How do you care for the String of Pearls? Remember these few cultivation points
1. Because the leaves are fleshy and juicy, it is drought-tolerant. When watering during cultivation, it is better to keep it dry than wet; this is one of the keys to success. When the weather is dry, you can spray water on the leaves and vines more often to make up for the lack of moisture and keep the beads green and plump. It prefers partial shade; harsh sun exposure may scorch the beads, while too little light will make growth weak
1. Because the leaves are fleshy and juicy, it is drought-tolerant. When watering during cultivation, it is better to keep it dry than wet; this is one of the keys to success. When the weather is dry, you can spray water on the leaves and vines more often to make up for the lack of moisture and keep the beads green and plump. It prefers partial shade; harsh sun exposure may scorch the beads, while too little light will make growth weak.
2. The String of Pearls has a very shallow root system, so it can be planted in a shallow pot. Generally, use a tile to cover the drainage hole and spread a layer of coal cinders or coarse sand to increase aeration and drainage. For the soil, it is best to use leaf mold mixed with a certain amount of sand, with a soil-to-sand ratio of about 1:3.
3. The String of Pearls likes warmth and humidity, is relatively cold-tolerant and heat-tolerant, and the most suitable temperature is about 20°C to 28°C. Growth is slow under both high and low temperatures, and in a high-temperature environment above 30°C it almost goes dormant, so watering and fertilizing should be reduced, otherwise the roots rot easily - this is also one of the keys to successful cultivation.
4. In spring and autumn, when the String of Pearls grows vigorously, it should be given "light fertilizer applied frequently." Spraying the leaves with 1-3‰ nitrogen fertilizer and monopotassium phosphate helps make the beads greener and plumper, improving their ornamental value.
5. The String of Pearls rarely suffers from pests or diseases. Aphids in spring are one of them; remove them promptly or spray 1500x omethoate to kill them. Mites in summer and autumn are another; use 1000x dicofol to kill them. Pay attention to ventilation and increase leaf-surface humidity to reduce mite infestation.
6. The String of Pearls can be propagated by cuttings. The vines easily produce aerial roots. In spring and autumn, cut a few segments, bury half of each in sand or loose soil, and keep them moist but not waterlogged; they will root quickly for planting. The String of Pearls is propagated by cuttings. Cut the vines into 8-10 cm segments and lay them flat, half-buried in the potting soil. At first, maintain 50%-60% humidity, and after half a month they will root and survive. After surviving, control the amount of watering and keep the potting soil alternating between dry and wet, which is beneficial to plant growth.
The above is an introduction to growing the String of Pearls. Do you like it? If you want to grow a pot, try it according to the methods above!
The 100,000 Whys of Succulent Cultivation?
1. How do you care for the String of Pearls (Emerald Beads)?A perennial evergreen trailing fleshy herbaceous plant, in the plant kingdom, Asteraceae, genus Senecio, native to the arid subtropical regions of southwestern Africa. Flowering period: December to January of the following year. After three to four years it can grow to more than one meter long. In October it blooms small white or brown flowers, and the buds are thin red strips. Watering should favor dryness over wetness; when the weather is dry, you can spray water. It prefers partial shade, and the soil-to-sand ratio is about 1:3. It likes warmth and humidity, is relatively cold-tolerant and heat-tolerant, and the most suitable temperature is about 20°C to 28°C. Growth is slow under both high and low temperatures, and in a high-temperature environment above 30°C it almost goes dormant, so watering and fertilizing should be reduced, otherwise the roots rot easily. In spring and autumn, when it grows vigorously, it should be given "light fertilizer applied frequently." Spraying the leaves with 1-3‰ nitrogen fertilizer and monopotassium phosphate helps make the beads greener and plumper, improving their ornamental value.
2. How do you care for the Rosary Vine?
Apocynaceae, genus Ceropegia, distributed in South Africa and Zimbabwe. The plant is vining and can trail on the ground or hang down, reaching a maximum length of about 90-120 cm. It likes warmth. When light is sufficient, it grows luxuriantly, and it grows even better under scattered light. In summer, avoid direct strong sunlight from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. It likes slightly moist soil and is also relatively drought-tolerant, so the potting soil is best kept half dry and half wet, alternating between dry and wet. In winter, water once every 10-15 days and keep the potting soil slightly moist. The suitable temperature is 15-28°C, and spring and autumn are the vigorous growing seasons for the Rosary Vine. If the summer temperature exceeds 32°C, growth stalls, so appropriate shading and ventilation are needed to lower the temperature. Below 8°C in winter, it begins to drop leaves and wither. The Rosary Vine does not need much fertilizer; apply compound fertilizer three to four times a year (light fertilizer applied frequently). When repotting, add some base fertilizer according to the pot size as appropriate, and repot once every two years.
3. How do you care for the Jelly Bean Plant?
Crassulaceae, genus Sedum [Jelly Bean Plant] Sedum rubrotinctum, with leaves like a baby's fingers, showing a beautiful green during the spring-to-summer growing period. In autumn and winter it begins to turn red, and in a sunny and dry environment it can become even redder. If there is insufficient sunlight, the stems will stretch. It can send out roots from fallen leaves, making it easy to grow. Water only after the soil is completely dry, and avoid harsh sun exposure in summer. When the temperature is low in winter, watering should also be reduced. The flowers are yellow and star-shaped, opening in spring. The Jelly Bean Plant likes warmth and an environment with a marked temperature difference between day and night. It has strong adaptability to temperature and can grow well between 10°C and 28°C. In autumn and winter, as the temperature drops and light increases, the fleshy leaves gradually turn red, so artificially lowering the temperature during cultivation can enhance its ornamental value. In winter, room temperature should not be lower than 5°C. The Jelly Bean Plant likes light, and throughout the growing period it should be given ample light. However, summer sun exposure can cause leaf scorch, so appropriate shading or half-day sun is fine, and direct harsh sun at noon should be avoided. The Jelly Bean Plant grows slowly and is drought-tolerant, so heavy fertilizing and heavy watering are not suitable; water when the soil is dry and water thoroughly, while in winter when room temperature is lower, reduce the amount and frequency of watering. Generally apply organic liquid fertilizer once a month. In summer, pay attention to maintaining good ventilation. The Jelly Bean Plant grows relatively slowly, and generally after 3 years of cultivation the plant shape begins to become messy, so pruning should be done in advance. Propagation methods: usually cuttings are used, and both stem cuttings and leaf cuttings work. For stem cuttings, use pruned branches, cut them into 5 cm stem segments, preferably let them dry in a cool place for 3 to 5 days, and insert them into the seedbed after the cut surface is slightly dry. For leaf cutting propagation, remove complete leaves from the stem (be careful not to damage the leaves), let them sit for 3 days, and then insert them. This method has a high propagation rate and is suitable for mass propagation, but it takes longer to form plants. Disease control: The Jelly Bean Plant has relatively few diseases, with occasional leaf spot and stem rot. Leaf spot is mainly caused by poor ventilation and high air humidity. Systemic fungicides can be used for control. Improving ventilation is the key to preventing leaf spot. Stem rot is mostly caused by an overly humid environment in winter. Healthy upper stem segments of the plant should be cut for propagation, while avoiding excessive and frequent watering in winter and keeping the potting soil slightly dry.
4. How do you care for the Hens and Chicks?
The Hens and Chicks has a habit: when it gets old, its lower old leaves wither, and this is still normal. If they all turn yellow, then it is sick. If the roots have rotted, it means overwatering; if the roots are fine, it means it has not been watered for an extremely long time. In the former case it will surely die; in the latter case, water it a little and it will slowly revive.
If the first and second layers of leaves open wide apart, it is caused by poor light. Place it near a windowsill and it will grow neatly. The Hens and Chicks was once all the rage in Shanghai. It is especially gorgeous in winter! Conversely, in summer it enters dormancy; if watered too much, it will either die or wilt, so the middle and small leaves also show no growth.
5. What are the functions of the roots, stems, and leaves of succulents?
I will explain it in a simple, easy-to-understand way, keeping it brief: roots, stems, leaves.
First, the function of roots - absorbing organic nutrients from the soil: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other trace elements, as well as water, and anchoring the plant body. Loose potting soil: retains water, prevents root rot, and benefits root growth.
Second, the function of stems - transporting the nutrients produced and absorbed above and below, and supporting the plant body.
Third, the function of leaves - succulent leaves have four special functions:
1. Warehouse, storing water and nutrients.
2. Manufacturing chemical fertilizers through photosynthesis.
3. The leaf surface has a thin waxy layer that prevents moisture evaporation.
4. Respiration. The leaf surface is covered with many tiny closable stomata, divided into two groups. One group works during the day, releasing oxygen and taking in carbon dioxide, and closes at night. The other group works at night, releasing oxygen and taking in carbon dioxide, and closes during the day. This function is not possessed by other plants (except a few). Therefore, placing cacti and succulents indoors during both day and night serves to purify the air.
Another function is that they also take in harmful gases as a side food.
6. How do you mix soil for succulents?
Soil is one of the keys to growing succulents well. Because succulents like slightly acidic soil, while Shanghai's surface soil is slightly alkaline, and also poor in nutrients and compacted, it is not suitable for growing delicate succulents. From nearly ten years of exploration: peat soil and grass peat soil are best. Peat soil is expensive and genuine ones are rare, so I no longer use it. Grass peat soil was originally acidic soil (medium acid), and half of rice husk ash (rice husk ash is still slightly alkaline soil) had to be used to neutralize it into slightly acidic soil. This is the basic life soil for growing succulents! Then mix in a small amount of perlite (to loosen the soil), vermiculite (trace elements), bone meal (phosphorus and potassium fertilizer), etc., to make succulent soil. Among the small amounts mentioned above, perlite is a bit more. But! The texture of today's grass peat soil has changed, and I once suffered a big loss because of it! The succulents almost could not grow well. After several experiments I finally found the reason: the original grass peat soil was locally produced and locally brewed, but now it is gone; it is all artificially crushed grass piled up and slightly decomposed before sale, changing from acidic to slightly acidic, close to slightly alkaline! So mixing in rice husk ash ruined it! Now it can be used without adding it. Growing succulents well is the top priority for growers. As for what family and genus they belong to, I do not specially study that; there is no time! But I am still not careless with the ones I have on hand! Nowadays some beginner succulent growers also talk endlessly about what family and genus things are. I think one should learn and ask more about such things. After basically mastering cultivation skills, it is not too late to learn. There is now a new succulent soil mix in society, introduced from Japan. It is made by mixing kanuma soil, akadama soil, granular grass peat soil (or granular fairy soil), and clivia granular soil (to reduce cost) into a new soil, and now everyone is rushing to imitate it! But it is not universal. Using foreign things for Chinese purposes is good, but it must be used appropriately and flexibly. It is great for those deep-rooted succulents! For example, it is most suitable for Haworthia cooperi, Haworthia truncata, Haworthia maughanii, and Haworthia cooperi var. truncata, etc., among the Haworthia. I think if a small amount of imported grass peat soil were added to this soil, it would be even more perfect, because the original soil leaks out as soon as it is watered! You would have to water it once a day; is that not troublesome enough? With the latter method, twice a week is enough. Other fibrous-rooted succulents must not imitate this. In fact, each place has its own unique features. Soil that can grow succulents well is good soil. On land, all rivers eventually converge and flow into the
sea!
7. When is the best time to change the soil for a cactus?
If the acidity or alkalinity of the potting soil does not meet the needs of the cactus, it can be adjusted. If a cactus has been grown for a long time and other impurities remain excessively in the potting soil, causing the body to shrink, the soil must be changed! Therefore, the best times to change the soil are March and September. And the old soil removed cannot be used again!
8. What varieties are suitable for beginner succulent growers?
People who are new to growing succulents generally like Crassulaceae, but among Crassulaceae, Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop', Pachyphytum 'Moon Fairy', Echeveria 'Chihuahua', Echeveria shaviana, Sempervivum tectorum, Aeonium leucoblepharum, Kalanchoe tomentosa, and Aeonium decorum grow in spring and autumn and are dazzlingly gorgeous in winter! But in the scorching summer they either die or wilt! The reason is that beginners give them not a drop of water in summer and also place them in unventilated spots, so they either dry to death or suffocate to death! To grow Crassulaceae well, water appropriately in summer or spray a little water in the evening, place them in a ventilated spot, and avoid direct sunlight, and they can safely pass the summer!
I suggest beginners first try growing the hard-leaved types in Liliaceae: 1. Haworthia genus, [rosette-shaped], for example: Haworthia fasciata, Haworthia attenuata 'Matsunoyuki', Haworthia reinwardtii, etc. 2. Gasteria genus, [yuanbao-shaped], for example: Gasteria 'Himeyuanbao', Gasteria 'Zibao', Gasteria verrucosa, Gasteria 'Moko', etc. Special point: the leaves are hard, and they can endure both wet and dry conditions! They basically do not go dormant in summer.
9. Why is it so difficult for Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop' to get through summer?
This summer, my Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop' almost suffered total defeat, which was within my expectations. Although I took preventive measures, opening the front and back doors of the greenhouse wide, rolling the long plastic film on both sides up and down, and covering the greenhouse roof with extra-dense black plastic shade netting, greenhouse cultivation is different from home cultivation. Mine is in full sun, and the highest noon temperature reached around 50 degrees! In addition, Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop' is a succulent that fears dryness and high temperatures. In summer all its leaves fall off, leaving only bare stems! Most of the bare stems turned gray and rotted, and the remaining hard stems did not slowly grow leaves again until late autumn, which is now. At present it is in a period of intensified cuttings. But why could it get through midsummer using the old method five years ago and not now? This connects to another issue: succulent aging, which I will explain in a special topic later.
In addition, Bear's Paw is also a sun-loving succulent.
Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop'
Bear's Paw
10. Why should succulents be given light fertilizer frequently?
For plants, especially succulents, why should "light fertilizer applied frequently" be used? This brings us to the growth cycle of succulents: 1. The greater the daily temperature difference, the faster they grow. 2. Watering after the potting soil has dried out is also a growth boost (just like a person who is thirsty and eager to drink water). If at this time you add some organic fertilizer solution to the watering can, stir it, and apply it to the dried-out planting pot, the succulent will be excited! It will surely thank its owner and repay them with its beautiful body. Spring and autumn are generally the succulent growing season and fertilizer can be applied, but those dormant in summer must not be fertilized! Conversely, summer-growing ones such as Euphorbiaceae should be fertilized more! Winter-growing succulents such as Saussurea involucrata should not be fertilized! Absolutely do not fertilize those in a wilted state! Pull them out, trim the roots, and change the potting soil.
11. What fertilizing methods are there?
First method: fertilizing after the soil dries. Apply the fertilizer water first, and after the fertilizer water has fully seeped into the soil, water with an appropriate amount of clear water, which is best. Another method: mix the fertilizer water with clear water and water together, which also works. For Lithops, fertilize before flowering, that is, in mid-October, and for Conophytum, at the end of September is best.
12. What is the most critical thing in growing succulents well?
It is mainly about learning to water. Water once the potting soil is dry. It is best not to water thoroughly all at once [the safe practice], and place it in a sunny spot near a window. The genus Frithia in Aizoaceae is a water-fearing, sun-loving succulent. Generally do not water it much; spraying the body once every two or three days is enough.
13. How do you water succulents when transplanting?
The roots of a newly transplanted plant are inevitably damaged. If you water thoroughly, the possibility of infection is very high! If it has already rotted, take it out quickly, remove the unhealthy roots, let it sit for a week, and then plant it again, spraying a little water on the surface. Generally, it is best to plant in slightly moist soil. In addition, regarding the ratio of the mixed soil: peat soil 3, kanuma soil 1, orchid stone 1, vermiculite 0.5, perlite 0.5, plant ash 0.2 is good. It can be used for planting any succulent.
14. Where do the names of succulents come from?
The naming of succulents, aside from personal names and place names, is mostly based on form and color, such as: Thousand Buddha Hands (resembling many fingers). Various String of Pearls (after forming, resembling bead curtains hanging from doors and windows). Yatsuyo (a Japanese person or place name). Special-leaf Lotus (the leaf tip is concave). Fire Ritual (leaves turn fire-red in winter). Special White Lotus (meaning extra large; when formed it reaches 25 cm). Jelly Bean Plant (in winter, "rainbow" indicates rainbow and red, "jade" indicates a small jade). Chiyoda-no-Matsu (Chiyoda is a Japanese place name, and "matsu" indicates the appearance of the trunk of an old Japanese Osaka pine). Baihui (a personal name; leaves are round and curled). Empress's Hat (a hat is called a straw hat in Japan; after forming it can reach 30 cm, and the curled top with large colorful red leaves resembles a crown that only an empress could wear).
15. How do you handle succulents after dormancy?
For succulents that have gone through dormancy, there are two methods:
1. For those that have not yet awakened, water quickly! Place them in a spot with better sunlight so they recover their vitality quickly.
2. For those that have already awakened, repot them, trim the roots, let them dry for a week, then plant them in a pot with new soil. After a period of time, this succulent will be absolutely beautiful!
16. Do succulents need frequent root pruning?
Succulents are different from orchids. Succulents are best root-pruned once a year and given new soil once a year. Because old roots have poor absorption capacity and rot easily, and the nutrients needed in the old soil have already been taken up, while excess unnecessary impurities will affect growth. After dormancy, most succulents have roots that have aged or shrunk, so it is a good time for root pruning and repotting. The longer old soil remains in the pot, the worse it gets; freshly mixed nutrient soil becomes better the longer it sits.
17. What are the three major conditions for growing succulents well?
To raise succulents perfectly, three conditions are needed:
1. Natural environment: a place with sufficient sunlight in all four seasons.
2. Fertile, permeable, neutral calcareous soil.
3. Human management must be thorough: temperature and humidity must be controlled, soil preparation must be suitable, the soil must be sterilized and pests killed, roots must be trimmed and soil changed from time to time, and light fertilizer must be applied frequently.
The "always shriveled, neither dying nor growing" that you mentioned is due to unhealthy roots or potted soil carrying bacteria and lacking fertilizer. The solution: take the plant out, trim away old and rotten roots, let it dry in a cool place for ten days, then plant it in a new pot of soil. Because rooting is slow in late autumn, it will certainly grow robustly next year! 18. How do succulents get through summer, and how should they be watered?
For plants dormant in summer, spray a little water in the evening; for semi-dormant ones, water a little less; for non-dormant ones, water thoroughly.
In this way, whether under harsh sun or high temperatures during the day, they can endure it! Because at night they all get the water they each need.
For a fully dormant example: a snake goes into a hole to hibernate in winter, consuming the nutrients and water stored in its body, and water is often insufficient, while the humidity in the hole helps it.
1. Clarify a concept
1. Summer: Summer refers to when the daily average temperature remains above 22°C for 5 consecutive days. This is the hottest season of the year.
2. Dormancy: The phenomenon in which life activities temporarily stall due to unfavorable environment, and can immediately resume growth when environmental conditions improve.
2. Pay attention to the problem of getting through summer
In cultivating succulents, people generally find it difficult to safely get certain species with summer dormancy habits through the summer. Some might think: summer dormancy and winter dormancy are the same, just do not fertilize and reduce watering. In fact, management during summer dormancy is much more complicated.
First, because species differ and climates vary among cultivation areas, it is very difficult to uniformly determine when species of a given genus enter dormancy; one can only rely on careful observation during cultivation and accumulated experience. This is different from managing winter-dormant species. During winter dormancy, management can generally be uniform. Even if the plant has not entered dormancy and water is cut off early to force it into dormancy, there is not much harm; if it has already gone dormant and is watered once, then as long as attention is paid to keeping it warm there will not be much of a problem.
After the summer solstice, the third geng day counts as the first fu. For most succulents, the period from "Summer Solstice" to "End of Heat" among the twenty-four solar terms is the hardest stretch of the year. "Summer Solstice" is usually regarded as the day summer truly begins, and many succulents begin to enter their annual dormancy period. If water is cut off early before they enter dormancy, because the temperature is high at that time and evaporation is great, they may wither. For some species that complete the alternation of old and new leaves during dormancy, if water is cut off early, it will affect new bud differentiation and force the old leaves to wither ahead of time, affecting the alternation of old and new leaves and causing the whole plant to die. If the plant has already entered dormancy and is then watered and fertilized, it will cause rot. Therefore, only by correctly grasping the dormancy period can one do a good job managing the summer dormancy period.
3. Treat different types differently
To get your succulents safely through summer, you must first determine whether they belong to the winter-growing type, summer-growing type, or spring-autumn-growing type, and then arrange different care methods according to their habits. (1) Common summer-growing type (meaning varieties that do not go dormant in summer and grow vigorously) succulents. 1. Cactaceae: most plants in Cactaceae belong to the summer-growing type. 2. Euphorbiaceae: most plants in Euphorbiaceae belong to the summer-growing type (I have Euphorbia 'Himekirin', Euphorbia aeruginosa, and Euphorbia crispata). 3. Kalanchoe genus: common ones include Kalanchoe luciae, Kalanchoe 'Fansque', Kalanchoe porphyrocalyx, Kalanchoe 'Jindie', Kalanchoe tomentosa 'Black', Kalanchoe tomentosa 'White', Kalanchoe 'Edo Murasaki', Kalanchoe tomentosa, Kalanchoe 'Fairy Dance', etc. 4. Crassula genus: common ones include Crassula 'Huazan', Crassula 'Ruo Lu', Crassula falcata, Crassula ovata, Crassula 'Fire Ritual', Crassula 'Qingsuolong', Crassula 'Luori Zhiyan', etc. 5. Orostachys genus: common ones include Orostachys malacophylla, Orostachys 'Phoenix', Orostachys 'Fuji', Orostachys 'Zichilianhua', Orostachys 'Yannianhua', Orostachys 'Wolf Claw', etc. 6. Agave genus: common ones include Agave americana, Agave 'Leishen', Agave 'Princess Leishen', Agave 'Chuishang', Agave 'Princess Snow', etc. 7. Stapelia genus: common ones include Stapelia 'Purple Dragon Horn', Stapelia 'Sword Dragon Horn', Stapelia 'Dragon Horn', Stapelia 'Ashuluo', Stapelia 'Red-striped Ox Horn', etc. 8. Ceropegia genus: common ones include Rosary Vine, Ceropegia 'Green Rain', etc. 9. Beaucarnea genus: Beaucarnea recurvata. 10. Sansevieria genus: Sansevieria trifasciata. 11. Aloe genus: Aloe arborescens, Aloe 'Buyecheng', etc. 12. Sempervivum genus: Sempervivum 'Baihui', Sempervivum 'Juanjuan', etc. 13. Echeveria genus: Saussurea involucrata, Echeveria 'Black Prince', Echeveria 'Chihuahua', Echeveria 'Huangli', Echeveria shaviana, Echeveria 'Hongsi', Echeveria 'Yamato', Echeveria 'White Peony' (spring-summer-autumn-growing type), etc. 14. Adenium genus: Adenium obesum, Adenium somalense. 15. Pachypodium genus: Pachypodium 'African Tyrant Tree', Pachypodium 'Guangtang', Pachypodium 'Mihuapinggan', Pachypodium 'Huimeixu Xiao', Pachypodium 'Tianmakong', etc. 16. Plumeria genus: Plumeria 'Yellow Flower'. 17. Alluaudia genus: Alluaudia, Alluaudia 'Yasendansi', Alluaudia 'Cangyanlong'. 18. Pedilanthus genus: Pedilanthus 'Dragon Phoenix Wood', Pedilanthus 'Big Silver Dragon', Pedilanthus 'Hua Silver Dragon', etc. 19. Cissus genus: Cissus 'Emerald Pavilion'. 20. Anacampseros genus: Anacampseros 'Chuixue Zhi Song', Anacampseros 'Chunmeng Dianjin', Anacampseros 'Huachuixue', etc. 21. Portulacaria genus: Portulacaria afra 'Golden Branch Jade Leaf', Portulacaria afra 'Yale Zhi Wu', Portulacaria afra 'Purple Rice Grain', etc. 22. Portulaca genus: Portulaca 'Mao Ma Xian', Portulaca 'Wildfire', Portulaca 'White Mage', etc. 23. Caralluma genus: Caralluma 'Rhinoceros Horn', Caralluma 'Ox Horn', Caralluma 'Big Flower Rhinoceros Horn', Caralluma 'Demon Star Horn', etc. 24. Delosperma genus: Delosperma 'Leitong', Delosperma 'Lihuang', Delosperma 'Zhuangluan Yu'. 25. Frithia genus: Frithia 'Qunyu', Frithia 'Fifty Bells Jade'. 26. Trichodiadema genus: Trichodiadema 'Jing Wuji', Trichodiadema 'Round-leaf Fugencao'. 27. Dorstenia genus: Dorstenia 'Giant', Dorstenia 'Needle-leaf'. 28. Commelina genus: Commelina 'Dew Grass', etc. 29. Glottiphyllum genus: Glottiphyllum 'Himebeni Komatsu', and White Phoenix Chrysanthemum (Aizoaceae, genus Bergeranthus), blue pine, peach beauty, star beauty, and red-leaved lotus are all plants with no obvious dormancy period. White Peony is a Crassulaceae hybrid and belongs to the summer-growing type, dormant in winter.
(2) Management of "summer-growing type" succulents
Light: "Summer-growing type" succulents should be given sufficient sunlight. If light is insufficient, not only will the plant become leggy, it will also affect flowering. For some species in Cactaceae and Euphorbiaceae whose plants are columnar or spherical, it will cause the fleshy stems to suddenly become thin, seriously affecting appearance, and once this happens it is very difficult to restore the original state; for foliage-type succulents, it will cause a loose plant shape and dull leaf color. Especially for certain varieties whose leaf color is red or whose leaf surface has patterns or white powder, the fleshy leaves will also turn green and the patterns or white powder on the leaf surface will decrease or even disappear. Therefore, it is best to place the plants outdoors in a place with sufficient light and good ventilation; but for some delicate varieties, from June to August they should still avoid strong direct sunlight around noon to prevent strong light from scorching the epidermis. Plants that have been placed indoors for a long time or cultivated in other places with insufficient light should not suddenly be taken into strong light. They should first be cared for in partial shade for a period, then moved to a place with stronger light, allowing them to gradually adapt to the environment. Temperature: Although "summer-growing type" succulents like high-temperature environments, when summer temperatures remain above 38°C, attention should also be paid to ventilation and cooling. For greenhouse ground-planted plants, the plastic film around the greenhouse can be opened to facilitate ventilation and cooling, while plastic film should still be kept on top to prevent rain, and a shade net should be placed on the plastic film to help lower the temperature. If conditions permit, an exhaust fan or electric fan can also be installed in the greenhouse to strengthen ventilation and avoid plant rot caused by muggy, humid conditions. For some precious varieties, white or light-colored stones can also be laid on the surface of the potting soil to reflect sunlight and prevent the potting soil from absorbing too much heat. Cacti under direct sunlight can promote body growth and produce more flower buds; but harsh summer sun exposure is unfavorable for cacti. At this time, the plants can be moved under a corridor or onto a windowsill to prevent the body from being scorched by the harsh sun.
Watering: For "summer-growing types" that are growing, water fully, but do not let water accumulate. During the rainy season, pay attention to drainage and flood prevention to avoid root rot caused by soil waterlogging. It should be pointed out that although succulents in the growing period are drought-tolerant, they do not like drought. If water is lacking for a long time during the growing season, although the plant will not die, growth will be extremely slow or even stop, and its appearance will also be poor. Therefore, sufficient water must be given during the growing season. Watering in the early morning is best, and evening is also acceptable, but avoid watering at noon during high temperatures. A specially mentioned watering method for cacti: summer is precisely the peak growing season for cacti, their water demand increases day by day, and they need frequent watering. Watering should be done in the morning and evening, because temperatures are lower then, and artificially increasing humidity brings it close to the humidity of their place of origin. At hot noon, absolutely do not water with very cold water. At this time, because the body has been exposed to strong light for a long time, the surface temperature of the body rises; if very cold water is poured on it, it can easily cause scorching of the body. If the potting soil is too dry at noon, also spray water on the pot surface with water whose temperature is similar to the surrounding air, and it is enough for the pot surface to be slightly moist; if too much water is sprayed, the hot mud in the pot will also scald the roots of the plant. When spraying, do not spray water on the top of the body or the grafted area, to avoid water accumulation and rot in the top-depressed body and grafted area.
Fertilizing: During the growing season, "summer-growing type" succulents can be given a fully decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer or a "low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus, high-potassium" compound fertilizer once every 10 to 15 days, depending on the variety. Newly planted plants should not be fertilized within one month, and plants with weak growth should also not be fertilized. For most succulents, fertilizer can be applied once every half month; for slow-growing varieties, once a month is also fine; for some extremely slow-growing varieties, fertilization may even be unnecessary. Do not water for a few days before fertilizing. After the potting soil is basically dry, first loosen the soil the day before, then fertilize the next day, to facilitate absorption by the plant roots. Because, except for a few varieties such as leaf cacti, most succulents have very low osmotic pressure in their roots, the concentration of the fertilizer solution must not be too high. The type of fertilizer should vary according to the plant variety and growth stage. Generally, during the seedling stage and for leafy, fleshy green plants, the amount of nitrogen fertilizer can be slightly greater, while plants in the flower bud differentiation stage, flowering and fruiting stage, and varieties with spherical or columnar plants and red, yellow, or other non-green leaf colors should be given more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and stem-like succulents should be given more potassium fertilizer. Organic fertilizers used can include water-fermented soybean cake, sesame cake, and chicken, pigeon manure, bone meal, etc. No matter what kind of fertilizer, it must be fully decomposed and diluted with water before use. Inorganic fertilizers such as urea, monopotassium phosphate, superphosphate, and various compound fertilizers and special fertilizers sold on the market can also be used when the plant is growing vigorously, but the concentration should be low and the frequency should be small; otherwise it will cause soil compaction and affect plant growth, making the loss outweigh the gain. However, undecomposed eggshells, soybean milk, fresh milk, etc., as well as salty meat soup and bones, must not be used. When fertilizing, be careful not to splash the fertilizer solution onto the plant. A specially mentioned fertilizing method for cacti: Many people think that cacti grow in the barren deserts and semi-desert regions of their place of origin and do not need fertilizer. In fact, home-cultivated cacti, like other flowers, need fertilizer. In their vigorous summer growing season, they precisely need a large amount of nutrients as supplement, so a dilute fertilizer solution containing relatively high nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied 1-2 times per week. Do not apply chemical fertilizer, to avoid burning the body due to poor control of ingredients.
A specially mentioned method for preventing pests and diseases in cacti: Home-cultivated cacti generally are placed in spaces that are not spacious, with hot, humid air and poor ventilation, making them susceptible to red spider mites, scale insects, and whiteflies, causing the plants to completely lose their ornamental value. If red spider mite damage is found, spray with 25% omethoate diluted 1000 times. If there is scale insect or whitefly damage, manual capture and killing can be used. When the damaged area cannot turn green again, if the damaged area is relatively low, cut off the top of the body and regraft it; if the top is damaged, then truncate the top to encourage the base to sprout offsets, so as to preserve the species for propagation.
(3) Common "winter-growing type" and "spring-autumn-growing type" (that is, dormant in summer and growing in winter, spring, and autumn) succulents
1. Haworthia genus: common ones include Haworthia fasciata, Haworthia 'Baocao', Haworthia cooperi, Haworthia cooperi, Haworthia 'Jincheng', Haworthia 'Longlin', Haworthia truncata, Haworthia maughanii, etc.
2. Bowiea genus: common ones include Bowiea volubilis (mine is the small Bowiea volubilis), etc.
3. Gasteria genus: common ones include Gasteria 'Tiger Scroll', Gasteria 'Zibao', Gasteria 'Woniu', Gasteria 'Zhaoji', Gasteria 'Dinosaur', Gasteria 'Liuli Hall', etc. 4. Crassula genus: common ones include Crassula 'Money String', Crassula 'Ba', Crassula 'Yuchun', Crassula 'Qianzhi Tower' (Green Tower), Crassula 'Duxing', Crassula 'Lüqianhui', Crassula 'Xing Yi Nü', Crassula 'Dragon Palace City', Crassula 'Li Que', etc. 5. Sedum genus (spring-autumn-growing type): common ones include Sedum 'Mingyue', Sempervivum tectorum, Sedum 'Yuzhulian', Sedum 'Otome Kokoro', Sedum 'Yachiyo', Sedum rubrotinctum, Sedum 'Round-leaf Ten Thousand Year Grass', etc. 6. Aeonium genus (spring-autumn-growing type): Aeonium 'Brilliant', Aeonium 'Variegated Cold Moon Night', Aeonium 'Airan Brocade', Aeonium leucoblepharum, Aeonium decorum, Aeonium 'Xiying', Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop', Aeonium 'Jinhuangxing', etc. 7. Lithops genus: common ones include Lithops, Lithops 'Huawen Yu', Lithops 'Rilun Yu', Lithops 'Zhuxian Yu', Lithops 'Mrs. Li', etc. 8. Conophytum genus: Conophytum 'Shojiang', Conophytum 'Jiguang', Conophytum 'Guangyuan Shi', Conophytum 'Angel'. 9. Pleiospilos genus (spring-autumn-growing type): common ones include Pleiospilos 'Di Yu', Pleiospilos 'Qingluan', Pleiospilos 'Feng Luan', etc. 10. Glottiphyllum genus (spring-autumn-growing type): common ones include Glottiphyllum 'Anlü', Glottiphyllum 'Sao Otome', Glottiphyllum 'Zhe He', etc. 11. Adromischus genus (spring-autumn-growing type): Adromischus 'Tianjin Zhang', Adromischus 'Shenxiang Qu', Adromischus 'Gosho Brocade', etc. 12. Cotyledon genus (spring-autumn-growing type): Kalanchoe tomentosa, Cotyledon 'Xubo Zhi Guang', Cotyledon 'Funiang', Cotyledon 'Yinbo Brocade', etc. 13. Cotyledon genus: Cotyledon 'Afang Palace', Cotyledon 'Qifeng Brocade', Cotyledon 'Sand Coral'. 14. Graptopetalum genus (spring-autumn-growing type): Graptopetalum 'Beautiful Lotus', Graptopetalum paraguayense, Graptopetalum 'Bieluzhu'. 15. Anacampseros genus: Anacampseros 'Silver Silkworm', Anacampseros 'Snow Chang'e', Anacampseros 'Ren Brocade', Anacampseros 'Qun Silkworm'. 16. Faucaria genus: Faucaria 'Qunbo', Faucaria 'Sihai Bo', Faucaria 'Huang Bo', Faucaria 'Nu Bo', Faucaria 'Snow Bo', Faucaria 'Big Snow Stream Bo'. 17. Bergeranthus genus: Bergeranthus 'Zhaobo'. 18. Rhinephyllum genus: Rhinephyllum 'Tang Fan', etc. 19. Frithia genus: Frithia 'Guangyu'. 20. Titanopsis genus: Titanopsis 'Tiannü', Titanopsis 'Tiannü Crown', Titanopsis 'Tiannü Hairpin'. 21. Dinteranthus genus: Dinteranthus 'Lingyao Yu', Dinteranthus 'Nanman Yu'. 22. Nananthus genus (spring-autumn-growing type): Nananthus 'Xiaosong Bo', Nananthus 'Xibao', Nananthus 'Purple Shining Star', etc. 23. Glottiphyllum genus (spring-autumn-growing type): Glottiphyllum 'Baolü', etc. 24. Hereroa genus (spring-autumn-winter-growing type): Hereroa 'Kuaidao Luanma'. 25. Portulacaria genus: Portulacaria afra 'Money Tree' (suitable for 20-32°C), should be a short summer dormancy type. 26. Asteraceae, Senecio genus (spring-autumn-winter-growing type): Senecio 'Qibao Tree'. Those not marked (spring-autumn-growing type) are all winter-growing. White Stone Flower, Purple Barbarian Knife, and String of Pearls are spring-autumn-growing. In addition: blue pine, peach beauty, and star beauty are all plants with no obvious dormancy period.
(4) Summer management of common winter-growing and spring-autumn-growing succulents. Light: Winter-growing succulents basically stop growing in summer and should avoid direct sunlight, but they should not be placed in places without light either, otherwise they may become leggy and affect appearance. It is recommended to place them on a windowsill facing southwest, or in a bright place without direct sunlight, and pay attention to ventilation. Temperature: Although the places of origin of succulents are in hot regions, if the temperature remains above 35 degrees, attention should also be paid to ventilation and cooling. If grown at home, they should be placed indoors and the air should be kept circulating. When at home, the windows can be opened, and when no one is home it is best to leave a gap in the windows. In addition, laying a layer of volcanic rock on the surface of the potting soil can also help lower the temperature.
Watering: Succulents most fear water accumulation. Especially in summer, growers may feel that the water in the soil dries quickly, so they water frequently, causing the roots to remain wet for a long time and rot, with little chance of recovery. In fact, summer air humidity is high. Although the soil surface may appear dry, the bottom is still not dry through, especially in southern regions. For winter-growing succulents, watering should be strictly controlled in summer, and above 35 degrees continuously, cutting off water can be considered. Even if watering, only use a pressure spray bottle to moisten the soil surface, avoid sprinkling water droplets on the leaves, and if obvious water droplets remain on the leaves, they should be blown away to prevent the droplets from concentrating strong light and scorching the leaves. For extremely fleshy-leaved varieties in Aizoaceae such as Lithops, Conophytum, Dinteranthus, and Pleiospilos, a little water can still be given in early to mid-May, but after June watering must be strictly controlled, and water can even be cut off completely, to avoid plant rot.
4. Summary of getting through summer
In short, if you want your succulents to safely get through summer, after figuring out whether your succulents belong to the "winter-growing type," "spring-autumn-growing type," or "summer-growing type," treat them differently. "Winter-growing type" and "spring-autumn-growing type" succulents begin to go dormant after entering summer, and these plants are the ones that need key care; although "summer-growing type" succulents continue to grow as usual, attention must also be paid to avoiding direct sunlight at noon, ensuring ventilation and cooling during high-temperature weather, and preventing water accumulation when watering, which can lead to root rot. In short, for the succulents to healthily endure the summer, besides careful observation and attentive care, there is still a lot of homework to do.
For succulents whose type you cannot determine as winter-growing or summer-growing, as long as you follow the three key points of avoiding harsh sun, controlling watering, and maintaining ventilation, you can also achieve foolproof results.
Summer-growing plants are dormant in winter, winter-growing plants are dormant in summer, and spring-autumn-growing plants grow noticeably in spring and autumn and go dormant to varying degrees in severe winter and midsummer. When watering dormant plants, do it in appropriate amounts, and do not pour into the growing point. For plants with fuzz, white powder, or highly fleshy leaves, do not spray.
Special note: Because each person's soil, cultivation location, temperature, and humidity differ, the planting methods need to be adjusted and grasped by each person and must not be copied directly. The above material was compiled by Mr. Ai Ruhe after spending a great deal of time, and is for reference only. Corrections are welcome. Wishing all flower lovers lush flowers and leaves and a garden full of fragrance.
How do you judge when a succulent has entered dormancy?
Plants usually show the following: no growth during the season, little change in appearance, slow response to water and fertilizer, shrinking, and susceptibility to rot, etc. Once the climate environment changes (mainly temperature changes), they continue growing. At this time, if it is not due to factors such as disease, then they have entered a dormant state. Dormancy is mainly judged based on cultivation experience. Personal growing factors often differ, and dormancy conditions also differ. A plant that is dormant in the north often grows in the south, and with ventilation and cooling or heating and humidifying, the plant may also not go dormant. During the dormancy period, one must rely on continuous exploration in cultivation to improve growing experience. For example, Lithops enters summer dormancy in the Jianghuai region in June, while some species such as Lithops 'Quyu' and Lithops 'Xiaowen Yu' do not go dormant in summer. This is experience gained through cultivation. However, it is often only when plants are lost that one discovers this, which is also one of the reasons everyone needs to communicate more.
Second, plants that are dormant in their place of origin will usually also go dormant, and dormancy can be judged by collecting information. Generally speaking, when the temperature exceeds or falls below the plant's growth and tolerance limits, dormancy is needed. This is also one of the reasons why it is necessary to understand some plant and classification common knowledge about succulents. For example, the place of origin and environment can tell us the differences in cultivation environments. When the environment and climate change, pay attention to their changes so as to judge the dormancy period; classification knowledge allows us, while understanding that one variety has dormancy habits, to judge whether plants of this genus or even this family also have dormancy habits. Then, in the cultivation process, when encountering such situations one must also proceed cautiously. After going through a one-year growth cycle, it becomes easier to judge and avoid unnecessary losses! For example, succulents native to southeastern South Africa and Madagascar mostly go dormant. The place of origin of Pachypodium 'Guangtang' is this region, so it goes dormant. Does the Pachypodium of the same genus also go dormant? You need to pay attention. Through cultivation we know that in fact Pachypodium 'Tyrant Tree' is a semi-dormant plant. And with ventilation and shading, as long as the temperature is not too high, it can still grow. Therefore, botanical and classification knowledge are very important when growing succulents! Some plants, during the dormancy period, show almost no visible change on the surface; it simply cannot be seen from the characteristics of the plant, and one may even see phenomena such as the growing point turning green, so one must be even more careful, and absolutely must not take things for granted and be blindly optimistic! It is even more necessary to first understand their growth habits!
In short, through continuous accumulation of cultivation experience and mutual learning, knowledge in this area can be increased. It is precisely because, aside from the beauty and distinctive appearance of succulents themselves, the differences and certain difficulty in cultivating and growing succulents that they attract people so much, drawing attention to these exotic plants through curiosity and challenge! When you gain knowledge and experience from cultivation and watch them grow robustly and healthily, that is also the greatest satisfaction and joy!
19. Overwintering methods for home-grown succulents and cacti:
1. Basic conditions for overwintering: the more sunlight the better; the temperature should be above 1 degree at the lowest, and above 15 degrees during the day is best. The humidity of the potting soil follows the watering principle: water when the soil is dry, but it is best not to water thoroughly. Another method: on clear, sunny mornings, spray clear water on the plant body. Shanghai's winter is damp and cold, but that does not matter; just make sure the humidity in the small artificial environment of the setup is not too high!
2. Introduce several overwintering methods:
(1) General indoor method: Place them along the windowsill inside the window, or place a wider board or glass sheet inside an enclosed balcony, or use a stepped arrangement, low in front and gradually higher toward the back, so that it is clear at a glance and neat and beautiful. This style is best placed on the east side of the balcony, where the light duration is longer than on the west side. To increase the temperature and spatial humidity inside the pot and protect against cold wind when windows are opened, disposable thin plastic cups can be used as covers over the pots; for large pots, a large cola bottle can be cut in half in the middle and only the top half used as a cover.
(2) Glass tank setup cultivation method: 1. Use a glass fish tank for growing: according to your own available growing space, prepare several tanks of different sizes. Place 2 cm of coarse yellow sand at the bottom of the tank, spread several slender glass strips on top, and place the pots on top so they do not stick to the sand. Cover the tank with glass; if a very sunny day occurs, a chopstick can be laid across horizontally to prevent high temperature from damaging the plant body.
2. Make a larger special glass house by yourself: customize the size of the house according to the size of the place where you can put it. For example: length 1 m, width 0.5 m, height 0.4 m. At the front 0.25 of the 0.5 m wide upper side, it is best to have a 25-degree slope (to receive more sunlight). On the front of the house, make three movable sliding doors, in order to conveniently put in and take out pots and to leave a moving gap to release hot air. It is best to glue a middle partition glass panel vertically in the middle of the 1 m long tank, and above it glue two 8 cm horizontal glass panels on the left and right sides (so flower pots can be placed on top to fully use the space inside the house). Similarly: above the other two long sides, one 8 cm wide long horizontal glass panel can also be glued on each side (four panels in total). On the bottom plane of the glass house, lay a thick, soft, hair-like plastic film with strong water absorption (the filter film for a tropical fish tank), then spread a layer of window screen mesh on top (to prevent pots from sticking to the bottom), and it is done. Effects: increases temperature and humidity, allows more pots in the same space, and is elegant and beautiful.
(3) Foam box setup cultivation method: Use one square foam box, or two or three fastened together, placed flat together. Place four square wooden strips upright at the four corners, then fasten four long square wooden strips to the four corner square wooden strips (it is best to make the side facing the sunlight lower, because that receives more light). Then cover the surroundings with plastic film, leaving at the pot-access point a movable plastic door that can be pulled down and closed. On the bottom surface of the square or long foam box, put in mixed soil and press it firm, then also lay window screen on top (to prevent soil from sticking to the pot bottoms). This is the simplest method for entering winter. (4) Outdoor cultivation method: Make a square (or long) flower rack outside the window that can hold a foam box, then make a glass tank movable on one side that can fit exactly into the square (or long) foam box. At night, put a tall, deep foam box of the same size as the one below over the outside of the glass tank, and require it to fit exactly with the lower foam box surface so that outside cold air cannot enter. In this way it can safely pass through outside temperatures of minus two or three degrees. Note: In method (4) above, pay attention: the bottom of the sliding door of the inner glass tank should be slightly 1 cm higher than the lower foam box surface, because the bottom of the sliding door needs to hold thicker mixed soil, the purpose being to store heat during the day and get through the cold at night. Add heating when it is especially cold. In setups (2) and (3), a heater can be installed to warm them so that succulents can also grow normally in winter. Succulent plant viewing
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[Succulents] The complete guide to succulent growing, the 100,000 Whys of succulents -- Youjia Flower Shop
1. How do you grow string of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus)?
A perennial evergreen creeping succulent herbaceous plant, in the plant kingdom, Asteraceae, genus Senecio, native to the arid subtropical regions of southwestern Africa. Flowering period: December to January of the following year. After three to four years it can grow to more than one meter long, and in October it produces small white or brown flowers, with red thin-lined buds. Watering should favor dryness over moisture; when the weather is dry you can mist it. It prefers partial shade. The ratio of soil to sand is about 1:3. It likes warmth and humidity, is relatively cold-tolerant and heat-tolerant, with an optimum temperature of about 20°C-28°C. Growth is slow at both high and low temperatures; especially in high temperatures above 30°C it is almost dormant, so water and fertilize less, otherwise the roots rot easily. In the vigorous growing seasons of spring and autumn, apply "light fertilizer frequently", and spraying 1-3‰ nitrogen fertilizer and monopotassium phosphate on the leaves often helps make the beads more emerald green and plump, raising their ornamental value.
2. How do you grow string of hearts? Apocynaceae, genus Ceropegia, distributed in South Africa and Zimbabwe. The plant is trailing and can creep along the ground or hang down, reaching about 90-120 cm at most. It likes warmth. With sufficient light it grows luxuriantly, and it grows even better under diffused light. In summer avoid direct strong sunlight from 11 am to 4 pm. It likes slightly moist soil and is also relatively drought-tolerant, so the potting soil is best kept half dry and half moist, alternating between dry and moist. In winter water once every 10-15 days, keeping the potting soil slightly moist. The suitable temperature is 15-28°C; spring and autumn are the vigorous growing seasons of string of hearts. If the summer temperature exceeds 32°C, growth stalls, and it needs appropriate shading and ventilation to lower the temperature. Below 8°C in winter it begins to drop leaves and wither. String of hearts does not need much fertilizer; apply compound fertilizer three to four times a year (light fertilizer frequently). When repotting, add some base fertilizer depending on the pot size, and repot once every two years.
3. How do you grow Sedum rubrotinctum (jelly bean plant)? Crassulaceae, genus Sedum [Sedum rubrotinctum], with leaves like a baby's fingers, showing a beautiful green during the spring-to-summer growing period. In autumn and winter the leaves begin to turn red, and under full sun and dry conditions they can become even redder. If there is insufficient sunlight, the stems will elongate. It can send out roots from fallen leaves, and is easy to grow. Water only after the soil is completely dry, and avoid exposure to blazing sun in summer. When the winter temperature is low, also reduce watering. The flowers are yellow and star-shaped, opening in spring. Sedum rubrotinctum likes warmth and an environment with a marked day-night temperature difference. It adapts well to temperature and grows well between 10°C and 28°C. In autumn and winter, as the temperature drops and light intensifies, the fleshy leaves gradually turn red, so artificial cooling during cultivation can raise its ornamental value. In winter the room temperature should not be below 5°C. Sedum rubrotinctum likes light, and should be given full light throughout the growing period. But exposure to blazing sun in summer can cause sunscald on the leaves, so appropriate shading or half-day sun is fine, and at noon direct blazing sun should be avoided. Sedum rubrotinctum grows slowly and is drought-tolerant, so it should not be given heavy fertilizer or heavy water; water when the soil is dry and water thoroughly, while in winter when the room temperature is low, reduce the amount and frequency of watering. Generally apply organic liquid fertilizer once a month. In summer pay attention to keeping good ventilation. Sedum rubrotinctum grows relatively slowly, and generally after 3 years of cultivation the plant's shape begins to fall apart, so pruning should be done in advance. Propagation method: usually by cuttings, either stem cuttings or leaf cuttings. For stem cuttings you can use the branches cut off during pruning, cut them into 5 cm stem segments, best air-dried in a shady place for 3 to 5 days, and insert them into the seedbed after the cut end is slightly dry. For leaf propagation, remove a complete leaf from the stem (be careful not to damage the leaf), leave it for 3 days, then insert it. This method has a high propagation rate and is suitable for mass propagation, but the plants take shape slowly. Disease control: Sedum rubrotinctum has few diseases, but occasionally leaf spot and stem rot occur. Leaf spot is mainly caused by poor ventilation and relatively high air humidity. Systemic fungicides can be used for control. Improving ventilation is the key to preventing leaf spot. Stem rot is mostly caused by an overly damp environment in winter. Healthy upper stem segments of the plant should be cut for propagation, while avoiding excessive and too-frequent watering in winter, keeping the potting soil slightly dry.
4. How do you grow Sempervivum (hen and chicks)? Sempervivum has a habit: when it has grown old, its lower old leaves wither and dry up, and this is still normal. If they all turn yellow, then it is sick. If the roots have rotted, that indicates overwatering; if the roots are good, it means it has gone a very long time without water. The former will surely die; for the latter, water it a little and it will slowly revive. If the leaves of the first and second layers open wide apart, that is caused by poor light; place it near a window and it will grow neatly. Sempervivum once took Shanghai by storm. It is especially bewitchingly beautiful in winter! Conversely, in summer it enters the land of dormancy; if watered relatively heavily, it will either die or wilt, so even the middle and small leaves do not seem to grow.
5. What are the functions of the roots, stems and leaves of succulents? I will describe them simply and understandably, making a long story short: roots, stems, leaves. First, the function of roots -- to absorb organic nutrients from the soil: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other trace elements and water, and to anchor the plant body. Loose potting soil: retains water, prevents root rot, and favors root growth. Second, the function of stems -- to transport the nutrients made and absorbed above and below, and to support the plant body. Third, the function of leaves -- succulent leaves have four special functions: 1. Warehouse, storing water and nutrients. 2. Manufacturing chemical fertilizer through photosynthesis. 3. The leaf surface has a thin waxy skin that prevents water evaporation. 4. Respiration: the leaf surface is covered with many tiny closable stomata, divided into two groups. One group works during the day, releasing oxygen and taking in carbon dioxide, and closes at night. The other group works at night, releasing oxygen and taking in carbon dioxide, and closes during the day. This function is one that other plants (except a few) do not possess. Therefore, placing cacti and succulents indoors day and night both purifies the air. Another effect: those harmful gases are also taken in as a side dish.
6. How do you mix soil for succulents? Soil is one of the keys to growing succulents well. Because succulents like slightly acidic soil, while Shanghai's topsoil is slightly alkaline, and also poor in nutrients and compacted, it is not suitable for growing delicate succulents. From nearly ten years of exploration: peat soil and grass carbon soil are best. Peat soil is expensive and genuine material is scarce, so I no longer use it. Grass carbon soil was originally an acidic soil (medium acid), and needed to be neutralized with one half rice husk ash (rice husk ash is still slightly alkaline soil) into slightly acidic soil. This is the basic life soil for growing succulents! Then mix in a small amount of perlite (to loosen the soil), vermiculite (trace elements), bone meal (phosphorus and potassium fertilizer), etc., to blend into succulent soil. Among the small amounts mentioned above, use a bit more perlite. But! The texture of grass carbon soil has now changed, and I once suffered a big loss because of it! The succulents almost would not grow well. After several rounds of testing I finally found the reason: the original grass carbon soil was locally produced and fermented, but now it is gone; it is all artificially made by crushing grass, piling it up, and selling it after slight decomposition, changing from acidic to slightly acidic, close to slightly alkaline! So mixing in rice husk ash ruined it! Now it is fine not to add it. Growing succulents well is the top priority for growers. As for which family and which genus, I do not specially study that; there is no time! But I am still not careless with the ones I have on hand! Nowadays some beginner succulent growers talk fluently about which family and which genus. I think one should learn and ask more about such things. After basically mastering the growing skills, it is not too late to learn. There is now a new succulent soil mix popular in society, introduced from Japan. It uses kanuma soil, akadama soil, granular grass carbon soil (or granular sen soil), and clivia granular soil (to reduce cost) mixed into a new soil, and now everyone is eagerly learning it! But it is not all-purpose. Using foreign things for Chinese purposes is good, but it must be used appropriately and applied flexibly. It is beautiful for deep-rooted succulents! For example, it is most suitable for Haworthia cooperi, Haworthia truncata, Haworthia maughanii, and Haworthia cooperi var. truncata, etc. I think if a small amount of imported grass carbon soil were added to this soil, it would be even more perfect, because the original soil drains away completely as soon as you water it! You would have to water it once every day, annoying enough, right? With the latter method, twice a week is enough. Other fibrous-rooted succulents must not imitate this. In fact, every place has its own unique features; if it can grow succulents well, it is good soil. On land and in rivers, all waters eventually converge and flow into the sea!
7. When is the best time to change the soil for a cactus? If the potting soil's acidity or alkalinity does not suit the cactus's needs, it can be adjusted. If a cactus has been grown for a long time and excess other impurities remain in the potting soil, causing the ball to shrivel, the soil must be changed! So the best times to change soil are March and September. And the old soil removed cannot be used again! 8. Which varieties are suitable for beginner succulent growers? Beginners who grow succulents generally like Crassulaceae, but among Crassulaceae, Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop', Pachyphytum 'Moon Fairy', Echeveria 'Chihuahua', Kalanchoe tomentosa, Sempervivum, Aeonium 'Ming Jing', Kalanchoe tomentosa, and Aeonium decorum grow in spring and autumn, and are dazzlingly gorgeous in winter! But in the scorching summer they either die or wilt! The reason is that beginners give them not a drop of water in summer and place them in unventilated spots, so they either dry to death or suffocate to death! To grow Crassulaceae well, water appropriately in summer or mist a little in the evening, place them in a ventilated spot, and avoid direct sunlight, and they can safely pass the summer! I suggest beginners first try growing the hard-leaved types in Liliaceae: 1. Haworthia genus (rosette-shaped), e.g. Haworthia fasciata, Haworthia attenuata, Haworthia reinwardtii, etc. 2. Gasteria genus (yuanbao-shaped), e.g. Gasteria 'Hime Yuanbao', Gasteria 'Zi Bao', Gasteria, Gasteria 'Mo Mao', etc. Special features: hard leaves, able to endure both moisture and drought! Basically not dormant in summer.
9. Why is it so hard for Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop' to get through the summer? This summer, my Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop' almost suffered total defeat, which was within expectations. Although I took preventive measures -- opening the front and back doors of the greenhouse wide, rolling up and pulling down the long plastic film on both sides, and covering the greenhouse roof with super-dense black plastic netting -- greenhouse growing is different from home growing. Mine gets full sun, and the highest noon temperature reached about 50°C! In addition, Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop' is a succulent that fears dryness and high temperatures; in summer all its leaves drop off, leaving only bare stems! Most of the bare stems turned gray, wilted and rotted away; the hard stems that remained only slowly grew leaves in late autumn, that is, now, and are currently in a busy cutting period. But why could it get through the midsummer five years ago using the old method, while now it cannot? This connects to another issue: succulent aging, which will be explained in a special topic later. In addition, Cotyledon tomentosa is a sun-loving succulent too.
Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop'
Cotyledon tomentosa 10. Why should succulents be given light fertilizer frequently? For plants, especially succulents, why use "light fertilizer frequently"? This brings us to the growth cycle of succulents: 1. The greater the daily temperature difference, the faster they grow. 2. Watering after the potting soil has dried out thoroughly is also a growth boost (just like a person thirsty and eager to drink water). If at this time you add some organic fertilizer solution to the watering can, stir it, and apply it to the thoroughly dried planting pot, the succulent is thrilled! It will surely thank its owner and repay with its own beautiful body. Spring and autumn are generally the growing seasons for succulents, when fertilizer can be applied, but those dormant in summer must not be fertilized! Conversely, those that grow in summer, such as Euphorbiaceae, should be fertilized more! Winter-growing succulents such as Saussurea involucrata should not be fertilized! Absolutely never fertilize those in a wilted state! Pull them out, trim the roots and change the potting soil. 11. What are the fertilizing methods? Method one, fertilize after the soil is dry: first apply fertilizer water, and after the fertilizer water has fully seeped into the soil, water with an appropriate amount of clear water, which is best. Another method: mix fertilizer water with clear water and water together, which also works. Fertilize Lithops before flowering, that is, in mid-October, and fertilize Conophytum in late September, which is best.
12. What is the most critical thing in growing succulents well? Mainly it is learning to water: water once the potting soil is dry, and best not to water thoroughly all at once (a safe practice), and place them in a sunny spot by the window. The genus Frithia in Aizoaceae is a water-fearing, sun-loving succulent; generally do not water much, just mist the body once every two or three days. 13. How do you water succulents when transplanting? Newly transplanted roots are inevitably damaged. If you water thoroughly, the possibility of infection is very high! If they have already rotted, take them out at once, remove the unhealthy roots, leave them for a week and then plant, and just mist the surface with a little water. Generally it is best to plant in slightly moist soil. In addition, regarding the ratio of the mixed soil: peat soil 3, kanuma soil 1, orchid stone 1, vermiculite 0.5, perlite 0.5, plant ash 0.2 is good. It can be used for planting any succulent.
14. How did the names of succulents come about? Apart from personal names and place names, most succulents are named according to their form and color, such as: Thousand Buddha Hands (like many fingers). Various string-of-beads curtain types (after taking shape, like bead curtains hanging from doors and windows). Yachiyo (a Japanese person or place name). Teyelian (the leaf tip is concave). Fire Sacrifice (in winter the leaves are fire-red). Tebailian (meaning extra-large, reaching 25 cm when formed). Hongzhiyu (in winter, hong suggests rainbow and red, yu suggests small jade). Qiandaitianzhisong (Qiandaitian is a Japanese place name, and song suggests the appearance of the trunk of an old Japanese Osaka pine). Baihui (a personal name, with round rolled leaves). Empress's Hat (in Japanese refers to a straw hat; after taking shape it can reach 30 cm, and the curled top and rainbow-red large leaves form a crown that only an empress could wear). 15. How do you handle succulents after dormancy? For succulents that have gone through dormancy, there are two methods: 1. For those not yet awake, water quickly! Place them in a spot with better sunlight, and they will quickly recover their vitality. 2. For those already awake, repot, trim the roots, let them dry for a week, then plant them in a pot with new soil; after a while this succulent will be incomparably beautiful! 16. Do succulents need frequent root pruning? Succulents are not like orchids. Succulents are best root-pruned once a year and given new soil once a year. Because old roots have poor absorption capacity and rot easily, and the nutrients needed in the old soil have already been absorbed, while the excess unneeded impurities will affect growth. After dormancy most succulents' roots have aged or shriveled, so it is a good time for root pruning and repotting. The longer old soil in a pot is used, the worse it gets; the longer freshly mixed nutrient soil sits, the mellower it becomes.
17. What are the three major conditions for growing succulents well? To cultivate succulents perfectly, three conditions are needed: 1. Natural environment: a place with ample sunlight in all four seasons. 2. Fertile, permeable, neutral calcareous soil. 3. Human management must be appropriate: temperature and humidity must be controlled, soil preparation must be suitable, the soil must be sterilized and pests killed, roots must be trimmed and soil changed from time to time, and light fertilizer must be applied frequently. The "always shriveled, neither dying nor growing" you mentioned is due to unhealthy roots or potting soil carrying pathogens and lacking fertilizer. The solution: take the ball out, trim away old and rotten roots, leave it to dry for ten days, then plant it in new potting soil. Because roots develop slowly in late autumn, next year it will certainly grow vigorously! 18. How do succulents get through the summer, and how should they be watered? For plants dormant in summer, mist a little in the evening; for semi-dormant ones, water less; for non-dormant ones, water thoroughly. In this way they can endure even under the blazing sun and high temperatures during the day! Because at night they all get the water they each need. For a fully dormant example: a snake goes into a hole to hibernate in winter, consuming the nutrients and water stored in its body, and the water is often insufficient, but the humidity in the hole helps it.
1. Clarify a few concepts. 1. Summer: Summer refers to when the daily average temperature stays above 22°C for 5 consecutive days; this is the hottest season of the year. 2. Dormancy: A phenomenon in which life activities temporarily stop due to unfavorable environment, and can immediately resume growth when environmental conditions improve.
2. Pay attention to the problem of getting through summer. In cultivating succulents, people generally find it difficult to get some species with summer dormancy habits safely through the summer. Some may think: summer dormancy and winter dormancy are just the same, no fertilizer and less water will do. In fact, management during summer dormancy is much more complicated. First, because species differ and climates vary among cultivation areas, it is hard to determine uniformly which genus enters dormancy when; one can only rely on careful observation during cultivation and accumulated experience. This is different from managing winter-dormant species. During winter dormancy, management can largely be unified. Even if the plant has not entered dormancy and water is cut off early to force it into dormancy, there is not much harm; if it has already entered dormancy and is given one watering, then as long as you pay attention to keeping it warm there will not be much of a problem. From the summer solstice, the third geng day counts the first fu. For most succulents, from "Summer Solstice" to "End of Heat" among the twenty-four solar terms is the hardest stretch of the year. "Summer Solstice" is usually regarded as the day summer truly begins, and many succulents begin to enter their annual dormancy period. If water is cut off early before dormancy is entered, because the temperature is then high and evaporation is great, they may wither; for some species that complete the alternation of new and old leaves during dormancy, cutting off water early will affect new bud differentiation and force the old leaves to wither early, which affects the new-old alternation and causes the whole plant to die. If the plant has already entered dormancy and is then watered and fertilized, it will cause rot. Therefore, only by correctly grasping the dormancy period can the management work during summer dormancy be done well.
3. Different types, treat differently. To get your succulents safely through the summer, you must first figure out whether they belong to the winter-growing type, summer-growing type, or spring-autumn-growing type, and then arrange different care methods according to their habits. (1) Common summer-growing types (referring to varieties that do not go dormant in summer and grow vigorously) succulents: 1. Cactaceae: most cactus family plants belong to the summer-growing type. 2. Euphorbiaceae: most Euphorbiaceae plants belong to the summer-growing type (I have Euphorbia 'Hime Kirin', Euphorbia aeruginosa, Euphorbia crispa). 3. Kalanchoe genus: common ones include Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, Kalanchoe 'Fangque', Kalanchoe porphyrocalyx, Kalanchoe 'Jindie', Kalanchoe tomentosa 'Black', Kalanchoe tomentosa 'White', Kalanchoe 'Edo Murasaki', Kalanchoe tomentosa, Kalanchoe 'Fairy Dance', etc. 4. Crassula genus: common ones include Crassula 'Hua Zan', Crassula 'Ruo Lu', Crassula falcata, Crassula ovata, Crassula 'Huo Ji', Crassula 'Qing Suo Long', Crassula 'Sunset Crane', etc. 5. Orostachys genus: common ones include Orostachys malacophylla, Orostachys 'Phoenix', Orostachys 'Fuji', Orostachys iwarenge, Orostachys 'Rock Nianhua', Orostachys spinosa, etc. 6. Agave genus: common ones include Agave americana, Agave 'Lei Shen', Agave 'Princess Lei Shen', Agave 'Chuishang', Agave 'Princess Yuki no Yuki', etc. 7. Caralluma genus: common ones include Caralluma 'Purple Dragon Horn', Caralluma 'Sword Dragon Horn', Caralluma 'Dragon Horn', Caralluma 'Ashura', Caralluma 'Red-striped Horn', etc. 8. Ceropegia genus: common ones include Ceropegia woodii, Ceropegia 'Green Rain', etc. 9. Beaucarnea genus: Beaucarnea recurvata. 10. Sansevieria genus: Sansevieria trifasciata. 11. Aloe genus: Aloe arborescens, Aloe 'Bu Ye Cheng', etc. 12. Sempervivum genus: Sempervivum 'Bai Hui', Sempervivum 'Juan Juan', etc. 13. Echeveria genus: Echeveria laui, Echeveria 'Black Prince', Echeveria 'Chihuahua', Echeveria 'Huang Li', Echeveria 'Jin Si Huang', Echeveria 'Red', Echeveria 'Yamato Nishiki', Echeveria 'White Peony' (summer-spring-autumn type), etc. 14. Adenium genus: Adenium obesum, Adenium somalense. 15. Pachypodium genus: Pachypodium lamerei, Pachypodium 'Guang Tang', Pachypodium densiflorum, Pachypodium 'Hui Mei Xu Xiao', Pachypodium 'Tian Ma Kong', etc. 16. Plumeria genus: Plumeria 'Yellow Flower'. 17. Alluaudia genus: Alluaudia procera, Alluaudia ascendens, Alluaudia 'Cang Yan Long'. 18. Pedilanthus genus: Pedilanthus tithymaloides, Pedilanthus 'Da Yin Long', Pedilanthus 'Hua Yin Long', etc. 19. Cissus genus: Cissus quadrangularis 'Jade Pavilion'. 20. Anacampseros genus: Anacampseros 'Chuixue Zhi Song', Anacampseros 'Chun Meng Dian Jin', Anacampseros 'Hua Chui Xue', etc. 21. Portulacaria genus: Portulacaria afra, Portulacaria afra 'Foliis Variegatis', Portulacaria 'Purple Rice Grain', etc. 22. Portulaca genus: Portulaca 'Mao Ma Xian', Portulaca 'Wildfire', Portulaca 'White Master', etc. 23. Stapelia genus: Stapelia 'Rhino Horn', Stapelia 'Ox Horn', Stapelia grandiflora, Stapelia 'Yao Xing Horn', etc. 24. Delosperma genus: Delosperma 'Lei Tong', Delosperma 'Li Huang', Delosperma 'Zhuang Luan Yu'. 25. Fenestraria genus: Fenestraria 'Qun Yu', Fenestraria aurantiaca. 26. Frithia genus: Frithia 'Jing Wu Ji', Frithia 'Round-leaved Fugenca'. 27. Dorstenia genus: Dorstenia gigas, Dorstenia 'Needle-leaved'. 28. Commelina genus: Commelina communis, etc. 29. Glottiphyllum genus: Glottiphyllum 'Hime Beni Komatsu', 'White Phoenix Chrysanthemum' (Aizoaceae, genus Aptenia), 'Blue Pine', Pachyphytum 'Tao Meiren', Pachyphytum 'Xing Meiren', Echeveria 'Hong Zhi Lian' are all plants with no obvious dormancy period. Echeveria 'White Peony' is a Crassulaceae hybrid, belonging to the summer-growing type, dormant in winter.
(2) Management of "summer-growing type" succulents. Light: "Summer-growing type" succulents should be given sufficient sunlight. If light is insufficient, not only will the plants grow leggy, it will also affect flowering. For certain cactus-family and Euphorbiaceae varieties with columnar or spherical plant bodies, the fleshy stems will suddenly become thin, seriously affecting their appearance, and once this happens it is very hard to restore the original state; for foliage-type succulents it will cause the plant shape to loosen and the leaf color to become dull. In particular, for some varieties whose leaf color is red or whose leaf surface has patterns or white powder, the fleshy leaves will turn green and the patterns or white powder on the leaf surface will decrease or even disappear. Therefore, it is best to place the plants outdoors in a place with ample light and good ventilation for care; but for some delicate varieties, from June to August you should still avoid intense direct sunlight around noon, so as not to scorch the epidermis with strong light. Plants kept indoors for a long time or cultivated in other places with insufficient light should also not be suddenly taken into strong light; they should first be cared for in partial shade for a period, then moved to a place with stronger light, letting them gradually adapt to the environment. Temperature: Although "summer-growing type" succulents like high-temperature environments, when the summer temperature stays above 38°C, attention should also be paid to ventilation and cooling. For greenhouse ground-planted plants, the plastic film around the greenhouse can be opened to facilitate ventilation and cooling, while plastic film should still be kept on top to prevent rain, and shade netting should be laid over the plastic film to help cool things down. If conditions permit, an exhaust fan or electric fan can also be installed in the greenhouse to strengthen ventilation and avoid plant rot caused by muggy, humid conditions. For some precious varieties, white or light-colored stones can also be laid on the potting soil surface to reflect sunlight and prevent the potting soil from absorbing too much heat. Cacti under direct sunlight can promote ball growth and produce more flower buds; but the blazing sun of summer is unfavorable to cacti. At this time the balls can be moved under a corridor or onto a windowsill, so the ball body is not scorched by the blazing sun. Watering: For growing "summer-growing types" you can water fully, but there must be no water accumulation; during the rainy season pay attention to drainage and flood prevention, so that soil water accumulation does not cause root rot. It should be pointed out that although growing succulents are drought-tolerant, they do not like drought. If water is lacking for a long time during the growing season, although the plant will not die, growth will be extremely slow or even stop, and its appearance will be poor. Therefore sufficient water must be given during the growing season. The best time to water is early morning; evening is also fine, but avoid watering during the high temperatures at noon. A specially noted method for watering cacti: Summer is exactly the peak growing season for cacti, and water demand increases day by day, so they need frequent watering. Watering is best done early and late, because temperatures are lower then, and artificially increasing humidity approaches the humidity of their place of origin. At hot noon, absolutely do not water with very cold water. At this time, because the ball body has been exposed to strong light for a long time, the surface temperature of the ball rises; if you water with very cold water, it easily causes sunscald on the ball body. If the potting soil is too dry at noon, also use water whose temperature is similar to the surrounding air to spray the pot surface; the pot surface only needs to be slightly moist. If you spray too much, the hot mud in the pot will also scald the roots of the ball. When spraying, do not spray water on the top of the ball or the grafted part, so that water does not accumulate and rot the sunken top or the grafted part. Fertilizing: "Summer-growing type" succulents in the growing season can, depending on the variety, be given a fully decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer or a "low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus, high-potassium" compound fertilizer every 10 to 15 days. Newly planted plants should not be fertilized within one month, and plants with weaker growth should not be fertilized either. For most succulents, fertilize once every half month; for slow-growing varieties, once a month is also fine; for some extremely slow-growing varieties, fertilization may even be unnecessary. Do not water for a few days before fertilizing; after the potting soil is basically dry, first loosen the soil the day before, then fertilize the next day, to help the plant roots absorb. Because apart from a few varieties such as Pereskia, most succulents have very low root osmotic pressure, the concentration of the fertilizer solution must not be too high. The type of fertilizer should vary according to the plant variety and growth stage. Generally, for seedlings, and for leaf succulents that are green, the amount of nitrogen fertilizer can be somewhat higher, while for plants at the flower bud differentiation stage and flowering and fruiting stage, as well as varieties with spherical or columnar plant bodies and leaf colors of red, yellow or other non-green, more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied; stem-type succulents should be given more potassium fertilizer. Organic fertilizers to choose from include water-fermented soybean cake, sesame cake, chicken and pigeon manure, bone meal, etc. No matter what kind of fertilizer, it must be fully decomposed and diluted with water before use. Inorganic fertilizers such as urea, monopotassium phosphate, superphosphate, and various compound fertilizers and special fertilizers sold on the market can also be used when the plants are growing vigorously, but the concentration should be low and the frequency few, otherwise it will cause soil compaction and affect plant growth, proving counterproductive. But undecomposed eggshells, soy milk, fresh milk, etc., as well as salty meat soup and bones, must not be used. When fertilizing, be careful not to splash fertilizer solution onto the plants. A specially noted method for fertilizing cacti: Many people think that cacti grow in the barren deserts and semi-desert areas of their place of origin and do not need fertilizer. In fact, home-grown cacti, like other flowers, need fertilizer. In their vigorous summer growing season, they exactly need a large amount of nutrients as supplement, so apply 1-2 times a week a dilute fertilizer solution high in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Do not apply chemical fertilizer, lest poor control of the ingredients burn the ball body. A specially noted method for preventing pests and diseases in cacti: Home-grown cacti generally are placed in cramped spots with hot, humid air and poor ventilation, and are susceptible to red spider mites, scale insects and whiteflies, causing the plants to completely lose ornamental value. If red spider mite damage is found, use 25% omethoate diluted 1000 times with water to spray and kill them. If there is scale insect or whitefly damage, manual capture and killing can be used. When the damaged part cannot turn green again, if the damaged part is low, the top of the ball can be cut off and re-grafted; if the top is damaged, then cut off the top to encourage the base to sprout offsets, so as to preserve the species and propagate.
(3) Common "winter-growing type" and "spring-autumn type" (that is, dormant in summer and growing in winter, spring and autumn) succulents. 1. Haworthia genus: common ones include Haworthia fasciata, Haworthia 'Bao Cao', Haworthia cooperi, Haworthia 'Shou', Haworthia 'Jin Cheng', Haworthia 'Long Lin', Haworthia truncata, Haworthia maughanii, etc. 2. Bowiea genus: common ones include Bowiea volubilis (mine is the small Bowiea volubilis), etc. 3. Gasteria genus: common ones include Gasteria 'Tiger's Scroll', Gasteria 'Zi Bao', Gasteria 'Wo Niu', Gasteria 'Zhao Ji', Gasteria 'Dinosaur', Gasteria 'Liuli Hall', etc. 4. Crassula genus: common ones include Crassula 'Qian Chuan', Crassula 'Ba', Crassula 'Yu Chun', Crassula 'Qian Zhi Ta' (green tower), Crassula 'Du Xing', Crassula 'Lu Qian Hui', Crassula 'Xing Yi Nü', Crassula 'Long Gong Cheng', Crassula 'Li Que', etc. 5. Sedum genus (spring-autumn type): common ones include Sedum 'Ming Yue', Sedum 'Guan Yin Lian', Sedum 'Yu Zhu Lian', Sedum 'Yi Nü Xin', Sedum 'Yachiyo', Sedum rubrotinctum, Sedum 'Round-leaved Evergreen', etc. 6. Aeonium genus (spring-autumn type): Aeonium 'Can Lan', Aeonium 'Hua Ye Han Yue Ye', Aeonium 'Ai Ran Jin', Aeonium 'Ming Jing', Aeonium decorum, Aeonium 'Xi Ying', Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop', Aeonium 'Jin Huang Xing', etc. 7. Lithops genus: common ones include Lithops, Lithops 'Hua Wen Yu', Lithops 'Ri Lun Yu', Lithops 'Zhu Xian Yu', Lithops 'Li Furen', etc. 8. Conophytum genus: Conophytum 'Shao Jiang', Conophytum 'Ji Guang', Conophytum 'Guang Yuan Shi', Conophytum 'Angel'. 9. Pleiospilos genus (spring-autumn type): common ones include Pleiospilos nelii, Pleiospilos 'Qing Luan', Pleiospilos 'Feng Luan', etc. 10. Glottiphyllum genus (spring-autumn type): common ones include Glottiphyllum 'An Lu', Glottiphyllum 'Zao Yi Nü', Glottiphyllum 'Zhe He', etc. 11. Adromischus genus (spring-autumn type): Adromischus 'Tian Jin Zhang', Adromischus 'Shen Xiang Qu', Adromischus 'Yu Suo Jin', etc. 12. Cotyledon genus (spring-autumn type): Cotyledon tomentosa, Cotyledon 'Xu Bo Zhi Guang', Cotyledon 'Fu Niang', Cotyledon undulata, etc. 13. Cotyledon genus: Cotyledon 'E Pang Gong', Cotyledon 'Qi Feng Jin', Cotyledon 'Sha Shan Hu'. 14. Graptopetalum genus (spring-autumn type): Graptopetalum 'Mei Li Lian', Graptopetalum paraguayense, Graptopetalum 'Bie Lu Zhu'. 15. Anacampseros genus: Anacampseros 'Silver Silkworm', Anacampseros 'Xue Chang E', Anacampseros 'Ren Jin', Anacampseros 'Qun Can'. 16. Faucaria genus: Faucaria 'Qun Bo', Faucaria 'Si Hai Bo', Faucaria 'Huang Bo', Faucaria 'Nu Bo', Faucaria 'Xue Bo', Faucaria 'Da Xue Xi Bo'. 17. Bergeranthus genus: Bergeranthus 'Zhao Bo'. 18. Rhinephyllum genus: Rhinephyllum 'Tang Shan', etc. 19. Frithia genus: Frithia 'Guang Yu'. 20. Titanopsis genus: Titanopsis 'Tian Nü', Titanopsis 'Tian Nü Guan', Titanopsis 'Tian Nü Zan'. 21. Dinteranthus genus: Dinteranthus 'Ling Yao Yu', Dinteranthus 'Nan Man Yu'. 22. Nananthus genus (spring-autumn type): Nananthus 'Xiao Song Bo', Nananthus 'Xi Bao', Nananthus 'Zi Huang Xing', etc. 23. Glottiphyllum genus (spring-autumn type): Glottiphyllum 'Bao Lu', etc. 24. Machairophyllum genus (spring-autumn-winter type): Machairophyllum 'Kuai Dao Luan Ma'. 25. Portulacaria genus: Portulacaria 'Money Tree' (suitable for temperatures of 20-32°C), should be a short-summer-dormancy type. 26. Asteraceae, Senecio genus (spring-autumn-winter type): Senecio 'Qi Bao Shu'. Those not marked (spring-autumn type) are all winter type. Deer-antler starfish, purple barbed knife, and string of pearls are spring-autumn type. In addition: blue pine, Pachyphytum 'Tao Meiren', Pachyphytum 'Xing Meiren' are all plants with no obvious dormancy period.
(4) Summer management of common winter-growing type and spring-autumn type succulents. Light: Winter-growing type succulents basically stop growing in summer, so avoid direct sunlight, but they also cannot be placed in a place without light, otherwise they may grow leggy and their appearance will suffer. It is recommended to place them on a windowsill facing southwest, or in a bright place without direct sunlight, and pay attention to ventilation. Temperature: Although the place of origin of succulents is in hot regions, if the temperature stays above 35°C, attention should also be paid to ventilation and cooling. If grown at home, they should be placed indoors with air circulation maintained; when people are at home the windows can be opened, and even when no one is there it is best to leave a gap in the windows. In addition, laying a layer of volcanic stone on the surface of the potting soil layer can also help cool things down. Watering: Succulents most fear water accumulation. Especially in summer, growers feel that the water in the soil dries quickly, so they water frequently, causing the roots to stay wet for a long time and rot, with no way to recover. In fact, summer air humidity is high; although the soil surface appears dry, the bottom has not dried through, and this is even more so in southern regions. For winter-growing type succulents, watering should be strictly controlled in summer, and above 35°C you can consider cutting off water. Even if watering, only use a pressure spray bottle to moisten the soil surface, avoiding leaving water droplets on the leaves; if obvious water droplets remain on the leaves, they should be blown away, so that the droplets do not gather and focus intense light and scorch the leaves. For varieties with extremely fleshy leaves, such as Aizoaceae Lithops, Conophytum, Ophthalmophyllum, Dinteranthus and Pleiospilos, in early to mid-May you can still water a little, but after June watering must be strictly controlled, and water can even be cut off completely, so as not to cause plant rot.
4. Summary of getting through summer. In short, to get your succulents safely through the summer, after figuring out whether your succulents belong to the "winter-growing type", "spring-autumn type" or "summer-growing type", treat them differently. "Winter-growing type" and "spring-autumn type" succulents begin to go dormant after summer arrives, and these plants are the ones needing key care; although "summer-growing type" succulents grow as usual, you must also pay attention to avoiding direct sunlight at noon, ensuring ventilation and cooling in high-temperature weather, and preventing water accumulation when watering, which causes root rot. In short, for the succulents to get through the summer healthily, besides careful observation and attentive care, there is still a lot of homework to do. For succulents whose type you cannot determine as winter-growing or summer-growing, as long as you follow the three key points of avoiding blazing sun, controlling watering, and maintaining ventilation, you can also achieve foolproof results. Summer-growing type plants are dormant in winter, winter-growing type plants are dormant in summer, and spring-autumn type plants grow obviously in spring and autumn and go dormant to varying degrees in severe winter and midsummer. When watering dormant plants, do it in appropriate amounts, and do not pour into the growing point. For plants with fuzz, white powder, or highly fleshy bodies, do not spray. Special note: Because each person's cultivation soil, cultivation site, temperature and humidity differ, the growing methods need to be adjusted and mastered by each person, and cannot be copied wholesale. The above materials were compiled by Mr. Ai Ru He over a great deal of time, for reference only, and corrections are welcome. Wishing all flower friends luxuriant flowers and leaves and a garden full of fragrance.
How do you judge that a succulent has entered dormancy? Plants usually show: no growth within the season, little change in appearance, slow response to water and fertilizer, shriveling, and susceptibility to rot, etc. Once the climate environment changes (mainly temperature changes), they continue growing; at this time, if it is not due to factors such as disease, they have entered dormancy. Dormancy is mainly judged by cultivation experience. Personal growing factors often differ, and dormancy conditions also differ. Plants dormant in the north often grow in the south; with ventilation and cooling or heating and humidifying, plants will also not go dormant. During dormancy, one must rely on continuous exploration in cultivation to improve growing experience. For example, Lithops enters summer dormancy in the Jianghuai region in June, while some species, Qu Yu and Xiao Wen Yu, do not go dormant in summer, and this is experience gained through cultivation. However, often one only discovers this when plants are lost, and this is also one reason everyone needs to communicate more. Second, plants that are dormant in their place of origin will usually also go dormant, and dormancy can be judged by collecting information. Generally speaking, when the temperature exceeds or falls below the plant's growth and tolerance limits, dormancy is needed. This is also one reason to understand some plant and classification basics of succulents. For example, the place of origin and environment can tell us the differences in cultivation environments. When climate in the environment changes, pay attention to their changes, and thereby judge the dormancy period; classification knowledge lets us, while understanding that 1 variety has a dormancy habit, judge whether this 1 genus or even this 1 family of plants also has a dormancy habit. Then, in the cultivation process, when encountering this situation you must also act carefully; after going through 1 year's growth cycle, it becomes easy to judge and avoid unnecessary losses! For example, succulents native to southeastern South Africa and Madagascar are mostly dormant; the place of origin of Pachypodium 'Guang Tang' is that region, so it must be dormant. Does the same-genus Pachypodium lamerei also go dormant? You must pay attention. Through cultivation we know that in fact Pachypodium lamerei is a semi-dormant plant. And with ventilation and shading, as long as the temperature is not too high, it can still grow. So botany and classification knowledge are very important when growing succulents! Some plants, during dormancy, show almost no change in the plant's appearance, simply cannot be told from the plant's features, and you may even see phenomena such as the growing point turning green, so you must be even more careful and absolutely must not take things for granted and be blindly optimistic! It is even more necessary to first understand their growth habits! In short, through continuous accumulation of cultivation experience and mutual learning, knowledge in this area can be increased. It is precisely because, besides the succulents' own beauty and distinctive appearance, the differences and certain difficulty in cultivating and growing succulents so attract people, drawing attention to these exotic plants out of curiosity and challenge! When you gain knowledge and experience from cultivation, and watch them grow vigorously and healthily, that is also the greatest satisfaction and joy!
19. Overwintering methods for home-grown succulents and cacti: 1. Basic conditions for overwintering: the more ample the sunlight the better, the temperature above 1°C at the lowest, and above 15°C during the day is best. The humidity of the potting soil follows the watering principle: water when the soil is dry, but it is best not to water thoroughly; another method: on bright sunny mornings you can spray clear water on the plant body. Shanghai's winter is damp and cold, which does not matter; just make sure the humidity of the small microclimate created by your setup is not too high! 2. Introducing several overwintering methods: (1) General indoor method: Place them along the windowsill inside the window, or inside a closed balcony lay a wider board or glass pane, or use stepped tiers, low in front and rising toward the back, so it is clear at a glance and neat and attractive. This style is best placed on the east side of the balcony, where the light duration is longer than on the west side. To raise the temperature inside the pot and the ambient humidity, and to guard against cold wind attacks when windows are opened, use disposable thin plastic cups as covers over the pots; for large pots you can cut a large cola bottle in half and use only the upper part as a cover. (2) Glass tank setup growing method: 1. Using glass fish tanks for growing: according to your own available growing space, prepare several tanks of different sizes. Put 2 cm of coarse yellow sand in the bottom of the tank, lay several slender glass strips on top, and place the pots on top so they do not stick to the sand. Cover the tank with glass; if there is bright sunny weather, you can lay a chopstick across to prop it open, preventing high temperatures from damaging the plant body. 2. Homemade larger special glass house: custom-make the size of the house according to the size of the place you can set it up. Example: length 1 m, width 0.5 m, height 0.4 m. On the upper edge of the 0.5 m width, at the front 0.25 m, it is best to have a 25-degree slope (to receive more sunlight); at the front of the house make three movable sliding doors, to make it easy to put pots in and take them out and to leave moving gaps to release hot air. It is best to glue a middle partition glass plate vertically in the middle of the 1 m length of the tank, and above it glue two left and right glass plates 8 cm across on both sides (flower pots can be placed on top to fully use the space inside the house). Similarly: above the other two long sides you can also glue one 8 cm wide long strip of horizontal glass plate on each side (four such plates in total). On the bottom plane of the glass house you can lay a highly absorbent hairy thick soft plastic film (the filter film of a tropical fish tank), then lay a layer of window screen netting on top (to prevent pots from sticking to the bottom), and it is done. Effects: raises temperature and humidity, allows more pots in the same space, and is elegant and attractive.
(3) Foam box setup growing method: Use one square foam box, or two or three fastened together, laid flat together. Place four square wooden strips upright at the four corners, then fasten four long square wooden strips to the four corner square wooden strips (best to make the side facing the sunlight lower, for the sake of receiving more light). Then surround it with plastic film, leaving one movable plastic door at the pot-access point that can be pulled down and sealed. On the bottom face of the square or long foam box, put in mixed soil and press it firm, then lay window screen netting on top (to prevent soil from sticking to pot bottoms). This is the simplest method when winter comes. (4) Outdoor growing method: Outside the window, make a flower stand that can hold a square (or long) foam box, then make a glass tank with one movable side that fits exactly into the square (or long) foam box. At night, put a tall, deep foam box of the same size as the one below over the outside of the glass tank, and require it to fit exactly flush with the lower foam box surface, so outside cold air cannot enter. This method safely gets through outside temperatures of minus two or three degrees. Note: For method (4) above, pay attention: the bottom of the sliding door of the inner glass tank should be slightly higher by one cm than the lower foam box surface, because the door bottom needs to hold relatively thick mixed soil, the purpose being to store heat during the day and get through the cold of the night. When it is especially cold, add more heat. In setups (2) and (3), heaters can be installed for warming so that succulents can also grow normally in winter. Succulent plant viewing.
Article source: internet. Carefully compiled and organized. Shared for public benefit.
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