How to grow Dracaena fragrans hydroponically? Detailed growing methods and tips

1. Watering amount

Dracaena fragrans is a plant from tropical regions, and it can withstand overly dry environments. In daily watering, you should not water too much, otherwise it will cause Dracaena fragrans to rot. After watering thoroughly, you can water once every 10 days.

2. Water according to actual conditions

Because everyone grows Dracaena fragrans in a different environment, there is no set watering schedule, so watering itself is inherently irregular. We should often observe the condition of the soil. If it is too dry, you can water less; if it is too wet, you can temporarily stop watering.

3. Water quality for watering

Not only Dracaena fragrans, but all plants are not recommended to be watered directly with tap water. Tap water is also called "hard water." Watering plants with hard water for a long time can easily cause the plants to turn yellow and the leaves to fall off. You can use well water, or rice-washing water, and so on instead of tap water to water the plants.

4. Winter watering

Dracaena fragrans goes dormant in winter. During dormancy it will not absorb a large amount of water, so its watering amount should be controlled. You can water once every ten-plus days, and it is best to keep the soil relatively dry, so it can safely go through dormancy.

Now everyone knows how to water Dracaena fragrans. In fact, Dracaena fragrans can also be grown hydroponically. Below, let us learn how to grow Dracaena fragrans hydroponically.

How to grow Ficus elastica 'Black Prince'? What are the growing methods and precautions for Dracaena fragrans?

?`?.??.?''ˉ`?Related recommendations:

?African jasmine ?Rockery bonsai ?Vine string flower ?Hydroponic spider plant

?`?.??.?′′ˉ`?Green plants. This article comes from [Decoration Information]

The leaves of Dracaena fragrans are glossy green. It can not only decorate the interior well, but also has a great effect on air purification. Shiny, emerald-green plants also make people feel happy when they look at them. Therefore, homes cannot do without the decoration of green plants. Dracaena fragrans is a relatively common foliage plant, with an elegant and neat plant shape, and colorful leaf shapes and colors. It is an excellent foliage plant for modern interior decoration. Let's follow the editor to learn more about Dracaena fragrans specifically.

[Introduction to Dracaena fragrans]


Dracaena fragrans is also called the mule sugarcane tree. It mainly likes to grow in tropical regions. It is mainly found in Africa and southern Asia. The tree shape of Dracaena fragrans is very robust, and the leaf color is colorful, bright and beautiful. The plant shape is elegant and neat, and the leaf shape and colors are varied. It is an excellent plant for decorating interiors. It can also secrete a light fragrance, which people call the fragrant Dracaena fragrans. The stem of Dracaena fragrans can secrete bright red resin, which is called "dragon's blood," and the good name of Dracaena fragrans comes from this.

[Growing methods for Dracaena fragrans]


First: Soil.Dracaena fragrans likes loose, fertile, well-aerated sandy soil. You can also add an appropriate amount of organic fertilizer and ferrous sulfate to the nutrient soil. This is more conducive to its growth. You can also mix leaf mold and some sandy soil for cultivation.
Second: Watering.Dracaena fragrans grows in tropical regions, so its drought resistance is very good. It is not suitable to water too much. Too much may cause the trunk to rot and the roots to rot. In order to maintain normal moisture, you can water once about every 10 days.


Third: Light.Dracaena fragrans is not afraid of sunlight. But it still needs to avoid exposure to the scorching summer sun. Dracaena fragrans likes both warm, humid conditions and a sunny environment. With sufficient light, its colors become more brilliant, and the colors will also be more varied.
Fourth: Temperature.Dracaena fragrans is not cold-tolerant. In winter, the temperature of its growing environment is best at around 15°C, with a minimum temperature of 5~10°C. If the temperature is too low, due to insufficient water absorption by the roots, yellow-brown patches will appear at the leaf tips and leaf edges.


Fifth: Fertilizing.Dracaena fragrans should be fertilized with thin fertilizer. When fertilizing, apply less nitrogen fertilizer and more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. But for any plant, it is best to avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise Dracaena fragrans will show unclear golden-yellow leaf markings. In winter, which is a dormant period, fertilizing should be stopped.
Sixth: PestsDracaena fragrans has relatively few pests and diseases. If affected by pests and diseases, you can first spray insecticide on the plant stems, then cover with plastic paper to suffocate the eggs or larvae. You can also peel back part of the bark, pick out the pests, and then spray medicine to prevent spread.

[Precautions for Dracaena fragrans]


First:Dracaena fragrans likes warmth and fears severe cold. It likes light but fears exposure to the scorching sun. It is most suitable for growing in a warm but not extremely hot environment. Spring, summer, and autumn are the vigorous growing seasons for Dracaena fragrans. During this period, there must be sufficient sunlight and moisture.
Second:During the winter dormant period, fertilizing should be stopped and watering controlled. Generally, it overwinters indoors, and you can water once every ten days to half a month. If there is no sunlight for a long time, you can turn on lights at night for artificial supplementary lighting to ensure the leaves remain attractive.



Conclusion:It is an excellent foliage plant for modern interior decoration and can accent a study, living room, and bedroom. A good pot of Dracaena fragrans plays a very good role in decorating and accenting the environment, but caring for Dracaena fragrans well also requires skill. I hope the above content can help everyone.

▓ Recommended reading

?How to grow water lilies ?How to grow Anthurium?Hydroponic tulips?Poppy cultivation?How to grow lilies
?Hydroponic tulips ?Agave pictures?How to grow water lilies?Iris pictures?Ficus elastica 'Black Prince'

Hydroponic flower growing techniques

Soilless cultivation method for Pachira aquatica

Pachira aquatica has an elegant posture, a majestic leaf crown, and emerald-green leaves. Placed in a family living room, it is both elegant and generous, and also lovable.

Pachira aquatica is a perennial evergreen shrub, native to the Malay Peninsula and the Nanyang Archipelago area. In recent years, through cultivation and selection, it has widely entered urban and rural households in our country. For home cultivation, based on its living habits of liking high temperature and high humidity, and not tolerating frost, cold, or dryness, focus on grasping the following four points:

First, pay attention to sunlight. Pachira aquatica likes high temperature, humidity, and sunlight, and cannot be shaded for a long time. Therefore, during maintenance and management, it should be placed in a sunny spot indoors. When placing it, the leaf surface must face the sunlight. Otherwise, because the leaves tend toward the light, the entire branches and leaves will twist. In addition, every 3 to 5 days, use a spray bottle to spray water on the leaves once. This not only helps photosynthesis proceed, but also makes the branches and leaves look more attractive.

Hydroponic method for Catharanthus roseus

Apocynaceae, Catharanthus genus, also known as five-petal plum.

Biological characteristics: Catharanthus roseus is native to eastern Africa. It likes a warm, slightly dry, and sunny environment. The suitable growth temperature is 18~24°C from March to July, and 13~18°C from September to March of the following year. The winter temperature should not be lower than 10°C.

Catharanthus roseus dislikes moisture and fears waterlogging. The pot soil should not be watered too much, as excessive moisture affects growth and development. Especially for plants overwintering indoors, watering should be strictly controlled, and it is better to keep them dry, otherwise they are very likely to freeze. For open-field cultivation, during heavy summer showers, pay attention to timely drainage to avoid waterlogging causing the entire patch to die.

Catharanthus roseus is a light-loving plant. During the growing period, there must be sufficient sunlight, so the leaves are deep green and glossy and the flowers are brightly colored. If it grows in a shaded place for a long time, the leaves turn yellow and fall.

It is suitable for fertile and well-drained loam soil, and tolerates poor soil, but must absolutely avoid alkaline soil. Compacted, poorly aerated clay soil results in poor plant growth, yellowing leaves, and no flowering.

Propagation methods: Commonly use sowing, cuttings, and propagation.

Cultivation management: When the seedlings have 3 pairs of true leaves, transplant them into 10 cm pots, with 3 plants per pot. When the seedlings are 7~8 cm tall, pinch once, and later pinch 2 more times to encourage more branching and more flowering. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month, or use 15-15-30 "Huiyou" special fertilizer for potted flowers. For pot culture or flowerbed planting after removing from pots, flowering lasts from late May to early November, more than 5 months. During the flowering period, remove spent flowers at any time to prevent them from molding and affecting plant growth and ornamental value. August to October is the seed collection period for Catharanthus roseus. Seeds should be collected as they mature to avoid seed loss.

Pest and disease control: Leaf rot, rust, and root-knot nematodes are common. For leaf rot, spray with 65% zineb wettable powder at 500 times dilution. For rust, spray with 50% carboxin wettable powder at 2000 times dilution. For root-knot nematodes, spray with 80% DBCP emulsifiable concentrate at 50 times dilution for control.

Hydroponic method for Euphorbia tirucalli

Euphorbiaceae, Euphorbia genus, also known as triangular spurge. Native to South Africa.

Characteristics

Euphorbia tirucalli is a perennial succulent plant. The stem is upright, 3~4-angled, dark green, with irregular beautiful gray-green markings in the center of the stem. The edges of the angles have tooth-like protrusions, and obovate leaves grow at the protrusions. It has many branches, all vertical and upward, forming a unique plant shape. The whole plant contains repeated milky sap. Euphorbia tirucalli has a peculiar shape and is rich in exotic flavor. It is a fine product for greening and decoration on several tables.

Habits

Euphorbia tirucalli likes semi-shade, but requires sufficient scattered light. It can tolerate low temperatures of 5 degrees. Euphorbia tirucalli likes dryness and avoids long-term moisture, yet it is very suitable for hydroponic conditions.

Propagation

Euphorbia tirucalli is usually propagated by cuttings. From May to September, take branches about 10 cm from the mother plant as cuttings for propagation. The cut cuttings should not be inserted immediately, as inserting immediately will cause the cut to rot and lead to failure of the cutting. The cut of Euphorbia tirucalli will exude milky sap. When cutting, it should be dipped in plant ash or carbon powder, and dried in a cool place for several days. After the cut is fully dry, carry out the cutting, and it will root very easily.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: If scale insects occur, besides moving it to a ventilated and well-lit place, you can brush off the scale insects with a toothbrush, then spray with 250 times diluted washing powder solution to kill them.

2: The white milky sap in the stem of Euphorbia tirucalli is toxic. Especially be careful not to get it into the eyes.

Methods for obtaining hydroponic materials

Cuttings and root washing. Cut branches should first be dried in a cool, ventilated place for several days. After the cut is dry, insert them into water, otherwise they will rot. After one month, new roots can grow.

Hydroponic method for Reineckea carnea

Reineckea carnea, also known as Guanyin grass, is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the Liliaceae family, Reineckea genus. The leaves are clustered, broadly linear, with the midrib sunken and the tip gradually pointed, 15 to 40 cm long; the stem is creeping and rhizomatous, rooting at the nodes; the flowering period is September to October, the flowers are light purple, upright, in terminal spike inflorescences about 6 cm long; the fruit is bright red and spherical; it is native to the southwest region of our country, likes warm and humid environments, is relatively cold-tolerant and shade-tolerant, has low soil requirements, and is highly adaptable. Because Reineckea carnea has a beautiful plant shape and verdant leaf color, if we use its growth habit of cold tolerance and shade tolerance and put it into various goldfish bowls or other glass vessels for hydroponic cultivation, then place it on a bar counter or coffee table, with water in the bowl, stones in the water, and roots among the stones, clearly visible and mutually revealing, it can be regarded as a refined and elegant work of art. Below, its cultivation method is introduced.

1. Material selection. Select plants with deep green leaf color, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases. Carefully dig them out of the soil with a shovel and wash the roots clean. During digging, be careful to dig as deep as possible and bring as much soil as possible. There are two purposes for this: first, to avoid damaging the roots, which is beneficial for hydroponic cultivation and growth; second, because water is transparent, complete roots can display a unique beauty in the water.

2. Stone pressing. Select pebbles or Yuhua stones used for paving garden paths, wash them clean, first spread a layer on the bottom of the glass jar, place Reineckea carnea upright on the stones, then use stones to press its roots firmly so it does not fall over, and pour clean water into the glass vessel until the entire root system is completely submerged. The transparency of the water determines that stone pressing should also have a certain aesthetic technique. The author can design it through their own creativity to highlight individuality.

3. Management. Because the roots of Reineckea carnea are soaked in water for a long time, the water is prone to developing an odor over time, so water should be changed frequently, preferably once a week. As for fertilizing, regularly drip a few drops of nutrient solution or potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution. Reineckea carnea is relatively shade-tolerant, and 1 to 2 hours of fluorescent lamp illumination each evening can meet its photosynthesis needs.

Hydroponic method for Cyclamen

Select 1-year-old to 3-year-old Cyclamen plants with no pests or diseases, vigorous growth, and buds ready to open. It is best to use soilless cultivation substrates such as perlite, vermiculite, and sawdust. After changing the environment, they will not damage roots, will not need slowing down, and will adapt quickly. Hydroponic containers are simple and economical, and in daily life can serve to reuse waste. Any container that can hold water, such as fish tanks, teacups, beverage boxes, wine bottles, and vases, is acceptable; transparent containers are best, as roots, stems, leaves, flowers, and fruits can all be fully viewed. No matter what container is used, its size, height, color, and so on must be coordinated with the Cyclamen plant, so that the exquisite, crystal-clear, and elegant charm of hydroponic Cyclamen can be displayed.

Hydroponic time and method. The flowering period of Cyclamen is generally from October to June of the following year, so the hydroponic time is generally from September to April of the following year. Remove the selected Cyclamen plant from the pot, wash the substrate attached to the root system with 20°C warm water, and be careful not to damage the roots. Then place it directly into a previously prepared container, with the water depth level with the root zone, and at most not exceeding 1/3 of the corm, to avoid corm rot. Finally, place it in a suitable indoor position, regularly add water, and add nutrient solution. After two to three months of hydroponic culture, after the flowers fade, take the plant out and plant it in cultivation substrate to spend the summer.

Water quality and water temperature. The water used for hydroponic Cyclamen is best mountain spring water or magnetized water, with clean water quality, not turbid, not precipitating, and containing various trace elements necessary for plants. During the entire hydroponic period, there is no need to change the water. Tap water contains chlorine, which is unfavorable for flower growth, and is also prone to turbidity and precipitation. It must be changed every few days, so it should be avoided as much as possible. The water temperature should be close to the indoor temperature at the time, generally 10°C to 20°C.

Light and indoor temperature. Cyclamen likes a sunny environment. The hydroponic container should be placed on a desktop or windowsill with sufficient indoor sunlight, and not directly on a radiator. The most suitable indoor temperature is 15°C to 20°C, with the maximum not exceeding 25°C and the minimum not lower than 10°C. Adding nutrient solution: hydroponic Cyclamen also needs regular nutrient supplementation during the flowering period. Generally, every 10 days add 50 ml per plant of 1:100 diluted flowering plant nutrient solution. Mountain spring water should also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. If yellow leaves, small leaves, small flowers, and so on are found, after ruling out root rot, an appropriate amount of additional nutrient solution may be added as needed.

Hydroponic Arrhenatherum elatius

Chinese name: Libang grass

Alias: silver-edge grass

Family and genus name: Poaceae

Latin scientific name: Arrhenatherumelatius

Traits: perennial herb

Plant height: 50-100 cm tall

Flowering period: summer (June-August)

Cold tolerance: cold-tolerant (above -5°C)

Shade tolerance: sun-loving

Morphological characteristics: underground stems white and bead-like; aboveground stems clustered and smooth. Leaves clustered, linear-lanceolate, 30 cm long, about 1 cm wide, with yellowish-white edges. Panicle with long stalks, about 50 cm, branched; spikelets with two flowers, the upper flower bisexual or female, the lower one male; flowering period June-July. Native to Europe.

Habits: Extremely robust, cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, not choosy about soil. In midsummer, the aboveground part often withers and goes dormant, then sprouts and grows again in early September.

Propagation and cultivation: Usually divide once every 2-3 years, in spring from March to April or in September after dormancy when new leaves first sprout. Dig up the old plant and separate it. Each plant should preferably have 2-3 new buds and be separated together with the bead-like underground stems. Old plants should be pruned carefully every year. Leaves should not be too long. When the underground stems are exposed, soil should be banked up in time, so the clump is vigorous and beautiful. If too much fertilizer is applied during cultivation or there is excessive nutrient deficiency, the white spots on the leaves will disappear and all turn green, affecting the ornamental effect.

Hydroponic method for Schefflera arboricola~~~~~

Hydroponic Dracaena fragrans: The plants for hydroponic Dracaena fragrans can be obtained by referring to the propagation method above, or directly from soil cultivation. The specific method is as follows:

Root-viewing hydroponics. One week before cultivation, sterilize and disinsect them, and select plants with good appearance for cultivation. If hydroponics is carried out according to the cuttings above (using soil-cultivated material by removing its roots and carrying out rapid propagation to promote rooting), it is best to first put the planting basket into it. When the roots grow 5—6 cm long and have not returned to land, put them into the mutation pool for mutation induction. At the beginning, the nutrient solution concentration should be lower. After the plant adapts to the aquatic growth environment, the concentration can be increased according to the plant, while also reducing oxygen enrichment, and finally stopping oxygen enrichment. When the roots have grown enough to be bottled, they can be bottled!

Ceramsite planting: Before potting, root promotion is the same as for hydroponics. When potting, do not plant the plant too low, as that is not good for the plant's later growth. When the plant's root system grows out of the inner planting pot, it can be sold!

During production, spray a fungicide once every week and spray foliar fertilizer once. For home maintenance, in addition to referring to the product instructions, you should also follow its growth habits, stop fertilizing during the dormant season, and place it in a place with strong sunlight. For ceramsite planting in winter and early spring, use less water. If placed in a dark place for too long, the leaves turn yellow and lack vitality, and the tips of the basal leaves are prone to turning black, as if scalded by boiling water. During the growing season, do not let it lack water.

Dracaena marginata 'Tricolor' aliases: three-color edged Dracaena fragrans, rainbow Dracaena fragrans, striped Cordyline

Family and genus: Agavaceae, Dracaena genus

Morphological characteristics: Evergreen small tree. Stem slender, upright and straight, up to 3 m tall. Leaves 15~60 cm long, 1~2 cm wide, sword-shaped. The green leaves have milky white, yellowish-white, and red stripes. It is a uniquely distinctive variety in the Dracaena genus.

Distribution and habits: Native to Madagascar.

Likes warm, humid environments with bright scattered light. Relatively shade-tolerant, avoids direct strong light. The suitable growth temperature is 18~28 degrees. The overwintering temperature needs to be above 10 degrees.

Propagation method: cuttings

Key points for hydroponics:

1) Water cuttings are easy to root in hydroponics, and the water roots are pure white and highly ornamental. Changing the water is the key to success. Especially when just inserted, changing the water every other day can increase its nutrient content, until the root system grows out. After it adapts to hydroponic cultivation, you can change or add water once a week or once a month according to the season.

2) When the water temperature in summer is above 35 degrees, the root system is prone to rotting. At this time, stop using nutrient solution and only use clean water for cultivation, and increase the frequency of water changes to keep the water quality clear.

3) Place it in a bright indoor location. Generally, change the water once a month in autumn and winter. If using a transparent container for hydroponics, while changing the water, wipe off the substances attached to the vessel with a soft cloth to make it transparent, so that the beauty of the plant's root system can be better displayed. After changing the water, you can drip a few drops of commercially sold nutrient solution into the water or add some potassium dihydrogen phosphate diluted 1000 times, so as to supply the nutrients needed for plant growth. If foliar fertilizer or 1000 times potassium dihydrogen phosphate is sprayed as extra-root topdressing during the growing season, it can grow thicker and stronger.

Can remove: toluene, xylene, benzene, trichloroethylene, formaldehyde

Hydroponic method for Sansevieria

Sansevieria is a perennial herb with creeping rhizomes. Leaves clustered, often 2~6 in a bundle, leaves upright, leathery, thick, with a short tip at the apex, dark green, with light gray-green horizontal stripes, named for the markings resembling tiger skin. Over 80 cm tall, 3~7 cm wide. Flowers in spring and summer, spike inflorescences, small flowers in bundles of 3~8, white or pale green, fragrant.

Sansevieria likes a warm climate. The suitable growth temperature is 20~30 degrees. It is not cold-tolerant. Below 13 degrees it stops growing. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 8 degrees. When the temperature is too low, it often rots from the base, causing the death of the entire plant.

Sansevieria likes light, but in summer exposure to the scorching sun should be prevented. It is very shade-tolerant and can be displayed in a shaded place for a long time.

Sansevieria is a desert plant and can endure harsh environmental conditions.

Propagation usually uses the division method. Division is usually carried out in spring and autumn in combination with removing from the pot. Remove the plant from the pot, use a sharp knife to separate the daughter plants from the mother plant, try to avoid damaging the root system, and let the separated daughter plants carry as many roots as possible. After separation, place the daughter plants in a dark indoor place, prevent rain from falling on them, and control watering to avoid rot at the cut. Only after new leaves grow can they be transferred to normal care.

When propagating Sansevieria in large quantities, the cutting method can be used. Cuttings are carried out from May to July. Select robust and plump leaves, cut them into small sections 5~7 cm long, or use whole leaves for cuttings. The cut leaves should be placed in a dry, cool place for several days. After the cut is dry, insert them straight or obliquely into the medium, with the insertion depth being 1/3 or 1/2 of the section length. After inserting, water thoroughly once. When cutting, remember the top and bottom orientation of the cuttings. If inserted upside down, they will not root. Under conditions of 15~20 degrees, after about one month they will root from the base or grow rhizomes, and gradually grow into new plants. When the young seedlings grow 2~3 leaves, they can be potted for final planting.

Do not add too much water and soak all the roots. Let a small section of root be exposed above the water surface so it can absorb oxygen. After water roots have grown, you can add a little less nutrient solution~~~~In summer, change the water once every three or four days, and in winter once every six or seven days~~~Look at the degree of water turbidity~~~~~~~Generally, woody flowers are relatively difficult to grow hydroponically, so you must be patient~~~~~~~~

Key points for hydroponic Hydrangea macrophylla

Scientific name: Hydrangeamacrophylla

Aliases: hydrangea, douqiu, shade hydrangea, grass hydrangea, ziyang flower

Family and genus: Saxifragaceae, Hydrangea genus

Plant characteristics. Hydrangea macrophylla is native to the Yangtze River basin and provinces south of it in our country. The natural plant height is 1 to 2 m, and the potted height is mostly controlled at 30 to 50 cm. Leaves opposite, obovate or elliptical, with serrated edges. Corymb inflorescences terminal, 20 cm in diameter, nearly spherical, with few and small sexual flowers, and many and large asexual flowers. Flower color varies, initially white, gradually turning blue or pink. Natural flowering period is May to July. It is a deciduous small shrub with emerald-green leaves and brightly colored flowers, with a long ornamental period, and is deeply loved by people.

Ecological Habits: Hydrangea prefers a warm, humid environment and grows best at 18°C to 28°C, with winter temperatures not below 5°C. It does best in partial shade; too much light will scorch and curl the leaves. It prefers loose, fertile soil and has a high water demand, but dislikes waterlogging, and is relatively resistant to harmful gases such as sulfur dioxide.

Common Cultivated Varieties: Hydrangea hortensica: all flowers are sterile, with ovate sepals. Blue-edged hydrangea (V. coerulea Wils): flowers are bisexual, dark blue, with edge flowers blue or white. Hydrangea otaksa (V. otaksa Bailey): flowers are sterile, the inflorescence is large, up to 20 cm in diameter, the leaves are thick, and the round spherical inflorescence is blue or pale red, mostly used in landscaping. Silver hydrangea (V. maculata Wils): has both fertile and sterile flowers, the leaves are narrower and smaller with white edges, grown for its foliage.

Propagation Methods: Hydrangea can be propagated by division, layering, and cuttings.

Cuttings can be taken year-round in a greenhouse. Usually in May to June, in combination with early spring pruning and post-bloom shaping. Select semi-lignified branches free of pests and diseases, each 10 to 15 cm long, keep 2 to 3 nodes and 1 to 2 leaves at the top, and insert them into a seedbed with river sand or vermiculite as the substrate, with appropriate shading. Keep the substrate moist and the air humidity above 80%, and rooting begins in about 18 days. After that, gradually reduce the frequency of misting and increase light, and they can be transplanted in about 1 month.

Cultivation Management: After the cuttings have rooted, they should be potted up promptly. Hydrangea prefers loose, fertile soil with good drainage, usually made from leaf mold, garden soil, and organic fertilizer in a 4:4:2 ratio; for large-scale production, peat, perlite, and organic fertilizer in a 6:2:2 ratio is suitable, and it should be thoroughly sterilized before use.

Fertilization: Hydrangea is a heavy feeder, generally with an organic fertilizer topdressing every half month. In the early growth stage, use more nitrogen fertilizer; during flower bud differentiation and bud formation, use more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. You can also spray the leaves with 0.1% to 0.2% monopotassium phosphate 2 to 3 times. Stop fertilizing after the flower buds show color.

Watering: Hydrangea leaves transpire heavily, so it must be watered promptly; even brief wilting from lack of water can cause dry leaf edges and ruined flowers. Especially in summer, it must be shaded and cooled to reduce transpiration, and air humidity should be kept above 60%. In addition, hydrangea flower color is affected by soil pH, usually blue in acidic conditions and red in alkaline conditions. Therefore, the pH of the water should be determined according to the desired flower color.

Temperature: Hydrangea is not tolerant of high temperatures and requires temperatures between 15°C and 25°C; high temperatures make the plant dwarfed and the flower color faded, reducing quality. After the flower buds color up, keep the temperature at 10°C to 12°C to improve flower color and help preserve freshness.

Light: Hydrangea is shade-tolerant, and direct sunlight can cause sunscald, so shading is needed. Usually 60% shade is required during the growing period, and appropriate shading is also needed after the inflorescence colors up, so as to prevent the flower color from fading and losing its luster.

Pruning: Hydrangea has strong sprouting ability, and many vegetative shoots will sprout from the base of the plant; to reduce nutrient loss, they should be removed promptly. If old branches need to be replaced, healthy vegetative shoots can be chosen as reserve branches. After flowering, cut back promptly, keeping 2 to 3 healthy buds to encourage new shoots.

Flowering Regulation: To make hydrangea bloom for Spring Festival, choose healthy 3- to 5-year-old plants, treat them at 2°C to 4°C for 14 days, then move them into a greenhouse for warming, keeping them at 10°C to 20°C, and they will bloom in 50 to 60 days. Note to ventilate frequently, maintain good light conditions and relatively high air humidity, and apply an organic liquid fertilizer once every half month until flowering.

Pest and Disease Control: Hydrangea has few insect pests, mostly aphids, spider mites, and the like, which can be controlled by spraying systemic pesticides while ensuring good ventilation. Common diseases are mostly leaf diseases, such as white rot, gray mold, and leaf spot, so pesticides should be sprayed regularly for prevention; once disease is found, pesticides must be sprayed promptly, and severely diseased leaves can be removed and burned.

Introduction to Jade Plant

[Aliases] Jingshu, Yanzizhang, Feicuishu, Luodishenggen.

[Scientific name] Crassula arborescens

[Family and genus] Crassulaceae, Crassula.

[Morphology] Evergreen succulent plant, plant height 45-75 cm, stem semi-lignified. Leaves opposite, thick and fleshy, broadly elliptic, entire, 3-5 cm long, 1-3 cm wide, dark green and glossy; after exposure to light, the leaf margins turn red. Horticultural varieties include variegated-leaf and colorful-leaf types.

[Habits] Native to South Africa. It prefers warmth, tolerates drought, likes light, and also tolerates partial shade; it grows best under bright indirect light. It prefers fertile, loose sandy loam with good drainage and aeration.

[Propagation] Cuttings. Both stem cuttings and leaf cuttings root easily, and water propagation also works. Take cuttings from May to September, using a 5-10 cm branch or 1 leaf, insert into plain sandy soil, keep moist, and roots can form after one week.

[Cultivation] Use 2 parts garden soil, 1 part leaf mold, plus an appropriate amount of river sand to make the potting mix. After potting, water the young plants thoroughly and place them in a shaded spot; once established, place them in a bright place, but do not let direct sunlight hit them. In summer, pay attention to coolness and ventilation. To keep the plant full and compact, do not apply too much fertilizer or water normally, and let the potting soil dry out between waterings. In late autumn, bring it indoors for warmth, and the room temperature should be above 7°C. In winter, do not water too much. Repot and change the soil once every spring.

Although the jade plant is easy to propagate, easy to grow, and easy to manage, it is still common for some residents' balcony jade plants to look elegant in spring, summer, and autumn, only to become wilted and colorless after winter, or even become bare. This is mainly because growers only see the easy-to-grow side of the jade plant and ignore its fragile side; after severe cold arrives, they still leave it on an open balcony, letting it suffer from cold wind and freezing, causing frost damage. After frost damage, the fleshy leaves and tender stems of the jade plant begin to show wounds as if scalded by boiling water, then gradually soften, shrivel, and finally fall off; in severe cases, only the bare main stem remains.

Therefore, doing a good job of overwintering balcony potted jade plants is very important, and the following points should be mainly addressed:

1. Move the pot indoors in time. After winter begins, move the jade plant indoors where 7°C to 10°C can be maintained. On warmer days, you can move the jade plant to the balcony around noon to bask in the sun, and still move it indoors at night.

2. Control the dryness and moisture of the potting soil. In winter, keep the potting soil mainly slightly dry, and mist the leaves appropriately to supplement water. Under normal circumstances, there is no need to water the potting soil directly.

3. Move it into a warm shed for insulation. If conditions permit, the pot can be moved into a warm shed; if not, it can also be covered with plastic film, but pay attention to the humidity inside the cover. If too much moisture is found, uncover it promptly for ventilation to prevent leaf rot.

4. If the jade plant has already suffered frost damage due to earlier mistakes in cold protection, do not discard the plant easily. As long as you remove the frost-killed leaves and tender branches and keep the plump main stem, apply fertilizer appropriately the following spring, and the main stem can still sprout new branches and leaves; generally after 1 to 2 years of cultivation, it can develop into a perfect jade plant again.

Jade Plant Hydroponics:

You can choose to take branches from the mother jade plant in spring, summer, or autumn for cuttings; sterilize, disinfect, and treat for pests one week before cutting. After the cuttings are inserted, keep the substrate at a certain moisture level; at the beginning, misting and shading are needed. After the callus tissue below grows out, mist less or not at all, otherwise the leaves are prone to dropping and rot. After the roots grow 2-3 cm, they can be put on the hydroponic seedling bed for hydroponic root induction.

[Uses] Indoor decoration, suitable for accenting halls. Appendix: The related foliage plant Yanzizhang, alias Houye Jingtian (Crassula portulacea), has obovate leaves; its cultivation method is the same as that of the jade plant.

It can also be grown hydroponically without nutrient solution~~~ For example, spider plants grow very well without nutrient solution~ You can also put two compound fertilizer granules in~~~~~ Or soak nutrient soil in water, take the clear liquid on top, and that can also be used as nutrient solution~~~~~ Nutrient solution can be bought at flower shops~~~~~~~~~~

Hydroponic watermelon peel must be done in spring and autumn; hydroponics in winter will definitely die. The leaves of watermelon peel are best inserted in soil; for hydroponics, choose ones with roots. At the beginning, change the water frequently; after roots grow, you can add nutrient solution~~~~~~~~~~~~

My parlor palm has already grown very well, thank you to the original poster! I am lazy, and there is another way to reduce the number of water changes: add 3 drops of Amway Loxin to the water. It works very well, but each bottle has a different amount of water, so everyone should start with a small amount and figure it out slowly.

Hydroponic He Shou Wu

Let me pour a little cold water on this:

1. Not all flowers can be grown hydroponically

2. It is not true that washing the roots of originally soil-grown flowers and putting them in water is hydroponics, and that they will all survive

3. Raising fish in the water and flower roots compete for oxygen, hurting both; fish excrement quickly spoils the water, easily causing root rot, fish illness, and only an advertising effect.

4. Light passing through the glass bottle triggers algae growth, competing for oxygen, covering the surface of flower roots and suffocating the roots

5. Fibrous roots crowded together in water are prone to oxygen deficiency, blackening, and death.

Hydroponic peace lily

Let me also talk about the production process of hydroponic products at my base:

Select superior mother plants----remove from pots and rinse roots----cut roots or cut the base----disinfect and treat for rooting----plant in planting cups (expanded clay planting)----induce roots in a rooting bed----acclimate in a hydroponic bed----harden off for sale (the management during this period is computer-assisted)

True hydroponic flowers are not as simple as washing roots and soaking them in water. The cultivation process of hydroponic flowers is very complex, going through a series of processes such as washing roots---trimming roots----disinfecting----planting----root induction----root attraction, and the time required ranges from 10 or 20 days to half a year.