How to grow hydrangeas? A detailed guide to practical care methods

Soil selection

In early spring, rooted hydrangea cuttings can be transplanted into pots. For container growing, use a potting soil mixed from leaf mold, garden soil, river sand and cake fertilizer in a 4:3:2:1 ratio. After potting, water thoroughly and keep indoors for care; by early May it can be moved outside.

Hydrangeas should be repotted once every two years in early spring, into fresh potting soil. When repotting, remove some of the old soil and rotten roots, and carry out pruning.

Fertilizing method

Hydrangeas love fertilizer. During the growing period, apply a dilute cake fertilizer solution about once every half month. To keep the potting soil consistently acidic, ferrous sulfate can be added when applying the liquid fertilizer. During the bud stage, apply 1-2 additional doses of superphosphate soaking solution to promote larger flowers and more vivid colors.

Watering method

Water frequently in spring and summer to keep the potting soil moist; during hot periods, water once in the morning and once in the evening, and take care to provide appropriate shade; in autumn, as the weather gradually cools, gradually reduce the amount of watering so the branches grow sturdy, which helps winter dormancy; in winter, water less, keeping the potting soil merely moist.

Light requirements

Hydrangeas prefer shade. After being moved outside in spring, they should first be placed in a semi-shaded environment for care. In midsummer, move them to a well-ventilated, cool spot to prevent leaf scorch. After September, as light intensity gradually weakens, move the pots to a brighter place to promote flower bud differentiation.

Temperature requirements

The suitable growing temperature for hydrangeas is 18-28°C, and the winter temperature should not fall below 5°C. Flower bud differentiation requires 6-8 weeks at 5-7°C; 20°C can promote flowering, and maintaining 16°C after the flowers appear can extend the viewing period. However, high temperatures make the flowers fade quickly.

Now everyone no longer needs to worry about being at a loss when caring for hydrangeas. Whenever you feel unsure, just review the growing methods provided by the editor! May the hydrangeas you grow from now on all be delightful with large flower heads and vivid colors!

Environmental requirements for growing hydrangeas Container care for growing hydrangeas

Many people like hydrangeas because their flowers are very dense and resemble a hydrangea ball, but because hydrangeas have very high environmental requirements, many people do not know how to grow hydrangeas. Today, follow the editor to look at the environmental requirements for growing hydrangeas and the container care for growing hydrangeas.

Environmental requirements:

Light requirements: Excessive light inhibits normal plant growth. When hydrangeas are exposed to direct sunlight, the leaves tend to turn yellow and growth is relatively slow, so the plants should be placed where there is scattered sunlight for care. Under light shade, hydrangeas not only have larger leaves but also grow very vigorously. Hydrangeas are short-day plants; their flower buds form after 40-50 days of treatment under conditions with a dark period of more than 10 hours, so when necessary, shading treatment can encourage the plants to bloom earlier.

Temperature requirements: The most suitable growing temperature for hydrangeas is 18-28°C. The temperature for flower bud differentiation should be 5-7°C. Generally, when the ambient temperature reaches around 20°C, they will bloom. If the ambient temperature can be lowered, their flowering period can also be extended. In winter, the temperature for hydrangeas should not fall below 5°C.

Humidity requirements: Hydrangeas like moisture; indoor humidity can be kept at 50%. They do not like soggy soil, otherwise the leaves will rot; during the plum rain season, pay particular attention to soil drainage, and after winter arrives, it is best to keep the potting soil dry.

Soil selection: Hydrangeas prefer a well-drained, relatively moist, humus-rich, fertile, light acidic loam (if grown long-term in alkaline soil, the leaves tend to turn yellow).

Fertilizer and water management:

Hydrangeas like moisture but dislike waterlogging, so watering should not be excessive; keeping the soil moist is ideal. In dry, hot summer weather, water with clear water or spray the leaves with clear water once at 3 p.m. every day. During the rainy season, pay attention to drainage to prevent root rot. After winter begins, water only when the soil looks dry.

During the peak growing season, apply fertilizer once a week. In dry, hot summer weather, fertilizer application should be appropriately controlled to prevent the plant from growing leggy. In addition to applying an appropriate amount of horse hoof pieces at the base of the pot as a base fertilizer, during the period from when flower buds are about to differentiate until before flowering, a dilute liquid fertilizer should be applied once every 10 days.

Hydrangeas are a relatively fertilizer-loving species. When fertilizer and water are sufficient, they grow especially vigorously; not only do they bloom profusely and have a longer flowering period, but the branches also grow in an arching shape, and the branches can be supported onto a trellis to form a flower arch or walkway, which is very spectacular when in bloom. Fertilizing should preferably be done after flowering, using decomposed human manure and urine or chicken manure water. Immediately after fertilizing, water so the fertilizer penetrates deep into the soil and is used by the plant.

Hydrangeas consume a large amount of soil nutrients during the flowering period. During this time, special attention should be paid to replenishing fertilizer and water; before the flowering period, a slow-release compound fertilizer can be applied.

Container care for growing hydrangeas:

1. Potting

It is suitable to use a soil-containing substrate.

2. Light for container growing

They like bright light but dislike intense direct sunlight, so it is best to grow them on an east-facing balcony; after flowering, they can be placed indoors in a bright spot for display and viewing.

3. Temperature for container growing

They like relatively cool temperatures, with a suitable growing temperature of 15-25°C. They dislike high temperatures and heavy moisture; in summer, strive for ventilation and coolness. In the plains of South China, getting through the summer is relatively difficult. If the winter climate is cold, the plant will shed its leaves and go dormant. In winter, the temperature should preferably not fall below 5°C. In the north, do not keep the winter temperature too high either; around below 10°C is best.

4. Watering for container growing

They like moisture but are also afraid of waterlogging. Do not let the potting soil dry out completely, otherwise leaf drop, bud death and flower wilting easily occur. Normally, water once the surface of the potting soil is dry; in summer, water twice a day if necessary, and when the air is dry, frequently spray water on the leaves. In winter, it is better to keep the potting soil somewhat dry.

5. Fertilizing for container growing

Normally apply a compound fertilizer with a nitrogen:phosphorus:potassium ratio of 1:1:1 once every half month. Stop fertilizing during the winter dormant period.

6. Pruning

After the seedlings are potted, pinch the tips 2 times to encourage branching. Usually, remove withered and yellow leaves at the base. After the flowers fade, cut the branches short. Before repotting in spring, heavily prune the plant, leaving only 3-4 nodes per branch so it regrows new shoots. When there are too many new shoots, thin out some of the overly dense and weak branches.

7. Propagation

In spring, take shoot tips about 8 cm long as cuttings, remove the lower leaves, and cut the upper leaves in half as well. Insert them into a substrate made of half sand and half peat, place in a shaded spot, and maintain relatively high air humidity; they root easily.

8. Repotting

Every spring, repot the plant into a slightly larger pot.

The above is the relevant introduction in this article. I believe after reading it you have a simple understanding of this as well. If needed, you can continue to follow No.1 Home Network to learn more information.

How to grow hydrangeas Growing methods for hydrangeas

The correct name of the hydrangea is porcelain flower; it is also known as eight immortals flower, ziyang flower, seven changes, foreign hydrangea and pompom flower. It originated in the Sichuan area of China and Japan. It is a deciduous shrub in the order Cornales, family Hydrangeaceae, genus Hydrangea. The flowers are almost entirely sterile flowers; the so-called "flowers" are merely sepals. China cultivated the eight immortals flower relatively early; hydrangeas were planted in the Jiangnan gardens built during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Parks built in the early 20th century also could not do without hydrangea plantings. Modern parks and scenic areas plant them in large masses to form landscapes. Artificially bred hydrangeas have large flowers and vivid colors, with flower colors including blue, white, purple-red, pink and peach-red; it is a common ornamental flowering shrub.

Growth habits of hydrangeas

We must first understand the growth habits of hydrangeas in order to grasp targeted growing methods for them. Hydrangeas originate in China's Yangtze River basin and prefer a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment. They fear both drought and waterlogging, are not cold-tolerant, and in cold regions the aboveground parts die in winter and do not sprout new shoots again until the following spring. Hydrangeas like fertile, moist, well-drained light loam and are relatively adaptable. The acidity or alkalinity of the soil has a considerable effect on hydrangea flower color: in acidic soil they are mostly blue, and in alkaline soil they are mostly red.

Propagation methods for hydrangeas

Cuttings, division, layering and grafting are commonly used for propagation, with cuttings being the main method. During the plum rain season, select sturdy young shoots from a young mother plant as cuttings. The base of the cutting should include a node and be dipped in mud slurry; the length is about 20 cm, and the lower leaves are removed. The suitable temperature for cuttings is 13-18°C. After insertion, shade is needed and moisture should be maintained frequently; roots develop in about 15 days to 1 month, and after surviving they can be transplanted the following year. Division propagation is best done in early spring before sprouting. Separate rooted branches from the mother plant and pot them directly; do not water too much, keep them in semi-shade for care, and after new buds sprout, switch to normal care. Layering propagation can be done when the buds begin to swell; growth occurs after 30 days, and the following spring it can be cut from the mother plant and transplanted with soil, and it can bloom that same year. Generally, air layering is done in spring from March to April, roots form in June to July, and it can be cut off and planted separately that same year. For grafting propagation, use seedlings of Viburnum macrocephalum as rootstock and do cleft grafting in spring; it survives easily. Transplanting is best done after leaf fall or before sprouting, and the original soil should be kept. The main branches easily produce leggy shoots, so after flowering they should be properly pruned to tidy the tree shape.

Cultivation and management of hydrangeas

The suitable growing temperature for hydrangeas is 18-28°C, and the winter temperature should not fall below 5°C. Flower bud differentiation requires 6-8 weeks at 5-7°C; 20°C can promote flowering, and maintaining 16°C after the flowers appear can extend the viewing period. However, high temperatures make the flowers fade quickly. Hydrangeas are short-day plants; with more than 10 hours of darkness treatment per day, flower buds form in about 45-50 days. For container-grown hydrangeas, 15-20 cm pots are commonly used. After potted plants sprout in spring, pay attention to watering sufficiently to ensure the leaves do not wilt. During the flowering period from June to July, fertilizer and water should be sufficient, with fertilizer applied once every half month. In ordinary cultivation, avoid direct sunlight; 60%-70% shade is ideal. When light is too intense in midsummer, appropriate shading can extend the viewing period. After flowering, remove the flower stems to encourage new branches.

The soil should preferably be loose, fertile and well-drained sandy loam. However, flower color is affected by soil acidity and alkalinity: acidic soil produces blue flowers, and alkaline soil produces red flowers. The potting soil should be kept moist, but watering should not be excessive; especially in the rainy season, pay attention to drainage to prevent root rot caused by waterlogging. In winter, indoor potted plants are better kept slightly dry. If too moist, the leaves easily rot. Repot once every spring. Prune appropriately to maintain a beautiful plant shape.

Potting and pruning of hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are best propagated in spring and autumn, but late spring and early summer (late April to July) is the best time. At this time, the hydrangea flowering period has basically ended in May; after removing faded flowers and withered leaves and pruning, new branches and leaf buds have already grown, and the terminal shoots and buds can be cut as cuttings. Cuttings can also be taken from late September to October. In early spring, after hydrangeas are pruned and terminal buds are taken as cuttings, many new side branches and leaf buds sprout again; because the weather turns cooler at this time, it is suitable for cutting propagation.

1. In addition to a seedbed made of bricks, for ease of moving and management, a foam box can be used as a seedbed. First cut a few openings in the bottom of the box, cover the openings with tile pieces, fill in a layer of coarse sand, then add potting soil (3 parts sand and 2 parts sterile mountain soil, mixed evenly), and level it before inserting cuttings. Cut the cuttings into sections 10-15 cm long, remove the lower leaves of the terminal shoots and keep only 2-3 leaves at the top. After cutting, bundle the cuttings and smooth them out. To help the cutting wounds heal and root sooner, soak the smoothed cuttings in a strong rooting agent (about 0.2 kg of water per packet) for 5-10 minutes before inserting. After inserting, press the soil around the cuttings firmly with your fingers so the cuttings and soil are tightly combined. Then water thoroughly once with a watering can. After that, as long as the bed soil is moist, there is no need to water, but frequently mist the cutting leaves and keep the environment around the seedbed moist. If the weather is hot and sunlight is strong, a shade shed must be built for shading. With such careful management, the wounds begin to heal in about 25 days, and new roots grow from the nodes.

2. Potting and cultivation care: After about 25 days of careful management, the hydrangea has survived and begun to grow new leaf buds upward from the terminal buds; at this point it must be planted separately into pots for management. The potting soil for cultivating hydrangeas uses coniferous soil (relatively high in acid) plus chaff, and a compound fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (according to the amount of coniferous soil) mixed evenly with the soil and piled for full fermentation for more than half a year; before use, turn it over and sun-dry it for several days. After the seedlings survive and the terminal shoots grow to about 10 cm, the first pinching can be done to encourage lower new leaf buds to sprout; when the several branch buds that grow later reach a certain length, do the second pinching, and let them grow evenly and lushly. When the main trunk and branches are thick and strong, leave only 3-4 branches and let them grow. From surviving after potting to the period when branches are fixed, fertilize 3-4 times, mainly with monopotassium phosphate.

Pest and disease control for hydrangeas

1. The main diseases and pests of hydrangeas are wilt disease, powdery mildew and leaf spot disease; spray with a 600-fold dilution of 65% zineb wettable powder for control.

2. Pests include aphids and mirid bugs, which can be killed by spraying with a 1500-fold dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate.

Precautions for growing hydrangeas

1. Hydrangeas are toxic, and accidentally eating the stems and leaves of hydrangeas can cause colic, abdominal pain, diarrhea, vomiting, rapid breathing and bloody stools. In many people's imagination, hydrangeas are as edible as cotton candy and large round bread, but in fact, once hydrangeas are eaten, abdominal pain appears within a few hours. Other typical poisoning symptoms include skin pain, vomiting, weakness and sweating, and there are reports that patients may even experience coma, convulsions and collapse of blood circulation in the body. Fortunately, an antidote for hydrangea poisoning has now been developed. In addition, note that hydrangeas easily cause allergies, so it is generally not recommended to place them in the bedroom. It is suggested that flower lovers, when planting flowers, had best choose according to the individual, selecting flowers they like and that are harmless; do not plant too many flowers indoors, and pay attention to keeping the air circulating.

2. When growing hydrangeas, pay attention to appropriate watering. After the start of spring, hydrangeas must be given rain, dew and sunlight, and watered in the morning and evening.

The above is the editor's introduction to hydrangea growing methods. Do you grow hydrangeas at home? I hope it is helpful to you!