Why Broadleaf Lady Palm Is Not Suitable for Growing at Home

1. Insufficient humidity

Broadleaf lady palm has high humidity requirements. When the air is too dry, leaf scorch often occurs. This is especially true for the slender-leaved lady palm.

2. Lack of fertilizer

The formation of chlorophyll in leaves requires an adequate supply of nitrogen. Without fertilization for a long time, leaves will turn yellow due to nutrient deficiency, but the yellowing often develops gradually from bottom to top. Fertilize with dilute fertilizer frequently, in small amounts and multiple times.

3. No repotting for a long time

If the pot is not changed for a long time, the soil becomes nutrient-deficient and compacted. Roots struggle to grow, so the plant absorbs nutrients poorly and grows poorly. Leaves will turn yellow and develop scorched edges.

4. Alkaline soil

Broadleaf lady palm prefers slightly acidic soil. When the potting soil becomes alkaline, leaves tend to turn yellow and scorch.

5. Overwatering

When overwatering causes the soil to remain excessively wet for a long time, it affects the plant's absorption. During the growing season from May to September, broadleaf lady palm needs more water; keep the soil moist but not waterlogged.

From the above, we know that broadleaf lady palm is not unsuitable for keeping at home; rather, at home we need to pay attention to its care techniques, otherwise it is difficult to grow it well. In fact, there are many benefits to keeping broadleaf lady palm at home. Let's learn about them together.

Broadleaf Lady Palm Rhapis excelsa: Broadleaf Lady Palm Guide - How to Grow and How to Propagate Broadleaf Lady Palm

Common indoor plant cultivation methods

Key points of this article

Flower pots, watering can, soil, fertilizer, flower scissors...

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1. Cultivation methods of Alocasia macrorrhizos (has the effect of removing dust from the air; cannot be placed in the bedroom)

1. Temperature. Alocasia macrorrhizos can only grow well in an environment not lower than 18°C. If the temperature is lower than 18°C, Alocasia macrorrhizos will enter a dormant state and stop growing. 2. Fertilization. Alocasia macrorrhizos likes fertilizer; it should be fertilized monthly. 3. Watering. In summer, Alocasia macrorrhizos needs more water, but not excessively; it is suitable to be sometimes dry and sometimes wet, and there must be no standing water in the soil, otherwise the tubers will rot. In winter it goes dormant, so water less and stop fertilizing. 4. Sunlight. Alocasia macrorrhizos likes shade; do not let direct sunlight hit it. If Alocasia macrorrhizos becomes "wilted," it is mainly due to insufficient fertilization, so pay attention to topdressing. Care: Alocasia macrorrhizos likes a warm, humid and slightly shaded environment, but during the flowering period it needs sufficient sunlight, otherwise the spathe will be greenish and the quality will be affected. It must be ensured 3-5 hours of light per day, otherwise the petioles will elongate and the ornamental value will be affected. Alocasia macrorrhizos is not strongly cold-tolerant and should be moved into a greenhouse in mid-October. In summer, it needs to be shaded and frequently sprayed with water to cool and moisturize. Alocasia macrorrhizos likes moist, fertile soil, that is, what is often called "heavy fertilizer and heavy water"; during the growing period it needs more watering.

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2. Cultivation methods of African jasmine (the volatile oils it produces have a significant bactericidal effect. It can make people relax, help sleep, and also improve work efficiency)

1. Temperature. African jasmine grows well in a warm climate environment; the optimum growth temperature is 18°C to 32°C. When the summer temperature is above 38°C, plant growth will be inhibited; in some areas of South China, ground planting can overwinter outdoors, while potted plants north of the Yangtze River require a winter greenhouse temperature not lower than 3°C to 5°C. 2. Light. African jasmine likes sunlight, and its native environment is mostly semi-shaded. For ground planting as garden landscaping trees in South China, it is best to choose a site with side shade; for potted plants north of the Yangtze River, full sunlight can be accepted in spring and autumn, while in summer it is necessary to build a shade frame or move it under the dense shade of a large tree, at least avoiding direct sunlight for several hours around noon; it is especially worth noting that from June to July, after long rainy days, when a clear day comes and the temperature suddenly rises with very strong light, shade work must be done well to prevent young new shoots and tender leaves from being scorched. For potted plants in public places, relatively sufficient scattered light is required, or they should be placed near a window; they should not be too dark, otherwise the leaves will lose green and turn yellow or fall off. 3. Moisture. Whether ground planted or potted, sufficient moisture is required, but the roots must not have standing water, otherwise root rot easily occurs. In spring and autumn, watering should be done to keep the pot soil moist; in the plum rain season, be careful to prevent water accumulation; in the scorching summer, spray water once in the morning and once in the afternoon to increase humidity and lower temperature; in winter, for indoor potted plants, it is appropriate to keep the pot soil slightly moist, and around noon when the temperature is relatively higher, spray an appropriate amount of water on the leaves. In spring, summer and autumn, under normal fertilization, if the lower leaves of a potted plant turn yellow and fall off, it is very likely due to root rot from water accumulation, and the pot should be turned and the soil changed in time; in summer, if watering has been neglected and the new tender shoots wilt and droop, do not immediately pour a large amount of water on the pot soil, but first spray some water on the leaves, and after the leaves recover slightly, give the pot soil an appropriate amount of water. 4. Soil. In the southern region, cultivation requires a loose, fertile, well-drained sandy loam planting site. For potted plants in the north, a mix of 7 parts leaf mold, 1 part river sand, 1 part composted organic fertilizer, and 1 part fermented sawdust can be used. During the growing season, loosen the soil of potted plants once a month, always keeping the root area in a well-ventilated state. In addition, for potted plants, the soil can be changed once every 1 to 2 years. 5. Fertilizer. During the growing season, potted plants should be topdressed once a month with thin decomposed cake fertilizer water; before flowering in May, apply a phosphorus-potassium fertilizer once to promote flowering; after autumn, supplement with 1 to 2 more applications of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer to pass the winter safely. For potted plants in northern areas, to prevent leaf yellowing, add 0.2% ferrous sulfate when watering and fertilizing during the growing season. When planting in the ground, apply sufficient base fertilizer; at the end of autumn, dig trenches around the outer roots and bury cake fertilizer, 0.5 to 1 kg per plant;

Pest and disease control 1. Diseases ① Anthracnose mostly occurs on tender branches and leaves, with nearly circular to irregular depressed spots, brown edges, gray-white to gray-brown centers, and sparse small black dots on the surface, which are its acervuli. Control method: at the early stage of the disease, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 800 times dilution plus 25% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution, or 25% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution, alternately spraying once every 10 days for 3 to 4 consecutive times. ② Sunscald disease. In the severe summer heat, when shade construction is inadequate, the tender shoots and young leaves of potted African jasmine are prone to sunscald, shown as many gray-white or light white scorched spots on the leaves. Control method: use shade netting for shade and adjust the position appropriately; in high-temperature and drought seasons, appropriately increase the frequency and amount of watering, and if necessary spray water on the leaves; for plants that have already suffered scorch, promptly move them under a shade shed, cut off the scorched tender shoots and young leaves, and strengthen water and fertilizer management so that the plants recover health as soon as possible. 2. Pests. African jasmine occasionally also suffers from leaf-feeding pests, such as Atractomorpha sinensis, causing more holes or notches on the leaves. Spray 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution in time to kill them.

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3. Cultivation methods of peace lily (suppresses waste gases exhaled by the human body, such as ammonia and acetone. At the same time, it can also filter benzene, trichloroethylene and formaldehyde in the air. Its high evaporation rate can prevent nasal mucosa dryness and greatly reduce the possibility of illness) Peace lily is an "expert" at suppressing waste gases exhaled by the human body, such as ammonia and acetone. At the same time, it can also filter benzene, trichloroethylene and formaldehyde in the air. Its high evaporation rate can prevent nasal mucosa dryness and greatly reduce the possibility of illness. This beautiful indoor plant native to the tropical rainforests of Venezuela is undoubtedly a miracle in medicinal biology. The following is an illustrated guide. Light conditions: neutral plant, suitable for planting in semi-shade. Required care: keep the pot soil moist and fertilize regularly; the leaves need frequent spraying. Suitable temperature: optimum growth temperature 20-28°C, overwintering temperature 10°C. Can remove: ammonia, acetone, benzene, trichloroethylene, formaldehyde.

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4. Cultivation methods of Aglaonema commutatum (known for its unique air purification ability: the higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purification ability! Therefore it is very suitable for dark rooms with poor ventilation.) This plant with gray-white leaves likes to live in a constant-temperature environment. If watered with warm water, it can survive for a longer time. ★Suitable temperature: 16-21°C ★Can remove nicotine, formaldehyde

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5. Cultivation methods of maidenhair fern (can absorb about 20 micrograms of formaldehyde per hour, so it is considered the most effective biological "purifier." People who deal with paint and coatings all day, or who have smokers around them, should place at least one pot of fern in the workplace. In addition, it can also suppress xylene and toluene released from computer monitors and printers.) Maidenhair fern likes loose, permeable, fertile calcareous sandy loam. When potting, the culture soil can be made by mixing loam, leaf mold and river sand in equal amounts. During the growing period, apply liquid fertilizer once a week, and take care to always keep the pot soil moist and the air humidity relatively high. In dry seasons, water can often be sprinkled on the ground around the plant to increase air humidity. Maidenhair fern likes bright scattered light and avoids direct sunlight. If the light is too strong, the leaves will wither and yellow or even die. It likes warmth and is also cold-tolerant; the optimum growth temperature is 13-22°C, and the winter overwintering temperature is 5°C. Among ferns, maidenhair fern is one of the most widely cultivated species. Its stems and leaves are elegant and varied, its form is graceful, and its plant type is small, making it very suitable for small pot cultivation and for accenting rock bonsai. Because the black petioles are slender and glossy, closely resembling human hair, and its texture is very soft and beautiful, like a young girl's soft hair, it is also called "maiden's hair"; its light green thin leaves paired with shiny black petioles appear especially elegant and graceful. It likes shade, has strong adaptability, is easy to cultivate, and is even more suitable for indoor potted viewing all year round. As a small potted shade-loving foliage plant, it is superior to asparagus fern in many respects. Small pots can be placed on desks and tea tables; larger pots can be used to decorate windowsills, corridors or living rooms in shaded rooms, and can be appreciated for a relatively long time. Maidenhair fern leaves are also good cut-leaf material and dried flower material.

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6. Cultivation methods of Schefflera arboricola (brings fresh air to smoking households. The leaves can absorb nicotine and other harmful substances from smoke-filled air, and through photosynthesis convert them into harmless substances of the plant itself. In addition, it can reduce formaldehyde concentration by about 9 milligrams per hour.) It likes semi-shade and can be viewed for a relatively long time indoors in a bright and well-ventilated place. If indoors it receives about 4 hours of direct light per day, it can grow well. For varieties with yellow or white markings, if the light is too weak or nitrogen fertilizer is applied excessively, the markings will become blurred, thereby losing their original characteristics. The optimum growth temperature is 15-25°C, and the winter minimum temperature should not be lower than 5°C, otherwise the leaves will fall off. New leaves will appear the following spring. It grows well in an environment with high air humidity and sufficient soil moisture, but it has strong adaptability to the dry climate of the north. Note that the pot soil must not lack water, otherwise a large number of leaves will fall off. Under low winter temperatures, water should be appropriately controlled. During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every 1-2 weeks. Change the pot once every spring; if using a plastic container, pay attention to drainage. The pot soil can be prepared with peat soil, leaf mold, perlite and a small amount of base fertilizer. Fine sandy soil can also be used for potting. Pruning does not require major pruning. If the lower leaves have all fallen off and it has become a bare stem, cut it back from the upper half to encourage new branches to sprout; the cut branches can also be used for cuttings and will become new plants after rooting. If you do not want the Schefflera arboricola to grow too tall, you can pinch it once when it reaches 30 cm, that is, remove the head by wiping off the top buds, and after some time side branches will grow.

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7. Cultivation methods of spider plant (can absorb 95% of carbon monoxide and 85% of formaldehyde in the air.) Substrate: Spider plant has strong adaptability to various soils and is easy to cultivate. Fertile sandy loam, humus soil, peat soil, or fine sandy soil plus a small amount of base fertilizer can be used as potting soil. Propagation: Usually propagated by division; except in winter when the temperature is too low and division is unsuitable, it can be done in other seasons. Small plantlets with roots on the flower stems can also be cut and potted. Watering: Spider plant likes a humid environment, and the pot soil should be kept moist often. However, the fleshy roots of spider plant can store a large amount of water, so it has strong drought resistance and will not dry out and die if not watered for several days. In winter, when below 5°C, water less; do not let the pot soil become too wet, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow. Fertilization: During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once every two weeks. For variegated varieties, apply less nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the white or yellow markings on the leaves will become less obvious. Stop fertilizing when the ambient temperature is below 4°C. Light: Spider plant likes a semi-shaded environment and can be cultivated year-round in a bright room. Spider plants cultivated outdoors can also grow well under strong direct sunlight in summer. However, spider plants cultivated indoors for a long time should avoid strong direct sunlight and need 50-70% shading. Temperature: Spider plant is tolerant of high temperatures. The suitable temperature is above 15°C, and the winter overwintering temperature is above 4°C. Humidity: It likes a humid environment. To keep spider plant fresh and green, the leaves can be sprayed and washed frequently. Pruning: At ordinary times, cut off yellow leaves at any time. In March each year, the pot can be turned once, cutting off old roots, rotten roots and excess fibrous roots. In early to mid-May, cut off some old leaves of the spider plant, which will promote the sprouting of more new leaves and small spider plants. Hydroponics: Spider plant can be hydroponically grown. Take the potted spider plant out of the pot, wash the soil off with water, cut off old leaves and old roots, place it in a hydroponic vessel, and add clean water. Do not use too much water; just enough to reach the root crown. For vigorous growth, add a few drops of nutrient solution to the water (can be homemade). The vessel can be a wide-mouth glass bottle, glass cup or other container. The water in the container can be changed every few days, or simply add some water.

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8. Cultivation methods of aloe (one pot of aloe is equivalent to nine biological air cleaners) A household potted aloe can not only beautify the room, but also be picked at any time to obtain the freshest aloe leaves for home health care use. Some people say that growing a few pots of aloe at home is like hiring a resident "private doctor." Although this saying is somewhat exaggerated, it is not entirely unreasonable. Whether aloe is used as medicine to treat illness or for beauty and skin care, only fresh aloe can achieve the best effect. 1. Preparation of pot soil. There are many formulas for potted aloe substrate. A common formula uses humus soil, garden soil and river sand in a ratio of 4:4:2. Practice has proved that this substrate formula is relatively suitable. Replacing river sand with sawdust reduces the weight of the substrate and increases air and water permeability, and can achieve good results. Sawdust from hard miscellaneous wood is preferable, and it should be piled for fermentation before use. 2. Disinfection of pot soil. For pot soil used for indoor aloe cultivation, it is best to disinfect it before use to kill possible insect eggs and pathogens in the substrate. Commonly used methods include soil burning disinfection, steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. (1) Soil burning disinfection: Put the prepared mixed substrate on a stove equipped with an iron plate and heat and stir-fry it. Generally, at 80°C for 30 minutes, harmful microorganisms and various insect eggs in the substrate can be killed. (2) Steam disinfection: Put the prepared substrate in a container and steam it thoroughly. Ordinary household coal stoves and gas stoves can be used for heating and disinfection. Steam disinfection should be maintained above 80°C; steaming for 2 hours can achieve a thorough disinfection effect. (3) Chemical disinfection: Commonly use 40% formalin; for each cubic meter of culture substrate, evenly sprinkle 400-500 ml of the liquid onto the substrate, seal and cover it flat with plastic film, leave it closed for 1-2 days, then open it, air-dry and sun it for 2-3 days, and pot it after the liquid has evaporated. 3. Potting and repotting. The process of planting cultivated aloe into a flower pot is called potting. Potting time: should be carried out in spring and summer. Indoor temperature of 15-28°C is relatively suitable. Potting method: selecting seedlings before potting is an important key. Healthy aloe seedlings have short and thick leaves, dark green color, and more than 4 self-generated roots. When potting, first place some broken tiles at the bottom of the pot to facilitate drainage and ventilation, then fill in some prepared substrate, put the aloe into the pot, try to spread the root system, cover the roots with soil, then gently lift the seedling upward and press slightly so that the root system contacts the substrate closely up, down, left and right, then fill the pot soil to about 2 cm from the pot rim. Finally, slowly pour water through the pot, and potting is complete. After potting, do not water too much; generally water only when dry, and when watering, water thoroughly. Frequently spraying water on aloe leaves can accelerate the return to green and rooting of aloe. Newly potted aloe should also not be exposed to direct sunlight and can be maintained in a semi-shaded place. Repotting: Household potted aloe generally needs repotting once every 1-2 years. Spring is also preferable for repotting. When repotting, master the correct technique for removing the plant from the pot. Turn the potted plant upside down, support the pot soil with the left hand, and strike the pot rim sharply several times with the palm of the right hand; after several strikes, the pot and old pot soil will separate naturally. Then move the aloe together with the soil ball into a larger new pot, add new pot soil around the pot, then press the pot soil firmly with your hands and water thoroughly. After repotting, it still needs to be maintained in a semi-shaded place for a period, and only after it has fully recovered can it be moved to a sunny place. 4. Management and care. The management of household potted aloe mainly includes three aspects: fertilization, watering and winter insulation. Fertilization: During the growth process, aloe needs large amounts of elements such as carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium and iron. Among them, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen come from the air, while other elements are absorbed from the potting substrate. In addition, it needs boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc, copper, chlorine and other elements. Although the required amounts are not large, they cannot be replaced by other elements. Scientific fertilization can supplement nutrients. Watering: In winter, generally water once every 15-20 days; if needed, spray water on the leaves. Water as little as possible and keep the pot soil dry, which is beneficial for the plant to overwinter safely; in spring, generally water once every 5-7 days. Do not water when not dry; when watering, water thoroughly, so the pot soil is both dry and wet; in summer, the temperature is relatively high and evaporation is large, so water once every 2-3 days; in addition, spray water on aloe leaves every morning and evening. Also be careful to reduce exposure to the scorching sun and reduce water loss; in autumn, the watering method for aloe is basically similar to spring, and the pot soil should be allowed to be sometimes dry and sometimes wet. The time of watering is generally best in early morning and evening, when the water temperature is closer to the pot soil temperature, which can avoid sudden changes in pot soil temperature caused by watering and affecting root growth. Remember: "Potted aloe, better dry than wet." 5. Overwintering management. (1) Temperature requirements: In the tropical regions of southern China and frost-free areas year-round, such as southern Fujian, the coastal areas of Guangdong, and Hainan, aloe can overwinter safely and naturally; in other regions, overwintering and freeze protection management must be strengthened. 5°C is the minimum safe line for aloe overwintering temperature. Mastering the safe overwintering temperature for aloe is one of the key techniques for the success or failure of household potted aloe. (2) Methods of increasing and maintaining temperature: In regions where winter is not very cold or where indoor heating is available, moving potted aloe indoors generally allows safe overwintering. When the temperature cannot be guaranteed to be above 5°C, some corresponding warmth measures must be taken. For example, dig rectangular pits (commonly called soil pits), make a simple insulation box, etc. (3) Control watering and increase light: In winter, water as little as possible or not at all, and keep the pot soil dry. If the air is too dry, spray water on the leaves. In addition, let the potted aloe see as much sunlight as possible.

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9. Cultivation methods of Monstera deliciosa (absorbs carbon dioxide at night and improves air quality) 1) Soil and repotting. When Monstera deliciosa cuttings have rooted and are transplanted into pots, fertile pond mud or black mountain soil can be used. Because it grows rapidly, it needs repotting once a year. Repotting time is suitable from March to April. When repotting, remove part of the old soil and dead roots, and change to a pot one size larger. Put some hoof pieces, broken bones and other base fertilizer at the bottom of the pot, then fill in culture soil mixed with leaf mold, vegetable garden soil and sandy soil at 1/3 each. (2) Pay attention to the growing environment. Monstera deliciosa avoids direct sunlight and is not cold-tolerant. In midsummer it should be placed indoors or under a shade shed, and cannot be placed on a balcony with excessively strong sunlight, otherwise it is easy to cause withered leaves and affect ornamental value. When the winter temperature drops to 6°C, it should be moved indoors for warmth. 3) Keep the pot soil moist. Monstera deliciosa likes moisture and needs sufficient water during the growing period. For daily watering, once a day is acceptable; in summer, once in the morning and once in the evening; when the weather is dry, it is even more necessary to spray water on the leaves and sprinkle water in the maintenance environment to keep the air and leaves fresh. In winter, water once every 3-4 days. Every 7-10 days, spray the leaves once with clean water close to room temperature to keep the plant evergreen and fresh and improve ornamental value. (4) Fertilize appropriately. Monstera deliciosa is a flower that relatively likes fertilizer. From April to September, apply thin cake fertilizer water once every 15 days; decomposed human urine diluted with water can also be applied thinly. With sufficient fertilizer, the leaf color will be pleasing. In addition, for newly planted and growing plants, set up supports and tie them in time, and after shaping, pay attention to pruning the whole plant, striving for a beautiful plant shape. Now I will tell you a few more pest prevention methods, listen carefully! The main pests and diseases harming Monstera deliciosa are scale insects and gray leaf spot. (1) Scale insects. When Monstera deliciosa is cultivated indoors, if ventilation is poor, scale insects easily appear on stems and leaves, causing loss of ornamental value. When few occur, manual capture can be used; when severe, spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution. (2) Monstera deliciosa gray leaf spot. It mostly starts from damaged areas at the leaf margins. The disease is more severe after low temperature, smoke, or pest damage. After being affected, the lesions are initially black spots, and after expansion become elliptical or irregular. The edges are dark brown and the inside is gray-brown. Control methods: ① Strengthen plant care, remove insects in time, and cut off some diseased leaves. ② When the disease occurs, spray with 70% thiophanate at 1000 times dilution or 0.5 Bordeaux mixture.

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10. Cultivation methods of ivy (the champion of formaldehyde absorption) Just water it when it is dry. Master the principle of not watering when not dry, and watering thoroughly when watering, and it can be grown well. Ivy can also be water-cultured. You can add some nutrient water and keep it in a vase, which is both hygienic and beautiful. Try it quickly!

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11. Cultivation methods of rubber tree (an all-rounder for eliminating harmful substances) The rubber tree still grows relatively fast! ① Light. Apart from appropriate shading in summer (30-50%), give sufficient light at other times. ② Temperature. The rubber tree likes high temperatures; the suitable temperature is between 20-32°C and must not be lower than 10°C. ③ Humidity. A high-humidity environment is beneficial to growth and will also produce aerial roots, so in addition to normal watering, it should also be sprayed frequently. Of course, it is best if the growing environment has 75-95% humidity. ④ Watering. It should not be too frequent; it is better to water thoroughly after the surface soil dries, and it must not be kept dry for a long time or only have the surface soil watered. ⑤ Fertilization. A compound fertilizer mainly based on nitrogen fertilizer is sufficient; either hole application or pouring fertilizer liquid is acceptable, but fertilization must be done when the ambient temperature is between 18-30°C. ⑥ Pruning. Actually this step is only to make the plant shape fuller or control growth, but it will instead affect it growing larger! ⑦ Pest and disease control. Under normal care, there are few pests and diseases. Only when maintained indoors in winter may red spider mites and scale insects cause harm. Special pesticides can be sprayed for control, such as dicofol (red spider mites) and methidathion (scale insects).

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12. Cultivation methods of asparagus fern (a protective umbrella that eliminates bacteria and viruses) Asparagus fern, also called cloud bamboo, is a perennial evergreen vine plant of the genus Asparagus in the Liliaceae family. Native to southern Africa. Ecological habits: Asparagus fern is not cold-tolerant, not drought-tolerant, and likes a warm, semi-shaded environment; avoid frost. Asparagus fern has strict requirements for pot soil: it requires loose, fertile, well-drained, well-aerated soil, and the pot soil is best neutral. It can be prepared with leaf mold, sand and decomposed fertilizer. Asparagus fern is not cold-tolerant and also fears heat; the optimum growth temperature is between 15-25°C. It can neither withstand direct light nor stay in a shaded place for too long. Do not water too much; master the watering principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet. Fertilizing once a month can meet growth needs. One-to-two-year-old asparagus fern has the greatest ornamental value. Three-year-old asparagus fern begins to produce branches and vines, and supports should be set up for it to climb. If you do not want to set up supports, you can also cut off the climbing branches at the root. Asparagus fern is not cold-tolerant; the overwintering temperature is 10°C.

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Common questions about home flower growing:

1. Why do the young leaves of asparagus fern turn scorched black at the tips once they reach a certain height, while branches and leaves can still grow from the sides? The main reasons the young leaf tips of asparagus fern dry up and scorch are dry potting soil, insufficient fertilizer, or fertilizer burn. In addition, asparagus fern is originally a climbing plant, and when it grows tall it must have a stake or string to climb up; otherwise, because the growing tip bends and droops, the supply of water and nutrients is affected, and a similar condition can occur. 2. What diseases is asparagus fern prone to, and how should they be prevented and treated? ① The small branches of asparagus fern turn yellow but do not drop off, mainly because of insufficient nutrients in the potting soil and poor nutrition. In some cases it is because the potting soil is hard and compacted, aeration is poor, and the vigor of the root system declines, which affects the plant's normal growth. Besides repotting in spring with a nutrient-rich growing medium, you should also regularly loosen the surface of the potting soil and pay attention to increasing fertilization. ② The leaf tips of asparagus fern turn yellow and dry or drop off, mainly because of too little watering, the potting soil being on the dry side, or the relative humidity being too low. You should keep the potting soil moist at all times and frequently spray water over the plant; the water temperature is best the same as room temperature, and the asparagus fern should be placed in a spot with high air humidity. During the growing season, apply a balanced fertilizer appropriately to make the plant vigorous and increase its resistance. ③ The branch tips of asparagus fern turn dull yellow or yellow-green because of strong light exposure or overwatering. It should be moved to a shaded spot or to a window with curtains to avoid direct strong light, and at the same time take care not to water too much. ④ The roots of asparagus fern rot and the branch tips scorch and drop off, mainly because of being hit by strong winds in the hot summer season, or because the pot holds water for long periods. Therefore in summer special care should be taken to guard against thunderstorms or typhoons. 3. What are the causes of yellowing leaves and branches in potted asparagus fern, and how can it be prevented and treated? a) Light too strong. Asparagus fern likes partial shade and dislikes strong light; in summer, if it is placed in direct sunlight, the branches and leaves will wither and yellow. Once this happens, move the pot to a cool spot and frequently spray the branches and leaves with water to increase relative humidity; most plants that are not seriously damaged can recover. b) Improper watering. Although asparagus fern likes moisture, it greatly fears waterlogged pots; too much water easily causes root rot, while too little water easily dries out the leaf tips. If root rot occurs, watering should be controlled and the soil frequently loosened. For dry leaf tips, water lightly at first and then gradually increase the amount, while also spraying water on the branches and leaves. c) Insufficient nutrients. Asparagus fern likes fertile soil; if the soil is not changed and fertilized for a long time, the nutrient supply falls short of demand and the branches and leaves turn yellow. At this point, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once a week, and water and loosen the soil promptly. d) Improper fertilization. If the top-dressing concentration is too strong or unfully decomposed fertilizer is applied, it easily causes fertilizer burn and leads to dry, dropping leaves. Once fertilizer burn occurs, take the pot out, remove the fertilizer, then rinse the root ball with clean water and replace it with fresh growing medium. e) Poor winter care. Asparagus fern likes warmth and in winter should be placed in a sunny spot; if at this time it is kept for a long period in a place with insufficient light, plus poor ventilation and cold, the branches and leaves easily wither and yellow. At this point move it to a warm spot with sunlight and appropriately reduce watering, and it can gradually recover to normal. f) Infection by pests and diseases. Once asparagus fern is infested by pests such as scale insects, the branches and leaves will also wither and yellow, and should be controlled promptly.

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13. How to grow broadleaf lady palm (removes heavy metal pollution and carbon dioxide) Broadleaf lady palm, also called Guanyin bamboo, jintou bamboo, palm bamboo, or dwarf lady palm, is an evergreen foliage plant of the genus Rhapis in the palm family. Broadleaf lady palm is a clumping shrub with upright stems, 1-3 m tall. The stems are slender as fingers, unbranched, with leaf nodes, wrapped in brown netted-fibrous leaf sheaths. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, palmate, deeply divided almost to the base, with 3-12 segments, 20-25 cm long and 1-2 cm wide; the leaf stalks are slender, about 8-20 cm. The spadix is axillary, with small, pale yellow flowers, very numerous, unisexual, with male and female flowers on separate plants. The flowering period is April-May. The berry is spherical, and the seed is spherical. Broadleaf lady palm is native to Guangdong, Yunnan and other places in China, and is also found in Japan. There are more than 20 species in the genus, mainly distributed in Southeast Asia. It often grows abundantly on hillsides and beside gullies in shady, damp thickets; cultivated forms include large-leaf, medium-leaf and fine-leaf broadleaf lady palm, as well as variegated broadleaf lady palm. It likes a warm, humid, partially shaded and well-ventilated environment, fears blazing sun, and is slightly cold-tolerant, tolerating low temperatures of around 0°C. Broadleaf lady palm can be propagated by seed and by division; home growing is mostly by division. For seeding, use a loose, well-draining soil as the substrate, generally a mix of leaf mold and river sand. Before sowing, the seeds can be treated by soaking in warm water (soak in 30-35°C warm water for two days); sow when the seeds begin to sprout. Because germination is generally uneven, cover the seeds a little deeper after sowing. Generally they germinate 1-2 months after sowing, and the germination rate can reach about 80%. When the seedling cotyledons reach 8-10 cm long, they can be transplanted. It is worth noting that when transplanting, 3-5 plants must be planted as a clump to aid survival and growth. Division propagation is generally carried out in spring together with repotting; cut the original clump with many suckers into several clumps with a sharp knife, injuring the roots as little as possible and not damaging the buds, so that each clump contains more than 8-10 plants, otherwise growth is slow and the ornamental effect is poor. After division and potting, place in a partially shaded spot, keep moist, and frequently spray water on the leaf surface to prevent the leaves from withering and yellowing. After new branches sprout, move to a sunny spot for care, then carry out normal management. For potted broadleaf lady palm, use a substrate made by mixing equal parts leaf mold, garden soil and river sand, and add an appropriate amount of base fertilizer when planting. During the vigorous growing period from May to September, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month; the potting soil should preferably be moist, better wet than dry, but it must not become waterlogged or the roots will easily rot. In autumn and winter, appropriately reduce the amount of watering. During the growing season, provide shade, especially avoiding blazing sun in summer, otherwise the leaves turn yellow and the plant grows slowly and stays short; generally keep the shading level at about 50%. Broadleaf lady palm requires a well-ventilated environment for growth; if ventilation is poor, scale insects easily occur. If only a few occur, remove them by hand promptly and control them with 800-times omethoate solution, while also paying attention to ventilation and timely pruning of dead branches and fallen leaves. Broadleaf lady palm has a compact and elegant plant form, upright clumps, delicate leaf shapes, and dark green, glossy leaves; it has both a tropical charm and the grace of bamboo, and is an important indoor foliage plant. It is very shade-tolerant, suitable both as a small or medium potted plant for general indoor display and appreciation at home, and as a large potted plant for indoor arrangement in large buildings; it is one of the large indoor foliage plants. In a bright room it can be enjoyed for a long time, and in a darker room it can be enjoyed continuously for 3-4 weeks. 2. How to grow broadleaf lady palm in water. It belongs to the genus Rhapis in the palm family, also called Guanyin bamboo. It is native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan and other places. Characteristics: Evergreen clumping shrub. The stem is cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, bearing brown coarse-fibrous leaf sheaths like palm fiber. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, leathery, dark green and glossy, palmately deeply divided, with 4-10 segments. Male and female flowers are on separate plants. Habits: It likes a warm, shady, damp and well-ventilated environment. The suitable temperature for growth is 20-30°C, and in winter it should be kept above 4°C; it can tolerate short periods of low temperature around 0°C. Propagation: Generally by division combined with repotting; choose a large, dense clump, first lift the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps, cutting as few roots as possible during division, and keeping a certain plant form for each divided plant, then repot, water thoroughly, and place in a partially shaded, moist location, frequently spraying water on the leaf surface; after growth resumes, normal care can begin. Sowing: After the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately after collection, move them into a greenhouse in winter, and they emerge the following spring. Key points of water-culture care: 1: It is shade-tolerant, but when the light is too weak it easily produces yellow leaves, and when ventilation is poor it breeds parasites. 2: During the growing period, frequently spray water on the leaf surface. How to obtain material for water culture: It is best to wash the roots of a potted plant. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture and is not prone to rot after water culture, but new roots sprout slowly, requiring as long as a month and a half.

Precautions

Pay attention to indoor temperature!

Plant growing