A detailed guide to rose cutting propagation techniques: easily propagate strong rose seedlings
Roses are plants of the genus Rosa in the family Rosaceae and are a major product of the world flower industry. Rose propagation is divided into 2 types: asexual propagation and sexual propagation. Sexual propagation is mostly used for breeding new varieties or producing rootstock. Asexual propagation includes methods such as cuttings, division, layering and tissue culture. Cutting propagation not only preserves the superior characteristics of the mother plant, but is also simple and easy to learn, propagates quickly, and has a high survival rate.
1. Cutting time
It can be done in both spring and autumn. In spring, from late April to the end of May, when the climate is mild and the branches are vigorous, roots can form 1 month after insertion, and the survival rate is high. Autumn cuttings are taken from late August to the end of October; at this time cuttings are greatly affected by the difference between day and night temperatures, rooting is relatively slow, requiring 40-50d to root, and the survival rate is slightly lower than that of spring cuttings.
2. Preparing the seedbed
Location: the cutting seedbed should be chosen in a place with deep soil, loose structure, good permeability, good drainage and air circulation.
Specifications: 1m wide and 3m long (it should be noted that seedbed size has little effect on the survival of cuttings and should be determined according to need; when large-scale propagation is needed, a slightly larger one may be chosen, and conversely a smaller one.
3. Substrate selection
Rose cuttings can also root when inserted directly into ordinary soil, but the survival rate is not high and it is not suitable for large-scale production. Therefore, fine sand is generally chosen as the substrate; the fine sand is best unused. To prevent the cuttings from rotting during rooting, formaldehyde can be added to the fine sand at 5ml/m3, and the fine sand should be spread out on clean ground to sun and turned about 3 times to let the formaldehyde completely volatilize; after 3-5d the bed can be filled. Russian olive seed sowing and seedling raising techniques: when filling with fine sand, it should be evenly spread on the seedbed, lightly compacted, and watered once thoroughly; while the water has not dried, use a wooden block to gently scrape the sand surface level.
4. Harvesting branches
Choose vigorous annual healthy branches from the upper part of plants that are growing vigorously and free of pests and diseases (powdery mildew and black spot). Branches that are too old or too tender are both bad and affect the survival rate; branches whose flowers have just faded are best. After cutting the branches, to prevent powdery mildew and sooty mold during the cutting process, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 1000 times solution.
5. Cutting treatment
When too many branches have been harvested, they should be soaked in water or stacked under a shade shed (water should be sprayed frequently to maintain moisture).
Prune the harvested branches: first cut off the faded flowers on the upper part of the branches, select the middle and lower parts of the branches, and cut them into sections of about 10cm each as 1 cutting, retaining 3-4 axillary buds on each. Do not keep leaves, or keep only 1-2 leaves at the top, to prevent loss of water and nutrients from the cuttings, facilitate rooting, and control the growth of branches and leaves. Cut the upper end of the cutting into a flat opening and the lower end into a slanted opening, with the cut about several millimeters from the axillary bud. The cut should be smooth so as to form callus tissue and facilitate rooting; it must not be cut askew, otherwise it will be difficult to root and form young plants. The collected branches should be cut as soon as possible, generally completed within 1-2h.
6. Cutting method
As far as possible, cut, treat and insert the branches as you go. When cutting, do not damage the bark. Generally first use a small wooden stick 0.6-0.8cm (chopstick size) to poke 1 small hole in the cutting bed, then place the cutting into the hole. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the cutting length, and the plant and row spacing is 10cm x 15cm. After inserting, gently press the sand firm with your hand. When cutting, pay attention to maintaining the polarity of the cuttings, especially those without leaves, which must not be inserted upside down (keep the buds facing upward), otherwise the survival rate will be affected; those with leaves are best oriented so the leaves face one direction (a bright direction). After all are inserted, scatter a small amount of fine sand and water once thoroughly so that the cuttings and sand are closely combined.
Set up an arched shed, cover with white plastic film and a shade net. The plastic shed can regulate the temperature and humidity of the soil and air, and the shade net can prevent direct sunlight and lower the temperature. In addition to covering the top of the seedbed with a shade net, curtains should also be hung on the east and west sides of the seedbed to block light so as to reduce morning and evening sunlight exposure. The optimum temperature for rose rooting is 20-25degC. If the temperature is too high, in addition to covering with a shade net, water can also be applied to cool it and ventilation can be used to lower the temperature.
7. Post-cutting management
Temperature: after cutting it should not be too high; too high will cause the axillary buds of the cuttings to sprout quickly and grow into tender shoots. Inexperienced growers may think this is a good sign, but in fact it is a precursor to cutting failure, because rooting is what is needed; if new shoots sprout first, this consumes the nutrients of the branches, lightly affecting the rooting rate and seriously causing the death of the entire cutting. Therefore, in order to promote rooting, the temperature should be lowered as much as possible, generally controlled at 22-26degC, and the air temperature should be kept as close as possible to the soil temperature. When the temperature is too high, water can be applied on the shed or on the ground, and proper ventilation can also be used to lower the temperature.
Watering: in the early stage of cutting, water should not be supplied too much; generally watering once every 7-10d is enough. After 1 month, the cuttings begin to root and sprout, and water consumption gradually increases, so water should be applied once every 3-5d. The amount of watering should be determined according to soil moisture and air humidity, keeping the soil moderately dry and wet. The best moisture conditions after cutting: the field capacity of the seedbed should be maintained at about 80%, and the relative air humidity at 80%-90%. If humidity is too high, control the amount of watering and strengthen ventilation; if humidity is too low, increase the amount of watering and the frequency of spraying.
Weeding: promptly pull out weeds in the cutting bed, but do not disturb the seedlings.
8. Transplanting young seedlings
Under an ambient temperature of 22-26degC, the cuttings can root after about 1 month. At this time, the plastic film can be opened every morning and evening to ventilate the young seedlings, gradually extending their ventilation and light time so that the seedlings basically adapt to the external environmental conditions. After 7-10d in this way, the seedlings can be transplanted into a greenhouse or flower pots. The soil used for transplanting should be sandy loam without added fertilizer, otherwise it is easy to cause root rot in the seedlings. Water thoroughly 1d before transplanting. Note that the entire transplanting process must not be exposed to direct sunlight,
9. Seedling stage management
Potted rose seedlings should be maintained in a shade shed or other shady place for 7-10 days. During this period, water should be sprayed frequently to maintain moisture. For the first few days, receive some sunlight every morning and evening, and then gradually extend the sunlight exposure time. Because the root system of young seedlings is not very developed, do not rush to fertilize; at least after 3 weeks, apply dilute fertilizer water about every 10 days. Although rose seedlings survive, some growers always think the seedlings grow too slowly and, according to their own wishes, force the seedlings with topdressing. This practice must not be adopted, because rose seedlings go through a 1-2 month lag phase from branch collection, cutting, rooting and transplanting to entering the rapid growth stage. During this period, rose seedlings must gradually adapt to the external environment before they can grow rapidly. If growers force the seedlings with fertilizer according to their own wishes, things often turn out contrary to expectations, resulting in the death of the seedlings. After passing through the lag phase, rose seedlings naturally enter the rapid growth stage. At this time some plants will grow some flower buds; in order to avoid consuming nutrients, these flower buds should be cut off in time. After 1-2 of management, the rose seedlings can leave the nursery; at this time growers can transport them to the market for sale or transplant them to the field or larger flower pots as needed.
Rose cutting propagation techniques
Roses are plants of the genus Rosa in the family Rosaceae. Their flowers are graceful, brightly colored, richly fragrant, have a very long flowering period, and are widely adaptable. Together with chrysanthemums, carnations and gladioli, they are listed as the world's four major fresh cut flowers and are a major product of the world flower industry. Rose propagation is divided into 2 types: asexual propagation and sexual propagation. Sexual propagation is mostly used for breeding new varieties or producing rootstock. Asexual propagation includes methods such as cuttings, division, layering and tissue culture. Cutting propagation not only preserves the superior characteristics of the mother plant, but is also simple and easy to learn, propagates quickly, and has a high survival rate.
1 Cutting time
It can be done in both spring and autumn. In spring, from late April to the end of May, when the climate is mild and the branches are vigorous, roots can form 1 month after insertion, and the survival rate is high. Autumn cuttings are taken from late August to the end of October; at this time cuttings are greatly affected by the difference between day and night temperatures, rooting is relatively slow, requiring 40-50d to root, and the survival rate is slightly lower than that of spring cuttings.
2 Preparing the seedbed
2.1 Location: the cutting seedbed should be chosen in a place with deep soil, loose structure, good permeability, good drainage and air circulation.
2.2 Specifications: 1m wide and 3m long (it should be noted that seedbed size has little effect on the survival of cuttings and should be determined according to need; when large-scale propagation is needed, a slightly larger one may be chosen, and conversely a smaller one.
3 Substrate selection
Rose cuttings can also root when inserted directly into ordinary soil, but the survival rate is not high and it is not suitable for large-scale production. Therefore, fine sand is generally chosen as the substrate; the fine sand is best unused. To prevent the cuttings from rotting during rooting, formaldehyde can be added to the fine sand at 5ml/m3, and the fine sand should be spread out on clean ground to sun and turned about 3 times to let the formaldehyde completely volatilize; after 3-5d the bed can be filled. Russian olive seed sowing and seedling raising techniques: when filling with fine sand, it should be evenly spread on the seedbed, lightly compacted, and watered once thoroughly; while the water has not dried, use a wooden block to gently scrape the sand surface level.
4 Harvesting branches
Choose vigorous annual healthy branches from the upper part of plants that are growing vigorously and free of pests and diseases (powdery mildew and black spot). Branches that are too old or too tender are both bad and affect the survival rate; branches whose flowers have just faded are best. After cutting the branches, to prevent powdery mildew and sooty mold during the cutting process, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 1000 times solution.
5 Cutting treatment
When too many branches have been harvested, they should be soaked in water or stacked under a shade shed (water should be sprayed frequently to maintain moisture).
Prune the harvested branches: first cut off the faded flowers on the upper part of the branches, select the middle and lower parts of the branches, and cut them into sections of about 10cm each as 1 cutting, retaining 3-4 axillary buds on each. Do not keep leaves, or keep only 1-2 leaves at the top, to prevent loss of water and nutrients from the cuttings, facilitate rooting, and control the growth of branches and leaves. Cut the upper end of the cutting into a flat opening and the lower end into a slanted opening, with the cut about several millimeters from the axillary bud. The cut should be smooth so as to form callus tissue and facilitate rooting; it must not be cut askew, otherwise it will be difficult to root and form young plants. The collected branches should be cut as soon as possible, generally completed within 1-2h.
6 Cutting method
As far as possible, cut, treat and insert the branches as you go. When cutting, do not damage the bark. Generally first use a small wooden stick 0.6-0.8cm (chopstick size) to poke 1 small hole in the cutting bed, then place the cutting into the hole. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the cutting length, and the plant and row spacing is 10cm×15cm. After inserting, gently press the sand firm with your hand. When cutting, pay attention to maintaining the polarity of the cuttings, especially those without leaves, which must not be inserted upside down (keep the buds facing upward), otherwise the survival rate will be affected; those with leaves are best oriented so the leaves face one direction (a bright direction). After all are inserted, scatter a small amount of fine sand and water once thoroughly so that the cuttings and sand are closely combined.
Set up an arched shed, cover with white plastic film and a shade net. The plastic shed can regulate the temperature and humidity of the soil and air, and the shade net can prevent direct sunlight and lower the temperature. In addition to covering the top of the seedbed with a shade net, curtains should also be hung on the east and west sides of the seedbed to block light so as to reduce morning and evening sunlight exposure. The optimum temperature for rose rooting is 20-25degC. If the temperature is too high, in addition to covering with a shade net, water can also be applied to cool it and ventilation can be used to lower the temperature.
7 Post-cutting management
7.1 Temperature: after cutting it should not be too high; too high will cause the axillary buds of the cuttings to sprout quickly and grow into tender shoots. Inexperienced growers may think this is a good sign, but in fact it is a precursor to cutting failure, because rooting is what is needed; if new shoots sprout first, this consumes the nutrients of the branches, lightly affecting the rooting rate and seriously causing the death of the entire cutting. Therefore, in order to promote rooting, the temperature should be lowered as much as possible, generally controlled at 22-26degC, and the air temperature should be kept as close as possible to the soil temperature. When the temperature is too high, water can be applied on the shed or on the ground, and proper ventilation can also be used to lower the temperature.
7.2 Watering: in the early stage of cutting, water should not be supplied too much; generally watering once every 7-10d is enough. After 1 month, the cuttings begin to root and sprout, and water consumption gradually increases, so water should be applied once every 3-5d. The amount of watering should be determined according to soil moisture and air humidity, keeping the soil moderately dry and wet. The best moisture conditions after cutting: the field capacity of the seedbed should be maintained at about 80%, and the relative air humidity at 80%-90%. If humidity is too high, control the amount of watering and strengthen ventilation; if humidity is too low, increase the amount of watering and the frequency of spraying.
7.3 Weeding: promptly pull out weeds in the cutting bed, but do not disturb the seedlings.
8 Transplanting young seedlings
Under an ambient temperature of 22-26degC, the cuttings can root after about 1 month. At this time, the plastic film can be opened every morning and evening to ventilate the young seedlings, gradually extending their ventilation and light time so that the seedlings basically adapt to the external environmental conditions. After 7-10d in this way, the seedlings can be transplanted into a greenhouse or flower pots. The soil used for transplanting should be sandy loam without added fertilizer, otherwise it is easy to cause root rot in the seedlings. Water thoroughly 1d before transplanting. Note that the entire transplanting process must not be exposed to direct sunlight,
9 Seedling stage management
Potted rose seedlings should be maintained in a shade shed or other shady place for 7-10d. During this period, water should be sprayed frequently to maintain moisture. For the first few days, receive some sunlight every morning and evening, and then gradually extend the sunlight exposure time. Because the root system of young seedlings is not very developed, do not rush to fertilize; at least after 3 weeks, apply dilute fertilizer water about every 10d. Although rose seedlings survive, some growers always think the seedlings grow too slowly and, according to their own wishes, force the seedlings with topdressing. This practice must not be adopted, because rose seedlings go through a 1-2 month lag phase from branch collection, cutting, rooting and transplanting to entering the rapid growth stage. During this period, rose seedlings must gradually adapt to the external environment before they can grow rapidly. If growers force the seedlings with fertilizer according to their own wishes, things often turn out contrary to expectations, resulting in the death of the seedlings. After passing through the lag phase, rose seedlings naturally enter the rapid growth stage. At this time some plants will grow some flower buds; in order to avoid consuming nutrients, these flower buds should be cut off in time. After 1-2 of management, the rose seedlings can leave the nursery; at this time growers can transport them to the market for sale or transplant them to the field or larger flower pots as needed.
Rose cutting propagation techniques in southern regions
When is a good time to propagate roses by cuttings in southern regions? Roses can be propagated by cuttings in both spring and autumn. In spring, it is done from April to May; during this period the temperature is gradually rising, and generally roots will form 30 days after cutting, with a high cutting survival rate. Autumn cuttings are taken from August to October; at this time the difference between day and night temperatures is large, rooting after cutting is relatively slow, generally requiring 40-50 days to root, and the survival rate is slightly lower than that of spring cuttings.
1 Preparing the seedbed
1.1 Location: choose a place with deep soil, loose structure, good permeability, good drainage and air circulation.
1.2 Specifications: 1 m wide and 3 m long, specifically determined according to need.
2 Substrate selection
Although rose cuttings can also root when inserted directly into ordinary soil, the survival rate is not high, so fine sand (best unused) is generally chosen as the substrate. At the same time, to prevent the cuttings from rotting during rooting, formaldehyde can be added to the fine sand at 5 ml/m 3, and the fine sand should be spread out on clean ground to sun and turned 3 times to let the formaldehyde completely volatilize; after 3-5 days the bed can be filled. When filling with fine sand, it should be evenly spread on the seedbed, then lightly compacted and watered once thoroughly; while the water has not dried, use a wooden block to gently scrape the sand surface level.
3 Harvesting branches
Choose vigorous annual healthy branches from the upper part of plants that are growing vigorously and free of pests and diseases; branches whose flowers have just faded are best. After cutting the branches, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 1000 times solution to prevent powdery mildew and sooty mold during the cutting process.
4 Cutting treatment
When too many branches have been harvested, they should be soaked in water or stacked under a shade shed. For the harvested branches, first cut off the faded flowers on the upper part of the branches, select the middle and lower parts of the branches, and cut them into sections of about 10 em each as 1 cutting. Cut the upper end of the cutting into a flat opening and the lower end into a slanted opening, with the cut about several millimeters from the axillary bud. The cut is required to be smooth, which is beneficial for wound healing.
5 Cutting method
As far as possible, cut, treat and insert the branches as you go. When cutting, first use a small wooden stick 0.6-0.8 cm to poke 1 small hole in the cutting bed, then place the cutting into the hole. The insertion depth is 1/3 of the cutting length, and the plant and row spacing is 10 cm X 15 cm. After inserting, gently press firm with your hand. After all are inserted, scatter a small amount of fine sand and water thoroughly.
6 Post-cutting management
6.1 Temperature: after cutting it should not be too high, because too high a temperature will cause the axillary buds of the cuttings to sprout quickly and grow into tender shoots, which is a precursor to cutting failure. Therefore, in order to promote rooting, the temperature should be lowered, preferably controlled within the range of 22-26 degrees. When the temperature is too high, the temperature can be lowered by watering on the shed or on the ground, or by proper ventilation.
6.2 Watering: in the early stage of cutting, generally watering once every 7-10 days is enough. After 30 days the cuttings will begin to root and sprout; at this time water consumption is large, so watering can be increased, generally once every 3-5 days. The amount of watering should be determined according to soil moisture and air humidity, keeping the soil moderately dry and wet. The best moisture conditions after cutting are: the field capacity of the seedbed should be maintained at about 80%, and the relative air humidity at 80-90%. When humidity is too high, it can be reduced by controlling the amount of watering and strengthening ventilation; when humidity is too low, it can be increased by increasing the amount of watering and the frequency of spraying.
6.3 Weeding: promptly pull out weeds in the cutting bed, but do not disturb the seedlings.
7 Transplanting young seedlings
Under an ambient temperature of 22-26% conditions, the cuttings can root after 1 month. At this time, the plastic film should be opened every morning and evening to ventilate the young seedlings, increasing their ventilation and light time; after about 7-10 days, the seedlings can be transplanted into a greenhouse or flower pots. Note that the seedlings should be watered thoroughly one day before transplanting.
8 Seedling stage management
Potted rose seedlings should be maintained in a shade shed or other shady place for 7-10d. During this period, water should be sprayed frequently to maintain moisture. For the first few days, receive some sunlight every morning and evening, and then gradually extend the sunlight exposure time. Because the root system of young seedlings is not very developed, do not rush to fertilize; at least after 3 weeks, apply dilute fertilizer water about every 10d. Although rose seedlings survive, some growers always think the seedlings grow too slowly and, according to their own wishes, force the seedlings with topdressing. This practice must not be adopted, because rose seedlings go through a 1-2 month lag phase from branch collection, cutting, rooting and transplanting to entering the rapid growth stage. During this period, rose seedlings must gradually adapt to the external environment before they can grow rapidly. If growers force the seedlings with fertilizer according to their own wishes, things often turn out contrary to expectations, resulting in the death of the seedlings. After passing through the lag phase, rose seedlings naturally enter the rapid growth stage. At this time some plants will grow some flower buds; in order to avoid consuming nutrients, these flower buds should be cut off in time. After 1-2 of management, the rose seedlings can leave the nursery; at this time growers can transport them to the market for sale or transplant them to the field or larger flower pots as needed.