What are the key points to note when growing spider plants? These few things you should know

1. Light

Spider plants are sensitive to light. If exposed to direct sunlight in summer and autumn, the leaves will turn yellow and withered, and the whole plant may even die. In winter, since the sunlight is not strong, the spider plant can be given some direct sunlight.

2. Temperature

The optimum growing temperature for spider plants is 15-25°C

3. Watering

Spider plants like water, and during the vigorous growth period the potting soil should be kept completely moist. During the winter dormant period, water again only after the top about one cm of the potting soil has dried. If the soil is too dry, the leaf rosette will temporarily lose color and only regain its original color after watering again, while the leaf tips may permanently turn brown, greatly reducing its ornamental value.

Spider plants also like higher air humidity, so when the climate is dry in summer and autumn, measures such as misting should be used to increase the air humidity around the plant, otherwise the leaf tips or edges may also become scorched.

4. Fertilizing

For spider plants that have begun to produce small plantlets, a nitrogen-based top dressing can be applied once every half month.

5. Soil

Spider plants are suited to a loose, fertile sandy loam.

6. Propagation

Spider plants are generally propagated by division or by cutting off at any time the young plantlets with aerial roots on the flower scapes and planting them directly. Too much watering easily causes root rot, while excessive dryness makes the leaves and branches turn yellow. The potting soil should be kept alternating between dry and moist, and clean water should often be sprayed on the leaf surface with a fine-nozzle watering can. When brought indoors for the winter, watering should be restricted, and the leaves can be misted once every seven to ten days.

Spider plants have many uses, and growing them is not difficult. Do you want to grow a pot now too?

Key points to note when growing string of pearls:

1. Watering and light

Because the leaves are fleshy and juicy, it is drought-tolerant. When growing it, watering should preferably be on the dry side rather than wet, which is one of the keys to success. When the weather is dry, more water can be sprayed on the leaves and stems to make up for the lack of moisture and keep the beads green and plump. It prefers partial shade; strong sun exposure may scorch the beads, while too weak light makes growth poor.

2. The plant's root system is very shallow, so it can be planted in a shallow pot

Generally, a tile is used to cover the bottom hole, and a layer of cinder or coarse sand is spread to increase aeration and drainage. The soil is best leaf mold mixed with a certain amount of sand, with a soil-to-sand ratio of about 1:3.

3. Slow growth at high and low temperatures

It likes warmth and moisture, is relatively cold-tolerant and heat-tolerant, with an optimum temperature of about 20°C-28°C. Growth is slow at both high and low temperatures, and in a high-temperature environment above 30°C it almost goes dormant, so watering and fertilizing should be reduced, otherwise root rot easily occurs. This is also one of the keys to successful cultivation.

4. Apply light fertilizer frequently during vigorous growth

During the vigorous spring and autumn growth seasons, "light fertilizer, applied frequently" should be used. Frequently spraying the leaves with 1-3‰ nitrogen fertilizer and potassium dihydrogen phosphate helps make the beads greener and plumper and improves their ornamental value.

Tools:

String of pearls plant, small trowel, nutrient soil, flower pot

Specific steps:

1. Prepare a flower pot. This is a special hanging pot for spider plants; you can also make your own pot.

2. For the soil, choose something soft and nutritious. You can buy ready-mixed nutrient soil from the market. Pour the nutrient soil into the flower pot, but do not fill it too full.

3. Place the string of pearls in the flower pot.

4. Arrange it according to the growth of the string of pearls.

5. After arranging the string of pearls, bury the roots. Use a small trowel to cover the roots and stems of the string of pearls with nutrient soil.

6. Once the roots and stems are buried, you are done.

7. Be careful not to cover the leaves of the string of pearls. The other parts of the "lover's tears" can all be covered. The lover's tears grows very vigorously, and the covered stem parts will sprout on their own to obtain the nutrients they need. You only need to wait about 1 week after planting, and new sprouts will emerge. Once the old leaves have also passed the acclimatization period, you can spray some water appropriately. Remember not to water directly.

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How to grow string of pearls, key points to note when growing string of pearls

String of pearls is named for its plump, full, emerald-green oval small leaves that resemble pearls. It is also known as jade beads, lover's tears, Buddhist bead spider plant, jade beads, green bells, and green bell. The flowering period is generally from December of the current year to January of the following year. Below is an introduction to how to grow string of pearls and the points to note.

The plant's root system is very shallow, so it can be planted in a shallow pot. Generally, a tile is used to cover the bottom hole, and a layer of cinder or coarse sand is spread to increase aeration and drainage (especially when planting in commonly used plastic pots). The soil is best leaf mold (fallen leaves of trees in autumn and winter mixed with a certain amount of crushed soil), mixed with a certain amount of sand (soil-to-sand ratio of about 1:3).

Root rot easily occurs in summer, so watering should not be too frequent; a small spray bottle should be used for watering.

It likes warmth and moisture, is relatively cold-tolerant (when grown in the Jianghuai region it can tolerate a low temperature of 0°C) and heat-tolerant, with an optimum temperature of about 20°C-28°C. Growth is slow at both high and low temperatures, and in a high-temperature environment it almost goes dormant

In spring and autumn, "light fertilizer, applied frequently" should be used. Frequently spraying the leaves with 1-3‰ nitrogen fertilizer and potassium dihydrogen phosphate helps make it greener and plumper and improves its ornamental value.

There are rarely pests or diseases. Aphids in spring are one of them; remove them promptly or spray 1500x omethoate to kill them. Mites in summer and autumn are the next; 1000x dicofol is needed to kill them. Pay attention to ventilation and increasing leaf surface humidity, which can reduce mite infestation.

String of pearls likes a partially shaded environment. If the light at the placement site is too strong or insufficient, the leaves easily turn pale green or yellow-green, lose vitality, lose their proper ornamental value, and may even dry up and die. If there is direct sunlight and dry air, it most easily causes the spider plant to scorch, so it should be placed in a cool, ventilated place, and attention should be paid to maintaining environmental humidity.

1. Caused by dry air, excessively strong sunlight, and excessively high temperature. This situation mainly occurs in summer and autumn, because spider plants like to grow in humid and partially shaded environments. Once the air is too dry and the sunlight is unobstructed, and if the temperature is as high as above 30°C, it is very easy to cause the leaf tips of the spider plant to wither. If this is the case, move the plant to a partially shaded environment, cut off the withered leaves, and frequently spray water on the leaves and the environment; the newly grown leaves can return to a normal state.

2. Caused by water accumulation in the potting soil and rot of the nutrient fibrous roots. Because the potting soil is compacted or too sticky and heavy, or because watering is too frequent and too much, the nutrient fibrous roots of the spider plant rot. In this way, the root system's ability to absorb water greatly declines, causing the tips of the spider plant leaves to turn black first and the edges to curl inward. If this is the case, take the plant out of the flower pot, shake off part of the old soil, cut off the rotted root parts, and replant it in clean, moist sand. Keep the sand moist, but do not spray too much water. After it has produced white, tender fine fibrous roots, replace with fresh fertile culture soil and replant.

3. Caused by not repotting for a long time, so that the roots grow right up to the pot wall. In a high-temperature, high-drought or cold-weather environment, this easily causes the root tips to shrink and necrose, making them lose their proper absorbing function, thus causing the leaf tips to dry up and shrink. If this is the case, first take the plant out of the flower pot, cut off the dead leaves or the necrotic parts of the leaves, then remove part of the old soil, cut away some aged or necrotic roots, replace with fresh culture soil and replant it, and place it in a cool, moist, partially shaded environment. Be careful to spray more water and water less; the plant's newly grown tender leaves can then return to normal.

4. String of pearls is cold-tolerant and loves a humid, warm climate. The optimum growing temperature is 15-25°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, string of pearls stops growing. At this time, the frequency of watering should be reduced to avoid root rot. If rot begins, immediately cut off the rotted part and take cuttings from the healthy parts.

5. During the vigorous spring and autumn growth seasons of string of pearls, light fertilizer can be applied multiple times. Frequently spray the leaves of string of pearls with 1-3‰ nitrogen fertilizer and potassium dihydrogen phosphate, thereby making the beads of string of pearls plumper and giving it greater ornamental value.