How to grow a Potentilla fruticosa bonsai? Master these care tips
I. Humidity Potentilla fruticosa loves humid or semi-humid environments, and its required air humidity is relatively high, generally around 50%-70. We usually need to pay attention to the air humidity and not let it get too dry, otherwise it may cause poor development and leaf drop in Potentilla fruticosa.
I. Humidity
Potentilla fruticosa loves humid or semi-humid environments, and its required air humidity is relatively high, generally around 50%-70&. We usually need to pay attention to the air humidity and not let it get too dry, otherwise it may cause poor development and leaf drop in Potentilla fruticosa.
II. Temperature
Potentilla fruticosa originates from subtropical regions, so it has relatively high requirements for the minimum temperature. Generally, the winter temperature for Potentilla fruticosa should be above 8 degrees; if it is below 8 degrees, growth may stop.
III. Light
Potentilla fruticosa is a light-loving plant with strong adaptability to light. In shaded places it may grow poorly, causing the flowers and leaves to fail to develop well. Therefore, when cultivating a Potentilla fruticosa bonsai, we should place it in a place with sufficient light as much as possible, such as a balcony or living room.
Growing a Potentilla fruticosa bonsai requires good management of the surrounding environment, including temperature, humidity and light. So besides ornamental use, what other uses does Potentilla fruticosa have? Let's take a look next!
Making a Potentilla fruticosa bonsai
I. Choosing a pot
Choose a flower pot of roughly appropriate size, and cover the bottom of the pot with two pieces of tile. We need to ensure that the potting soil is not washed out by water while excess water can drain out. Then put in a layer of ceramsite as a drainage layer, then add organic fertilizer and a thin layer of substrate in turn, and finally put in the plant and fill with nutrient soil.
II. Transplanting
When transplanting small seedlings, first dig the planting hole, spread a layer of organic fertilizer about 5 cm thick at the bottom of the hole, cover with a layer of soil, then put in the seedling. Be careful to keep the fertilizer separate from the root system. After putting in the seedling, fill another layer of soil to cover the root system, and water thoroughly once.
III. Removing from the pot
Potentilla fruticosa grows very fast, so at this point we can choose to remove it from the pot. Place the potted plant on the ground, first lightly pat it to loosen it from the pot around the sides, then turn the flower pot upside down, support the plant with your left hand, pat the bottom of the pot with your right hand, and slowly let the plant come out.
Through the detailed introduction above, do you already understand how to make a Potentilla fruticosa bonsai? But besides ornamental use, Potentilla fruticosa can also be used as medicine! So next, follow the editor to take a look at what effects and functions Potentilla fruticosa has!
Potentilla fruticosa Potentilla fruticosa illustrated guide: how to grow Potentilla fruticosa / how to propagate Potentilla fruticosa
Potentilla fruticosa profilePotentilla fruticosa Potentilla fruticosa
Aliases: Jinlamei, Jinlaomei
Classification: herbaceous flowering plant
Family and genus: Plantae, Angiosperms, Dicotyledons, Rosales, Rosaceae, Potentilla
Full bloom period: summer
Potentilla fruticosa (scientific name: Potentilla fruticosa), also known as Jinlaomei, is called Gesang flower in Tibetan (Tibetan pinyin: Gaisang Mêdog, Wylie: bsKal bZang Me Tog, transliterated as "Gesang Meiduo"), and is the city flower of Lhasa. It is a deciduous shrub of the genus Potentilla in the Rosaceae family, widely distributed in alpine regions from the subarctic to the north temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere.
How to grow Potentilla fruticosa and precautions Introduction to Potentilla fruticosa
Potentilla fruticosa (scientific name: Potentilla fruticosa), also known as Jinlaomei, is called Gesang flower in Tibetan (Tibetan pinyin: Gaisang Mêdog, Wylie: bsKal bZang Me Tog, transliterated as "Gesang Meiduo"), and is the city flower of Lhasa. It is a deciduous shrub of the genus Potentilla in the Rosaceae family, widely distributed in alpine regions from the subarctic to the north temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere.
Morphological characteristics of Potentilla fruticosa Branches
Potentilla fruticosa is a shrub, 0.5-2 m tall, much branched, with bark peeling longitudinally. Branchlets are reddish brown, covered with long soft hairs when young.
Leaves
Potentilla fruticosa has pinnately compound leaves, with 2 pairs of leaflets, rarely 3 leaflets; the base of the upper pair of leaflets extends downward and merges with the leaf rachis; the petiole is covered with sericeous hairs or sparsely soft hairs; the leaflets are oblong, obovate-oblong or ovate-lanceolate, 0.7-2 cm long and 0.4-1 cm wide, entire, with flat margins, acute or rounded-obtuse at the apex, cuneate at the base, green on both sides, sparsely covered with sericeous hairs or soft hairs or nearly hairless when shed; stipules membranous, broad, covered with long soft hairs outside or shed.
Flowers
Potentilla fruticosa flowers are solitary or several born at the branch tips; the pedicel is densely covered with long soft hairs or sericeous hairs; the flower diameter is 2.2-3 cm; sepals are ovate, acute to shortly acuminate at the apex; epicalyx segments are lanceolate to obovate-lanceolate, acuminate to acute at the apex, nearly equal in length to the sepals, sparsely covered with sericeous hairs outside; petals are yellow, broadly obovate, rounded-obtuse at the apex, longer than the sepals; the style is nearly basal, club-shaped, slightly slender at the base, constricted at the top, with an enlarged stigma.
The flowering period of Potentilla fruticosa is May-July.
Fruit
The achene of Potentilla fruticosa is nearly ovoid, brownish brown, 1.5 mm long, covered with long soft hairs outside.
The fruiting period of Potentilla fruticosa is July-September.
Ecological habits of Potentilla fruticosa
Potentilla fruticosa grows in alpine shrublands, alpine meadows, mountain slopes, roadsides and other places at an altitude of 3600-4800 m.
Potentilla fruticosa can tolerate a low temperature of -50℃, prefers slightly acidic to neutral, well-drained moist soil, and is also tolerant of drought and poor soil.
Cultivation techniques of Potentilla fruticosa
Sowing and seedling cultivation Soil preparation Before land preparation, water thoroughly once, and when the soil moisture is suitable, carry out rotary tillage to a depth of 20-25 cm, and pass the surface 10 cm of soil through a 1 cm mesh sieve. Soil disinfection Spread carbofuran on the seedbed at a rate of 45 g/m2, then shallow plough once to mix the insecticide for controlling underground pests. Ten days before sowing, spray a 1% potassium permanganate aqueous solution on the seedbed for sterilization and disinfection. Preparation of nutrient soil The culture soil is used for the bottom layer of the sowing furrow and for covering the seeds. Prepare the nutrient soil in the ratio of river sand : peat : garden soil = 15 : 40 : 45, and sterilize by drying at a high temperature of 105℃ for 4 hours. The pH value of the culture soil is 6.37. Seed germination promotion Soak the seeds in clean water at an initial temperature of 50℃, using an amount of water 3 times the volume of the seeds, let it cool naturally to room temperature, and soak for 24 hours. Remove the seeds and transfer them to a constant-temperature incubator, and germinate them at a constant 25℃ until 20%-80% or more of the seeds have sprouted. Sowing Use the water-settling drill sowing method, with the sowing period in mid-April. Irrigate enough bottom water in the sowing furrow, and after the water infiltrates, place 1-2 cm of culture soil underneath. Mix the seeds with wet sand at 1:2, sow them in the sowing furrow, and cover with culture soil to a thickness of about 0.2 cm. Cover the sowing bed surface with agricultural plastic film to help retain moisture and maintain a constant temperature.
Propagation methods
Seed selection
Before sowing, the seeds must first be selected. Whether the seeds are selected well or not directly affects whether sowing can succeed.
1. It is best to use seeds collected in the current year. The longer the seeds are stored, the lower their germination rate.
2. Choose seeds that are plump and free of damage or deformity.
3. Choose seeds free of pests and diseases.
Disinfection
Disinfection includes two concepts: one refers to disinfecting the seeds, and the other refers to disinfecting the sowing substrate. For household seed disinfection, it is common to soak the seeds in hot water at about 60℃ for a quarter of an hour, and then use warm hot water to promote germination for 12-24 hours. To disinfect the sowing substrate, the best method is to put it in a pot and heat it until hot, so that any pests and diseases can be killed by the heat.
Germination promotion
Soak the seeds in warm hot water (at a temperature similar to face-washing water) for 12-24 hours, until the seeds absorb water and swell. For very common seeds that germinate easily, this step can be omitted.
Sowing
For tiny seeds that are difficult to pick up with hands or other tools, you can moisten one end of a toothpick with water and stick the seeds one by one onto the surface of the substrate, then cover with substrate 1 cm thick, and then place the sowing flower pot into water with the water depth at 1/2-2/3 of the height of the pot, allowing the water to slowly soak upward (this method is called the "pot soaking method"); for larger seeds that can be picked up by hand or other tools, directly place the seeds into the substrate and sow them at a spacing of 3 x 5 cm. After sowing, cover with substrate to a thickness 2-3 times that of the seeds. After sowing, use a sprayer or a fine-holed watering can to moisten the sowing substrate, and later when the potting soil is slightly dry, water again. Still be careful not to water too forcefully, so as not to wash the seeds away;
Management after sowing
When sowing in late autumn, early spring or winter, if a cold wave with low temperature occurs, you can wrap the flower pot with plastic film to help keep warm and retain moisture; after the seedlings emerge, promptly uncover the film, and let the seedlings receive sunlight before 9:30 every morning or after 3:30 in the afternoon, otherwise the seedlings will grow very weak; after most of the seeds have emerged, appropriate thinning is needed: pull out the diseased and unhealthy seedlings so that the remaining seedlings have a certain amount of space from each other; when most of the seedlings have grown 3 or more leaves, they can be transplanted.
Planting methods Cuttings
Softwood cuttings are often carried out in late spring and early autumn using current-year branches, or hardwood cuttings are carried out in early spring using last-year branches.
Cutting substrate
This refers to the nutrient soil, river sand, peat soil and other materials used for cuttings. Limited by conditions, it is difficult for home cuttings to obtain an ideal cutting substrate. Medium-coarse river sand can also be used, but it should be rinsed several times with clean water before use. Do not use sea sand or river sand from saline-alkali areas; they are not suitable for the growth of flowering plants.
Selection of cutting branches
When carrying out softwood cuttings, during the period of vigorous growth from late spring to early autumn, select strong current-year branches as cuttings. After cutting the branches off, select the sturdy parts and cut them into sections 5-15 cm long, each section carrying more than 3 leaf nodes. When cutting the cuttings, note that the upper cut should be made horizontally about 1 cm above the uppermost leaf node, and the lower cut should be made diagonally about 0.5 cm below the lowermost leaf node. Both the upper and lower cuts should be smooth (the knife should be sharp). When carrying out hardwood cuttings, after the temperature rises in early spring, select healthy last-year branches as cuttings. Each cutting usually retains 3-4 nodes, and the cutting method is the same as for softwood cuttings.
Management after cuttings
Temperature
The optimum temperature for rooting of cuttings is 20℃-30℃. Below 20℃, rooting of cuttings is difficult and slow; above 30℃, the upper and lower cuts of the cuttings are easily infected by pathogens and rot, and the higher the temperature, the greater the proportion of rot. When low temperature is encountered after cutting, the main measure for keeping warm is to wrap the flower pot or container used for cuttings with plastic film; when the temperature is too high after cutting, the main cooling measure is to shade the cuttings, blocking 50-80% of sunlight, and at the same time spray the cuttings 3-5 times a day. On sunny days with higher temperatures, spray more often; on cloudy and rainy days with lower temperatures and higher humidity, spray less often or not at all.
Humidity
After cutting, the relative air humidity must be maintained at 75-85%. The basic requirement for rooting of cuttings is that before the cuttings root, it must be ensured that the cuttings remain fresh and tender and can carry out photosynthesis to produce rooting substances. However, cuttings that have not rooted cannot absorb enough water to maintain their internal water balance. Therefore, spraying must be used to reduce water evaporation from the cuttings: under shaded conditions, spray the cuttings 3-5 times a day. On sunny days with higher temperatures, spray more often; on cloudy and rainy days with lower temperatures, spray less often or not at all. However, excessive spraying can easily cause the cuttings to be infected by pathogens and rot, because many kinds of pathogens exist in water.
Light
Cuttings propagation cannot do without sunlight, because the cuttings still need to continue photosynthesis to produce nutrients and rooting substances to supply their rooting needs. However, the stronger the light, the higher the temperature inside the cuttings, the more vigorous the transpiration of the cuttings, and the more water they consume, which is not conducive to the survival of the cuttings. Therefore, after cutting, 50-80% of sunlight must be blocked, and after the root system grows, gradually remove the shade net: on sunny days, remove the shade net at 4:00 p.m. every day, and cover the shade net before 9:00 a.m. the next day.
Layering propagation
Select a healthy branch, and from about 15-30 cm below the top shoot, peel off a ring of bark. The width of the wound after peeling should be about 1 cm, and the depth should be just enough to peel off the outer bark. Cut a piece of plastic film 10-20 cm long and 5-8 cm wide, place some moistened garden soil on it, and wrap the girdled part like wrapping a wound. Tie the upper and lower ends of the film tightly, with the middle bulging. Roots will form in about four to six weeks. After rooting, cut off the branch together with the root system, and it becomes a new plant.
Potting or transplanting
When potting small seedlings or repotting large plants that have been grown for several years, first put a 2-3 cm thick layer of coarse-grained substrate at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer, sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer on it as base fertilizer, about 1-2 cm thick, then cover with a thin layer of substrate about 1-2 cm thick, and then put in the plant, so as to separate the fertilizer from the root system and avoid burning the roots. After potting, water thoroughly once, and place it in a shaded environment for one week of maintenance. When transplanting small seedlings, first dig the planting hole, spread a layer of organic fertilizer at the bottom of the planting hole as bottom fertilizer (base fertilizer), about 4-6 cm thick, then cover with a layer of soil and put in the seedling, so as to separate the fertilizer from the root system and avoid burning the roots. After putting in the seedling, backfill the soil to cover the root system, press the soil firmly with your feet, and water thoroughly once.
Humidity management
It likes a humid or semi-dry climate environment, and requires the relative air temperature of the growing environment to be 50-70%. When the relative air humidity is too low, the lower leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the upper leaves lose their luster.
Temperature management
Because it originates from subtropical regions, it has very strict requirements for winter temperature. When the ambient temperature is below 8℃, growth stops.
Light management
It has strong adaptability to light. When maintaining it indoors, place it in a place with bright light as much as possible, such as a well-lit living room, bedroom, study and other places. After maintaining it indoors for a period of time (about one month), move it outdoors to a shaded place (with heat preservation conditions in winter) for maintenance for a period of time (about one month), and alternate in this way.
Fertilizer and water management
For potted plants, in addition to adding organic fertilizer when potting, appropriate fertilizer and water management should also be carried out during usual maintenance. Spring, summer and autumn These three seasons are its peak growth seasons. Fertilizer and water management follows the cycle of "Huabao" - clean water - "Huabao" - clean water, with an interval of about 1-4 days. On sunny days or during high temperatures, the interval is shorter; on cloudy and rainy days or during low temperatures, the interval is longer or no watering is done. Winter During the winter dormant period, the main task is to control fertilizer and water well.
For field-planted plants, in spring and summer, according to drought conditions, apply fertilizer and water 2-4 times: first open a small circular ditch 30-100 cm outside the root crown (the larger the plant, the farther from the root crown), with the ditch width and depth both 20 cm. Sprinkle 25-50 jin of organic fertilizer into the ditch, or 1-5 liang of granular compound fertilizer (chemical fertilizer), and then water thoroughly. After winter begins and before spring begins, apply fertilizer once more according to the above method, but do not water.
Pruning
In winter, when the plant enters dormancy or semi-dormancy, cut off weak, pest-damaged, dead, overly dense and other branches. Branches can also be tidied up in combination with cuttings.
Repotting
As long as it is maintained properly, it will grow very fast. When it grows to a certain size, consider giving it a larger pot so that it can continue to grow vigorously. The culture soil and component ratio used for repotting can choose one of the following: vegetable garden soil : cinder = 3:1; or garden soil : medium-coarse river sand : sawdust (mushroom residue) = 4:1:2; or one of paddy soil, pond mud, and leaf mold.
Removing from the pot
Place the flower to be repotted on the ground, first lightly pat the sides of the pot with your palm so that the root system is shaken and separates from the pot wall, then place the flower pot upside down on your left hand, gently hold the plant between the index and middle fingers of your left hand, support the rim of the pot with your wrist and fingertips, pat the bottom of the pot with your right hand, then use your thumb to push the root soil downward from the bottom hole, and let the plant come out. After it comes out, gently pat the potting soil with both palms to let excess soil fall off.
Flower pot preparation
Choose a flower pot of appropriate size. Cover the bottom hole of the pot with two pieces of tile or thin foam pieces, ensuring both that the potting soil is not washed out by water and that excess water can drain out in time. On the tile or foam, put a layer of ceramsite or crushed red brick as a drainage layer, about 2-3 cm thick. On the drainage layer, put organic fertilizer, about 1-3 cm thick. On the fertilizer, put a thin layer of substrate, about 2 cm thick, to separate the root system from the fertilizer. Finally, put the plant in, fill with nutrient soil, and leave about 2-3 cm from the pot rim.
Variety classification of Potentilla fruticosa
Potentilla fruticosa is widely distributed in the mountains of the north temperate zone, with records in Asia, Europe and America. The morphology of branches, leaves and flowers varies greatly. Some believe they are varieties and forms of the same species; some believe that those produced in Europe and America are the same species, with North America as their distribution center, while those produced in eastern Asia are another species, with the main difference being leaf texture and hairiness. Those produced in Europe and America have thin and soft leaves, sparse leaf veins, and fewer hairs on both surfaces, while those produced in Asia have harder and thicker leaves, dense leaf veins, densely covered with sericeous hairs on the upper surface, and hairless or slightly soft-haired on the lower surface. We believe that these leaf characteristics are greatly affected by the ecological environment, and can only be regarded as variation below the species level, and cannot be regarded as independent species. In particular, the specimens collected in **, Heilongjiang and other provinces and regions of our country are not easy to distinguish from European specimens, while those produced in the southwestern provinces of our country have more appressed hairs on the upper surface of the leaves, or are densely covered with white sericeous hairs on the lower surface, so it is more appropriate to reclassify them as varieties.
Potentilla fruticosa var. appressipilosa(variety)
The main difference between this variety and the original variety is that the upper surface of the leaflets is densely covered with appressed white soft hairs, the lower surface has more obvious and prominent reticulate veins, is sparsely covered with soft hairs or hairless, and the margins often curl downward. Flowering and fruiting period is July-August.
Produced in Sichuan, Yunnan, Tibet. Grows on mountain slopes, grasslands, shrublands or rocks in forests, at an altitude of 2600-4600 m.
Potentilla fruticosa var. albicans (Economic Plant Handbook)
The lower surface of the leaflets of this variety is densely covered with silvery white tomentum or sericeous hairs, making it easy to distinguish from the original variety. Flowering and fruiting period is June-September.
Produced in **, Sichuan, Yunnan, Tibet. Grows in alpine grasslands, dry mountain slopes, forest margins and shrublands, at an altitude of 400-**** m.
Potentilla fruticosa var. pumila(variety)
Cushion shrub, densely clustered, 5-10 cm tall. Leaflets 5, elliptical, 3-5 mm long, 3-4 mm wide, densely covered with appressed hairs on the upper surface, with obvious reticulate veins on the lower surface, nearly hairless or sparsely soft-haired, leaf margins curled back; single flower terminal, flower diameter 1-1.5 cm, almost sessile or with a very short stalk, easily distinguished from other varieties. Flowering period is June.
Produced in Tibet. Grows in alpine meadows, shrublands and gravel slopes, at an altitude of 4200-5000 m.
Distribution area of Potentilla fruticosa
Potentilla fruticosa is produced in Heilongjiang, Jilin, Liaoning, Inner Mongolia, Hebei, Shanxi, Shaanxi, Gansu, **, Sichuan, Yunnan, Tibet. Grows on mountain slopes, grasslands, gravel slopes, shrublands and forest margins, at an altitude of 1000-4000 m.
Potentilla fruticosa is widely distributed in alpine regions from the subarctic to the north temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere. It is extremely cold-resistant and can endure a low temperature of minus 50℃, so it is found in Siberia and even the Arctic region. Potentilla fruticosa: produced in Qinghai, Gansu, Sichuan and Yunnan; distributed in Northeast and North China; widely distributed in the north temperate zone. On the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau of our country, Tibetans call Potentilla fruticosa "Gesang Meiduo", that is, Gesang flower. It grows among rocks on mountain tops or in shrublands. Deciduous shrub. Odd-pinnately compound leaves, with filamentous soft hairs on both sides.
Commonly present: Produced in various places in Northeast, North China, Northwest and Southwest China; also distributed in Japan, Mongolia, Europe and North America. The Hebei Yanqing Horticulture Center has introduced it.
Medicinal dietary or medicinal value of Potentilla fruticosa
The medical information and health dietary information on Huhuawang are for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problems should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and the treatment of any disease should follow medical advice.
Ultimate flower protection task: love yourself, start from reality, and strictly follow medical advice. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope, face it bravely, warm the silent world with love, and care for the flower field in your heart with your heart.
Potentilla fruticosa has dense branches and leaves and bright yellow flowers. It is suitable as an ornamental shrub in gardens, or as a low hedge, and is also very beautiful. The leaves and fruits contain tannins and can be used to extract tannin extract. The young leaves can be used as a substitute for tea. The flowers and leaves are used as medicine, and have the effects of strengthening the spleen, resolving dampness, clearing summer heat and regulating menstruation. In the mountainous areas of Inner Mongolia, it is a medium-grade forage plant, and camels like to eat it most. Tibetans widely use it as a building material, filling it under the eaves or above and below doors and windows.
Medicinal value
Chemical composition
The branches of Potentilla fruticosa contain flavonoids (689 mg%, namely quercetin, kaempferol, cyanidin), tannins and quinones, as well as ellagic acid, caffeic acid, sinapic acid and ferulic acid. The leaves, bark and xylem contain large amounts of tannins, and the flowers contain a small amount of tannins. These tannins belong to gallotannins and catechin tannins. Fresh leaves contain 145.9-223.3 mg% vitamin C, dry leaves contain 292.4-380.4 mg%, and they contain 8.35 mg% and 15.12 mg% carotene respectively.
Harvest time
1. Potentilla fruticosa: flowers June-September.
2. Potentilla parvifolia: flowering period July-August.
Collection and processing
For traditional Chinese medicine, collect the inflorescences and leaves during the summer flowering period, and dry them separately in the shade for later use. For Mongolian medicine, harvest the flowering stems and branches in summer and autumn, dry them in the shade, and use them raw or calcined into ash.
Medicinal parts
The flowers and leaves are used as medicine.
Storage method
Collect the flowers and leaves at peak flowering, remove the old branches, and dry in the sun.
Properties, flavors and functions
Bitter in taste, cool in nature. Strengthens the spleen and resolves dampness. Leaves: slightly sweet in taste, neutral in nature. Clears summerheat, benefits the brain and clears the heart, strengthens the stomach and aids digestion, regulates menstruation. In Mongolian medicine, sweet and astringent in taste, neutral in nature. Aids digestion, relieves cough, reduces swelling; the ash: can dry "Xiri Wusu".
Indications
Treats indigestion, edema, leukorrhea with reddish-white discharge, and mastitis. Leaves: treat heatstroke, dizziness, food stagnation, and irregular menstruation. In Mongolian medicine, treats indigestion, cough, edema, "Xiri Wusu" syndrome, and mastitis.
Dosage and usage
In Chinese medicine, 6-10 grams, decocted in water, or steeped in water as a tea substitute. In Mongolian medicine
The uses and purposes of Dasiphora fruticosa (shrubby cinquefoil)
Other: The branches and leaves of Dasiphora fruticosa are soft, and in spring horses and sheep like to eat them, and cattle also graze on them. Their crude protein and fat contents are both high, and the total energy is also relatively high. Therefore, in areas where high-quality forage is scarce, Dasiphora fruticosa is still a forage grass with feeding value.
According to a 1977 measurement, when the coverage of Dasiphora fruticosa is 30%-50%, the yield of dry stems and leaves can reach 708.8 kg/hectare, making it a relatively high-yielding forage grass in alpine regions.
Dasiphora fruticosa plants are compact, with brilliant flower colors and a long flowering period, making them a good flowering tree species; they can be planted in alpine gardens or rock gardens, and can also be planted as hedges.
The cultural background of Dasiphora fruticosa: verification in medical books
"Blue Beryl" records: "Bannage has red stems, yellow flowers, and small leaves; burned to ash, it treats breast distension and pain in women and reduces ascites."
"Jingzhu Bencao" records that Bannage treats breast distension and pain in women. This product has woody stems, yellow-brown, and small leaves. It is divided into yellow and white types. The white one is Bangaer (Dasiphora davurica, silver cinquefoil), which bears white flowers. The yellow one is called Bannage (Dasiphora fruticosa, shrubby cinquefoil), which bears yellow flowers, and is further divided into two types, large and small. The large one is the same as Dasiphora davurica. The small one is about one zha (about 30 cm) tall, with slender, smooth stems. Both large types grow on both the sunny and shady sides of highlands, while the small type of Dasiphora fruticosa grows in waterlogged flats. The ash of all three can dry yellow water. Rangjun Duojie said: "Bannage (regardless of yellow or white) treats indigestion and lung disease." This product is the yellow-flowered species in the above records, namely Dasiphora fruticosa.
Pictures of Dasiphora fruticosa