Perfume Lily Planting Methods and Precautions
Fertilizing
When planting perfume lilies, you not only need to choose a place with fertile soil and good air permeability. At the same time, perfume lilies also have an indispensable need for nutrient elements during growth. So in the process of planting perfume lilies, relying only on the nutrients in the soil itself is far from enough; we need to apply additional fertilizer to perfume lilies so that they grow more vigorously.
Temperature and moisture
Perfume lilies like a warm and dry environment. When planting perfume lilies, keep the temperature at around 16 to 24°C to maintain normal growth. Perfume lilies do not have high water requirements. When watering, you only need to keep the soil moist. Too much water will make the leaves of perfume lilies turn yellow, and may even cause their roots and stems to rot.
Light
Perfume lilies need sufficient light during the growth period. Abundant light can not only promote the growth of perfume lilies, but also make them bloom earlier. However, after the flowers of perfume lilies open, light can be reduced to slow their growth rate and prolong the flowering period.
Alright, the above is a summary and introduction on the question of how long the perfume lily flowering period lasts. Growing perfume lilies is not very difficult. By following the correct cultivation methods, I believe you can definitely grow more elegant and beautiful perfume lilies.
How to plant perfume lilies Perfume lily planting methods
As a category among lilies, the perfume lily is the queen of lilies. So how do you plant such a beautiful perfume lily? This article introduces how to plant perfume lilies and perfume lily planting methods. People who do not know the planting methods can refer to the article!
Preparation work before planting
1. Soil disinfection: Before planting lilies, the soil must be disinfected. Commonly used disinfection methods include steam disinfection and chemical disinfection. Because steam disinfection consumes a lot of energy and is troublesome to operate, it is rarely used at present. Chemical disinfection uses 40% formalin prepared into a 1:50 or 1:100 medicinal solution and sprinkles it on the soil, with an amount of 2.5 kg/sq m. After sprinkling, cover with plastic film for 5-7 days, uncover and air-dry for 10-15 days, and then plant. Or use 8-10 g/m2 of carbendazim original powder and scatter it into the soil for disinfection.
2. Thawing and disinfection of bulbs: After the bulbs arrive, immediately open the packaging and place them in a 10-15°C environment to thaw. After they are completely thawed, disinfect them. Disinfection method: Soak the bulbs in a one-thousandth aqueous solution of captan, chlorothalonil, carbendazim, potassium permanganate, etc. for 30 minutes. You can also soak the bulbs in an 80-fold 40% formalin solution for 30 minutes, then take them out and rinse off the residual solution on the bulbs with clean water, then dry them in a cool place before planting. Some domestic planting bases cut off the original basal roots before planting, which helps promote the growth of new basal roots.
3. Storage of bulbs: If the thawed bulbs cannot all be planted immediately, they must not be frozen again, otherwise there is a risk of freezing damage. They can be stored at 0-2°C, but for no more than two weeks; they can also be stored in a 2-5°C environment for no more than one week, and the plastic film packaging must be opened at the same time.
Planting depth and density
For planting in spring and summer, the planting depth requires the top of the bulb to be 8-10 cm from the soil surface, and in winter 6-8 cm. Planting density varies depending on the variety, bulb size, and seasonal factors. In spring and summer, they can be planted more densely; in winter, when sunlight is weaker, they should be planted more sparsely.
Harvesting and storage of lily cut flowers
1. Harvesting: Harvest only after at least 2-3 buds have shown color. Harvesting too early affects flower color, making the flowers look pale and unattractive, and some buds may fail to open. Harvesting too late will make post-harvest handling and packaging difficult, the petals will be soiled by pollen, and the opened flowers will release ethylene, greatly shortening the freshness period of the flowers.
2. Handling: After harvesting, remove the lower 10 cm of leaves, then grade and bundle them. A grade interval of 10 cm is appropriate. For lilies tied in one bunch, the longest stem and the shortest stem should preferably not differ by more than 5 cm, and the tops of the flowers should be aligned.
3. Storage: After bundling, lilies should be placed immediately into clean, pre-cooled water, then placed in a cold storage room. The temperature of the water and the cold storage room should preferably be 2-3°C.
How to plant perfume lilies and the planting methods for perfume lilies have now been introduced. Perfume lilies like to live in a fertile environment with suitable temperatures. In winter, the temperature should not be lower than 5°C. If the temperature is too low, it will affect their growth, and later it will also affect bud development and other conditions. Everyone should pay attention to this point!
Are perfume lilies toxic? Perfume lily planting methods
Perfume lily flowers are brightly colored, have a fresh fragrance, and carry beautiful meanings such as nobility and elegance. Are perfume lilies toxic? Below, let's talk about the planting methods for perfume lilies.
Are perfume lilies toxic?
Perfume lilies are non-toxic. The fragrance released when they bloom is slightly toxic and may cause symptoms such as insomnia. Some people feel nauseated and want to vomit when they smell the scent of perfume lilies, which proves that you are quite sensitive to the toxicity of that flower, so it is best not to grow them. People with allergies, poor heart conditions, and poor sleep should not place lilies indoors.
Perfume lily planting methods:
1. Soil: Perfume lilies like fertile, deep soil rich in humus, and most dislike hard clay; slightly acidic soil with good drainage is best, with a soil pH of 5.5-6.5.
2. Watering: For watering, you only need to keep the potting soil moist. The potting soil should not be too wet, otherwise the bulbs are prone to rot.
3. Light: Potted lilies have different requirements for light intensity at different growth stages. During the bud stage, shading treatment is needed, and if the leaf temperature is too high, appropriate shading should also be provided. In other growth periods, light should be strengthened, especially during the flower development period. Temperature: The growth and flowering temperature of perfume lilies is 16-24°C. Below 5°C or above 30°C, growth almost stops. Only above 10°C do plants grow normally. Above 25°C, growth stalls again. If the winter nighttime temperature is below 5°C for 5-7 consecutive days, flower bud differentiation and bud development will be seriously affected, delaying flowering or even causing blind flowers and split flowers.
4. Fertilizing: Lilies have a relatively large need for nitrogen and potassium fertilizers, and should be applied once every 10-15 days during the growth period, while phosphate fertilizer should be limited, because too much phosphate fertilizer will cause leaves to turn yellow. (During the flowering period, phosphate fertilizer can be added for 1-2 days.)
5. Pests and diseases:
(1) Gray mold: Use a 500-fold solution of captan, thiophanate-methyl, or zineb for control.
(3) Root rot: The diseased plants need to be pulled out, and then dexon should be used to disinfect the soil.
(4) Pests: For aphids, mites, white grubs, and cutworms, use omethoate, dicofol, and poison bait for control.
6. Pruning: To make the bulbs plump, lilies can be cut off at the base after flowering to reduce nutrient consumption, because flowering has already consumed a lot of nutrients from the bulb. If you want to keep the bulbs for continued planting, you must continue fertilizing to supplement the bulbs' nutrients. After one month, you can dig out the bulbs, cut off the fibrous roots, place them in the refrigerator for cold storage for a period of time to break dormancy, and then plant them later, but the flower quality will decline.