How to Save Water Bamboo When Its Leaves Turn Yellow? Causes and Solutions

The originally greenish young leaves have faded in color and turned yellow or pale green, while the older leaves remain relatively normal or gradually change from green to yellow;

Cause analysis:

Actually this situation is not common, and yellowing leaves caused by nutrient deficiency is chronic. Flower enthusiasts can observe the condition of the leaves. If the yellowing is rapid, then it is not due to nutrient deficiency, and do not fertilize blindly, because if the roots have problems, fertilizing will worsen the rot.

Solutions:

If it is confirmed that the yellowing leaves are caused by nutrient deficiency, we can normally fertilize with small frequent meals and add some alum water at the appropriate time. (Note: Water bamboo is a foliage plant, so fertilizer should be mainly nitrogen-based)

Identification and Prevention of Cold Damage and Freeze Damage in Ornamental Trees and Flowers

Potted or ground-planted ornamental trees and flowers, when suddenly hit by a cold wave moving south in late autumn or early winter, or by the sudden arrival of the "first frost", can easily suffer cold damage or freeze damage; in spring when potted flowers are moved outdoors or when the covering film is removed from protected cultivation of ornamental trees and flowers, suddenly encountering a belated "late frost" or "late spring cold" can also very likely cause the plants to suffer cold damage or freeze damage again. Whether it is large-scale commercial cultivation or the small number of potted plants kept by flower enthusiasts, prevention of cold damage must be taken highly seriously, otherwise it will bring you serious losses and long-lasting "regret".

Cold damage is a physiological disease, not an infectious disease induced by the harm of pathogenic bacteria. It generally refers to damage caused by low temperatures directly acting on the plant, including cold injury and freeze injury, and does not include indirect winter drought, frost heaving, and other winter damage.

Winter drought and frost heaving are indirect damage caused by low temperatures. Winter drought refers to: some evergreen flowers, under certain special weather conditions in winter, such as prolonged and strong wind or a not-too-cold but very sunny day, have a relatively high transpiration rate, but because the soil temperature is low, the roots absorb water slowly, and the water in the plant body cannot maintain a normal balance, causing leaves and other tissues to dehydrate and dry out; in essence, it is a type of drought damage; for example, the leaves of banksia rose, jasmine, etc. suddenly dry up on dry cold sunny days. Frost heaving refers to: when meltwater seeps into the soil and freezes again, some plants, especially seedlings or herbaceous flowers, are often lifted up together with the frozen soil, thus destroying the close contact between the root system and the soil, and even tearing the root mass apart; before the root system has time to recover, it encounters weather conditions that promote strong transpiration, causing the plant to wither and die. For example, wintersweet planted in flower pots, placed in a very cold and shaded place in winter, because the potting soil is relatively wet and freezes, the root ball is lifted up and separated from the pot wall. If this is not discovered in time and it is not replanted properly, or moved to a warmer environment, the roots may very likely become exposed, lose water, and necrose, ultimately leading to the death of the plant.

I. Types and Causes of Cold Damage

Because the causes of cold damage differ, the harm caused also varies. The differences between cold damage and general infectious diseases are: first, it is not contagious, and no pathogens appear in the damaged parts; second, the same kind of ornamental tree or flower placed in the same environment often shows symptoms overnight at the same time, with tender shoots and new leaves being the most severely affected; third, it occurs under low temperature or particularly cold weather conditions, and the degree of harm is related to the species of ornamental tree or flower, the duration of low temperature, the speed of temperature recovery, and the lower limit of the low temperature.

1. Causes of cold injury

Some ornamental plants native to tropical or subtropical regions suffer severe damage to or death of their tissue structure after being affected by low temperatures above freezing (0°C~5°C or somewhat higher) for several days or even just a few hours. This kind of cold damage, which does not reach the degree of freezing inside the tissues, is called "cold injury" and is damage formed by the disturbance and disruption of normal intracellular metabolism, which tends toward disorder and produces toxic substances. Different physiological activities and metabolic processes of plants each have their own maximum, minimum, and optimum temperatures. When the environmental temperature changes, their physiological activities and metabolic processes are all affected differently; if it exceeds a certain range, it will destroy the coordinated relationships among them and produce large amounts of substances that would not be produced and accumulated under normal conditions. Further research found that under cold injury conditions, the rate of protein hydrolysis increases by 4~9 times compared with normal conditions; nucleic acid metabolism is also severely disturbed; in addition, temperature decrease also affects the oxidative activity of sensitive mitochondrial membranes in plant cells.

From this it can be seen: first, the ornamental plant species that suffer cold injury are usually plants native to tropical or subtropical regions; second, the temperature condition for cold injury is damage from low temperatures above freezing; third, the time required to cause cold injury varies, usually several days, or even just a few hours. Generally in late autumn and early winter or early spring, sudden changes in temperature are most likely to cause cold injury in flowering and foliage ornamental plants native to tropical or subtropical regions. It usually manifests as overly tender new shoots and young leaves becoming "purple", "browning", "yellowing", "wilting", "necrosis", etc. For example, frost-struck Salvia splendens, Tradescantia, Kalanchoe, Bougainvillea, purple bamboo leaf, etc., all belong to this category.

2. Causes of freeze injury

Freeze injury refers to damage caused by ice formation inside the tissues of ornamental plants when they are in an environment below 0°C, or encounter prolonged extreme low temperatures.

There are two situations in which ice crystals appear inside plant tissues: one is freezing inside the cells, and the other is freezing between the cells. The former refers to when plant tissues freeze very quickly, ice crystals form in the vacuoles and protoplasm, destroying the structure of the protoplasm and causing protein denaturation. Some membranes within the protoplasm are also punctured, usually leading to the death of the tissue, so the result of this kind of "freeze injury" is very severe and irreversible. For example, when a cold wave suddenly moved south in the north in early winter, causing a large temperature drop in a short time, the winter of 2004 caused a large number of foliage plants in southern China to die from freeze injury; in early December 2005, the temperature in the Hefei area suddenly dropped from 12°C~15°C to -3°C~-5°C, causing severe freezing of the leaves and young stems of many ground-planted Magnoliaceae ornamental trees, such as Manglietia guinanensis, Parakmeria yunnanensis, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia ruyuanensis, etc. The latter refers to when, as the environmental temperature gradually decreases, ice crystals gradually form inside plant tissues. Because the concentration of the solution in the intercellular spaces is generally lower than that of the protoplasm and vacuolar sap, when the cooling rate is not too fast, the water in the intercellular spaces reaches the freezing point and freezes before the interior of the cells. The formation of ice crystals also causes water in the protoplast to move outward, thereby causing concentration of the cell sap, dehydration of the protoplasm, protein precipitation, cell membrane denaturation, and cell wall rupture; when ice crystals form in the intercellular spaces, whether the cell tissue is killed depends on the freezing tolerance of the cells and the speed and frequency of freezing and thawing; one of the mechanisms of freeze injury is protoplasmic dehydration, and its consequences are the same as dehydration under drought conditions, that is, due to mechanical stress produced by deformation of the cell wall, the structure of the protoplasm suffers irreversible damage; after the cell sap is concentrated, the concentrations of salt ions and organic acids increase, which may also be toxic to the protoplasm. The severity of freeze injury is related to the speed of freezing; the faster the freezing, the more severe the damage, because when freezing is fast, the possibility of intracellular freezing is greater; if freezing is limited to the intercellular spaces, then the faster the freezing, the faster the cells lose water and shrink, and the greater the destructive effect of the resulting mechanical stress. The severe consequences of freeze injury are also related to the thawing speed of the frozen tissue. Generally, in the case of intracellular freezing, tissue necrosis inevitably occurs, regardless of the thawing speed of the ice; while in the case of intercellular freezing, the faster the thawing, the greater the damage, because the cell wall rapidly absorbs the water produced by melting ice and expands, but the protoplasm attached to the cell wall absorbs water more slowly, so it is torn and damaged. For example, after severe freezing of red bell flower and Bougainvillea, because the temperature rose rapidly, the bark was torn and the plants died.

II. Specific Manifestations of Cold Damage in Ornamental Plants

1. Xylem blackening

Among the various tissues of mature branches of woody flowers, the cambium is the most cold-resistant, followed by the phloem, while the xylem and pith are the least cold-resistant. Therefore, mild freeze injury only shows discoloration of the pith, moderate freeze injury shows discoloration of the xylem, and only severe freeze injury will freeze and damage the phloem. If the cambium in the stem or branch has discolored, it will lose its ability to recover, possibly leading to the death of the entire plant.

2. Trunk bark cracking and necrosis

Some ornamental tree and flower species native to tropical and south subtropical regions with relatively high water content in the trunk bark, such as Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, red bell flower, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon, Pachira aquatica, Euphorbia milii var. splendens, Ficus 'Golden Coin', etc. When the environmental temperature drops to around -3°C, not only will the leaves and branches freeze to death, but even the outer bark of the stem, especially the root collar area, may crack and necrose due to water in the tissues forming ice crystals and cold expansion and heat contraction, and even the whole plant may die.

Cold injury in Michelia alba

Cold injury in purple bamboo grass


Cold injury in Anthurium

Cold injury in Alocasia

Cold injury in Kalanchoe

Cold injury in Golden Emperor

Freeze injury in Euphorbia

3. Color changes in tender shoots and new leaves
First is "yellowing". In cold seasons, because the temperature is too low, the leaves of some flowers that require relatively high overwintering temperatures will also turn yellow due to cold damage, or even fall off, such as Anthurium, spider plant types, trailing pothos, Peperomia 'Watermelon', etc.; second is "whitening". For example, spider plant, Hippeastrum, Tradescantia zebrina, etc. placed or planted outdoors, when encountering lower temperatures, the tender shoots and new leaves lose their original luster and show abnormal changes of "whitening and loss of green"; third is "scorching". The tender shoots and new leaves of some ornamental plants, due to frost damage and other harm, show "scorching" of new leaves, such as spider plant, Clivia, Fatsia japonica, etc.; fourth is "purpling". Some ornamental plants, when encountering low temperatures, show "purpling and browning" at the leaf tips or leaf margins, such as Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Cymbidium sinense, Camellia (new leaves), etc.
4. New shoots and tender leaves look as if scalded by boiling water
Some ornamental plants with relatively high water content in leaves, new shoots, or stems, including some succulents, such as pothos, Fagraea ceilanica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Rieger begonia, Aptenia cordifolia, Clivia, Alocasia, Aloe, Kalanchoe, Rhapis excelsa, Phoenix canariensis (seedlings), Washingtonia, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Spathiphyllum 'Green Giant', etc., when the environmental temperature suddenly drops from 5°C~8°C to below -3°C~-5°C and lasts for a relatively long time, their newly sprouted tender branches and leaves look as if scalded by boiling water or cooked, all dying in a short time, and the trunk bark cracks and peels off.
5. Browning, withering, and necrosis of new shoots and tender leaves
Some underdeveloped new shoots and tender leaves of ornamental plants, such as Ficus 'Golden Coin', Mahonia fortunei, Fatsia japonica, Nerium oleander, Pachira aquatica, Cycas, etc., look as if scorched by fire, very unsightly.
6. Plant body necrosis and hollowing
Generally, succulents, after encountering freeze injury, often become shriveled and hollow, with the whole plant necrosing. Such as Echinopsis, cactus, Euphorbia, three-angled cactus, etc.

III. Prevention and Treatment of Cold Damage in Ornamental Plants

1. Prevention of cold damage in ornamental plants
(1) Choose relatively cold-resistant flower species
Flower enthusiasts should choose foliage, flowering, or fruiting ornamental tree and flower species according to the lowest temperature in normal years in your area or the highest room temperature that can be maintained at home in winter (generally 5°C~6°C); in ordinary homes in the Yangtze River basin, under conditions without heating equipment, you can choose Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, jasmine, Michelia alba, Clivia, Belgian azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, Anthurium, Cycas, etc., and should not choose Codiaeum variegatum, Calathea, Fittonia, Desert rose, Oxalis, Polyscias, Phalaenopsis, Dieffenbachia 'Marianne', Syngonium, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, etc.
(2) Carry out cold resistance training in stages
Generally, potted Pinus parviflora, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus densiflora, Pinus taiwanensis, papaya, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, plum blossom, Camellia, Ginkgo, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis, etc., can be considered for overwintering in the ground. It is best to wait until their growth for the year has ended, then carry out freeze resistance training in several stages. The first stage is 0°C~6°C, requiring several days to several weeks, with sufficient light. For evergreens, the starch in the leaves can be converted into sugar, and large vacuoles can divide into several small vacuoles. Some fat-storing species can convert starch into fat; the second stage is -3°C~-5°C, in which the fine structures and enzymes in the protoplasm are reorganized so that the cells can tolerate dehydration caused by freezing; the third stage is between -10°C~-15°C, enabling the protoplasm to acquire stronger freezing tolerance, thereby surviving the cold winter. Some less cold-resistant succulent plants, such as Cleistocactus, Haworthia, Sedum, Graptopetalum, etc., if kept on a balcony or outdoors for a long time with a gradual adaptation process, can increase from resisting low temperatures of 0°C to resisting low temperatures of -5°C~-7°C.



Freeze injury in Hippeastrum

Freeze injury in Camellia

Freeze injury in Areca palm

Freeze injury in Royal palm

Freeze injury in Aloe

Freeze injury in Schefflera

Freeze injury in Philodendron

Freeze injury in Bougainvillea

Freeze injury in Clivia

Freeze injury in kumquat

Freeze injury in Phalaenopsis

Freeze injury in Phoenix roebelenii

Freeze injury in banana

Freeze injury in Osmanthus

Freeze injury in Rhapis excelsa

Freeze injury in Monstera

Freeze injury in Cycas

Freeze injury in Fatsia japonica


Freeze injury in red bell flower

Freeze injury in Nerium oleander

Freeze injury in Caryota

Freeze injury in Licuala

Freeze injury in Pachira aquatica

Trunk freeze injury in Cycas

(3) Strengthen cold-resistant cultivation management

After mid-autumn, control the water and fertilizer supply for potted ornamental plants, appropriately increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, promote lignification of branches and full development of tissues, and enhance their cold resistance, for example, by watering or spraying a 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution. Pruning in winter or manually removing some leaves (such as Michelia alba) to reduce the transpiration area can produce good results in preventing low-temperature damage. Strengthen pest and disease control, promote robust plant growth, and prevent the appearance of autumn shoots or tender shoots.

(4) Carry out freeze protection for the tree body

For tall ground-planted Camellia, Osmanthus, Michelia, Magnolia grandiflora, Phoenix canariensis, Cycas, etc., the main trunk can be bound with straw rope or film, the trunk can be whitewashed or the crown sprayed white (7%~10% lime milk); the crown can be covered and bound with plastic film, or sprayed with wax preparations or liquid plastic, all of which can provide a certain freeze protection effect.

(5) Artificial heating to drive away cold

For potted plants placed in greenhouses, during particularly cold weather, electric heaters or coal stoves can be used inside the greenhouse for heating, especially at 5~6 o'clock in the morning, the coldest time of the day, when heating must be emphasized; outside the greenhouse, cover with straw curtains or felt blankets for insulation. In ordinary homes, double-layer plastic bags can be placed over the plants; for potted flowers placed indoors, if conditions permit, the air conditioner can be turned on from about 6 a.m. to about 10 p.m. to prevent Anthurium, Calathea, Clivia, Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium hybridum, etc. from suffering cold injury. For ground-planted ornamental trees and flowers such as Camellia, Osmanthus, Michelia, etc., spraying water on the crown at dawn when frost is about to occur or igniting frost prevention smoke agents before morning frost can effectively prevent “radiation frost".

(6) Delay sprouting to prevent late frost

Using growth regulators or other methods to prolong plant dormancy and delay sprouting can avoid frost damage caused by early spring cold wave attacks. For example, spraying B9, ethephon, maleic hydrazide, potassium naphthaleneacetate (250mg/kg~500mg/kg), or maleic hydrazide (0.1%~0.2%) solution on ground-planted flowers before budding or in late autumn all have relatively good effects. If potted flowers encounter "late frost" after being moved outdoors, they can be covered with large double-layer plastic film and uncovered after the daytime temperature rises.

2. Treatment of cold damage in ornamental plants

(1) Reasonable pruning

For plants that have suffered cold damage, reasonable pruning measures should be taken, and heavy pruning should not be carried out, otherwise harmful side effects will occur. So how should the amount of pruning be properly controlled? It is necessary both to cut the damaged organs back to healthy parts to promote branch renewal and growth, and to ensure the relative balance between aboveground and underground organs. Generally, pruning immediately after damage can retain 1cm~2cm of the damaged branch portion to prevent the healthy branch portion from drying and shrinking further downward; if pruning is done after spring begins, it can be cut back to healthy parts to facilitate wound healing; practice has proved that properly pruned damaged plants recover faster than heavily pruned or unpruned plants.

For general evergreen potted woody flowers and foliage plants, all dead parts should be cut off in time, and they should be moved to a relatively warm environment.

(2) Protect and repair wounds

For thick large plants with freeze injury only to a local part of the trunk base (the northwest side), the necrotic part can be scraped away, and after applying a wound healing agent, it can be wrapped and protected with film to create a relatively warm micro-environment for it; for some damaged bonsai plants, they can be remedied by bridge grafting or approach grafting to replace the roots.

(3) Strengthen pest and disease control

After ornamental plants suffer low-temperature damage, because their tree vigor is relatively weak, they are extremely susceptible to pests and diseases. In combination with preventing and treating freeze injury, chemical agents can be applied. Among them, fungicide plus moisture-retaining adhesive has the best effect, followed by fungicide plus high-fat film; both are better than simple fungicide or whitewash. Because the main agent fungicide can only perform surface disinfection and sterilization, while the auxiliary agents moisture-retaining adhesive and high-fat film not only play a moisture-retaining role but also a warming role. All of these are beneficial to the formation of callus tissue in frost-cracked bark, thereby promoting the healing of freeze damage.

(4) Fertilize cautiously

For plants that have suffered freeze injury, high-concentration chemical fertilizers should not be applied immediately after overwintering. Instead, wait until the temperature rises and the root system recovers its absorption function, then spray or water with low-concentration liquid fertilizer. For example, 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.3% urea solution can be alternately sprayed or watered, and the effects are all very good.

What Are the Advantages of Hydroponic Flowers? What Are the Common Hydroponic Flower Plants?

Flower Bonsai Network Introduction: Hydroponic flowers are clean and hygienic, and are a way many people like to grow flowers. Today, the editor of Flower Bonsai Network shares with you an article about the advantages of hydroponic flowers. Let's take a look.

Hydroponic flowers are a common modern form of flower care, and they have many advantages, which is why many people like them. So, what are the advantages of hydroponic flowers?

Hydroponic flowers have unique ornamental value

Compared with soil-cultured flowers, hydroponic flowers have unique ornamental value. In addition to appreciating the stems, leaves, and flowers of the plant, hydroponic plants can also display their root systems, especially beautifully shaped roots, with all kinds of colors and forms, giving them excellent ornamental value as well.

Second, from the perspective of ornamental value, hydroponic flowers appear more elegant and light. Soil-cultured flowers, because of the flower pot plus soil, look relatively bulky overall, and the whole feel appears dull, while hydroponic flowers are different. Placing hydroponic flowers in an office or on furniture in a room makes the feeling more fresh.

Hydroponic flowers have a simple care routine

Hydroponic flowers actually simplify the flower-growing process. The operation of soil-cultured flowers is still relatively cumbersome, and many people, when growing flowers, cannot master the watering method well, which leads to various problems in growing flowers. But with hydroponic flowers, there is no need to worry about watering time and frequency, and directly growing them in water is relatively simple to operate.

Basically, when growing hydroponic flowers, it is enough to change the water regularly. Even if you need to go out, the growth of hydroponic flowers will not be greatly affected.

Hydroponic flowers save space

Actually, hydroponic flowers have very simple requirements for containers. Even a glass cup or a small vase can be used for hydroponics, which can greatly save space. Because the space occupied is small, they can also be placed on an office desk or next to a computer, expanding the beautification space for flowers.

Hydroponic plants actually have so many benefits?

There are many benefits to growing hydroponic plants indoors. Everyone, take action quickly!

1. Purify the air and benefit health.

Scientific research shows that plants can absorb harmful gases and attach them to the leaf surface, and especially the root systems of hydroponic plants have stronger adsorption capacity. They can incorporate harmful gases and dust into their metabolic processes, and detoxify them during material transformation. Because of their plant characteristics and their ability to combine with minerals, hydroponic plants have a particularly good filtration effect on improving indoor air, specifically including:

(1) Adsorbing obvious harmful substances: Hydroponic plants adsorb harmful substances mainly through absorption by their roots. Some plant species can remove up to 90% of formaldehyde, benzene, or carbon monoxide from indoors.
(2) Absorbing nicotine: Today, people have come to recognize which plant best counteracts which harmful substance. For example, pothos (Epipremnum aureum) can clean the air well in a room where people smoke, because its leaves and roots can noticeably absorb and fix more nicotine.
(3) Absorbing formaldehyde: The weeping fig (Ficus benjamina) can also absorb large amounts of this toxic gas that clings to its leaves, and within 1-2 days it can bring 90% of the harmful substance into its metabolic process, thereby producing sugars, energy and other clean natural substances.

2. Clean and hygienic, with few pests and diseases.

Hydroponic plants eliminate the trouble of finding soil and managing various potting mixes when preparing soil-based pots, and they suit the high-efficiency, fast-paced characteristics of modern society.

3. Releasing moisture and maintaining air humidity.

If an office can be largely greened, you will often no longer need artificial air conditioning. Large areas of hydroponic plants are the most effective temperature regulators, and they help form ecologically beneficial purified air indoors. Growing hydroponic plants in large workspaces can noticeably reduce employee illness rates. The dry air produced by ordinary air conditioning harms people's respiratory tracts, but after bringing in green plants, the number of illness cases can be reduced by about 40%.

4. Beautifying the environment and delighting the mood.

Hydroponic plants are elegant in style and highly ornamental. Hydroponic flowers can be enjoyed for their leaves, stems and flowers, and also for their ever-changing root systems, which increases their decorative appeal. You can use the ever-changing forms and colors of flowers and plants to freely arrange and lay out several kinds of flowers and plants, thereby achieving an artistic effect similar to flower arranging.

5. Easy to maintain and easy to care for.

Every plant needs five basic growth factors to grow healthily and luxuriantly. They are: light, air, suitable temperature, water and nutrients. If any one of these is missing, the plant will quickly wither and die, and no amount of the others can make up for it. Soilless cultivation plants already provide three of these factors themselves:

(1) Air: Placing small granular expanded clay pebbles with good air permeability over the plant roots ensures balanced airflow around the roots.
(2) Water: The water level hole is set according to the plant's water needs, and the container can maintain a certain water reserve, thus saving the trouble of constantly watering.
(3) Nutrients: Hydroponic plants come with enough fertilizer to sustain plant growth when purchased, so they can survive on their own for as long as three months.
(4) Light and suitable temperature: Only these two factors depend on external conditions.

So it is not an easy thing to kill a hydroponic plant. Types of hydroponic plants: pothos, arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa), peace lily (Spathiphyllum), anthurium, Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), aloe, lucky bamboo, umbrella plant (Schefflera), pennywort (Hydrocotyle), water bamboo, and so on.

What are the common hydroponic plants and flowers?

There are many types of plants on the market now, and hydroponic plants are one of them. Next, let me introduce them to you.

What hydroponic plants are there

Lucky bamboo

Lucky bamboo, Latin scientific name: Dracaena sanderiana. Formerly called: Sander's dracaena, also known as ribbon plant, evergreen bamboo, longevity bamboo, spaced-flower longevity bamboo, fortune bamboo, fortune tower, bamboo tower, tower bamboo. When placed in the Wenchang position it is also called Wenchang bamboo (usually placed as 4 stalks). It belongs to the family Ruscaceae and the genus Dracaena. It is native to Cameroon in western Africa. It is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant, with a plant height of up to 4 m. It likes shade and moisture, and its stems and leaves are thick. Its varieties include green leaves, green leaves with white edges (called silver edge), green leaves with yellow edges (called golden edge), and green leaves with silver centers (called silver center), maintained in submerged water. Because its stems and leaves closely resemble bamboo leaves, placing it on a windowsill, desk or shelf gives people a sense of tall, noble elegance and relaxed freedom.

Pothos

Pothos belongs to the Araceae family and is a large evergreen climbing plant. It grows in tropical regions and often climbs over rocks and tree trunks in rainforests. It has strong twining ability and well-developed aerial roots, and can be grown hydroponically.

On mature branches, the petiole is thick and strong, 30-40 cm long, slightly expanded at the base, with the upper joint 2.5-3 cm long and slightly thickened, with a broad groove on the ventral side, long leaf sheaths, and thin leathery leaves that are emerald green, usually (especially on the leaf surface) with many irregular pure yellow patches, entire, unequal-sided ovate or ovate-oblong, with a short acuminate apex, a deep cordate base, slightly coarse, and slightly raised on both sides.

Spider plant

Spider plant, also known as: hanging pot grass, hanging orchid, fishing orchid, orchid grass, folded-crane orchid; in Western Europe it is also called spider grass or airplane grass. Its roots are fleshy and its leaves are slender, resembling orchid leaves. The stolons produced from the leaf axils of the spider plant can be about a chi long, both firm and soft; the leaves clustered at the top of the stems droop outward from the edge of the pot and sway in the wind, shaped like a crane spreading its wings and leaping. Therefore, the spider plant was called folded-crane orchid in ancient times. The plant has the function of purifying air, and the whole plant can be used as medicine.

Characteristics of hydroponic plants

Clean and hygienic: Hydroponic flowers grow in clear, transparent water, with no soil and no traditional fertilizer, and they do not breed viruses, bacteria or mosquitoes, and have no peculiar smell. They can be widely used in various settings such as enterprises, guesthouses, restaurants, institutions, hospitals, shops and homes. Such a hydroponic flower market is bound to be very popular.

Highly ornamental: The product realizes the co-cultivation of flowers and fish, with red flowers and green leaves above, drifting fibrous roots below, and fish swimming freely in the water, a three-dimensional planting method that makes the product novel. Such a hydroponic flower market is bound to be very popular.

Convenient care: Growing hydroponic flowers is especially simple. Change the water once every half a month or a month, add a few drops of nutrient solution, and that is enough, and one box of nutrient solution can last one to two years. Saves time, effort, money and worry! Such a hydroponic flower market is bound to be very popular.

Easy to combine: Various hydroponic flowers can be freely combined and grown like fresh flowers, and they grow for a long time, forming exquisite works of art. Plants of different colors and different flowering periods can also be combined into four-season bonsai.

Precautions for growing hydroponic plants

Plants need sunlight, so when cultivating indoor hydroponic plants, pay attention to choosing the growth environment for hydroponic plants according to the different types of plants.

Another technique for growing hydroponic plants is to pay attention to regular water changes. Plant growth also needs oxygen, and the oxygen their roots need for respiration can only be absorbed from the water, and only fresh water contains a large amount of oxygen.

In addition, hydroponic plants must be given nutrient solution. When preparing the nutrient solution, be sure to follow the instructions on the nutrient solution, and be careful not to use too much or to shorten the time interval between each addition of nutrient solution. Before preparation, first leave the tap water standing for a few hours to release the chlorine in it and make the water temperature the same as the room.

The above is an introduction to hydroponic plants. I hope you will like it.