Detailed Explanation of Key Techniques for Planting and Managing Jujube Trees

Orchard Site Selection

In principle, jujube trees have strong environmental adaptability and low soil requirements, and can be planted in saline-alkali land or wasteland. However, if grown as an economic crop, to achieve higher yields and better quality, it is best to choose a better growing environment for the plants. An orchard site that is flat and open, well-drained, with fertile, loose soil and good aeration is ideal. If you are in mountainous or hilly areas, you should plant jujube trees on sunny slopes with abundant sunlight and thick, fertile soil.

Propagation Methods

The main propagation method for jujube trees is grafting. When grafting, use sour jujube as the rootstock and use secondary branches from 1-2 year old bearing mother branches as scions. The bark-insertion grafting method is generally used, which is not affected by rootstock thickness, has a high scion utilization rate, and a high grafting survival rate. The best grafting time for jujube saplings is from before bud break to the peak new shoot growth period.

Planting Time

There are two suitable seasons for planting jujube trees: spring and autumn. For spring planting, pay attention to one point: it must be done before the jujube tree buds break. Jujube trees bud relatively late, generally in April. Autumn planting is around November, after leaf fall, which is more suitable.

Planting Methods

Before planting, cut off excessively long roots, and cut the trunk to 40 cm to reduce water evaporation and improve the survival rate. According to the pre-designed plan, first open a trench about 35 cm deep, place the jujube seedling at the mid-slope position on one side of the trench, dig a planting hole 60 cm in length, width and height, and when filling soil to 2/3 depth, gently lift the jujube seedling upward so that the roots point downward. At this point, firm the soil for the first time, then fill the hole level, and firm again. Plant upright, following the sequence of first burying, second treading, third lifting the seedling, and fourth firming. After planting jujube saplings, be sure to irrigate thoroughly with settling water the same day to ensure the survival of the jujube saplings.

Cultivation Patterns

There are mainly two cultivation patterns for jujube trees: dwarf high-density type and intercropping type. The former is suitable for varieties that bear fruit early and have a small tree form, with a plant-row spacing of 2 m x 3 m. The latter is suitable for varieties with a larger tree form and late fruiting, with a suitable row spacing of 8-10 m and plant spacing of 3-5 m.

That's all for today's tips on jujube tree planting and management. We hope it can be of some help to those of you who love growing jujube trees, and we wish your jujube trees will ultimately be full of vitality and laden with fruit!

Jujube Tree Planting Techniques and Cultivation Management Key Points

Jujube, also known as zaozi, dazao, cizao, guanzao, etc., is a deciduous small tree of the genus Ziziphus in the family Rhamnaceae. It originated in China and is now commonly cultivated in Asia, Europe and the Americas. It is rich in vitamin C and vitamin P. Besides being eaten fresh, it can often be made into candied and preserved fruits such as honey dates, red dates, smoked dates, black dates, wine dates and ya dates, and can also be made into date paste, date flour, date wine, date vinegar, etc. It has high planting value.

Growth Habits of Jujube Trees

Jujube trees grow in mountainous areas, hills or plains below 1700 m in altitude. They are a warmth-loving fruit tree. The average annual temperature in production areas is around 15°C. The temperature during bud break needs to be 13-15°C, during shoot extension and leaf expansion 17°C, during flowering and fruit set 22-25°C, and during fruit ripening 18-22°C. Jujube trees are relatively tolerant of drought and waterlogging, but during the flowering period they require relatively high air humidity, otherwise pollination and fruit set are unfavorable. In addition, jujube has strong light requirements and is relatively sensitive to light. It has strong adaptability to soil and is tolerant of poor soil and saline-alkali conditions. However, it fears wind, so when establishing an orchard, care should be taken to avoid wind gaps.

Propagation Methods of Jujube Trees

1. Grafting: The main grafting methods are woody bud grafting and shoot grafting. The key points of grafting technique can be summarized in six essential characters. "Fresh": keep the scion fresh without water loss. "Flat": the cut surface of the scion must be flat. "Aligned": the cambium of the scion and rootstock must be aligned. "Tight": after grafting, wrap tightly and securely. "Fast": operate quickly. "Moist": after grafting, cover with soil or put on plastic bags to maintain humidity. At the same time, 5-7 days before grafting, irrigate the rootstock nursery to make bark separation easier.

2. Root cutting: Select own-rooted plants of superior varieties. Before bud break, dig a trench 30-40 cm wide and about 50 cm deep around the outer canopy, cut off roots with a diameter of 2 cm or less, apply organic fertilizer in the root-cutting trench, and backfill immediately. During the growing season, root suckers can emerge. In the following spring, dig out the root suckers, treat them with ABT rooting powder or other hormones, replant them in the nursery, and cultivate strong seedlings.

3. Root cuttings: In late autumn, in combination with autumn plowing, collect roots from vigorous jujube trees, cut them into root segments 20-30 cm long and 1-4 cm in diameter, and store them in sand in a cellar. In the following spring, open trenches for raising seedlings, insert the root segments into the trench at a 45-degree angle, with 2 cm exposed above the ground, and water immediately after insertion. Treating the root segments with rooting hormones and covering with plastic film gives better results.

4. Cutting: Before cutting, first moisten the sand bed. The moisture standard is that after holes are made in the sand bed, the holes do not collapse. When cutting, use a small wooden stick to make holes in the sand bed while dipping the cuttings in slurry and inserting them. The diameter of the small holes should be larger than the diameter of the slurry-coated cuttings, so as to avoid the medicinal solution being squeezed off by the hole walls and reducing efficacy. The cutting depth is about 3 cm. Too deep easily causes basal rot; too shallow causes the cuttings to topple and the roots to be exposed after rooting. After cutting, the holes should be pressed tight so that the river sand and cuttings are closely combined.

Jujube Tree Planting Techniques

1. Orchard site selection: Jujube trees have relatively strong adaptability and are not strict about soil conditions. Various places can make full use of wasteland and saline-alkali land for cultivation. However, in order to achieve relatively high economic benefits and produce high-quality, pollution-free products, it is best to choose an orchard site where air, water sources, soil and other environments are not polluted, the terrain is flat and open, drainage conditions are good, soil permeability and aeration are good, the groundwater level is relatively high, and the soil is fertile. When planting jujube trees in mountainous and hilly areas, choose sunny slopes with deep soil layers; shady slopes are not suitable for planting.

2. Planting varieties: There are many varieties of jujube trees. A high-quality variety must have good tree vigor, strong resistance to pests and diseases, fruit that resists cracking, good fruit shape, good fruit color, high nutrient content, and good taste. At present, excellent varieties used for drying include Jinsifeng, Jinsimi, Wuhehong, Wuhe No. 1, Wuhe No. 3, Zanhuang Dazao, etc. Among early-maturing varieties, excellent varieties for fresh eating include Zaocuiwang, Jingwei Xianzao, Zaoshu Lizao, etc., and excellent varieties for processing include Lizao, Zanhuang Dazao, etc. Late-maturing varieties are mainly used for fresh eating, and high-quality varieties include Jingwei Daxuezao, Dongzao, etc. New and special varieties include Mopanzao and Hul-uzao with peculiar fruit shapes, and Tailihong and Longxuzao with peculiar tree forms.

3. Cultivation patterns: The first is dwarf high-density cultivation, mainly suitable for varieties that bear fruit early and have a small tree form, with a plant-row spacing of 2 m × 3 m or 3 m × 2 m. The second is intercropping cultivation, mainly suitable for varieties with a medium or larger tree form and later fruiting, with a row spacing of 8-10 m and a plant spacing of 3-5 m. Other crops can be interplanted between the trees in the early stage.

4. Cultivation time: Jujube trees can be planted throughout the entire dormant period from leaf fall to germination the following year, and are divided into spring planting and autumn planting. According to many years of cultivation experience, when planting 2-year-old and older root-sucker seedlings, spring-planted ones that are immediately watered thoroughly can easily achieve a survival rate above 90%, while autumn-planted ones are unlikely to reach a survival rate above 90% even if watered after planting. However, autumn-planted ones can still achieve a survival rate above 70% even without watering after planting, while spring-planted ones without watering have a survival rate clearly inferior to autumn planting.

Pruning Techniques for Jujube Trees

1. Pruning of jujube trees is suitable in winter, when the trees are dormant and there are many dead branches on the tree that should not remain. If not cut off in time, it is very unfavorable to the growth of jujube trees the following year. Pruning jujube trees in winter has little adverse effect because the trees respond relatively slowly to pruning, and at the same time it can stimulate growth the following year. Second, jujube tree pruning can also be done in summer. In summer, jujube branches grow very vigorously. To avoid nutrient consumption caused by excessive branch growth, excessively grown jujube branches must be cut off. Only in this way can high yields of jujube trees be ensured.

2. Jujube tree pruning techniques need to follow some basic principles, such as the principle of "promote early, control later, block upward and release downward." Specifically, this roughly means that in the early growth stage of jujube trees, that is, during years 1-2, do not prune them as much as possible, but once the canopy reaches the height we want, we must prune and control them, that is, block upward growth and appropriately guide horizontal development.

3. There are many pruning methods for jujube trees, and different pruning objectives use different methods. Common jujube pruning methods include propping branches, bending branches, ring girdling, tying, bud removal, pinching, bending and twisting shoots, etc. Each method or means is used to achieve a certain purpose. Jujube tree pruning technique is a relatively specialized skill. It is not enough for us to only know some theory; we must also have some practical experience. The specific situation of each jujube tree differs somewhat, and the methods we use are different. To learn jujube tree pruning techniques, we must fully combine theoretical knowledge from books with our own practical operations.

Jujube Tree Planting Management

1. Fertilizer and water management: According to rainfall conditions, water once each in mid-May, early June and late June, so that the seedlings are not drought-stressed even if the weather is dry. After passing the seedling recovery stage in late July, apply 150 g of urea in holes per plant. In addition, after the seedlings sprout and unfold leaves, spray fertilizer on the leaves every 10-15 days with 0.4% urea plus 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate.

2. Pest and disease control: That is, in late May and early to mid-June, spray once each with 2000 times monocrotophos or a mixture of 50% clofentezine (Apollo) plus 50% methamidophos, which can effectively control pests such as red spider mites, mirids and jujube leaf gall mites.

3. Inspection and replanting: After the seedlings sprout and unfold leaves, investigate seedling survival. According to the situation of dead and missing plants, replant seedlings with soil in autumn or before germination the following year. In addition, in the year of planting, jujube seedlings sometimes show a false death phenomenon of not sprouting. The branches of falsely dead plants are soft, and the bark color is green and glossy. For falsely dead seedlings, promptly irrigate and cultivate the soil to encourage them to sprout and grow as soon as possible.

4. Flower and fruit retention: To make jujube trees bear fruit early and bear more fruit, first, pinch and top during the flowering period to reduce nutrient consumption. Second, spray 10-15 mg/kg gibberellin or Zaohuabao solution during the flowering period. Each time, 4-5 weeks before full fruit ripening (white ripening stage), carefully spray 2-3 times with 50 mg/kg naphthaleneacetic acid or 10-20 mg/kg fruit-setting agent solution, with an interval of 10-15 days between sprays.

Jujube Tree Pest and Disease Control

1. Jujube witches' broom disease

[Damage] Jujube witches' broom disease is a destructive disease of jujube trees. After infection, the entire plant shows abnormal growth, mainly manifested as flowers turning into leaves, clustered branches and leaves, yellowing and curling of young leaves into spoon shapes, and clustered root suckers. Young trees die within 1-2 years of infection, and large trees gradually wither and die 3-6 years after infection. The disease is mainly transmitted through grafting or by piercing-sucking leafhopper pests in the field.

[Control] (1) Remove diseased plants and diseased root suckers to eliminate the source of infection. (2) Use disease-free scions to propagate seedlings by grafting. (3) Choose varieties with strong disease resistance, strengthen cultivation management, and promote vigorous tree growth. (4) Control vector pests by spraying 20% fenpropathrin 3000 times solution or 10% imidacloprid 3000 times solution.

2. Jujube geometrid

[Damage] The larvae damage young buds, leaves and flower buds. It occurs 1 generation per year, overwintering as pupae in soil 10-15 cm deep around the canopy. The following year in late March, they emerge as adults. From mid-to-late April to mid-May, larvae hatch and climb the trees to cause damage. From late May to mid-June, they begin to enter the soil to pupate, oversummer and overwinter.

[Control] (1) In winter, in combination with deep plowing, pick out and kill overwintering pupae. (2) In early March, tie a plastic film about 10 cm wide around the trunk base 20-25 cm above the ground to prevent female adults from climbing the tree to lay eggs. Manually kill adults under the tree every morning and evening, or spray pyrethroid pesticides around the trunk to kill newly hatched larvae. (3) Spray 25% diflubenzuron 2000 times solution on the tree for control.

3. Jujube leaf roller

[Damage] The larvae damage leaves, flowers and fruits. The larvae often bind leaves into rolls and bore into the fruit from the fruit stalk to feed on the flesh. This pest occurs 3 generations per year, overwintering as pupae in cocoons under old scaly bark and in crevices. The following year, adults begin to emerge in late March. The peak period of the first-generation larvae is in early May, the second-generation larvae in late June to early July, and the third generation in early to mid-August.

[Control] (1) Focus on controlling the first-generation larvae, that is, when new shoots of jujube trees grow to about 3 cm, alternately use 90% trichlorfon 1000 times solution and 20% fenvalerate 3000 times solution, which gives good results. Spray 25% diflubenzuron No. 3 1500-2000 times solution for control, and during the flowering and fruiting period spray biological pesticides such as Bacillus thuringiensis and Serratia marcescens 100-200 times solution. (2) From early September, tie grass bundles on the trunk to attract larvae to pupate, and collect and burn them in winter. (3) In winter, scrape off old scaly bark to reduce overwintering pest sources. (4) During the adult occurrence period, use black light lamps to trap and kill adults.

How Can Fruit Tree Planting Improve Cultivation Success Rate?

How Can Fruit Tree Planting Improve Cultivation Success Rate?

1. Trim the root system. After fruit trees are dug out from the nursery, the root system has already been injured. To reduce the injured area, it should be trimmed. Use scissors to remove part of the main root, and cut large lateral roots flat at the injured site. Do not cut at an angle, as wounds heal more easily otherwise.

2. Trim branches and leaves. After the root system is cut, it cannot absorb enough water from the soil for the aboveground branches and leaves to transpire, so cut off 2/3 of the branches and leaves to reduce transpiration and thereby increase the survival rate.

3. Plant at the right time. Spring planting should be carried out after the soil thaws and before the seedlings sprout. Planting too early or too late is unfavorable to seedling survival. Because tree species have different characteristics, planting times should differ. Peach, apricot, plum, etc. are suitable for early planting, while jujube, etc. are suitable for late planting. Generally, planting immediately after the soil freezes is appropriate.

4. Choose high-quality seedlings. The quality of seedlings is one of the important factors affecting the survival rate after planting. Choose seedlings with high technical standard specifications as much as possible, such as those free of pests and diseases, vigorous in growth, with well-developed roots, and short internodes. Before planting, carefully select seedlings, remove unqualified weak seedlings, leggy seedlings, diseased and injured seedlings, etc., and organize the seedlings.

5. Planting techniques. First, apply sufficient base fertilizer. In each planting hole, apply 1 kg of Leili seaweed fertilizer, 2 kg of Aoli bacterial fertilizer and 0.2 kg of Aoli biological organic bacterial agent per plant, mix well with soil, and then plant. Second, soak roots in nutrient solution. Before transplanting, place the root system in a nutrient solution prepared in the ratio of 15 mL Genwang, 25 mL Jikeshan and 10 L water and soak for 30 minutes, which can promote healing of root wounds, accelerate root growth recovery, and improve the survival rate. Third, remove the film at the graft union. If the grafting film is not removed, the lower and upper parts of the graft union will thicken, while growth at the graft union will not be synchronized, and it is easy to break at the graft union in strong winds. Fourth, spread the root system evenly. When placing the seedling into the planting hole, spread the root system flat and make it extend naturally to ensure normal root growth. Fifth, pour enough settling water. Place the seedling into the planting hole, cover with a thin layer of fine soil, pour enough settling water so that roots and soil are closely connected, and then cover with another layer of soil. Sixth, pay attention to the graft union. When planting citrus fruit trees, the graft union should be exposed, while for bayberry, plum, peach, Chinese chestnut and other fruit trees, the graft union should not be exposed, so that they can grow and develop normally. Seventh, cover the tree disk. After planting, cover the surface soil around the tree base with rice straw, thatch, crop straw or pig and cattle manure to maintain soil moisture and help recovery growth.

6. Cover with plastic film. After planting, rake the surrounding area finely with the planted seedling as the center into a shallow pot shape, and cover with plastic film 80-100 cm square. This can effectively increase soil temperature, resist drought and preserve soil moisture, and promote early and vigorous sprouting.

7. Fertilizer and water management. After planting fruit trees, apply fertilizer water once each on the 10th and 20th days, which is key to restoring root growth. Ten days after planting, root callus tissue begins to recover. At this time, prepare a solution in the ratio of 15 mL Genwang, 15 mL Jikeshan, 0.25 kg high-nitrogen water-soluble fertilizer and 50 L water, and pour 1 L per plant, which can improve root activity and shorten the seedling recovery period. Twenty days after planting, prepare a solution in the ratio of 0.25 kg high-nitrogen water-soluble fertilizer, 23 g 3% metalaxyl · hymexazol and 50 L water, and pour 1 L per plant, which can promote vigorous sprouting of new shoots. Until August, apply 0.3% high-nitrogen water-soluble fertilizer once each month, and the seedling survival rate reaches 95%.

8. Trunk heading. According to cultivation requirements, cut at the trunk heading height where there are 3-5 plump buds. The cut should be smooth and free of splitting, and should be treated with a sealing agent or wrapped with plastic film to prevent water loss and drying out. In areas with frequent spring winds, support stakes should be set up to prevent the tree from swaying.

9. Post-planting management. For newly planted seedlings, follow the management principle of "promote early, control later," irrigate promptly according to fruit tree growth and soil moisture conditions, and apply additional fertilizer at the right time. At the same time, pay attention to pest and disease control during the seedling stage and other work. Create a good environmental condition for seedling growth as much as possible.