20 tips for growing flowers at home, making it hard to kill them even if you try

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

With economic development, flower growing has become common in every household, but most people are not well versed in it, especially when the seasons change, the flowers they grow easily die. Today the Hui Nong Wang editor is specifically sharing 20 tips for growing flowers at home, guaranteed that whatever flower you grow will survive.

Growing flowers at home looks easy but is actually difficult, especially when the seasons change, and a perfectly good flower may die if you are not careful. So how can we make sure the flowers we grow stay alive and well? Follow the Hui Nong Wang editor and learn 20 tips for growing flowers at home! Once you learn them, you will find it hard to kill them even if you try!

Once autumn arrives, the weather starts turning hot and cold unpredictably, and with one slip, the flowers at home die off. So today Huahua introduces some little tricks for growing flowers. As long as you learn them, the flowers at home will be hard to kill even if you try!

Choose the right spot

If you want your flowers to grow well, you first need to know what kind of flowers the environment at home is best suited for.

1. South-facing balcony with full sun:

A south-facing balcony with plenty of light is best for growing flowers that like direct sunlight, meaning the more sun these flowers get, the better they grow. For example, moss rose, blue plumbago, petunia, and orange jasmine.

2. East-facing balcony with half-day sun:

An east-facing balcony only gets sun in the morning, and once noon comes the sun is gone, so you can grow flowers that are short-day or slightly shade-tolerant. For example, azalea, camellia, and Christmas cactus.

3. West-facing balcony with half-day sun:

A west-facing balcony only gets sun in the afternoon, and in the hot summer it is also prone to scorching sun. Therefore, you can grow some climbing plants on a west-facing balcony, which not only provide shade but also cool the air. For example, wisteria, morning glory, and cypress vine.

4. North-facing balcony, living rooms with good indoor indirect light, etc.:

A north-facing balcony rarely sees the sun, so just grow some shade-tolerant flowers. For example, asparagus fern, Swiss cheese plant, and lucky bamboo.

How to tell if a plant is short of water

If you want the flowers at home to grow well, watering is key. How to tell whether the flowers at home need watering is also a very important aspect.

1. Visual inspection

The Hui Nong Wang editor thinks the simplest method is visual inspection. Look at the color of the potting soil with your eyes. If it is grayish-white, then it is time to water; if the soil is dark brown, it basically means the potting soil is still moist and does not need watering for now.

2. Lifting the pot

There is another very simple way to judge, which is lifting the pot. Lift up the flower pot, and if it feels much lighter, then it is time to water.

Add something to the water to make flowers grow well

If you want flowers to grow better, just watering with plain water definitely will not do. Add something to the water when watering to supplement some nutrients, so the flowers grow better!

1. Add some rice-washing water

The Hui Nong Wang editor thinks the simplest thing is to add some rice-washing water. Put the water left after washing rice into a plastic bottle, then leave it in the sun for a period of time, open the lid every 3-5 days to let it breathe, and once it has fermented, just dilute it with water at 1:20 and water the flowers with it.

2. Add some fish intestine water

Fish intestines contain very rich phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Fermenting fish intestines into fertilizer provides very rich nutrition for flowers such as Chinese rose and bougainvillea that bloom a lot and have long flowering periods. Put the fish intestines you buy into a plastic bottle, add some water, and leave it in the sun to ferment into fertilizer. It will be ready in about 2-3 months.

Add something at the bottom of the pot so flowers do not get root rot

Sometimes the flowers at home die for no apparent reason, and it is because the roots have rotted. So when repotting, add something at the bottom of the pot, and the flowers will not get root rot.

1. Line the bottom of the pot with loofah sponge

The vascular bundles in a loofah sponge have very large gaps. Lining the bottom of a flower pot with it gives excellent water drainage and air permeability, absolutely preventing root rot! In addition, loofah sponge can also be used for raising seedlings, and the effect is also very good!

2. Line the bottom of the pot with broken bricks and tiles

If you want to prevent root rot, you can also line the bottom of the pot with some broken bricks and tiles. Pick up a brick outside, bring it home and smash it into small pieces, then soak them in hot water and leave them in the sun to dry. Once dry, they can be used to line the bottom of the pot.

Pruning is very important

If you want flowers to grow well, pruning is essential. Whether it is pruning spent flowers after blooming or cutting off some weak branches and diseased branches on the stems, it can all prevent the flowers from consuming too many nutrients, thus making the plant grow more robust.

1. Prune spent flowers

2. Prune diseased branches, weak branches, and leggy branches

Pay attention to pests and diseases

When growing flowers, you must pay attention to the condition of the leaves and flowers. If you find symptoms such as black spots or white powdery patches on the leaves, you can basically conclude it is pests or diseases. At this time you can make your own insecticide, such as garlic water or chili water, or sprinkle mosquito coil ash on the surface of the flower pot, all of which can kill insects.

Make your own mini potted plants

Actually, besides growing flowers, many vegetables and fruits can also be grown into mini potted plants.

1. Vegetable potted plants

Whether it is carrot, Chinese cabbage, onion, sweet potato, or potato, they can all be made into mini potted plants. Put the vegetable in a bottle filled with water, and within a week it will sprout and grow.

2. Fruit potted plants

The passion fruit, fig, lemon, peach, and so on that we usually eat can all be grown at home!

3. Potted plants from seeds collected in the wild

It is autumn now, and fellow flower lovers can also go to the wild to collect seeds. Whether it is Buddhist pine, goldenrain tree, wild jujube, or chestnut, taking them home and growing a mini potted plant is very beautiful!

Make your own flower pots

Besides buying flower pots for growing flowers, many homemade flower pots are actually very beautiful too.

1. Coconut shell flower pot

Saw a coconut open, scoop out the coconut meat inside, then poke a few small drainage holes in the bottom, and it can be used as a flower pot.

2. Cloth bag flower pot

Do not casually throw away the burlap bags left at home. After filling them with soil, they can be used as flower pots for growing flowers.

3. Metal bucket flower pot

An iron bucket at home that already leaks, after being repainted with paint, becomes a very beautiful retro flower pot.

4. Basketball as a flower pot

A basketball at home that is broken can be cut open straight down the middle, planted with flowers and hung up, and it becomes a very beautiful flower pot.

The above are the 20 tips for growing flowers at home compiled by the Hui Nong Wang editor. Flower lovers, take a look quickly. Once you learn them, the plants you grow are guaranteed to stay alive and well!

How to grow jasmine: cultivation methods for jasmine

The editor today shares with everyone how to grow jasmine. The cultivation methods for jasmine are a fairly comprehensive article on jasmine cultivation, very worth reading and learning for flower lovers who like jasmine. The editor also hopes this article will be helpful to everyone growing jasmine.

How to grow jasmine

Jasmine likes a warm, humid environment with plenty of sunlight, and grows best in a well-ventilated, semi-shaded environment. The most suitable soil is slightly acidic sandy soil containing a large amount of humus. Most varieties are afraid of cold and drought, and are not tolerant of frost, waterlogging, or alkaline soil. When the winter temperature is below 3°C, the branches and leaves are prone to frost damage, and if it lasts a long time, they will die.

Jasmine loves fertilizer very much. As long as it is cared for properly, a potted jasmine can bloom three times a year. If there is insufficient fertilizer and nutrients, it will not bloom again after blooming once. If jasmine is managed well, it can bloom continuously from the end of May to the beginning of November. The key is pruning, sunlight, and the control of fertilizer and water.

Cultivation methods for jasmine

1. Watering

In growing jasmine, learning to water is considered the entry into jasmine cultivation. Many people's jasmine grows poorly, such as leaves turning yellow, being sparse, or having large leaves with sparse nodes, or blooming little or not blooming at all, or not surviving the winter, and by the next year either withering or growing even worse and more misshapen, and so on.

The above symptoms show: first, improper watering at ordinary times, mainly not understanding which season needs more watering and which season needs less, and in the seasons needing more watering, how to water in stages within a day, and in the seasons needing less watering, how to water less? How to observe whether watering is needed, and so on.

These are all maintenance steps with a certain level of technical content and are also meticulous. If jasmine is overwatered, it easily gets root rot, and laypeople often cannot see whether its roots have rotted, and still think watering is insufficient, still think nutrition is inadequate, and apply fertilizer to it, and with that the jasmine's little life is finished! Watering jasmine less generally will not kill it. There is a gardening proverb: “Dry jasmine, wet chrysanthemum.” This is the summary of experience from flower growers since ancient times, so it is said: learning to water is considered the entry into jasmine cultivation.

How to manage watering:

1. Look at the potting soil, which should be dry when it should be dry and wet when it should be wet; the potting soil should not be so dry that it turns white and crusted, nor so wet that it becomes mud.

2. Tap the flower pot with your finger and listen to the sound. A crisp, pleasant sound means the potting soil is already dry; a dull, muffled sound means the potting soil still contains water.

Usually broken pot pieces and the like are placed at the bottom of the flower pot to help drainage and air permeability. Foam blocks used as a cushion at the bottom of the pot are a new type of material, and can also be considered a new thing. You cannot define it as good or bad, it is just using materials according to what is available. It is just like how wounds used to be bandaged with hemostatic powder and gauze, and after adhesive bandages appeared, people used materials according to what was available, the same principle.

2. Fertilizing

The three elements of plant growth: “soil, sunlight, water.” With these three elements, a plant can survive and grow. Then, if you want a plant to grow sturdy, with luxuriant branches and leaves and abundant flowers and fruit, you must know the three elements of plant nutrients: “nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium.” Growing jasmine is the same. You must understand these two “three elements.” Often beginners at growing jasmine, because they do not understand at first the essence of the plant nutrient “three elements,” casually fertilize the jasmine. This not only fails to achieve the effect but actually backfires, making a jasmine that was originally growing acceptably grow worse and worse.

Once you learn to fertilize jasmine, then you have moved up a step from the beginner stage of jasmine cultivation and entered an important maintenance stage in the next step. When jasmine is fertilized appropriately, its satisfactory effect goes without saying. The jasmine will certainly have abundant flowers and luxuriant leaves, sturdy branches, and a moderate tree shape, and its ability to resist disease, disasters, severe cold, and intense heat will also need no worry from its owner.

Why can't home potted jasmine be fertilized hastily in spring and early summer?

(1) Many fellow enthusiasts are quite concerned about this issue, but often after believing the words of flower sellers, or introductions on the internet, in books, magazines, and so on, they fertilize the jasmine at home at what seems the right time, hoping that after receiving fertilizer their jasmine will grow faster, bloom more, and have sturdier branches. The result is either wrinkled, shriveled leaves, or large leaves with sparse nodes, or only growing branches and leaves with few flowers. And at this time the owner still thinks the jasmine lacks fertilizer and keeps applying all kinds of fertilizer to it, and the result is still unsatisfactory. In this way they lose confidence in growing jasmine. This is the reason why you cannot fertilize hastily.

(2) Fertilizing must be done when the potting soil is dry, and it should be done from the afternoon to before evening. Generally, home jasmine care should not fertilize in the morning or at noon. The next morning, give the fertilized jasmine a small amount of clear water. This is called watering “return water.” This step is very important and is a key move for whether the jasmine can absorb the fertilizer applied. For fertilizer, fully fermented human waste water is best, followed by fully fermented cake fertilizer (soybean cake and sesame cake) water, and again (when conditions do not allow) chemical granular fertilizer. The method is to loosen the soil at the edge of the pot slightly, put in the granular fertilizer, press the potting soil firm, and water with clear water. Generally, a flower pot of about 5 cun can take about 15 granules. In my early years (around the 1990s) I used Zhenjiang-produced “Fei Hua Dan” and the effect was acceptable. I do not know whether it is still sold now. After applying this kind of granular fertilizer, remember the time and apply it on schedule according to the instructions. Remember that no fertilizer may be used indiscriminately. Jasmine likes fully fermented human waste fertilizer best, but for home jasmine growing this is hard to implement. Generally, use soybean cake or sesame cake crushed, soaked until rotted and fermented, then diluted with water and applied, or use eggshells soaked in water until fermented and then diluted with water and applied. If conditions do not allow, then after flower buds sprout, apply granular fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium elements. Note to use as little nitrogen-containing granular fertilizer as possible, otherwise it will only grow leaves and be hard-pressed to develop flower buds.

(3) After the Dragon Boat Festival, the temperature gradually rises. There is a saying in Wuhan: “After eating salted egg zongzi, send away the cotton clothes,” meaning there will no longer be a “cold wave.” High temperature and high heat are exactly the good climate that jasmine loves and that easily develops flower buds. People usually call the period from the Dragon Boat Festival to the Mid-Autumn Festival the jasmine flowering period. The flowers jasmine opens during the hottest dog days of midsummer are called fu flowers. Professional flower farmers have the saying “first fu flower tide, second fu flower tide, third fu flower tide,” meaning that jasmine in this peak flowering period blooms like a surging tide. Home-grown jasmine is the same. During this period, abundant flowers and luxuriant leaves are pleasing to the eye, and the rich fragrance is refreshing to the heart... During the peak flowering period of jasmine, people must never neglect its care. Each jasmine flower only lasts one day and night. After blooming, promptly cut off the spent flowers and leave the nutrients to the other flowers. Prune progressively in this way. After a whole batch of flowers has finished blooming, promptly prune the branches according to the shape of the plant and personal wishes, wait for it to sprout new branches and then develop new flower buds. Once new flower buds are found forming, promptly apply fertilizer water. The frequency of applying fertilizer water should increase as the flower buds grow larger. It is a principle that fertilizer must not be applied when the potting soil is on the wet side. Only when the jasmine is about to burst into bloom should you stop applying it so that people can enjoy the flowers without an off smell.,,,

3. Pruning

In growing jasmine, learning to prune is a very important step. Necessary and appropriate pruning of jasmine can not only ensure the storage of the jasmine's own nutrients, benefiting the growth of new branches and the sprouting of new flower buds, but can also ensure a beautiful tree shape, and you can also use the sturdy branches cut off for cutting propagation, ensuring what is needed for replacing old jasmine with new.

Key points for jasmine care in early spring:

[Leaf removal] During the period from Qingming to Guyu, the temperature gradually rises and tends to stabilize, and jasmine branches begin to stir. At this time, all the old leaves on the jasmine branches should be removed promptly. These old leaves have already completed their historical mission of storing nutrients to keep the jasmine safe through the winter, and their photosynthetic circulation function is basically all but lost. Keeping them not only hinders the jasmine branches from getting light, but also greatly consumes the limited nutrients remaining in the jasmine branches after winter. So before the jasmine sprouts new buds, that is, before Qingming, all old leaves on the branches must be removed.

Removing all the leaves from jasmine is experience summarized from many years of jasmine care. Those old leaves that have gone through last year and another winter have basically all but lost their photosynthetic circulation function. Keeping them, to beginners at growing jasmine, seems to look nice with green branches and leaves, but in essence, keeping these old leaves on the jasmine branches greatly harms the jasmine itself:

[First] Keeping these old leaves on the jasmine branches, in early spring when the jasmine has not yet restored normal function, especially when the jasmine root system has not yet fully restored its function of absorbing nutrients from the soil, they are the first to absorb the limited nutrients in the jasmine branches that remain after winter, directly affecting the sprouting of new jasmine buds, causing new buds to sprout late or develop incompletely, and further affecting the formation of flower buds. Many people's jasmine that bloomed quite abundantly in the first year of care blooms worse year after year simply because they do not understand this key point.

[Second] Keeping these old leaves on the branches directly affects the jasmine branches' access to light, and further affects the jasmine sprouting new buds, and more importantly affects the formation of flower buds among the new buds. Jasmine flower buds are all formed among new buds. Keeping those old leaves on the branches not only cannot help the jasmine carry out photosynthesis and keep nutrients circulating normally in the jasmine branches, but also continuously absorbs nutrients that should be supplied for the growth of new branches, leaves, and new flower buds. In this way, how can the jasmine being cared for grow sturdier year after year?

[Pruning] After new buds sprout, choose the direction in which the new buds extend, then carry out directional, shape-setting branch pruning.

After Qingming, the temperature gradually rises and is relatively stable, and the pruned jasmine can be placed on a flower stand for care.

Experience summarized over many years: do not rush to repot in spring. Wait until after the first flowering period to repot. The advantage is that after blooming it happens to have a period of recuperation for renewing and sprouting new buds. During this period the temperature is relatively high and relatively stable, and the jasmine root system disturbed during repotting easily recovers its vitality.

Spring jasmine care is mainly based on cutting off old branches and leaves, pruning old and weak branches, and shape-setting pruning. In addition, there is an important care point that is not known to the general public: namely, removing the tips of new buds. A large portion of the new buds that sprout are leggy branches. This kind of branch generally will not develop flower buds. If not removed promptly, it not only affects the shape of the plant, but also absorbs a large amount of nutrients from the pot, which is unfavorable for the development of flower buds, so it must be removed promptly.

The flower buds developed in this season (April) are called “following-mother flowers.” For the jasmine to be sturdier, they generally all have to be removed. After removal, it is greatly beneficial for its summer peak flowering period. Often people only care about a few flower buds before their eyes and neglect the long-term cherishing and care of the plant. New leaves not being green is caused by the following-mother flowers absorbing a large amount of nutrients. Whether to prune the [following-mother flowers], or how much to prune, is up to the grower. If you want the plant's branches to be sturdy and to bloom more later, then the [following-mother flowers] should all be pruned off. If you want to enjoy the flowers in your pot that year, you can leave the [following-mother flowers] unpruned, but if you do not prune the [following-mother flowers], these flowers will absorb a large amount of nutrients from the main stem and affect the main stem's sprouting of new branches and new flower buds. This is a chain effect brought by the [following-mother flowers]. The so-called [following-mother flowers] are a kind of flower bud under an abnormal state peculiar to the characteristics of jasmine. They sprout earlier, are fewer, and are not very fragrant. Professional flower growers and flower collectors all know that the [following-mother flowers] must be pruned clean for jasmine to achieve high efficiency and high yield. These are all experiences summarized by people, and publications of them in theory are relatively few, so they are often hard for people to understand.

Remove the tips according to the plant shape you like. You can carefully observe my pot of jasmine with the tips removed. Generally, remove the [through tips——tips without flower buds] from the first or second node of the branch (that is, the first or second pair of leaf stalks counting up from the base). It is not removing tips at will!

[Several key points] (1) Ferrous sulfate must not be applied at will. Do not listen to the promotion of flower fertilizer sellers. After the potting soil becomes too alkaline, jasmine leaves will turn yellow, which shows that acidic elements need to be supplemented. When people use ferrous sulfate improperly, it backfires, causing adverse phenomena such as root rot and burning to death. In fact, you have the raw material for supplementing acidic elements right at home——rice-washing water. Keep the rice-washing water and pour it into an empty Gaocheng bottle, let it fully ferment for later use. When needed, take a small amount, dilute with water, and pour it on to immediately supplement acidic elements. It is economical, affordable, and relatively safe.

(2) Place it outdoors in the sunlight for care. Do not place it indoors or in a dark place.

(3) After blooming, prune according to the plant shape you like. There is no fixed definition; pruning techniques need to be summarized slowly by yourself.

(4) The height of the branches kept during pruning should be determined by the shape of the plant, or by the plant shape you personally prefer. For example, some people like a tall, sturdy shape (growing upward, mainly the central trunk with side branches as auxiliary), while others like a low, spreading shape (a shorter tree shape spreading to all sides, mainly side branches, with the central trunk pruned directionally). You cannot make a blanket rule of cutting off a few nodes or keeping a few nodes.

(5) When repotting, whether intentionally or not, part of the root system will more or less be injured, so [after repotting, absolutely do not rush to fertilize]. If fertilizer is applied (no matter what kind), the roots will inevitably rot. People generally cannot see jasmine root rot, but from surface phenomena such as: not growing as well as before repotting, sprouting few new buds, no flower bud sprouting, and so on, it can be seen that the root system has already been damaged. Often people always mistakenly understand it as: lacking fertilizer, lacking water, lacking such and such, and keep supplementing fertilizer and water, and the more they supplement, the worse it gets, finally ending with themselves losing confidence in growing jasmine. Generally when repotting, place an appropriate amount of fully rotted cake fertilizer at the very bottom of the pot, and cover the fertilizer well with potting soil. The root system must not directly touch the fertilizer, to avoid root rot. After repotting, normal watering and fertilizing management can be carried out after 2~3 weeks.

(6) On sunny days, a flower pot being short of water is very easy to see from the leaves. On cloudy days, a flower pot being short of water is generally difficult to determine. There are also the characteristics of the plant's size and its tolerance of light and shade. Large plants consume more water, while small plants do the opposite; light-tolerant plants consume more water, while shade-tolerant plants do the opposite. If the tip leaves wilt, first tap the flower pot with your finger and listen to the sound the flower pot makes. If the sound is crisp, then it shows the potting soil is on the dry side. If the sound is muffled, then it shows the potting soil contains water. Sometimes the leaves wilting may also be because the plant's root system has a problem. At this time, the more you water, the more the leaves wilt.

Place newly repotted plants outdoors in a cool, ventilated place, generally for at most 1~3 days. Or place them in a place with light but no direct sun (that is, not exposed to the sun) for 1~3 days, and then they can be cared for normally.

(7) Any newly potted or newly repotted plant (including jasmine) must not be placed directly in the sun to be exposed. Generally place it in a place that avoids direct sunlight——a place with sky overhead but no direct sun——for 3~5 days. The purpose is to let the already disturbed root system recover its vitality. When its root system's absorption function is normal, the plant's branches and leaves will show a response, and then it can be placed in the sunlight for care. The three elements of plant growth: soil, water, sunlight, none can be missing.

(8) If in spring the jasmine leaves are found to be wrinkled and shriveled: first, fertilizing too early. Second, too little light at the growing site. Third, watering too frequently.

(9) The potting soil should be obtained according to your own conditions and adapted to local conditions. If conditions allow, for growing jasmine, dried [lotus pond mud] is best. Next is old [vegetable garden soil] used for growing vegetables——loamy sand soil. The soil quality must both retain moisture and have good water permeability. It is required that when dry it does not turn white and crusted, and when wet it does not become mud.

4. Management in early summer

Entering early summer, the temperature gradually rises and is relatively stable, and the jasmine's branches and leaves also grow relatively vigorously. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, it will begin to develop flower buds. The key management points are as follows:

(1) For jasmine placed on a balcony flower stand for care, during this period pay attention to regularly (must rotate once within a week) changing the direction of the flower pot, so that the jasmine does not always grow in one direction and become crooked in shape. Rotating the flower pot in this way also allows the jasmine branches to bathe evenly in sunlight, and better sprout new branches and flower buds. Jasmine flower buds are all developed among new branches.

(2) In this season, also pay attention to appropriate pruning of the branches, to ensure that the jasmine continuously sprouts new buds and continuously develops flower buds, so that during its peak flowering period (the three months of July, August, and September) the owner can admire its abundant flowers and luxuriant leaves and enjoy its refreshing fragrance.

(3) Watering should be moderate. Do not water if the potting soil is not dry. On cloudy and rainy days, prevent the potting soil from becoming waterlogged and causing jasmine root rot. Ensure the drainage function of the pot bottom. When placing the flower pot, do not block the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. When watering is needed, it is best to do it in the morning. Generally do not water at noon or in the evening, unless making up for a missed watering in the morning.

(4) After new branches grow, prune according to the shape requirements of the plant, cutting off tips that affect the beauty of the plant shape, through tips (branches that are leggy and very unlikely to develop flower buds), abnormal tips (single leaves; normal ones are opposite paired leaves), and so on.

(5) Promptly cut off following-mother flowers. Jasmine's peak flowering period is in midsummer. The flower buds sprouting in this season are developed from the nutrients remaining in the branches and trunk after the jasmine overwintered. They are generally single flowers, and some are even deformed flower buds. If not cut off, they have a great impact on the jasmine sprouting more new branches and developing new flower buds. Many people, seeing that the jasmine they are growing has flower buds early, are very happy and fear losing them, and carefully nurture them until they bloom. As a result, some become deformed flowers, and some, even if they bloom, are not very fragrant. And the biggest drawback lies in this: these following-mother flowers absorb a large amount of nutrients from the branches and trunk, making it difficult for the jasmine to sprout new flower buds when it enters the peak flowering period, because it prematurely loses the nutrient supplement for sprouting new flower buds. Pruning off one following-mother flower tip can at least cause two new tips to sprout, and by extension to its peak flowering period, the new flower buds it sprouts will far exceed these “low-value” following-mother flowers, by a great many.

[Key points for jasmine autumn care]

When entering autumn, jasmine care must pay attention to the following points:

(1) Strictly prohibit fertilizing. Avoid too many leggy branches affecting overwintering.

(2) Water sparingly. Promote lignification of jasmine branches to help it overwinter.

(3) Keep the branches and leaves. Do not prune the branches and leaves, so the jasmine uses the branches and leaves to store nutrients and create conditions for overwintering.

(4) Outdoor care. Place the jasmine outdoors day and night for care, so it adapts to the gradually colder seasonal climate and overwinters easily.

(5) After entering autumn, near the jasmine potting soil, especially leggy new buds on the main trunk, generally all have to be removed. New buds sprouting on the main trunk in spring and summer can be kept or not according to the plant shape.

In addition: it is not very normal for jasmine leaves to turn yellow in autumn. The main reason is that deviations occurred in summer care, such as improper watering, fertilizing, light, and so on, and they are only reflected in autumn. If it were in spring and summer, it would be relatively easy to treat, but in this season it is not very easy to cure completely. Conservative care methods: (1) Keep it on the dry side and promptly remove the leaves that have turned quite yellow. (2) Give it more light; photosynthesis can alleviate leaf yellowing. (3) Add a trace amount of ferrous sulfate (crystalline powder) when watering, and stop using it once the leaves show some improvement.

(Supplement)

A—Whether the jasmine root system sprouts mainly depends on temperature. When the temperature is below 30°C, the jasmine's leaves, branches, and root system all grow slowly, and it is even less able to sprout flower buds. If a cutting branch has not sprouted new roots, it is mainly constrained by temperature and light. Strengthening light after autumn may still give a glimmer of hope for the cutting branch to sprout new roots.

B—In autumn, jasmine care absolutely must not fertilize!! Be sure to keep the potting soil on the dry side (judging by the jasmine branches and leaves not wilting), so that its fibrous roots are plump, its main root is sturdy, and its branches and leaves are luxuriant, storing enough nutrients so it can safely pass through the cold winter. Note: First, if the potting soil is on the wet side, root rot easily occurs (obviously, the white, fresh, tender fibrous roots are the most delicate and most easily rotted). Second, if care is improper during the transition from summer to autumn, and strong main stems, branches, and leaves cannot be preserved, the jasmine can neither use its leaves for photosynthesis to sustain life, nor has a sturdy root system to absorb water and supply leaf growth. Third, if pruning is improper in late summer and early autumn, leggy branches and leaves that are not removed in time wither because they are too tender. Fourth, do not indiscriminately use ferrous sulfate solution or any other biochemical substances; improper use can very easily cause the entire potted plant (jasmine) to die prematurely.

5. Key points for winter care

It can neither be too dry nor too wet (without watering, the branches easily dry out and get damaged; with too much watering, the roots easily rot); it can neither be frozen nor wrapped (without wrapping, the branches easily freeze and get damaged; with tight wrapping, the leaves easily drop); it can neither be closed off nor blown (without ventilation, the branches easily suffocate and get damaged; with too much wind, the branches easily wither); it fears both cold wind and sunlight (without light, the branches easily suffocate and get damaged; with too much sun exposure, it easily catches cold).

Improper winter care of jasmine has a direct impact on its sprouting of new buds the following spring. Winter care is the key season for maintaining jasmine. Views on how to care for it vary, and numerous newspapers, magazines, and flower books have all offered introductions. I have cared for jasmine at home for more than thirty years, and my winter care is especially meticulous.

Key points for wrapping branches to protect against cold:

In winter, jasmine still has a faint physiological circulation function, such as leaf respiration and water absorption by the roots, only people cannot see it as directly as in hot weather. A slight mistake in care can cause it to lose its vitality. Therefore, when wrapping it for cold protection, only materials like woven plastic sack fabric can be used; this kind of material can both block wind and protect against cold while also allowing ventilation. Plastic bags must never be used for wrapping. Although plastic bag wrapping can temporarily block wind and protect against cold, it does not allow ventilation and directly affects the jasmine's functional circulation, causing the branches and leaves to suffocate and be damaged, resulting in branch death and total leaf drop, so that by the next spring it cannot sprout and slowly withers.

Jasmine cultivation methods and precautions

"Jasmine cultivation methods and precautions" is a fairly comprehensive article on jasmine cultivation. It is the 30-year jasmine care experience of a flower enthusiast, and for flower lovers who like jasmine, it is very worth reading and learning from. The article covers important aspects such as watering, fertilizing, and pruning jasmine.

I. Jasmine cultivation methods——watering

In growing jasmine, learning how to water is considered the gateway to jasmine cultivation. Many people's jasmine does not grow well, such as leaves turning yellow, being sparse, or leaves being large with long internodes, or blooming little or not blooming at all, and furthermore not surviving the winter, then in the following year either withering or growing even more misshapen and formless, and so on.

The above symptoms show: first, improper watering at ordinary times, mainly not understanding which season needs more watering and which season needs less, and in seasons requiring more watering, how to divide watering across the day, and in seasons requiring less watering, how to water less? How to observe whether watering is needed, and so on.

These are all care steps that involve a certain amount of technical skill and are also meticulous. With too much watering, jasmine roots easily rot, and laypeople often cannot see whether its roots have rotted, and still think it has not been watered enough, or think it is malnourished, and give it more fertilizer, and this immediately kills the jasmine! Watering jasmine too little generally will not kill it. There is a flower-growing proverb: "Dry jasmine, wet chrysanthemum." This is the summary of experience from flower growers since ancient times, so it is said: learning how to water is considered the gateway to jasmine cultivation.

How to judge watering:

1. Look at the potting soil and keep it alternating between dry and wet; the potting soil should not be so dry that it turns pale and crusty, nor so wet that it becomes mud.

2. Tap the flower pot with your finger and listen to the sound; a clear and pleasant sound indicates the potting soil is already dry; a dull and muffled sound indicates the potting soil still contains water.

Usually broken pot pieces and the like are placed at the bottom of the flower pot to help drainage and ventilation. Foam blocks used as padding at the bottom of the pot are a new type of material, and can also be considered a new thing. It cannot be defined as simply good or bad; it is just a matter of using materials according to suitability. It is the same principle as when wounds used to be dressed with hemostatic powder and gauze, and after adhesive bandages appeared people used materials according to suitability.)

II. Jasmine cultivation methods——fertilizing

The three essential elements for plant growth: "soil, sunlight, water." With these three elements, a plant can survive and grow. Then, if you want the plant to grow sturdy, with luxuriant branches and leaves and abundant flowers and fruit, you must know the three essential nutrients for plants: "nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium." Growing jasmine is the same; you must understand these two "three essentials." Often beginners at jasmine cultivation, because they do not initially understand the essence of the "three essentials" of plant nutrients, casually fertilize jasmine, and as a result not only fail to achieve the effect but get the opposite result, making jasmine that was originally growing fairly well grow worse and worse.

Once you have learned how to fertilize jasmine, then you have moved from the introductory stage of jasmine cultivation up one step and entered an important care stage in the next phase. When jasmine is fertilized appropriately, its satisfying effect is self-evident. The jasmine will inevitably have abundant flowers and luxuriant leaves, sturdy branches, and a moderate tree shape, and thus its functions of disease resistance, disaster resistance, severe cold resistance, and intense heat resistance will also need no worry from its owner.

Why can't household potted jasmine be fertilized hastily in spring and early summer?

(1) Many fellow enthusiasts are relatively concerned about this issue, but they often believe the words of flower sellers, or after reading introductions online, in books, magazines, and so on, they fertilize jasmine at home at what seems the opportune time, hoping that after receiving fertilizer their jasmine will grow faster, bloom more, and have sturdier branches and trunks, and so on. The result is either leaves growing wrinkled and shriveled, or large leaves with long internodes, or only branches and leaves growing with few flowers. At this time the owner still thinks the jasmine lacks fertilizer and keeps applying all kinds of fertilizer, and the result is still unsatisfactory. In this way they lose confidence in caring for jasmine. This is the reason why it cannot be fertilized hastily.

(2) Fertilizing must be done when the potting soil is dry, and it should be done from the afternoon until before evening. Generally, household jasmine should not be fertilized in the morning or at noon. The next morning, give the fertilized jasmine a small amount of clear water; this is called watering [return water]. This step is very important and is the key move determining whether the jasmine can absorb the fertilizer applied. For fertilizer, fully rotted human manure water is best, followed by fully rotted cake fertilizer (soybean cake and sesame cake) water, and next (when conditions do not allow) chemical granular fertilizer. The method is to loosen the soil at the edge of the pot slightly, put in the granular fertilizer, press the potting soil firm, and water with clear water. Generally, for a flower pot of about 5 cun, placing about 15 granules is enough. As for granular fertilizer, in my early years (around the 1990s) I used "Feihuadan" produced in Zhenjiang and the effect was fairly good; I do not know whether it is still sold now. After applying this kind of granular fertilizer, remember the time and apply it on schedule according to the instructions. Remember that no fertilizer may be used indiscriminately. Jasmine likes fully rotted human manure water best, but for household jasmine cultivation this is not easy to apply. Generally, soybean cake and sesame cake are crushed, soaked until rotten and fully composted, then diluted with water and applied, or eggshells are soaked in water, fully composted, then diluted with water and applied. If conditions do not allow, then after flower buds sprout, apply granular fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium elements. Note that granular fertilizer containing nitrogen should be applied as little as possible, otherwise only leaves will grow and it will be hard to develop flower buds.

(3) After the Dragon Boat Festival, the temperature gradually rises. There is a saying in Wuhan: "After eating salted egg zongzi, send away the cotton clothes," meaning there will no longer be "cold waves." High temperature and high heat are exactly the good climate that jasmine loves and that easily develops flower buds. People usually call the period from the Dragon Boat Festival to the Mid-Autumn Festival the jasmine flowering period. The flowers jasmine opens during the hottest dog days of midsummer are called fu flowers. Professional flower growers have the saying "first fu flower tide, second fu flower tide, third fu flower tide," meaning that during this peak flowering period jasmine blooms surging like a tide. Household-cultivated jasmine is the same. During this period, abundant flowers and luxuriant leaves are pleasing to the eye, and the fragrant scent assails the nostrils and refreshes the heart... During the peak flowering period of jasmine, people must never neglect its care. Each jasmine flower lasts only one day and one night. After blooming, the spent flowers should be cut off in time so that the nutrients can be given to other flowers. Pruning progressively in this way, after a batch of flowers has all finished blooming, prune the branches in time according to the shape of the plant and one's personal wishes, wait for it to sprout new branches and then develop new flower buds, and once new flower buds are found to have formed, apply fertilizer water in time. The frequency of applying fertilizer water should increase as the buds grow larger. The principle is that fertilizer cannot be applied when the potting soil is on the wet side. Stop applying only when the jasmine is about to bloom and people are going to enjoy the flowers and avoid off-flavors.

III. Jasmine cultivation methods——pruning

In growing jasmine, learning to prune is a very important step. Necessary and appropriate pruning of jasmine can not only ensure the storage of the jasmine's own nutrients, benefiting the growth of new branches and the sprouting of new flower buds, but can also ensure the beauty of the tree shape. The robust branches cut off can also be used for cuttings propagation, ensuring what is needed for replacing old jasmine with new.

Key points for jasmine care in early spring:

[Leaf removal] During the period from Qingming to Guyu, the temperature gradually rises and tends to stabilize, and jasmine branches begin to stir. At this time, all old leaves on the jasmine branches should be removed in time. These old leaves have already completed their historical mission of storing nutrients and keeping the jasmine safe through winter, and their photosynthetic circulation function has basically been lost entirely. Keeping them not only hinders the jasmine branches from receiving light, but also greatly consumes the limited nutrients remaining in the jasmine branches after winter. Therefore, before the jasmine sprouts new buds, that is, before Qingming, all old leaves on the branches must be removed.

Removing all leaves from jasmine is experience summarized from many years of jasmine care. Those old leaves that have gone through last year and then another winter have basically completely lost their photosynthetic circulation function. To beginners at jasmine cultivation, keeping them may look nice, like green branches and leaves, but in essence, leaving these old leaves on the jasmine branches greatly harms the jasmine itself:

[First] If these old leaves remain on the jasmine branches, in early spring when the jasmine has not yet restored normal function, especially when the jasmine root system has not yet fully restored its function of absorbing nutrients from the soil, they are the first to absorb the limited nutrients in the jasmine branches, of which very little remains after winter. This directly affects the sprouting of new jasmine buds, causing new buds to sprout late or develop incompletely, and further affecting the formation of flower buds. This is why many people's jasmine blooms quite luxuriantly in the first year of care, but then gets worse year after year: they do not understand this key point.

[Second] If these old leaves remain on the branches, they directly affect the jasmine branches' access to light, and further affect the sprouting of new jasmine buds. More importantly, they affect the formation of flower buds among the new buds. Jasmine flower buds are all formed in new buds. Those old leaves remaining on the branches can neither help the jasmine carry out photosynthesis and keep nutrients circulating normally in the jasmine branches and trunk, nor stop continuously absorbing nutrients that should be supplied for the growth of new branches, leaves, and new flower buds. In this way, how could the jasmine being cared for grow sturdier year after year?

[Pruning] After new buds sprout, choose the direction in which the new buds extend, then carry out directional and shaping pruning of the branches.

After Qingming, the temperature gradually rises and is relatively stable. Pruned jasmine can be placed on a flower stand for care.

Experience summarized over many years: do not rush to repot in spring. Wait until the first round of flowers has finished blooming, then repot. The advantage is that after blooming, it happens to have a recovery period for renewing and sprouting new buds. During this period the temperature is relatively high and relatively stable, and the jasmine root system disturbed during repotting easily recovers its vitality.

Spring care for jasmine mainly consists of cutting off old branches and leaves, pruning old and weak branches, and shaping pruning. In addition, there is an important care point that is not widely known: namely, removing the tips of new buds. A large portion of the sprouted new buds are leggy branches, and this kind of branch generally will not develop flower buds. If not removed in time, it not only affects the shape of the plant but also absorbs a large amount of nutrients from the pot, which is unfavorable for the development of flower buds. Therefore it must be removed in time.

The flower buds developing at this time (April) are called "following-mother flowers." For the jasmine to be sturdier, they generally must all be removed. After removal, it is greatly beneficial for its peak flowering period in summer. People often only care about a few flower buds right before their eyes and neglect the long-term cherishing and care of the plant. New leaves not being green is caused by the "following-mother flowers" absorbing a large amount of nutrients. Whether to prune the [following-mother flowers], or how much to cut, is up to the grower. If you want the plant's branches and trunk to be sturdy and to bloom more later, then the [following-mother flowers] should all be pruned off. If you want to enjoy the flowers in your pot at that time, you may choose not to cut off the [following-mother flowers], but if you do not prune the [following-mother flowers], these flowers will absorb a large amount of nutrients from the main trunk and affect the main trunk's sprouting of new branches and new flower buds. This is a chain effect brought by the [following-mother flowers]. The so-called [following-mother flowers] are a kind of flower bud under an abnormal state peculiar to the characteristics of jasmine. They sprout earlier, are fewer, and are not very fragrant. Professional flower growers and flower collectors all know that [following-mother flowers] must be pruned away completely for jasmine to achieve high efficiency and high yield. These are experiences summarized by people, and published theory on them is relatively scarce, so they are often hard for people to understand.

Remove the tips according to the plant shape you like. You can carefully observe my pot of jasmine with the tips removed. Generally, remove the [penetrating tip——a tip without flower buds] from the first or second node of the branch (that is, the first pair or second pair of leaf stalks counting upward from the base). It is not a matter of removing tips however you please!

[Several key points] (1) Ferrous sulfate cannot be applied at will. Do not listen to the promotion by sellers of flower fertilizer. After the potting soil becomes too alkaline, jasmine leaves will turn yellow, which indicates that acidic elements need to be supplemented. When people use ferrous sulfate improperly, it can produce the opposite effect, causing adverse phenomena such as root rot and burning to death. In fact, there is a raw material at home for supplementing acidic elements——rice-washing water. Keep the rice-washing water and pour it into an empty navel orange bottle, let it ferment fully for later use. When needed, take a small amount, dilute it with water, and pour it on to immediately supplement acidic elements. It is economical, practical, and relatively safe.

(2) Place it outdoors in sunlight for care; do not place it indoors or in a dark place.

(3) After flowering, prune according to the tree shape you like. There is no fixed definition; pruning techniques need to be summarized slowly by yourself.

(4) The height of the branches retained during pruning should be determined by the shape of the plant, or by the plant shape one personally likes. For example, some people like a tall and sturdy form (growing upward, mainly with the central trunk and with side branches as auxiliary), while others like a low and spreading form (a shorter tree shape extending in all directions, mainly with side branches and with the central trunk pruned directionally). It cannot be generalized as cutting off a certain number of nodes or retaining a certain number of nodes.

(5) When repotting, part of the root system will be damaged intentionally or unintentionally, more or less. Therefore [after repotting, absolutely do not rush to fertilize]. If fertilizer is applied (no matter what kind), the roots will inevitably rot. People generally cannot see jasmine root rot, but from surface phenomena such as not growing as well as before repotting, not sprouting many new buds, and no flower buds sprouting, one can see that its root system has already been damaged. People often mistakenly understand it as lacking fertilizer, lacking water, lacking this or that, and continuously supplement fertilizer water, but the more they supplement, the worse it gets, and in the end it concludes with their loss of confidence in caring for jasmine. Generally when repotting, place an appropriate amount of fully rotted cake fertilizer at the very bottom of the pot, and cover the fertilizer well with potting soil. The root system must not directly touch the fertilizer, to avoid root rot. After repotting, normal watering and fertilizing management can be carried out again after 2~3 weeks.

(6) On sunny days, a lack of water in the flower pot is easy to see from the leaves; on cloudy days, a lack of water in the flower pot is generally hard to determine. There are also characteristics such as the size of the plant and its tolerance to light or shade. Large plants consume more water, while small plants do the opposite; light-tolerant plants consume more water, while shade-tolerant plants do the opposite. If the tip leaves wilt, first tap the flower pot with your finger and listen to the sound the flower pot makes. If the sound is clear, then the potting soil is on the dry side; if the sound is dull, then the potting soil contains moisture. Sometimes leaf wilting may also be because the plant's root system has a problem. At this time, the more you water, the more the leaves will wilt.

(7) Any newly potted or newly repotted plant (including jasmine) cannot be placed directly in the sun for exposure. Generally place it in a place avoiding direct sunlight——open to the sky but not to the sun——for 3~5 days. The purpose is to let the already disturbed root system recover its vitality. Once the root system's absorption function is normal, the plant's branches and leaves will show a response, and then it can be placed in the sun for care. The three essential elements for plant growth: soil, water, sunlight, none can be missing.

(8) If jasmine leaves are found to be wrinkled and shriveled in spring: first, fertilizing too early. Second, too little light at the cultivation site. Third, watering too frequently.

(9) The potting soil should be obtained according to one's own conditions and suitability to the site. If conditions allow, [lotus pond mud] dried in the sun is best for jasmine care, followed by old [vegetable garden soil] used for growing vegetables——oil sandy soil. The soil quality must both retain moisture and have good water permeability, and it is required that when dry it does not turn pale and crusty, and when wet it does not become mud.

IV. Jasmine cultivation methods——management in early summer

Entering early summer, the temperature gradually rises and is relatively stable, and jasmine's branches and leaves grow relatively vigorously. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, it will begin to sprout flower buds. The key management points are as follows:

(1) For jasmine placed on a balcony flower stand for care, during this period pay attention to frequently changing the direction of the flower pot (must change at least once a week), so that the jasmine does not always grow in one direction and become crooked in shape. Changing the flower pot in this way can also let the jasmine branches bathe evenly in sunlight and better sprout new branches and flower buds. Jasmine flower buds are all developed in new branches.

(2) In this season, attention should also be paid to appropriate pruning of the branches, to ensure that the jasmine continuously sprouts new buds and continuously develops flower buds, so that during its peak flowering period (the three months of 7, 8, and 9) the owner can enjoy its abundant flowers and luxuriant leaves and enjoy its heart-refreshing fragrance.

(3) Watering should be moderate. Do not water if the potting soil is not dry. On cloudy and rainy days, prevent waterlogging in the potting soil that could cause jasmine root rot. Ensure the drainage function of the pot bottom. When placing the flower pot, do not block the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. When watering is needed, it is best to do it in the morning. Generally do not water at noon or in the evening, unless it was missed in the morning and needs to be made up.

(4) After new branches grow, prune according to the requirements of the tree shape. Cut off tips that affect the beauty of the tree shape, penetrating tips (leggy branches that are very unlikely to sprout flower buds), abnormally shaped tips (single leaves, whereas normal ones are opposite paired leaves), and so on.

(5) Cut off following-mother flowers in time. Jasmine's peak flowering period is in midsummer. The flower buds sprouting in this season are developed from the nutrients remaining in the branches and trunk after jasmine has overwintered. They are generally single flowers, and some are even deformed flower buds. If not cut off, they have an enormous impact on jasmine's sprouting of more new branches and development of new flower buds. Many people are very happy to see that the jasmine they are caring for has flower buds early, and they fear losing them, so they carefully cultivate and protect them until they bloom. As a result, some become deformed flowers, and some, even if they bloom, are not very fragrant. But the biggest drawback is that these following-mother flowers absorb a large amount of nutrients from the branches and trunk, making it difficult for jasmine to sprout new flower buds when it enters the peak flowering period. The reason is that the nutrient supplement for sprouting new flower buds is lost too early. Cutting off one following-mother flower tip can at least cause two new tips to sprout. By the same reasoning, by its peak flowering period, the new flower buds it sprouts will far exceed these "low-value" following-mother flowers by a great many.

[Key points for jasmine care in autumn]

After entering autumn, the following points must be noted in jasmine care:

(1) Fertilizing is strictly forbidden. Avoid too many leggy branches affecting overwintering.

(2) Water sparingly. Encourage the jasmine branches to become woody to help it overwinter.

(3) Retain branches and leaves. Do not prune branches or leaves, so that jasmine can use the branches and leaves to store nutrients and create conditions for overwintering.

(4) Outdoor care. Place jasmine outdoors day and night for care, so that it adapts to the gradually colder seasonal climate and is better able to overwinter.

(5) After entering autumn, leggy new shoots near the jasmine potting soil, especially on the main trunk, generally must all be removed. New shoots sprouting on the main trunk in spring and summer can be retained or not according to the tree shape.

In addition: it is not very normal for jasmine leaves to turn yellow in autumn. The main reason is that deviations occurred in summer care, such as improper watering, fertilizing, and lighting, and they are merely reflected only in autumn. If it happens in spring and summer, it is relatively easy to correct; in this season it is not very easy to cure completely. Conservative care methods: (1) Keep care on the dry side and promptly remove leaves that have turned yellow quite severely. (2) Provide more light; photosynthesis can alleviate leaf yellowing. (3) Add a trace amount of ferrous sulfate (crystalline powder) when watering; stop using it once the leaves show some improvement.

(Supplement)

A—Whether jasmine roots sprout or not mainly depends on temperature. When the temperature is below 30°C, jasmine's branches, leaves, branches, and roots all grow slowly, and it is even less able to sprout flower buds. If cuttings have not sprouted new roots, it is mainly due to constraints from temperature and light. Strengthening light after autumn may still leave a glimmer of hope for the cuttings to sprout new roots.

B—In autumn, jasmine must absolutely not be fertilized!! Be sure to let the potting soil be on the dry side (using the criterion that jasmine branches and leaves do not wilt), so that its fibrous roots are full, the main root is sturdy, and the branches and leaves are luxuriant, storing enough nutrients so that it can safely pass through the cold winter. Note: First, if the potting soil is on the wet side, root rot easily occurs (obviously, the white, fresh, tender fibrous roots are the most delicate and most prone to rotting). Second, if care is improper at the turn of summer and autumn, and if strong main stems, branches, and leaves cannot be retained, jasmine can neither use leaves for photosynthesis to maintain life, nor have sturdy roots to absorb water to supply leaf formation. Third, if pruning is improper in late summer and early autumn, leggy branches and leaves not removed in time will wither because they are too tender. Fourth, ferrous sulfate solution or any other biochemical substances cannot be used indiscriminately; improper use can very easily cause the entire potted plant (jasmine) to die prematurely.

[Key points for jasmine care in winter]

It can neither be too dry nor too wet (without watering, the branches easily dry out and get damaged; with too much watering, the roots easily rot),

it can neither be frozen nor wrapped (without wrapping, the branches easily freeze and get damaged; with tight wrapping, the leaves easily drop),

it can neither be closed off nor blown (without ventilation, the branches easily suffocate and get damaged; with too much wind, the branches easily wither),

it fears both cold wind and sunlight (without light, the branches easily suffocate and get damaged; with too much sun exposure, it easily catches cold).

Key points for wrapping branches to protect against cold:

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