove weeds, and earth up once a month by shallowly loosening the surface soil, removing weeds, and combining with fertilizing. Herbaceous flowers are mostly given liquid fertilizer; woody flowers can be dry-fertilized in small holes during the rainy season. Tall ground-planted flowers and trees must not have exposed roots; earth up appropriately to prevent toppling. Pruning and covering: during growth, promptly cut off dry and withered branches and leaves; in addition, in summer and autumn carry out surface covering (with cut Taiwan grass), which can retain moisture, prevent drought, and inhibit weed growth. Pest and disease control: spray insecticide once a month, and spray fungicide once after pruning or before and after typhoons and heavy rain, all of which have control effects. The difference in managing vine flowers is that they need pillars or trellises to climb and grow.

2. Management of potted flowers

In landscaping, potted flowers mainly refer to two major categories: potted seasonal flowers and potted shade plants. Potted flowers are cultivated through two stages. The first stage is cultivation in the nursery. The second stage is after potting and growing to ornamental value or around flowering, when they are placed in outdoor plazas (flower beds), greening scenic spots, as well as pavilions and buildings, and even indoors in offices, meeting rooms, halls, and balconies. In the nursery, for cultivating potted flowers, first select various types of seasonal flowers and shade plants, prepare the ground, sow or take cuttings (asexual propagation in a shaded sand bed), and strengthen fertilizer, water, pest, and disease management during the seedling stage. Then prepare ceramic or plastic flower pots of suitable specifications, fill them with a pre-mixed formula flower soil (65-70% dry pond mud granules, 10% decomposed organic matter, 20% sand, 3-5% compound fertilizer), press a tile over the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, fill to 80%, and finally plant the seedlings, place them by category, strengthen management, and move them to the display point when they have grown large or around flowering.

For the second stage of potted flower management, because they are placed in a scattered manner, focus on the three preventions: prevent drought, prevent waterlogging, and prevent freezing. Prevent drought: in hot weather, water transpires and evaporates quickly; water once every 2-3 days outdoors and once every 5-7 days indoors. Prevent waterlogging: the pot body has very poor permeability and leakage, and waterlogging can only seep through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot; for outdoor potted plants, strictly prohibit the pot bottom from sitting directly on mud, and for indoor and balcony potted plants, do not water every day. After each watering, observe whether there is dripping at the bottom of the pot. If it does not drip, either the potting soil has hardened and should be loosened appropriately, or the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot is blocked and should be cleared promptly or the pot turned. Most failures with potted flowers are due to waterlogging in the bottom part of the pot causing root rot, which affects growth and even causes death. Prevent freezing: tropical flowers and shade plants such as green giant and evergreen, when winter temperatures fall below 18°C, many varieties begin to show cold damage; for outdoor and balcony potted flowers, in low-temperature and frosty weather, build sheds and cover them for warmth or move them into a warm house to prevent freezing. Besides doing the above "three preventions" well, shade plants need sun protection; under strong sun the leaves are scorched, affecting growth and even causing death, so they should be placed indoors, in halls, and on balconies in back-sun places without direct light.

For potted fertilizing, combine organic and inorganic fertilizers; for woody plants mainly organic, for herbaceous plants mainly inorganic. For flowering plants the P:K:N ratio is (3:2:1), and for foliage plants it is (2:1:3). The number of fertilizations depends on growth vigor, 1-2 times a month, applying liquid fertilizer together with watering, reducing dry application. Strictly prohibit the use of undecomposed organic fertilizer, otherwise fertilizer damage can easily injure the roots. The amount of fertilizer depends on how much potting soil there is; better less than more, to avoid fertilizer damage. When necessary, use foliar spraying of "leaf care" and "Dafengtian," etc., which can make leaf color dark green and prolong the flowering period. Repotting: to make potted flowers have many roots and lush leaves, bloom on time, and have a long flowering period, most perennial woody and some other flowers need repotting. Two factors must be considered in the timing of repotting: first, the amount and quality of potting soil; repot early when there is little soil and the quality is poor, and repot later when there is more soil and the quality is good (such as formula flower soil made purely of dry pond mud); second, the size and height of the flower; repot tall flowers early and short flowers later; generally repot once every 2-3 years. Repotting method: place a tile over the drainage hole of an empty pot, put a handful of coarse sand on the tile, then put in one-third of the formula flower soil. Do not water for 3-5 days before repotting. When repotting, pour a small amount of water around the inner edge of the pot, shake the pot body, tilt the flower pot sideways, use a wooden stick or both thumbs to press against the tile at the bottom of the pot, shaking and pressing until the potting soil separates from the pot, use a flower shovel to remove one-third of the old soil (at most no more than 50%), keep the new roots, use pruning shears to cut off old roots, trim the broken roots evenly, then carefully place it into the new pot, straighten the roots and trunk, fill with formula flower soil, compact, and water thoroughly (until it drips from the bottom of the pot). Because potted flowers are scattered, with good ventilation and light transmission, there are fewer pests and diseases, but you must look carefully; once discovered, use a hand sprayer to spray each pot one by one.

In addition, some flowers have strict requirements for soil pH. For example, Michelia and camellia require acidic soil to grow normally; you may water with citric acid solution 2-3 times a month, keeping the soil pH at around 4.0.

(5) Management of bonsai

In landscaping there are a small number of finished bonsai, placed in pavilions and buildings and at specially needed scenic spots. Their cultivation and management are roughly the same as woody potted flowers, with the key difference being pruning to maintain shape. Different bonsai have different artistic forms; during growth the trunk keeps growing taller and the branches and leaves keep increasing. If not pruned, they will change shape and lose shape, losing the original design style and characteristics. Bonsai pruning must be performed by technicians and horticulturists with professional knowledge and skills; prune what should be pruned and do not prune what should not be pruned, and by no means destroy the ornamental face and lose the original school, style, and artistic form.