How to care for orchids in spring? Master these care essentials

What people usually call spring generally refers to the period from the Beginning of Spring to Grain Rain. From the habits of orchids, during this time, Cymbidium kanran and Cymbidium sinense are in the late flowering stage, Cymbidium goeringii is in full bloom, and Cymbidium faberi is at the beginning of its flowering stage; all kinds of orchids have entered a new growth period. For spring care of orchids, the following points need attention:

Light and temperature Although orchids are semi-shade plants, the soft sunlight of spring is very beneficial and necessary for the growth and development of orchids. Whether the orchid plants are cultivated indoors or outdoors, the pots should be moved to a sunny place as much as possible to receive full light. If the light in the orchid pot area or orchid room is insufficient, artificial light can be used to supplement the light source. On clear and warm days, the orchid pots can also be moved outdoors to a wind-sheltered, sunny spot to receive sunlight, which both enables photosynthesis and raises the temperature for the orchid plants. However, the time must be controlled between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., and especially one must not be careless and leave them outdoors overnight, where they may suffer frost and cold wind. Variegated-leaf, crystal-art, and pattern-art orchids can only receive short periods of light to prevent leaf variegation from degenerating. In early spring, the temperature in the orchid shed or orchid room is best kept above 5°C; for Cymbidium goeringii with buds about to open, 10°C-15°C is suitable. If wind and snow, overcast rain, or cold waves occur occasionally, doors and windows should be tightly closed to prevent cold wind from invading. If freezing occurs outdoors and the room temperature drops below 5°C, measures should be taken to raise the temperature so that the room temperature remains above 0°C. For orchid plants overwintering outdoors or moved out of the room in early spring, double-layer plastic film must be added on rainy and snowy days and at night to avoid frost damage.

Watering and fertilizing Just as spring begins, the temperature is still very low, some varieties are still in the dormant period, and water evaporation is slow; the water requirement is very small, so generally water an appropriate amount only after the surface of the growing medium looks dry. For Cymbidium goeringii about to open and Cymbidium faberi budding, watering should be more frequent, but only to the extent that the growing medium is moist. After that, as the temperature gradually rises and new roots and new shoots sprout, the frequency and amount of watering should increase accordingly, but the potting soil must not be too wet, otherwise it easily causes root rot and shoot rot. When the temperature rises above 20°C or the weather is dry, the orchid plants can be sprinkled or sprayed with water to maintain moisture, keeping the relative air humidity between 30%-50%. When the temperature is below 15°C in the early period, except for applying phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to Cymbidium goeringii and fertilizing Cymbidium faberi in the middle period to promote flowering, other orchid species should not be fertilized. When the temperature is 15°C-20°C, fertilizer can be applied across the board, but the principle of "light fertilizer, frequent application" must be adhered to, mainly nitrogen fertilizer, with nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium used together, generally once every half month; 0.12 phosphoric acid: potassium dihydrogen phosphate can also be used for foliar spraying to promote root and shoot growth, cultivate strong plants, and enhance disease resistance.

Moving outdoors and frost protection The time for moving orchids outdoors should be determined according to the local temperature. Because the temperature difference between southern and northern China is relatively large, the time for moving them outdoors cannot be generalized; usually the south moves them out first and the north later. The orchid-growing proverb "do not move out in spring" is completely in line with the climate characteristics of the north. The specific time should be controlled between Qingming and Grain Rain, or when the temperature stabilizes above 20°C. Moving them outdoors too early makes them prone to frost damage, while too late affects growth. One or two days before moving them outdoors, the doors and windows of the orchid shed or orchid room must be opened to allow ventilation and air exchange, so they gradually adapt to the outdoor climate environment. However, because spring weather is changeable and temperature fluctuations are relatively large, after orchids are moved outdoors, attention should still be paid to cold protection and warmth. Be sure to watch the local weather forecast. In case of a late spring cold snap, continuous overcast rain, flying snow, or frost, frost protection measures should be taken in time, either by covering with plastic film or moving them indoors, to avoid serious losses.

Repotting and division The repotting time for orchids depends on the size of the orchid pot, the number of plants, and the strength of growth. Generally, large pots with strong seedlings are repotted once every 2 years, medium seedlings and diseased or weak seedlings once every 3 years, and tall small pots with strong seedlings once every year. When repotting, take the orchid plant out of the pot, shake off the soil, wash the orchid roots and let them dry, then soak them in a 0.12 potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes to sterilize and disinfect. It is best to replace the growing medium with new material at the same time and replant in the pot. According to the requirement of dividing spring-flowering orchids after autumn and summer-autumn-flowering orchids in spring, while repotting, divide Cymbidium faberi and Cymbidium ensifolium that should be divided. Before division, watering should be withheld so that the potting soil is slightly dry and the root system becomes soft. After lifting the seedlings, cut off rotten roots and old leaves. When the roots turn white, cut or pull them apart from the wider place between the pseudobulbs; each cluster preferably has new shoots or latent buds. For production purposes, they can be divided more, even into single plants; for ornamental purposes, 5-6 plants are divided into 1 cluster, which makes it easy to sprout and bloom. The cut wounds need to be smeared with plant ash or sulfur powder, and after they dry slightly, pot them. Water must be applied from the edge of the pot or by the soaking-pot method until the growing medium on the pot surface is moist. Place the orchid pot first in a shaded place or a place with scattered light, spray water frequently to maintain moisture, and after half a month move it to a sunny place for routine care.

Disease prevention and pest control Spring weather is warm, which is the season when pathogens harmful to orchids breed and spread, and it is also a great time to sterilize and prevent disease at the orchid-growing site. First, do a good job in the cleaning and hygiene of the orchid-growing site, pay attention to ventilation and light transmission, strengthen scientific management, enhance the immune capacity of orchid plants, and prevent or reduce the occurrence of diseases. Second, use drugs for disinfection and sterilization. Commonly used fungicides include thiophanate, carbendazim, zineb, lime sulfur mixture, Bordeaux mixture, etc. Choose any one or mix two, and spray the front and back of orchid leaves, pseudobulbs, and the growing medium at the root zone; generally spray once every 15-20 days, 3 times in succession, and good results can be achieved. Once disease occurs, treat according to the disease to control the disease situation. If certain pests are found, use pesticides according to the pest and eliminate them thoroughly in time.

Spring care essentials for potted flowers

Spring care essentials for potted flowers

In early spring, the temperature difference between morning and evening is very large. Sometimes the nighttime temperature is below zero, and sometimes there is late frost or a cold wave. At this time, keeping the potting soil dry and doing a good job in frost protection is still the key. It is best not to ventilate for a long time, and even more, do not place the plants in a place with air convection. Therefore, potted flowers should be moved outdoors slightly later in spring and not too early; it is better to be slow than urgent. Generally, about 10 days before moving them outdoors, adopt the method of opening windows for ventilation so that they gradually adapt to the outside temperature; they can be moved out in the morning and brought in in the afternoon; moved out on cloudy days and not moved out on windy days.

Repotting For potted flowers with sap beginning to move, such as Serissa japonica, pomegranate, and Chinese rose, which have relatively strong cold resistance, if they have been planted for several years and the pot has become too small, repotting and soil changing should be carried out at this time. The potting soil should have a certain amount of mountain soil, and the rest can use humus soil. For flowering trees or fruit-viewing trees, it should be done after the flowers fade and the fruit falls, such as kumquat, camellia, and rhododendron. For semi-dormant flowering trees, such as large-leaf gardenia and spider plant, repotting can be done around Qingming. For cold-sensitive flowering trees such as Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine, epiphyllum, and Schlumbergera, as well as most foliage plants such as rubber tree and money tree, continue cold protection and warmth, and repot and change soil after Qingming.

Pruning According to the growth characteristics of different kinds of flowers, carry out branch pruning, root pruning, pinching, and leaf removal. For Chinese rose, hibiscus, poinsettia, and others that bloom on one-year-old branches, heavy pruning can be done, thinning out dead branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and overly dense branches that affect ventilation and light transmission. For rhododendron, camellia, winter jasmine, gardenia, and others that bloom on two-year-old branches, usually only diseased and disabled branches and overly dense branches need to be cut off.

Water and fertilizer management When fertilizing flowers in early spring, the principle of "light fertilizer, less application, gradually increase" should be mastered, and fully decomposed dilute cake fertilizer water should be applied, with the frequency going from less to more. Fertilizing in spring is best done on clear evenings.

Watering in early spring should also be done in appropriate amounts, following the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet, and not watering too much all at once. In late spring, the temperature is higher, the sunlight is stronger, and evaporation is greater, so watering should be more frequent and the amount should also be increased. In short, when watering potted flowers in spring, master the principle of not watering if not dry and watering thoroughly when watering, and strictly avoid water accumulation in the pot. Watering time is best before noon, and after each watering, loosen the soil in time.

Propagation Spring is the best period for cuttings, division, and sowing of potted flowers. For example, Chinese rose, geranium, winter jasmine, pomegranate, and others can have healthy branches cut for cuttings; orchids, asparagus fern, spider plant, and others can be propagated by division; herbaceous flowers such as mimosa, Impatiens balsamina, morning glory, Salvia splendens, Tagetes patula, marigold, and ornamental pepper can be propagated by broadcast sowing or dibbling.

Pest and disease control Spring is the season when hundreds of flowers bloom, but it is also the period when pests and diseases begin to multiply, so frequent inspection, early detection, early prevention, and early treatment are needed. Common pests in spring include various aphids, red spiders, whiteflies, scale insects, etc.; common diseases include powdery mildew, rust, black spot, and chlorosis. Cineraria, dahlia, Impatiens balsamina, and Chinese rose are prone to powdery mildew; Malus halliana, rose, peony, and bamboo are prone to rust; peach blossom, Chinese rose, and plum blossom are prone to aphid damage; camellia, pomegranate, rhododendron, Chinese rose, hibiscus, lilac, crabapple, and evergreen are prone to scale insect damage, so control should be carried out early.

(The author's workplace is the Hengshui City Landscape Management Bureau, Hebei Province)