Detailed Explanation of Key Orchid Care Techniques in Spring

In spring, watering management for orchids is very important. After orchids are brought out of the house, they should be given plenty of water. Rinse the orchids with clean water to remove waste gases and waste matter from within the plants and from the pots, keep them moist, and help the orchids quickly regain their vitality.

When the weather turns warm, it is exactly the time when new buds swell and emerge from the soil. At this time, because water in the pots evaporates quickly, water should be given in good time. When growing orchids in granular potting media, you can lean slightly toward keeping them moist. If using large granular potting media, water at noon, so that by evening the pots become moist, which benefits nighttime growth. If water management is done well, you can see the new shoots growing taller almost every day.

When orchids sprout and emerge from the soil in spring, proper application of fertilizer is also very important; one must not rush for quick results. Too many applications and too concentrated fertilizer water often harm orchids. Because orchids are now mostly grown using soilless granular potting media, it is very important to fertilize according to the potting medium. Orchid mud, pond mud, and charcoal soil themselves contain abundant nutrients. If it is new potting medium, then there is no need for much additional fertilizing within a year; once every half month to one month is enough. Both chemical fertilizers and organic fertilizers have very good fertilizing effects. When using them, it is best to keep them light and dilute. Choose an overcast day or evening to apply them, and do not let the fertilizer solution get on the orchids during fertilization.

In addition, fertilizer should also be applied according to the orchid's own growth condition. During the period of large seedlings and strong seedlings, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied frequently, once every three to five days. For orchids that are recovering their strength, the frequency should be appropriately reduced, from once every half month to once a week, depending on whether the orchids can absorb it. But for weak plants, rootless plants, and leafless pseudobulbs, they absolutely must be given only plain care and must not be given additional fertilizer; otherwise, haste makes waste and they suffer harm instead.

Key points for orchid care in spring

What people usually call spring generally refers to the period from the Beginning of Spring to Grain Rain. From the perspective of orchid habits, during this period, Cymbidium kanran and Cymbidium sinense are in the late flowering stage, Cymbidium goeringii is in full bloom, and Cymbidium faberi is at the beginning of its flowering stage; all kinds of orchids have entered a new growth period. For orchid care in spring, the following points need attention:

Light and temperature: Although orchids are semi-shade plants, the soft sunlight of spring is very beneficial and necessary for their growth and development. Whether orchid plants are cultivated indoors or outdoors, the orchid pots should as much as possible be moved to a sunny place to receive full light. If the light in the orchid pot area or orchid room is insufficient, artificial light can be used to supplement the light source. On clear and warm days, the orchid pots can also be moved outdoors to a wind-sheltered, sunny spot to receive sunlight, which both allows photosynthesis and raises the temperature for the orchid plants. But the time must be controlled between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., and especially one must not be careless and leave them outdoors overnight, where they may be hit by frost and cold wind. Striped-leaf varieties, crystal-leaf varieties, and patterned-leaf varieties can only receive short periods of light, to prevent leaf variegation from fading. In early spring, the temperature in the orchid shed or orchid room is best kept above 5°C; for Cymbidium goeringii with buds about to open, 10°C to 15°C is suitable. If wind and snow, continuous rain, or a cold wave occur occasionally, doors and windows should be tightly closed to prevent invasion by cold wind. If freezing occurs outdoors and the room temperature drops below 5°C, measures should be taken to raise the temperature so that the room temperature remains above 0°C. For orchid plants overwintered outdoors or brought out of the room in early spring, double-layer plastic film must be added during rainy and snowy days and at night to avoid frost damage.

Watering and fertilizing: Just as spring begins, the temperature is still very low, some varieties are still in dormancy, and water evaporation is slow; the water requirement is very small. Generally, when the surface of the potting medium is seen to be dry, water an appropriate amount again. For Cymbidium goeringii about to bloom and Cymbidium faberi in bud, watering should be more frequent, but only to the extent that the potting medium is moist. After that, as the temperature gradually rises and new roots and new buds sprout, the frequency and amount of watering should increase accordingly, but the potting soil must not be too wet, otherwise it easily causes root rot and bud rot. When the temperature rises above 20°C or the weather is dry, the orchid plants can be sprinkled or sprayed with water to maintain moisture, keeping the relative air humidity between 30% and 50%. In the early period when the temperature is below 15°C, except for applying phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to Cymbidium goeringii and fertilizing Cymbidium faberi in the middle period to force flowering, other orchid species should not be fertilized. When the temperature is 15°C to 20°C, fertilizer can be applied across the board, but the principle of "light fertilizer applied frequently" must be adhered to, mainly nitrogen fertilizer, with nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium used together, generally once every half month. A 0.12 monopotassium phosphate solution can also be used for foliar spraying to promote rooting and budding, cultivate strong plants, and enhance disease resistance.

Bringing out of the room and frost prevention: The time for bringing orchids out of the room should be determined according to local temperatures. Because the temperature difference between southern and northern China is relatively large, the time for bringing them out cannot be generalized; usually the south brings them out first and the north later. The orchid-growing proverb "do not bring them out in spring" is completely consistent with the climate characteristics of the north. The specific time should be controlled between Qingming and Grain Rain, or when the temperature stabilizes above 20°C. Bringing them out too early makes them vulnerable to frost damage, while too late affects growth. One or two days before bringing them out, the doors and windows of the orchid shed or orchid room must be opened to allow ventilation and air exchange, so they gradually adapt to the outdoor climate environment. However, because spring weather is changeable and temperatures fluctuate greatly, after orchids are brought out, attention must still be paid to cold protection and warmth. Be sure to watch the local weather forecast. In case of a late spring cold snap, continuous overcast rain, flying snow, or frost, timely frost prevention measures should be taken, either covering with plastic film or moving them indoors, to avoid serious losses.

Repotting and division: The repotting time for orchids depends on the size of the orchid pot, the number of plants, and the strength of growth. Generally, large pots with strong seedlings are repotted once every 2 years, medium seedlings and diseased or weak seedlings once every 3 years, and tall small pots with strong seedlings once every year. When repotting, take the orchid plant out of the pot, shake off the soil clean, wash the orchid roots and dry them, then soak them in a 0.12 potassium permanganate solution for 10 to 20 minutes for sterilization and disinfection. It is best to replace the potting medium with new medium at the same time and replant into the pot. According to the requirement of dividing spring-flowering orchids after autumn and summer-autumn-flowering orchids in spring, while repotting, divide the Cymbidium faberi and Cymbidium ensifolium that should be divided. Before division, water should be withheld so that the potting soil is slightly dry and the root system becomes soft. After lifting the plants, cut off rotten roots and old leaves. When the roots turn white, cut or pull them apart from the wider place between the pseudobulbs. Each cluster should preferably have new buds or dormant buds. For production purposes, they can be divided more, even into single plants; for ornamental purposes, 5 to 6 plants are divided into 1 cluster, which makes it easy to sprout and bloom. The cut wounds need to be smeared with plant ash or sulfur powder, and after they dry slightly, plant them into pots. Water must be applied from the edge of the pot or by the immersion method, until the surface potting medium is moist. First place the orchid pots in a shaded place or a place with scattered light, spray water frequently to maintain moisture, and after half a month move them to a sunny place for routine care.

Disease prevention and pest control: Spring weather is warm, which is the season when pathogens harmful to orchids breed and spread, and it is also a great time to sterilize and prevent disease at the orchid-growing site. First, do a good job of cleaning and hygiene at the orchid-growing site, pay attention to ventilation and light transmission, strengthen scientific management, enhance the immune capacity of orchid plants, and prevent or reduce the occurrence of diseases. Second, use drugs for disinfection and sterilization. Commonly used fungicides include thiophanate-methyl, carbendazim, zineb, lime sulfur mixture, Bordeaux mixture, and so on. Choose any one or mix two, and spray the front and back of orchid leaves, pseudobulbs, and the potting medium around the roots. Generally spray once every 15 to 20 days, 3 times in succession, and good results can be obtained. Once disease occurs, treat according to the disease to control its progression. If certain insect pests are found, use pesticides according to the pest and eliminate them thoroughly in good time.

Orchid care methods in spring | How to care for orchids in spring?

  When the spring breeze begins and the weather turns warm, it is exactly the time when new buds swell and emerge from the soil. At this time, because water in the potting soil evaporates quickly, water should be given in good time. When growing orchids in granular potting media, you can lean slightly toward keeping them moist. Spring is the golden time for orchids to sprout and grow, but in southern regions there is the "plum rain" season, when light rain falls almost every day; under 100% humidity and heat, bacteria take the opportunity to invade, and new buds rot. Therefore, during this period, white fiberglass is often used as a rain shelter, allowing the orchid pots to dry out before watering according to the situation. In northern regions, however, it is different; there is little rain in spring. If using large granular potting media, water at noon. In this way, by evening the pots become moist, which benefits nighttime growth. If water management is done well, you can see the new shoots growing taller almost every day.

  When orchids sprout and emerge from the soil in spring, proper application of fertilizer is also very important; one must not rush for quick results. Too many applications and too concentrated fertilizer water often harm orchids. Because modern orchid growing mostly uses soilless granular potting media, it is very important to fertilize according to the potting medium. Orchid mud, pond mud, and charcoal soil themselves contain abundant nutrients. If it is new potting medium, then there is no need for much additional fertilizing within a year; once every half month to one month is enough. Both chemical fertilizers and organic fertilizers have very good fertilizing effects. When using them, it is best to keep them light and dilute. Choose an overcast day or evening to apply them, and do not let the fertilizer solution get on the orchids during fertilization.

  In addition, fertilizer should also be applied according to the orchid's own growth condition. During the period of large seedlings and strong seedlings, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied frequently, once every three to five days. For orchids that are recovering their strength, the frequency should be appropriately reduced, from once every half month to once a week, depending on whether the orchids can absorb it. But for weak plants, rootless plants, and leafless pseudobulbs, they absolutely must be given only plain care and must not be given additional fertilizer; otherwise, haste makes waste and they suffer harm instead.

 If water and fertilizer are applied properly in spring, orchids will grow very well throughout the year.