Detailed Guide to Propagating Red-Backed Laurel by Cuttings, Even Beginners Can Learn
I. Best Time for Cuttings
The best time is before the spring buds begin to sprout. During this period, the branches are rich in hormones and have accumulated plenty of nutrients. After planting, as the temperature rises, the cuttings quickly form callus tissue. If this timing is missed, cuttings can be taken from late July to mid-August, after the spring shoots stop growing and before the flower buds and autumn shoots begin to sprout, but young shoots that grew in the current spring must be selected as cuttings to achieve an ideal survival rate.
II. Preparing the Cutting Bed
When taking cuttings, choose a sunny spot and dig a flat-bottomed rectangular pit 12 m long, 1.2 m wide and 0.7 m deep. Fill the bottom with a 40 cm thick layer of manure or other heat-generating material, then spread a 15-20 cm layer of vermiculite and perlite on top as the cutting substrate for the seedbed. After planting, build a small plastic arch tunnel 50 cm high and a shade shed 1 m high. Once the seedbed is ready, use a 0.5% potassium permanganate aqueous solution to strictly disinfect the soil, preventing damping-off and rot in the seedlings.
III. Cutting Operation
When taking cuttings, select healthy, pest-free autumn shoots from the previous year as cuttings, cut them into 8-10 cm lengths, keep 2-3 leaves at the top, then soak the base of the cuttings 2 cm deep in a 0.05%-0.1% naphthaleneacetic acid aqueous solution for about 5 seconds. Cut, soak and insert as you go. When inserting, follow a 10 x 10 cm plant and row spacing, first make a small hole with a wooden (bamboo) stick, insert the cutting, cover with substrate and press lightly, water thoroughly with a fine-nozzle watering can, then cover with film and a straw curtain shade shed. The autumn cutting method is the same as in spring, but temperature must be especially well controlled to avoid excessive heat affecting survival.
Propagating Red-Backed Laurel by Cuttings
Red-backed laurel (detailed introduction) is not difficult to cultivate, but because of its relatively high ornamental value, it is often grown as a potted plant and is very popular, so demand is relatively high. Nowadays, red-backed laurel is mostly propagated quickly by cuttings to meet market demand.
Red-Backed Laurel
I. Best Time for Cuttings
The best time is before the spring buds begin to sprout. During this period, the branches are rich in hormones and have accumulated plenty of nutrients. After planting, as the temperature rises, the cuttings quickly form callus tissue. If this timing is missed, cuttings can be taken from late July to mid-August, after the spring shoots stop growing and before the flower buds and autumn shoots begin to sprout, but young shoots that grew in the current spring must be selected as cuttings to achieve an ideal survival rate.
II. Preparing the Cutting Bed
When taking cuttings, choose a sunny spot and dig a flat-bottomed rectangular pit 12 m long, 1.2 m wide and 0.7 m deep. Fill the bottom with a 40 cm thick layer of manure or other heat-generating material, then spread a 15-20 cm layer of vermiculite and perlite on top as the cutting substrate for the seedbed. After planting, build a small plastic arch tunnel 50 cm high and a shade shed 1 m high. Once the seedbed is ready, use a 0.5% potassium permanganate aqueous solution to strictly disinfect the soil, preventing damping-off and rot in the seedlings.
III. Cutting Operation
When taking cuttings, select healthy, pest-free autumn shoots from the previous year as cuttings, cut them into 8-10 cm lengths, keep 2-3 leaves at the top, then soak the base of the cuttings 2 cm deep in a 0.05%-0.1% naphthaleneacetic acid aqueous solution for about 5 seconds. Cut, soak and insert as you go. When inserting, follow a 10 x 10 cm plant and row spacing, first make a small hole with a wooden (bamboo) stick, insert the cutting, cover with substrate and press lightly, water thoroughly with a fine-nozzle watering can, then cover with film and a straw curtain shade shed. The autumn cutting method is the same as in spring, but temperature must be especially well controlled to avoid excessive heat affecting survival.
How to Grow Red-Backed Laurel
Temperature
Red-backed laurel is a subtropical plant and is not cold-hardy. The suitable growing temperature is between 15-25°C, and the overwintering temperature must not be lower than 5°C.
Light
It tolerates partial shade and prefers scattered light. Never expose it to strong direct sunlight. In summer, place it in a shaded, ventilated spot, which helps keep the leaves of red-backed laurel a deep green.
Watering
Red-backed laurel likes a moist growing environment but dislikes waterlogging. Water thoroughly during the growing season to keep the potting soil and surrounding environment moist, but be careful to avoid standing water. Control watering in winter; generally watering once every 7-10 days is enough, and the potting soil can be slightly moist to somewhat dry.
Fertilizing
When planting or repotting and changing the soil, an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer can be applied as a base fertilizer. During the growing season, apply a compound fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium about once every half month. During the flowering period, spray a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution twice. No fertilizing is needed in midsummer and winter.
Soil
It likes fertile, loose, well-drained sandy loam.
Propagation Methods
Two propagation methods can be used: root division and cuttings. Root division is generally carried out in March and April each year, selecting 2-3 year old seedlings for division and planting. The most common is cutting propagation: select healthy one-year-old branches as cuttings, cut them into sections of three nodes each and insert them into plain soil to a depth of about 23 cm. Keep them shaded and moist, and they will root in about two months.