What are the common propagation methods for Phalaenopsis?
There are mainly five propagation methods for Phalaenopsis
The main propagation methods for Phalaenopsis are five: seed sowing propagation, flower stalk bud induction propagation, crown-cutting bud induction propagation, stem-cutting propagation, and tissue culture.
1. Seed sowing propagation
This method can produce a large number of superior seedlings, and is not easily affected by viruses or other diseases; hybridization can also be used to breed newer, more unusual varieties with more flower colors and flower shapes.
1. Natural sowing method
Sow the seeds released from the already split seed capsule into the pot of the parent plant, because the growing medium of the parent plant may contain the symbiotic bacteria necessary for Phalaenopsis seed germination. The natural sowing method is simple and easy, requiring no complicated sterile procedures or operating tools, and is suitable for ordinary home Phalaenopsis growers, but the chance of success with this method is very small, so it is rarely used.
2. Aseptic sowing method
The method is to first wash the unopened mature seed capsule, then soak it in 75%-90% ethanol or chloroform for 2-3 seconds, then soak it in 5%-10% bleaching powder solution or 3% hydrogen peroxide for 5-20 minutes. Take out the seeds and soak them in the same disinfectant solution for 5-20 minutes, then remove the solution by filtering, take out the seeds, and use a fine needle to spread the seeds evenly on the surface of the prepared culture medium in a bottle. The culture conditions are a light intensity of 2000-3000 lux, 10-18 hours per day, and a temperature maintained at 20-26°C. After 9-10 months, when the young seedlings grow 2-3 leaves, they can be taken out of the bottle and planted in pots. This method is highly scientific work, generally carried out in a tissue culture laboratory, or in a large-scale, strictly managed tissue culture factory.
2. Flower stalk bud induction propagation
In many varieties of Phalaenopsis, after the flowers fade, rooted plantlets often grow from the internodes of the flower stalk; cutting them off and planting them separately can grow into a new Phalaenopsis. Artificial bud induction can be used to ensure that the flower stalk of Phalaenopsis produces stalk plantlets for propagation. The method is to first cut off the part of the flower stalk that has finished blooming, then carefully remove the bracts at the first to third internodes of the upper part of the flower stalk with a blade or sharp knife to expose the buds in the internodes; use a cotton swab to evenly apply bud-inducing agent or hormones such as indolebutyric acid to the exposed internode nodes; after treatment, place the orchid plant in a semi-shaded place with the temperature maintained at 25-28°C. After 2-3 weeks, the buds can be seen growing leaves, and after 3 months they grow into Phalaenopsis plantlets with 3-4 leaves and aerial roots; cut off the plantlets and pot them up, and they become a new orchid plant.
3. Crown-cutting bud induction propagation
After the growing point of an orchid plant is damaged by freezing injury, insect pests, diseases, or human factors, after a period of time, 1-2 new shoots will grow from the stem nodes near the base of the orchid plant. This characteristic can be used to propagate Phalaenopsis. The specific operation method is: pull out the highest central leaf at the top of the stem, taking care to damage the stem tip growing point so that it cannot grow upward; let the wound dry or apply fungicide to disinfect and sterilize it, and after a period of time 2-3 new shoots can grow from the stem nodes near the base; when the new shoots grow larger and roots grow from the base, they can be cut off and planted separately to become a new plant.
4. Stem-cutting propagation
The principle of stem-cutting propagation is to destroy the stem tip growing point to induce the growth of dormant buds. Although there are 1-3 dormant buds in the leaf axils of a Phalaenopsis plant, most of them cannot sprout into plants. After the plant continues to grow upward and the stem nodes become longer, cut off the upper part of the plant with roots using a sterilized sharp knife or scissors, plant it in a new pot to continue growing, and give the lower part with the rhizome proper water management; before long, 1-3 new shoots will sprout (depending on the characteristics of the plant itself and the management method). If the stem of the plant is relatively long, it can also be considered to cut it into multiple sections; as long as each section has 2-3 internodes or is more than 2-3 cm long and has more than one root, it may grow into a new plant, but if the rhizome of the plant has completely dried up and died, this method is ineffective.
5. Tissue culture method
Using tissue culture to propagate Phalaenopsis can obtain excellent genetic characteristics exactly the same as those of the mother plant. Phalaenopsis plantlets produced by this method are called mericlones or tissue-cultured plantlets. The plant tissue used for meristem culture (explant) can be the terminal bud (stem tip), stem segment (dormant bud), or young leaves or root tips, but the most common is the flower stalk of Phalaenopsis. This is because using the flower stalk as an explant not only does not damage the plant, but is also easy to induce. Older flower stalks or flower stalks that have already bloomed mainly use the stalk node buds, while for young flower stalks, in addition to the stalk node buds, the stalk internodes can also be used as culture material.
Propagation methods of Phalaenopsis
1. Phalaenopsis seed propagation method
Seed propagation is currently a commonly used method in commercial Phalaenopsis production. Seedlings from seed propagation are called seedling plants. Phalaenopsis must be hand-pollinated to obtain seeds, but its seeds are underdeveloped, have no endosperm, and only have a very thin seed coat, so sowing under natural conditions is not easy to succeed. In 1922, Knudson in the United States first invented the aseptic sowing technique for orchids, enabling orchids to obtain large numbers of plants through tissue culture aseptic sowing, greatly promoting orchid breeding, seedling production, and commercial cultivation.
Orchid aseptic sowing has 2 ways of plant germination. One is the protocorm method. At the beginning of seed germination, white spherical protocorms are formed. As the protocorms increase in size, hairy rhizoids appear on them, and then the protocorms turn green, but the protocorms do not elongate; shoots sprout from the top of the protocorms. Generally, protocorms can differentiate into plantlets. Epiphytic orchids germinate in this way; the seeds of Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Cymbidium all germinate by the protocorm method. The other is the rhizome method. When its seeds germinate, they also initially appear as white spheres, but soon elongate into long columnar shapes, forming rhizomes. Then clusters of root-hair-like rhizoids grow at intervals on the surface of the rhizome. On differentiation medium, seedlings can grow only from the terminal buds of the rhizome, but the differentiation rate is extremely low. Terrestrial orchids germinate in this way.
Phalaenopsis has the highest pollination success rate when pollinated 4-6 days after flowering. The temperature and light at the time of pollination have a relatively large influence on whether pollination succeeds. The pollen used for pollination must be bright yellow, sticky, loose and not caked, and it is best to use pollen from flowers that have just opened. If the pollen turns dark yellow to yellowish brown and does not scatter when pressed, pollination with such pollen usually will not succeed.
For successfully pollinated flowers, the seed capsule can be used for test-tube aseptic sowing after 3-4 months. Because there are many seeds in the capsule, 1 capsule can propagate thousands of plants. Therefore, commercial cultivation seeds generally mainly use the aseptic sowing method. Phalaenopsis seedling plants currently account for 60%-70% of all Phalaenopsis seedlings.
The operation steps are as follows: wipe and clean the mature Phalaenopsis seed capsule with 75% alcohol, disinfect with 0.1% HgCl2 for 8-10 minutes, rinse 5 times with sterile water, and blot dry. Use a blade to take out the dust-like seeds in the capsule and place them in a medium of Hyponex No. 1 (N-P-K: 7-9-16) + banana 50 g/L + milk protein 2 g/L + sucrose 20 g/L + agar 8 g/L. After sowing for 15 days, light green swollen embryos can be seen, and after 50-60 days protocorms of 1.5-2 mm are formed. Then transfer to Hyponex No. 1 or MS + BA 1 mg/L medium, and after 50-60 days they grow into plantlets with 2-3 leaves. Then transfer to Hyponex No. 1 rooting medium, and after about 60 days they grow into complete plantlets with a leaf spacing of 6-8 cm. Therefore, Phalaenopsis takes about 5-6 months from sowing to removal from the bottle.
2. Flower stalk bud induction propagation
Phalaenopsis belongs to monopodial orchids. Under normal circumstances, it has only one growing point in its lifetime, that is, only one main stem. However, in many varieties of Phalaenopsis, after the flowers fade, rooted plantlets often grow from the internodes of the flower stalk; cutting them off and planting them separately can grow into a new Phalaenopsis. This propagation method of Phalaenopsis is the simplest and easiest under ordinary home cultivation conditions, but not every orchid plant's flower stalk can naturally produce stalk plantlets. Artificial bud induction can ensure that the flower stalk of Phalaenopsis produces stalk plantlets.
The operating tools and chemicals for flower stalk bud induction mainly include: one blade or sharp knife, several cotton swabs, bud-inducing agent or indolebutyric acid or other growth hormones.
Operation method: first cut off the part of the flower stalk that has finished blooming, then carefully remove the bracts at the first to third internodes of the upper part of the flower stalk with a blade or sharp knife to expose the buds in the internodes; use a cotton swab to evenly apply bud-inducing agent or hormones such as indolebutyric acid to the exposed internode nodes; after treatment, place the orchid plant in a semi-shaded place with the temperature maintained at 25-28°C. After 2-3 weeks, the buds can be seen growing leaves, and after 3 months they grow into Phalaenopsis plantlets with 3-4 leaves and aerial roots; cut off the plantlets and pot them up, and they become a new orchid plant.
3. Crown-cutting bud induction propagation
During Phalaenopsis cultivation, we can find that after the growing point of an orchid plant is damaged by freezing injury, insect pests, diseases, or human factors, after a period of time, 1-2 new shoots will grow from the stem nodes near the base of the orchid plant. Using this characteristic, we can use the crown-cutting bud induction method to propagate Phalaenopsis, but the propagation coefficient of this method is not high. The specific operation method is: pull out the highest central leaf at the top of the stem, taking care to damage the stem tip growing point so that it cannot grow upward; let the wound dry or apply fungicide to disinfect and sterilize it, and after a period of time 2-3 new shoots can grow from the stem nodes near the base; when the new shoots grow larger and roots grow from the base, they can be cut off and planted separately to become a new plant.
4. Stem-cutting propagation
The principle of stem-cutting propagation is the same as that of crown-cutting bud induction propagation; it also destroys the stem tip growing point to induce the growth of dormant buds. Although there are 1-3 dormant buds in the leaf axils of a Phalaenopsis plant, most of them cannot sprout into plants. After the plant continues to grow upward and the stem nodes become longer, cut off the upper part of the plant with roots using a sterilized sharp knife or scissors, plant it in a new pot to continue growing, and give the lower part with the rhizome proper water management; before long, 1-3 new shoots will sprout (depending on the characteristics of the plant itself and the management method). If the stem of the plant is relatively long, it can also be considered to cut it into multiple sections; as long as each section has 2-3 internodes or is more than 2-3 cm long and has more than one root, it may grow into a new plant, but if the rhizome of the plant has completely dried up and died, this method is ineffective.
5. Tissue culture propagation
Tissue culture vegetative propagation is also called meristem propagation. Explants of Phalaenopsis such as stem tips, leaves, root tips, young flower stalks, flower stalk axillary buds, and flower stalk internodes can all be used for tissue culture vegetative propagation. However, the commonly used explants are mainly flower stalk axillary buds, flower stalk internodes, or leaves of test-tube plantlets.
Take the flower stalk of a Phalaenopsis that has finished blooming; several nodes at its base all have dormant axillary buds. After aseptic disinfection, cut 2 cm flower stalk segments with nodes and place them on MSBA 3-5 mg/L medium at 28°C; the rate of inducing clustered vegetative buds can reach more than 90%. After the clustered vegetative buds are induced, the flower stalk can be removed and placed on the same medium to induce protocorms, or the leaves of the vegetative buds can be cut and placed in Kyoto or MS medium + KT 10 mg/L + NAA 5 mg/L + 10% coconut milk (or apple juice) + sucrose 20 g/L for culture to induce protocorms.
After disinfecting the young flower stalk of Phalaenopsis (45 days after flower bud emergence), cut the flower stalk internodes diagonally into thin slices 1-1.5 mm thick and place them in VWBA 1-3 mg/L + sucrose 20 g/L medium for culture; the protocorm induction rate can reach 63%-77%.
Including seed propagation, flower stalk bud induction propagation, crown-cutting bud induction propagation, stem-cutting propagation, and tissue culture propagation, etc.
Phalaenopsis amabilis Phalaenopsis illustrated guide: how to grow Phalaenopsis / how to propagate Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis profilePhalaenopsis amabilis
Phalaenopsis cultivation methods and precautions Phalaenopsis introduction
Phalaenopsis was discovered in 1750. More than 70 native species have been discovered, most of which are produced in humid Asian regions. They are distributed in Taiwan, China, Thailand, the Philippines, Malaysia, Indonesia, and other places. Among them, Taiwan produces the most. The genus Phalaenopsis is a famous cut flower type. Phalaenopsis is a monopodial epiphytic orchid with a short stem, large leaves, and one to several arching flower stems. The flowers are large and named because the flower shape resembles a butterfly. Its flower posture is elegant and its colors are gorgeous. It is a treasure among tropical orchids and has the reputation of "queen of orchids."
Morphological characteristics of Phalaenopsis
There are about 100 species of Phalaenopsis, native to Eurasia, North Africa, North America, and Central America. Two very famous species: Platanthera chlorantha has white flowers and is relatively small; Platanthera hologlottis has large greenish-white flowers and a relatively large plant shape. Both have 5-15 flowers, fragrant, clustered into spike-like inflorescences!
The stem of Phalaenopsis is very short and often wrapped by leaf sheaths. The leaves are slightly fleshy, usually 3-4 or more, green on the front and also green on the back, elliptical, oblong, or sickle-shaped oblong, 10-20 cm long, 3-6 cm wide, with an acute or obtuse tip, a wedge-shaped or sometimes skewed base, and a short and wide sheath. The inflorescence is lateral at the base of the stem, up to 50 cm long, unbranched or sometimes branched; the inflorescence stalk is green, 4-5 mm thick, covered with several scale-like sheaths; the inflorescence axis is purple-green, more or less zigzag, usually with several flowers opening one by one from the base to the top; the floral bracts are ovate-triangular, 3-5 mm long; the pedicel together with the ovary is green, slender, 2.5-4.5 cm long; the flowers are white, beautiful, and long-lasting; the dorsal sepal is nearly elliptical, 2.5-3 cm long, 1.4-1.7 cm wide, with an obtuse tip, slightly narrowed at the base, and with reticulate veins; the lateral sepals are skewed ovate, 2.6-3.5 cm long, 1.4-2.2 cm wide, with an obtuse tip, narrowed at the base and adnate to the column foot, with reticulate veins; the petals are rhombic-circular, 2.7-3.4 cm long, 2.4-3.8 cm wide, with a rounded tip, narrowed at the base into a short claw, with reticulate veins; the lip is 3-lobed, with a claw about 7-9 mm long at the base; the lateral lobes are erect, obovate, 2 cm long, with a rounded or acute tip, narrowed at the base, with red spots or fine stripes, and with 1 yellow fleshy protuberance at the intersection between the two lateral lobes and the base of the mid-lobe; the mid-lobe is rhombic, 1.5-2.8 cm long, 1.4-1.7 cm wide, gradually narrowed at the tip and with 2 tendrils 8-18 mm long, wedge-shaped at the base; the column is stout, about 1 cm long, with a wide column foot; there are 2 pollinia, nearly spherical, each splitting into 2 unequal parts. Flowering period April-June!
The scientific name of Phalaenopsis means "orchid like a butterfly" according to the original Greek meaning. It can absorb nutrients from the air to survive and is classified as an aerial orchid, and can be said to be a large group among tropical orchids. Its plant is very peculiar: it has neither stolons nor pseudobulbs. Each plant grows only several broad leaves as thick as spoons, alternately stacked above the base. White thick aerial roots are exposed around the leaves, and some climb on the outer wall of the flower pot, full of natural wild charm. When the New Year season arrives, a flower stalk up to a full chi long emerges from the leaf axil, and then opens one after another. Each flower has 5 sepals, with a lip inserted in the middle. The flower colors are bright and dazzling, including pure white, goose yellow, crimson, as well as light purple, orange-red, and azure blue. Many varieties have two or three colors, some look as if embroidered with patterned stripes, and some look as if evenly sprayed with colored dots. Each stalk blooms seven or eight flowers, and some as many as twelve or thirteen, and can be enjoyed continuously for sixty or seventy days!
The genus Phalaenopsis is a famous cut flower type, with more than 50 species in the whole genus. Monopodial epiphytic orchid, short stem, large leaves, one to several arching flower stems, large flowers, named because the flower shape resembles a butterfly. Its flower posture is elegant and its colors are gorgeous. It is a treasure among tropical orchids and has the reputation of "queen of orchids"!
Phalaenopsis has a graceful flower posture and many elegant flower colors, and is named because its flower shape resembles a butterfly. It is widely cultivated in countries around the world. Although it belongs to aerial orchids, it has no pseudobulbs, only a very short stem at the base. The leaves are wide and thick, long elliptical, and can reach more than 50 cm. Some varieties have beautiful pale silver mottling on the leaves, with purple underneath. The flower stalk is drawn out from the leaf axil, slightly curved, of varying lengths, with several to hundreds of flowers, shaped like butterflies, with long elliptical sepals and a lip with a three-lobed tip. There are many flower colors, and it can bloom for more than a month. It is often used as a cut flower abroad and is a high-grade product among Western orchids. Most Phalaenopsis have no scent, and only a few have a scent; we call them fragrant Phalaenopsis. This kind of Phalaenopsis is very rare, but many people say after smelling it that it is a foul odor, and some people who work near the flowers are made dizzy by the smell!
Ecological habits of Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis likes high temperature, high humidity, and a ventilated environment; it is not tolerant of waterlogging, tolerant of semi-shade, averse to direct sunlight, averse to standing water, and afraid of cold. The suitable growth temperature is 22-28°C, and the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C!
Cultivation techniques of Phalaenopsis cultivation conditions
(1) Temperature
Phalaenopsis is a tropical plant, and the cultivation temperature should be maintained between 15-34°C. The appropriate temperatures are as follows: 26-27°C during the growth stage, 19-21°C during the flowering stage. In order to obtain more flower stalks, the temperature can be maintained at 18-20°C for a total of 4-8 weeks. When light is insufficient or the daytime temperature is too high, maintain 18°C to strengthen flower forcing (inducing flower buds). Because leaf growth must also be maintained during the flowering period, the low-temperature period should not be too long. When light is insufficient, if the temperature is above 23°C for more than 24 hours, it will lead to excessive vegetative growth and loss of flower buds.
(2) Light quantity
1. In the Netherlands
To obtain proper leaf and root development, sufficient light needs to be provided. Too much light causes leaf scorching. Too low a light quantity (below 100 W/m²) causes stagnation of plant growth, poor quality, improper flower bud development, and poor root development. The appropriate light quantity is 2002. In summer with strong sunlight (1400 W/m²), use 80%-85% shade netting.
2. In tropical regions
It is necessary to maintain 80%-90% shading capacity. Usually a fixed net providing 65% shade and another set of movable netting providing 65% shade are used. In areas with heavy rainstorms, plastic sheeting roofs should be used to reduce disease and reduce rain leaching of the medium. (Note: This paragraph is aimed at simple rain shelters in places such as Indonesia, and does not discuss subtropical greenhouses)
The appropriate light quantities are as follows:
Growth stage: 5000-8000 lux
Flowering stage: 8000-15000 lux
In areas with generally year-round sunlight, the light requirement can be increased by 20%. However, attention should be paid to the refraction of light so that all orchid leaves receive even light. At high light levels, relatively high humidity must be maintained.
(3) Artificial supplemental lighting
Artificial supplemental lighting benefits leaf temperature, microclimate, and orchid seedling growth, and can reduce plant losses. Its characteristics are as follows:
Plug tray seedling growth: promotes rapid growth and reduces orchid plant losses;
Growth stage: promotes rapid growth and better development;
Flowering stage: helps flower stalk and flower bud development, reduces flower bud loss, and increases quality.
In winter, Phalaenopsis requires at least 12-14 hours and 3500-4000 lux of light, so artificial light sources are suitable. Using excessive light on sunny days will cause leaves to turn red, thereby causing growth stagnation. In addition, orchid plants must maintain at least 8 hours of darkness to ensure carbon dioxide uptake.
(4) Carbon dioxide concentration
Phalaenopsis is a Crassulacean acid metabolism plant and absorbs carbon dioxide at night. The appropriate concentration is 600-800 ppm.
(5) Relative humidity
Because of its physiological structure, Phalaenopsis can protect itself from stress effects under low humidity, but in an overly wet environment, high temperature and high humidity often accompany disease. The most suitable relative humidity range is 60%-80% RH. Under high-temperature and low-humidity conditions, relative humidity needs to be increased. Applicable equipment systems include high-pressure misting equipment above the greenhouse to increase fog droplets, watering below the planting beds, and the use of water walls and fans. However, crops must be avoided becoming wet. Another additional benefit of humidification is lowering the temperature.
(6) Other information
When crops grow in a high relative humidity environment, daytime temperature and sunlight can both be increased to maintain a constant temperature inside the greenhouse, and good air circulation must be maintained. Therefore, the greenhouse height should preferably be 3-4 meters higher than the plants.
In order to analyze problems faced by plant growth, measurement and recording of the microclimate are very important. For example, light quantity, temperature, and relative humidity all need to be measured and recorded. Measurement operations can use microcomputers or handheld sensors, and daily maximum/minimum values all need to be measured.
Cultivation methods
Western orchid cultivation media must meet the following requirements:
It can allow the orchid root system to bear the weight of the orchid itself and maintain normal plant shape, but it must not be too heavy; lightweight is preferred.
Good drainage and water retention. Orchid roots need water, but the water must also drain quickly, because standing water will cause root rot; on the other hand, moisture must be kept from drying out too quickly.
Good aeration.
Contains a considerable amount of mineral nutrients.
Can remain non-decayed for 1-2 years.
Inexpensive, suitable, easy to obtain, and easy to handle.
Media suitable for cultivating Western orchids include the following:
Osmunda fiber, made by processing and crushing the aerial roots of tree ferns; peat moss; sphagnum moss;
Osmunda rhizome, one type being black wire-like hard roots and another being brown softer roots; not easy to rot, containing small amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and trace elements, draining and aerating while retaining water, and durable. pH value 5;
Bark, Douglas fir and white fir bark chunks, soft, aerating and water-retaining, pH value 4-6;
Coconut coir and coconut husk fiber;
Others: palm fiber, dried leaves, trunks, branches, dried cow dung, pumice, clay pellets, broken bricks, tiles, vermiculite, plastic balls, etc. can all be used to grow orchids. The medium used in market-sold potted Phalaenopsis is generally sphagnum moss. [7]
Pre-flowering and post-flowering management
After the flower buds of Phalaenopsis are formed, more phosphorus should be applied until flowering. When the flower stem extends upward and tends to lean to one side, a support should be set up and tied so that the flower stalk does not break. Afterward, as the flower stalk gradually grows longer and taller, tying should also be carried out gradually, with the support slightly curved to enhance beauty. Stop fertilizing during the flowering period and before new leaves grow. After the flowers fade, for robust orchid plants with more than 5 leaves, the lower 3-4 nodes of the stem can be left and cut back, and it is hoped that they will bloom again on the remaining flower stem later. Watering should not be too frequent; water only after the medium has dried thoroughly.
Care points
Cultivation medium: common cultivation media for Phalaenopsis are mainly sphagnum moss and moss.
1. Temperature: when growing Phalaenopsis at home, temperature must first be ensured. Phalaenopsis likes a high-temperature and high-humidity environment. During the growth period, the minimum temperature should be kept above 15°C. The suitable growth temperature for Phalaenopsis is 16-30°C. Attention should be paid to increasing temperature in autumn and winter, at the turn of winter and spring, and when winter temperatures are low. Generally, in rooms with heating equipment in winter, this temperature is not difficult to achieve, but note that the flowers should not be placed directly on the radiator or too close to it. When summer temperatures are relatively high, cooling is needed, and attention should be paid to ventilation. If the temperature is higher than 32°C, Phalaenopsis usually enters a semi-dormant state, and continuous high temperature should be avoided. The peak flowering period is around the Spring Festival, and proper cooling can prolong the viewing time. During flowering, the nighttime temperature is best controlled between 13-16°C, but must not be lower than 13°C. [8]
2. Watering: Phalaenopsis is native to primitive forests, with more mist and higher temperatures. Phalaenopsis has no thick pseudobulbs to store nutrients. If the air humidity is insufficient, the leaf surface will wrinkle and become weak. Therefore, Phalaenopsis should be cultivated and maintained in a ventilated, high-humidity environment. The suitable air humidity for Phalaenopsis growth is 60%-80%. During the vigorous new root elongation period, water more; during the post-flowering dormant period, water less. In spring and autumn, water once every day around 5 p.m. In summer, when the plant grows vigorously, water once each at 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. In winter, when light is weak and temperature is low, watering once every other week is enough, preferably before 10 a.m. If a cold wave hits, do not water; keep it dry and resume watering after the cold wave passes. The principle of watering is to water when dry and stop when wet; when the surface of the cultivation medium becomes dry, water thoroughly once, and the water temperature should be close to room temperature. When indoor air is dry, a sprayer can be used to spray directly on the leaf surface until the leaf surface is moist, but note that during the flowering period, water mist must not be sprayed onto the flowers. Tap water should be stored for more than 72 hours before use for watering.
3. Light: although Phalaenopsis prefers shade, the orchid plant still needs to receive some light, especially before and after the flowering period. Proper light can promote Phalaenopsis flowering and make the flowers brightly colored and long-lasting. Generally, it should be placed in a place with scattered light indoors, and direct sunlight should be avoided.
4. Ventilation: the normal growth of Phalaenopsis requires flowing fresh air, so home-grown Phalaenopsis must have good ventilation, especially during the high-humidity period in summer. Good ventilation must be used to prevent heatstroke, and it can also avoid infection by pests and diseases.
5. Nutrition: Phalaenopsis should be fertilized year-round, and fertilization should not be stopped unless low temperatures last for a long time. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period for Phalaenopsis, and stopping fertilizer can easily lead to no flowers or few flowers. Spring and summer are the growth period, and a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied once every 7-10 days. Organic fertilizer is suitable, and special Phalaenopsis nutrient solution can also be applied, but do not apply it when there are flower buds, otherwise the buds are likely to drop early. In summer, when leaves grow (that is, after the flowering period), nitrogen and potassium fertilizer can be topdressed. In autumn and winter, during the flower stem growth period, phosphorus fertilizer can be used, but it should be dilute, applied about once every 2-3 weeks. Fertilization time is after watering in the afternoon. After several fertilizations, use a large amount of water to rinse the orchid pot and orchid plant, so as to prevent residual inorganic salts from harming the roots.
6. Post-flowering management: the flowering period is generally around the Spring Festival, and the viewing period can last as long as 2-3 months. When the flowers wither, the faded flowers must be cut off as early as possible, which can reduce nutrient consumption. If the flower stem is cut at the 4th-5th node from the base, it can bloom again after 2-3 months. But this consumes too many nutrients in the plant and is not conducive to growth the following year. If you want it to bloom well again the next year, it is best to cut the flower stem from the base. When the medium ages, it should be replaced in due course, otherwise aeration becomes poor, causing root rot and weakening plant growth or even death. Generally, repotting in May, when new leaves grow, is suitable.
Key points to note
1. Watering too frequently: friends who grow Phalaenopsis always worry that the Phalaenopsis lacks water, and regardless of whether the cultivation medium is dry, they water every day, causing severe root rot.
2. Temperature too low: usually the time when flowering Phalaenopsis plants are marketed is mostly in early spring, and after being bought home they are generally placed in living rooms and other places for viewing. Although the daytime temperature in these places is sufficient, the nighttime temperature is slightly on the low side. On the other hand, professionally cultivated orchids are mostly in well-equipped greenhouses. By comparison, the temperature and humidity at home are somewhat insufficient, so the plant's growth tends to weaken day by day. Therefore, sometimes no matter how well it is cared for, the orchid still may not bloom.
3. Excessive fertilization: applying fertilizer whenever there is fertilizer, and not paying attention to concentration, thinking that applying fertilizer will make it grow faster. You should know that Phalaenopsis should be given light fertilizer, with small amounts and many times. Remember that "supplementing" must not be excessive, otherwise it will backfire.
4. Planting a small plant in a large pot: thinking that using a large pot can give Phalaenopsis a more spacious environment and sufficient material. In fact, after using a large pot, sphagnum moss is not easy to dry. You should know that Phalaenopsis likes ventilation, and when air flows freely it thrives.
5. Dry bud drop: most Phalaenopsis are forced into flower. After leaving the base, environmental changes make dry bud drop very likely. At this time, do not think it is due to dryness and do not water more; instead, increase indoor humidity and control indoor temperature. The temperature must not be too high. When buying flowers, try to choose ones with thick petals.
Cultivation management
It likes a high-temperature, high-humidity, ventilated, semi-shaded environment, and is averse to waterlogging and stuffy air. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C. Because Phalaenopsis originates from tropical rainforest regions, it is by nature fond of warmth and afraid of cold. The suitable growth temperature is 18-30°C. In winter, growth stops below 15°C, and it easily dies below 10°C. For mass production in various places in Lingnan, cold protection facilities must be provided and protective cultivation carried out. If growing a small amount at home, move it indoors immediately when cold weather occurs and maintain the temperature so it can overwinter safely.
For its propagation, cell tissue culture is mostly used; after test-tube seedlings are raised and transplanted, they can bloom after about two years. In some mother plants, after the flowering period ends, the axillary buds on the flower stalk sometimes also grow and develop into daughter plants. When they grow roots, they can be cut from the flower stalk for division propagation.
Medium
Because of its epiphytic nature, the planting medium for potting should not be soil, but sphagnum moss, pumice, tree fern chips, charcoal pieces, etc., or the seedlings can be fixed directly on a tree fern board (also called snake wood) and allowed to attach and grow on their own. This cultivation method imitates its original ecological environment. When it blooms, hang the whole board on the wall for viewing, which indeed has a special charm. Phalaenopsis has many aerial roots, and their root tips are emerald green and quite sensitive, so they must be carefully protected and must not be touched or damaged, otherwise the root will stop growing.
Temperature
Phalaenopsis belongs to tropical high-temperature orchids, and the suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. Below 15°C it enters dormancy, and below 10°C it easily dies. However, high temperatures above 35°C affect growth and make it prone to disease. Flowering requires experiencing one month of 15-18°C low temperature to promote flower bud differentiation. If low temperature continues afterward, flower stalk emergence is delayed.
Air
Phalaenopsis likes a high-humidity and ventilated environment. The air is required to maintain humidity at 60%-80% regularly, and air circulation should be maintained, preferably with a gentle breeze. There must not be too much standing water in the pot. If roots are surrounded by liquid water for 6-8 hours, they are very prone to rot, so ventilation is the key to growing Phalaenopsis well. The medium needs to be loose and aerated so the roots grow strong. Avoid dry hot wind. In northern winter cultivation, it cannot be placed on radiators or directly facing air conditioning airflow.
Sunlight
Under natural conditions, Phalaenopsis mostly grows epiphytically on the branches and trunks of tall trees in tropical rainforests under tree shade. It is averse to [10] direct sunlight, otherwise it will cause large-area leaf scorch, but it is also not tolerant of too much indoor shade, which will cause slow growth and be unfavorable for nutrient storage and flowering. It is best to place it on a north- or east-facing balcony or windowsill so that it receives scattered light, and then it will grow robustly with fewer diseases.
Water
Because it has no stolons and no pseudobulbs, Phalaenopsis is not drought-tolerant; also, because of its epiphytic nature, Phalaenopsis is also afraid of waterlogging. During high-temperature summer periods, keep the medium moist. You can use spraying to cool and humidify (but do not let water remain in the leaf center, as it easily causes crown rot). You can also use a moist towel beside the pot to increase humidity, but be sure to note: roots must not remain excessively wet for a long time, especially being surrounded by liquid water for a long time, which makes them very prone to rot. For example, in summer the daily watering amount should be such that it can naturally air-dry the same day, alternating dry and wet, which will greatly reduce the incidence of root rot and disease. In winter, water less and only keep the medium slightly moist.
Fertilization
The fertilization principle for Phalaenopsis is light fertilizer applied frequently, and chemical fertilizer must never be too concentrated. A suitable concentration is about 1 time more diluted than the concentration stated on the chemical fertilizer packaging, that is, about 1500-2000 times. Special Phalaenopsis fertilizer can also be used. Apply nitrogen-potassium fertilizer during the growth period and phosphorus-potassium fertilizer during the flower-forcing period. Applying once a week or once every half month is enough. Do not fertilize during the flowering period or dormant period, but attention should be paid to properly supplement fertilizer before and after flowering.
Cultivation techniques
Phalaenopsis is an epiphytic orchid. During cultivation, the roots are required to have good aeration, and the potting medium must be loose, drainage-friendly, and aerated. Moss, fern roots, bark chunks, coconut shells, or vermiculite are commonly used. About 30-40 days after planting new plants, new roots grow.
During the growth period, fertilize once every ten days. From flower bud formation to the flowering period, apply more phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. Also frequently spray water on the ground and leaf surfaces to increase air humidity, which is very beneficial to stem and leaf growth. Repot every year in May-June when new roots begin to grow after flowering; the temperature should be 20-25°C. If the temperature is too low, new plants recover slowly and are also prone to rot. High temperatures above 32°C are unfavorable for Phalaenopsis growth and will cause it to enter a semi-dormant state, affecting flower bud differentiation, resulting in no flowering. Phalaenopsis has long inflorescences and large flowers. When potted, a support should be set up to prevent tipping and affect flower appearance.
The flower pot should be a bit larger. Pot size is also very important. If the roots of the plant are large, the pot should also be appropriately enlarged. If the roots are small, do not use too large a pot. If the pot is large and contains much soil, it is easy for the soil to have poor permeability. When planting, orchids, camellias, rhododendrons, white orchids, gardenias, etc. need acidic soil (mountain soil); Phalaenopsis and clivia use leaf mold; osmanthus, sago palm, palm bamboo, etc. use 2/3 garden soil plus 1/3 coal cinder ash, the purpose being to increase soil permeability.
Phalaenopsis cultivation methods cultivation plan
The cultivation of cut-flower Phalaenopsis is divided into two stages:
Growth stage: from young seedling to mature plant.
Flowering stage: flower forcing and cut flower sales.
(1) Growth stage
At the start of cultivation, smaller varieties or smaller graded seedlings should be cultivated on another planting bed. Large varieties and larger grades can be placed in square arrangements, but before the leaf width begins to touch, the pots should be spaced out to avoid growing thin and long leaves. In Europe, the planting bed area required for the growth stage is about 10% of the total cultivation area.
(2) Flowering stage
Economic cost calculation, with a 5-year flowering period
After the plant has developed 4-5 leaves, replant it in a 15-17 cm pot, and the spacing between pots can then be fixed. Varieties with larger leaf width need greater spacing. When the orchid plant has grown large enough and the root system is well developed, this orchid plant can serve as a flowering plant.
There are on average about 20 plants per square meter, and there are 5 years from flowering planting to commercial production. If the seedlings are too small or the root system is poorly developed, the flower stalk will be smaller and the flowers smaller, the pot-insertion time will not be long, and the time until the next stalk emergence will also be longer.
Phalaenopsis should be cultivated in transparent pots. Transparent pots can ensure more vigorous growth and better root quality. The pots are placed on planting beds, and ventilation should be good. The width of movable planting beds should be less than 1.6 meters, and the height should be appropriate, so that cut flower work is easy to carry out.
Medium
The criteria for selecting the medium are as follows: large particles for drainage, fine particles (not dust particles) for retaining and distributing water and nutrients. If the medium contains too much fine dust, it easily forms a hard layered structure at the bottom of the pot. The medium used in the Netherlands is bark 12-16 mm long and sphagnum moss at 2-3 kg/m². For large containers such as 14-24 cm pots, coarser bark (14-24 mm) is suitable, but it must be mixed with sticky particles or lava medium. In a 17 cm pot, adding appropriate sphagnum moss (2-3 kg/m²) can make moisture in the medium distribute evenly. This is especially important in the first year of cultivation. Within one year the sphagnum moss will decay and be damaged, but the root system can already effectively distribute within the pot.
In addition to the medium, the drainage performance of the pot is equally important. After irrigation, standing water at the bottom of the pot must not remain too long. Transparent pots can keep the roots within the pot, and the root system will turn green. If the root system only grows downward without circling, the root fixation is incorrect. After irrigation, water and nutrient uptake then requires a longer time, and the quality of future flower stalks becomes worse. Using transparent pots allows checking whether the root system remains vigorous and evenly distributed.
In the first month after transplanting, the medium must be kept moist. The top must not be too dry. If the moisture change in the medium in the first week is too drastic, it is difficult to remedy later in the cultivation period. However, the medium being too wet can also cause problems.
Irrigation system
Available irrigation methods include: using drip irrigation lines, using fixed nozzles, top-down irrigation, manual irrigation, and combinations of the above methods.
Phalaenopsis leaves easily absorb fertilizer such as urea from the leaf surface during foliar fertilization. A porous medium is very important for the roots; despite the negative capillary effect, its advantages are greater. In the early growth stage, using sprinkler irrigation or irrigation booms to irrigate is very useful for the crop. During the flowering stage, in order to avoid gray mold on the petals caused by watering, drip irrigation lines are better. When the flower stalk already has many flowers, watering from above easily causes the flower stalk to break.
Irrigation water must not contain chemical components or visible microorganisms. The sodium and chloride ions contained in the water must not exceed 100 mg/l, and bicarbonate must not be excessive. If there is no good water source, reverse osmosis-treated water must be used. The amount of watering is related to climate, medium, and plant age. In the environment of Western Europe, the irrigation amount is approximately as follows: once every 7-10 days in winter, once every 5-7 days in summer. During the growth period, the water temperature needs to be 18-20°C to avoid root damage.
During the growth period and in the first month after moving to large pots, water must be applied from above, which not only reliably maintains sufficient moisture in the medium, but also avoids salinization at the top layer of the medium. After the root system is well developed, a drip irrigation system can be used instead. At least once a year, water should be supplied from above to leach the medium.
Fertilizer
For fertilizing Phalaenopsis, compound fertilizer can be used or nitrogen fertilizer can be applied directly. Fertilizer application varies by variety. If a base fertilizer is used, the base fertilizer must contain Dolokal (L3-4 kg/l) and PG mixture, with a pH range of 5.2-6.2 and an EC range of 0.8-1.2 mS/cm. If nitrogen fertilizer is too high, it will cause excessive leaf growth. If the EC value is too high, the roots will die. If it is too low, the plant lacks trace elements. The best way to measure EC is to collect the water discharged from the bottom after irrigation. More than 1.5 mS/cm indicates that the medium in the pot has become salinized. Usually the roots will form barrel-red spots, and at this time they need to be leached with clean water or water of low EC.
Flowering stage
When the plant has 5 mature leaves, flower forcing can be carried out. When the plant is sufficiently mature and has gone through a transition period, it will naturally produce flower stalks. Natural flower forcing in autumn allows sale in February-March of the following year. Temperature and light quantity regulation can control the flowering period. When all flower buds on the flower stalk except the last one have opened, it can be cut for sale. When the flower stalk is cut, it usually already has three flower buds. The second flower stalk emerges from the remaining flower buds, and starts from the terminal bud. However, inducing this new flower stalk requires a longer time, so whether to adopt this method of first natural flowering and then emergence of a second flower stalk depends on the required flower stalk quality and sales plan. In addition to the first flower stalk, as long as the plant is healthy, a second time can produce double flower stalks, which can be sold as cut flowers. Therefore, on average 2.5 flower stalks can be sold each year. After the flower stalk emerges, use hanging strings to keep it straight to avoid bending.
Immature flowering plants
During the growth period, flower stalks that emerge before maturity need to be removed promptly. Before the flower stalk hardens, it can be removed manually. If the flower stalk has already hardened, it must be removed with a tool. Before removal or cutting, both hands and tools must be disinfected to avoid transmitting disease. Maintaining a temperature of 27°C during the growth period can avoid this premature flowering phenomenon.
Stage-by-stage care
From bottle seedlings to flowering and sale, Phalaenopsis goes through 5 growth stages: bottle seedlings, small seedlings, medium seedlings, large seedlings, and flowering stage. The key points of cultivation management are as follows.
1. Early management. In the bottle seedling growth stage, the optimal growth temperature is 25-28°C during the day and 18-20°C at night. The suitable growth temperature for the small seedling stage is 23°C. Above 35°C or below 10°C, growth stops. The temperature for small seedlings just out of the bottle should be lower than 20°C, the relative air humidity should be maintained at 70%-80%, and the light should be controlled below 1000 lux. After a transition period, the light is gradually increased to 10,000 lux, and finally can reach 15,000 lux.
The fertilizer and water management during the small seedling growth stage plays a decisive role. Within 3-5 days after tissue-cultured seedlings are removed from the bottle, it is not suitable to apply fertilizer or water, but sterilization treatment must be carried out immediately. Carbendazim 1000-times solution can be used for leaf surface sterilization, and rooting powder can be sprayed the next day, for 3 sprays. After a 3-5 day transition period, apply fertilizer for the first time, spraying Peters Professional No. 10 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 30:10:10) 1800-times solution, with the standard being that the sphagnum moss is completely wet. One day later, use Peters Professional No. 10 (30:10:10) 2500-times solution as foliar fertilizer. One week later, according to the dry-wet condition of the small seedlings, apply fertilizer for the second time, at which point the fertilization principle is high nitrogen, low phosphorus, low potassium.
After 4 months of cultivation, the small seedlings grow into medium seedlings, and at this time they should be repotted. The tightness of the sphagnum moss should be based on the tightness of the muscle below the palm center when the hand naturally makes a fist; the tightness can be greater or smaller, but the standard must be unified. Management in the medium seedling stage is basically similar to the small seedling stage, but the light can be increased to 20,000 lux. Fertilization alternates Peters Professional No. 8 and No. 1 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratios 20:10:20 and 20:20:20 respectively). In the medium seedling stage, attention should be paid to the direction and growth of new leaves; generally place them in an east-west direction and regularly turn the leaves. At this time the fertilization principle is low nitrogen, high phosphorus, high potassium.
After 4-6 months of cultivation, medium seedlings enter the large seedling stage. The management method is the same as for medium seedlings, but fertilization uses Peters Professional No. 1 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 20:20:20).
2. Later management. The flowering period is the management of the later growth stage. Phalaenopsis flowering is promoted by low temperature, so in addition to fine management, temperature should also be well controlled. First keep the temperature above 20°C for 2 months, then lower the nighttime temperature to below 18°C, and flower buds form after 45 days. After flower bud formation, keep the nighttime temperature at 18-20°C and the daytime temperature at 25-28°C. It can bloom after 3-4 months. During the flowering period, the temperature is slightly lowered, but not below 15°C. After the flower buds emerge, a support must be set up, that is, set up the support before the flower stem extends and lodges, and tie the flower stem to the support, leaving space for the flower stem to elongate and thicken.
Water and fertilizer management during the flowering period is especially important. Watering should be carried out at 10 a.m., avoiding directly sprinkling water onto the flowers. After watering, use an exhaust fan for ventilation to keep the air in the shed fresh and allow residual moisture to dissipate as quickly as possible. At this time, fertilization with Peters Professional No. 2 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium ratio 10:30:20) 1000-times solution is best, depending on the condition of the Phalaenopsis itself.
Phalaenopsis is susceptible to soft rot and gray leaf spot. Soft rot is extremely contagious; once discovered, immediately isolate the diseased plant. Diseased plants can be controlled with mancozeb or thiophanate-methyl. Usually sterilize once every 15 days.
Repotting
When many roots of Phalaenopsis grow outside the pot, or when the medium in the pot turns black and rots, repotting should be considered. The repotting steps are as follows:
Carefully remove the Phalaenopsis from the pot and remove all old medium;
Trim the root system, cutting off dead roots, rotten roots, broken roots, and shriveled roots. If the base of the orchid plant is too high, that is, the root crown is too long, part of it can be cut off;
Then place sphagnum moss under the roots and use wet moss to tightly wrap around the root system;
Use larger foam plastic as a base at the bottom of the pot, put the moss-wrapped orchid plant into the pot, and pack the moss tightly around the pot so that the orchid plant does not shake. Place it in a shaded place and do not water until the moss dries thoroughly. Usually spraying is enough (wet moss means soaking dry moss in water until thoroughly wet, then taking it out and squeezing out the water).
Summering techniques
1. Measures: summering Phalaenopsis is mainly a matter of cooling. The following measures should be taken:
Add double-layer shade netting to reduce light and achieve a good cooling effect (cooling by 2-4°C).
Sprinkle or flood the ground. Summer temperatures are very high, but the water temperature just drawn from a well is actually very low, around 16°C. Therefore, sprinkling or flooding can have an obvious cooling effect.
Spray water on leaf surfaces; this cools fastest, but lasts the shortest time.
Ventilation. Make a 40 cm × 40 cm square opening in the wall every 5 meters at a height of 70 cm from the ground to increase ventilation and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases; turn on fans when above 25°C to strengthen air circulation and benefit plant growth.
2. Undesirable phenomena likely to appear during summering
Leaf aging and shedding: some plants' lower leaves decline during the summering process and gradually yellow and shed from late summer to autumn.
Severe pests and diseases: especially when the weather is hot, relative air humidity is too high, and there is no wind, high temperature easily leads to soft rot, brown spot, virus, and other diseases.
Cut flower techniques
The native habitat of Phalaenopsis is all tropical regions of Asia. In the wild, its daytime growth temperature is 28-35°C, nighttime temperature is 20-24°C, and it prefers high relative humidity and shaded conditions. This crop absorbs nutrients through roots and leaves. The root system is also used to fix the plant.
Breeding program
Anthura has a professional breeding team, and the breeding objectives are divided into pot flowers and cut flowers. This company is also the only company that includes cut flowers in its breeding program. The genetic characteristics of the male and female parents require dominant differences to ensure that their progeny have stable inheritance, so they can become a new variety. Its germplasm sources include varieties preserved since 40 years ago, as well as new lines purchased from Asia. The development of new varieties includes hybrid development, selection, and clonal mass production. Developing a new variety takes 7-9 years. From crossing to fruit capsule formation takes 6 months, and from seed sowing to seedling plant takes 1 year. From seedling plant to flowering takes 1.5 years. Using 1 flower stalk to make tissue-cultured plantlets takes 2 years, and from mericlone to flowering takes 1.5 years, so 6.5 years have already passed. Only at this stage does mass propagation of mericlones begin.
The Anthura Phalaenopsis breeding program has two major directions: cut flowers and pot flowers. The selection program includes flower type and flower color. For cut flowers, the most important selection criteria include the number of flower stalks produced, color, proportion of best quality, fewer branches is better, thickness and strength of the flower stalk, development of flower stalk and flowers, flower type, phyllotaxis, plant developmental traits, postharvest storage and transport characteristics, and vase life, etc. Postharvest characteristics are most related to genetics. The viewing period can vary from 5 days to 6 weeks. In addition to the above main selection criteria, other secondary selection criteria are also used to evaluate varieties, such as the loss rate during orchid production and disease resistance.
Seedling characteristics
Anthura provides tissue-cultured plantlets and plug seedlings. Tissue-cultured plantlets need to be specially ordered. Customers have two benefits from using plug seedlings: reducing losses during the seedling acclimatization period and reducing the cultivation period by 5-7 months. Each plug tray contains 40 seedlings, and when delivered to the customer's greenhouse, they can immediately be transplanted.
The seedlings in the rectangular trays have a leaf width of 10-14 cm and usually have 2-3 well-grown leaves. Before the seedlings are transplanted into 12 cm soft pots, they must be graded. Anthura does not perform this grading work for customers. Usually the grower divides the seedlings in the rectangular trays into two grades, large and small, and after transplanting they are cultivated on different planting beds. The cultivation period for small seedlings is 3-4 months longer than for large seedlings.
Transplanting small seedlings into 12 cm soft pots is still mainly manual labor. The seedlings must be kept vertical, placed in the lower center of the soft pot, and planted at the correct height. If the plant growing point is too deep, it is prone to disease infection; if the transplanting depth is too shallow, support is poor. After transplanting, the arrangement of the soft pots is very important. After the orchid seedlings grow and the leaves begin to shade each other from sunlight, the pots must be spaced out, increasing the spacing between soft pots.
Propagation methods of Phalaenopsis
The main propagation methods for Phalaenopsis are five: seed sowing propagation, flower stalk bud induction propagation, crown-cutting bud induction propagation, stem-cutting propagation, and tissue culture.
1.Seed sowing propagation
This method can produce a large number of superior seedlings, and is not easily affected by viruses or other diseases; hybridization can also be used to breed newer, more unusual varieties with more flower colors and flower shapes.
1. Natural sowing method
Sow the seeds released from the already split seed capsule into the pot of the parent plant, because the growing medium of the parent plant may contain the symbiotic bacteria necessary for Phalaenopsis seed germination. The natural sowing method is simple and easy, requiring no complicated sterile procedures or operating tools, and is suitable for ordinary home Phalaenopsis growers, but the chance of success with this method is very small, so it is rarely used.
2. Aseptic sowing method
The method is to first wash the unopened mature seed capsule, then soak it in 75%-90% ethanol or chloroform for 2-3 seconds, then soak it in 5%-10% bleaching powder solution or 3% hydrogen peroxide for 5-20 minutes. Take out the seeds and soak them in the same disinfectant solution for 5-20 minutes, then remove the solution by filtering, take out the seeds, and use a fine needle to spread the seeds evenly on the surface of the prepared culture medium in a bottle. The culture conditions are a light intensity of 2000-3000 lux, 10-18 hours per day, and a temperature maintained at 20-26°C. After 9-10 months, when the young seedlings grow 2-3 leaves, they can be taken out of the bottle and planted in pots. This method is highly scientific work, generally carried out in a tissue culture laboratory, or in a large-scale, strictly managed tissue culture factory.
2.Flower stalk bud induction propagation
In many varieties of Phalaenopsis, after the flowers fade, rooted plantlets often grow from the internodes of the flower stalk; cutting them off and planting them separately can grow into a new Phalaenopsis. Artificial bud induction can be used to ensure that the flower stalk of Phalaenopsis produces stalk plantlets for propagation. The method is to first cut off the part of the flower stalk that has finished blooming, then carefully remove the bracts at the first to third internodes of the upper part of the flower stalk with a blade or sharp knife to expose the buds in the internodes; use a cotton swab to evenly apply bud-inducing agent or hormones such as indolebutyric acid to the exposed internode nodes; after treatment, place the orchid plant in a semi-shaded place with the temperature maintained at 25-28°C. After 2-3 weeks, the buds can be seen growing leaves, and after 3 months they grow into Phalaenopsis plantlets with 3-4 leaves and aerial roots; cut off the plantlets and pot them up, and they become a new orchid plant.
3.Crown-cutting bud induction propagation
After the growing point of an orchid plant is damaged by freezing injury, insect pests, diseases, or human factors, after a period of time, 1-2 new shoots will grow from the stem nodes near the base of the orchid plant. This characteristic can be used to propagate Phalaenopsis. The specific operation method is: pull out the highest central leaf at the top of the stem, taking care to damage the stem tip growing point so that it cannot grow upward; let the wound dry or apply fungicide to disinfect and sterilize it, and after a period of time 2-3 new shoots can grow from the stem nodes near the base; when the new shoots grow larger and roots grow from the base, they can be cut off and planted separately to become a new plant.
4.Stem-cutting propagation
The principle of stem-cutting propagation is to destroy the stem tip growing point to induce the growth of dormant buds. Although there are 1-3 dormant buds in the leaf axils of a Phalaenopsis plant, most of them cannot sprout into plants. After the plant continues to grow upward and the stem nodes become longer, cut off the upper part of the plant with roots using a sterilized sharp knife or scissors, plant it in a new pot to continue growing, and give the lower part with the rhizome proper water management; before long, 1-3 new shoots will sprout (depending on the characteristics of the plant itself and the management method). If the stem of the plant is relatively long, it can also be considered to cut it into multiple sections; as long as each section has 2-3 internodes or is more than 2-3 cm long and has more than one root, it may grow into a new plant, but if the rhizome of the plant has completely dried up and died, this method is ineffective.
5.Tissue culture method
Using tissue culture to propagate Phalaenopsis can obtain excellent genetic characteristics exactly the same as those of the mother plant. Phalaenopsis plantlets produced by this method are called mericlones or tissue-cultured plantlets. The plant tissue used for meristem culture (explant) can be the terminal bud (stem tip), stem segment (dormant bud), or young leaves or root tips, but the most common is the flower stalk of Phalaenopsis. This is because using the flower stalk as an explant not only does not damage the plant, but is also easy to induce. Older flower stalks or flower stalks that have already bloomed mainly use the stalk node buds, while for young flower stalks, in addition to the stalk node buds, the stalk internodes can also be used as culture material.
6. Home propagation method
Cut off the faded flowers together with the flower stalk after flowering, taking care to retain the ungerminated bud nodes (about three or four nodes).
Carefully remove the bracts on the top one or two bud nodes to expose the node buds, taking care not to injure the buds.
Take a small amount of bud-inducing agent and evenly apply it to the node buds. If the wound after removing the bracts can also be covered with it, the effect is better.
Place the treated orchid in a suitable place (able to receive light but not direct sun). The temperature should be maintained at 25-30°C and the humidity above 75%, and new flower plantlets can grow in 2-3 months.
When the new plantlets grow to a certain size, wrap a small amount of sphagnum moss around their base with plastic film. When the plantlets grow two or three thick roots, they can be cut off and planted separately.
Disease control of Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis flowering is mainly affected by temperature. Flower bud differentiation requires low-temperature stimulation. After stimulating for one month with daytime 20-23°C and nighttime below 18°C (but not below 15°C for a long time), the dormant buds in the stem can be transformed into flower buds. Afterward, when the flower buds break through the epidermis and grow into flower stalks, a relatively high temperature is needed, and the normal growth temperature is suitable. Continuous low temperature will cause the flower stalk to emerge slowly, the flowers to be smaller, or even wither midway. Properly increasing sunlight during the flowering period helps the flowers be larger, more colorful, and bloom earlier. Phalaenopsis pest and disease control: the occurrence of Phalaenopsis diseases is mostly caused by poor environment and hygiene, especially when low temperature or insufficient sunlight makes disease particularly likely. Regular environmental cleaning, temperature and humidity control, and rapid removal of diseased plants can prevent most disease occurrence and spread. Phalaenopsis diseases can generally be divided into those caused by bacteria, mold, insects, and the environment. The disease conditions and control methods are as follows:
Bacterial diseases: This type of disease initially mostly multiplies in internal tissues, then spreads to the leaf surface and plant surface. Common symptoms include exuding fluid and rot, mostly caused by excessive watering or transmitted through insects or contact between plants. Black rot symptoms: a common disease of orchid plants. Phalaenopsis affected by it usually dies of whole-plant decay, and it is a quite serious disease. Control methods: special attention must be paid to greenhouse ventilation, and the temperature also needs to be appropriately lowered. If an orchid plant has this disease, avoid spraying water to prevent the disease from spreading. Fungicide powder should be sprayed to prevent disease in unaffected orchid plants, and diseased plants should be removed as quickly as possible.
Brown rot symptoms: It can be said to be a rather difficult orchid disease to deal with. In the early stage, pale spots appear on the plant body or leaf surface, then gradually become darker and turn dark brown, and cause the plant body to wrinkle. Brown rot spreads quite quickly. From initial onset to wrinkling and rot takes only one day; usually infection occurs in the morning and rot begins in the evening, making it a quite troublesome Phalaenopsis disease. Brown rot mostly occurs in environments with high air humidity, and is most likely to occur in spring and summer. At this time air humidity is relatively high and orchid plants grow relatively quickly. Once an orchid plant becomes diseased, it easily causes surrounding orchids to become diseased as well. Control methods: brown rot is likely to occur in environments with high air humidity. If an orchid plant is found to have symptoms, stop watering, cut off the diseased parts, and apply fungicide. If the disease is severe or there is concern that the condition will expand, the diseased plant can be removed or isolated. If other orchid plants are at risk of infection, fungicide powder can be sprayed for prevention. Humidity in spring and summer must also be strictly controlled, and orchid garden ventilation and environmental cleanliness must be maintained.
Mold: Too much change in environmental humidity or damage to the plant caused by soil and nutrient solution fertility factors allows mold to attack orchid tissues. Lowering the EC value of irrigation water and reducing medium moisture are common treatment methods. In addition, gray mold on orchid petals also belongs to mold diseases, forming small spots on orchid flowers. The cause of this disease is excessive moisture or too high relative humidity, and temperature and humidity control is needed.
Spot disease symptoms: It mostly occurs on leaves. In the early stage, circular dark brown spots appear on the leaf surface. The spots gradually spread and finally cause the orchid plant to rot. It belongs to a fungal disease and mostly occurs in low-temperature, humid, and poorly ventilated environments in autumn and winter. Control methods: this disease mostly occurs in low-temperature, humid, and poorly ventilated environments. The control method first emphasizes improving humidity and keeping the leaf surface dry. On cold days, water as little as possible, raise the environmental temperature, and maintain ventilation so that moisture does not linger on the plant body. Leaf blight symptoms: in the early stage of leaf blight, the leaf tip begins to change color, then gradually spreads to the whole leaf and whole plant, and finally the entire orchid turns dark brown, and the affected orchid plant body stiffens and dies. This disease is also caused by an excessively humid environment, and humidity control must be noted.
Control methods: pay attention to humidity control in the orchid garden, and improving ventilation also requires special attention. If there is concern about disease, fungicide powder can be sprayed for prevention. Orchids that have already become diseased need to be cut off and isolated as soon as possible to avoid expanding the damage.
Insect slugs and snails: slugs and snails are common Phalaenopsis pests. The commonly occurring damage is that young plant bodies are bitten and produce small holes, affecting the appearance and growth of the orchid. Damage from snails and slugs is quite rapid, and many orchid plants can be affected in a short period. Once discovered, pesticide should be used as soon as possible to eliminate them. Mites: red spider mites bite the leaf area, causing deformation and discoloration, creating unfavorable factors for orchid appearance and growth. Insecticides can be used to control this type of pest.
Physiological abnormalities caused by the environment. Bud drop: after the orchid finishes flowering, if light is too strong and room temperature is too high, the phenomenon of shedding before the flowering period ends easily occurs. Poor root development of the orchid can also cause it. Phalaenopsis bud drop needs to be addressed from the above two points. Spots: spots on orchids are not necessarily a pathogen problem. Sometimes too strong light or poor environmental adaptation can also produce the same symptoms. Attention should be paid to environmental changes, especially when plant bodies are moved.
Pest and disease management
Proper sanitation and weekly removal of diseased plants can prevent most disease spread. Bacterial infection is mainly due to water droplets splashing on the plant body, or being affected during transport. This disease cannot be controlled with chemicals. Various diseases and modes of spread are as follows:
1. Bacterial diseases
Bacterial brown spot is the most serious disease of Phalaenopsis. The symptom is brown spots appearing on the leaves. They are oily or heart-shaped, surrounded by yellow-shaped material. Treatment methods include adjusting the nitrogen amount in the fertilizer solution, removing diseased plants, and maintaining stable relative humidity. Chemicals have no effect on this disease. Only by using vigorously growing, healthy plants can this bacterial problem be avoided.
2. Mold
Too much change in moisture in the medium or an unsuitable EC value causes root damage, thus prompting mold to attack tissues. The way to deal with it is to lower the EC value of irrigation water and temporarily reduce the moisture content of the medium.
3. Gray mold pathogen
Another disease caused by mold is gray mold on petals, forming many small spots on the flowers. The cause is that the plant remains in a moist state for too long or the relative humidity is too high.
4. Fusarium
Fusarium causes black triangular spots, forming yellow and dark red on the basal leaves. The leaves will quickly fall. This disease is likely to occur when the roots are in standing water.
Common cases
1. Leaf spot: mainly occurs on leaves. In the early stage of onset, small spots appear on the leaves, then develop into nearly circular lesions. The lesion edge has a water-soaked yellow halo with clear boundaries. Control methods: strengthen ventilation, reduce air humidity, and cut off diseased leaves. During the onset period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800-times solution, once every 10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays.
2. Gray mold: occurs in spring during low temperature and high humidity. Generally, brown small spots appear on the petals of white flowers, and in severe cases soft rot occurs. Control methods: strengthen ventilation, reduce humidity, and immediately cut off affected flowers. In the early stage of onset, spray 75% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 1000-times solution, once every 10 days, for 2 consecutive sprays.
3．Brown spot: occurs in summer and autumn during high-temperature and humid weather, mainly on leaves. In the early stage of onset, circular small spots appear on the leaves, then gradually expand into large spots. The lesions are dark brown, and in severe cases the leaves turn black and wither. Control methods: pay attention to ventilation and light transmission. In the early stage of onset, spray 10% polyoxin 80-times solution once every half month.
4．Scale insects: the most common pest of Phalaenopsis, mostly occurring in autumn and winter, when indoor ventilation is poor and dryness leads to scale insect damage. Control methods: pay attention to ventilation; orchid plants should not be placed too densely. When only a small number is found, a soft cloth can be used to wipe off the scale insects; repeating several times can eradicate the pest.
5：Soft rot
(1) Disease symptoms
Bacterial soft rot mainly damages edge leaves, central leaves, leaf sheaths, and basal stems. When damaging edge leaves, it first causes mung-bean-sized, circular, water-soaked spots on the front of the leaf. The expansion speed is especially fast; under suitable conditions, within 5-8 hours it can rapidly expand into circular water-soaked rotten spots 3-4 cm in diameter, then spread into patches or even the whole leaf, causing the leaf to become soft and rotten. After the mesophyll softens and rots, thread-like leaf veins remain, and pus-like exudate overflows, giving off a rotten apple odor. When damaging leaf sheaths, it starts from the sheath membrane and goes upward along the leaf veins, causing part of the leaf to turn yellow. After expansion, the leaf sheath together with the leaf base becomes discolored and soft-rotted, and the entire leaf falls off. Symptoms of central leaf onset and edge leaf onset are basically the same. In severe cases, the basal stem also rots together, and the entire plant dies.
(2) Causes of onset
2.1 Repeated use of sheds and rooms, large pathogen base
The pathogens causing soft rot include 2 types, bacteria and fungi. They all overwinter in soil, weeds, seedling beds, and seedlings, spread through wind and rain, and invade through wounds and stomata. Under suitable conditions both can cause disease, becoming the main infection source of initial diseased plants. The larger the pathogen base, the more severe the disease in that year. Phalaenopsis mostly uses soilless cultivation in greenhouses. Because sheds and rooms are reused, large amounts of pathogens remain in indoor soil, seedling beds, trays and pots, and walls, making the disease worse year after year. Even in new sheds, because seedlings are introduced from epidemic areas, the seedlings themselves carry pathogens, which also becomes an important route for long-distance spread of the disease.
2.2 High temperature and high humidity
According to observation, when the temperature exceeds 26°C and humidity exceeds 60%, plants begin to develop disease. As temperature and humidity increase, lesions expand rapidly and spread faster [2]. While greenhouses retain heat, they also increase humidity inside the shed. Especially in summer and autumn, humidity approaches saturation and temperature is also much higher than outdoor temperature. Even with fan ventilation and water curtain cooling, daytime temperatures remain above 30°C, and nighttime temperatures are also 27-30°C. While cooling, the water curtain also increases humidity inside the shed. Therefore, conditions inside the greenhouse are more favorable for disease than outside. When watering, splashed water droplets very easily spread pathogens from diseased plants to the surroundings, forming a disease center area centered on old diseased plants. While ventilating, fans also accelerate indoor air flow, speeding up the spread of pathogens in the shed. At the same time, because nighttime humidity is greater, the speed of lesion expansion and the plant disease incidence rate are much higher than during the day. Overnight, small spots become large spots, and healthy plants become diseased plants. The degree of susceptibility varies greatly among plant lines. Generally, large-leaf varieties are more susceptible, those with thick leaf wax are more resistant, plants that have not flowered are more resistant, and plants that have flowered are more susceptible. The Ruby variety is the most susceptible; Taicun Red Angel and Shihua Diamond are not resistant.
(3) Control measures
3.1 Do a good job of disinfecting sheds and seedlings
Before moving seedlings in the spring, especially in reused greenhouses, disinfection must be carried out thoroughly to eliminate overwintering pathogens and reduce the pathogen base. Chemicals can use 40% asomate 100-times solution, or sodium pentachlorophenate 200-times solution for indoor spraying; quicklime 500 g/m² can also be scattered for ground disinfection, and after application keep the shed closed for 3-4 days. In new areas, avoid introducing seedlings from epidemic areas, and pay attention to inspection and quarantine of newly introduced seedlings. Immediately after entering the shed, spray 10% polyoxin aqueous solution 800-times solution for sterilization, for 2-3 consecutive sprays. Susceptible lines should be cultivated separately from other lines to avoid cultivation in the same room and same bed and reduce cross-infection.
3.2 Strengthen water and fertilizer management
Phalaenopsis is a flower with high water demand, but if the watering amount is too large or too frequent, the medium moisture in the pot is too high, remaining saturated for a long time, and aeration is poor, easily causing root rot, affecting healthy plant growth, and reducing disease resistance. Each watering should follow the principle of alternating dry and wet, not watering until dry, and watering slowly. Prevent water from splashing onto the leaves. It is appropriate for water to just seep to the medium at the bottom of the pot. Generally, watering in the morning is better; avoid watering in the evening and leaving water on the leaves overnight. The water temperature should be as close as possible to room temperature. For seedlings whose medium has been too wet for a long time, the pot bag can be removed to air-dry the seedlings. Phalaenopsis fertilization is generally carried out together with watering. Fertilization should follow light fertilizer applied frequently, and compound fertilizer and organic fertilizer rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are suitable. During the seedling stage, compound fertilizer with high nitrogen can be applied; during the flower-forcing stage, compound fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium can be applied; during the high-temperature disease period in summer, trace elements such as calcium and magnesium can also be added.
3.3 Reduce greenhouse temperature and humidity, strengthen patrols
The optimum growth temperature for Phalaenopsis is 25-30°C, and the optimum humidity is 60%-70%, but in summer the temperature and humidity inside the shed greatly exceed these limits. Adding double-layer shade netting can not only lower the temperature inside the shed, but also prevent strong light from scorching leaves. Simple sheds without exhaust ventilation should open the surrounding shed cloth to reduce temperature and humidity. Greenhouses equipped with fans and water curtains should especially pay attention to reducing the water curtain watering time at night and extending the exhaust ventilation time. Seedlings on seedling beds should not be placed too densely; a certain plant and row spacing should be left to avoid leaves crossing and overlapping, so as to facilitate ventilation and light transmission and create a good microclimate for robust plant growth. Always keep the shed clean and hygienic, with no weeds or residual diseased leaves in the shed. From the beginning of disease onset, persist in patrolling the garden 2-3 times a day, promptly discover diseased plants, remove diseased leaves. For diseased leaves with small lesions, cut them off 4-5 cm into healthy tissue away from the lesion. If the whole leaf rots, it should be thoroughly removed together with the leaf sheath. Diseased leaves should be promptly taken outside the shed and buried deeply. Diseased and disabled plants should be isolated promptly to prevent recurrence of infection. The scissors and knives used must also be disinfected to prevent human transmission.
3.4 Chemical control
For bacterial soft rot, from the beginning of onset, spray alternately every 7-10 days with 600-times solution of chlorothalonil or agricultural streptomycin 3000-4000-times solution. For fungal soft rot, 80% thiophanate-methyl or 80% mancozeb 800-1000-times solution can be used, for 2-3 consecutive sprays. Spraying should be even, so that the leaf surface drips and the base is soaked. It is best to finish spraying by 15:00-16:00 so that the water on the leaf surface can dry before nightfall, reducing humidity inside the shed and on the leaf surface.
(2)Virus
The symptoms of Phalaenopsis infected by virus are smaller flowers and slower growth speed. However, the growth traits of some varieties are not affected by virus infection. Virus symptoms are more obvious during the low-temperature flower-forcing stage. The greatest impact of viruses on Phalaenopsis lies in growth speed.
(3)Insects and small animals
1. Slugs and snails
Slugs and snails bite small holes in young plants, and can also damage many plants within just a few days. They also bite and damage root tips. Pesticides can effectively control this type of small animal.
2. Mites
Red spider mites cause slight deformation and severe color changes on the leaf area. Because their distribution is concentrated, insecticides can be used for control.
3. Thrips: brown thrips can usually be found on every plant part, and appear in groups. Chemical pesticides are difficult to eradicate. Removing diseased plants is the best solution.
4. Sciaridae, fungus gnats: this type of insect attacks root tips. Applying predatory natural enemies (Hypoaspis predatory mite, 100-150/2) and hanging yellow sticky insect boards can prevent infection.
5. Locusts: most locust pests are small locusts. After leaves are damaged, large feeding marks are caused; when young flower stalks are damaged, severe cases will break; after petals are chewed, the flowers are incomplete.
Control methods: 1. Remove weeds to reduce places for locust reproduction and perching. 2. Use 50% fenitrothion emulsion 1000-times solution, spraying once every 7-10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays.
6. Scale insects: mainly parasitize orchid leaves, leaf sheaths, and pseudobulbs, using piercing-sucking mouthparts to penetrate orchid stomata and absorb nutrients. In severe cases, leaves yellow, wither, and fall. They mostly occur in cultivation sites with high humidity, poor ventilation, and insufficient sunlight. This type of pest secretes honeydew, inducing sooty mold, affecting plant growth and ornamental value.
Control methods: 1. When only a small number occurs, use a soft brush dipped in water to brush off eggs, or cut off the affected part and remove it for burning. 2. Ladybugs are natural enemies of scale insects and can prey on large numbers of scale insects, thereby suppressing their occurrence. 3. When scale insects occur in relatively large numbers, spray 50% fenitrothion emulsion 1000-times solution or 50% malathion emulsion 800-times solution, once every 7-10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays.
7. Aphids mainly cause damage in spring and early summer, sucking the sap and nutrients of young leaves, young buds, and developing flower spikes and flower buds, causing growth inhibition, deformation and distortion of leaves and flower spikes, and poor development. The honeydew they secrete attracts ants and induces sooty mold or other fungal diseases.
Control methods: 1. Spray alternately with omethoate or pyrethrin 1000-times solution. 2. Natural enemies such as Chilocorus kuwanae, Japanese square-headed beetle, and Chilocorus rubidus have a good effect in preying on aphids. 3. Use yellow boards for trapping and killing.
8. Whiteflies usually parasitize orchids in groups. In severe cases, the entire leaf, leaf sheath, and pseudobulb are covered with whiteflies. Their reproductive capacity is very strong and they can cause orchid leaves to dry up and fall.
Control methods: 1. When damage occurs, spray 50% fenitrothion emulsion 1000-times solution or 50% malathion emulsion 800-times solution, once every 7-10 days, for 3 consecutive sprays. 2. Yellow boards can better trap and kill greenhouse whiteflies.
9. Rats: rats gnaw orchid seedlings, young buds, flower stalks, and even orchid pseudobulbs, often biting them into pieces and causing losses.
Control methods: rat traps, electric rat killers, or poison bait can be set. They often need to be used in rotation to achieve control effects. [12]
(4)Physiological abnormalities caused by the environment
1. Bud drop
At the completion stage of flowering, if light is too strong and temperature is too high, flower buds easily fall from the flower stalk. Poor root quality can also cause this phenomenon. If flowers do not undergo an acclimation stage before transport, bud drop can also occur.
2. Chilling injury during transport:
When plants are transported from the growing area to the sales area, orange-red spots may appear on the leaf surface, usually caused by cell death due to chilling injury. Other environmental stress or excessive light can also cause it.
(5)Phytotoxicity: due to the use of unsuitable chemicals.
Phalaenopsis variety classification related variants
Phalaenopsis equestris is a variety of Phalaenopsis. The flowers are slightly smaller.
Phalaenopsis aphrodite is a variety of Phalaenopsis. Leaves large, flat, thick, green, and with markings. The flower stem branches.
Phalaenopsis schilleriana, also known as Schiller's Phalaenopsis. It is a common species in the same genus. Leaves large, oblong, 70 cm long, 14 cm wide, with gray and green markings on the leaf surface and purple on the leaf back. Flowers many, more than 170, flower diameter 8-9 cm, light purple, with white edges. Flowering period spring and summer.
Phalaenopsis mannii, also known as Banna Phalaenopsis. It is a common species in the same genus. Leaves 30 cm long, green, yellow at the leaf base, sepals and petals orange-red, with brown-purple horizontal stripes. Lip white, 3-lobed, lateral lobes erect, tip truncate, mid-lobe nearly semicircular, raised at the central tip, densely covered with papillose hairs on both sides. Flowering period March-April.
Phalaenopsis amabilis is a common species in the same genus. Leaves 40 cm long, with an obvious main vein on the leaf surface, green, with purple on the leaf back. Flowers white, often with green or cream-yellow in the center.
Phalaenopsis philippinensis is a common species in the same genus. Flower stem about 60 cm long, drooping. Flowers brown, with purple-brown horizontal banding. Flowering period May-June.
Phalaenopsis wilsonii is a common species in the same genus. Sepals and petals yellow-green, lip purple, with a raised papillate base on the back.
Distribution range of Phalaenopsis
Most Phalaenopsis are produced in humid Asian regions, naturally distributed in Assam, Myanmar, the islands of the Indian Ocean, the Malay Peninsula, the South Sea Islands, the Philippines, and low-latitude tropical islands such as Taiwan. The Phalaenopsis produced in the forests around Wusenyong in Taitung and Green Island are the most famous. Variety types: there are about more than 70 native species worldwide, but most native species have small and inconspicuous flowers. Commercially cultivated Phalaenopsis are mostly artificially hybridized and selected varieties!
There are about 530 or so hybrid-selected varieties. Those with yellow flowers are relatively precious. There is a yellow-flowered variety called "Emperor," which can be called a "superstar," and its price is extremely high. As for blue-flowered varieties, they are also relatively rare. At the 1952 and 1953 international Western orchid expositions, the Phalaenopsis sent for exhibition from Taiwan won gold medal trophies for two consecutive years. At the 14th orchid exhibition held in Hong Kong, China in 1989, a white-petaled, red-lipped Phalaenopsis sent for exhibition by Mr. Hu Bingchi won the overall grand championship award. These outstanding honors laid a solid foundation for the development of Phalaenopsis. Today, consumer demand for Phalaenopsis among people in Europe and America continues to increase, and almost all high-end banquets cannot do without Phalaenopsis as decoration. Many brides and bridesmaids prefer to use it as bouquets and corsages. Italy alone sold more than 2.6 million Phalaenopsis plants in 1990, setting a historical record. In Hong Kong, China each pot sells for about 70-100 HKD, and cut flowers from mother stems sell for 15-30 HKD!
Effects and uses of Phalaenopsis home influence
Phalaenopsis fills a home with a joyful atmosphere, reflecting a home style that yearns for happiness. We all know that there are many kinds of Phalaenopsis. The genus Phalaenopsis is a famous cut flower type. Phalaenopsis is a monopodial epiphytic orchid with a short stem, large leaves, and one to several arching flower stems. The flowers are large and named because the flower shape resembles a butterfly. Its flower posture is elegant and its colors are gorgeous. The most attractive are blue, pink, red, yellow, and pink. With so many color choices, if viewed together, there is a colorful effect that can fill a home with a festival atmosphere, like the New Year. Think back to how we feel every New Year: we all have many wishes, we are very happy, and everyone has a new beginning. As the saying goes: "When people meet happy events, their spirits are high." Plant Phalaenopsis, and the bright colors make a home full of joy. When the mood is good, the spirit is naturally high.
Phalaenopsis can create a noble home style. Everyone knows that Phalaenopsis is also relatively expensive among flowers. Just like when we usually buy a piece of clothing, a famous brand can be recognized at a glance, and that feeling is different. Phalaenopsis is the same, so matching it with equally classic and expensive Chinese-style furniture adds even more luxurious texture, reflecting a noble, generous, and luxurious home style.
Feng shui effects
In addition to ornamental effects, Phalaenopsis also has many feng shui effects.
1. Phalaenopsis is a yang plant, suitable for people whose five elements belong to fire to grow.
When people use yin-yang and five-element feng shui adjustment items, they have various different needs, and may be constrained by many aspects such as scenario, time limit, custom, and economic conditions. Feng shui also divides the five-element and yin-yang attributes of various flowers and plants. For example, yang plants are often those suitable for surviving in outdoor, dry, sunny environments, as well as plants whose appearance gives people a masculine, upright feeling, or plants with characteristics of having roots, broad leaves, being straight, upward, and enthusiastic. On the contrary, yin plants are those suitable for moist, low-temperature, indoor cultivation, as well as plants whose appearance gives people a delicate, slender, cold feeling; all belong to yin plants. Phalaenopsis belongs to yang plants. People whose five elements belong to fire can place a pot of Phalaenopsis at home, which will be beneficial to development in all aspects.
2. Phalaenopsis has many very wonderful flower languages and meanings, and from the perspective of feng shui it has a certain promoting effect.
White-flowered Phalaenopsis: foretells pure love and precious friendship. Placing one at home for a newlywed family foretells a beautiful marriage; for people living with friends, placing one at home foretells harmonious coexistence.
Red Phalaenopsis: means a smooth career and perfect happiness. This is believed to be the wish of all young couples. Plant a red Phalaenopsis to add a little color to your marriage and career.
Striped Phalaenopsis: striped means everything goes smoothly and all wishes come true, so striped Phalaenopsis is suitable for every family and every age group to plant and use as home decoration.
Yellow Phalaenopsis: yellow implies a flourishing career and prosperous business. People in business should plant one at home; even if it does not get better, at least it will not get worse. In addition, mini Phalaenopsis represents a happy angel and in the prime of life.
Cultural background of Phalaenopsis prose for pleasure
Phalaenopsis is a beautiful "princess," bringing people much fragrance and beauty.
The stem of Phalaenopsis is black, the leaves are spoon-shaped and emerald green, and the beautiful flowers emerge from the spoon, wearing purple clothes; some have only unfolded two or three petals, some have all petals unfolded, revealing pearl-like stamens; some are still flower buds, looking as if they are about to burst open immediately. At this moment, are the Phalaenopsis I see not just little purple butterflies? Oh! I understand, this is how Phalaenopsis got its name.
Little butterflies, one after another, stop on the flower stem, as if they are looking at all of us! They also seem to be saying to us: "Everyone, look at me quickly, I am the princess among a hundred flowers!" At this time Phalaenopsis smiles at us; it nods for a while, looks here for a while, then looks there for a while, and sometimes even dances for us from time to time! Princess Phalaenopsis is really such a naughty and cute thing!
Phalaenopsis is really so beautiful!
Flower language of Phalaenopsis
White-flowered Phalaenopsis: pure love, precious friendship
Red-hearted Phalaenopsis: good fortune ahead, eternal union
Red Phalaenopsis: smooth career, perfect happiness
Striped Phalaenopsis: everything goes smoothly, all wishes come true
Yellow Phalaenopsis: flourishing career, prosperous business
Mini Phalaenopsis: happy angel, in the prime of life
Phalaenopsis flower language: I love you, happiness flies to you
Phalaenopsis corresponding zodiac signs: Aquarius & Sagittarius, representing loyalty, wisdom, rationality, and virtue
Phalaenopsis pictures