Why are the leaves of the Peace Lily turning yellow and drooping?

1. Improper watering

When the Peace Lily is overwatered, the roots cannot get oxygen and become distressed, but the symptoms mainly show on the leaves, such as yellowing foliage.

Solution: Water by letting the soil dry out completely and then watering thoroughly. Do not let the potting soil stay constantly soggy; it is better to err on the dry side than the wet side.

2. Insufficient humidity

The Peace Lily likes a warm, high-humidity environment. Indoor humidity kept between 70-85% is ideal for healthy growth. If humidity is low, the leaves will develop yellowing, scorched edges and shriveling.

Solution: During hot, dry summer weather, mist the leaves frequently to maintain adequate ambient humidity, and place the Peace Lily in a well-ventilated, cool spot.

3. Poor ventilation

The Peace Lily's placement should have good ventilation to help the plant exchange air, so that stale indoor gases do not affect it; otherwise the plant's leaves begin to yellow and it loses vigor.

Solution: The Peace Lily is best placed by a window, on a balcony or in similar spots, but it must not be exposed to direct strong light.

4. Pest infestation

When the Peace Lily is attacked by pests, it also shows up as yellowing, withered leaves; the most common culprit is the red spider mite.

Solution: When red spider mites are few, they can be picked off and destroyed by hand. When the infestation is severe, spray evenly with acaricide (Mite-Clear) diluted 4000-5000 times (each 100 ml bottle mixed with 800-1000 jin of water) to achieve the desired result.

Indoor foliage plant varieties, illustrations and cultivation key points

Indoor foliage plant varieties, illustrations and cultivation key points

Indoor foliage plant varieties, illustrations and cultivation key points

Key care points for common indoor plants

Golden Pothos tree (Yuanbao tree): drought-tolerant, cold-tolerant, tolerant of poor soil and highly stress-resistant; place in indirect light, water thoroughly when the potting soil is completely dry.

Sago Palm (Tieshu): slow-growing, an evergreen shrub; likes light but cannot tolerate scorching sun, likes warmth, overwinter above 7°C, sandy loam soil is best; pay attention to watering, place in direct sunlight.

Tiger's Jaw (Hutouying): likes sunlight, drought-tolerant, root system not well developed; in summer place outdoors in a ventilated, sunny spot; high temperatures and shade easily cause leggy growth and deformation.

Money Tree (Facaishu): likes full sunlight and high temperatures, also tolerates shade. Ideal temperature 15-30°C; water once every 3 days in summer. During the growing season keep the potting soil moist, water only when dry. If there is too much water or waterlogging, growth will be poor or the roots and stems will rot; however, the soil should not be too dry either, especially on clear days when the air is dry, when appropriate misting is needed to keep the leaves glossy green and shiny.

Money Tree (Yaoqianshu): likes a warm environment, needs semi-shade conditions; place in indirect light, water thoroughly when the potting soil is completely dry, do not water too frequently.

King (Fertility) Coconut: likes warmth, humidity and semi-shade, ideal temperature 20-30°C; place in indirect light, water thoroughly when the potting soil is completely dry.
Purple-backed Calathea (Zibei Zhuyu): likes semi-shade, afraid of cold, ideal temperature 18-22°C; place in indirect light, keep the potting soil moist.

Anthurium (Hongzhang): likes sun, afraid of scorching sun. Likes high temperature and humidity, not cold-tolerant, suffers cold damage below 13°C; mist the leaves often during the growing season to maintain humidity. Avoid strong light; place on a north windowsill in summer and a south windowsill in other seasons.

Bromeliad (Fengli): likes sun and heat, ideal growing temperature 20-25°C; make sure water does not accumulate in the pot, and when watering, most of the water should go into the central hollow cup.

Areca Palm (Meili Zhenkui): likes warmth, humidity and semi-shade; place in indirect light.

African Jasmine: does not like direct sunlight, likes semi-shade, requires good ventilation, likes moisture; provide shade in summer, strictly control water in winter, keeping it on the drier side.

Dracaena (Baxi Mu): likes a warm environment, ideal growing temperature 16-26°C, relatively drought-tolerant, needs semi-shade conditions; likes loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam.

Ficus bonsai (Rongshu): likes loose, fertile, sandy acidic soil, not drought-tolerant, relatively tolerant of wet conditions; can be displayed indoors long-term under indirect light.

Lucky Bamboo Tower (Fugui Zhu Ta): likes a warm environment, ideal temperature 20-25°C, overwinter above 5°C; keep water in the container at all times.

Rubber Tree (Xiangpi Shu): likes a warm, humid climate, not cold-tolerant; in summer it must not be exposed to scorching sun, place it indoors or on a balcony in a ventilated, shaded spot; in winter overwinter it indoors. Water more during the peak season, and in winter the potting soil can be slightly on the dry side.

Emerald Green (Lübaoshi): likes warmth and humidity, likes light but fears direct sunlight, tolerates shade. Overwintering temperature should be above 15°C; the potting soil should be fertile and well-drained.

Croton (Bianye Mu): likes warmth, humidity and plenty of sunlight. Sensitive to drought; place in indirect light, control water amount.

Dragon Bone (Longgu): likes sunlight, drought-tolerant; in summer place outdoors in a ventilated, sunny spot, avoid waterlogging.

Golden Pothos (Lüluo): likes high temperature, high humidity and semi-shade, ideal temperature 18-22°C, overwintering temperature not below 15°C; keep the potting soil moist and mist the leaves; a well-aerated pine-needle mixed soil is best for the potting mix.

Elephant Ear (Dishui Guanyin): likes moisture, not drought-tolerant, likes shade; keep the potting soil moist, and a well-aerated pine-needle mixed soil is best for the potting mix.

Areca Palm (Sanwei Kui): likes high temperature, humidity and semi-shade; place in indirect light, keep the potting soil moist.

Elephant Bush (Jinzhi Yuye): likes warmth, humidity and semi-shade; keep the potting soil moist and mist the leaves.

Bottle Palm (Jiuping Lan): not afraid of drought, and also cold-tolerant (can tolerate low temperatures above 0°C); keep the potting soil slightly moist and loose.

Peace Lily (Lüjüren): likes a warm, humid, semi-shade and slightly acidic environment, ideal temperature 15-25°C, relative air humidity above 40%; provide shade in summer and appropriate sunlight in winter.

Zebra Dieffenbachia (Banma Nianqing): likes warmth, humidity and semi-shade, avoid direct sunlight, not cold-tolerant. Ideal growing temperature 25-30°C, overwintering temperature above 15°C; keep the potting soil moist, place in indirect light.

Poinsettia (Yipinhong): likes a warm, humid environment and plenty of sunlight. Ideal growing temperature during the day 26-29°C; potted poinsettias need plenty of sunlight and should be moved as little as possible.

Peace Lily (Baihe Yu): likes high temperature, high humidity and semi-shade. Not cold-tolerant, winter overwintering temperature not below 15°C; potting soil must be loose and fertile, water and mist thoroughly during the leaf-growing season to maintain high air humidity, and provide appropriate shade.

Asparagus Fern (Wenzhu): likes moisture, not drought-tolerant, likes sunlight, tolerates semi-shade, avoid scorching sun; water more during the spring and summer growing season, until the potting soil is thoroughly wet, water less in winter, avoid waterlogging.

Umbrella Plant (Shuizhu): likes moisture, not drought-tolerant; water frequently to keep the potting soil moist.

Spider Plant (Diaolan): likes moisture, should be watered daily; suitable for growing on a bright balcony without direct sun or indoors.

Golden Pothos (Huangjin Ge): likes semi-shade, ideal temperature 18-22°C; in winter place on a south window to receive light. Water to keep the potting soil moist.

Silver Queen (Yin Huanghou): likes moisture and semi-shade; place in indirect light, be careful not to water too frequently.

Practical handbook for caring for common indoor flowers

Azalea early-flowering varieties bloom in October, mid-flowering varieties bloom in January, and late-flowering varieties bloom in February. The flowering period lasts about 3 months.

Cultivation principles:
Plant in a semi-shaded spot indoors, avoid direct strong light, and avoid dry, high-temperature environments. Keep the winter minimum temperature above 8°C. Water to keep the potting soil moist, water thoroughly once a week, and also pay attention to raising air humidity by frequently spraying clean water around the plant; it grows well when air humidity is above 70%.

Whether you can grow azaleas well depends on the potting soil. Azaleas are acid-soil flowers, and the potting soil pH is best between 5.0-5.5; when pH exceeds 6, growth is often poor. You can pile up fallen pine needles, let them decompose, then add a small portion of garden soil and mix for potting, or buy acid soil from the market for potting. Try not to water with tap water; use cooled boiled water or regularly add a small amount of diluted ferrous sulfate solution (about 0.1%). With long-term use of ferrous sulfate, the soil easily becomes compacted, and at that point you should loosen the soil.

The potting soil should also be loose and well-drained, and the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot should be covered with a tile piece with its convex side facing up. Repot once every spring.

Tips from experience:
Before flowering, remove the buds next to the flower buds, otherwise the flowers are not easy to open. After the flowers drop, remove the calyx. After flowering, prune the plant; in spring and summer apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen, and in autumn and winter apply a compound fertilizer mainly of phosphorus and potassium, and stop fertilizing once flower buds appear. You can also put slow-release fertilizer into the soil when repotting in spring, and then no more fertilizing is needed for a year, but the amount must be controlled by experience. If you do not mind the trouble, you can also make your own organic fertilizer. Get some sesame paste residue from a small sesame oil mill at the free market, put it together with fish scales, let it fully ferment until it foams white and has no bad smell, then dilute with water at a ratio of one part per thousand and water once every half month.

Clay pots and earthenware pots are best; you can also use small floral or blue-and-white porcelain pots as cachepots, but avoid pots with large patterns.

Pests and diseases: whiteflies will cause leaves to curl and shrivel; if the air is too dry, red spider mites will cause damage; improper cultivation methods can cause various mold diseases, and azalea root rot is the most important one, mainly showing as poor plant growth, wilted and dried leaves, and brown spots and rotting, peeling bark on the roots.

Narcissus likes a sunny, warm and humid environment. Generally, choose short varieties for small potted plants, placed on windowsills or desks for viewing; it is an excellent indoor flower for winter.

Cultivation principles: place in a spot with relatively good indoor light, maintain the growing environment at 15-20°C, and grow it in clean water.

Tips from experience: the water only needs to touch the root disc; pour the water out at night and add water during the day. It must receive sufficient light, otherwise the leaves will be thin and long and it will not bloom. Scoring it open can shorten the flowering period, but be sure not to touch the flower buds.

Pests and diseases: very few.

Poinsettia is also called Christmas poinsettia. It likes a sunny, warm environment. The flowering period is from November to March of the following year, and it can also be forced to bloom earlier by short-day treatment.

Cultivation principles:
Place in a spot with plenty of light; in summer it can be moved outdoors to a spot with dappled shade. It requires a high-temperature environment, with the growing period at 25-29°C and 18°C at night. After the bracts color up, lower the temperature to 18-20°C, and about 15°C at night. Poinsettia is relatively tolerant of low temperatures and can occasionally endure temperatures below 5°C. If below 8°C, water less and give more sunlight. When entering the flowering period, water with warm water, and reduce water supply at full bloom; overwatering will cause leaf drop. It requires moderate humidity, and in hot rooms it should be misted frequently with warm water. Pot it in acidic peat soil plus a small amount of sandy soil, and repot once a year or every other year. During the peak growing season it needs plenty of nutrients; fertilize once a week from April to September. A simple way to dwarf the plant is to prune after flowering each year, leaving the stem about 10 cm high; applying a growth retardant would be even better. You can also bend and shape it at will in summer. If you want it to bloom earlier, you can artificially shorten the daylight to 9 hours of light per day, and after 45 days it will bloom.

Tips from experience: it is easy to keep alive but hard to keep well (with a full, rounded flower crown). When new leaves grow, 30% shade is required. If the light is too strong, the leaves will be scorched and develop spots; if there is not enough light, the lower leaves will drop, the bract color will fade, and the plant will become thin and long, not sturdy. When watering, do not touch the leaves, otherwise wherever it is touched will rot.

Pests and diseases: a dry environment will bring damage from whiteflies, scale insects and red spider mites, causing leaves to twist and deform, or causing root rot.

Phalaenopsis. Phalaenopsis is called the "Queen of Orchids", with a flowering period of up to 2-3 months, blooming 2 times a year, and each flower stem can bear 10-20 flowers. It has no pollen and will not cause respiratory allergies; the only shortcoming is that it has no fragrance. Each phalaenopsis plant can live up to 5-10 years.

Cultivation principles: the light requirement is dappled shade; in summer it is better to shade the sunlight with a bamboo curtain or mesh curtain. Water alternately dry and wet; to increase humidity, it is best to mist once a day, but be careful not to spray on the flowers, and do not spray at noon. For fertilizing, you can use orchid-specific fertilizer available on the market, diluted with water according to the ratio and watered on.

Tips from experience: phalaenopsis likes a cool, ventilated environment; if the environment is relatively hot and stuffy, it easily rots. When planting phalaenopsis, it is best to use a pot with many holes.

Anthurium. Anthurium has a relatively long flowering period and can have spathes all year round, making it a very good indoor ornamental plant.

Cultivation principles: likes light but fears the strong sunlight at noon in summer. In summer place it on a north window indoors, and in other seasons place it on a south window. The most suitable growing temperature is 20-25°C, and in winter the room temperature should not be below 15°C.

Water alternately dry and wet; tap the pot with your hand, and if the sound is relatively hollow, it is time to water. Water thoroughly, judging by water flowing out of the bottom of the pot. To raise humidity, mist the leaf surface.

For fertilizing, buy a special flower nutrient solution, add 5 ml to 200-300 times water, stir evenly, and water thoroughly just like watering, once a month. It is best to grow it in a pot with holes. Repot once every 2-3 years, generally in spring.

Pests and diseases: there are damage from nematodes, aphids, scale insects and red spider mites. If care is poor, it will lead to root rot, and the leaf surface will also develop spots and discoloration.

Tuberous begonia. The flowering period is long, blooming from spring to after autumn, and the stems are relatively brittle. It can be used as a medium or small potted plant, and its hanging varieties can also be used as hanging plants together with other green-leaf plants.

Cultivation principles: suited to a cool environment, afraid of severe summer heat. Likes dry soil and humid air; potting soil that is too wet will cause root rot, and dry air will cause male flowers to drop. Afraid of waterlogging. Best placed on east or west windows. The suitable growing temperature is about 20°C and must not exceed 30°C. During dormancy, about 10°C. Air humidity about 70%.

During the growing season, water frequently with lukewarm, soft water with a pH of 4.5-5. Never spray water directly onto the leaves and flowers, otherwise it will cause leaf mold. In the later part of the growing season, gradually reduce the amount of watering. After dormancy, cut off the withered stems. Throughout winter the tubers can be stored in peat, kept slightly moist.

It likes fertilizer, and should be fertilized at intervals during the flowering period, using a nutrient solution for flowering plants, 5 ml diluted in 1000 ml water, stirred evenly and watered on like watering; be careful not to pour the fertilizer water onto the leaves, otherwise they easily rot and may even cause the plant to die.

Pests and diseases: there are nematodes, aphids and begonia mites. When humidity is high, bacterial diseases easily occur. Water-soaked spots appear on the leaf edges and undersides, slowly turning brown and finally drying up. The stems turn lead-gray and appear to contain purulent secretions. These diseases spread very quickly; once they appear, the diseased plant should be burned immediately.

Clivia can be used as a medium or small potted plant, and is a very good indoor plant for both flowers and foliage.

Cultivation principles: does not like to be moved frequently; it is best to find a relatively fixed position. Afraid of strong light, it should be placed on a south window, ventilated. Too strong light will cause the leaves to yellow. The suitable growing temperature is 20-25°C; in summer, when the temperature is above 25°C, it begins dormancy.

The secret to successfully growing clivia is related to watering. Do not water too much, especially during dormancy, when only a small amount of water is needed to keep the potting soil slightly moist. When the flower stem grows to about 15 cm, it needs a little more water, but too much water will cause yellow spots on the leaves or root rot. It is best to use warm water close to room temperature. Wipe the leaf surface frequently in summer, control watering in winter, and no fertilizing is needed.

Healthy, robust plants do not need repotting every year. Repotting is generally done after flowering. The potting soil is a mixed medium of leaf mold plus fertile loam and river sand.

Pests and diseases: sometimes it is harmed by scale insects and aphids. Potting soil that is too wet will cause root rot.

Dracaena. An evergreen tree. It likes an environment with plenty of light, high temperature and high humidity, but it has a very wide tolerance range for light and is very shade-tolerant, making it suitable for indoor growth.

Cultivation principles: place about 3-4 m from a window, or in a similar light spot, and be careful to prevent direct strong light at noon, especially from March to September. However, an overly shady environment will cause the leaves to yellow and fade. As long as conditions such as temperature are suitable, it can remain in a growing state all year round, but it is best to let it go dormant in winter, with a dormancy temperature of 13°C. If the temperature is too low, yellow-brown spots will appear on the leaf tips and edges. In winter it must not be below 5°C. When placing it, keep it away from air conditioners and heating.

The amount of water must be balanced; potting soil that is too dry or too wet is harmful. Excess water at the bottom of the pot will cause root rot, so use a highly drainage pad at the bottom of the pot. In summer it is best to water with rainwater. Water before 10 a.m. or after noon, alternately dry and wet.

It likes a relatively humid environment and needs a constant temperature, otherwise it easily suffers pests and diseases. It is best to buy it in spring and avoid buying it in autumn or winter. You can frequently use misting to raise air humidity.

During the growing season, fertilize once every 2 weeks; for perennial old plants, it is best to fertilize once a week. If you want it to go dormant in winter, stop fertilizing after September.

Repot every April; new plants should be repotted once a year. Old plants should be repotted every other year; generally you should check whether the old plant's roots have grown out of the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot before repotting. Use peat soil with a small amount of sesame paste residue for the potting soil; because it likes good drainage, add a small amount of coarse sand and mix.

Pests and diseases: if the environment is unsuitable, there will be damage from red spider mites, thrips and scale insects. In addition, excessive ventilation, drought, irregular watering and excessive fertilizing can all cause the leaf tips to scorch. Generally the plant is relatively clean and not easily troubled by pests. Sometimes the leaves have scorched edges, mostly a physiological disease caused by drought or too-low temperature.

Lucky Bamboo. An evergreen small tree. Suitable for medium potted plants, or grown indoors in water, placed in a vase, after some time it will put out roots. It is not strict about light, so it can be placed in any indoor spot for a long time. Cultivation is similar to Dracaena, and it basically has no pests or diseases.

Monstera, also known as Penglai Banana, Tuanlong Bamboo, or Wire Orchid.

Cultivation principles: likes light, but should avoid direct light at noon in summer. The more light, the larger the leaves and the more splits. Monstera is very robust and also very shade-tolerant, and can be placed in a fairly dark spot for some time. The suitable growing temperature is 20-25°C; in winter 12°C is enough. The minimum temperature is 5°C. Air humidity is 60-70%.

During the growing season, water frequently and keep the potting soil moderately moist. If the plant is at a relatively low temperature in winter, the amount of watering should also be reduced. You can frequently spray the leaf surface with lukewarm calcium-free soft water or rainwater, or wipe it with a sponge, but this should be stopped in winter.

    After June, fertilize once every 2 weeks. When nutrients are insufficient, the leaves will grow very small. If aerial roots grow into the soil, they can absorb nutrients, so some aerial roots can be used to increase the absorption area.

Repot every year. The potting soil is ordinary potting soil. The pot should be slightly larger and drainage must be good. If grown in a totem-pole style, the aerial roots should be wrapped around a moss-wrapped pole to help absorb nutrients.

Pests and diseases: the plant is robust and rarely infected by pests or diseases.

Peacock Plant (Calathea). A perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Suitable for indoor medium and small potted plants, unique and exquisite. The suitable temperature is 20°C.

Cultivation principles: likes a semi-shade, semi-sun light environment, otherwise the leaves fade and the ornamental value is affected. When placing it, avoid direct sunlight and put it in a brighter spot. It is also very shade-tolerant. For overwintering, the temperature should be 13-16°C; in the other three seasons, normal room temperature is enough. The most suitable temperature is 18-25°C.

It has relatively high humidity requirements; in spring and summer, water promptly and keep the potting soil moist, avoiding dryness and excessive water. In autumn and winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering. Misting alone is not enough; if conditions allow, it is best to use a humidifier to raise humidity. For the sake of appearance, wipe the leaves frequently. Misting with cooled boiled water gives the best effect.

Repot once every other year. The potting soil should be a slightly acidic medium with good aeration and water permeability; you can use peat soil with a small amount of coarse sand as the potting soil. During the growing season, water with fertilizer solution once every 2 weeks. At other times, fertilize little or not at all.

Pests and diseases: if ventilation is poor during the growing season, it is easily harmed by scale insects; when severe, this can hinder the growth of stems and leaves, and it can be controlled by spraying with diluted dimethoate solution. The ornamental value of the leaves is very high, so be sure to avoid mechanical damage.

Cinnamon
Cultivation principles: likes a humid, ventilated environment; if ventilation is poor, the inner branches will turn yellow and the leaves will drop. Sometimes its leaf shape droops, which is caused by lack of water; if watered promptly, it can recover to an upright state within four or five hours. Water thoroughly at one time, and at the same time mist the leaves frequently to increase humidity.

Cordyline. A small shrub, with leaves mottled red, pink and green, very attractive.

Cultivation principles: likes plenty of sunlight, but cannot take direct sun either; if light is insufficient, the mottled leaves will gradually fade. When the soil has completely dried out, water promptly, and water thoroughly until water comes out of the bottom of the pot. Also mist the leaf surface regularly, which can increase the surrounding humidity and benefit plant growth.

Peace Lily (Lüjüren). It rarely blooms, and the flowering period is about one month. The flowers are white and strip-shaped, with a tall spathe, carrying the meaning of "smooth sailing", and are an excellent gift.

Cultivation principles: shade-tolerant, but if it gets no sunlight at all, the leaves will also fade. When the soil has completely dried out, it needs watering. Usually insert a small stick into the soil; if there is not much soil on the stick, it means it is time to water. When watering, water thoroughly at one time until water flows out of the bottom of the pot. To maintain humidity, mist the leaf surface frequently.

Golden Pothos is a plant that uses aerial roots to climb on other objects. It is highly shade-tolerant and an excellent material for beautifying the home; it can be used as a totem pole, a wall hanging, or as a water-grown cutting or hanging plant.

Cultivation principles: Golden Pothos likes light, but cannot endure strong sunlight. Outdoors it can be placed in dappled shade; indoors place it on an east or west window, and in winter on a south window. If the light is poor, the pale yellow stripes will turn grayish yellow. The suitable growing temperature is 15-25°C; a room with heating is very suitable, and in winter it should not be below 10°C. Air humidity 40-50%.

In summer keep the potting soil moderately moist; in winter, as the temperature drops, reduce the amount of watering. The plant can endure temporary dryness and wetness. It is best to water the plant with calcium-free soft water. During the growing season, fertilize once every two weeks.

Young plants are repotted every year, and established plants once every 2-3 years. The potting soil is a mixed medium of conifer needle soil, peat chunks and decomposed horse manure. But other soils can also be used, as long as the soil contains no calcium or only a trace of calcium. Note that the pot's drainage must be good.

Pests and diseases: the plant is robust, with very few pests and diseases.

Philodendron. A vine plant. There are two kinds, Ruby Philodendron and Emerald Philodendron. It can be used as a medium or large potted plant, generally made into a totem pole. Because of its strong shade tolerance, it can be placed indoors for a relatively long time.

Cultivation principles: Philodendron is relatively shade-tolerant, but under bright light it grows faster and more robustly. Indoors it can be placed at a window. The suitable growing temperature is 20-30°C, and the minimum temperature must never be below 14°C. Air humidity should be about 70%.

During the growing season, water frequently and mist the leaves twice a day. In winter, water the plant with lukewarm water, preferably soft water or rainwater, because the minerals and harmful elements in tap water are bad for the roots. The plant should not be moved outdoors to be rinsed with tap water; instead, spray it with lukewarm water.
Apply a liquid nitrogen fertilizer once every two weeks during the growing season.

Repot every spring, carefully shake off the old soil between the roots, and cut away dead roots. The potting mix is a blend of conifer needle soil, decomposed horse manure and a small amount of granular peat. Drainage of the pot must be very good; retained water will turn the plant's leaves yellow, and too little water will also turn the leaves yellow.

Pests and diseases: Philodendron is generally not prone to pests and diseases, but incorrect care will make it vulnerable to scale insect infestation.

Snake plant, also known as tiger skin plant, tiger grass orchid, thousand-year orchid and brocade orchid. A perennial herbaceous plant. Its main ornamental feature is its beautiful leaves.

Cultivation principles: It likes warm temperatures and needs plenty of sunlight, and can be placed on an unobstructed south-facing windowsill. But it also tolerates shade, and will not die under shaded conditions; only after too long a time will the leaves become dull and faded.

The snake plant is an extremely easy plant to grow, but overwatering will harm it. Its suitable temperature is 18-27°C, and growth stops below 13°C. In winter the temperature must not stay below 8-10°C for long, otherwise the base of the plant will rot.

Next, special attention must be paid to controlling the amount of water: apart from possibly keeping it slightly moist in summer, at other times it must not be too wet. However, you can mist the leaves often to keep them clean. In winter, keep it at a certain low temperature and dryness. When using plastic pots or other decorative flower pots with poor drainage, pay special attention to soil drainage, otherwise excess water will gradually accumulate and harm the plant. Snake plants are not strict about water hardness, and ordinary water can be used.

When growth begins in summer, fertilize 1-2 times a month; the amount of fertilizer need not be large. Generally repot once every two years. Spring is the best season for repotting.

Pests and diseases: Under conditions of excessive humidity or fluctuating high temperatures, brown spots or corky spots are liable to appear on the leaves.

The Boston fern likes warm, humid and shaded environments.

Cultivation principles: It does not need much light and dislikes direct sunlight even more, but if placed in a dark spot, the leaves will drop after a few weeks. In a greenhouse and high-humidity environment it grows very fast; although it cannot grow very large, it can still survive for a long time. Once the leaves turn yellow or drop, you can move it to a drier area, keep the temperature at about 5°C, remove the old leaves from the plant, leave it for 1-2 months, then repot and change the soil, and put it back in the greenhouse to grow; after a few months it will grow well.

It has fairly strict water requirements: it should not be too wet, nor too dry, and it is best watered with rainwater.

The Boston fern needs a lot of nutrients to grow well, but the fertilizer must not be too concentrated, so it is best watered with diluted fertilizer solution. In winter, when growth stops or during the dormant period, it should not be fertilized. Repot once every spring.

Pests and diseases: Sometimes large numbers of aphids, scale insects and the like appear and harm the plant.

The spleenwort is especially suitable as an indoor foliage plant; it can be grown as a large or medium potted plant, and can also be placed in a hanging basket as a hanging plant.

Cultivation principles: It needs only a small amount of sunlight, so it can be placed in the living room. Avoid scorching sun exposure. The suitable growing temperature is 15-25°C, 15°C in winter, and not lower than 10°C. If the temperature is too low, the leaf margins will turn brown. Air humidity should be above 60%.

During the growing season, water generously and regularly; in winter, just keep the potting soil slightly moist. To raise air humidity, mist the plant frequently, preferably with demineralized soft water or rainwater.

During the growing season, apply a light fertilizer once every 10-14 days. With proper fertilization, the plant will produce many new leaves; lack of fertilizer or dry air can cause the leaf margins to turn brown. Generally repot once every 2-3 years, using a mixture of peat, leaf mold and a small amount of decomposed horse manure. Note that the pot must drain well.

Pests and diseases: There are pests such as red spider mites and scale insects.

Asparagus fern is a perennial climbing herbaceous plant and a very good potted plant.

Cultivation principles: It likes cool shade and can be placed in a bright spot indoors. The suitable growing temperature is 18-25°C; keep it at 12-15°C in winter, not below 8°C. It is sensitive to dry air and should be misted often. Water generously in summer; in winter just keep the potting soil moist.

From May to September, plants with well-developed roots can be fertilized once a week. In winter, if the plant is in a warm living room, a light fertilizer can be applied once a week.

Young plants are repotted once a year, and mature plants once every two years, removing some old roots at the same time. The potting mix can be a blend of leaf mold, crushed clay and a small amount of decomposed horse manure. Place a piece of broken tile over the drainage hole of the pot to keep roots from growing out of the pot.

Pests and diseases: aphids, scale insects and red spider mites. Healthy plants rarely become diseased; once infected, the affected branches should immediately be cut off at the base and burned.

Kalanchoe care: It likes light and fears moisture, and fears waterlogging.

Selaginella, also known as the resurrection plant, is a fern that tolerates drought; even if it dries out so much that the leaves droop, it revives as soon as it is watered. It likes cool conditions and fears sun exposure, and needs high air humidity. It can be propagated by division; it survives as long as it has roots, and it is especially tough.

Cacti are plants that grow in tropical deserts. They usually need appropriate misting, but only under conditions of ample sunlight; do not mist on cloudy days, and for some varieties do not spray the grafted top, because water there easily causes rot.
The hole at the bottom of the flower pot should be plugged with paper, so that water can still seep through (too much water will rot the roots) without letting all the water leak out.

Common knowledge for caring for green plants

1. Distinguish light requirements
1. Sun-loving flowers: They like sunlight, such as magnolia, Chinese rose, pomegranate, plum blossom, pansy, scallop bush and so on;
2. Neutral flowers: They are not strict about light. Such as jasmine, osmanthus, Boston ivy and so on;
3. Shade-loving flowers: Such as asparagus fern, Swiss cheese plant, pothos, rubber tree, arrowhead plant, dragon tree and so on.

2. According to light requirement duration, they are divided into
1. Long-day flowers: More than 12 hours of sunlight per day, such as iris, China aster, garden balsam and so on;
2. Intermediate-day flowers: Such as carnation, Chinese rose and so on;
3. Short-day flowers: Sunlight per day must be less than 12 hours. Such as poinsettia, chrysanthemum and so on.

3. Temperature
1. Cold-hardy flowers: They can endure low temperatures of around minus 20 degrees. Such as winter jasmine, crabapple, elm-leaved spirea, hosta, lilac, daylily, wisteria and so on;
2. Semi-cold-hardy flowers: They can endure low temperatures of around minus 5 degrees, such as tulip, Chinese rose, chrysanthemum, pomegranate, peony and so on;
3. Cold-tender flowers: Such as asparagus fern, cast-iron plant, bird of paradise, croton, poinsettia, Chinese hibiscus, calla lily, white orchid and succulents and so on.

4. The important place of water in flower growing
1. Pay attention to water quality: According to the amount of magnesium salts and calcium, water is divided into hard water and soft water, and soft water is better for watering flowers. Rainwater is the most ideal, followed by river water and pond water. Remember: do not use dishwashing water or water containing laundry powder; tap water should be left to stand for a day before use, so that the chlorine in the water fully volatilizes.
2. Pay attention to water temperature: Do not go abruptly from cold to hot.
3. Water amount: In spring, more, and it is best to water at noon; in summer, plenty, and it is best to water in the early morning and evening; in autumn, water less; in winter, water once every few days according to whether the pot is dry or wet.
4. When watering, note: Master it according to the different seasons, varying weather and plant preferences. In short, before watering, first analyze the water shortage situation intuitively, then water.

5. When growing flowers, also note that the soil must not become compacted and hard
1. Apply more organic fertilizer;
2. Mix in an appropriate amount of sand;
3. Drainage and loosening the soil.

6. Home flower growing often uses composting methods
Use grass, fallen leaves, straw and so on, add an appropriate amount of water, livestock manure, human excrement and urine and a small amount of lime, put them into a pit and pile them into a rectangular shape, cover with soil, and compost for a certain time; this can kill insects and weeds and also make the organic components decompose quickly.

7. Top dressing
1. Foliar top dressing;
2. Urea top dressing; urea solution can also be sprayed on the leaves;
3. Monopotassium phosphate helps flower bud differentiation and can also make flowers larger and their colors more vivid;
4. For iron-deficiency yellow leaves, spraying ferrous sulfate is best. Such as camellia, gardenia, banana shrub and so on;
5. Boron water can prevent and reduce flower and bud drop, and is very beneficial for increasing flower number and flower quality;
6. Top dressing must be done with attention to the amount: urea and monopotassium phosphate at 0.2%--0.3%, ferrous sulfate at 0.3%--0.5%, and boron at 0.05%--0.1%.
7. Top dressing time is generally 8-10 a.m. or in the evening; do not neglect spraying the underside of the leaves.

8. Pest control for home flower growing
To prevent and control pests and diseases, one should grasp the principle of "prevention first", strengthen management,
pay attention to ventilation, light transmission, watering, fertilizing and other care work, so that flowers and trees grow vigorously and strengthen their own ability to resist pests and diseases. Once pest or disease damage is found, measures should be taken early, achieving "treat early, treat small, treat thoroughly" to prevent spread. Common flower pests and diseases are introduced below with examples:

1. Pests
(1) Aphids
Aphids are small green-yellow insects that harm almost all flowers and trees. Between spring and summer, they often gather densely on the new shoots or flower buds of Chinese rose, pomegranate, oleander, chrysanthemum and so on. They suck sap with their mouthparts, causing young leaves to curl and shrivel; in severe cases they not only affect growth and flowering but also make the plant wither. Aphids can produce 20-30 generations a year, and eggs can overwinter.

Control method: Spray with 40% dimethoate emulsion at 3000 times dilution (that is, add 1 g of dimethoate emulsion to 3 kg of water); or spray with 25% phosmet emulsion at 1
000 times dilution. In addition, there are two simple control methods: first, use the ratio of 5 g of cigarette butts mixed with 70-80 g of water, soak for 24 hours, rub a little, filter out the residue with gauze, and then spray; second, use 1:200 laundry powder water (soapy water); to improve the effect, add a few drops of rapeseed oil, stir fully until no oil film is visible on the surface, then spray with a sprayer.

(2) Slug moths
Commonly known as stinging caterpillars or itch-causing worms. This pest bites and eats the leaves of Chinese rose, white orchid, tree peony, pomegranate, plum blossom, lotus, rose and so on. When the damage is severe, the leaves of an entire pot of flowers can be eaten up in less than a few days. Slug moths lurk specifically on the underside of leaves, and are often overlooked if one does not pay attention. There are 2 generations a year, one in early June and one in late June, and after mid-October they form cocoons to overwinter.

Control method: If there are few pests and the damage is light, the damaged leaves can be picked off and burned. Spray 90% crystalline trichlorfon at 1000-1
200 times dilution (that is, add 1 g or a little more of trichlorfon to 1 kg of water), or 50% fenitrothion emulsion at 500-800 times dilution.

(3) Spider mites
Also known as red spiders. They often harm rhododendron, Chinese rose, scarlet sage, crabapple as well as Chinese juniper, kumquat, bitter orange, cactus, dragon juniper and so on, among which rhododendron and Chinese juniper suffer the most serious damage. Spider mites are small in body and red in color, and are very hard to

see with the naked eye. They like to suck sap on the underside of leaves; damaged leaves turn yellow, many small white spots appear, and soon they wither, yellow and drop. Spider mites have a very strong reproductive capacity, can produce more than 10 generations a year, and often breed in high-temperature, low-humidity environments.

Control method: Clear weeds in the pot and eliminate overwintering eggs. When they are causing damage, use 40% dimethoate emulsion at 1000-1500 times dilution (that is, add 1~
1.5 g of dimethoate to 1 kg of water), or spray with 40% dicofol emulsion at 2000 times dilution,

(4) Longhorn beetles, also known as trunk-boring insects or heart-boring insects. They often harm grape, Chinese rose, rhododendron as well as peach, apricot, plum and so on.,
Control method: Cut off the damaged trunk and catch and destroy them. Or use a small knife to clear away insect frass and wood shavings, then inject omethoate 1:50 dilution from the bore hole, and seal the hole with mud slurry.

(5) Scarab beetles, also known as white grubs or white soil grubs. Their larvae are called white grubs; they have very miscellaneous feeding habits and are major underground pests of many flowers.
Control method: Deep winter plowing can promote the death of the overwintering generation. During the active period, irrigate with 50% malathion emulsion at 800-**** times dilution; protect natural enemies.

2. Diseases

(1) Powdery mildew
Also called mildew disease; it harms Chinese rose, rose, large-leaf euonymus, kumquat and so on, and often harms the leaves, stems and flower stalks of flowers and trees. A layer of white powder appears on the surface of the affected parts, and in severe cases the leaves wither. This disease is liable to occur in stuffy, humid and unventilated environments.

Control method: Spray with agents such as thiophanate and carbendazim.

(2) Southern blight
It harms Chinese rose, jasmine, clivia, small pomegranate, aucuba, orchid, chrysanthemum and so on. When the disease occurs, the stem base turns brown and rots, and the mycelium is silky, initially white, later turning yellow to brown. This disease mostly occurs in the midsummer season with moist soil, much rain and high temperature.

Control method: The potting soil should be sterilized, and at the same time pay attention to environmental ventilation, avoid overcrowded cultivation, and prune away diseased branches. Before the disease occurs, regularly spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution.

(3) Leaf spot disease
Also called black spot disease, brown spot disease and so on. It harms Chinese rose, camellia, rhododendron, rose, chrysanthemum and so on relatively more. First black spots appear in the middle of the leaves, then the leaves turn yellow and drop. The cause is mostly stuffy, unventilated and humid environments.

Control method: Pay attention to improving environmental conditions; at the early stage of the disease, the damaged leaves can be removed and burned. Spray 1% Bordeaux mixture for control, spraying once every 7 days, for a total of 4-5 sprays over the whole growing season.

What color is winter jasmine

✿ Related reading recommendations
✿ Snake Mushroom ✿ Green Maple 
✿ Running Dragon ✿ Water Hyacinth 
✿ Violet ✿ Saxifrage 
(◕‿◕✿) For flowers, bonsai and plant cultivation, please follow the Meilele Flower and Bonsai section!
.......
      Winter jasmine, also known as Yingchun, yellow jasmine and golden belt, is a clustered deciduous shrub. The plant height is 30-100 cm. The small branches are slender, upright or arching and drooping, appearing spreading. Winter jasmine is very beautiful; next, the editor will talk with you about what color winter jasmine is, combining winter jasmine pictures, and introduce it.


.......

      What color is winter jasmine? Winter jasmine, together with plum blossom, narcissus and camellia, is collectively called the “Four Friends in the Snow”, and is one of the common flowers in China. Winter jasmine not only has dignified and beautiful flowers and extraordinary temperament, but also has the characteristics of fearing no cold, being not choosy about soil and climate, and having strong adaptability, and has always been loved by people.
.......

.......
      Winter jasmine has a cultivation history of more than 1000 years. It is recorded in Bai Juyi's poem "Winter Jasmine Summons Official Liu" of the Tang Dynasty, Han Qi's "Winter Jasmine at the East Hall of the Secretariat" of the Song Dynasty, and Zhou Wenhua's "History of Runan Garden" of the Ming Dynasty. Winter jasmine is now the city flower of Hebi City, Henan Province.
.......

.......

      What color is winter jasmine? Winter jasmine is a deciduous shrub plant, upright or prostrate, 0.3-5 m tall, with drooping branches. The branches are slightly twisted, smooth and hairless; the small branches are four-angled, with more or less narrow wings on the angles. The leaves are opposite, trifoliolate, and the base of the small branches often has simple leaves; the leaf rachis has narrow wings, and the petiole is 3-10 mm long and hairless; the leaves and leaflets are slightly hairy on both sides when young, and when old only the leaf margins have cilia.
.......

.......
      The leaflets are ovate, long-ovate or elliptical, narrowly elliptical, rarely obovate, with a sharp or blunt apex and a short mucro, a wedge-shaped base, and revolute leaf margins; the midvein is slightly sunken above and raised below, and the lateral veins are not obvious; the terminal leaflet is relatively large, 1-3 cm long and 0.3-1.1 cm wide, sessile or with the base extended into a short stalk; the lateral leaflets are 0.6-2.3 cm long and 0.2-11 cm wide, sessile; the simple leaves are ovate or elliptical, sometimes nearly round, 0.7-2.2 cm long and 0.4-1.3 cm wide.
.......

.......

      What color is winter jasmine? The winter jasmine flowers are borne singly on branches grown in the previous year, opening before the leaves, with a delicate fragrance, golden yellow, tinged with red on the outside; the calyx is green, with 5-6 lobes, narrowly lanceolate, 4-6 mm long and 1.5-2.5 mm wide, with a sharp apex; the corolla is yellow, 2-2.5 cm in diameter, and the corolla tube is 0.8-2 cm long.
.......

.......
      The base diameter is 1.5-2 mm, gradually expanding upward; the lobes are 5-6, oblong or elliptical, 0.8-1.3 cm long and 3-6 mm wide, with a sharp or rounded apex. Because it blooms earliest among the hundred flowers, and after it blooms spring arrives when all flowers bloom together, it got its name.
.......
Conclusion: The winter jasmine branches droop, blooming before the leaves from late winter to early spring, with golden flowers and green foliage. In landscaping it is suitable for placing beside lakes, by streams, at bridgeheads, in wall corners, or on lawns, forest edges and slopes; it can also be planted around houses, and can be used for viewing flowers in early spring. Today the editor's introduction to what color winter jasmine is ends here; thank you all for reading.

[Article source] Flowers and Bonsai

✿Flowers and Bonsai✿

✿ Characteristics of tree peony ✿ How to grow rhododendron ✿ Is the cactus ball poisonous ✿ Black datura flower   ✿ How to grow lucky bamboo in soil 
✿ Uses of cactus ✿ How to eat yacon ✿ What is cistanche ✿ Harm of water hyacinth   ✿ Price of oldenlandia 
✿ Characteristics of osmanthus tree ✿ Golden monkey cactus ball ✿ Price of perfume lily ✿ Complete collection of tree peony pictures ✿ Does mimosa bloom 
✿ Flower language of pink rose ✿ How to grow cyclamen ✿ Forget-me-not flower pictures ✿ Red carnation pictures ✿ What are betel nuts 
✿ **Tianshan snow lotus ✿ How to grow money tree ✿ Thousand-hand Guanyin pictures ✿ Rose planting techniques ✿ Rubber tree cultivation methods 
✿ Characteristics of mimosa ✿ White magnolia pictures ✿ Sago palm leaves turning yellow ✿ Pictures of lucky bamboo grown in water ✿ Aloe vera pictures