Periwinkle cutting method illustrated: a step-by-step guide to easy propagation
Water propagation
Cut a healthy young shoot, let the wound dry, place it in a hydroponic bottle, then keep it in a cool, ventilated spot. Change the water daily. Roots usually form in about 7-10 days. After rooting, bury it in soil and keep it in a cool place for a week without light (or with indirect light). Once it is confirmed to have taken, gradually return it to normal care.
Soil propagation
In spring or early summer (April to July), cut young shoots 8-10 cm long, remove the lower leaves, keep 2-3 pairs of leaves at the top, and insert them into a sand bed or leaf mold (other substrates also work). Keep the cutting medium slightly moist at a room temperature of 20-24°C. Roots form 15-20 days after insertion.
Once the cuttings have rooted and taken, they can be transplanted into pots. Because plants grown from cuttings are not as vigorous as seed-grown seedlings, this method is rarely used in cultivation.
Common methods for growing indoor plants
Key points of this article
Flower pots, watering can, soil, fertilizer, pruning shears...
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I. How to grow Alocasia macrorrhizos (Giant Taro) (it helps remove dust from the air; do not place it in the bedroom)
1. Temperature. Alocasia macrorrhizos can only grow well in an environment no lower than 18°C. If the temperature drops below 18°C, it will enter a dormant state and stop growing. 2. Fertilizing. Alocasia macrorrhizos loves fertilizer; fertilize it monthly. 3. Watering. In summer, water it more, but not excessively; it prefers alternating dry and wet conditions, and there must be no standing water in the soil, otherwise the tubers will rot. In winter it goes dormant, so water less and stop fertilizing. 4. Sunlight. Alocasia macrorrhizos likes shade; do not expose it to direct sunlight. If it becomes "wilted," it is mainly due to insufficient fertilizer, so pay attention to topdressing. Care: Alocasia macrorrhizos likes a warm, humid environment with slight shade, but during the flowering period it needs ample sunlight, otherwise the spathe will be green, affecting quality. Ensure 3-5 hours of light per day, otherwise the leaf stalks will elongate and reduce its ornamental value. Alocasia macrorrhizos is not very cold-hardy; move it into a greenhouse in mid-October. In summer, keep it shaded and spray water frequently to cool and humidify. Alocasia macrorrhizos likes moist, fertile soil, which is what is commonly called "heavy fertilizer and heavy water"; water it plenty during the growing period.
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II. How to grow African Jasmine (its volatile oils have a significant sterilizing effect. It can help people relax, aid sleep, and also improve work efficiency)
1. Temperature. African Jasmine grows well in a warm climate, with an optimum growing temperature of 18°C to 32°C. When the summer temperature exceeds 38°C, plant growth is inhibited. In parts of South China, it can overwinter outdoors when planted in the ground; north of the Yangtze River, potted plants require a greenhouse temperature no lower than 3°C to 5°C in winter. 2. Light. African Jasmine likes sunlight, though its native environment is mostly semi-shaded. In South China, when planted in the ground as a garden greening tree, it is best to choose a site with side shade; north of the Yangtze River, for potted plants, full light can be given in spring and autumn, while in summer a shade frame is needed or the plant should be moved under the dense shade of a large tree, avoiding at least the direct light for several hours around noon. It is particularly worth noting that from June to July, after long rainy periods followed by clear, sunny days, the temperature rises suddenly and the light is very intense, so shading must be done well to prevent young shoots and tender leaves from being scorched. For potted plants in public places, fairly ample scattered light is required, or they should be placed near a window; they should not be kept too dark, otherwise the leaves will lose their green color and turn yellow or drop. 3. Water. Whether planted in the ground or in pots, ample water is required, but the roots must not be waterlogged, otherwise root rot easily occurs. In spring and autumn, water to keep the potting soil moist; during the plum rain season, guard carefully against waterlogging; in the scorching summer, spray water once in the morning and once in the afternoon to increase humidity and lower temperature; in winter, for indoor potted plants, keep the potting soil slightly moist, and around noon when the temperature is relatively higher, spray a suitable amount of water on the leaves. In spring, summer, and autumn, when fertilizing is normal, if the lower leaves of a potted plant turn yellow and drop, it is very likely due to waterlogged roots, so repot and change the soil promptly; in summer, if watering has been neglected and the new tender shoots wilt and droop, do not immediately pour a large amount of water onto the potting soil; instead, first spray some water on the leaves, and after the leaves recover slightly, give the potting soil an appropriate amount of water. 4. Soil. In the southern region, the planting site should have loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam. For potted plants in the north, use a mix of 7 parts leaf mold, 1 part river sand, 1 part composted organic fertilizer, and 1 part fermented sawdust. During the growing season, loosen the soil of potted plants once a month, always keeping the root area well aerated. In addition, potted plants can have their soil changed once every 1 to 2 years. 5. Fertilizer. During the growing season, apply a dilute, well-rotted cake fertilizer solution once a month to potted plants, and apply a phosphorus-potassium fertilizer once before flowering in May to promote flowering; after autumn, apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer 1 to 2 more times to help the plant overwinter safely. For potted plants in the north, to prevent leaf yellowing, add 0.2% ferrous sulfate when watering with fertilizer during the growing season. When planting in the ground, apply sufficient base fertilizer; in late autumn, dig trenches around the outer roots and bury cake fertilizer, 0.5 to 1 kg per plant;
Pest and disease control 1. Diseases ① Anthracnose mostly occurs on tender branches and leaves, with nearly circular to irregular sunken spots, brown edges, and grayish-white to grayish-brown centers, bearing sparse small black dots, which are its acervuli. Control method: in the early stage of the disease, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 800 times dilution plus 25% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution, or 25% carbendazim special wettable powder at 500 times dilution, alternating every 10 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive applications. ② Sunscald disease: in the intense heat of midsummer, when shade frames are inadequate, the tender shoots and young leaves of potted African Jasmine are prone to sunscald, showing many grayish-white or pale white scorch spots on the leaves. Control method: use shade netting for shade and adjust the position appropriately; in high-temperature, dry seasons, appropriately increase the frequency and amount of watering, and spray water on the leaves if necessary; for plants that have already been scorched, promptly move them under a shade shed, cut off the scorched tender shoots and young leaves, and strengthen water and fertilizer management so the plants recover their health as soon as possible. 2. Insect pests. African Jasmine occasionally also suffers from leaf-eating pests, such as Atractomorpha sinensis, causing many holes or notches in the leaves; promptly spray 90% trichlorfon crystals at 800 times dilution to kill them.
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III. How to grow Peace Lily (it suppresses waste gases exhaled by the human body, such as ammonia and acetone. It can also filter benzene, trichloroethylene, and formaldehyde from the air. Its high transpiration rate can prevent the nasal mucosa from drying out and greatly reduce the likelihood of illness) Peace Lily is an "expert" at suppressing waste gases exhaled by the human body, such as ammonia and acetone. It can also filter benzene, trichloroethylene, and formaldehyde from the air. Its high transpiration rate can prevent the nasal mucosa from drying out and greatly reduce the likelihood of illness. This beautiful indoor plant, native to the tropical rainforests of Venezuela, is undoubtedly a miracle of medicinal biology. Below is the illustrated guide. Light conditions: a neutral plant, suitable for planting in semi-shade. Required care: keep the potting soil moist and fertilize regularly; the leaves need frequent spraying. Suitable temperature: optimum growing temperature is 20-28°C, overwintering temperature is 10°C. It can remove: ammonia, acetone, benzene, trichloroethylene, formaldehyde.
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IV. How to grow Aglaonema commutatum 'Silver Queen' (known for its unique air-purifying ability: the higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purifying ability! Therefore it is very suitable for dark rooms with poor ventilation.) This plant with grayish-white leaves likes to live in a constant-temperature environment. If watered with warm water, it can survive for a longer time. ★Suitable temperature: 16-21°C ★It can remove nicotine and formaldehyde
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V. How to grow Maidenhair Fern (it can absorb about 20 micrograms of formaldehyde per hour, so it is considered the most effective biological "purifier." People who work with paint and coatings all day, or who have smokers around them, should place at least one fern in the workplace. In addition, it can also suppress xylene and toluene released from computer monitors and printers.) Maidenhair Fern likes loose, permeable, fertile calcareous sandy loam. For potting, the growing medium can be made by mixing equal parts loam, leaf mold, and river sand. During the growing period, apply liquid fertilizer once a week, and be careful to keep the potting soil moist and the air humidity high. In dry seasons, sprinkle water on the ground around the plant frequently to raise air humidity. Maidenhair Fern likes bright, scattered light and avoids direct sunlight. If the light is too strong, the leaves will wither and yellow or even die. It likes warmth and is also cold-tolerant, with an optimum growing temperature of 13-22°C and a winter overwintering temperature of 5°C. Among ferns, Maidenhair Fern is one of the most widely cultivated species. Its stems and leaves are elegant and varied, graceful in form, and compact in size, making it very suitable for small-pot cultivation and for accenting rock bonsai. Because its black leaf stalks are slender and glossy, closely resembling human hair, and its texture is very soft and beautiful, like a young girl's soft hair, it is also called "maidenhair." Its light green, thin leaves paired with the jet-black, glossy leaf stalks make it look especially elegant and graceful. It likes shade, is highly adaptable, and is easy to cultivate, making it even more suitable for year-round indoor potted display. As a small, shade-loving foliage plant for pots, it is superior to asparagus fern in many ways. Small pots can be placed on a desk or coffee table; larger pots can be used to decorate the windowsill, hallway, or living room of a shady room, and can be enjoyed for a relatively long time. Maidenhair Fern leaves are also good cut-leaf material and dried-flower material.
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VI. How to grow Schefflera arboricola (Dwarf Umbrella Tree) (it brings fresh air to smoking households. The leaves can absorb nicotine and other harmful substances from smoke-filled air and, through photosynthesis, convert them into harmless substances of the plant's own. In addition, it can reduce formaldehyde concentration by about 9 mg per hour.) It likes semi-shade and can be enjoyed indoors for a relatively long time in a bright, well-ventilated home. If it receives about 4 hours of direct light indoors each day, it can grow well. For varieties with yellow or white markings, if the light is too weak or too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied, the markings will become blurred and lose their original characteristics. The optimum growing temperature is 15-25°C, and the winter minimum temperature should not be lower than 5°C, otherwise the leaves will drop. New leaves will appear the following spring. It grows well in environments with high air humidity and ample soil moisture, but it has strong adaptability to the dry climate of the north. Be careful that the potting soil does not lack water, otherwise a large number of leaves will drop. Under low winter temperatures, water should be appropriately controlled. During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every 1-2 weeks. Change the pot once every spring; if using a plastic container, pay attention to drainage. Prepare the potting soil with peat soil, leaf mold, perlite, and a small amount of base fertilizer. Fine sandy soil can also be used for potting. Pruning does not require major cutting. If the lower leaves have all dropped and it becomes a bare stem, cut it back by half from the top to encourage new shoots; the cut branches can also be used for cuttings, and after rooting they become new plants. If you do not want the Dwarf Umbrella Tree to grow too tall, pinch it once it reaches 30 cm, that is, remove the top bud, and after some time side branches will grow.
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VII. How to grow Spider Plant (it can absorb 95% of carbon monoxide and 85% of formaldehyde in the air.) Substrate: Spider Plant has strong adaptability to various soils and is easy to cultivate. Fertile sandy loam, humus soil, peat soil, or fine sandy soil with a small amount of base fertilizer can be used as potting soil. Propagation: usually by division; except in winter when the temperature is too low for division, it can be done in other seasons. Small plantlets with roots on the flower stems can also be cut off for potting. Watering: Spider Plant likes a moist environment, and the potting soil should be kept moist often. However, its fleshy roots can store a large amount of water, so it has strong drought resistance and will not die of dryness even if not watered for several days. In winter, when the temperature is below 5°C, water less, and do not let the potting soil become too wet, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow. Fertilizing: during the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every two weeks. For variegated varieties, apply less nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the white or yellow markings on the leaves will become less distinct. Stop fertilizing when the ambient temperature is below 4°C. Light: Spider Plant likes a semi-shaded environment and can be grown year-round in a bright room. Spider Plants cultivated outdoors can also grow well under strong direct sunlight in summer. However, Spider Plants kept indoors for a long time should avoid strong direct sunlight and need 50-70% shade. Temperature: Spider Plant is heat-tolerant. The suitable temperature is above 15°C, and the winter overwintering temperature is above 4°C. Humidity: it likes a moist environment; to keep Spider Plant fresh and green, spray and wash the leaves frequently. Pruning: remove yellow leaves at any time. Repot once every March, cutting off old roots, rotten roots, and excess fibrous roots. In early to mid-May, cut off some of the old leaves to encourage more new leaves and small spider plantlets. Hydroponics: Spider Plant can be grown hydroponically. Take the potted Spider Plant out of the pot, wash off the soil with water, cut off old leaves and old roots, place it in a hydroponic vessel, and add clear water. Do not add too much water; just enough to reach the root crown is best. For vigorous growth, add a few drops of nutrient solution (which can be homemade). The vessel can be a wide-mouthed glass bottle, glass cup, or other container. The water in the container can be changed every few days, or simply topped up with some water.
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VIII. How to grow Aloe (one pot of aloe is equivalent to nine biological air purifiers) Keeping aloe as a potted plant at home not only beautifies the living space but also allows you to harvest the freshest aloe leaves at any time for home health care. Some people say that growing a few pots of aloe at home is like hiring a resident "private doctor." Although this saying is somewhat exaggerated, it is not entirely unreasonable. Whether aloe is used as medicine to treat illness or for beauty and skin care, only fresh aloe can achieve the best results. 1. Preparation of potting soil There are many formulas for preparing aloe potting substrate. A common formula uses humus soil, garden soil, and river sand in a ratio of 4:4:2. Practice has shown that this substrate preparation is relatively suitable. Replacing river sand with sawdust reduces the weight of the substrate and increases air and water permeability, achieving good results. Sawdust from hard miscellaneous woods is preferable, and it should be piled up and fermented before use. 2. Disinfection of potting soil For potting soil used for indoor aloe cultivation, it is best to disinfect it before use to kill possible insect eggs and pathogens in the substrate. The commonly used methods are soil burning disinfection, steam disinfection, and chemical disinfection. (1) Soil burning disinfection: place the prepared mixed substrate on a stove equipped with an iron plate and heat and stir-fry it. Generally, at 80°C, 30 minutes is enough to kill harmful microorganisms and various insect eggs in the substrate. (2) Steam disinfection: place the prepared substrate in a container and steam it thoroughly. Ordinary household coal stoves and gas stoves can be used for heating and disinfection. Steam disinfection should be kept above 80°C, and steaming for 2 hours can achieve a thorough disinfection effect. (3) Chemical disinfection: commonly use 40% formalin; for each cubic meter of culture substrate, evenly sprinkle 400-500 ml of the solution into the substrate, seal and cover it flat with plastic film, leave it closed for 1-2 days, then open it, air and sun-dry it for 2-3 days, and pot it after the solution has evaporated. 3. Potting and repotting The process of planting well-grown aloe into a flower pot is called potting. Potting time: it should be done in spring and summer. An indoor temperature of 15-28°C is relatively suitable. Potting method: selecting seedlings before potting is an important key. Healthy aloe seedlings have short, thick leaves, dark green color, and more than 4 self-grown roots. When potting, first place some broken tiles at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage and aeration, then fill in some prepared substrate, place the aloe into the pot, spread the roots as much as possible, cover the roots with soil, then gently lift the seedling upward a little and press slightly so that the roots contact the substrate closely on all sides, then fill the potting soil to about 2 cm from the rim of the pot. Finally, slowly pour water thoroughly into the pot, and potting is complete. After potting, do not water too much; generally, do not water until dry, and when dry, water thoroughly. Spraying water on the aloe leaves frequently can speed up its return to green and rooting. Newly potted aloe should also not be exposed to direct sunlight and can be kept in semi-shade. Repotting: household potted aloe generally needs repotting once every 1-2 years. Spring is also preferable for repotting. When repotting, master the correct technique for removing the plant from the pot. Turn the potted plant upside down, support the potting soil with your left hand, and with the palm of your right hand sharply tap the rim of the pot several times; the pot and old potting soil will separate naturally. Then move the aloe together with the soil ball into a larger new pot, add new potting soil around the sides, then press the potting soil firmly with your hands and water thoroughly. After repotting, it still needs to be kept in semi-shade for a period, and only after it has fully recovered can it be moved to a sunny place. 4. Management and care The management of household potted aloe mainly includes three aspects: fertilizing, watering, and winter insulation. Fertilizing: during the growth process, aloe needs large amounts of elements such as carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium, and iron. Among these, carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen come from the air, while the other elements are absorbed from the potting substrate. In addition, it needs elements such as boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc, copper, and chlorine. Although the required amounts are small, they cannot be replaced by other elements. Scientific fertilizing can supplement nutrition. Watering: in winter, generally water once every 15-20 days, and spray water on the leaves if needed. Water as little as possible and keep the potting soil dry, which helps the plant overwinter safely; in spring, generally water once every 5-7 days. Do not water until dry, and when watering, water thoroughly, so the potting soil alternates between dry and moist; in summer, the temperature is higher and evaporation is greater, so water once every 2-3 days, and in addition spray water on the aloe leaves morning and evening each day. Also be careful to reduce exposure to scorching sun to lessen water loss; in autumn, the watering method for aloe is basically similar to spring, and the potting soil should alternate between dry and wet. Watering time is generally best in the early morning and evening, when the water temperature is closer to the potting soil temperature, which can avoid drastic changes in potting soil temperature caused by watering that affect root growth. Remember: "For potted aloe, better dry than wet." 5. Overwintering management (1) Temperature requirements: except in China's southern tropical regions and frost-free areas year-round, such as southern Fujian, the coastal areas of Guangdong, and Hainan, where aloe can safely overwinter naturally, other regions must strengthen overwintering and frost protection management. 5°C is the minimum safe line for aloe overwintering. Mastering the safe overwintering temperature for aloe is one of the key techniques for the success of household potted aloe. (2) Methods for increasing and maintaining temperature: in regions where winter is not very cold or where indoor heating is available, moving potted aloe indoors generally allows it to overwinter safely. When the temperature cannot be guaranteed to stay above 5°C, corresponding warmth measures must be taken. For example, dig rectangular pits (commonly called ground pits), or make a simple insulated box, etc. (3) Control watering and increase light: in winter, water as little as possible or not at all, keeping the potting soil dry. If the air is too dry, spray water on the leaves. In addition, let potted aloe receive as much sunlight as possible.
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IX. How to grow Monstera deliciosa (Swiss Cheese Plant) (it absorbs carbon dioxide at night and improves air quality) 1) Soil and repotting. Monstera deliciosa cuttings that have rooted can be transplanted into pots using fertile pond mud or black mountain soil. Because it grows rapidly, it needs repotting once a year. Repotting is best done between March and April. When repotting, remove part of the old soil and dead roots and switch to a pot one size larger. Place some hoof pieces, crushed bones, etc. at the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer, and fill in a growing medium mixed with 1/3 leaf mold, 1/3 vegetable garden soil, and 1/3 sandy soil. (2) Pay attention to the growing environment. Monstera deliciosa avoids direct scorching sunlight and is not cold-tolerant. In midsummer, it should be placed indoors or under a shade shed, not on a balcony with too strong sunlight, otherwise it easily causes dead leaves and affects ornamental value. In winter, when the temperature drops to 6°C, it should be moved indoors for warmth. 3) Keep the potting soil moist. Monstera deliciosa likes moisture and needs ample water during the growing period. For daily watering, once a day is fine; in summer, once in the morning and once in the evening; in dry weather, it is even more necessary to spray water on the leaves and sprinkle water in the growing environment to maintain air humidity and keep the leaves bright. In winter, water once every 3-4 days. Every 7-10 days, spray the leaves once with clear water close to room temperature to keep the plant evergreen and fresh and enhance its ornamental value. (4) Fertilize appropriately. Monstera deliciosa is a flowering plant that relatively likes fertilizer. From April to September, apply a dilute cake fertilizer solution once every 15 days; you can also use rotted human urine diluted with water for a light application. With sufficient fertilizer, the leaf color becomes pleasing. In addition, for newly planted and growing plants, set up supports and tie them in time; after the shape is set, pay attention to pruning the whole plant to strive for a beautiful plant shape. Let me tell you a few pest control methods, listen carefully! The main pests and diseases harming Monstera deliciosa are scale insects and gray leaf spot. (1) Scale insects. When Monstera deliciosa is cultivated indoors, if ventilation is poor, scale insects easily appear on stems and leaves, causing loss of ornamental value. When few occur, they can be caught manually; when severe, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution. (2) Monstera deliciosa gray leaf spot. It mostly starts from damaged areas at the leaf edges. It is more severe after low temperature, smoke exposure, and pest damage. After infection, the spots are initially black dots, and after expanding they become elliptical or irregular. The edges are blackish-brown and the inside is grayish-brown. Control methods: ① Strengthen plant care, remove pests in time, and cut off some diseased leaves. ② When the disease occurs, spray with 70% thiophanate at 1000 times dilution or 0.5 Bordeaux mixture.
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X. How to grow Ivy (the champion of formaldehyde absorption) Just water it when it dries out. Master the principle of not watering until dry, and watering thoroughly when you do, and you can grow it well. Ivy can also be grown in water; you can add some nutrient water and keep it in a vase, which is both hygienic and beautiful. Try it now!
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XI. How to grow Rubber Plant (a multi-talented eliminator of harmful substances) The Rubber Plant grows relatively fast! ① Light. Aside from appropriate shading in summer (30-50%), give it ample light at other times. ② Temperature. Rubber Plant likes high temperatures; the suitable temperature is between 20-32°C, and it must not go below 10°C. ③ Humidity. A high-humidity environment favors growth and will also produce aerial roots, so in addition to normal watering, spray water frequently; of course, the growing environment is best with 75-95% humidity. ④ Watering. It should not be too frequent; water thoroughly after the surface soil dries, and do not let it remain dry for a long time or water only the surface soil. ⑤ Fertilizing. A compound fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen fertilizer is fine; it can be applied in holes or as a fertilizer solution, but fertilizing must be done when the ambient temperature is between 18-30°C. ⑥ Pruning. Actually, this step is only to make the plant shape fuller or control growth; instead, it will affect its growth! ⑦ Pest and disease control. Under normal care, there are few pests and diseases. Only when kept indoors in winter may red spider mites and scale insects cause damage; spray specific pesticides for control, such as dicofol (red spider mites) and methidathion (scale insects).
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XII. How to grow Asparagus Fern (an umbrella of protection that eliminates bacteria and viruses) Asparagus Fern, also called cloud-leaf bamboo, is a perennial evergreen climbing plant in the genus Asparagus of the lily family. It is native to southern Africa. Ecological habits: Asparagus Fern is not cold-tolerant, not drought-tolerant, and likes a warm, semi-shaded environment; it avoids frost. Asparagus Fern has strict requirements for potting soil: it should be loose, fertile, well-drained, and well-aerated, and the potting soil is best neutral. It can be prepared with leaf mold, sand, and rotted fertilizer. Asparagus Fern is not cold-tolerant and also fears heat; the optimum growing temperature is between 15-25°C. It can neither withstand direct light nor stay in a shaded place for too long. Do not water too much; master the watering principle of seeing dry and seeing wet. Applying fertilizer once a month can meet its growth needs. One- to two-year-old Asparagus Fern has the greatest ornamental value. Three-year-old Asparagus Fern begins to produce branches and tendrils, so supports should be set up for it to climb. If you do not want to set up supports, you can also cut off the climbing branches at the root. Asparagus Fern is not cold-tolerant; the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
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Common problems in home flower growing:
1. Why do the tender leaves of Asparagus Fern turn scorched black at the tips when they reach a certain height, while side branches and leaves can still grow? The main reasons for the scorched tips of Asparagus Fern tender leaves are overly dry potting soil, insufficient fertilizer, or fertilizer damage. In addition, Asparagus Fern is originally a climbing plant, and when it grows tall it must have a support or string for it to climb up; otherwise, because the top shoots bend and droop, the supply of water and nutrients is affected, and similar conditions can also occur. 2. What diseases is Asparagus Fern prone to? How should they be prevented and controlled? ① If the small branches of Asparagus Fern turn yellow but do not fall off, it is mainly caused by insufficient nutrients in the potting soil and malnutrition. In some cases, it is because the potting soil is hard and compacted, aeration is poor, and root vitality declines, affecting the normal growth of the plant. Besides repotting in spring with a growing medium rich in organic matter, also loosen the surface of the potting soil frequently and pay attention to strengthening fertilization. ② If the leaf tips of Asparagus Fern wither and yellow or fall off, it is mainly caused by too little watering, relatively dry potting soil, or relatively low humidity. Keep the potting soil moist often, spray water on the plant frequently, with the water temperature preferably the same as room temperature, and place Asparagus Fern in a place with high air humidity. During the growing season, appropriately apply mixed fertilizer to make the plant strong and increase its resistance. ③ If the tips of Asparagus Fern branches are dark yellow or yellow-green, it is caused by strong light or excessive watering. Move it to a shaded place or to a window with curtains, avoid direct strong light, and also be careful not to water too much. ④ If the roots of Asparagus Fern rot and the branch tips scorch and yellow and fall off, it is mainly caused by attack by strong winds in hot summer or long-term waterlogging in the flower pot. Therefore, in summer, special attention must be paid to guarding against thunderstorms or typhoons. 3. Causes and control methods for yellowing leaves of potted Asparagus Fern? a) Light too strong. Asparagus Fern likes semi-shade and avoids strong light. In summer, if it is placed in direct sunlight, the branches and leaves will wither and yellow. Once this happens, move the flower pot to a shady place, and at the same time spray water on the branches and leaves frequently to increase relative humidity; most plants with less severe damage can recover. b) Improper watering. Although Asparagus Fern likes moisture, it is very afraid of waterlogging in the pot. Too much water easily causes root rot, while too little water easily dries the leaf tips. If root rot occurs, control watering and loosen the soil frequently. For dry leaf tips, first water a small amount, then gradually increase it, while spraying water on the branches and leaves. c) Insufficient nutrients. Asparagus Fern likes fertile soil. If the soil is not changed and fertilizer is not added for a long time, nutrients will be in short supply, and the branches and leaves will turn yellow. At this time, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once a week, and water and loosen the soil in time. d) Improper fertilizing. If the topdressing concentration is too strong or unfully rotted fertilizer is applied, fertilizer damage is easily caused, leading to dry and falling leaves. Once fertilizer damage occurs, take the pot out, remove the fertilizer, then rinse the soil ball with clear water and replace it with new growing medium. e) Poor winter management. Asparagus Fern likes warmth and should be placed in a sunny spot in winter. If it is kept in a place with insufficient light for a long time at this time, plus poor ventilation and cold, the branches and leaves easily wither and yellow. At this time, move it to a warm place with sunlight, appropriately control watering, and it can gradually recover. f) Infection by pests and diseases. Once Asparagus Fern is infected by pests such as scale insects, the branches and leaves can also wither and yellow, and control should be carried out promptly.
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XIII. How to grow Broadleaf Lady Palm (it eliminates heavy metal pollution and carbon dioxide) Broadleaf Lady Palm, also called Guanyin bamboo, tendon-head bamboo, palm bamboo, and dwarf lady palm, is an evergreen foliage plant in the genus Rhapis of the palm family. Broadleaf Lady Palm is a clumping shrub with upright stems, 1-3 m tall. The stems are slender like fingers, unbranched, with leaf nodes, wrapped in leaf sheaths with brown reticulate fibers. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, palmate, deeply divided almost to the base, with 3-12 segments, 20-25 cm long and 1-2 cm wide; the leaf stalks are slender, about 8-20 cm. The spadix is axillary, with small, pale yellow flowers, very numerous, unisexual, dioecious. The flowering period is April-May. The berry is spherical, and the seed is spherical. Broadleaf Lady Palm is native to Guangdong, Yunnan, and other places in China, and also occurs in Japan. There are more than 20 species in the same genus, mainly distributed in Southeast Asia. It often grows abundantly on hillsides and beside ditches in shaded, moist thickets. Cultivated forms include large-leaf, medium-leaf, and fine-leaf Broadleaf Lady Palm, as well as variegated Broadleaf Lady Palm. It likes a warm, humid, semi-shaded, and well-ventilated environment, fears scorching sun, and is slightly cold-tolerant, able to tolerate low temperatures around 0°C. Broadleaf Lady Palm can be propagated by sowing and division; home cultivation is mostly by division. For sowing, use loose, permeable soil as the substrate, generally a mix of leaf mold and river sand, etc. Before sowing, the seeds can be treated by soaking in warm water (soak in 30-35°C warm water for two days), and sowing is done when the seeds begin to sprout. Because germination is generally uneven, cover the seeds with soil relatively deeply after sowing. Generally, they germinate 1-2 months after sowing, and the germination rate can reach about 80%. When the cotyledons of the seedlings reach 8-10 cm long, they can be transplanted. It is worth noting that when transplanting, 3-5 plants must be planted as one clump to facilitate survival and growth. Division propagation is generally carried out in spring together with repotting. Use a sharp knife to divide the original clump with many tillers into several clumps; when dividing, damage the roots as little as possible and do not damage the buds, so that each clump contains more than 8-10 plants; otherwise, growth is slow and the ornamental effect is poor. After division and potting, place it in semi-shade, keep it moist, and spray water on the leaves frequently to prevent the leaves from withering and yellowing. After new branches sprout, move it to a sunny place for care, and then carry out normal management. For potted Broadleaf Lady Palm, use a substrate mixed with equal parts leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand, and add an appropriate amount of base fertilizer when planting. During the vigorous growing period from May to September, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month; keep the potting soil moist, better wet than dry, but it must not be waterlogged, otherwise root rot easily occurs. In autumn and winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering. During the growing season, provide shade, especially avoiding scorching sun exposure in summer, otherwise the leaves turn yellow and the plant grows slowly and becomes short; generally maintain about 50% shade. Broadleaf Lady Palm requires a well-ventilated environment for growth; if ventilation is poor, scale insects easily occur. If only a few occur, scrape them off manually in time and control with omethoate at 800 times dilution, while also paying attention to ventilation and timely pruning of dead branches and fallen leaves. Broadleaf Lady Palm has a compact and elegant plant shape, upright clumps, delicate leaf shapes, and dark green, glossy leaves. It has both a tropical charm and the elegance of bamboo, and is an important indoor foliage plant. It is very shade-tolerant and is suitable both as a small- to medium-sized potted plant for general household indoor display and as a large potted plant for indoor arrangement in large buildings; it is one of the large indoor foliage plants. In a bright room it can be enjoyed for a long time, and in a darker room it can be enjoyed continuously for 3-4 weeks. 2. Hydroponic method for Broadleaf Lady Palm. It belongs to the genus Rhapis in the palm family, also known as Guanyin bamboo. It is native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places. Features: evergreen clumping shrub. The stem is cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, bearing brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm fiber. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, leathery, dark green and glossy, palmate with deep divisions, and 4-10 segments. Dioecious. Habits: it likes a warm, shady, moist, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growing temperature is 20-30°C, and in winter it should be kept above 4°C; it can tolerate short-term low temperatures around 0°C. Propagation: generally by division combined with repotting. Choose a large, dense clump, first take the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut as few roots as possible, and keep a certain plant shape for each divided plant, then repot. After watering thoroughly, place it in a semi-shaded, moist place and spray water on the leaves frequently. After growth resumes, it can be transferred to normal care. Seeds are sown in pots in autumn after they mature, moved into a greenhouse in winter, and emerge the following spring. Key points for hydroponic care: 1: It is shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak, yellow leaves easily appear, and when ventilation is poor, parasites breed. 2: During the growing period, spray water on the leaves frequently. Method for obtaining hydroponic material: potted plants should have their roots washed. The root system of Broadleaf Lady Palm is relatively hard in texture and is not easy to rot after hydroponics, but new roots sprout slowly, requiring as long as one and a half months.
Precautions
Pay attention to indoor temperature!
Plant cultivation
How many varieties of Clivia are there? Which Clivia variety is the best? Illustrated appreciation of Clivia varieties
Clivia varieties are mainly divided into the original introduced varieties and later improved varieties produced by hybridization. Common varieties are roughly Grand Victory, Monk, Dye Factory, Oil Craftsman, Yellow Technician, Japanese Orchid, Sparrow Orchid, and others. Among them, the Monk variety was even the breeding foundation for many later improved varieties.
I. How many varieties of Clivia are there
1. Grand Victory
Originally a palace variety, it later spread among the people and after Liberation was handed over by the old gardener Zhang Youdi to Victory Park. To commemorate the victory of the War of Resistance Against Japan, it was named Grand Victory. This variety has medium-wide leaves, a wedge-shaped base, short tips, and dark green glossy leaf surfaces with a delicate feel; the flower scape is thick and large, the flowers are large and bright red, and they bloom neatly; the berries are spherical. On its basis, "Second Victory" and others were later bred.
2. Monk
One of the early famous varieties, it was cultivated for many years by the old monk of Huguo Bore Temple in Changchun, and after being passed out it was called "Monk." This variety has wide leaves, acute tips, leaf sheaths in a fish-scale shape, relatively obvious but not protruding veins, poor glossiness, and dark green color; the flowers are purplish-red, and the fruit is oblong. Common improved varieties bred on the basis of this variety include the following:
1) Round-head Monk type
This variety is one of the varieties currently loved by flower-growing enthusiasts; its leaves are short and thick, and the tips gradually become round.
2) Round-head Short-leaf
This variety has short, wide leaves with round tips, is upright and straight, with raised veins, light green leaf color, bright gloss, brilliant flower color, and neat plant shape. It is an excellent tool orchid and one of the currently popular varieties.
3) Short-leaf
The leaves are medium-wide and short, with round, glossy tips, protruding veins, good head markings, and dark green color; the flower shape is fan-like, orange-red; the fruit is spherical. It is a tool orchid for breeding short-leaf types.
4) Wax-membrane Flower Face
The leaf veins are clear, the gloss is like wax, the color is relatively light, and the orchid texture is delicate.
5) Horizontal Orchid
The leaf length-to-width ratio is 1:1, hence the name "Horizontal Orchid." It has a small, exquisite body and strong stability.
3. Dye Factory
It was named after being grown by Chen Guoxing, manager of Changchun Dongxing Dye Factory. Its leaves are relatively wide, with gradually pointed tips, thin and arched leaves, dark green color, inconspicuous veins, and relatively poor gloss; the flowers are bright red; the fruit is ovate.
4. Oil Craftsman
One of the early excellent varieties. The leaves are wide, gradually pointed, green and glossy; the leaves are long and obliquely upright, with raised veins; the flowers are large and orange-red; the fruit is spherical. Using it as the seed parent, varieties such as "Little Oil Craftsman" were also bred.
5. Yellow Technician
It was bred by Technician Huang Yongnian of the Changchun Institute of Biological Products, hence the name "Yellow Technician." Its leaves are wide with short tips, light and yellowish in color, good in stiffness, glossy, and the veins are raised in a "field"-shaped pattern; the flowers are orange-red, with golden stars sparkling on the back of the flowers, and they bloom neatly; the fruit is spherical.
6. Japanese Orchid
Introduced from Japan in the mid-1980s, its leaf length-to-width ratio is 2:1. The leaves are flat and symmetrical, with round tips, arranged neatly, coarse orchid texture, inconspicuous veins, not strongly raised, and relatively poor glossiness.
7. Sparrow Orchid
This is a bud-sport variety of Clivia, named because the leaf tips are acute and resemble a sparrow's small beak.
II. Which Clivia variety is the best
Clivia is classified by leaf shape, leaf color, leaf veins, flower shape, etc. into treasure grade, fine grade, excellent grade, good grade, ordinary grade, and inferior grade. The endless emergence of updated Clivia varieties means that the best Clivia variety is always changing. So far, the generally recognized best Clivia varieties include Colored Clivia, Anshan Orchid, Buddha Light Orchid, Changchun Orchid, and others. These are all expensive varieties.
III. Illustrated appreciation of Clivia varieties
Because there are many Clivia varieties and different classifications according to different standards, what I am giving now are only appreciation pictures of the varieties mentioned above. Friends, enjoy the feast for your eyes!
Grand Victory
Round-head Monk
Round-head Short-leaf
Short-leaf
Wax-membrane Flower Face
Horizontal Orchid
Dye Factory
Oil Craftsman
Yellow Technician
Japanese Orchid
Sparrow Orchid
Dear friends, do you feel that Clivia has dazzled your eyes? Clivia varieties are basically similar, and truly distinguishing them still depends on the experience you gain from cultivating them yourself!