Detailed Guide to Cutting Propagation of Euonymus japonicus

Euonymus japonicus stays green all year round and has strong adaptability, making it one of the indispensable evergreen tree species for urban greening in northern China. In recent years, using full-light mist propagation technology for softwood cuttings, the survival rate can reach over 95%.

I. Propagation facilities and cutting bed: A seedbed about 20 cm high and cm wide is built with bricks and cement, filled with 18 cm thick substrate; the lower layer of the substrate is 5-8 cm thick coarse sand, and the upper layer is fine sand. A water pipe is installed at a height of 50 cm above the bed surface, with a centrifugal or four-body nozzle installed every 1.5 m on the pipe for misting. Before cutting, the seedbed is disinfected with 0.3% potassium permanganate solution.

II. Material collection and processing: Cutting can be carried out from June to October. Cutting collection and trimming: From the middle and upper parts and outer periphery of the Euonymus japonicus crown, cut healthy, pest-free, current-year semi-lignified softwood shoots; after collecting, place them indoors or in a cool place, then cut them into 7-10 cm long cuttings with a flat top end and a slanted bottom end; keep 2 leaves on the upper part of the cutting, remove the remaining leaves to reduce water evaporation, and remove overly tender shoot tips.

III. Cutting and cutting bed management: Use cuttings as soon as they are cut; before inserting, they can be quickly dipped in naphthaleneacetic acid solution, or inserted directly. The insertion depth is 2/3 of the cutting length, and the planting density is 60-70 plants/m2. After insertion, spray the substrate thoroughly with 800-1000 times carbendazim solution for disinfection. After the seedbed is fully planted, mist immediately; on sunny days, mist twice daily in the morning and afternoon, and once every half hour at noon; in hot summer, increase the number of mistings as needed to lower the temperature.

One week after cutting, callus tissue can form; after about 20 days, 90% have produced new roots. After rooting, reduce the frequency of misting to prevent root rot, and additionally spray 0.2%-0.3% urea or compound fertilizer water for foliar feeding to promote robust growth of the cuttings.

One month after cutting, gradually open and remove the plastic film so the plants gradually adapt to the open-field environment; after one month, the new roots' degree of lignification increases, and transplanting can be carried out. When transplanting, try to keep the root system intact and water immediately after planting to ensure transplant survival. With this method, Euonymus japonicus seedlings can be propagated by cuttings 3 times a year, greatly shortening the seedling-raising cycle and improving seedling quality.

Huinong Classroom has more related agricultural technology knowledge; keep following Huinong Classroom for answers to your planting questions.

Technique for Rapid Autumn Propagation of Euonymus japonicus

Euonymus japonicus is an evergreen shrub of the Celastraceae family, with dark green and glossy leaves; it is often used as a hedge in landscaping, and demand for greening increases year by year. Because North China is mostly dry and hot in spring and summer and severely cold in winter, it is unfavorable for Euonymus japonicus propagation and seedling raising. The author has repeatedly tested rapid autumn propagation techniques over many years, achieving autumn propagation, spring transplanting the following year, and producing commercial saplings in one year, creating relatively good economic benefits. The experience is described as follows:

I. Cutting time: It is suitable from the end of August to early October, preferably in mid-to-late September, when new shoots have stopped growing, branches contain more nutrients, tissue meristematic capacity is relatively strong, soil temperature and air humidity are suitable, and post-cutting management is simple and rooting is easy.

II. Cutting bed preparation: It is best to use fallow land that has been deeply plowed in summer as the seedbed; make a flat bed 120 cm wide, with a 30 cm path, and 6 to 7 m long. Build a semicircular shade shed 1.8 m above the bed surface with a light transmittance of 50%-70%.

III. Cutting collection and pruning: Collect one-year-old branches from vigorously growing, pest-free plants, wrap them in wet burlap, and transport them back for processing. Cut the collected Euonymus branches into 10-15 cm long cuttings, keep 2 leaves on the upper part, and remove the rest. Cut the top end flat and the base at a slant.

IV. Cutting: Before cutting, water the seedbed thoroughly; while the seedbed is moist, insert the lower 2/3 of the cuttings into the seedbed at a spacing of 3 x 5 cm; after inserting, water thoroughly again and cover with a shade net.

V. Post-cutting management

1. Watering: Water once every 3 to 5 days, keeping the seedbed moist regularly. In early October, most seedlings begin to root, and the number of waterings gradually decreases.

2. Film covering: In late October, remove the original shade net, water thoroughly once for overwintering, and replace with overwintering film. Before heavy snow and freezing, compact the soil around the plastic film to keep it warm. Because the underground temperature of the seedbed is relatively higher and the surface temperature is relatively lower, the cuttings grow few or no shoots in winter, promoting root development of the seedlings. At the same time, do a good job of weeding and watering inside the shed so the seedlings overwinter safely.

3. Early spring management: In early March, when the temperature rises, water promptly to promote green-up. Along with watering, apply 5 to 10 kg of urea per mu. In mid-March, remove the plastic film, clear weeds, and strengthen comprehensive management.

VI. Seedling transplanting

1. Transplanting time: Generally in late March and early April, when the survival rate is relatively high.

2. Transplanting beds: In a nursery field that has been deeply plowed and prepared, make transplanting beds 1.5 m wide (including bed ridges) and about 10 m long; along the long side, open furrows 10 cm deep every 30 cm, and place seedlings at a plant spacing of 15 to 20 cm. Cover with soil while watering to firm the roots. After transplanting, water fully and keep moist.

3. Careful management: The transplanted saplings are relatively small, so careful management is needed, with timely watering, loosening of soil, and weeding to promote rapid growth. When the saplings reach 20 cm in height, pinch the tips to encourage more branching.

Rapid Propagation Technique for Euonymus japonicus

Rapid Propagation Technique for Euonymus japonicus.

- Propagation -

1. Cutting time

The traditional cutting period in the north is mostly from late October to early November, that is, dormant-season cutting. Because the cutting season is late and the temperature is low, roots cannot form in the same year; they must root the following spring before transplanting, and the transplanting time is correspondingly delayed, resulting in a short growth period and small growth increment in the year of transplanting. The seedlings must grow in the nursery until the spring and autumn of the fourth year before they can become saleable seedlings and leave the nursery, that is, from cutting propagation to leaving the nursery takes 2.5-3 years.

To raise seedlings quickly and shorten the seedling-raising cycle, we changed the cutting time, namely carrying it out during the growing season (May to early October is acceptable). Cuttings made from May to August can be transplanted in the same year; cuttings made from August to early October can be transplanted early after the soil thaws the following spring, extending the growth period in the year of transplanting, resulting in a large growth increment and laying the foundation for rapid seedling formation. In short, the practice of early cutting, early transplanting, and early leaving the nursery shortens the time required compared with traditional dormant-season cutting propagation by half a year to one and a half years. The entire process of growing-season cutting propagation takes about one and a half to two years, and because propagation can be carried out in batches and stages from May to early October, it eases the tight supply-demand situation for seedlings and basically ensures year-round supply of seedlings.

2. Key technical points of cutting

Lay out the seedbed in a high, dry location, 1.2-1.5 m wide, with length determined by the site and the number of seedlings needed; after leveling and removing debris, spread clean river sand about 20 cm thick on top, and spray thoroughly with 0.3% potassium permanganate solution to disinfect the sand bed. Cuttings used in growing-season cutting should be robust and pest-free; use branches at or above the semi-lignified level, cut into 10-15 cm lengths, remove the middle and lower leaves, and retain robust mature leaves in the middle and upper parts. After cutting, soak the base of the cuttings in 100 mg/kg indolebutyric acid solution for 4-6 hours, or quickly dip them in 500 mg/kg indolebutyric acid solution to promote rooting. Use a thin bamboo stick or steel bar to make holes in the prepared sand bed at a spacing of 4-5 cm, then insert the treated cuttings into the holes to a depth of 1/2-1/3 of the cutting length, and press the sand around the cuttings firmly by hand so that the two are in close contact, facilitating later water uptake. After cutting is completed, water or spray the sand bed thoroughly, then build an arched shed with plastic film over it, and shade the film above with bamboo blinds, reed blinds, shade nets, or similar materials.

3. Post-cutting management

After cutting, maintain the air humidity inside the arched shed at about 80%-90%; the sand moisture should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses at a touch, with a water content of about 60-80%; control the temperature below 35°C, with 25-30°C being suitable. After about 30-40 days, when the cuttings have rooted relatively completely and fully, gradually ventilate and remove the shading materials to harden the seedlings; after about 10-15 days, transplanting and planting can be carried out.

- Transplanting -

It is suitable to choose a cloudy day or before a rainy day for transplanting and planting. Seedlings that have not undergone long-term storage and transport can be transplanted bare-rooted without a soil ball, at a density of 20 x 25 cm. After transplanting, water thoroughly immediately; the second and third waterings are crucial to seedling survival, especially for transplanting in the high-temperature summer season. According to the weather and soil moisture conditions, the time for the second watering can be within 3-7 days after the first watering.

- Key cultivation points during the growing season -

1. Strengthen fertilizer and water management

When transplanting seedlings, apply an appropriate amount of decomposed organic fertilizer in combination with land preparation; if conditions do not permit, apply crushed straw, and apply about 7 kg of urea per 666.7 square meters; during the growing season, topdress with 8 kg urea, 3 kg potassium dihydrogen phosphate, etc. Fertilization should be combined with watering. After September, control heavy watering and stop applying nitrogen fertilizer to promote seedling fullness and robustness and prevent late-season excessive vegetative growth, which can cause branch dieback in winter and spring. Before the soil freezes, water thoroughly with antifreeze water to prepare for overwintering; before spring sprouting, water thoroughly with sprouting water to facilitate spring shoot growth. In addition, to benefit seedling growth, water-saving and drought-resistant cultivation can be carried out on the soil, and fertilizer and water management during the seedling growth period should follow the principle of promoting early and controlling late.

2. Pruning

Commercial seedlings are required to have both a certain height (generally more than 60 cm) and a certain number of branches (generally 5-7 relatively long branches per plant) and a certain crown width, so reasonable shaping and pruning during the seedling stage must be strengthened. After transplanting, pinch the tips of plants with fewer than 4 branches to promote side buds to sprout into long branches; for branches that grow too long and too vigorously in spring and summer, remove the tips and pinch at any time to balance the growth vigor of the whole plant's branches; after entering September, pinch the tips of branches that have not capped and stopped growing, in order to control elongation growth, promote branch fullness, and improve the overall nutrient accumulation level of the plant, which is beneficial for overwintering and freeze protection as well as sprouting, branching, and leaf expansion the following spring; before growth begins in spring, shorten plants with fewer than 4 long branches to stimulate side buds to sprout and grow into long branches.