What to Do When Maidenhair Fern Leaves Turn Yellow? Master This Trick and Green Fronds Will Fill the Pot
Maidenhair fern (Adiantum) is a perennial herbaceous plant, meaning it can be grown for many years. Its stems are slender and somewhat like iron wire, which is why it is called maidenhair fern. It can be enjoyed ornamentally and also used medicinally. It can grow to over half a meter long, with tender green and beautiful leaves, making it very suitable for placing on windowsills or balconies.
Maidenhair fern is a perennial herbaceous plant, meaning it can be grown for many years. Its stems are slender and somewhat like iron wire, which is why it is called maidenhair fern. It can be enjoyed ornamentally and also used medicinally. It can grow to over half a meter long, with tender green and beautiful leaves, making it very suitable for placing on windowsills or balconies. It can grow well even without direct sunlight and has strong adaptability.
How to grow maidenhair fern: Because it is a fern, it cannot tolerate strong direct sunlight, so it should be placed in a spot with filtered light. It also needs sufficient humidity, requiring frequent misting to maintain air moisture. When water is insufficient, the leaves easily turn yellow and dry out.
How to deal with yellowing and withered maidenhair fern leaves: If the maidenhair fern's leaves have withered and all fallen off, don't throw it away. Its root system is still viable. Cut off all the yellowed and withered leaves, water it until water overflows from the bottom, then place it in a ventilated and shaded spot at home. If the temperature is low, you can cover it with a layer of plastic wrap and poke a few holes for ventilation. Uncover after three or four days.
After about a week, small shoots will continuously emerge from the pot, more and more of them, bringing pleasant surprises. In about ten days, it will grow into an even more lush and vibrant maidenhair fern potted plant, restoring its former vitality.
There is a little trick for wanting your maidenhair fern to grow vigorously: Maidenhair fern likes calcium fertilizer, so when fertilizing or repotting, add some quicklime and crushed eggshells to the soil. The maidenhair fern will grow jade-green leaves, especially vigorous and beautiful.
A super useful trick from flower enthusiasts for growing maidenhair fern: In summer, you can place the maidenhair fern's pot in a saucer or small basin that can hold water, fill the basin with water to ensure adequate moisture, then place the pot in a relatively cool and shaded spot on the balcony. If you have a small yard, place it along the wall base where the sun doesn't reach. If you double-pot it, even better. Its roots can stay moist.
In autumn, when temperatures drop, it will regain its vitality and grow more branches and leaves. At this time, do not water too much; just keep the potting soil slightly moist. In winter, place it indoors. As long as the temperature does not drop below 10 degrees, it can safely get through the winter.
What Flowers Are Suitable for Home Display: Complete Guide to Flower Pictures and Names
As people's awareness of greenery increases, home decorations are beginning to show a green and healthy trend. Among the many varieties, the most elegant and full of life are green leafy flowers. To help consumers choose and match flowers, what flowers are suitable for home display? The selection covers high, medium, and low-end options for different consumer groups, without losing style.
Flower Pictures and Names Guide One: Large-Flowered Cymbidium
Large-flowered cymbidium comes in many varieties, with abundant colors including yellow, pink, and red. The plant is relatively large, with a height of about 1.3 m, suitable for placing in larger spaces. It is usually placed on a flower stand, appearing elegant and cozy. Large-flowered cymbidium has good cold resistance and is easy to care for; normal watering is sufficient. The flowering period is relatively long, generally two to three months, but after the flowers fade, it is generally difficult to get it to bloom again. Large-flowered cymbidium is a mid-to-high-end flower, and the price is related to the number of flower spikes. The more flower spikes, the higher the price. Generally, each additional flower spike adds about 30 yuan to the price, and if several plants are combined together, the price will be even higher.
Flower Pictures and Names Guide Two: Colored Calla Lily
Colored calla lily is a new flower on the current flower market, but the quantity is relatively small. It is novel and high-end, making it an excellent gift. Ordinary calla lilies are mostly white, while colored calla lilies were developed by grafting genes from other flowers to cultivate various colors. The plant is relatively small, with a height of about 40 cm, suitable for placing on tables, coffee tables, and corner cabinets as furniture accents. The flowering period is about one month, generally watered once every three or four days, and watered thoroughly each time. Water can be sprayed on the leaves, and normally the leaves can be wiped with water or beer. The shiny leaves better set off the nobility of the colored calla lily petals. The petal colors generally have a gradient effect, and the leaf shapes are beautiful and varied, with some small spots. After the flowers fade, the leaves can be enjoyed.
Flower Pictures and Names Guide Three: Lily
Lilies are popular this year, though less popular than last year. Lily flowers have large coronas and a rich fragrance. If you place a pot in a corner of a room, the entire room can smell its fragrance. Lilies have elegant style, but you should not place too many just because they are beautiful, otherwise the effect will be counterproductive. Generally, you can choose a combination of 5 stems per pot and place them near doors, windows, and other draft areas to help the fragrance spread. However, lilies are afraid of wind and should not be exposed to wind. The flowering period of lilies is relatively short, about half a month at an indoor temperature of around 15 degrees. After the flowers fade, the leaves have little ornamental value, and ordinary households find it difficult to get them to bloom again. Indoor temperature seriously affects the flowering period of lilies. Growing lilies is mainly about controlling the indoor temperature well. If the indoor temperature is too high, it may take only one night from bud to bloom. When lily flowers are half-open, with fingers able to fit inside, the stamens should be gently removed to prevent pollen from falling onto the petals and forming orange spots. Lily buds are very beautiful. If a pot of lilies has both blooming petals and buds waiting to open, the elegance of the lilies will be fully expressed.
Flower Pictures and Names Guide Four: Tulip
Tulips are also a relatively popular variety this year, though less popular than last year, and the quantity is somewhat greater this year. Compared with other flowers, tulips have rich and varied flower colors and varieties, with large differences in flower size and considerable variation in size and plant height, and the cultivation technology is also relatively mature. Different varieties also have different flowering periods, generally about one month. They are relatively cold-resistant; high temperatures and more light make them open faster. It is best to place them in a cold, cool, and dark spot. Light especially affects the degree of tulip opening. Their biggest characteristic is opening during the day and closing at night, but as time goes on, they open more and more widely and gradually fade. Tulips are about 40 cm tall, generally with 10-12 stems combined per pot, suitable for placing on coffee tables and corner cabinets as accents. They are a mid-to-low-end flower, and the price is related to the variety, with large price differences among different varieties.
Flower Pictures and Names Guide Five: Cyclamen
Cyclamen is a mass-market flower with many varieties, and prices vary greatly among different varieties. Shijiazhuang is a production base for cyclamen, with a large quantity on the market. Compared with other cities, Shijiazhuang's prices are more affordable. Pink, purple, red with white edges, and more, are all available. The heart-shaped leaves have heart-shaped patterns, and the leaves themselves have high ornamental value. Blooming cyclamen clusters together in groups, surrounded by vigorous leaves. Placed on a coffee table or desk at home, it is very suitable for a festive holiday atmosphere. Cyclamen is easy to care for and suitable for the climate of the north. It offers both flowers and foliage to enjoy, and is inexpensive and good quality.
Flower Pictures and Names Guide Six: Azalea
Azalea, also called yingshanhong, is also a mass-market flower. Azaleas have an especially large number of blooms. A single flower's blooming period is not long, but the whole plant's continuous flowering period is long, batch after batch. As one side is about to fade, the other side has already bloomed, and it can continue blooming for about two months. Azaleas themselves are not very tall; the tall azaleas seen on the market are all grafted, and flower buds of many colors can be grafted onto the same rootstock, thus producing flowers of many colors. Azaleas on the Shijiazhuang market come from Shandong and Fujian. Azaleas from Shandong have denser leaves and a more expansive plant shape; azaleas from Fujian have a more concise and somewhat thinner plant shape. Taller azaleas are suitable for placing on both sides of the TV, while shorter ones are suitable for placing many pots together in a wooden trough, lush and verdant, with a return-to-nature scenery. The main point in azalea care is not to spray water onto the flowers, otherwise the flowers easily rot.
Flower Pictures and Names Guide Seven: Phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis has been a relatively high-end flower that has remained popular in recent years, and more people recognize it. This year's price is slightly lower than in previous years. Phalaenopsis is generally about 70 cm tall, with a flowering period of over two months. There are now more and more colors of phalaenopsis. Besides the common red, pink, purple, and white, there are also orange and spotted ones. If the container is suitable, a single phalaenopsis plant has a unique style, but generally phalaenopsis of different grades are combined into different flower shapes, with 3, 5, 7, or 12 plants all being possible, suitable for placing on a flower stand. Phalaenopsis is graded A, B, and C according to the number of flowers. Generally, one plant with more than 7 flowers is Grade A, more than 5 flowers is Grade B, and more than 3 flowers is Grade C. The higher the grade, the higher the price. Generally speaking, those with a large number of flowers, upright petals, relatively straight flower stems, and thick, glossy leaves with a fleshy feel are superior.
Flower Pictures and Names Guide Eight: Bromeliad Flowers
There are many varieties of bromeliad flowers, and the flower shapes differ greatly among different varieties, such as Denis, Hongxing, Fenxing, pinecone, mitou, yingge, red arrow, and many others. Prices also vary greatly. A superior pinecone can cost six or seven hundred yuan for a single plant, while ordinary Denis, Hongxing, and others may be seventy or eighty yuan per plant. Single or combined bromeliad flowers can show an elegant and noble temperament. If giving as a gift, generally 3, 4, or 5 plants are combined together; a single plant does not show much class. Bromeliad flowers are generally best paired with a flower stand and placed in the living room, creating a festive holiday atmosphere. Care is relatively simple, but water should always be kept in the top cup of the plant to support its growth.
Flower Pictures and Names Guide Nine: Hydroponic Flowers
Compared with potted flowers, hydroponic flowers have higher ornamental value. You can enjoy the flowers, leaves, and roots, and also keep fish, with the charm of flowers and fish coexisting. Placed on a coffee table or dining table, they especially add color to holiday home decor. Most households still do not have hydroponic flowers. Stylish and unique hydroponic flowers are a highlight of modern homes. Among hydroponic flowers, larger types include Alocasia (dripping guanyin) and Spathiphyllum (bainiaochaofeng), medium types include Dracaena and Philodendron (chunyu), and there are many small varieties, including Spathiphyllum (white palm), Anthurium (huohe), pink anthurium, Syngonium, and Monstera. Hydroponic flowers are relatively simple to care for; just change the water regularly and add some nutrient solution. They are clean and convenient.
Flower Pictures and Names Guide Ten: How to Match Flowers with Space
Flower cultivation experts say that the arrangement of flowers is generally based on the function of the space, matching the height, lowness, size, and flower color of the flowers. The placement of flowers in the living room should not pursue "quantity." Flowers are always only an accent for furniture and should not make the living room look like a greenhouse. Generally, place one or two green plants 1.7 m tall in a corner, and place some smaller flowers and colorful foliage on the coffee table. Tall plants should not be placed in the bedroom, otherwise they easily create psychological pressure. It is suitable to place plants with soft leaves, accent some small flowers on the bedside table, and place some spider plants on top of the cabinet. Tall flowers are also not suitable in the dining room. Accenting with a small pot of green plants on the dining table can adjust the mood while eating. The thicker the plant leaves, the better the resistance to cooking fumes, because they can be wiped frequently and will not be damaged from being too thin. The study mainly suits elegant plants and radiation-absorbing plants, such as cactus and asparagus fern. The bathroom can hold some shade-tolerant ferns, such as sword fern and maidenhair fern, but because many bathrooms have poor light, the flowers need to be regularly taken outside to get some sun. The balcony can hold some sun-loving plants, and a small flower bed can be made to create a small garden. Generally, flowers grown for their blooms and fruits all like sunlight.
In addition, the pairing of containers and flowers is very important. Flower cultivation experts say that the flower sizes of the same kind of flower are all different, and suitable containers should be chosen according to their characteristics. Generally, well-matched finished flower arrangements contain cultural concepts and the designer's careful thought, can align with fashion trends, and grasp what is popular. Finished flower arrangements can be called a work of art, with a beautiful appearance and exquisite packaging, and are attached with a small card stating the meaning of the flowers and care knowledge, allowing consumers to appreciate art while also learning some flower knowledge.
The above is the flower pictures and names guide introduced to you by the editor. We hope it is helpful to you.
Common Foliage Plant Pictures to Enjoy and Introductions
Common Foliage Plant Pictures to Enjoy and Introductions OneRubber Tree[Aliases] Large-leaf green, red Burma tree, red-mouth rubber tree, Indian banyan
[Family and Genus] Moraceae, Ficus
[Place of Origin] China
[Morphological Characteristics] Evergreen tree. Plant height 2-3 m. Stems hairless, with milky sap. Leaves thick, leathery, with long petioles; leaves are oblong or elliptical.
[Growing Medium] A sandy loam rich in humus is preferable.
[Watering] Simply keep the soil on the dry side or slightly moist. Summer is the period when the rubber tree needs the most water, so it can be watered more. Winter is the period when the rubber tree needs the least water, so water should be reduced.
[Fertilizing] During the vigorous growing season, diammonium phosphate, potassium dihydrogen phosphate, and similar fertilizers should be used as top dressing.
[Light] The rubber tree likes strong direct sunlight and also tolerates shaded environments. However, during cultivation, it should receive no less than 4 hours of direct sunlight each day. If conditions permit, it is best to ensure the plant can receive full sun.
[Ventilation] Keeping the environment properly ventilated is sufficient.
[Temperature] The rubber tree likes high-temperature environments, so it grows fastest in summer and autumn. The environmental temperature should be kept between 20-30 degrees. When the environmental temperature is below 10 degrees, the rubber tree is basically in a state of stagnant growth. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 5 degrees.
[Disease Control] The rubber tree is susceptible to anthracnose, whose pathogen is Gloeosporium elasticae. This disease mainly occurs in the high-temperature summer season, and the main affected part is the leaves. Its symptoms are round or elliptical gray spots appearing on both sides of the leaf veins, and in severe cases the lesions merge into one patch and spread to the entire leaf. Control methods are to avoid mechanical damage to the plant to reduce opportunities for pathogen infection; promptly remove diseased leaves to prevent spread; and prune reasonably to keep the tree in a natural open-center form, achieving light penetration and ventilation.Asparagus Fern
Asparagus fern, also known as yunpianzhu and shancao, belongs to Liliaceae, Asparagus.
Origin and Habits: Asparagus fern is native to South Africa. It likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded conditions, and is not tolerant of drought or frost. It requires soil rich in humus and well-drained.
Morphological Characteristics: Asparagus fern is a perennial herbaceous plant with smooth, soft, slender stems that are climbing in form. The leaves are fine and spread horizontally; the leaves are small, about 3-5 mm long. True leaves are reduced to scales or spines. Flowers are small, bisexual, and white. Berries are spherical and purple-black. The flowering period is mostly in February-March or June-July, and some bloom twice.
Propagation Techniques: Asparagus fern is mostly propagated by sowing and division. Sowing is carried out in March-April, and seeds are soaked for 24 hours before sowing. Sow in spots in a 10 cm deep pot, cover with glass or plastic film, maintain a temperature of 20-25°C and keep the potting soil moist; germination can occur in 20-30 days. When seedlings are 5-10 cm tall, they can be planted in a greenhouse or potted. Large 4-5-year-old plants can be divided and propagated in spring.
Management Techniques: Asparagus fern is a shade-loving plant and should not be placed in a place with too strong light, otherwise the branches and leaves easily turn yellow and wither. Watering should be appropriate, keeping the potting soil alternately moist and dry. Generally, watering just enough to moisten the surface soil is sufficient. In dry seasons, more clean water should be sprayed on the leaf surface. Asparagus fern likes fertilizer; apply a fully decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer mainly of nitrogen and potassium, or residual milk mixed with water, once every 10-15 days. Asparagus fern grows quickly, so weak, overly dense, old branches, and dead stems should be thinned and pruned at any time, which helps ventilation and maintains a low posture. Asparagus fern can also be planted in bamboo tubes; their water permeability and water retention are both good, and there is no need to drill holes in the bottom.
Ornamental Value: Asparagus fern is mainly grown in pots for its foliage. It is fresh and elegant, and when arranged in a study it shows even more of a scholarly atmosphere. The roots, stems, and leaves of asparagus fern can all be used medicinally and can be collected year-round. The branches and leaves of asparagus fern are fine, upright and elegant, with a well-balanced green, and a free and easy posture. It is a good accompanying material for cut flowers, bouquets, and flower baskets.Areca Palm
Family and Genus: Arecaceae, Chrysalidocarpus, evergreen shrub.
Origin and Habits: Native to Madagascar island in Africa; mostly potted in various parts of China. Areca palm likes warm and humid environments, likes light and is also relatively shade-tolerant. Height growth is slow while crown width develops relatively quickly, and natural pruning is good. It requires slightly acidic, well-aerated sandy loam and avoids alkaline soil.
Morphological Characteristics: Plant height 3-4 m. Stems branch from the ground and have ring patterns; leaves spread in an arch shape, up to 2 m long; petioles smooth, yellow; pinnae lanceolate, 60 cm long, with soft tips; 3 main veins on the back, raised; flowers small, in strings, golden yellow, flowering period March-April.
Propagation Techniques: Areca palm can be propagated by sowing or division. Generally, potted plants mostly use division propagation. Division propagation can be done in all four seasons, but autumn is best. Select well-developed shoots from a robust mother plant, cut them away from the mother plant at the root, and transplant them into a new pot to re-establish. Newly established plants, because the root system has not yet developed well, should avoid long exposure to strong light. Water appropriately, spray water on the leaf surface several times a day, and keep the leaves moist. Keep the temperature at about 20-25°C, and normal growth can occur in about 20 days.
Management Techniques: Indoor potted areca palm should use slightly acidic soil, and in the north care should be taken to choose sandy loam with high humus content. Watering should follow the principle of “dry thoroughly, wet thoroughly” according to the season. In dry and hot seasons, water appropriately more; in low-temperature rainy weather, control watering. In northern regions, especially where the water contains more salt and alkali, care should be taken to regularly use black alum to adjust soil acidity. Liquid fertilizer can be applied in all four seasons; in summer, appropriately apply nitrogen-containing organic fertilizer as top dressing, and in winter organic flower fertilizer such as sesame paste residue can be applied. Regularly rotate the pot, often prune lower and inner dead leaves, and pay attention to trimming the crown shape. In winter, the indoor temperature must be kept above 10°C. When below 5 degrees for a long time, it will suffer freeze damage.
Ornamental Value: The areca palm plant is tall, with drooping jade-green leaves, a free and easy posture, and evergreen in all seasons. When potted and arranged in conference venues, halls, and rooms, it is especially majestic and reflects a tropical scenery. This species is good material for park and courtyard landscaping in South China. In places such as Hong Kong, China and Macao, China, because its leaves grow radially in all directions, it is regarded as a symbol of career “prosperity in all directions.” It is highly favored.Alocasia (Dripping Guanyin)
Dripping Guanyin is a commercial name. When the soil water content is high, water drips down from the leaf tips or leaf edges, so many places call it dripping guanyin. This plant is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of Araceae, Alocasia - Alocasia macrorrhizos. It is native to the subtropics and likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. It is not cold-tolerant, and in areas north of the Yangtze River basin in China it is all grown in pots and moved indoors before winter. Alocasia has low soil requirements, but grows best in well-drained sandy loam or humus loam containing organic matter. Generally, the potting soil mostly uses a mixed soil of leaf mold, peat soil, and coarse sand at 2:2:1. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist and apply a dilute N, P, K liquid fertilizer mainly of N once or twice a month. In summer, place it in a semi-shaded and ventilated spot, and often spray water around it and on the leaf surface to increase air humidity, lower leaf temperature, and keep the leaves clean. In winter, stop fertilizing and control the frequency of watering. Alocasia grows very fast, so during its growth process, fertilizer and water must be appropriate to avoid causing the lower part of the stem to become bare, which affects ornamental value.Malabar Chestnut (Money Tree)
[Aliases] Money tree, Zhongmei kapok, chestnut tree, American peanut
[Family and Genus] Bombacaceae, Pachira
[Place of Origin] Central America, Mexico to Costa Rica
[Soil] Well-drained sandy loam rich in humus is preferable
[Light] The money tree has low light requirements; it can adapt well whether in strong light or weak light indoors. But full sun can make leaf nodes shorter and the plant shape compact and full. Insufficient light makes the cultivated tree grow more slowly. Do not suddenly move the plant from a shaded place to strong light, otherwise the leaves will be scorched and edge-burned, affecting appearance
[Temperature] The money tree likes a warm and humid climate; generally the most suitable growing stage is 15-30 degrees. In winter it should be brought indoors to overwinter, and it is best if the room temperature is not lower than 5 degrees
[Watering] The money tree should generally be kept normally moist; remember that it should not be too wet, to avoid root rot. In summer, a money tree placed indoors should be watered once every 3-5 days; in spring and autumn, water once every 5-8 days; in winter, watering should be restrained and keeping the potting soil slightly moist is sufficient
[Fertilizing] Normally apply organic liquid fertilizer once every 2-3 months. A multi-element compound fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium content can also be applied to promote thickening of the stem base and improve ornamental value. The high-temperature and high-humidity season in summer is very favorable for the growth of the money tree, so fertilizer and water management should be strengthened at this stage
[Economic Value] The money tree has a graceful plant shape, bright green leaves, and a spindle-shaped tree form. It can be woven into many shapes and can also be made into uniquely styled bonsai of various postures. Because its seeds contain oil, it was once widely promoted as an woody oil plant in tropical regionsParlor Palm
[Aliases] Dwarf palm, dwarf coconut, parlor palm, miniature palm
[Family and Genus] Ceroxyloideae, Chamaedorea
[Place of Origin] Mexico and Guatemala
[Growth Habits] Likes high temperature and high humidity and semi-shaded environments, not tolerant of strong light, and not strongly cold-resistant
[Soil] Requires well-drained, fertile, and moist soil. Repot once every 2 years in spring. When repotting, because the roots are very fine, avoid damaging too many roots, which would affect its recovery growth
[Temperature and Environment] The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees; at 13 degrees it enters dormancy, and the overwintering temperature is 10 degrees. It is afraid of direct sunlight and not tolerant of drought. Under strong sun its leaf color will become lighter or yellow, and in severe cases cause sunburn, producing scorched leaves and black spots, losing ornamental value
[Fertilizing and Watering] This species has a growing period from March to September. Water promptly to keep the potting soil moist, but watering should follow the principle of preferring dry over wet. In summer and autumn, when the air is dry and temperatures are high, water should also be sprayed on the leaf surface frequently to increase air humidity. During the dormant period, water less and keep the pot surface slightly dry. During the growing season, fertilize once or twice a month, and stop fertilizing at the end of September
[Economic Value] This species has a small and exquisite plant shape, a graceful and elegant form, jade-green and glossy leaves, strong shade tolerance, and a rich tropical flavorKing Palm
[Family and Genus] Ceroxyloideae, Ravenea
[Place of Origin] Eastern Madagascar
[Growth Habits] Grows in swamps and along riverbanks in areas with sufficient rain and sunlight. Likes environments with sufficient light and sufficient water, and is also relatively cold-resistant and shade-tolerant
[Soil] It has low soil requirements, but loose, fertile, and well-drained soil is more favorable for its growth
[Temperature] It grows quickly when sunlight and water are sufficient, and the suitable growth temperature is 22-30 degrees. When potted, in cold regions it can be brought indoors to overwinter
[Fertilizing] Likes magnesium fertilizer; top-dress once a month to keep the leaves jade-green. When magnesium is deficient, the leaves turn yellow
[Economic Value] This species has a thick trunk, a graceful and light plant shape, and is beautifully green. Its pinnate compound leaves resemble feathers. At the same time, because of its wide adaptability range and good growth, it is an increasingly popular landscaping tree species. Potted for indoor display, it has a strong tropical moodUmbrella Tree
[Aliases] Duck-foot wood, hand tree
[Family and Genus] Araliaceae, Schefflera
[Place of Origin] New Hebrides Islands in the South Pacific
[Growth Habits] Likes high temperature and high humidity
[Soil] The cultivation medium is preferably well-drained loam or sandy loam
[Temperature and Environment] The suitable growth temperature is about 20-28 degrees. The temperature should generally not be lower than 12 degrees, nor higher than 30 degrees. If the winter temperature is too low, it will drop leaves and lose ornamental value. When the temperature drops to 5 degrees, keep it warm. In summer, avoid strong direct sunlight all day. It should be placed in a bright indoor spot, but not exposed to direct sunlight. Placed in a dark place, the yellow-white patches of variegated varieties will gradually disappear. After direct exposure to strong light, the leaves easily turn yellow and fall off. When planted on a balcony, shade is needed in spring and summer, and light is needed in autumn and winter
[Watering and Fertilizing] In spring and autumn, the potting soil should alternate between dry and wet; in summer, mainly wet; in winter, mainly dry. It is not selective about water quality. The growing period is mainly from April to October, and fertilize once every half month
[Economic Value] The umbrella tree has oily green leaves in palmate compound form, leathery and glossy; variegated varieties are yellow and green interspersed, making it an ideal indoor ornamental plant. The umbrella tree tolerates pruning and has strong sprouting ability. The plant posture is elegant, and especially when used to beautify a room it can compare with high-end flower varieties. Umbrella tree flowers are a winter nectar source, and the root bark and leaves can also be used medicinallySlender Fishtail Palm
[Aliases] Clustering fishtail palm, wine coconut
[Family and Genus] Arecaceae, Caryota
[Place of Origin] Guangdong, Guangxi, and Hainan in China; Indochina Peninsula; India
[Growth Habits] A semi-sun plant, it grows poorly under strong sunlight. It likes warm, high-humidity, and well-ventilated environments, and has relatively strong cold resistance, being one of the more cold-resistant palm plants
[Soil] It has relatively strong growth potential and a developed root system, and has low requirements for soil conditions. When potted, garden soil and humus soil can be mixed in equal amounts as the medium. Generally, repot once every 1-2 years. When repotting, remove part of the old soil, cut off some old roots, replant with new soil, and add a small amount of decomposed organic fertilizer
[Temperature] The suitable growth temperature is 18-30 degrees, the overwintering temperature is 3 degrees, and it can endure short periods of -1 to -2 degrees low temperature. Long-term below this temperature will cause freeze damage
[Light] It is a light-loving plant and needs sufficient sunlight during the growing period. It has a relatively strong ability to adapt to light and is also suitable for cultivation and appreciation in brighter indoor spots
[Watering] The roots are semi-succulent and have relatively strong drought resistance. During the growing period from March to October, it can be watered once a day. In other seasons, watering should keep moisture moderate; never allow waterlogging in the potting soil, to avoid root rot. During dormancy, it is sufficient to keep the potting soil moist. Under dry climate conditions, spray water on the leaf surface to ensure the leaves are deep green and glossy
[Fertilizing] During the growing period, generally apply liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer once or twice a month to promote vigorous growth of the plant
[Economic Value] This species has a clustering plant form and very vigorous growth. The plant shape is graceful and varied, with luxuriant branches and leaves. The tree form is full and rich in layering, with unique leaf shapes and deep green leaf color, making it an excellent indoor greenery decoration plant. It is often planted in medium and large pots and placed in lobbies, entrance halls, meeting rooms, and other places, looking extraordinarily impressive. The pith of the stem contains starch, which can be made into “sago” for eating. The inflorescence sap can be used to make sugar and brew winePothos
Pothos is also called shiganzi. Araceae, a large evergreen climbing vine plant. Native to the Solomon Islands, in tropical regions it often climbs on rocks and tree trunks in fish forests and can grow into a huge vine plant. The green leaves have yellow patches.
Pothos is one of the very excellent indoor decorative plants. Its vines are slender and soft, and its leaves are delicate and beautiful, like green reliefs. The bright-colored green decoration is full of vitality and adds a warm and harmonious charm to the room.
It has strong shade tolerance and is an excellent material for beautifying rooms. Placed indoors, it can make the room full of vitality.
Temperature: Likes warm environments; the minimum overwintering temperature is 10-13°C; variegated pothos 16°C.
Light: Likes semi-shaded environments; can grow well in relatively bright rooms; excellent variegated varieties easily die under weak light conditions.
Water: In spring, summer, and autumn, there should be sufficient water in the potting soil; water when the surface 1-2 cm of potting soil becomes dry; in winter, when the temperature is low, watering should be reduced.
Air Humidity: Likes high temperature and high humidity; water should be sprayed on the plant frequently.
Repotting: Repot in spring as needed.
Propagation: In spring and summer, cuttings from branches take root easily; for making a totem pole, cuttings with large leaves and the growing tip must be used, so that it takes shape relatively quickly.Brazilian Wood
Brazilian Wood, scientific name Dracaena fragrans, also known as Brazilian Iron Tree, Brazilian Millennium Wood, and Golden-edged Dracaena fragrans, is a plant of the Liliaceae family and the genus Dracaena.
Origin and habits: Brazilian Wood is native to tropical regions. It likes environments with ample light, high temperatures and high humidity, and also tolerates shade and dryness; it grows well in bright scattered light and in the relatively dry environment of northern homes.
Morphological characteristics: Brazilian Wood is an evergreen tree with a neat plant shape and an upright stem. The leaves are clustered at the top of the stem, 40-90 cm long and 6-10 cm wide, with slightly blunt tips, curved into a bow shape, and have bright yellow or milky white stripes; the leaf margins are bright green, with wavy undulations, and glossy. The flowers are small, yellow-green, and fragrant.
Propagation techniques: Brazilian Wood is propagated by cuttings. Use the branches trimmed from the stems of poorer-shaped plants as cutting material, cut them into 5-10 cm sections, and insert them upright or flat on a cutting bed with coarse sand or vermiculite as the medium. They can also be rooted by water culture. The specific method is to insert the cut stem sections into water; the cut surface should be smooth, and the upper end can be coated with wax to prevent water evaporation, which is especially important in dry seasons. The lower end is immersed 2-3 cm in water, the temperature should be above 25°C, and the water and container should be kept clean. Leafy shoot tips root faster, rooting in 3-4 weeks and then being potted; stem sections root more slowly, sometimes requiring 2-3 months to grow new roots and new shoots.
Management techniques: As long as conditions such as temperature are suitable, Brazilian Wood can grow all year round. In high summer temperatures, appropriate shading is needed, and in winter the room temperature must not be lower than 5°C. But it is best to let it go dormant in winter; the dormancy temperature is 13°C. If the temperature is too low, yellow-brown spots will appear on the leaf tips and margins. Brazilian Wood placed indoors should be in a place with ample light. If the light is too weak, the markings on the leaves will turn green, the basal leaves will yellow, and it will lose its ornamental value. During cultivation, keep the water clean and water 1-2 times a week; do not overwater, to prevent the trunk from rotting. In high summer temperatures, misting can be used to increase air humidity, and water can be sprayed on the leaves to keep them moist.
During the growing period, Brazilian Wood should be given appropriate foliar fertilization, spraying the leaves with a 100-fold diluted nutrient solution once every half month. After several years of cultivation, when the plant is too tall or the lower leaves on the stem have fallen off and the plant shape is poor, pruning should be carried out. Repot or change the soil every early spring. If the environment is unsuitable for potted Brazilian Wood, it may be harmed by red spider mites, thrips, scale insects, and so on. In addition, excessive ventilation, drought, irregular watering, and overfertilization can all cause the leaf tips to scorch.
Ornamental value: Brazilian Wood is a fairly popular large indoor potted foliage plant, especially when placed in relatively spacious living rooms, studies, and sitting rooms, where it has an elegant, simple style and a southern exotic flavor. It is a world-famous new-generation indoor foliage plant with a graceful, neat plant shape.Peacock Arrowroot
Also known as mosaic arrowroot, it is a foliage plant of the Marantaceae family and the genus Maranta. It has tubers at the base, the plant height is 20-30 cm, the leaves are long oval, the leaf surface is green-white, and there are relatively dark brown markings along the edges of the midrib. The leaves remain evergreen all year round and have a unique metallic luster; the brown patches are like a peacock displaying its tail, with fresh, gorgeous and soft colors, and it is a common indoor foliage plant. Many plants in this genus have high ornamental value and are important plants used to decorate indoor environments around the world. Common varieties include:
(1) Maranta arundinacea var. variegata. Also known as spotted Indian arrowroot, the leaves are long oval, large and thin, the leaf surface is green like velvet, there are zebra-striped feather-like stripes on both sides of the midrib, and the leaf underside is purplish red.
(2) Red-backed Indian arrowroot. The leaves are broadly oval, the surface is green, the markings are not obvious, and the leaf underside is purplish red.
(3) Mosaic Indian arrowroot. Also called arrow-feather striped arrowroot, the leaf surface is green, there are pale yellow feather-like stripes on both sides of the midrib, the leaf underside is dark purple, and the flowers are pale yellow.
(4) White-spotted arrowroot. The plant height is 50-60 cm, the stems are weak, the leaves are large and thin, ovate-lanceolate, with irregular white patches on the green leaves.
(5) Double-line arrowroot. Also known as red-feather arrowroot, the leaves are long oval, the surface is pale green, and there are white or peach-pink parallel double-line stripes on both sides of the midrib, which is very beautiful.
Peacock Arrowroot is native to the Americas. It likes semi-shade and high-temperature, humid environments, is not cold-tolerant, and the suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. Above 35°C or below 7°C, growth is poor. The overwintering temperature must not be too low, otherwise the leaves tend to curl. It requires loose soil rich in humus and with good drainage.
Arrowroot plants are mainly propagated by division, mostly in spring from April to May in conjunction with repotting. Division should not be done too early, otherwise the lower temperature can easily damage the roots and affect survival and growth. When dividing, separate into 2-3 clumps as one plant; too few will affect growth. After planting, water thoroughly once and place in a semi-shaded place for care. Before new roots emerge, watering should be controlled, and the soil should not be too wet.
The potting soil can be made by mixing 3 parts leaf mold, 1 part peat or sawdust, and 1 part sand, with a small amount of soybean cake added as base fertilizer. When potting, first place a 3 cm thick layer of coarse sand at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer to facilitate drainage.
From May to September during growth, shade the plants or place them in semi-shade, maintaining a light transmission rate of 40%-60%, and avoid direct scorching sunlight, otherwise the leaves are easily burned or the margins scorch and curl. If placed indoors for a long time, with low temperature and insufficient light, growth will also weaken and the unique luster on the leaf surface will be lost. In winter, it can receive direct sunlight through glass.
Arrowroot has relatively high humidity requirements. During normal care, the flowerpot can be placed on an inverted flowerpot, and water should be sprayed frequently on the leaves and the surrounding environment to keep the surroundings and ground moist, so as to increase environmental humidity. Water whenever the potting soil is not completely dry, otherwise the leaves easily curl and scorch at the edges due to dryness. In the peak growing season, apply a mild cake fertilizer or slow-release chemical fertilizer once a week, and do not use too much nitrogen fertilizer. In high summer temperatures, apply a thin fertilizer once every half month, and stop fertilizing when the temperature is below 15°C. During cultivation, good ventilation conditions should be maintained, otherwise scale insects are likely to occur, affecting stem and leaf growth and reducing ornamental value.
Peacock Arrowroot is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. The leaf surface has feather-like markings alternating dark green with white or pale yellow, and has a unique metallic luster, resembling a peacock's tail feathers, hence the name. Peacock Arrowroot is small and beautiful in form, with fresh and gorgeous leaf colors, thus becoming an outstanding one among foliage plants. For potting, choose a culture soil mixed evenly with leaf mold, garden soil, and a small amount of river sand. During the growing period, apply a thin liquid fertilizer once about every 3-4 weeks. When fertilizing, note that too much nitrogen fertilizer should not be applied; generally the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is 2:1:1, which can make the leaf color glossy and gorgeous. Soilless culture can also be used; during the growing period, simply apply nutrient solution 1-2 times a month. Watering should be done to the extent of keeping the potting soil moist. Peacock Arrowroot likes humid air, so attention should be paid to methods such as spraying and sprinkling water to increase air humidity. Especially in summer, more attention should be paid to increasing humidity and lowering temperature to benefit growth. For home cultivation, it can be placed in a bright indoor spot, and strong direct light must be avoided, otherwise the leaf margins are prone to scorching. If kept for a long time in a dim place, the leaves will lose their unique luster. In winter, place it in a bright spot, and also pay attention to cold protection; the room temperature should be kept above 13°C, fertilization should be stopped, and watering controlled. In northern winters, indoor air is dry, so in addition to spraying and washing the leaf surface once every 3-5 days with cool boiled water, it is best to cover it with a plastic film cover at night to keep it warm and moist. If conditions permit, a humidifier can be used to increase indoor humidity. To maintain its gorgeous leaf color, the leaves should also be gently wiped and washed with clean water regularly. Peacock Arrowroot is mostly propagated by division. When dividing, it is best to plant 3-5 plants per pot.
Image:Image:Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum kochii)
Also known as white sail, spathe lily, Spathiphyllum kochii with unequal stalks, and silver spathe lily. Araceae family, genus Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily). Native to tropical regions of the Americas.
Morphological characteristics: perennial evergreen herbaceous plant. Plant height 30-40 cm. Leaves basal, leathery, long oval or broadly lanceolate, with long pointed tips, and dark green leaf color. Leaves 20-30 cm long, about 10 cm wide, petioles about 30 cm long, veins obvious. Because the spathe curled into a spoon shape is as white as a snow lotus and shaped like palms joined together, it is called white palm; because its pure white spathe is like a white boat raising its sail on green water, in social interactions it carries the meaning of a blessing for smooth sailing, to encourage people to strive in life and prosper in career.
Peace Lily is very similar to white Anthurium, also having white spathes, but the leaves and the flower's spathe are somewhat different. The spathe of Peace Lily does not turn outward but curls inward, and the oval spathe is not as bright and leathery as that of white Anthurium.
Cultivated hybrids in the same genus include: Perfumed Peace Lily: its flowers have a faint fragrance. Green Giant Peace Lily: also known as Green Giant, the plant is taller than Peace Lily, the leaves are larger than those of Peace Lily, and the parallel feather-like lateral veins are more obvious, thus appearing more vigorous, and it is a trendy indoor potted plant.
Habits: Likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments, and must avoid direct sunlight; afraid of cold. Avoids heavy clay soil; suitable for sandy loam rich in humus.
Cultivation and management: Peace Lily is relatively shade-tolerant. As long as there is about 60% scattered light, its growth needs can be met, so it can be kept year-round indoors in a place with bright scattered light. In summer, 60%-70% of sunlight can be shaded out; avoid strong direct light, otherwise the leaves will turn yellow, and in severe cases sunscald will occur. In northern winter greenhouse cultivation, no shading or little shading is needed. If the light is too dim for a long time, it is not easy to flower. Peace Lily is a high-temperature-loving species and should be cultivated in a high-temperature greenhouse. In winter, the minimum nighttime temperature should be 14-16°C, and the daytime temperature should be around 25°C. Long-term low temperatures easily cause leaf drop or scorched-yellow conditions.
During the growing period, the potting soil should be kept moist frequently, but overwatering should be avoided; if the potting soil remains wet for a long time, it easily causes root rot and the plant to wither and yellow. In summer and dry seasons, water should frequently be sprayed on the leaf surface with a fine-nozzle sprayer, and water should also be sprinkled on the ground around the plant to keep the air humid, which is very beneficial to its growth and development. When the climate is dry and air humidity is low, new leaves will become smaller and yellow, and in severe cases wither, yellow, and fall off. In winter, watering should be controlled, and it is suitable for the potting soil to be slightly moist.
In the peak growing season, apply a thin compound fertilizer or decomposed cake fertilizer water once every 1-2 weeks; this not only helps the plant grow robustly but also helps it continue flowering. In northern winters, when temperatures are low, fertilization should be stopped.
For potting soil, leaf mold or peat soil can be evenly mixed with about 1/4 river sand or perlite, and a small amount of bone meal or cake residue added as base fertilizer. The potting soil should be loose and have good drainage and air permeability. Generally, once every early spring before large numbers of new shoots sprout, the plant should be repotted; when repotting, remove part of the old soil, trim the root system, add new culture soil, and plant in a pot one size larger, to benefit root development and vigorous growth.
Propagation: Can be propagated by division and sowing, and can also be propagated in large quantities by tissue culture.
1. Division propagation: Because Peace Lily readily produces suckers, this method is mostly used for propagation. A robustly growing plant can be divided once about every 2 years. Before new shoots emerge in early spring, turn the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old soil, and cut the rhizome apart at the base of the clump. Each small clump should preferably have more than 3 stems and buds, and as many roots as possible should be retained, to help the new plant quickly produce new leaves and a full plant shape.
2. Seed propagation: This method is not difficult either. Seeds can be obtained in a greenhouse after artificial pollination. After the seeds mature, sow them as soon as they are harvested; the sowing temperature should be around 25°C, as low temperatures easily cause the seeds to rot.
Pests and diseases: Too much fertilizer and freezing injury easily cause yellow leaf tips. At this time, the soil should be changed immediately.Image:Marianne Dieffenbachia
Dieffenbachia plants are also called mosaic dieffenbachia and silver-spotted dieffenbachia. Native to tropical America, plant height 30-90 cm, flowers upright, internodes short, leaves long oval, slightly wavy at the margins, and the leaf surface is spread with various milky white or milky yellow markings or spots. It is shade-tolerant, and the leaf color is green and graceful. Main cultivated varieties include Marianne, KIKI, Golden Sun, White Jade, Duozai Zebra, Golden Treasure, and Heaven Dieffenbachia.
The suitable growth temperature for Dieffenbachia is 25-30°C, with daytime temperature at 30°C and nighttime temperature at 25°C. The possible growth range is 18-30°C from February to September, and 13-18°C from September to February of the following year. In winter, the temperature should not be lower than 10°C, otherwise the leaves are prone to cold damage.
Dieffenbachia likes an environmental humidity of 80%. When the soil dries to 2 cm at the surface, it should be watered. During the growing period, it should be watered thoroughly and the leaves sprayed with water. If water is not sprayed for a long time, the leaf surface becomes rough and loses its luster. Soil moisture is best kept in an alternating dry and wet pattern; in summer, water more, and in winter, watering needs to be controlled.
Dieffenbachia is shade-tolerant and afraid of sun. If the light is too strong, the leaf surface becomes rough, and the leaf margins and leaf tips are prone to scorching, or even large areas are burned. If the light is too weak, the yellow-white patches will turn green. It grows best under bright scattered light, when the leaf color is brighter and more beautiful.
The soil should preferably be fertile, loose, and well-drained loam. For potting soil, use a mixed soil of leaf mold and coarse sand.
[Propagation methods] Commonly used propagation methods are cuttings, sowing, and tissue culture.
Cutting propagation: Cutting is best done during the high-temperature period from July to August. Cut off 7-10 cm from the top of the stem, remove part of the leaves to reduce water evaporation, insert into a sand bed, or wrap the cut with water moss, maintain relatively high air humidity, and keep the room temperature at 24-30°C. Roots form 15-25 days after cutting. After new shoots sprout on the stem section, transplant and pot.
Seed propagation: Dieffenbachia must be artificially pollinated before it sets fruit. After the seeds mature, they should be sown immediately, and the seeds need to be cleaned thoroughly to prevent mildew and rot. Before sowing, the potting soil should be sterilized. After sowing, cover with 1 cm of soil, keep the room temperature at 24-29°C, and germination occurs 7-14 days after sowing. Transplant when the seedlings are 3 cm tall.
Tissue culture propagation: At present, lateral buds and apical buds have been used as explants. After routine disinfection, they are inoculated on MS medium supplemented with 3 mg/L 6-benzylaminopurine and 2 mg/L naphthaleneacetic acid. After 45 days, when adventitious buds grow to 2 cm, they are transferred to 1/2 MS medium supplemented with 2 mg/L indoleacetic acid, and roots can form in about 20-25 days, forming complete small plantlets.
[Cultivation and management] Dieffenbachia potted plants commonly use 15-20 cm pots. During the growing period, fertilize once every half month, or use "Huiyou" 20-8-20 four-season high potassium nitrate fertilizer. When the room temperature is below 15°C, stop fertilizing. If the winter temperature is below 10°C and watering is excessive, it will cause leaf drop and rot at the top of the stem. If the plant only drops leaves and the stem does not rot, then after the temperature rises again, it can still continue to sprout and unfold leaves. After potted plants have grown for 1-2 years, there are more suckers at the base, and division propagation can be carried out in conjunction with repotting. If the plant grows relatively tall, the aboveground part can be cut off while leaving 2-3 nodes at the base; the remaining stem nodes can still sprout and branch, maintaining a better plant shape.
[Pest and disease control] The main problems are bacterial leaf spot, brown spot, and anthracnose, which can be controlled by spraying 500-fold 50% carbendazim wettable powder. Sometimes root rot and stem rot occur; besides paying attention to ventilation and reducing humidity, 800-fold 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder can be sprayed for control.
[Post-production handling] Dieffenbachia has large leaves with beautiful colored markings and is suitable for potted ornamental display, embellishing living rooms and studies, and is very comfortable and elegant. When used to decorate public places with relatively low light, Dieffenbachia still grows normally, with green leaves and luxuriant branches and foliage, full of vitality, and is especially suitable for arrangements in modern buildings. Dieffenbachia can tolerate 14 days in darkness and can be stored and transported at 15°C and 90% relative humidity.
Image:Beautiful Phoenix Palm
Beautiful Phoenix Palm, also known as soft-leaved date palm, is a foliage plant of the Arecaceae family and the genus Phoenix.
Beautiful Phoenix Palm is an evergreen shrub with a short, thick stem, usually solitary but sometimes clustered, and a plant height of 1-3 m. The leaves are pinnate; when young they are upright, and after growing a little they become slightly curved and drooping. There are long spines on both sides of the base of the petiole, with triangular protrusions, which is one of its characteristics; the leaflets are lanceolate, about 20-30 cm long and about 1 cm wide, relatively soft, and drooping in an arc. The spadix is axillary, 20-50 cm long, and the plants are dioecious. The fruit is about 1.5 cm long, initially pale green, and jujube-red when ripe.
Beautiful Phoenix Palm is native to the Indochina region, and is widely cultivated in various provinces and regions of southern China. There are about 17 species in the same genus, mainly produced in tropical and subtropical regions of Asia and Africa. It likes a high-temperature, high-humidity tropical climate, likes light and also tolerates shade, tolerates drought, tolerates poor soil, and likes fertile sandy loam with good drainage. It has relatively strong cold tolerance and can overwinter safely at around 0°C in winter.
Beautiful Phoenix Palm is mostly propagated by sowing. After flowering, pollination easily leads to fruit set. The fruit matures from October to November; after harvest, sow immediately or sow in spring of the following year. Sow the seeds in river sand and keep the substrate moist. At 20-30°C, seedlings can emerge in 2-3 months or longer. When the cotyledons of the seedlings reach 5-10 cm, apply thin liquid fertilizer, then transplant into pots separately and strengthen water and fertilizer management.
For potted Beautiful Phoenix Palm, 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, and 1 part river sand can be mixed as the substrate, with a small amount of base fertilizer added when planting. It has strong adaptability, and both cultivation and care are simple. During the vigorous growth period from April to September, apply liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month, keep the potting soil moist, and in dry air spray the plant once a day to increase the environmental air humidity, which benefits plant growth; in other seasons, fertilize less or not at all, and keep the potting soil alternately dry and wet. From June to September, when sunlight is strong, shading should be provided (about 50% shading is suitable) to prevent the leaves from turning yellow; in other seasons, give relatively ample light to help the plant grow robustly. Beautiful Phoenix Palm is prone to scale insects when the air is dry and ventilation is poor. If scale insects are found, they should be controlled; generally 800-fold omethoate can be sprayed to kill them, while also improving ventilation and air permeability.
The branches and leaves of Beautiful Phoenix Palm arch and droop like an umbrella, and the leaves are evenly distributed, green, and glossy. It is an excellent potted foliage plant. Using it to decorate interiors can fill them with a tropical flavor. Generally, small and medium pots are suitable for living rooms, studies, and other places, appearing elegant and generous; large potted plants are often used to decorate meeting venues, halls, and so on, appearing solemn and majestic.
Image:Cast Iron Plant
Scientific name: Aspidistra elatior
English name: Common Aspidistra
Also known as: spider-egg plant, ruo leaf
Family name: Liliaceae
Morphological characteristics:
Evergreen herb with rhizomes. Leaves elliptical to narrowly lanceolate, dark green, with slightly wavy margins. Flowers bell-shaped. Flowering period April. Capsule spherical. Likes shade and cannot tolerate strong light; likes warmth and is relatively cold-tolerant; likes moisture, and is suitable for well-drained, fertile sandy loam.Silver Queen
Latin name: Aglaonema commulatum cv. Silvcr Queen
Also known as: Silver Queen dieffenbachia, Silver Queen Chinese evergreen, Silver Queen aglaonema
Botanical characteristics: > It is a perennial herbaceous plant. Plant height 30-40 cm, stems upright and unbranched, internodes obvious. Leaves alternate, petioles long, the base expanded into a sheath, leaves narrow and long, pale green, with gray-green stripes on the leaf surface, relatively large in area.
Silver Queen is famous for its unique air-purifying ability: the higher the concentration of pollutants in the air, the more it can exert its purifying ability! Therefore, it is very suitable for dark rooms with poor ventilation.
This plant with gray-white leaves likes to live in a constant-temperature environment. If watered with warm water, it can survive for a relatively long time.
Can remove: formaldehyde, nicotine
“Silver Queen can absorb the radiation from printers.”Snake Plant
Snake Plant, also known as tiger skin plant and thousand-year plant, is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the Liliaceae family and the genus Sansevieria.
The underground part of the Snake Plant has tough rhizomes, and it has no stem. Leaves clustered, fleshy, linear-lanceolate, hard and leathery, upright, slightly grooved at the base; dark green, with horizontal bands alternating light green and dark green on both sides, slightly covered with white powder. Raceme, flowers white to pale green, with a sweet, light fragrance; flowering period spring and summer. Common cultivated varieties include:
Golden-edged Snake Plant: shaped like Snake Plant, but the leaf margins are bordered with broad golden-yellow bands.
Short-spiked Snake Plant: a dwarf variety, plant height about 10-20 cm, a mutant of the golden-edged Snake Plant, with short and wide leaves that grow in spirally overlapping manner.
Onion-leaf Snake Plant: also called cylindrical-leaf Snake Plant. The leaves are cylindrical, roughly the same thickness from top to bottom of the whole leaf, slightly pointed and thinner at the tip, with longitudinally running shallow grooves on the leaf surface, and each leaf grows independently.
Snake Plant is native to arid Africa and southern Asia, and is cultivated in various places in China. It has strong adaptability, likes warm and humid conditions, tolerates drought, likes light and also tolerates shade. It is not strict about soil, and sandy loam with good drainage is better. Its suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
Snake Plant can be propagated by division and cuttings. After the temperature rises each spring, carry out division in conjunction with repotting, that is, take the whole plant out of the pot, remove the old culture soil, expose the rhizome, and cut it along its direction into several plants, so that each plant contains at least 3-4 mature leaves, then pot them separately with new culture soil. The propagation material for cuttings is the leaf (that is, leaf cuttings), which can be done when the temperature is above 15°C. Cut mature leaves horizontally into 7-8 cm long segments as cuttings, let them dry slightly, and then insert them into river sand. When cutting, be careful not to insert them upside down; maintain a certain humidity, but not too wet, to avoid rot. After about one month, adventitious buds and adventitious roots can grow from the cut surface, forming new plants. Small seedlings propagated by leaf cuttings from golden-edged and variegated varieties are green seedlings, and the golden edges and variegated patterns disappear, reducing ornamental value, so these varieties are not suitable for leaf-cutting propagation and can only be propagated by division.
For potted Snake Plant, equal parts of leaf mold and garden soil mixed with a small amount of decomposed base fertilizer can be used as the substrate. It grows well under conditions of ample light; apart from avoiding direct scorching sunlight in midsummer, it should receive more sunlight in other seasons; if placed in a too dim indoor place for too long, the leaves will become dull and lack vitality. In addition, if it has been placed indoors for a long time, it should not suddenly be moved directly into sunlight; it should first be moved to a brighter place, allowed an adaptation period, and then exposed to sunlight, to avoid burning the leaves. Watering should be moderate, following the principle of preferring dry over wet. At ordinary times, wipe dust from the leaf surface with clean water to keep the leaves clean and bright. In spring, when new plants sprout at the root collar, water appropriately more and keep the potting soil moist; in the high-temperature summer season, also keep the potting soil moist frequently; after late autumn, control the amount of watering, and keep the potting soil relatively dry to enhance cold resistance. It does not have high fertilizer requirements; during the growing season, apply thin liquid fertilizer 1-2 times a month to ensure the leaves are verdant and thick.
The leaves of the Snake Plant are firm and upright, and the leaf surface has tiger-tail-like horizontal band markings alternating gray-white and dark green; its posture is resolute, peculiar, and interesting; it has many varieties, and the plant shape and leaf color vary greatly, exquisite and unique; it has strong adaptability to the environment and is a plant of unyielding character. It is widely cultivated and used, and is a common indoor potted foliage plant. It is suitable for decorating and arranging studies, living rooms, and office leisure places, and can be appreciated for a relatively long time.Lucky Bamboo
Lucky Bamboo, also known as Dracaena sanderiana, is a foliage plant of the Liliaceae family and the genus Dracaena. Lucky Bamboo is an evergreen small tree, with no underground rhizome, and the roots are yellow-brown. The markings and colors on the leaf surface vary by variety. Common cultivated varieties include: Golden-edged Lucky Bamboo: leaf margins golden yellow, center green. It likes high-temperature and high-humidity environments, is not strict about light requirements, likes light and also tolerates shade. Suitable for well-drained sandy loam. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and the overwintering temperature is 10°C.
Lucky Bamboo is propagated by cuttings. Cuttings are mostly carried out in conjunction with shaping and pruning. As Lucky Bamboo grows taller over many years, the leaves at the base of the stem often fall off and the plant shape deteriorates; during the growing season, the stem can be cut into 5-10 cm sections as cuttings, inserted into vermiculite or river sand, and generally roots and sprouts appear in 1-2 weeks.
For potted Lucky Bamboo, equal parts of leaf mold, garden soil, and river sand can be mixed for planting, or coconut coir and leaf mold with a small amount of base fertilizer can be used as culture soil. In management, the key is to master humidity and temperature well. During the growing season, the potting soil should be kept moist frequently, and the leaves should be sprayed with water frequently to maintain relatively high environmental humidity; too dry conditions will cause the leaf tips to dry up; in winter, the potting soil should not be too wet, but the leaves should still be sprayed with water frequently, and at the same time attention should be paid to cold protection, to avoid the leaves turning yellow, shrinking, and even falling off. In the vigorous growing period from May to September, apply liquid fertilizer or granular compound fertilizer 2-3 times a month to keep the leaves green and glossy. It is not strict about light requirements and is suitable for growing under bright scattered light; avoid direct scorching sunlight; if exposed to strong sunlight or dryness, the leaf surface will become rough, scorched, and lack luster, reducing ornamental value.Anthurium
Anthurium scientific name: Anthurium andraeanum
Anthurium aliases: flamingo flower, flamingo lily, Anthurium, red flamingo lily.
Anthurium family and genus: Araceae family, Anthurium genus.
Anthurium origin and distribution:
Anthurium is native to the tropical regions of the Americas and likes warm and humid climatic environments. It likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments, but is not shade-tolerant; it likes sunlight but avoids direct sunlight; it is not cold-tolerant; it likes fertilizer but avoids saline-alkali conditions. At present, greenhouses with light, temperature, and water regulation systems are used for cut flower cultivation. In the frost-free hot areas of Yunnan, simple shade sheds have also produced very good cut flowers and potted flowers. With the improvement of economic levels, Anthurium has good prospects as a high-end flower. The flowers of Anthurium are unique, and the spathes are bright and gorgeous, rich in color, and highly variable. The flowering period is long, flowering continuously throughout the four seasons, and the vase life is very long; the water culture period can reach 1 month, and a single potted flower can last 4-6 months. The suitable growth temperature is 25-28°C, and the overwintering temperature should be kept above 15°C. It requires loose, breathable, well-drained acidic soil rich in humus with a pH of 5.5-6.5.
Anthurium morphological characteristics:
It is a perennial herb of the Araceae family, plant height 30-70 cm, leaves emerging from short stems, leathery, long heart-shaped, entire, petioles hard and slender, 30-40 cm long, about 10 cm wide. Flowers terminal, about 50 cm long, spathe heart-shaped, 10-20 cm long, 8-10 cm wide, surface wavy and wrinkled, spathe with bright waxy luster, spadix cylindrical, upright, about 6 cm long, yellow, at first glance seeming like artificial flowers, with a peculiar and beautiful flower posture; cut flower life can reach more than 30 days, making it a high-grade flower material for flower arrangements. There are many similar varieties, with flower colors including red, peach red, vermilion, white, red with green stripes, green, orange, and so on. The flowering period is long, and it can flower throughout the year. Perennial epiphytic evergreen herbaceous flower. Plant height can reach 1 m, internodes short. Leaves emerge from the rhizome, with long petioles, solitary, oblong-cordate or ovate, deep bright green, glossy. Flower buds emerge from the leaf axils, spathe upright and spreading, leathery, perfectly round-ovate, orange-red or scarlet. Its variant varieties include those with milky white spathes, those inlaid with white-green, multicolored, and those with delicate red edges, extremely variable. Spadix sessile, cylindrical, upright, slightly leaning outward. Flowers bisexual, perianth with four lobes, stamens 4, ovary 2-loculed, each locule with 1-2 ovules. Small berries contain 2-4 seeds, pink, densely clustered on the spadix. It is one of the most precious cut flower varieties today. Because its flowers are bright and eye-catching, covered with wax, and have a long freshness-retention period, it has become an important flower arrangement decoration for high-end occasions.
Anthurium ecological habits:
It likes environments with high air humidity and smooth drainage, and likes shade and warmth. In an environment where the daytime temperature is not higher than 28°C and the nighttime temperature is not lower than 20°C, it can flower and fruit all year round. Above 35°C will cause sunscald, below 14°C will affect growth, and continuous low temperatures below 0°C will freeze the plant to death. It requires air humidity of 80%, soil pH of 5.5, and an Ec value of 1.2 as suitable. It requires loose, fertile soil, and soilless cultivation is best.
Anthurium propagation and cultivation
The most suitable growth temperature for Anthurium is 20-30°C, the maximum temperature should not exceed 35°C, the minimum temperature is 14°C, and below 10°C there is a possibility of cold damage at any time. The most suitable relative air humidity is 70%-80%, and it should not be lower than 50%, because maintaining relatively high air humidity in the cultivation environment is the key to successful Anthurium cultivation. Therefore, leaf spraying should be carried out many times throughout the year. Anthurium is not tolerant of strong light, and year-round cultivation should be under appropriately shaded conditions, that is, in a greenhouse with protective facilities. In spring, summer, and autumn, appropriate shading should be provided, especially in summer when 70% shading is needed. Direct sunlight will make the leaf temperature higher than the air temperature; if the leaf temperature is too high, phenomena such as burning, scorched leaves, fading of flower buds, and slowed leaf growth will occur.
1. Anthurium propagation: Usually by division, but at present tissue culture is mostly used for mass propagation, and seed propagation is used in breeding. For division, in spring, the tiller buds at the rhizome of the adult mother plant can be separated and planted separately; for tissue culture, young leaves are mostly used as explants, and after callus induction and differentiation of clustered buds, roots are then induced to form seedlings. From inoculation to seedling transplanting takes about 4 months, and flowering occurs 2-3 years after planting.
2. Anthurium cultivation: Anthurium is mostly cultivated as a cut flower in greenhouses, and can also be potted for ornamental display. It requires a greenhouse with heating, ventilation cooling, and shading conditions. Soilless cultivation is mostly carried out, and the cultivation substrate is preferably a mixture of 1/3 vermiculite, 1/3 perlite, and 1/3 peat. Usually planting is done from January to May, when the seedlings have grown to 6-7 leaves and are about 30 cm tall. Ridges are made 30 cm high, and planting is done on the ridges with a spacing of 30×40 cm. Drip irrigation is used, and nutrient solution is applied twice a week. During growth, pay attention to temperature, humidity, and light regulation. The suitable temperature is 27-28°C; in the high-temperature summer period, spray water and ventilate to cool down; in winter, keep the nighttime temperature at 15°C. Adjust the light to 20,000-25,000 lux, and provide shading when it is too strong. Strong light and high temperature in summer easily cause leaf burning. Too much watering or poor drainage easily causes root rot. The suitable time for harvesting cut flowers is when the yellow part of the spadix accounts for 1/4-1/3; cut from the base of the flower stalk. After harvesting, insert immediately into water. When transport is needed, fix each stem separately and place them flat in layers in a box. Anthurium lasts a long time in water; during water culture, change the clean water once every 2-3 days, and cut off 1 cm from the base of the flower stalk to keep the cut fresh and facilitate water absorption. It can be stored for 3-4 weeks at 13°C and still remain fresh, and below 7°C cold damage occurs. For potting, the potting soil can be peat or leaf mold plus decomposed horse manure plus an appropriate amount of perlite, or 2/3 leaf mold plus 1/3 river sand. Pot when there are 5-6 leaves; use small pots for small seedlings, and gradually move them into larger pots as they grow, with more broken tiles placed at the bottom of the pot to facilitate ventilation and air exhaust. Repot once every 1-2 years. Watering is best done by spraying the leaf surface to keep the leaves moist. During the growing period, apply thin alum fertilizer water once a week.
Anthurium pest and disease control
The main pests of Anthurium are red spider mites and scale insects; the main diseases are anthracnose and leaf spot, which can be controlled by spraying omethoate and 1000-fold thiophanate-methyl solution respectively.
Anthurium is very popular because of its unique flower shape, brilliant flower color, and year-round flowering, and because it can be cultivated both as a cut flower and appreciated as a potted flower. The spathe of Anthurium used as a cut flower is unusually bright red and waxy and luminous, and the vase life is long. When potted for ornamental display, the green leaves matched with the bright red spathe when it blooms in spring are very beautiful; when there are flowers, enjoy the flowers, and when there are no flowers, enjoy the leaves. It is an excellent small indoor potted flower. It is often used for beautifying and arranging family rooms, living rooms, and meeting rooms. In the global tropical flower trade, Anthurium sales rank second only to orchids. Anthurium is mainly used as a cut flower. In recent years, new multi-flowered varieties have been continuously bred.Green Emerald Philodendron
Green Emerald Philodendron, also known as long heart-leaf monstera and green emerald, is a perennial evergreen climbing foliage plant of the Araceae family and the genus Philodendron.
Green Emerald Philodendron is a climbing species with thick stems and aerial roots at the nodes. Leaves long heart-shaped, 25-35 cm long and 12-18 cm wide, with an abruptly pointed tip, deeply heart-shaped at the base, green, entire, glossy. Young shoots and leaf sheaths are both green. Excellent related varieties in the same genus include:
Red Emerald Philodendron: also known as red emerald, with leaves and stems dark red.
Red-petiole Philodendron: petioles, leaf undersides, and young new growth are often dark red.
Violin-leaf Philodendron: also called split-leaf Philodendron, with violin-shaped leaves, 5-lobed, the basal lobes broad and ear-shaped, narrow in the middle, and the tip long oval, dark green, glossy.
Heart-leaf Philodendron: also known as sharp heart climbing Philodendron and round-leaf Philodendron, with green stems and leaves, and heart-shaped leaves.
Most plants such as Green Emerald Philodendron are native to tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas, climbing and growing on tree trunks and rocks. They like warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. The suitable growth temperature is 20-28°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.
Green Emerald Philodendron is mostly propagated by cuttings, and roots very easily in the high-temperature season. Generally from April to August, cut 3-4 nodes from the stem, remove the lower leaves, and insert the cuttings into a substrate of half leaf mold and half river sand, keeping the substrate and air moist. After 2-3 weeks, they can root and be potted.
The best potting substrate for Green Emerald Philodendron is loam rich in humus and with good drainage. Generally, it can be prepared with 1 part leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part peat soil, and a small amount of river sand and base fertilizer. When planting, a support pole can be placed in the pot, and 3-5 small seedlings planted around it to let them climb and grow. It likes high-temperature and humid environments, and the potting soil must be kept moist, especially in summer when it must not lack water, and the leaves should also be sprayed with water frequently; but water accumulation in the potting soil should be avoided, otherwise the leaves easily turn yellow. Generally in spring and summer, water once a day, and in autumn, water once every 3-5 days; in winter, the amount of watering should be reduced, but the potting soil should not be allowed to dry out completely. During the growing season, attention should often be paid to topdressing, generally fertilizing 1-2 times a month; in late autumn and winter, when growth is slow or stops, fertilization should be stopped. It likes bright light and avoids strong direct sunlight. Generally during the growing season, 50%-60% shading is needed; but it can also endure dim indoor environments, though long-term too weak light easily causes spindly growth, longer internodes, and thin, weak growth, which is unfavorable for ornamental display.
The leaves of Green Emerald Philodendron are broad, large, and deep green. When cultivated as a climber, it can form a green round shape, with a neat and imposing plant form, full of tropical style. It has strong shade tolerance and is extremely suitable for indoor decorative cultivation. It is often cultivated in medium to large sizes and placed in halls, meeting rooms, offices, and other places, and is extremely spectacular.Spider Plant
Spider Plant is a perennial evergreen foliage plant of the Liliaceae family and the genus Chlorophytum. Spider Plant is a perennial herb, with clustered cylindrical fleshy fibrous roots and rhizomes. The greatest characteristic of Spider Plant is that mature plants will from time to time produce runners, and small plantlets will grow at the tips of the runners. The flowering stems are slender, longer than the leaves, and curved and drooping; the flowers are white, several in a cluster, scattered at intervals on the inflorescence axis. The flowering period is between spring and summer, and it can also bloom indoors in winter. At present, in addition to the pure green-leaf type, horticultural varieties of Spider Plant also include large-leaf Spider Plant, golden-centered Spider Plant, and golden-edged Spider Plant. It likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. It has strong adaptability and is relatively drought-tolerant and cold-tolerant. It is not selective about soil and grows better in loose sandy loam. It is not strict about light requirements; generally it is suitable for growing under medium light conditions, and it also tolerates weak light. The suitable growth temperature is 15-25°C, and the overwintering temperature is 5°C.
Spider Plant can be propagated by division. Except in winter when the temperature is too low and unsuitable for division, it can be done in other seasons. For plants potted for 2-3 years, divide the dense potted seedlings into two to several clumps when repotting in spring, and pot them separately to become new plants. Spider Plant can also be propagated using the small plantlets on the runners. During the growing season, cut off the small plantlets on the runners and plant them in culture soil or water; after the small plantlets grow roots, transplant them into pots.
Spider plant pot cultivation commonly uses a mixture of equal parts leaf mold or peat soil, garden soil and river sand, with a small amount of base fertilizer added as the growing medium. Repot once every 2 to 3 years, preparing fresh potting soil. Its fleshy roots have well-developed water-storage tissue and strong drought resistance, but during the vigorous growth period from March to September it needs a large amount of water, so it should be watered and misted frequently to increase humidity; after autumn, gradually reduce watering to improve the plant's cold resistance. During the vigorous growth period, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month. Fertilizer should be mainly nitrogen-based, but gold-centered and gold-edged varieties should not be given excessive nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise the linear markings on the leaves will become less distinct. Spider plants like a semi-shaded environment; if placed in a location with light that is too strong or insufficient, the leaves easily turn pale green or yellow-green, lose their vitality, and lose their ornamental value, and may even wither and die; if exposed to direct sunlight and dry air, spider plants are most prone to scorching, so they should be placed in a cool, ventilated spot, and care should be taken to maintain environmental humidity. Spider plants are not prone to pests and diseases, but if the potting soil is waterlogged and ventilation is poor, besides causing root rot, root rot disease may also occur, so attention should be paid to spraying chemicals for prevention and control.
Spider plant, with stems and leaves like an orchid, stays green all year round; suspended indoors, it can be called an “air flower.” The stolons it sends out from the leaf axils produce many small plantlets with roots that hang down along the pot, very elegant. Spider plant is also called an indoor air “purifier”; it can absorb carbon monoxide, nitrogen peroxide and other volatile gases, purifying the room's air and benefiting human health. However, spider plant often easily has withered leaf tips, affecting its appearance, so attention must be paid to prevention and control. The methods of prevention and control should begin with the causes: There are more than 200 kinds of spider plant, and common ones include gold-edged and silver-edged spider plants, gold-centered spider plant and entire-edged spider plant, among others. Spider plant originates from South Africa, South America and tropical regions of Asia; it likes warmth, semi-shade and moisture, and is not cold-tolerant. If water is insufficient in summer and autumn, or if winter frost is severe, the leaf tips often easily wither. Specific prevention and control methods can be adopted: (1) Regularly pay attention to watering and misting to keep the potting soil and surrounding air moist. Because it has many leaves and is suspended in the air, or placed in a ventilated spot on a balcony, it needs a large amount of water. Thus it is necessary to frequently water and mist the potting soil, leaf surfaces and the area around the pot. Generally in summer and autumn, water and mist 1 to 2 times a day in the morning and evening; in winter and spring, water once every 4 to 5 days, less in winter and slightly more in spring. Only in this way can the potting soil be kept moist and the air humid; at the same time, the spider plant leaves should be promptly cleaned of dust to keep them fresh and enhance their ornamental appeal. (2) Place the flower pot in a semi-shaded spot to prevent strong light exposure. Although spider plant needs an appropriate amount of light, it dislikes direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves easily wither. (3) Spider plant is suitable for a large pot with few plants, and likes sandy loam with good drainage and air permeability. For a medium-sized flower pot, generally planting 2 to 3 plants is suitable. Too many plants means greater water demand; if the pot is small and the soil's water supply is insufficient, the leaves also easily wither. Attention should also be paid to frequently cutting off withered, spoiled leaves. Also, when repotting each spring or autumn, a smaller pot can be changed to a larger pot for planting, while removing excess branches and leaves.Golden Barrel Cactus
Golden Barrel Cactus, also known as Yellow-spined Golden Barrel, is the most charming species of globular cactus in the Cactaceae family, genus Echinocactus. Among cultivated palms there are also several main varieties, such as White-spined Golden Barrel, Wild-spined Golden Barrel, Short-spined Golden Barrel, Golden Barrel Variegata, and Golden Barrel Crested.
Origin and habits: Golden Barrel Cactus originates from the desert regions of Mexico, and is now introduced and cultivated in both southern and northern China. Golden Barrel Cactus likes sufficient sunlight, and mostly prefers fertile sandy loam with good water permeability. During the hot high-temperature period in summer, it should be appropriately shaded to prevent the body from being scorched by strong light.
Morphological characteristics: The Golden Barrel Cactus stem is spherical, the body is dark green, densely covered with yellow hard spines, and the top of the body is densely covered with golden-yellow wool; the flowers are yellow, growing at the top amid the wool, of equal size, very beautiful and spectacular; the fruit is covered with scales and wool, and the seeds are black and smooth.
Propagation techniques: Golden Barrel Cactus is propagated by seed sowing and by grafting offsets. 1. Sowing method: Seeds harvested in the same year have a high germination rate. Sowing is carried out from May to September; 30 to 40 days after germination, the seedling bodies are already the size of a grain of rice or a mung bean, and can be transplanted or grafted onto rootstock to accelerate growth. 2. Offset grafting method: This is grafting seedlings cultivated for more than 3 months onto tender Hylocereus undatus to accelerate growth. When the scion grows to a certain size or the rootstock can no longer support it, it can be cut off, and after the wound dries, it can be rooted by cuttings and potted. In a good environment with fertile soil and circulating air, seedlings grown without grafting also grow quickly. After potting, seedlings or grafted offsets should be placed in semi-shade, avoiding direct sunlight; after 7 to 10 days, if the body does not shrink, they have survived.
Management techniques: Golden Barrel Cactus likes sandy loam containing lime, which can be mixed from equal parts coarse sand, loam, leaf mold and a small amount of aged wall ash. Once a year, the pot should be turned and the soil changed, and old roots cut off. In mid-March, take the body out of the pot, cut off old roots, and do not damage the main root. After cutting, place the plant in a ventilated spot to dry for 4 to 5 days so the cut surface air-dries; the new potting soil used for repotting should use fermented livestock and poultry manure as base fertilizer, add coal ash, plant ash and a small amount of animal bone meal, etc., mix and stir well; the pot should be disinfected by sunlight exposure, steaming and spraying chemicals, to prevent body rot.
Golden Barrel Cactus likes sufficient sunlight, but in summer it should be semi-shaded; when the temperature reaches above 35°C, it should be shaded around noon to avoid strong sunlight scorching the body. Before 10 a.m. or after 5 p.m., it can be placed in sunlight to encourage more flower buds, and to avoid excessive shading causing the body to elongate and reduce its ornamental value. The overwintering temperature should be kept at 8 to 10°C, and the potting soil kept dry. When the temperature is too low, the body will develop yellow spots. In summer, protect it from rain.
Summer is the peak growth season for Golden Barrel Cactus, and water demand increases. If drought occurs, water frequently, preferably in the early morning and evening; never water with very cold water at hot noon, as it easily causes “chilling” and disease. If the potting soil is too dry at noon, a little misting to moisten the pot surface is enough; do not spray water on the top of the body or the grafted area, to avoid water accumulation and rot. During the growth period, apply 1 to 2 times about every half month a dilute fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other components, used together with watering. Organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed and of appropriate concentration.
Golden Barrel Cactus is robust by nature and highly disease-resistant, but in summer, due to factors such as dampness, heat and poor ventilation, it is susceptible to red spider mites, scale insects, whiteflies and other pests and diseases, so prevention and control should be strengthened. For harm from red spider mites, scale insects, whiteflies and other pests and diseases, prevention and control should be strengthened. For red spider mites, use a 1000 to 1500 times dilution of 40% dimethoate or 90% trichlorfon for spray control. When scale insects, whiteflies and other pests are found causing harm, they can be manually wiped off.
Ornamental value: Golden Barrel Cactus has a very long lifespan and is easy to cultivate; adult large Golden Barrel Cacti have abundant flowers and robust bodies, resplendent in gold and jade, with very high ornamental value. Moreover, it is small in volume and occupies little space, making it an ideal ornamental plant for urban home greening.Peace Tree (Cinnamon)
Peace Tree is an elegant name for plants of the cinnamon group in the Lauraceae family, genus Cinnamomum. It is an evergreen small tree, with green branchlets, smooth and without hairs; leaves opposite or nearly opposite, ovate-oblong, with pointed tips, thickly leathery, leaf length about 10 cm to 22 cm, width 5 cm to 8 cm, the upper surface bright green with a metallic luster, the leaf underside gray-green to yellow-green, with three prominent veins, making it a relatively popular foliage plant.
It likes a warm, humid, sunny environment, is relatively shade-tolerant, likes warm and hot, frost- and snow-free, foggy and highly humid environments, and is not tolerant of drought, severe cold or saline-alkali conditions. Cultivation should use loose, fertile, well-drained, organic-rich acidic sandy loam. Its optimum growth temperature is 22°C to 30°C, it is not tolerant of low temperatures below 5°C, and should be brought indoors before Frost's Descent and taken out after Qingming. Its light requirements are that from mid-May to mid-October, 40% to 50% shading should be provided; too strong light easily causes leaf scorching, but placed long-term in a bright indoor spot, it can also grow well. During the growing season, the potting soil must always be kept moist, and the leaf surfaces and surrounding environment should be misted frequently, keeping the relative air humidity at around 80%. In northern regions, 0.1% ferrous sulfate powder should be added to irrigation water, or a small amount of edible vinegar can be dripped in, to increase the water's acidity and meet its need for an acidic soil environment. Potted plants should have the soil loosened once a month during the growing season, always keeping the root system in a well-aerated state. After the plant sends out new leaves, apply a dilute cake fertilizer solution once a month; after autumn begins, apply 2 consecutive topdressings of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution to increase the plant's cold resistance. When fertilizing, avoid raw fertilizer, concentrated fertilizer and heavy fertilizer, and especially prohibit high-concentration chemical fertilizer solutions, otherwise fertilizer damage easily scorches the roots, causing leaves to yellow and scorch and the plant to die.
Under conditions of poor indoor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and insufficient light, the leaves are prone to brown spot disease, but it usually occurs mostly from April to May. Its symptoms are: it mostly occurs on new leaves, beginning with oval yellow-brown lesions appearing on the leaf surface, which then continuously expand, and more small black dots appear within the lesions on the upper leaf surface, while the underside of the lesions is purple; after the whole leaf yellows, it withers and falls off. Prevention and control methods: when a small number of diseased leaves are found, promptly pick them off and burn them. In the early stage of the disease, spray a 500 times dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder, once every 10 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive times. For a small number of lesions on household potted plants, Daktarin cream can be applied, which can inhibit the expansion of the lesions.
Yellowing and falling of leaves may have the following causes: First, newly potted plants bought back from the south have severely damaged root systems, compounded by long-distance transport and cold weather. Second, winter indoor temperatures below 5°C cause yellowing and leaf drop due to cold damage. Third, overwatering leads to root rot, causing the plant to yellow and drop leaves. Fourth, water that is too alkaline causes leaves to slowly yellow. Fifth, improper fertilization, with too much or too concentrated fertilizer, causes the fine feeding roots to lose water, shrink and die. For plants whose leaves have yellowed and fallen, check the root system; if part of the root system has already rotted, cut off the rotted part and replant it with clean, fresh potting soil. Around the cut at the root, a ring of moist fine sand should be placed, which can promote wound healing and the sprouting of new roots. For branches and leaves that have already withered, cut them all off. After repotting, mist more and water less, keeping the potting soil moist. After mid-April, only when the outdoor temperature is not lower than 15°C may it be moved outdoors, and normal fertilization may only be resumed after new leaves grow.Zebra Dieffenbachia
Zebra Dieffenbachia, also called Giant Dumb Cane and Dumb Sugarcane, is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Araceae family, with a cylindrical, fleshy stem often bearing white ring markings, which are the traces left after leaves fall off. The leaves of Zebra Dieffenbachia are long-elliptical, with irregular white or goose-yellow spots and stripes scattered on both sides of the green main vein, appearing especially graceful and elegant, like the stripes on a zebra, hence the name Zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia.
Zebra Dieffenbachia originates from Colombia and likes a warm, humid climate; its optimum growth temperature is 25°C to 30°C, and the indoor temperature in winter should also be maintained at around 15°C, with a minimum of 10°C. Potting soil can be mixed from 7 parts leaf mold, 3 parts loam and 1 part sand. Zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia likes a semi-shaded environment and dislikes direct sunlight, and can be cultivated indoors all year round. It is tolerant of waterlogging; a water tray can be placed under the pot, with water in the tray, so that water continuously seeps through the small holes in the pot bottom to moisten the potting soil. In winter, watering should be controlled, and the lower the temperature, the more attention should be paid to watering less. In winter, some leaves may turn yellow and fall off, but as long as they are not damaged by freezing, new leaves can grow again the following spring. If placed indoors for the winter, growth is weaker and there is a tendency to become leggy; then during the growing season it can be placed outdoors in semi-shade for a period of cultivation, and moved back indoors after its vitality recovers. Fertilization can be carried out during the growing season, depending on growth vigor, once or twice a month, mostly applying decomposed liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer to promote a verdant leaf color, but nitrogen fertilizer should not be used too much.
Its “flower” is the spadix inflorescence with spathe typical of the Araceae family. It rarely or does not set seeds, so it is difficult to propagate by seed. Propagation is basically asexual, with the main methods being tissue culture and cuttings. Tissue culture propagation has a high success rate and low cost, but requires certain equipment and conditions. The cutting method is to cut old stems into 10 to 15 cm small sections in spring, insert them obliquely into sandy soil, keep them moist, and transplant them into pots after they take root and grow leaves; alternatively, during the peak growth season, cut the stem into small sections with one or two nodes, about five or six cm long, let them dry for a few days until the cut is dry, then plant them directly in a pot, keep them moist, and they will quickly take root and grow leaves. One can also cut leafy stem sections and insert them in a transparent glass water bottle, fixing them with white rice stone used for architectural decoration; in about half a month, one can see them grow pure white, jade-like fibrous roots, so one can appreciate both the leaves and the roots. Because its sap is toxic, care should be taken during handling not to let it touch the skin, mouth or eyes. There are more than 30 species in the same genus as Zebra-leaf Dieffenbachia, also of some ornamental value, but this species is the largest, with thick, hard leaves, elegant and beautiful markings and luster, a tall plant and sturdy stems, making it an ideal indoor ornamental treasure.Maidenhair Fern
Maidenhair Fern: also called Wire Grass and Iron-wire Grass, is a perennial herbaceous foliage plant of the Adiantaceae family, genus Adiantum.
Maidenhair Fern is a small to medium-sized terrestrial fern, with a plant height of 10-40 cm. The rhizome is horizontal, densely covered with brown scale hairs; the leaf stalks are slender and hard, like iron wire, hence the name Maidenhair Fern. Its ecological habit is that it likes warm, humid and semi-shaded environments.
Maidenhair Fern is mainly propagated by division. Division is best done in spring before new buds have sprouted, in conjunction with repotting. Turn the plant that has filled the pot out of the pot, remove most of the old potting soil, cut the rhizome, divide into two to several clumps, and pot them separately. In addition, after the spores of Maidenhair Fern mature, they scatter in a warm, humid environment and propagate and grow on their own; when they have grown to a certain size, they can also be potted.
Maidenhair Fern likes loose, permeable, fertile calcareous sandy loam; when potting, the potting soil can be made by mixing equal parts loam, leaf mold and river sand. During the growing season, apply liquid fertilizer once a week, and take care to always keep the potting soil moist and the air humidity relatively high. In dry seasons, water can often be sprinkled on the ground around the plant to increase air humidity. Maidenhair Fern likes bright scattered light and dislikes direct sunlight. If the light is too strong, the leaves yellow and may even die. It likes warmth and is also cold-tolerant; the optimum growth temperature is 13-22°C, and the winter overwintering temperature is 5°C.Dragon Tree (Dracaena draco)
Dragon Tree (Dracaena draco) is a species within the dragon's blood trees, of the Agavaceae family, genus Dracaena.
Dragon Tree was originally a wild plant in the tropical forests of Hainan Island, and after artificial domestication and cultivation, it has now become a shade plant suitable for indoor display.
Morphological characteristics: Evergreen tree. Plant height can reach 10 m, slightly branched. Leaves mostly densely clustered on the flat crown, sword-shaped, 45 cm to 60 cm long, 3 cm to 4 cm wide, hard and upright, bright green. Panicle inflorescence, flowers white with green. Commonly seen in cultivation are stemless or short-stemmed young foliage trees.
Propagation and cultivation points: Can be propagated by cuttings, layering and sowing. Cuttings can be made in early spring using mature thick branches, removing the leaves, cutting into 5 cm to 10 cm sections, placed flat in a hotbed with bottom heat, with the temperature maintained at 25°C to 30°C and relatively humid air; rooting takes about 1 month. For outdoor cuttings in summer, a shade shed must be set up to block light. Sowing can use seeds collected from larger old plants, sown in spring. The cultivation soil should be a mixed fertile soil made of leaf mold, clay loam and sand.
Application value: Dragon Tree is both a foliage flower and a flowering flower, suitable as background material for decorating the rostrum of large conference venues, extremely spectacular. Traditional Chinese medicine can be extracted from the leaf base and stems and branches, with hemostatic effects.Bamboo Palm
[Aliases] Guanyin Bamboo, Palm Bamboo
[Family and genus] Arecaceae, genus Rhapis
[Place of origin] Southeastern, southern and southwestern China, Japan
[Growth habits] Likes a warm, humid, semi-shaded, well-ventilated environment; drought-tolerant, fears scorching sun; the optimum growth temperature is 25-30 degrees; the winter nighttime temperature is best not lower than 5 degrees, but it can withstand short-term low temperatures of around 0 degrees; avoid long periods of cold wind, frost and snow; generally potted plants can overwinter safely indoors.
[Soil] Likes fertile, well-drained sandy loam, and grows well in slightly acidic sandy loam rich in humus.
[Temperature and environment] Likes a warm, humid, semi-shaded, ventilated environment. Grows well in a semi-shaded environment; in summer and autumn, avoid direct sunlight, and about 70% shading is best; in summer especially avoid scorching sun exposure, otherwise the leaves yellow and the plant grows slowly; in winter and spring, more light is better.
[Water and fertilizer] From May to September, the peak growth period, water more to keep the soil moist; better wet than dry, but it must not be waterlogged, otherwise the roots easily rot. During high-temperature periods, also frequently spray water on the leaves and ground to increase air humidity; in autumn and winter, appropriately reduce watering. During the growth period, apply liquid fertilizer once or twice a month to Bamboo Palm, which can promote a deep green, verdant leaf color; stop fertilizing in winter.
[Pest and disease control] In a well-ventilated environment there are few pests and diseases; if ventilation is poor, scale insects and aphids easily occur. If only a small number occur, promptly remove them manually, pay attention to ventilation and air permeability, and promptly prune dead branches and fallen leaves.
[Economic value] This species is a traditional excellent foliage plant of our country, with a compact and elegant plant shape, delicate leaf shape, rich tropical charm, and the elegance of bamboo. Suitable for potted display and appreciation in homes, offices, meeting rooms, entrance halls, etc.Lacy Tree Philodendron
English name: Lacy tree philodendron
Family and genus: Araceae, genus Philodendron
Scientific name: Philodendron selloum Koch
Lacy Tree Philodendron was originally named Philodendron bipinnatifidum (split-leaf philodendron), native to Brazil, Paraguay and other places, a perennial herb. Plant height can reach 1 m, the stem is thick and upright, diameter can reach 10 cm, and the stem has obvious leaf scars and wire-like aerial roots. The leaves extend in all directions from the top of the stem, with leaf stalks about 40 to 50 cm long; the leaf blade is fresh and glossy, ovate-cordate, up to 60 cm long and 40 cm wide, but generally potted ones are only about half that size, with the whole leaf deeply pinnatifid and leathery. The leaves of seedling-stage plants are thinner and triangular; as growth proceeds, the leaves gradually become larger, with more and deeper pinnatifid incisions. Lacy Tree Philodendron likes a high-temperature, humid environment, has no strict light requirements, is not cold-tolerant, and is shade-tolerant; it can be pot-grown in any indoor spot where the light is not too weak. It likes fertile, loose, well-drained slightly acidic soil, and the winter temperature should not be lower than 5°C. It is commonly propagated by cuttings. The best time is from May to September; cut robust stem sections with 2-3 nodes, insert them directly into sphagnum moss or coarse sand, keep them moist, and they can take root in about 20 days. During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist; especially in summer it must not lack water, and frequently mist the leaf surfaces, fertilizing once a month. The plant grows quickly and needs repotting every spring; growth is slow in winter, so fertilization should be stopped and water reduced; household cultivation should be renewed every 3-4 years. Common leaf spot disease and scale insect damage. For leaf spot disease, spray a 1000 times dilution of 50% carbendazim for control; for scale insects, spray a 1000 times dilution of 50% for killing. Lacy Tree Philodendron has a peculiar leaf form and is very shade-tolerant, suitable for indoor hall display, and especially suitable for decorating music tearooms and hotel rest rooms. Species in the same genus include Red-bracted Philodendron.Jade Plant, also known as Swallow's Palm and Sedum Tree, etc., is a plant of the Crassulaceae family, genus Crassula.
Native to South Africa, now cultivated in various places. Evergreen small shrub. Stem cylindrical, gray-green, with nodes. Leaves opposite, flat, fleshy, elliptical, entire, with slightly pointed tips and a rounded base clasping the stem. Flowers red. Likes warmth and dryness, and prefers sufficient sunlight and ventilation. Likes loose sandy potting soil. Dislikes overly wet soil. Propagation is mainly by cuttings. Soft branches or leaves can be used for cuttings. Before inserting, the cuttings need to be dried in the shade. They can be inserted in spring or autumn into moist yellow sand or perlite.
The cultivation and management of Swallow's Palm is simple and extensive, but to achieve a full, robust plant shape and a tree full of flowers as scheduled, there is indeed some work to be done. First, Swallow's Palm grows relatively quickly; every spring it needs repotting, with fertile soil added, and placed in a sunny spot for maintenance. Apply a thin fertilizer solution once every 10 days to half a month, and water once every 2 to 3 days, following the principle of watering when dry and withholding when wet. In the high heat of midsummer, Swallow's Palm is in a semi-dormant state and fears strong light scorching the leaves, so shade maintenance should be done at this time. Stop fertilizing in summer, pay attention to ventilation, and prevent leaves from yellowing and falling. If heavy rain continues, avoid being washed by torrential rain, so as to prevent water accumulation at the roots causing root rot and death. From August to October, when autumn arrives and it turns cooler, Swallow's Palm begins to resume growth, and light should be strengthened again, with shading equipment removed; at this time, fertilization and watering are in principle the same as in spring. Before Frost's Descent, move it into the greenhouse, place it in a sunny indoor spot, stop fertilizing, and control watering, basically watering once every half month, with the amount of water being one-half that of summer. Swallow's Palm is not cold-tolerant in winter, and the temperature should be kept above 7°C. Shape and prune once a year, carried out when repotting in spring or when moving into the greenhouse in late autumn, so as to keep the plant shape simple and elegant all year round.
Swallow's Palm has relatively few pests and diseases, but sometimes suffers from anthracnose and leaf spot disease, which can be controlled by spraying a 1000 times dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder. If indoor ventilation is poor, stems and leaves are easily harmed by scale insects. When pests are found, immediately wash and brush them off manually; when the damage is severe, spray a 1000 times dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate for control.
Jade Plant leaves contain euphol; when the human body comes into contact with the sap flowing from the leaves, it causes skin redness, swelling and pain, and if it splashes into the eyes it can also cause blindness.
Although the Jade Plant is unremarkable in appearance, because this succulent plant has a robust form, is drought-tolerant, easy to cultivate, and has full branches and leaves, with leaves emerald green all year round, and because the swollen nodes on its stem have the posture of an ancient tree trunk, potted Jade Plants are now relatively commonly seen on the balconies of urban and rural residences in the Jiangnan region.
Although the Jade Plant is easy to propagate, easy to plant and easy to manage, it is still common for the Jade Plants on some residents' balconies to be “standing elegantly in the breeze” in spring, summer and autumn, only to become withered and colorless once winter passes, or even become a “bare chicken.” This is mainly because the grower only sees the easy-to-cultivate side of the Jade Plant and ignores its fragile side, still placing it on an open balcony after severe cold arrives and letting it suffer cold wind and freezing invasion, causing the Jade Plant to suffer freeze damage. After freeze damage, the fleshy leaves and tender stems of the Jade Plant begin to show wounds as if scalded by boiling water, then gradually soften and shrivel, and finally fall off; in severe cases only the bare main stem remains.
Therefore, doing a good job of overwintering potted Jade Plants on balconies is very important, and the following aspects should be mainly attended to:
1. Move the pot indoors in time. After winter arrives, move the Jade Plant to an indoor place where 7°C to 10°C can be maintained for warmth. On warmer days, at noon the Jade Plant can be moved to the balcony to bathe in sunlight, and at night it should still be moved indoors.
2. Control the dryness and humidity of the potting soil. In winter, the potting soil should be mainly slightly dry, and fine mist should be sprayed on the leaf surfaces at the appropriate time to supplement water. Under normal circumstances, there is no need to water the potting soil directly.
3. Move into a warm shed for warmth. If conditions permit, the pot can be moved into a warm shed; if not, a plastic film cover can also be used, but attention must be paid to the humidity inside the cover; when excessive moisture is found, promptly uncover the cover for ventilation, to prevent leaf rot.
4. If, due to earlier mistakes in freeze-prevention measures, the Jade Plant has already suffered freeze damage, do not easily discard the plant. As long as the freeze-killed leaves and tender branches are removed and the plump main stem is preserved, with appropriate fertilizer applied in the coming spring, the main stem can still sprout new branches and new leaves; generally after 1 to 2 years of cultivation, it can develop into a perfect Jade Plant again.Dracaena fragrans
Latin name: Dracaena
Dracaena fragrans leaves are broad and linear, dark green, sessile, with slightly wavy leaf margins. Leaves can reach 80 cm long. Suitable for high-temperature, high-humidity environments. Both bright light and shade are acceptable. A dormancy temperature of 13°C is relatively suitable, and it must not be lower than 5°C. Evergreen all year round, strong adaptability, simple management, slow growth, long lifespan. It is an excellent foliage plant for indoors and outdoors, especially indoors.
The maintenance method for Dracaena fragrans is the same as that for Dragon Tree (Dracaena draco).ZZ Plant
A foliage plant of the Araceae family, genus Zamioculcas, native to tropical Africa, evergreen perennial, with underground tubers. There is no main stem above ground; adventitious buds sprout from the tubers to form large compound leaves, and the leaflets are fleshy with short petiolules, firm and deep green, with a bright luster, highly ornamental. Suitable for growth under different light intensities, with strong shade tolerance, known as the “king of shade tolerance,” and is a newly introduced high-grade indoor ornamental plant. The ZZ Plant has huge tubers, which sprout numerous buds and form many small tubers; the compound leaves have a lifespan of more than 2-3 years and are constantly renewed by new leaves. ZZ Plant seedlings do not grow quickly, and can be cultivated for appreciation in small and medium pots, and are also suitable for large combined plantings.
Ecological habits
The ZZ Plant originates from the tropical (savanna) climate zone of eastern Africa with relatively low rainfall, and likes a warm, hot, slightly dry, semi-shaded environment with small annual average temperature variation. It is relatively drought-tolerant, but fears cold, dislikes strong light and scorching sun, and fears heavy, sticky soil and water accumulation in the potting soil; if the potting soil has poor aeration, it easily causes its tubers to rot. It requires loose, fertile, well-drained, organic-rich soil that is acidic to slightly acidic. It has strong sprouting ability; after cutting off the thick, large compound leaves, new leaves quickly sprout from the top of the tuber.
Propagation techniques
Division: In April, when the outdoor temperature reaches above 18°C, take the large ZZ Plant out of the pot, shake off most of the old soil, pull it apart from the weak points where the tubers join, and smear sulfur powder or plant ash on the wounds, then pot and plant separately. Note that when planting, do not bury too deep; burying the top of the tuber 1.5 to 2 cm below the soil is enough. In addition, based on the characteristic that ZZ Plant tubers bear dormant buds, a huge single tuber can be cut into small pieces with 2 to 3 dormant buds; after the wounds dry, first bury and plant them in slightly moist fine sand, and after the cut small tubers grow into independent plants, pot and plant them.
Cuttings: The cuttings can use a single small leaf, a section of leaf rachis with 2 leaves, or a separate section of leaf rachis. From the perspective of rooting effect, cuttings with leaf rachis plus leaves root faster, have a higher sprouting rate, and more easily form larger tubers. Insert a single leaf into a mixed medium of river sand and vermiculite; after 10 to 14 days, a small rooted globular stem forms at the leaf base; after 2 to 3 months of cultivation, it can grow into a small plant, but under normal circumstances the seedling formation rate is not high. If leaf rachis or leaf rachis with leaves is used as cuttings, the medium can be ordinary fine sand, or a medium prepared by mixing peat soil, perlite and river sand in a 3:1:1 ratio; the insertion depth of the cutting is 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length, leaving only the leaves outside the medium; after spraying thoroughly with water, place in a shaded spot, maintain an environmental temperature of 25°C to 27°C, and according to the degree of dryness and humidity of the medium, mist the leaf surfaces 1 to 2 times a day, keeping the medium slightly moist; never make it excessively moist, otherwise it causes the cuttings to rot and leads to cutting failure. When the cuttings form a certain root system, the middle of the root gradually swells to form a globular small tuber, and the tuber gradually enlarges; some of the more tender cutting leaves will yellow and die after potting due to high temperature or poor water management, but the tuber can survive, and old mature leaves and cuttings with total petioles can also maintain greenness and vitality. A small number of tubers can sprout and grow new leaves in the same year, but the growth vigor is weak and growth is slow; the next year the tuber will grow robust new shoots and grow normally.
Cultivation and management
Temperature: The optimum growth temperature is 20 to 32°C. Whether potted or field-planted, small annual average temperature variation is required. For productive cultivation, it is best carried out in a temperature-controllable greenhouse. Every summer, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, the plant grows poorly; measures such as adding black shade netting and spraying water on the surrounding environment should be used to lower the temperature, creating for it a suitable environment with a suitable space temperature and relatively dry air. In winter, it is best to maintain a greenhouse temperature above 10°C; if the room temperature is below 5°C, it easily causes the plant to suffer cold damage and further seriously endangers its survival. In late autumn and early winter, when the temperature drops below 8°C, promptly move it to a bright indoor place; throughout the overwintering period, the temperature should be kept between 8°C and 10°C, which is relatively safe and reliable.
Light: The ZZ Plant likes light and also has strong shade tolerance; a environment with good sunlight but a certain degree of shade should be created for it. It dislikes direct strong light, and especially should avoid the scorching sun after long rain at the end of spring and beginning of summer, and the 5 to 6 hours of unobstructed strong light baking around noon in summer, otherwise the newly sprouted tender leaves are very easily scorched. In productive cultivation, from late spring to mid-autumn, it should be placed under a shade shed with 50 to 70% shading, but it must not be too dark, otherwise it will cause the newly sprouted tender leaves to be slender, the leaf color to yellow and lose spirit, and the leaflets to be sparsely spaced, thus affecting the compact and beautiful plant. For potted plants moved into the greenhouse in winter, supplementary light should be given. Keeping the potting soil on the dry side, the plant can remain disease-free all year. In addition, the newly sprouted pinnate compound leaves do not show obvious phototropism, and the plant shape is good.
Water: To care well for potted ZZ Plants, efforts should be made to create an environment that is both humid and on the dry side. In productive cultivation, for plants placed in the greenhouse, when the room temperature reaches above 33°C, spray the plant once a day. Because this plant has strong drought tolerance, it is better to keep the potting soil slightly moist and on the dry side, but occasionally applying excessive water and fertilizer will not cause root rot. In winter, pay attention to spraying water on the leaf surfaces and the surrounding environment, so that the relative air humidity reaches above 50%. After mid-autumn, reduce watering, or use misting instead of watering, so that the newly sprouted tender leaves can safely pass the winter. In addition, in winter special attention should be paid to the potting soil not being overly moist; being on the dry side is better, otherwise under low-temperature conditions, overly wet potting soil more easily causes the plant's root system to rot, or even the whole plant to die.
Soil: Because of the special climatic conditions of the ZZ Plant's place of origin, it has developed strong drought resistance, so the basic requirement for the cultivation medium is good permeability. The basic requirement for the cultivation medium is good permeability. The cultivation medium is mostly made by mixing peat, coarse sand or washed coal cinder with a small amount of garden soil, and adjusting its pH to between 6 and 6.5, in a slightly acidic state. Because its tubers are huge, the root system is well developed, and the pinnate compound leaves are relatively long, during the growing season its growth should be observed in time to decide whether to repot and change the soil. Always keep the cultivation medium well permeable, so as to create a root environment with good air and water filtration. In the plum rain season, check frequently; when water accumulation in the pot is found, promptly turn the pot and change the soil.
Fertilizer: The ZZ Plant relatively likes fertilizer. Besides adding an appropriate amount of composted cake fertilizer or multi-element slow-release compound fertilizer to the cultivation medium, during the growing season a mixed solution of 0.2% urea plus 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be applied 2 to 3 times a month, or a balanced fertilizer 20-10-20 (20-20-20) can be applied at a concentration of 200 to 250 ppm in combination with calcium nitrate. After mid-autumn, to enable it to pass the winter safely, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and continuously apply 2 to 3 topdressings of 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, to promote the hardening and filling of the young leaf rachis and newly sprouted leaves. After the temperature drops below 15°C, stop all forms of topdressing, to avoid fertilizer damage to the roots under low-temperature conditions.
Pest and disease control
Freeze damage: When the winter temperature drops below 5°C, plus moist potting soil, it easily causes the plant's tender leaves to collapse from freezing cold, and in severe cases causes the tubers to rot, making it very difficult to recover vitality.
Prevention and control methods: In productive cultivation, during the overwintering period the greenhouse temperature should be maintained at not lower than 10°C, and the potting soil should be kept slightly dry.
Scald: In the hot summer, or in sunny weather after long rain clears, or for potted plants that have been placed indoors for a long time and have just been moved outdoors for restorative care, direct exposure to sunlight easily causes their plump tender leaves to be scorched, causing part of the leaf to lose green and turn white, or the entire leaf to be scorched, with the necrotic part later turning brown and black.
Brown spot disease: This disease mostly occurs on leaves; the lesions are nearly circular, gray-brown to yellow-brown, with the edge slightly darker in color. This disease easily occurs under conditions of high temperature and high humidity and poor ventilation. Prevention and control methods: when a small number of diseased leaves are found, promptly pick them off and destroy them; in the early stage of the disease, use a 600 times dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder or a 500 times dilution of 40% chlorothalonil suspension, spraying the leaves once every 10 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive times, with relatively good control effect.
Prevention and control methods: After summer begins, promptly move the plant to a semi-shaded environment; at the end of spring and beginning of summer after long rain clears, promptly shade the potted plant.
Scale insects: In environments with poor ventilation and insufficient light, the leaves of the ZZ Plant are easily harmed by the piercing and sucking of scale insects.
Prevention and control methods: In productive cultivation, at the peak hatching period of the nymphs, spray a 1000 times dilution of 20% buprofezin wettable powder, with good insecticidal effect.
Radermachera
Generally refers to “Radermachera sinica” of the Bignoniaceae family, genus Radermachera.
Radermachera sinica, also called Pepper Tree and Bone-setting Umbrella, is a deciduous tree native to southern China, of the Bignoniaceae family, genus Radermachera. Judging from collected pictures, “Radermachera” mainly refers to Radermachera sinica, whose scientific name is Radermachera sinica. Young branches have sticky fluid; 1- to 3-pinnate compound leaves; leaflets entire, stalked; bark light gray, deeply longitudinally fissured. The capsule is long and strip-shaped, leathery, 85 cm long, about 1 cm in diameter. It is mainly distributed in Taiwan, China, Guangdong, Hainan, Guangxi, Guizhou, Yunnan and other places, and is also distributed in Bhutan. Because its leaves are verdant and glossy, with a metallic luster, and it likes light yet is extremely shade-tolerant, potted young trees are high-grade foliage plants.
Radermachera sinica likes a high-temperature, humid environment, and can be propagated by cuttings, sowing, layering and other methods. Cultivation is best with sandy loam; it can tolerate full sun or semi-shade; the optimum growth temperature is 18°C to 28°C, and a pruning and shaping should be carried out before spring sprouting. During indoor display, besides keeping the potting soil moist, the leaf surfaces should also be misted frequently, and it should be placed in a bright spot.
It should be especially pointed out that in winter, the greenhouse temperature should be kept not lower than 8°C, otherwise cold damage easily occurs, or even the whole plant dies; control watering, and do not water until the surface soil is dry. If the room is too dry, water can be sprayed on the plant and surrounding environment; do not apply fertilizer.False Aralia
False Aralia is an evergreen small tree or shrub of the Araliaceae family, genus Plerandra. Height can reach 3 m. Leaves alternate; palmately compound leaves have 7-11 leaflets, shaped like slender fingers, with coarsely serrate leaf margins, arranged radially and alternately. The leaf surface is leathery, dark green, with a copper-red metallic luster on the leaves. When it grows above 2 m, the fine leaves will turn into broad leaves; this is its special characteristic. Suitable for arrangement in relatively bright places such as spacious conference halls and dining rooms, and can also be used as decoration for the entrance halls of hotels and buildings, rich in southern charm. Regarding the specific measures of cultivation and management, they are described as follows:
1. Likes humus-rich loam; best to use a potting soil made by mixing leaf mold, garden soil and river sand. From April to August, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every half month.
2. Likes brightness, dislikes scorching sun; the optimum growth temperature is about 20-28°C; when air humidity is high, growth is more robust. In summer, if outdoors, 50% shading is required; indoor temperature is generally kept at 20°C to 30°C; the overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C; if below 8°C, it is easily damaged by freezing.
3. Requires moist potting soil; dislikes dryness and also dislikes waterlogging. Too dry easily causes leaf tips to dry up; frequently mist the leaf surfaces and around the plant to maintain air humidity. In winter, watering should be reduced as much as possible; cold and damp easily causes leaf drop.
4. For plants that grow too weak and slender, heavy pruning can be carried out when new leaves sprout, leaving about 10 cm at the base; if the upper branches are dry, heavy pruning is also suitable, to promote the sprouting of branches and leaves.
5. Mostly propagated by cuttings. From May to June each year, cut off one-year-old lignified branches and insert them for cutting in an environment of 20°C; rooting and survival occur in about 30-odd days. Sowing propagation can also be used, but seeds are not easy to obtain, and must be kept fresh.
6. Potted plants should be repotted and the soil changed once every 2-3 years; after changing the soil, the branches should be pruned. After many years of planting, if the plant ages and its vitality deteriorates, heavy pruning should be carried out in spring, and then sufficient fertilizer should be given to promote the sprouting of new branches and leaves, making the tree shape more beautiful.Monstera
Monstera, also known as Penglai Banana and Wire Orchid, is an evergreen large climber of the Araceae family, genus Monstera.
Origin and habits: Native to Mexico and Central America. It likes warmth, shade and humidity, dislikes direct sunlight, and requires fertile, well-drained soil.
Morphological characteristics: Monstera vines can reach more than 10 m long. The stem is thick, aerial roots can reach 1 to 2 m, growing horizontally, slender columnar, brown. Leaves are heart-shaped and without holes when young; after growing up they become pinnately deeply lobed, with perforations between the veins, leathery, drooping.
Propagation techniques: Monstera is propagated by layering and cuttings. Layering is carried out from May to August, and after about 3 months it can be cut away from the mother plant. Cuttings are carried out from April to May; cut the scion from the tip of the stem node, each section with 2 to 3 stem nodes, remove the aerial roots, and insert with leaves or without leaves into a sand bed, maintaining a certain temperature and humidity, and after rooting, move into pots.
Management techniques: For potted Monstera, leaf mold is best. During the growth period, water must be sufficient; when potting and repotting, leave a 5 to 6 cm deep rim to facilitate more watering; the potting soil must always be kept moist, watering once every 2 to 3 days; in dry weather, water should also be sprayed on the leaf surfaces to keep the air humid, following the watering principle of better wet than dry, to facilitate branch and leaf growth and bright leaves. In autumn and winter, gradually reduce watering. Excessive watering causes root rot, but the air should still be kept relatively humid; mist the leaf surfaces once every 7 to 10 days to keep the plant and leaves fresh and evergreen. Monstera relatively likes fertilizer; to make it grow vigorously, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month from April to September. During the growing season, pay attention to shading; semi-shade is best; avoid direct strong light, and especially in midsummer it must not be placed in direct sunlight, otherwise it easily causes leaves to scorch and burn, affecting ornamental value.
For large potted plants, use 1 wooden stick 1.3 to 1.5 m long, insert it into the pot, and plant the Monstera, first to prevent lodging, and second to attach to the column and grow luxuriantly. Alternatively, cut the overly tall stem for propagation, letting the mother plant sprout new stems and new leaves again. In winter it needs to be placed indoors above 10°C, but at least maintain a temperature above 5°C, otherwise the leaves will freeze and scorch, and the potting soil should be on the dry side. During the growth period, Monstera often develops brown spot disease and anthracnose, which can be promptly controlled by spraying a 1000 times dilution of 50% thiophanate-methyl and 75% chlorothalonil, or an 800 to 1000 times dilution of 50% carbendazim. In summer and winter when ventilation is poor, scale insects and noctuid moth larvae often occur on the back of the stem, sucking sap and eating tender leaves; the insects can be caught manually or brushed off, and it is best to spray a 1500 times dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate or a 2000 times dilution of 40% isocarbophos emulsifiable oil, or a 1500 times dilution of 40% profenofos emulsifiable concentrate for killing.
Monstera is a shade-tolerant foliage plant. Generally speaking, it can be maintained indoors for a long time, but during the growth period it is best placed in a ventilated spot near a window indoors, to receive outdoor air and light. In the peak growth seasons of summer and autumn, if ventilation is poor, its growth will be affected; the newly grown leaves are relatively thin, pale and lusterless, reducing ornamental value.
Growing Monstera deliciosa at home has a certain air-purifying effect. It is commonly planted in small to medium pots and placed in indoor living rooms, bedrooms and studies, or it can be grown in large pots and placed in hotels, restaurants, lobbies and indoor spaces, or beside garden ponds and under large trees, giving a strong tropical feel. The leaves can also be used as cut-flower foliage. Monstera deliciosa has been introduced and cultivated fairly widely in China; the beautiful, unusual and varied Monstera deliciosa is a well-known indoor potted foliage plant that people love. Monstera deliciosa is known for its tolerance of shade and is suitable for display and accent in indoor living rooms and corridors. In the south it is often planted loosely in courtyards, beside park ponds, along streams and ditches, beside rocks and in rock crevices. The holes and notches on the leaves of Monstera deliciosa are sometimes open and sometimes solid, novel and interesting, and the aerial roots hanging over the rim of the pot are simple and elegant.Guzmania
Also known as the star bromeliad. A perennial epiphytic herbaceous plant. Potted plants are about 30 cm tall, and the crown can reach 80 cm across. The leaves are arranged in a somewhat loose rosette. The flower scape usually rises more than 20 cm above the leaf cluster, and the flower scape, bracts and several leaves at the base of the scape are all red, very showy; among the bracts there are small yellow flowers; the flowering season is spring; although the true flowers open for a relatively short time, the colorful scape and bracts last a long time, with an ornamental period of about 2 months. It is suitable for cultivation indoors under bright indirect light and can be placed by a bright window for year-round enjoyment. If the light is too dim, it is not easy for it to bloom. There are “Hongxing” Guzmania, “Torch” Guzmania, and “Dennis” Guzmania.
Temperature: normal growth temperature is above 20°C during the day and above 15°C at night; when forcing flowers, the temperature is 25-30°C; the minimum overwintering temperature is above 10°C.
Light: likes bright light. Avoid direct summer sunlight, shade about 50%, and do not shade in winter.
Water: keep water in the leaf cups at all times, replacing it once every 2 weeks; water when the surface 1 cm of the potting soil becomes dry; water with soft water or rainwater.
Air humidity: frequently spray water on the leaves and around the plant, and foliar feeding can be done by spraying.
Repotting: after flowering, if division propagation is not carried out, repot when the stems become very crowded.
Propagation: when the offshoots at the base grow to about 10 cm or more in height, cut them off from the base, let the wounds dry slightly, and pot them in fertilizer-free peat soil. Keep them slightly moist, and they can take root in about one month.Green Stem Chamadora
[Aliases] Hawaiian palm, Chamaedorea seifrizii, bamboo palm
[Family and genus] Ceroxyloideae, Chamaedorea
[Place of origin] Tropical regions such as Mexico and Guatemala
[Growth habits] Likes high temperature and high humidity, tolerates shade, fears direct sunlight, and can endure short periods of low temperatures of 1-2 degrees
[Soil] For potting, use a loose, well-aerated, well-drained sandy loam rich in humus
[Temperature and environment] This species likes high temperature and high humidity environments. The optimum growth temperature is 20-30 degrees. In winter, keeping the temperature above 10 degrees allows normal growth, and it can also tolerate short periods of 0 degrees. It has strong shade tolerance and can grow for a fairly long time in indoor environments with dim light. But bright indirect light is beneficial for growth. Avoid strong direct light, otherwise the leaf color will fade or turn yellow
[Watering and fertilizing] During the growing season, keep the potting soil moist at all times. When the air is dry, frequently spray water on the leaves to increase the air humidity of the environment, which benefits plant growth and helps keep the leaves deep green and glossy; in late autumn and winter, reduce watering appropriately and keep the potting soil moist to enhance the plant's cold resistance for overwintering. During the growing season from March to October, apply liquid fertilizer or granular compound fertilizer once every 1-2 weeks to promote leaf growth and deep green leaf color
[Pest and disease control] Under high temperature and high humidity conditions, this species may develop brown spot disease and downy mildew, which can be controlled by spraying with a 1000-fold solution of carbendazim or thiophanate-methyl
[Economic value] The stems of this species resemble green bamboo, the branches and leaves are dense, the leaf color is deep green and glossy, and the pinnate leaflets are elegant, giving a sense of uprightness, refinement, lightness and grace, and delicate beauty. Because of its extremely strong shade tolerance, it is very suitable for courtyard landscaping and indoor potted ornamental displayGreen Yuanbao
Original name: Castanospermum australe
Other names: Australian chestnut, green yuanbao, happy nut
Scientific name: Castanospermum australe
Origin of the name: It is called green yuanbao because its seed resembles the shape of a yuanbao, so this name was chosen to invite good fortune.
Distribution: Native to Australia
Family and genus: One view: Fabaceae; another view: Fabaceae, Castanospermum
Form: A medium tree with odd-pinnate compound leaves and alternate leaflets; the leaf shape is lanceolate-oblong, about 8-12 cm long, entire and leathery. The pod is up to 20 cm long, and the seed (that is, the green yuanbao) is oval, as large as an egg, and can be roasted for eating.
Uses: Young plants of Castanospermum australe can be used as small potted plants for indoors; mature plants can grow to more than 12 meters and are suitable as ornamental garden plants or street trees.
Sunlight: Young plants tolerate shade, with about 50-70% sunlight; mature plants need sufficient sunlight
Management: Likes high temperatures; the most suitable growth temperature is 22-30 degrees.
The ornamental focus of Castanospermum australe seedlings is the swollen basal seed ball and the buds that grow from it, so it must be kept clean and glossy; when watering daily, be careful not to splash muddy water, and keep the surface in the pot level.
Water: Suitable for planting in loose, fertile loam or sandy loam, and drainage must be good. Avoid prolonged moisture in winter.
Fertilizing: Fertilize once every 2-3 months during the growing season
Propagation: Propagated by sowing, with spring and autumn being the most suitableCyclamen
Cyclamen: also known as rabbit ear flower, radish begonia, etc. Scientific name Cyclamen Persicum. It is a perennial herbaceous plant of the genus Cyclamen in the family Primulaceae, with an unusual flower shape. The leaves emerge from the top of the tuber and are heart-shaped, ovate or kidney-shaped, with fine serrations along the leaf margin; the upper leaf surface is green with white or gray mottling, and the underside is green or purple; the petiole is relatively long, reddish-brown and fleshy. Flowers are solitary at the top of the flower stalk, nodding, with the petals rolled upward, especially like rabbit ears; the flowers come in white, pink, rose red, bright red, purplish red, snow blue and other colors, often with dark red markings at the base; the petal margins are varied, including entire, notched, wrinkled and wavy forms.
Cyclamen is native to southern Europe, the Mediterranean coast and other places. It likes a warm, humid, cool environment with soft light. The suitable growth temperature is 15°C-20°C. It is not cold-tolerant and fears high temperatures and strong sun. It is suitable for well-drained, humus-rich, slightly acidic sandy loam.
Cyclamen is a light-loving flower, and winter and spring are also its vigorous flowering and blooming period. To make the flower buds plentiful, give sufficient sunlight during the bud stage, place it in a sunny indoor spot, and apply phosphate fertilizer once every week, preferably watering with a 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate compound fertilizer solution (containing medium and trace elements such as zinc, boron, molybdenum, manganese, magnesium, copper, iron and sulfur), using about 150 ml per pot. At ordinary times, water once every one or two days to keep the potting soil moist. Never water heavily; water only when the potting soil has dried. But be sure not to let the potting soil become too dry, as excessive dryness will damage the root hairs and cause the upper part of the plant to wilt, and even heavy watering afterward will make it difficult to recover. When watering, the water temperature should be close to room temperature.
Do not apply nitrogen fertilizer during the flowering period, otherwise it will cause excessive growth of branches and leaves and shorten the life of the flowers. If the leaves are too dense, thin them appropriately so that nutrients are concentrated and flowering is more abundant. When removing leaves or dead flowers, to prevent infection by soft rot, immediately spray once with a 1000-fold “carbendazim” solution.
When cyclamen begins to bloom and continues to form flower buds, the room temperature should be kept at 15°C to 18°C, and must not be lower than 10°C. If the temperature is too high, the flowering period will be shortened; above 28°C the leaves turn yellow. Never place the flower pot on a radiator.Umbrella Tree
Umbrella tree, also known as Queensland umbrella tree, Queensland shade tree, Australian ivy palm, commonly called money tree, is a woody foliage plant of the genus Schefflera in the family Araliaceae.
The umbrella tree is a shrub with upright stems and few branches; the young stems are green and gradually become woody later; the bark is brown and smooth. The leaves are palmately compound, and the number of leaflets varies greatly with growth: 3-5 when young, 9-12 when grown, and up to 16. The leaflets are oblong-elliptic, with a blunt apex and a short abrupt tip, and a blunt base; the leaf margin is wavy and leathery; when young they are densely covered with stellate short hairs, and when slightly larger they are clean and hairless. The leaves are 15-25 cm long and 5-10 cm wide; the upper surface is deep and glossy, the underside is light green, and the petiole is reddish-brown. Umbellate inflorescences, with small white flowers at the top, flowering in spring, but potted plants rarely bloom.
The umbrella tree is native to Australia and some small islands in the Pacific, and is also distributed in tropical areas of southern China. It is suitable for warm, humid and well-ventilated environments, likes sun and also tolerates shade, and grows well in loose, fertile, well-drained soil.
The umbrella tree can be propagated by sowing and cuttings. When sowing, it is best to sow the seeds immediately after collection, as this gives a high germination rate. Cuttings can be taken in spring, summer and autumn; generally, cuttings are combined with shaping: cut the branches of irregularly shaped plants at 10-15 cm above the potting soil surface, allowing the mother stems to sprout several branches and cultivate a good tree shape. Cut the removed semi-lignified branches into stem sections 8-10 cm long with 2-3 nodes, and insert them into a cutting bed of river sand or perlite, maintaining a certain substrate humidity and air humidity, and paying attention to shading. Generally they can take root in about one month. For thick, large branches with a high degree of lignification, air layering can also be used.
For potted umbrella trees, a mixture of garden soil and leaf mold can be used as the substrate. March to October is its vigorous growth period, with a relatively large amount of growth; generally fertilize once a month, while keeping the soil moist, ensuring sufficient water, and frequently spraying the leaves to avoid dry air and leaf chlorosis and yellowing. In summer, be sure to avoid direct sunlight and provide appropriate shading, generally 30-40% shade, to prevent the leaves from losing their luster or being scorched and turning yellow from harsh sun exposure. Indoor display should be placed in a spot with some diffused light, and attention should be paid to ventilation. In late autumn and winter, reduce watering and control fertilization; in late autumn, foliar feeding can be done by spraying 0.3-0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and other phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to promote branch and leaf maturation and improve cold resistance in winter. Under conditions of high temperature and high humidity with poor ventilation in greenhouses and indoors, anthracnose or damage from scale insects and red spider mites may occur, so observe carefully and control promptly.
The leaves of the umbrella tree are broad and soft, drooping, shaped like an umbrella; the branches and leaves are layered, the plant shape is elegant, and the posture is light yet not thin, with a strong sense of layering, so in recent years it has been widely cultivated in all provinces and regions of China. The umbrella tree tolerates shade and is convenient to manage and maintain. It can be placed indoors continuously for a long time. It is an excellent medium to large foliage plant suitable for display and decoration in hotels, meeting halls, living rooms, corridors and passageways, and is also a quite ideal accent plant for corners of family living rooms, studies and bedrooms.Greater Periwinkle
Scientific name: Vinca major
Aliases: trailing periwinkle, periwinkle
Family and genus: Apocynaceae, Vinca
Native to the Mediterranean coast, India and tropical America. It is cultivated in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Taiwan, China. An evergreen trailing subshrub, clump-forming. Vegetative stems lie prostrate or flat on the ground. Flowering branches are upright, 30-40 cm tall. Leaves are opposite, elliptic, with an acute apex, green and glossy; the petioles on flowering branches are short. The whole plant is hairless except for hairs on the leaf margins, petioles, calyx and throat of the corolla. Flowers are solitary in the leaf axils of flowering branches, with a salverform corolla, blue, 5-lobed. Fruits are paired and upright. Flowering period is April-May. The cultivar Variegata has slightly smaller leaves with yellow markings.
Greater periwinkle likes warm, humid, semi-shaded and well-ventilated environments. It has strong adaptability and grows rapidly, with growth peaks in June-August and October each year. It is not strict about light, and grows best especially in semi-shaded environments.
Greater periwinkle is commonly propagated by cuttings and division. Propagation can be carried out in spring, summer and autumn, and it is easy to survive. When taking cuttings, cut 3-4 nodes of semi-lignified stems as cuttings. Since root buds grow from the nodes, 1-2 nodes must be buried in river sand soil when cutting, and pressed firmly, with timely watering to keep moist. Generally they can take root and sprout in 1-2 weeks. When the plant grows to 20-30 cm, it can be transplanted for planting. Transplanting can be done throughout the year except in the severe cold of winter. In addition, during the growing season, dense clumping plants can be divided along the rhizomes for division propagation.
Greater periwinkle cultivation requires loose, humus-rich sandy loam; for potting, a mixture of leaf mold, garden soil and river sand can be used as the substrate. Several plants can be planted in each pot at the same time, and timely pinching can help it quickly take shape. To promote more branching, pinching can be done several times during the growing season, and mounding soil at the nodes can produce more adventitious roots and promote vine growth. Because it grows quickly, it needs sufficient watering during the growing season, and at the same time apply liquid fertilizer 1-3 times a month to ensure rapid growth of the vines and deep green, glossy leaves. It is suitable for a bright light environment. But in midsummer, avoid strong direct light to prevent scorching the leaves; appropriate shading is necessary, and a semi-shaded environment is best. Although greater periwinkle prefers warmth for growth, it is also cold-tolerant and can withstand low temperatures of about 0°C in winter.
Greater periwinkle is an excellent groundcover plant material and can be planted in large patches at forest edges or under forests. It is especially suitable for planting on building foundations and slopes, where it helps conserve soil and water.