Detailed Guide to the Cultivation Methods and Care Techniques of the Wind Orchid
Environment
The wind orchid is not a terrestrial orchid but a parasitic orchid; it can grow epiphytically on tree bark, green algae or rock, so it can be cultivated without soil and needs no soil culture. Of course, it can also be planted in flower pots, which makes everyday viewing and management more convenient.
Watering
The wind orchid likes a humid environment, so when growing it you should maintain a steady supply of moisture. But do not water too much at one time; about the same as for ordinary plants is enough. Take special care to increase watering in summer to prevent the wind orchid from suffering from lack of water and declining. In winter, hardly any watering is needed; just spray a small amount of water with a spray bottle each time.
Sunlight
Although the wind orchid likes to grow in relatively shady places, it still needs sunlight; if it lacks light, the wind orchid will reproduce very slowly. During actual cultivation, the amount of light should be adjusted according to the different varieties of wind orchid; robust varieties can take a little more light, while delicate varieties should receive less light.
The orchid, together with the plum, bamboo and chrysanthemum, is known as one of the "Four Gentlemen", and often appears in the poetry, songs and paintings of ancient Chinese literati. As a type of orchid, the wind orchid has also given rise to many other names as it has been celebrated. Below, let the editor introduce to you the alternative names of the wind orchid!
Cultivation Methods of the Wind Orchid
The wind orchid grows epiphytically on Chinese torreya or other tree trunks; in summer it should be shaded, placed in a cool, ventilated spot, and kept at a certain humidity. After the leaves fall in winter, place it in a wind-sheltered, sun-facing spot. But it should not be placed on the ground; it is best placed on a partition board or under a tree, or on a balcony. It is best cultivated in a greenhouse in winter and grown outdoors in summer.
If the number reaches about 10 pots, hang them in wire baskets from a window or tree branch. In winter it is best cultivated indoors, requiring sun exposure and good ventilation, and maintaining a certain temperature and humidity.
The wind orchid can be divided in both spring and autumn, generally once every three years. Any plant that grows robustly with crowded pseudobulbs can be divided; after division, each cluster must retain at least 5 pseudobulbs connected together.
The shading rate for the wind orchid is 60% in summer and 40% in winter; an appropriate awning or hanging mat and similar facilities can be set up. A light breeze is best; if the balcony is windy, it is best to set up protection such as a windbreak screen. If the temperature conditions meet the standards of its wild environment, it is relatively easy to grow. But what cannot be ignored is that even in a wild environment, to improve its ornamental value, some special management measures must be taken in winter. If the humidity is insufficient, it is best to spray water with a spray bottle to ensure appropriate humidity.
An Introduction to the Cultivation Methods of the Wind Orchid!
The wind orchid gets its name because it likes to grow in ventilated, high-humidity places. Since ancient times, it has been deeply loved by people. The wind orchid also has many names. For example, because it likes to grow in clean places such as rock or trees, and is noble and carries a faint delicate fragrance, it is called the immortal grass. And ancient poets and scholars liked to hang it under the eaves while discussing elegant matters, hence the name Xuanlan. Also, because of its dignified and noble bearing, people call it the wealth-and-honor orchid. Today, let me briefly introduce the cultivation methods of the wind orchid.
Cultivation Methods of the Wind Orchid
The wind orchid grows epiphytically on Chinese torreya or other tree trunks; in summer it should be shaded, placed in a cool, ventilated spot, and kept at a certain humidity. After the leaves fall in winter, place it in a wind-sheltered, sun-facing spot. But it should not be placed on the ground; it is best placed on a partition board or under a tree, or on a balcony.
In winter, cultivate the wind orchid in a greenhouse; in summer, it is best to grow it outdoors. If the number reaches about 10 pots, hang them in wire baskets from a window or tree branch. In winter it is best cultivated indoors, requiring sun exposure and good ventilation, and maintaining a certain temperature and humidity.
The shading rate is 60% in summer and 40% in winter; an appropriate awning or hanging mat and similar facilities can be set up. A light breeze is best; if the balcony is windy, it is best to set up protection such as a windbreak screen. If the temperature conditions meet the standards of its wild environment, it is fairly easy to grow.
But what cannot be ignored is that even in a wild environment, to improve its ornamental value, some special management measures must be taken in winter. If the humidity is insufficient, it is best to spray water with a spray bottle to ensure appropriate humidity. Humidity plays an important role in the growth of the wind orchid.
During its growth, the wind orchid is prone to damage from pests and diseases such as sheath rust fungus, southern blight and anthracnose, so relevant prevention and control work for pests and diseases needs to be done in advance. Sheath rust fungus usually appears on the upper and lower surfaces of the wind orchid's leaves, and less often on the stems, as raised small pustules containing powdery spores that are yellow, orange, rust-colored or even purplish-black. Rust disease is not fatal, and the leaves will not die either, but it weakens the plant's growth. Besides cutting off diseased leaves, the control method is to spray with a 500—600 times dilution of 65% zineb powder or a copper-containing fungicide.
Southern blight mostly occurs in the plum rain season. When it first appears, the leaf base is covered with white mycelium, causing the rhizome to rot. The control method is to remove the infected potting soil and sprinkle on pentachloronitrobenzene powder or lime. The fundamental cure is to ensure ventilation and light, and good drainage of the potting soil. Severely diseased plants should be burned. Anthracnose occurs all year round, and is more rampant in hot, rainy seasons, with Jian orchid being especially susceptible. The lesions first extend from the leaf tip toward the rhizome, initially brown, then gradually enlarging and increasing, with many dry black spots appearing, and in severe cases causing the whole plant to die.
The control method is, besides actively improving the environmental conditions, during the disease period, to first spray with an 800—1500 times dilution of 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder, once every 7—10 days. Then supplement with 1% equal-strength Bordeaux mixture, once every half month, spraying 3—5 times in succession. Scale insects are commonly known as "orchid lice". Under conditions of high temperature, high humidity and poor air circulation, they reproduce fastest. During the hatching period, spray with 1% omethoate or a 1500 times dilution of 50% malathion. If there are not many pots, they can also be removed manually by brushing, and must be thoroughly cleared.