Methods for Cutting Propagation of Buddhist Pine and Its Cultivation and Application Techniques
Buddhist pine, also known as Luohan pine, Luohan cedar, and Luohan cypress, belongs to the genus Podocarpus in the family Podocarpaceae. It originated in the hilly regions of the Southern Hemisphere. In China, it is mainly distributed in Jiangsu, Anhui, Jiangxi and other provinces south of the Yangtze River. It is not very cold-tolerant and has a relatively long lifespan. It prefers sunlight and is slightly shade-tolerant. Its climate requirements are mild and humid conditions, and it is not highly tolerant of severe cold. In summer, direct strong sunlight or west-facing exposure should be avoided. In northern regions, Buddhist pine can only be grown as a potted plant. Its soil requirements are: loose, fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Because the branches and leaves of Buddhist pine are relatively dense, with a peculiar, graceful and elegant form, it can be used as an excellent foliage tree species in gardens, temples and courtyards. At the same time, Buddhist pine has very small leaves and is relatively tolerant of pruning, making it relatively easy to shape into various forms, so it is often used for bonsai creation.
In recent years, urban and rural greening construction has developed rapidly, and the demand for Buddhist pine seedlings has been growing. If seed propagation is used to cultivate Buddhist pine seedlings, not only is the technique relatively complex and time-consuming, but it also rapidly degrades the superior traits of the mother plant. However, using cutting propagation techniques can avoid this shortcoming. Therefore, cutting propagation is often used in the actual production of Buddhist pine seedlings. The cutting propagation and cultivation application techniques of Buddhist pine are summarized as follows.
1. Cutting Propagation Techniques of Buddhist Pine
1.1 Selection of Nursery Site
Before cutting, a suitable nursery site should be selected. Generally, the nursery site should have loose and breathable soil, fertile soil quality, convenient transportation, and good drainage and irrigation conditions. For the choice of cutting substrate, perlite, river sand, and soil are all acceptable
1.2 Preparation of Facilities and Seedbeds
For cutting propagation, a single-span greenhouse is generally chosen, and the greenhouse should be covered with a slightly thinner plastic film, with 1 layer of shade netting added on the outside. After leveling the ground inside the greenhouse, the cutting seedbed can be prepared. The width of the cutting seedbed is generally controlled at around 100 cm, and baffles should be installed around the perimeter with a height controlled at 10-12 cm. To facilitate drainage, a layer of fine sand should be spread at the bottom of the cutting seedbed. For the choice of cutting substrate, peat, clean yellow subsoil mixed with fine sand, etc. are suitable. To prevent the occurrence of pests and diseases, fungicides and insecticides should be selected to disinfect the seedbed and substrate.
1.3 Cutting
The cutting time can be chosen in early March, early June, and early September. The length of cuttings should be controlled at 4-6 cm, and 1-2 healthy and vigorous leaves should be retained. If the leaves are too long or too large, they should be cut short to about 4 cm. Before cutting, the cuttings should be treated with a certain concentration of rooting agent. The cutting depth should not be too deep, generally controlled at around 3 cm. For cutting density, 400 plants/m2 is preferable. After cutting is completed, water should be applied promptly, and it must be watered sufficiently and thoroughly. Carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl 800 times solution should be sprayed on the leaf surface. A shade frame should be erected over the seedbed, and water should be applied frequently along with leaf surface water spraying to keep the soil moist. Under careful management, cuttings can take root in about 90 d. Autumn cutting is carried out in July-August, using semi-lignified young branches as cuttings, with the rest the same as spring cutting. In winter, plastic film covering is needed to help prevent cold damage.
1.4 Post-Cutting Management
During the period from cutting to the emergence of root buds, Buddhist pine should be protected from exposure to the sun. Timely shading should be provided, ensuring the shading rate exceeds 75%. About 15 d after cutting, some cuttings may begin to produce roots, and the water content in the substrate should be appropriately reduced, generally controlled at around 40%. When more than 50% of the cuttings have rooted, the film can be gradually opened for ventilation, ensuring the shading rate is below 50%. When all cuttings of Buddhist pine have rooted and more than 50% have produced leaves, in order to provide sufficient sunlight, the shade netting and film on the greenhouse should be gradually removed to begin hardening the seedlings. After the roots of the seedlings grow, generally when the root length exceeds 3 cm, they can be moved to the shade area for hardening. Small Buddhist pine seedlings are prone to frost damage during the rooting stage, so it is best to place them in a greenhouse for overwintering, and the water supply can also be reduced without applying any fertilizer. During high temperatures in summer, place them in a shade frame.
1.5 Fertilizer and Water Management
After cutting, foliar fertilization should be carried out frequently, which can be combined with pesticide spraying for disease prevention. After Buddhist pine forms callus tissue and grows young roots, nitrogen fertilizer solution can be selected for spraying. From the production of a large number of roots to before transplanting, the spraying concentration of nitrogen fertilizer can be appropriately increased. In terms of water management, the principle of alternating dry and wet should be followed.
1.6 Pest and Disease Control
After cutting, pest and disease control should be carried out promptly. Thiophanate-methyl and carbendazim 800 times solution should be sprayed in a timely manner, generally once every 5-7 d. If rain occurs, fungicides should be sprayed promptly after the rain. During the cutting period, Buddhist pine is prone to anthracnose, aphids, moths and other pests and diseases. For the control of anthracnose, mancozeb, anthracnose Fumei, chlorothalonil and other agents should be selected periodically for control. For the control of insect pests, imidacloprid, beta-cypermethrin and other agents can be selected for control.
2. Production and Maintenance Techniques of Buddhist Pine Bonsai
2.1 Potting
Buddhist pine is generally best planted in purple clay ceramic pots, but glazed ceramic pots can also be used. The shape requirements for the pot are basically the same as those for five-needle pine, but slightly deeper. The potting soil for Buddhist pine should be fertile, moist, loose in texture, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy loam. Mountain soil or humus soil mixed with sand is commonly used. The best time for potting is before budding in spring from March to April. Buddhist pine seedlings dug from the ground should retain native soil, and care should be taken to cut off dead roots and spread out the fibrous roots. When planting, prevent the potting soil from not being in firm contact with the root system. The position requirements for planting in the pot are also roughly the same as those for five-needle pine.
Purple Clay Ceramic Pot
2.2 Shaping
The styling of Buddhist pine bonsai is mainly based on wiring and bending, which can also be combined with appropriate pruning. Wiring and bending processing is best carried out during the dormant period. Palm fiber tying is mostly used, and attention should be paid to the tying method so that the palm fiber does not show, striving for a natural posture with a crooked trunk and contorted branches. Branches and leaves are shaped into layered pads using the pruning method. Buddhist pine is very tolerant of pruning, especially the sparrow's tongue Buddhist pine, which has dense branches and small leaves and can be processed into various forms. Nowadays, for the convenience of wiring and bending, metal wire is also often used to wrap around when bending branches. After the wiring and bending have taken shape, the palm fiber or metal wire should be removed promptly to prevent wire from becoming embedded. During the processing and shaping of Buddhist pine, the roots can also be gradually raised year by year through repotting to create a posture of exposed suspended roots and claws. In addition, rocks can be attached to create a posture of eagle claws embracing a stone.
2.3 Bonsai Maintenance Management
Buddhist pine should be placed in a warm, humid, semi-shaded and semi-sunny location. In winter, in areas where the temperature is below 0 °C, it needs to be moved indoors. During high temperatures in summer, attention should be paid to erecting a shade frame. Buddhist pine should be kept with moist potting soil but without water accumulation. In summer, it is best to frequently spray leaf surface water to maintain fresh green leaf color. Buddhist pine is best fertilized with organic fertilizers such as cake fertilizer and manure. Fertilization should preferably be carried out in spring, and do not apply too much or too concentrated [4]. Do not fertilize in autumn, otherwise autumn buds will sprout and be prone to frost damage. Buddhist pine can be pruned at any time, mainly to shorten excessive growth branches and maintain a certain tree shape. When flowering, it is best to remove the flowers promptly to prevent fruiting from affecting tree vigor. Buddhist pine bonsai should be repotted once every 3-4 years, preferably before budding in spring from March to April. When repotting, remove about 1/2 of the old soil. Cut off dead roots, spread out the fibrous roots, and plant into a larger pot with fertile, loose humus soil to promote growth.
Selected from -- Forestry Station of Gangkou Town, Ningguo City, Anhui Province, Ningguo, Anhui, Wang Aihong
Morphological Characteristics of Buddhist Pine, Propagation Methods and Uses of Buddhist Pine
Buddhist pine is a type of pine tree, also known as Luohan cedar, evergreen Luohan cedar, tu cedar, golden larch, immortal cypress, Luohan cypress, and Jiangnan cypress. It is an evergreen tree that can reach up to 18 meters in height and is usually pruned to remain low. The leaves are alternate and arranged in a spiral pattern. It is also dioecious. The seed receptacle is larger than the seed and turns red when mature. Together with the green seed, it resembles a bald monk wearing a red monk's robe, hence the name Buddhist pine. Buddhist pine is commonly found in southern China, including the Hong Kong area. Because potted Buddhist pine is ornamental, and its wood is used for construction, medicine and carving, its value is very high. Therefore, there have been multiple incidents of Buddhist pine in Hong Kong, China being illegally felled by illegal immigrants from the mainland.
Morphological Characteristics of Buddhist Pine
Branches
Buddhist pine (the original variety) is a tree, up to 20 meters tall, with a diameter at breast height of up to 60 cm. The bark is gray or grayish-brown, shallowly longitudinally fissured, and peels off in thin flakes. The branches spread out or extend obliquely, relatively densely.
Leaves
The leaves of Buddhist pine are spirally arranged, linear-lanceolate, slightly curved, 7-12 cm long and 7-10 mm wide, with pointed tips and wedge-shaped bases. The upper surface is dark green and glossy, with the midrib distinctly raised. The lower surface is whitish, grayish-green or pale green, with the midrib slightly raised.
Flowers
The male strobili of Buddhist pine are spike-shaped and axillary, usually 3-5 clustered on a very short peduncle, 3-5 cm long, with several triangular bracts at the base. The female strobili are solitary in leaf axils, stalked, with a few bracts at the base.
Seeds
The seeds of Buddhist pine are ovoid, about 1 cm in diameter, with a rounded apex. When mature, the fleshy aril is purple-black with a white bloom. The seed receptacle is fleshy and cylindrical, red or purplish-red, with a stalk 1-1.5 cm long.
Flowering period is April-May, and seeds mature in August-September.
Ecological Habits of Buddhist Pine
Buddhist pine prefers a warm and humid climate, has weak cold tolerance, and is grown as a potted ornamental in North China. It has strong shade tolerance. It prefers well-drained, moist sandy loam and has strong adaptability to soil, able to survive even on saline-alkali soil. It has relatively strong resistance to various polluting gases such as sulfur dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, and nitrogen oxides. It also has strong resistance to pests and diseases.
Cultivation Techniques of Buddhist Pine
It prefers a warm, humid and semi-shaded environment, has slightly poor cold tolerance, and fears waterlogging and direct strong sunlight. It requires fertile, well-drained sandy loam. Transplanting is best done in spring from March to April. Small seedlings need to be kept with soil, and large seedlings with soil balls. It can also be potted. After planting, water thoroughly. Keep the soil moist during the growing period. During the hot summer season, it should be placed in a semi-shaded area for maintenance. Fertilize once every 2 months. In winter, pay attention to cold protection for potted plants. The pot can be buried in the soil, and watering should be reduced.
Key Management Points
Light
Buddhist pine is a neutral to slightly shade-loving tree species. It can accept relatively strong light and can also grow in a more shaded environment. Although summer temperatures are high and sunlight is intense, since large Buddhist pine trees benefit from high temperature and strong light in maintaining their tree posture and leaf shape, it is not necessary to shade large Buddhist pine trees in summer. However, small Buddhist pine seedlings, due to their tender tissues, should not be exposed to prolonged strong light, and it is recommended to place them under tree shade for maintenance.
Watering
Buddhist pine is not a plant of the pine family and is not drought-tolerant. On the contrary, Buddhist pine is tolerant of shade and moisture, and attention should be paid to frequent watering during the growing period, but it should not be waterlogged. In the Shunde area, during sunny summer days, attention should be paid to frequent watering, generally once in the morning and once in the evening. In addition, leaf surface water should be sprayed frequently to keep the leaves fresh green and growing well. Summer rainfall is usually relatively abundant, and Buddhist pine is not waterlogging-tolerant, so attention should be paid to preventing prolonged water accumulation.
Fertilization
Buddhist pine likes fertilizer and should be fertilized with thin applications frequently. Nitrogen fertilizer is the main type, and an appropriate amount of black alum can be added and composted into alum fertilizer water. During the growing period, fertilize once every 1-2 months. Fertilization can be carried out simultaneously with watering (water-to-fertilizer ratio of 9:1). For large-area Buddhist pine plantings, the semi-circular trench application method can be used, applying 300-500 grams of quick-soluble compound fertilizer each time. For potted plants, spray water fertilizer containing 0.5%-1.0% compound fertilizer or thin cake liquid fertilizer each time.
Propagation Methods of Buddhist Pine
Buddhist pine is commonly propagated by sowing and cutting. For sowing, seeds are collected in August and sown immediately, germinating in about 10 days. For cutting, it is carried out in spring and autumn. In spring, dormant branches are selected; in autumn, semi-lignified young branches are selected, 12-15 cm, inserted into a seedbed of half sand and half soil, rooting in about 50-60 days.
Softwood Cutting
Softwood cutting refers to the cutting method of using semi-mature branches of the current year as cuttings during the growing season of seedlings. It is mainly suitable for evergreen and semi-evergreen woody flowering plants, such as camellia, azalea, golden-leaf privet, osmanthus, Buddhist pine, red photinia, yew, pittosporum, rose, cedar, cypress, etc. For individual deciduous trees that are difficult to root, such as ginkgo, softwood cutting is also suitable. The specific operation method of softwood cutting is: during the vigorous growth season of seedlings, cut semi-lignified branches of the current year, dividing them into sections of 2 to 4 nodes (one leaf or one pair of leaves counts as one node), each section about 10 cm long, retaining 1 to 2 leaves on top and removing 1 to 2 leaves from the bottom. For tree species with large leaves such as camellia, osmanthus, and photinia, the leaves can be cut off by 1/2. Then cut or sharpen the lower end of the cutting into a slanted opening. Then tie the cuttings in bundles of several dozen with string. Finally, evenly coat the cuttings with mud slurry made from clean loess mixed with fungicide, rooting agent and water. After the mud slurry dries slightly, they can be inserted into the prepared seedbed for cutting. Softwood cutting requires the seedbed soil to be fine, loose, and level, while removing weeds and other impurities, and spraying, disinfecting, and insecticide-treating the soil. The cutting depth is about 5 cm. After cutting is completed, sprinkle water thoroughly. After the water droplets on the leaf surface of the cuttings dry, immediately spray pesticide again on the seedbed for sterilization and insect killing. Then insert bamboo arches, cover with plastic film, and then insert some more bamboo arches, covering the bamboo arches with black shade netting. Both the film and shade netting should be secured well. The bamboo arches supporting the shade netting should be 15 cm to 20 cm higher than the bamboo arches supporting the film to prevent the heat from the shade netting from transferring into the film and scalding the seedlings. At this point, the cutting work is all completed.
After cutting is completed, the seedbed should be frequently inspected and cared for, checking whether the film and shade netting covering the seedbed have been bitten through by insects or rats, or blown open by wind. Uncover the film and shade netting to inspect once every 15 days or so, and spray pesticide for sterilization and insect killing, then re-cover the film and shade netting. If the seedbed soil is found to be dry, sprinkle some water before spraying pesticide, and spray pesticide after the leaf surface water dries. Generally, after uncovering the film and spraying pesticide 2 to 3 times, the cuttings have already rooted and survived. After that, pesticide can be applied once every 1 to 2 months. After the cuttings survive, removing the film can be considered. Before formally removing the film, choose a cloudy and rainy day, first uncover the film at one or both ends of the seedbed for ventilation and hardening for several days, then remove all the film. After removing the film, the shade netting should still be kept in place. For seedlings cut in the first half of the year, the shade netting should remain covered until late autumn before it can be removed, because young seedlings cannot withstand strong sunlight exposure. It is particularly worth mentioning that golden-leaf privet and golden privet are seedlings prone to disease, and the film should be removed promptly. Generally, about 20 days after cutting, when about 90% have rooted, hardening and film removal can begin. After removing the film, spray a fungicide immediately for disease prevention, spraying once every 7 to 10 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive times.
For softwood cutting, in the first half of the year it is generally carried out from mid-to-late May to early July, and in the second half of the year from mid-to-late August to mid-to-late September. Seedlings cut in the first half of the year should be protected from high-temperature scorching and disease occurrence. Seedlings cut in the second half of the year should be protected from cold and frost in the middle and later stages. The time to remove the shade netting is late November. In drought years, the time to remove the shade netting can be extended to late December.
Hardwood Cutting
Hardwood cutting refers to the method of cutting fully lignified sturdy branches from the previous year during the dormant stage in early spring from February to March before sap flow begins. This method is mainly suitable for deciduous trees such as crape myrtle, hibiscus, grape, poplar, willow, etc. A few evergreen trees can also use hardwood cutting, such as oleander. Early spring hardwood cutting requires attention to raising soil temperature and controlling the air temperature inside the greenhouse. In short, whether softwood cutting or hardwood cutting, the disinfection work of cuttings and soil must be done well, and the temperature, humidity, and light of the seedbed must also be well regulated. In addition, to improve the survival rate of seedling cuttings, some measures to promote rooting should also be appropriately taken.
Uses and Functions of Buddhist Pine
Economic Value
The wood of Buddhist pine is fine and uniform in texture and easy to process. It can be used for furniture, utensils, stationery, and farm tools, etc.
Although Buddhist pine originated in China, due to historical reasons, there are very few large Buddhist pine trees old enough, and the number of large-specification Buddhist pine landscaping seedlings is also extremely limited. As a slow-growing tree species, Buddhist pine itself cannot be rapidly replicated, and the existing quantity is far from meeting the needs of courtyard greening and high-end residential landscapes. In particular, large-specification, beautifully shaped Buddhist pine is even harder to find. It is understood that engineering seedlings with a diameter at breast height of more than 10 cm on the market mainly rely on imports.
In Guangdong, China, household consumption is the mainstay. It is understood that in Guangdong, households have become the main force in Buddhist pine consumption, with a purchase proportion of about 30%, favoring mid-to-high-end products, followed by landscaping units at about 20%, enterprises and institutions at about 20%, collectors at about 15%, and other uses at about 15%.
Buddhist pine has an elegant and upright charm, with a majestic and vigorous proud momentum of its own. Combined with the meanings in Chinese culture such as "longevity" and "keeping wealth and auspiciousness," owners pursuing high-grade courtyard beautification often like to plant one or two Buddhist pines, adding a finishing touch to creating their own "garden-style story."
Flower Language of Buddhist Pine
Flower language of Buddhist pine: youth, vitality, health, longevity, good luck, and wealth attraction.
After reading the above introduction about the propagation methods and uses of Buddhist pine, do you have a better understanding of the propagation methods of Buddhist pine? If you want to know more about Buddhist pine, please continue to follow.
How to Grow Potted Buddhist Pine, Propagation Methods of Buddhist Pine
Buddhist pine, also known as Luohan cedar, golden larch, Luohan cypress, etc., is an evergreen coniferous tree of the genus Podocarpus in the family Podocarpaceae. It has extremely high ornamental value as a potted plant. Its tree posture is lush, elegant and graceful, vigorous and sturdy, with fresh green leaves in all four seasons, giving a sense of vigor and nobility. If attached with rocks to create a posture of eagle claws embracing a stone, it is even more elegant and unique. Now let us take a look at how to grow potted Buddhist pine!
Growth Habits of Buddhist Pine
Buddhist pine is produced in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Fujian, Anhui, Jiangxi, Hunan, Sichuan, Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi, Guangdong and other provinces and regions in China. It is cultivated in courtyards as an ornamental tree, and wild trees are very rare. It prefers a warm and humid climate, has weak cold tolerance, and strong shade tolerance. It prefers well-drained, moist sandy loam, has strong adaptability to soil, and can survive even on saline-alkali soil. It has relatively strong resistance to various polluting gases such as sulfur dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, and nitrogen oxides, and strong resistance to pests and diseases.
Propagation Methods of Buddhist Pine
1. Sowing: Buddhist pine seeds are best sown immediately after collection and cannot be stored over summer. Before sowing, soak the seeds for several days first. After the seeds have fully absorbed water and expanded, sow in rows or in spots. The sowing depth should be enough to cover the seeds. After sowing, cover with grass to retain moisture, and spray water once a day. If sowing in open ground, in the southwestern region it is also necessary to cover with grass for winter protection. In other regions, pot sowing is required, and after sowing, move to a low-temperature greenhouse for overwintering. Seedlings can emerge in 8 to 10 days. After emergence, remove the covering grass and shade immediately. Do not expose to the sun.
2. Layering: Layering propagation of Buddhist pine is best carried out around the Jingzhe solar term in spring. Select a branch near the ground that is slightly smaller than a chopstick, make a diagonal cut with a small knife on one side of the base near the ground, cutting through one-half of the branch. Insert a prepared one-cun-long bamboo piece horizontally into the cut, and insert a small wooden stick beside it to support the branch. Gently tie it with a plastic band, then cover the cut with loose soil, gently press firm, and cover with dry grass to keep moist. After 3 months, the branch can take root at the cut.
3. Cutting
① Softwood cutting: For Buddhist pine softwood cutting, in the first half of the year it is carried out from mid-to-late May to early July, and in the second half of the year from mid-to-late August to mid-to-late September. Seedlings cut in the first half of the year should be protected from high-temperature scorching and disease occurrence. Seedlings cut in the second half of the year should be protected from cold and frost in the middle and later stages. The time to remove the shade netting is late November. In drought years, the time to remove the shade netting can be extended to late December.
② Hardwood cutting: Hardwood cutting refers to cutting fully lignified sturdy branches from the previous year during the dormant stage in early spring from February to March before sap flow begins. Early spring hardwood cutting requires attention to raising soil temperature and controlling the air temperature inside the greenhouse.
How to Grow Potted Buddhist Pine?
1. Soil: Buddhist pine prefers well-drained, moist sandy loam, has strong adaptability to soil, and can survive even on saline-alkali soil. Cultivation requires slightly acidic culture soil rich in humus, loose and fertile, and well-drained. In alkaline soil, the leaves turn yellow and growth is slow. It has a long lifespan, reaching several hundred years, or even over a thousand years.
2. Transplanting: Transplanting Buddhist pine is best done in spring from March to April. Small seedlings need to be kept with soil, and large seedlings with soil balls. It can also be potted. After planting, water thoroughly. Keep the soil moist during the growing period. During the hot summer season, it should be placed in a semi-shaded area for maintenance. Fertilize once every 2 months. In winter, pay attention to cold protection for potted plants. The pot can be buried in the soil, and watering should be reduced.
3. Watering: Buddhist pine is not a plant of the pine family and is not drought-tolerant. On the contrary, Buddhist pine is tolerant of shade and moisture, and attention should be paid to frequent watering during the growing period, but it should not be waterlogged. In the Shunde area, during sunny summer days, attention should be paid to frequent watering, generally once in the morning and once in the evening. In addition, leaf surface water should be sprayed frequently to keep the leaves fresh green and growing well. Summer rainfall is usually relatively abundant, and Buddhist pine is not waterlogging-tolerant, so attention should be paid to preventing prolonged water accumulation.
4. Sunlight: Buddhist pine is a neutral to slightly shade-loving tree species. It can accept relatively strong light and can also grow in a more shaded environment. Although summer temperatures are high and sunlight is intense, since large Buddhist pine trees benefit from high temperature and strong light in maintaining their tree posture and leaf shape, it is not necessary to shade large Buddhist pine trees in summer. However, small Buddhist pine seedlings, due to their tender tissues, should not be exposed to prolonged strong light, and it is recommended to place them under tree shade for maintenance.
5. Temperature: For potted cultivation in northern regions, when the outdoor temperature stabilizes at around 10°C, move them outdoors and place them in a wind-protected, sunny location for maintenance. After summer begins, move them to a semi-shaded area. In winter, when the temperature does not drop to 5°C, they should be moved indoors. After moving indoors, control watering. They can safely overwinter under non-freezing conditions.
6. Fertilization: Buddhist pine likes fertilizer and should be fertilized with thin applications frequently. Nitrogen fertilizer is the main type, supplemented by phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. An appropriate amount of black alum can be added and composted into alum fertilizer water. In spring, combined with repotting, apply sufficient base fertilizer. During the growing season, apply some thin alum fertilizer water, and frequently apply 01% urea and 3% leftover beer, which can make the leaves thick and verdant. During the growing period, fertilize once every 1-2 months. Fertilization can be carried out simultaneously with watering (water-to-fertilizer ratio of 9:1).
7. Shaping: Buddhist pine has whorled branches. According to the established momentum of the trunk, cut off messy branches, retain 2-3 branches at appropriate positions, and bind the branches with metal wire to make the main branches droop slightly. Its sprouting ability is not strong. Prune once each year in June and July, and usually focus on pinching (generally pinch after the small branches have lignified).
8. Pests and Diseases: The main diseases of Buddhist pine are leaf spot disease and anthracnose, which can be sprayed with 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 500 times solution. The pests of Buddhist pine mainly include scale insects, red spiders and bagworms, etc., which can be killed by spraying with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1500 times solution.