Identification and Control Methods for Diseases of Alocasia macrorrhiza
Leaf spot disease: Leaf spot disease can be treated by spraying the leaf surface with an 800-fold dilution of chlorothalonil or carbendazim, for 2-3 consecutive applications, once every 7 days. Anthracnose: Anthracnose requires spraying the leaf surface with a 500-fold dilution of 75% thiophanate-methyl, once every 7 days, for 2-3 consecutive applications, which can basically bring it under control
Leaf spot disease
Leaf spot disease can be treated by spraying the leaf surface with an 800-fold dilution of chlorothalonil or carbendazim, for 2-3 consecutive applications, once every 7 days.
Anthracnose
Anthracnose requires spraying the leaf surface with a 500-fold dilution of 75% thiophanate-methyl, once every 7 days, for 2-3 consecutive applications, which can basically bring it under control.
Fusarium wilt
It shows on the stem. There is a type of fusarium wilt caused by bacterial infection. This disease is not easy to detect in its early stages, and once discovered it will already be very serious. If you find the stem leaning to one side, or there is a wilting spot, then it has definitely developed fusarium wilt. You can use a small knife to cut out the diseased part; the boundary between the diseased part and the healthy part is very obvious, and generally it can be broken off by hand. If the diseased part is less than one third of the stem, you can apply a layer of chlorothalonil solution to the healthy part and keep it dry, then apply another layer after ten days, and after 20 days it can basically heal.
The above are the treatment methods for common pests and diseases of Alocasia macrorrhiza. We hope this helps you better grow Alocasia macrorrhiza! For more content about Alocasia macrorrhiza, stay tuned to Four Seasons Plant Network!
Introduction to Common Diseases of Alocasia macrorrhiza
Alocasia macrorrhiza (details) is a relatively common indoor foliage plant, named for the water it drips in humid conditions. Although Alocasia macrorrhiza is not difficult to cultivate, it can still get sick. Generally, the diseases of Alocasia macrorrhiza mainly show on the leaves, and there are two types: leaf spot disease and anthracnose.
Alocasia macrorrhiza (details)
1. Leaf spot disease can be treated by spraying the leaf surface with an 800-fold dilution of chlorothalonil or carbendazim, for 2-3 consecutive applications, once every 7 days. Anthracnose requires spraying the leaf surface with a 500-fold dilution of 75% thiophanate-methyl, once every 7 days, for 2-3 consecutive applications, which can basically bring it under control. Because Alocasia macrorrhiza is a foliage plant, once the leaves become diseased, it will inevitably affect its ornamental effect, so prevention should be the priority.
2. It shows on the stem. There is a type of fusarium wilt caused by bacterial infection. This disease is not easy to detect in its early stages, and once discovered it will already be very serious. If you find the stem leaning to one side, or there is a wilting spot, then it has definitely developed fusarium wilt. You can use a small knife to cut out the diseased part; the boundary between the diseased part and the healthy part is very obvious, and generally it can be broken off by hand. If the diseased part is less than one third of the stem, you can apply a layer of chlorothalonil solution to the healthy part and keep it dry, then apply another layer after ten days, and after 20 days it can basically heal.
Alocasia macrorrhiza Alocasia macrorrhiza Illustrated Guide: How to Grow Alocasia macrorrhiza / How to Propagate Alocasia macrorrhiza
Alocasia macrorrhiza ProfileAlocasia macrorrhiza Alocasia macrorrhiza
Aliases: giant taro, langdu (underground stem), tianyu, guanyin lotus, xiutiancao, gehexian
Classification: perennial herbaceous flowering plant
Family and genus: Plantae, Angiosperms, Monocots, Alismatales, Araceae, Alocasia
Full bloom period: winter and spring
Alocasia macrorrhiza (formerly known as giant taro or gutian), scientific name: Alocasia macrorrhizos, Araceae, Alocasia genus, also known as Buddha's hand lotus, called gutian in the Taiwan region of China, native to South America, a common ornamental plant in tropical and subtropical regions, commonly known as hen yutou, langdu (Guangdong), wild taro, mountain taro, giant taro, big worm taro, tianyu, tianmeng, etc., and when used as an ornamental plant it is called Alocasia macrorrhiza. Perennial evergreen herbaceous plant, with medicinal value; the corm and leaves can be used medicinally; its leaf sap is poisonous when ingested, and the rhizome is toxic. Under conditions of warm and humid air and sufficient soil moisture, it will drip water from the leaf tips...
Alocasia macrorrhiza Cultivation Methods and Precautions Introduction to Alocasia macrorrhiza
Alocasia macrorrhiza (formerly known as giant taro or gutian), scientific name: Alocasia macrorrhizos, Araceae, Alocasia genus, also known as Buddha's hand lotus, called gutian in the Taiwan region of China, native to South America, a common ornamental plant in tropical and subtropical regions, commonly known as hen yutou, langdu (Guangdong), wild taro, mountain taro, giant taro, big worm taro, tianyu, tianmeng, etc., and when used as an ornamental plant it is called Alocasia macrorrhiza. Perennial evergreen herbaceous plant, with medicinal value; the corm and leaves can be used medicinally; its leaf sap is poisonous when ingested, and the rhizome is toxic. Under conditions of warm and humid air and sufficient soil moisture, it will drip water downward from the leaf tips or leaf edges, and its flowers resemble Guanyin, hence the name Alocasia macrorrhiza.
Morphological Characteristics of Alocasia macrorrhiza
Alocasia macrorrhiza is a perennial upright herb, with plants reaching up to 2 m tall, with a fleshy rhizome underground, long petioles, broad leaf sheaths, large leaves, shield-shaped broad arrow-shaped, clustered at the top of the stem, pointed at the tip, with slightly wavy edges, and obvious main veins. The spathe is yellow-green, with a spadix.
Appearance
The aboveground stem of Alocasia macrorrhiza is thick and robust, sometimes up to 2-3 m tall, and the whole plant can reach up to 5 m. The creeping rhizome is 5-8 cm thick, cylindrical, jointed, often producing adventitious buds. Leaves are mostly spirally arranged; the petiole is thick and large, up to 1.5 m long, with the lower 1/2 having a sheath, and the base together with the sheath is 5-10 cm wide; the leaf blade is leathery, slightly shiny on the surface, green, lighter on the underside, extremely broad, arrow-shaped ovate, with shallowly wavy edges, 50-90 cm long and 40-80 cm wide; the anterior lobe is broadly ovate, with an acuminate apex, its length and width nearly equal, and the posterior lobe is semi-ovate; about 1/3 the length of the anterior lobe, with a shorter basal union, the sinus is rounded, and the posterior basal veins form right angles or acute angles with each other; the anterior lobe has 6-10 pairs of primary lateral veins, slightly broad.
The peduncles of Alocasia macrorrhiza are 2-3 in a cluster, cylindrical, each covered by a bract leaf (scale leaf) 50 cm long and about 8 cm wide, the latter lanceolate, green; the peduncle is (12-)50-60 cm long, pale green. The tube of the spathe is rolled into an elongated oval or ovate shape, white-green, 3-5 cm long, 4 cm thick; the limb is white-green, yellow-green, later turning white, boat-shaped, oblong, with a slightly protruding tip, slightly curved downward, (10-)20-30 cm long, (4-)5-8 cm wide when spread out.
Spadix morphology and fragrance:The female inflorescence is cylindrical, (2-)3-4 cm long; the sterile male inflorescence is (2.5-)5-6 cm long, gradually narrowing and transitioning into the fertile male inflorescence, the latter 3-7 cm long; the appendix is conical, cream-yellow, thicker at the base, 3-5.5 cm long, 1-2 cm thick, blunt at the tip, embedded with irregular groove lines.
Female flowers:The ovary is prismatic, gradually narrowing at the tip into an obvious style, the stigma is disc-shaped, the ovules are ovate, with a basal placenta. Sterile male flowers are flat, hexagonal at the top. Berries are bright red, short ovate, about 1 cm long, 5-9 mm in diameter. The flowering period is April-July, and it can also bloom under warm and humid conditions.
Ecological Habits of Alocasia macrorrhiza
If the air humidity is too low, the water that comes out will immediately evaporate, so dripping generally occurs more in the morning, known as the "guttation" phenomenon (Alocasia macrorrhiza is giant taro). The flowers bloom like a spathe, belonging to the "spadix inflorescence." It is an ornamental flowering plant that likes warmth, humidity, and sufficient sunlight. It generally blooms in winter and spring, with the dormant flowering period from November to May or June of the following year, and the peak flowering period from February to April.
1、The growth temperature is 20-30°C, and it can tolerate a minimum low temperature of 8°C. In summer high temperatures, as long as the soil is kept moist, water is sprayed frequently, and shade is provided, it can still grow normally. In winter, the room temperature must not be lower than 5°C. Alocasia macrorrhiza is an understory plant of tropical rainforests, so its growth requires high humidity, and scattered light is best.
2、As a shade-tolerant plant that likes a semi-shaded environment, it should be placed in an environment that is both shaded and ventilated.
3、It especially likes moisture. During the growing season, not only must the potting soil be moist, but the air humidity must also be no lower than 60%. In summer high temperatures, spraying water should be strengthened to create a relatively cool and humid environment for it. If placed in an indoor air-conditioned hall, it is necessary both to keep the potting soil moist and to spray the leaf surface from time to time. If the winter room temperature cannot reach 15°C, watering should be controlled, otherwise it is easy to cause root rot in the plant. Under normal circumstances, spraying warm water once a week can keep its leaves dark green.
4、It can be cultivated with nutrient soil mixed from leaf mold, peat soil, river sand, and a small amount of thoroughly decomposed cake fertilizer. Alternatively, it can be hydroponically grown, but care should be taken to prevent root rot and to add nutrient solution. Usually, repot once every spring, and loosen the soil once a month to keep the potting soil in a well-aerated state.
5、It relatively likes fertilizer. From March to October, apply liquid fertilizer once every half month, and the proportion of nitrogen can be appropriately increased. It is even better if a little ferrous sulfate can be added; this way the leaves will grow as large as lotus leaves and be smooth and attractive. Fertilization should be stopped when the temperature is below 15°C.
6、Because Alocasia macrorrhiza is a foliage plant, under improper planting and care, the largest leaves may turn yellow and dry up. At this time, they should be cut off together with the stem using a knife, otherwise it will affect the growth and ornamental value of the other leaves.
Cultivation Techniques for Alocasia macrorrhiza
1. Temperature should be suitable; 2. Light should be appropriate; 3. Fertilization should be proper; 4. Watering should be reasonable; 5. Wintering should be protected; 6. Pests and diseases should be controlled; 7. Growth should be controlled;
Production standards:20 cm pot: height 20-30 cm, crown width about 25 cm, number of leaves 6-7 per plant, 4 months. Substrate preparation: cultivate with nutrient soil mixed from loose domestic peat with good drainage and aeration, 2:2:1 pond mud, peat soil, and coarse sand mixed soil plus a small amount of thoroughly decomposed cake fertilizer. Add water to the peat and mix well, (standard for adding water: after adding water and mixing well, tightly squeeze a handful of peat, and water seeps out from between the fingers), then plant in cups.
Potting:For reused old pots, they must be soaked in a 2000-fold dilution of potassium permanganate for more than half an hour, then rinsed with clean water and dried for later use. Large potted plants are generally planted in 20 cm specification pots. When planting, first place about 4 cm of substrate at the bottom of the cup, then move the screened seedlings into the cup. Small seedlings should not be planted too deep, and it is appropriate to keep them level with the base of the plant; the substrate should be moderately firm, filled to 8/10 of the cup, 2-3 plants per pot.
Hydroponic method
For hydroponic Alocasia macrorrhiza, the root-washing method can be used to convert soil-grown plants into hydroponic plants. When washing the roots, wash carefully and try not to damage the tubers and root system. At the same time, cut off rotten roots and aged root systems. If the tuber has no roots, first place it in a shaded place to dry for 2-3 days, and after the wounds are dry, soak it in water. After 2-3 days, new roots can be seen emerging.
In the early stage of hydroponics, change the water once every 2-3 days, and the water depth should preferably submerge 2/3 of the root system. After a week, new roots can grow. After 3 weeks, once the hydroponic plant has adapted to the hydroponic environment, switch to nutrient solution culture. After that, change the nutrient solution about once a month.
Because the stem tissue of Alocasia macrorrhiza is relatively loose, poor water quality can easily cause pollution and lead to root rot and stem rot. Therefore, keep the bottle water clean, and at the same time, when changing the water or nutrient solution, clean the mucus on the tubers and roots, and cut off rotten roots.
Alocasia macrorrhiza is a very common home-grown green potted plant, but because it is a tropical plant, it generally does not bloom in the north. However, if the temperature and other conditions at home are suitable, it will also bloom.
It does not have high requirements for soil, but it grows best in sandy loam or humus loam with good drainage and organic matter. Because Alocasia macrorrhiza naturally likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments and is not cold-tolerant, the potting soil must be kept moist during the growing season. But it can also tolerate a little drought, so do not mistreat it too much.
In summer, the flower pot should be placed in a semi-shaded and ventilated place, and water should be sprayed frequently around it and on the leaf surface to increase air humidity, lower leaf temperature, and keep the leaves clean.
Because Alocasia macrorrhiza grows very fast, it relatively likes fertilizer. Apply a nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium compound fertilizer 1-2 times a month (the proportion of nitrogen can be appropriately higher). If a little ferrous sulfate can be applied, the leaves will be larger and greener. Long-term lack of fertilizer can easily cause the lower part of the Alocasia macrorrhiza stem to become bare and empty, affecting its ornamental value. When the temperature drops and it enters the dormant period, fertilization can be reduced or stopped.
If you want the Alocasia macrorrhiza grown indoors to be small and exquisite, then simply wait until its seedlings grow to about one chi and are suitable for home placement, then immediately spray the whole plant with a 2% paclobutrazol solution. After that, the stems and leaves that grow again will be no more than 40 cm tall, and the leaves will be thick and fleshy, with high ornamental value. Spraying once about every six months can produce a good height-control effect. The sap in the leaves of Alocasia macrorrhiza can cause skin itching after human contact, so be careful when touching it.
Temperature:Alocasia macrorrhiza can only grow well in an environment not lower than 18°C. If the temperature is lower than 18°C, Alocasia macrorrhiza will enter a dormant state and stop growing. Special attention should be paid to indoor ornamental cultivation.
Fertilization:Alocasia macrorrhiza likes fertilizer, and it should be fertilized every month.
Watering:Alocasia macrorrhiza needs more watering in summer, but not excessively. It is suitable to alternate between dry and wet, and there must be no standing water in the soil, otherwise the tubers will rot. In winter it goes dormant, so water less and stop fertilizing.
Sunlight:Alocasia macrorrhiza likes shade, so do not let direct sunlight hit it. If Alocasia macrorrhiza becomes "wilted," it is mainly due to insufficient fertilization, so pay attention to topdressing.
Cultivation Methods for Alocasia macrorrhiza
Every summer and autumn, the tubers of giant taro will sprout small giant taro with leaves, which can be divided along with repotting and soil changing. After fruiting in autumn, collect the orange-red seeds and sow them immediately after collection, or dry and store them, then sow after spring of the following year.
Propagation Methods for Alocasia macrorrhiza
This is for perennial old plants, and stem cuttings can be used for propagation in combination with plant renewal. The advantage of cutting the stem is that because the plant loses its apical growth dominance, nutrients accumulate at the base, prompting a large number of sprouts from the roots and stem base, which helps increase propagation speed and quantity.
First, cut the stem at about 5 cm from the soil surface at the base of the plant body;
Second, the cut old stem can be cut into branches about 15 cm long, placed in a shaded place to air-dry for half a day, and then inserted into sandy loam soil for cultivation. Especially for the section at the top that is still growing, after cutting off all formed leaves, directly pot it as a single plant. Cutting and cultivation proceed simultaneously. After two months of cultivation, it becomes a formed plant with large leaves, compact branching, and a short, sturdy, vigorous appearance. Placed indoors, it has a touch of elegance.
Stem-cutting propagation of Alocasia macrorrhiza is suitable in spring, summer, and autumn.
During the cutting period, keep the substrate (6 parts sand : 4 parts garden soil) moist, and at the same time increase air humidity. After about 7-10 days, many sturdy roots will grow.
During the cultivation of old plants, because the environment is shaded and humid, or because the leaf surface is sprayed morning and evening every day in summer and autumn, a few new plants occasionally sprout on the old stem (especially on the stem base left after stem cutting), and many aerial roots adhere to it. They can be broken off from the junction between the daughter plant and the mother plant and potted for planting.
Disease Control of Alocasia macrorrhiza I. Precautions
The white sap in the stem of Alocasia macrorrhiza is toxic. Accidental contact with or ingestion of its sap will cause discomfort in the throat and mouth, and in severe cases can also cause suffocation and lead to death from cardiac paralysis. Skin contact with its sap can cause itching or strong irritation, and eye contact with the sap can cause severe conjunctivitis, or even blindness. Therefore, contact with Alocasia macrorrhiza should be minimized, and families with children had best not grow it. However, Alocasia macrorrhiza is not a carcinogenic plant.
II. Winter Care
Alocasia macrorrhiza likes warm, humid, and slightly shaded environments, but during the flowering period it needs sufficient sunlight, otherwise the spathe will be greenish, affecting quality. It must be ensured 3-5 hours of light per day, otherwise the petioles will elongate and affect ornamental value. Alocasia macrorrhiza is not strongly cold-tolerant, and should be moved into a greenhouse in mid-October. In summer, under shaded conditions, water should be sprayed frequently to cool and moisturize.
Alocasia macrorrhiza likes moist, fertile soil, that is, what is commonly called "heavy fertilizer and heavy water," and should be watered more during the growing period. For topdressing, liquid fertilizers such as decomposed bean cake water can be applied alternately with chemical fertilizers (compound fertilizer or diammonium phosphate), once every 2 weeks. When applying liquid fertilizer, never pour the fertilizer water into the leaf sheaths to avoid rot.
Use of ferrous sulfate: In potted Alocasia macrorrhiza, topdressing with ferrous sulfate can make the leaves of Alocasia macrorrhiza larger, thicker, and greener, smooth and glossy, and the petioles are not easy to elongate, thereby ensuring the leaves' good appearance. At the same time, it can promote flower bud formation and prolong the flowering period. The specific method is: dilute ferrous sulfate into a 2% solution, apply it once every month, and water thoroughly each time.
III. Control Measures
The diseases of Alocasia macrorrhiza show on the leaves, and there are generally two types, one is leaf spot disease, and the other is anthracnose. Leaf spot disease can be treated by spraying the leaf surface with an 800-fold dilution of chlorothalonil or carbendazim, for 2-3 consecutive applications, once every 7 days. Anthracnose requires spraying the leaf surface with a 500-fold dilution of 75% thiophanate-methyl.
Spray once every 7 days, for 2-3 consecutive applications, which can basically bring it under control. Because Alocasia macrorrhiza is a foliage plant, once the leaves become diseased, it will inevitably affect its ornamental effect, so prevention should be the priority.
It shows on the stem. There is a type of fusarium wilt caused by bacterial infection. This disease is not easy to detect in its early stages, and once discovered it will already be very serious. If you find the stem leaning to one side, or there is a wilting spot, then it has definitely developed fusarium wilt. You can use a small knife to cut out the diseased part; the boundary between the diseased part and the healthy part is very obvious, and generally it can be broken off by hand. If the diseased part is less than one third of the stem, you can apply a layer of chlorothalonil solution to the healthy part and keep it dry, then apply another layer after ten days, and after 20 days it can basically heal.
The most serious pest of Alocasia macrorrhiza is mites, namely what is commonly called red spider mites. Red spider mites generally live on the underside of leaves. They not only suck the nutrients from the leaves, but also spread various viruses, seriously affecting plant growth. Therefore, frequent inspections must be carried out, and once discovered, treatment should be immediate. Medications such as mite clear, saomant clean, and imidacloprid can be used for treatment.
1. Preventing yellowing leaves
Alocasia macrorrhiza is native to the humid tropical rainforests of Southeast Asia. It likes scattered light and does not like direct sunlight. In spring and autumn, place it in a semi-shaded, semi-sunny shaded spot; in summer, place it in a shaded spot; in winter, move it indoors. If the sunlight is too strong, the leaves will suffer sunburn and turn yellow. However, "all things grow relying on sunlight." If it is placed in the living room, bedroom, and other places for a long time, due to insufficient light or no light, it will affect plant growth and morphogenesis. Under such conditions, the plant's internodes become especially long, the leaves are underdeveloped and small, lacking chlorophyll and appearing yellow; in addition, Alocasia macrorrhiza likes high temperature and high humidity. Appropriately applying more fertilizer and paying attention to more watering can increase its resistance to the environment and can also keep the leaves relatively green. Keep the potting soil moist for Alocasia macrorrhiza; you can expose a little of the roots, water when the potting soil becomes dry, and water thoroughly each time. If leaves have turned yellow, cut them off at the root, and be careful not to damage other leaf stems.
2. Treating root rot
Alocasia macrorrhiza does not have high requirements for potting soil, but when the soil's air permeability is poor, it is very easy to cause root rot, so choose soil with good drainage, fertility, and slight acidity.
Treatment method: Keep the bottle water clean, combine with changing the water or nutrient solution, and clean the mucus on the tubers and roots, and cut off rotten roots
Variety Classification of Alocasia macrorrhiza
Alocasia macrorrhiza, Angiosperms, Alismatales, Araceae, Alocasia genus. Scientific name giant taro, anciently called "guanyin lotus" and "xiutiancao," a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant with medicinal value.
Distribution Regions of Alocasia macrorrhiza Domestic Distribution
In China, Alocasia macrorrhiza is abundantly produced in south-central, western to southeastern Yunnan Province and southern Sichuan, in tropical rainforests and wild banana forests at altitudes of 200-1100 m. It is also found in Sichuan, Guizhou, Hunan, Jiangxi, Guangxi, Guangdong and coastal islands, Fujian, Taiwan, and other places.
Overseas Distribution
Overseas, Alocasia macrorrhiza is native to South America, and abroad it is distributed in Bangladesh, northeastern India (Khasi Hills), Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand to the Philippines.
Medicinal or Dietary Value of Alocasia macrorrhiza
The medical information and health dietary information on Huahua Network are for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problems should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and treatment for any disease should follow a doctor's advice.
Ultimate flower-protecting mission: Love yourself, start from reality, and strictly follow a doctor's advice. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, and do not give up hope. Face it bravely, use love to warm the silent world, and use your heart to care for the flower field within.
The dried rhizome is elliptical, long elliptical, or cylindrical, varying in size, with the long ones reaching 90 cm, and 3-6 cm in diameter or thicker. Sometimes remnants of cork and ring-shaped nodes and circular root scars can be seen. The texture is solid, the cross-section is white and powdery, the vascular bundles are scattered as pale yellow dots, and the endodermal ring is clear. The odor is slight, the taste is bland, and chewing it causes numbness. It is mainly produced in Guangdong, Guangxi, Sichuan, and other places. In addition, in the Guangdong region, this product is customarily used as langdu. It can be collected throughout the year. During processing, pad the hands with cloth or paper to avoid poisoning, peel off the outer skin with a small knife, slice, soak in clean water for 6-7 days, change the water multiple times, take it out and dry it in the sun or use it fresh.
I. Chemical Composition
The corm contains 17.4% moisture, 4.11% crude protein, 0.84% crude fat, 4.99% crude fiber, 3.76% ash, and 68.9% nitrogen-free extract.
It also contains taro alkaloid, which is toxic. It contains vitamin B1 (thiamin), vitamin B2 (riboflavin), nicotinic acid, ascorbic acid, dehydroascorbic acid, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, β-sitosterol, fucosterol, carotene, calcium oxalate, trigalactosyl diglycerides, tetragalactosyl diglycerides, neutral lipids, glycolipids, phospholipids, linoleic acid, palmitic acid, linolenic acid, oleic acid.
II. Value in Traditional Chinese Medicine 1. Nature and Flavor
Nature and flavor: pungent in taste; cold in nature; toxic.
Meridian entry: heart meridian; liver meridian; gallbladder meridian; large intestine meridian.
Functions: clear heat and detoxify; move qi and relieve pain; dissipate nodules and reduce swelling.
① "Compendium of Materia Medica": pungent, highly toxic.
② "Guangxi Traditional Chinese Medicine Journal": bland in taste, cold in nature, highly toxic.
③ "Sichuan Traditional Chinese Medicine Journal": warm in nature, pungent in taste, toxic.
2. Functions and Indications
Treats miasmic malaria, acute vomiting and diarrhea, typhoid fever, rheumatic pain, hernia, red and white leukorrhea, carbuncles and toxic swellings, atrophic rhinitis, scrofula, ding sores, scabies, and snake and dog bites.
① "Compendium of Materia Medica": treats malarial miasma, toxic swelling, and wind leprosy.
② "Classified Materia Medica": treats all malignant sores and toxic swellings; grind into powder and apply with wine.
③ "Tianbao Materia Medica": apply to ding sores and scabies.
④ "Guangxi Traditional Chinese Medicine Journal": treats pulmonary tuberculosis, colic, febrile diseases, etc.
⑤ "Sichuan Traditional Chinese Medicine Journal": treats internal and external hemorrhoids.
3. Usage and Dosage
Internal use: decoct in water (long simmer), 1-3 qian (fresh: 0.5-1 liang, sliced and stir-fried with rice until the rice is scorched, then add water and cook until the rice is soft, remove the residue).
External use: roast and apply, heat and rub, or pound and apply.
4. Suitability and Contraindications
Not suitable for eating raw.
Otherwise, poisoning can cause swelling of the mouth and tongue, and even death by suffocation.
Caution: prevent accidental ingestion by children.
Those with a weak constitution should take it with caution.
Yao Kecheng, "Shiwu Bencao" (Materia Medica of Foods): accidental ingestion can cause a person to faint.
The flower language of Alocasia macrorrhizos (giant taro)
Like-mindedness, sincerity, interest, and inner elegance.
Pictures of Alocasia macrorrhizos (giant taro)