Kalanchoe not growing leaves or blooming? You may have overlooked these points

  Recently, a fellow flower lover told me in the comments that their kalanchoe barely grows any leaves, let alone blooms, with no sign of flowering at all, which is so frustrating. I know that kalanchoe is a very popular flowering plant, and its blooming period is long, with a whole potful of flowers when it blooms. Many flower lovers like to grow kalanchoe at home. So how should kalanchoe be cared for? Come and take a look with me.

  Fertilizer needs 

  Kalanchoe is a plant that likes fertilizer, but it depends on the stage. Kalanchoe may be a bit different from other flowers: it enters dormancy in summer, so at that time you must not apply too much fertilizer; a few slow-release fertilizer granules are completely enough. If you see that your kalanchoe's leaves are barely growing and only the stems are growing leggy, then you may need to use a little chlormequat, but don't use too much. Generally, when the plant grows to about 10 cm, you can spray it once, and the leaves will grow especially large, and the shape of the plant will also become more attractive.

  Proper shading 

  Kalanchoe likes to grow in a warm, humid environment, so in summer you must provide proper shade. In summer, the light is usually very intense, so shading is necessary. If you leave it exposed under the sun, it can easily die. Moreover, kalanchoe is dormant in summer, so at that time it doesn't need much light either.

  Don't water too frequently

  Kalanchoe has good drought tolerance, but it is especially afraid of waterlogging. If you water too much and water accumulates in the pot, the kalanchoe will soon die. And if the potting soil for kalanchoe stays moist for a long time, the roots can easily rot. So, it's best to water only after the potting soil has dried out thoroughly; otherwise it will just grow leggy, and the leaves will be rather thin and weak.

  Proper pruning 

  For kalanchoe, proper pruning is very necessary. Generally speaking, pruning kalanchoe means pinching off the growing tips. Just remove the top young buds of the plant; the height of the kalanchoe should not exceed 15 cm, so that it will grow more attractively. Don't throw away the pruned branches either; stick them in soil and they will soon take root, and then you can have more kalanchoe plants.

  Prevention of pests and diseases 

  The pest kalanchoe is most prone to is aphids. There's no need to buy any insecticide; homemade plant-ash water works very well. If you don't deal with these pests and diseases in time, then there's no point talking about whether the kalanchoe's leaves will grow large or not.

  The above are the kalanchoe care tips I have put together. Flower lovers who like it can give them a try.

What plants bloom in autumn

Spring brings flowers and autumn brings fruit; autumn is not only fading yellow, it can also be colorful, red, yellow, green... Let's take a look at the colors of autumn together!

1. Autumn flower - Osmanthus

Osmanthus is one of China's ten traditional famous flowers; its freshness can banish all dust, and its rich fragrance can carry far, which is regarded as one of its outstanding traits. Especially in mid-autumn, when osmanthus blossoms bloom one after another, and on a quiet night with a full moon, drinking wine while enjoying osmanthus, the lingering fragrance fills the nose and makes one feel refreshed. In some ancient Chinese poems, osmanthus often appears. There is also that folk song: In August, osmanthus fragrances fill the air...

2. Autumn flower - Chrysanthemum

The chrysanthemum has no small pedigree. Although it has been overplayed in recent years, people's love for it still cannot be stopped. The chrysanthemum is the third of China's ten famous flowers, one of the four gentlemen among flowers, and one of the world's four major cut flowers. "Picking chrysanthemums by the eastern fence, leisurely I see the southern mountains" - who doesn't know such a famous line praising chrysanthemums! In ancient times, chrysanthemums were given the meaning of good fortune and longevity, and every Double Ninth Festival there was the custom of enjoying chrysanthemums and drinking chrysanthemum wine. This Double Ninth Festival, don't forget to go and admire the beauty of chrysanthemums!

3. Autumn flower - Phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis should be considered one of the more delicate varieties. Without a good growing environment and solid flower-growing skills, it is very hard to keep alive, let alone get it to bloom! Phalaenopsis that blooms in autumn is very gorgeous, and it also symbolizes the meaning of good luck coming, so it is deeply loved by everyone.

4. Autumn flower - Begonia

Begonia is relatively easy to grow; ordinary cuttings can take root, so presumably many flower lovers have a pot of begonia like this at home. When several pots of begonia are placed in a row, the flowers forming a large mass are very spectacular and beautiful. Among begonias, wax begonia and autumn begonia both bloom very brightly in autumn, conveying a festive atmosphere.

5. Autumn flower - Verbena

Verbena has a short, sturdy habit, and the plant often grows in a creeping form, making it a very good urban landscaping plant. Verbena comes in many colors; planted in masses in flower beds, on slopes, and in green belts, the various colors look like a rainbow spread over the ground under the sunlight, extremely beautiful! When you go out, don't overlook the beautiful scenery by the roadside!

6. Autumn flower - Hibiscus

Hibiscus is an important flower of summer and autumn. Its flowers bloom successively starting in July, and the flowering period lasts as long as 4 months. In the south it is mostly used as a flowering hedge or green hedge, while in the north it is often planted in courtyards or grown indoors as a potted ornamental. Because hibiscus has strong resistance to sulfur dioxide and chlorides and also has a certain dust-retention function, it is a major landscaping tree species for polluted factories. By the busy streets, you can see hibiscus plants.

7. Autumn flower - Rosemary

Rosemary is a valuable natural aromatic plant. During growth it gives off a fresh fragrance that can refresh the mind. I won't go on and on about the specific benefits; in short, the effects are very good. In other seasons rosemary has green leaves, but in autumn it produces small purple flowers, and the fragrance becomes even stronger.

8. Autumn flower - Golden Camellia

That's right, the name of this flower refers to the twin sister of camellia and sasanqua, and it is one of the national first-class protected plants, which sounds very high-end. Golden camellia is golden yellow, very dazzling and eye-catching. The surface of the flower seems to be coated with a layer of wax, crystal clear and oily, as if semi-transparent. It is a rare flower variety with golden yellow flowers. Abroad, this flower is called the magical Oriental tea, and is praised as the giant panda of the plant kingdom and the queen of the tea family. If you can see golden camellia, you must cherish it, and the key thing is not to forget to share it with your friends!

9. Autumn flower - Mimosa

Mimosa: in most people's impression, the most distinctive feature of mimosa is its leaves, which close as soon as they are touched. In fact, mimosa's flowers are also very beautiful, numerous and elegant, delicate and charming, giving people an impression of fragility and grace. When mimosa is in bloom it can be given as a gift; covering the pot with pink gauze and tying on a pink bow makes it an especially special and interesting present.

10. Autumn flower - Chinese rose

The Chinese rose is called the queen of flowers, and is also known as monthly red, so it is not surprising at all to see Chinese roses in autumn!

Complete flower planting manual

Flower planting manual

Key points for spring flower planting

Flower planting manual (February chapter)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the cold period second only to January in the year. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to recovery. The main flower tasks this month are as follows: first, continue doing a good job of cold protection and insulation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job of pruning and repotting some woody flowers after blooming; third, do the preliminary preparation work for cuttings, grafting propagation, and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. In February, flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels include: pot marigold, cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, asparagus fern, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, safflower, cornflower, blanket flower, strawflower, scarlet sage, marigold, peacock chrysanthemum, dwarf petunia, California poppy, phlox, calceolaria, butterfly flower, snapdragon, globeflower, pansy, etc. By the end of February, species that can be sown outdoors in the open field include: seeds of magnolia, michelia, photinia, maple, and begonia (Rosaceae) that have already cracked and shown white after sand stratification, as well as camphor, Chinese tulip tree, privet, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, palm, goldenrain tree, soapberry, horse chestnut, lilac, etc.; seeds of wintersweet, summer sweetshrub, wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tuberose bulbs and amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cuttings. In February, woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film to retain moisture include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut one-year-old branches of varieties such as Gongfen and Lv'e), heavenly bamboo, cotton rose (southern regions), crape myrtle, daphne (southern regions), edgeworthia, pomegranate, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine orange, serissa, hibiscus, hypericum (plum), spiraea, mahonia, boxwood types, and Lespedeza, etc. Sand-stored branches of lilac and Chinese trumpet creeper can also be cuttings at this time. In early February, you can also continue cutting and storing branches of Weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, tamarisk, plane tree, grape, fig, etc., for cuttings at the end of March.

    In February, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by indoor cuttings include: Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), begonia, redback osmanthus, scarlet sage, geranium, jasmine, chloranthus, Buddha's hand, jade plant, jade leaf, Echeveria, jewel plant, epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, Pilea, Bryophyllum, kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, clerodendrum, schefflera, Guangdong evergreen, cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, dragon pine, lacebark pine, etc., then plant them in the ground and cover with film to keep warm and moist. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock and use cut grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. South of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on wintersweet branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use wintersweet seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and use cut grafting to propagate fine varieties such as 'Suxin', 'Xinkou', and 'Huti' wintersweet, using bagging and inflated moisture-retention measures for a relatively high survival rate. Use thick branches of the Chinese rose variety 'Elizabeth' as rootstock-scion, and use cut grafting or cleft grafting for superior Chinese rose scions; adopting the measures of grafting first, then cutting, then covering with plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold can greatly improve the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. In February, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chaenomeles, osmanthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, weigela, Buddhist pine, creeping juniper, snowball, Chinese snowball, winter jasmine, forsythia, hypericum, hydrangea, snow-wreath, spiraea, red maple, michelia, etc.

    5. Division. In February, herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: iris, blackberry lily, autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, variegated lilyturf, Reineckea, Rohdea, bleeding heart, hosta, purple hosta, small tufted lily, bromeliads, purple-backed Rohdea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, spider plant types, Bryophyllum, canna, arrowroot, Monstera deliciosa, Syngonium, Strelitzia, Clivia, aloe, etc. In February, woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: heavenly bamboo, cotton rose, hypericum, mahonia, hydrangea, Chaenomeles, edgeworthia, winter jasmine, forsythia, Caragana, spiraea, red-flowered spiraea, jasmine, chloranthus, tiger thorn, purple magnolia, four-season osmanthus, bamboo, and dwarf bamboo, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds of heavenly bamboo, holly types, Ardisia crenata, winter cherry, etc. can be picked, treated, and then sand-stored to promote germination; sowing can be done only after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether there is mold on the seeds. If mold occurs, clean them promptly; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with spraying water to maintain a certain moisture level in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them within a relatively short time. Once the radicle has extended too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seedling emergence rate. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film to retain moisture and protect against cold.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and temperatures are relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: dianthus types, snapdragon, hollyhock, variegated holly, daisy, pot marigold, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among them, deciduous types such as hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, begonia types, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple types, wisteria, crape myrtle, wintersweet, plum blossom (before budding and leafing out), magnolia types, soapberry, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, Chinese tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, spiraea, three-branched maple, deutzia, Chinese scholar tree, dragon-claw scholar tree, dwarf cherry, elm-leaved spirea, hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden weeping willow, cotton rose, smoke tree, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as michelia types, camphor, Elaeocarpus, sweet viburnum, Machilus, purple nanmu, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, privet, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, oriental arborvitae, black pine, etc., should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (or tunnel) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed a lot of nutrients, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so you should continue to carefully do a good job of moisture retention and cold protection. If greenhouses or plastic tunnels have heating facilities, continue heating them, and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the tunnel, continue to hang them; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, you must not take it lightly.

Overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities should continue to be ventilated and aired out. Especially by the end of February, you can extend the ventilation time during the period of the day when the temperature is highest. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them inside the south-facing window without opening the window.

For cold-sensitive flowers grown in small quantities at home, such as Aglaia, Phalaenopsis, peacock arrowroot, Syngonium, iron cross begonia, croton, and pink taffeta leaf, etc., in especially cold weather you can put plastic bags over them at night, or place them in the bathroom and turn on heating appliances such as a "bath heater" to raise the temperature, ensuring they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. Because temperatures are relatively low in February, for most potted flowers it is enough to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it can very easily cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor environments, frequently spray water and mist on the leaves of the plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color and luster and flower buds to stop growing; in severe cases leaves shrivel and wrinkle and flower buds shrink and fall off. For example, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, winter cherry, etc., may all drop buds and fruit, or even die. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should basically match the indoor or tunnel air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plants placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, pot marigold, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as firethorn, heavenly bamboo, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season mandarin, winter cherry, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves, flower buds, and fruits must also be sprayed with water. Only in this way can the leaves remain emerald green, the flower buds rapidly expand, and the fruits be brightly colored. Especially for peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles, and Malus halliana, etc. placed in tunnels for forcing, you must also spray the branches 1 to 2 times daily to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so they can give off fragrance and display auspiciousness on schedule. For purchased Cymbidium orchids cultivated in greenhouses or tunnels, because the temperature and humidity in their original greenhouse or tunnel differ greatly from those in the home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often become wrinkled and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., you must ensure the potting soil is moist and spray the plants 1 to 2 times daily; otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    Although most potted flowers need little water in February, inspection should be strengthened. Especially during several consecutive days of sustained temperature rise, supplementary watering and spraying should be done promptly.

   In February, for landscaping trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, promptly supplement watering. Especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, during the middle of sunny days you should also appropriately spray the leaves to prevent them from shriveling and falling off afterward, which would affect the resumption of growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, you can continue to bury base fertilizer for most ground-planted landscaping trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon droppings, pond sludge, septic tank cleanings, etc. You can dig ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system, apply the fertilizer, and then cover with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (plastic tunnels) at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, daphne, plum blossom, European narcissus, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus, night-blooming cereus, bromeliads, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., you can continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate to promote plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, and stump bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it can very easily cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossoms, wintersweet, forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, you can carry out severe renewal pruning. For branches that have flowered, keep only 2 to 3 buds at the base and cut off all the rest, to encourage many new shoots that year and even denser branches and buds the next year. In addition, leggy branches, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types primarily shaped by pruning, such as Chinese elm, Chinese plum yew, banyan, trident maple, Fujian tea, oak, Chinese fringe tree, water willow, Elaeagnus, Chinese holly, holly, serissa, Chinese juniper, and juniper, continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them while pruning.

    5. Repotting. Late February to early March is the favorable time for repotting most potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet emerged. Flower species that can be repotted by the end of February include: Chinese hibiscus, geranium, Aglaia, Michelia alba, jasmine, chloranthus, two-colored jasmine, redback osmanthus, sword fern, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, fuchsia, begonia, wax begonia, painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium goeringii, sago palm, Clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Christmas cactus, night-blooming cereus, sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, kalanchoe, amaryllis, asparagus fern, spider plant, Norfolk Island pine, schefflera, Rohdea, Strelitzia, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, coral plant, clerodendrum, camellia, sasanqua, Chaenomeles, hydrangea, heavenly bamboo, croton, Syngonium, arrowroot, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, bitter orange, kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold appearing on primrose leaves, at the early stage of disease, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution and spray once every 10 days, 2 to 3 consecutive sprays being sufficient.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flowers of potted cyclamen in plastic tunnels, spray 50% iprodione wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution.

For potted Belgian azaleas in plastic tunnels, stop foliar spraying with foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao", because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms ugly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects you can brush them off with a brush; when there are many insects, spray 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution to kill them. After aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, sooty mold will also disappear accordingly.

For insect bodies such as mealybugs, white shield scale, oyster-shell scale, and black-brown round scale appearing on potted flower plants in plastic tunnels, you can brush them off with a stiff brush, or use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to kill the insects, or spray 2.5% cyhalothrin emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or bury and apply 3% carbofuran or 20% fenamiphos granules in the flowerpot for control.

Continue clearing away dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the next year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and seal and ferment, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc.; after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun, and after fully drying, pack it well in plastic bags. The fully composted and dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be scattered in flowerpots as topdressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer, especially when growing flowers on a balcony, where it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used to prepare potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, you can continue to turn over garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, then dig furrows and make beds for seedling raising or transplanting flowers and trees.

    In February, plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring include creeping juniper, Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper, oriental arborvitae, true juniper, ginkgo, serissa, shore juniper, Japanese white pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, thousand-head red pine, water willow, Caragana, small golden coin plum, winter hazel, Chaenomeles, crape myrtle, banyan, Chinese elm, trident maple, etc.

Continue to rewire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If you find sunken binding constriction marks on the plant, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower planting manual (March chapter)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the area in front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively light-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, ginkgo, osmanthus, purple magnolia, michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, papaya, Chaenomeles, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Chinese snowball, snowball, persimmon, cotton rose, Chinese tulip tree, plum blossom, Chinese rose, fig, camellia, crape myrtle, peony, pomegranate, wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, heavenly bamboo, red maple, redbud, hibiscus, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and damp, then you should choose some flower and tree species suited to shady and damp conditions, such as palm, photinia, Aucuba, French holly, privet, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, camphor, dragon juniper, Elaeocarpus, Buddhist pine, Fatsia japonica, Chinese juniper, cedar, wintersweet, banana, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light, dryness, or moisture in your courtyard, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees you should note the following points: first, the lowest temperature the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid freezing damage; second, they should be suited to local soil and water conditions, to avoid failure to adapt; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a longer flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to block the light of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, so that landscaping and beautification effects can be achieved early, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, and Buddhist pine, whose height should not be lower than 2 m; eighth, leave some open space for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many species of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for ground planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, scarlet sage, cockscomb, globe amaranth, gomphrena, marigold, hollyhock, impatiens, lupine, daisy, pot marigold, corn poppy, autumn zephyr lily, dahlia, etc. Herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant species that are relatively shade-tolerant include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, Reineckea, hosta, purple hosta, lycoris, Rohdea, purple-backed Rohdea, Aspidistra, iris, acorus, saxifrage, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potting in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, you can choose to plant some flower species requiring more meticulous management, such as plum blossom, Aglaia, camellia, poinsettia, wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian ironwood, money tree, queen palm, Michelia alba, chloranthus, jasmine, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, Zamioculcas (dragon-phoenix wood), Fagraea (commonly known as African jasmine), cinnamon types (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, Cymbidium hybridum, anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia, Chinese hibiscus, Clivia, pothos, Fittonia, croton, little angel, Syngonium, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, calceolaria, fishtail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, you can grow some types requiring relatively extensive management, such as heavenly bamboo, sago palm, bamboo palm, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, amaryllis, winter jasmine, forsythia, Caragana, serissa, Chaenomeles, four-season osmanthus, cactus types, asparagus fern, rubber tree, epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, schefflera, Pilea, redback osmanthus, bougainvillea, large thorn, camellia, sasanqua, hairy azalea, banyan, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. In March, courtyard flower species that can be sown include: crape myrtle, redbud, wintersweet, summer sweetshrub, red maple, and Chinese tulip tree. The latter five all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown for seedling raising after sand stratification to promote germination include: cycad, ginkgo, bamboo pine, Buddhist pine, fan palm, purple magnolia, michelia types, osmanthus, horse chestnut, heavenly bamboo, holly types, pomegranate, Chinese snowball, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: impatiens, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, scarlet sage, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, four-season primrose, mallow types, four-o'clock, Strelitzia, Clivia, asparagus fern, etc. Some cold-sensitive species should be sown inside plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cuttings. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Chinese hibiscus, geranium, epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, purslane tree, jewel plant, Echeveria, hydrangea, heavenly bamboo, Chaenomeles, silver bud willow, hypericum, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, gardenia, forsythia, winter jasmine, creeping juniper, daphne, firethorn, etc. Cuttings of cold-sensitive flowers should be taken in tunnels or indoors.

    3. Grafting. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side-graft to propagate Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, dragon pine, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and purple magnolia seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling wintersweet as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select superior variety wintersweet scions and carry out cut grafting with bagging for moisture retention, for a relatively high survival rate; using triangular cactus as rootstock, graft and propagate Christmas cactus and various cactus ball types, preferably in plastic tunnels. In addition, camellia, cherry blossom, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be propagated by grafting in March.

    4. Layering. In March, flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, red maple, Buddhist pine, creeping juniper, upright juniper, michelia, Chaenomeles, snowball, gardenia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, etc.

    5. Division. In March, flower species that can be propagated by division include: orchid grasses, bleeding heart, Aspidistra, asparagus fern, sago palm, heavenly bamboo, mahonia, Chaenomeles, snake plant, purple triangular oxalis, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, dahlia, Strelitzia, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, Chinese tulip tree, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants bud and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; for wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, hibiscus, horse chestnut, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc., transplanting is fine even after budding, but proper pruning is still needed. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient and complete root ball must be kept; generally the diameter of the root ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not given buried fertilizer in winter, before they have sprouted, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer perimeter of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply fully composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken and pigeon droppings, etc., or a multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a good material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, wintersweet, forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning away dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and leggy flowering branches, for one-year-old branches you can cut them at 2 to 3 cm from the branch base, keeping only 2 to 3 buds. Through severe renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the next year. For camellia, sasanqua, etc., after flowering you can prune away branches that ruin the plant shape, and at the same time prune away some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, hibiscus, osmanthus, etc., which form flower buds and bloom on newly produced branches of the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve ventilation and light penetration.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases that year; for some flowers and trees prone to pests and diseases, such as Chinese rose, papaya, Chaenomeles, grape, Malus halliana, etc., promptly spray Bordeaux mixture, etc. after leafing out, which can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: dianthus, snapdragon, pot marigold, daisy, hollyhock, mallow, variegated lilyturf, autumn zephyr lily, Zephyranthes, iris, Reineckea, Ophiopogon, dwarf lilyturf, red-flowered oxalis, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have already resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as fully composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted wintersweet, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles, firethorn, Japanese white pine, heavenly bamboo, Chinese elm, trident maple, oak, Chinese fringe tree, etc. placed outdoors, repot before they bud and leaf out, replacing the soil with fresh, loose, fertile potting soil rich in organic matter, to lay a good foundation for spring and summer growth. For Michelia alba, Aglaia, chloranthus, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chinese hibiscus, Strelitzia, sago palm, poinsettia, sasanqua, camellia, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, Clivia, little angel, Syngonium, arrowroot, etc. placed indoors, repot before moving them out.

(2) Hardening off. North of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor care in March, and equal attention must be paid to both cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March you must still continue to do a good job of heat preservation and cold protection. In late March, you can open the doors and windows of the room during the day for ventilation and close them at night, so that Michelia alba, Aglaia, chloranthus, jasmine, Chinese hibiscus, poinsettia, Monstera deliciosa, little angel, rubber tree, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can gradually become hardened off and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that would affect growth and normal flowering that year. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, this month still requires continued heat preservation and cold protection, and you must not take it lightly.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Chinese hibiscus, fuchsia, clerodendrum, jasmine, chloranthus, Michelia alba, sago palm, rubber tree, fishtail palm, areca palm, croton, asparagus fern, and begonia types, combine repotting with necessary pruning, including cutting off diseased and insect-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves. For trident maple, Buddhist pine, true juniper, Huangshan pine, black pine, Chinese elm, Chinese fringe tree, oak, red nanmu, etc., mainly appreciated for their trunks, you can also wire and prune in March before budding, to further improve their shapes. For plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, forsythia, etc., severe renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, nor is it possible for everyone to live on the first floor with a good small environment for growing flowers. More often, people grow some relatively tough ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting include one category of relatively drought-tolerant plant species. Their surfaces or cuticles are thickened, or they are covered with wax, or their plant bodies are thick and fleshy and contain more sap, or their leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle shapes with very little transpiration water loss, or they are native to arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, and therefore are very drought-tolerant, such as sago palm, cactus types (bunny ears cactus, peanut cactus, Crassula, golden barrel cactus, large columnar cactus, Astrophytum, rat-tail cactus, coral tree), purslane tree, jade plant, jewel plant, Echeveria, living stones, epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, leaf cactus, kalanchoe, etc. There are also wintersweet, winter jasmine, lycoris, silver bract taro, Guangdong evergreen, spider plant, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, so they are relatively suitable for balcony planting. There is also another category of flower species that are relatively tolerant of direct sunlight and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable for balcony potted planting (especially on high-rise balconies), such as pomegranate, Chinese rose, banyan, small-leaf privet, agave, amaryllis, Chinese plum yew, oak, Chinese elm, trident maple, water willow, black pine, Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Chinese holly, holly, Vitex, Euonymus, longevity peach, sun plant, etc. In addition, jasmine, chloranthus, Japanese white pine, Aglaia, Aspidistra, Buddha's hand, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron, camellia, schefflera, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can also be used as slightly lower-level balcony potted plants, but water and shade management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as scarlet sage, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, marigold, impatiens, dwarf petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If you have collected a small amount of asparagus fern or Clivia seeds, after washing them clean, you can first sow them indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, move them to the outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, jade plant, jewel plant, Echeveria, purslane tree, coral tree, Crassula, etc. can be cut indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and at a relatively bright spot by an indoor windowsill, propagate by cuttings gardenia, fuchsia, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, Buddhist pine, Chinese rose pomegranate, Chaenomeles, heavenly bamboo, daphne, Ardisia crenata, etc., but the pot opening must be well covered with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting Japanese white pine, dragon pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, wintersweet, etc., bagging for moisture retention must be carried out; otherwise they will not easily survive.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony pot cultivation are still kept indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation and light exposure, plants that need repotting should be repotted in a timely manner. For relatively hardy flowering plants and trees placed on the balcony, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted plants, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases can cause the plants to die. Measures such as building a temporary shelter on site or moving them indoors or into a shed can be taken for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), evergreen holly (Ilex), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Sageretia thea, water willow (Adina rubella), and Chinese privet (Ligustrum quihoui), pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need styling can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, the soil can be replaced. For bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist, water once every 3 to 5 days, and mist appropriately. For Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), Forsythia viridissima, wintersweet, longevity peach, and camellia (Camellia japonica), necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape. Carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cut off branches and leaves infected with pests and diseases, and destroy them. For dried and dead cut surfaces on tree stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture or similar for antiseptic treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board (prefabricated reinforced concrete) supported above it. By using the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool, some flowers that prefer humid air can be placed on it in summer, such as orchids, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Syngonium podophyllum, Ardisia crenata, and Nandina domestica. The stored water is ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out of the room, you can first set up stepped shelves on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer. Once potted flowers are moved out and encounter excessively strong sunlight, shade measures can be quickly put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting, and stock up on various fertilizers and pesticides to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Chapter)

Weather characteristics of April: As the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid airflow from the south becomes stronger and stronger, and temperatures rise noticeably. After Qingming, although there are occasional influences of cold air moving south, it no longer poses a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River. Only in areas north of the Huai River and the Yellow River is there still the danger of snow and frost. By the time of Guyu, late frost has ended in areas south of the Jianghuai region, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; but in the Huaibei region, potted flowers cannot be moved out until after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, flower-related tasks include the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include spider flower (Cleome hassleriana), four o'clock flower (Mirabilis jalapa), cockscomb (Celosia argentea), Amaranthus tricolor, moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora), dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), morning glory (Ipomoea), Ipomoea quamoclit, Ipomoea coccinea, Nicotiana tabacum, petunia (Petunia hybrida), China aster (Callistephus chinensis), coreopsis (Coreopsis), snake's head chrysanthemum, marigold (Tagetes erecta), red-yellow chrysanthemum, zinnia (Zinnia elegans), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Primula obconica, nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), Kochia scoparia, Hibiscus coccineus, Euphorbia heterophylla, basil (Ocimum basilicum), Asparagus cochinchinensis, cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), Adenophora, and sensitive plant (Mimosa pudica). Magnoliaceae flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in April after sand stratification include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia cylindrical, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Parakmeria, Manglietia, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia rufis, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia figo, Michelia multiflora, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia martinii, Liriodendron chinense, Liriodendron tulipifera hybrids, Liriodendron tulipifera, etc.; other landscaping flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in April

include: Japanese fir (Abies firma), Sciadopitys verticillata, Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), redbud (Cercis chinensis), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), Chinese yew (Taxus chinensis), Pittosporum tobira, Chinese tallow (Sapium sebiferum), Huangshan pine, soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maples (Acer), Ormosia hosiei, wintersweet, Calycanthus chinensis, Exochorda racemosa, Chinese wolfberry (Lycium chinense), Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, and windmill palm (Trachycarpus fortunei).

Ornamental plants that can be sown immediately after harvest in April include: Gerbera jamesonii, asparagus fern, Primula, winter cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Fatsia japonica, and nipplefruit (Solanum mammosum). Among them, Fatsia japonica can have its blackened, whitened, softened fruits picked at the end of April, rubbed and washed to extract the seeds, and then sown on fertile seedling beds. Alternatively, the seeds can first be sand-stored until they crack and show white, then sown, covered with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, once about 70% of the seeds have emerged, the covering grass should be removed promptly, and a shade frame should be set up at the same time. For cultivating nipplefruit, the outer skin of the picked golden-yellow fruits can be peeled off, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days, the seeds will germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted. They can be grown in pots for fruit display or planted in the ground and cultivated as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, Sophora japonica 'Pendula', ornamental peach (Prunus persica), longevity peach, Robinia hispida, as well as cactus ball and Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera).

    3. Division

Indoor foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily (Spathiphyllum), snake plant (Sansevieria), Aspidistra elatior, ferns, Rhapis excelsa, spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), Agave, Dieffenbachia 'Silver King', Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema modestum, Calathea, aloe (Aloe), Peperomia, Monstera deliciosa, and Philodendron bipinnatifidum. Flowering plants that can be divided in April include: Clivia miniata, Fatsia japonica, Hosta, Hemerocallis, Canna, Ctenanthe, Hosta plantaginea, Platycodon grandiflorus, Chrysanthemum, Asparagus densiflorus, Achimenes, etc. Shrubs and small trees that can be divided in April include: Dahlia, Iris, Hemerocallis, Hosta, Phlox paniculata, Physostegia, Platycodon, Gypsophila, and Chrysanthemum. In addition, Arundo donax and Acorus calamus can also be divided at this time.

    4. Cuttage

For most flowering trees and shrubs that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can be propagated by cuttings in April. The main types include: boxwood (Buxus), Mahonia, Nandina domestica, cypress (Cupressus), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), pomegranate (Punica granatum), crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn (Pyracantha), Spiraea, Liriodendron chinense, Spiraea thunbergii, Edgeworthia chrysantha, and Chaenomeles speciosa.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that were not repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if not too much old soil is removed and the root system is not excessively reduced during repotting, they can still be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out that for deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, if the new shoots are too long, especially for Japanese apricot, they must never be repotted after the leaves have unfolded.

    2. April is the best period for transplanting outdoor flowering trees and shrubs. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a soil ball in April. For evergreen flowering trees and shrubs such as camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), Michelia, and Michelia alba, a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce water transpiration from the crown. For deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, it is best to transplant before the leaves unfold, such as Magnolia denudata, horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), linden (Tilia), crabapple (Malus), wintersweet, purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), ornamental peach, Japanese apricot, and apricot. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowering trees and shrubs should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the main trunk of the transplanted plant. In this way, under the condition that the soil ball is not damaged, there will be no worries after transplanting.

III. Bonsai Styling

April is one of the best periods for bonsai styling. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice styling are those with strong adaptability whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as Buddhist pine, Sabina chinensis, Serissa japonica, water willow, Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku', Euonymus pendulus, crape myrtle, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Chamaecyparis pisifera, Ficus microcarpa, Chinese boxwood (Buxus sinica), Chinese elm, winter jasmine, Edgeworthia chrysantha, ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba), black pine, and Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis). Other types suitable for styling in April include wild hawthorn (Crataegus), five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, Syzygium buxifolium, Fraxinus paxiana, trident maple, Xylosma racemosum, Galax urceolata, Diospyros armata, Malus halliana, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Chinese quince (Chaenomeles sinensis), Elaeagnus pungens, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), golden larch, and Damnacanthus indicus.

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, metal wire or non-metal wire should be used in a timely manner to continuously wire, guide, and correct them so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid to the following three aspects this month: First, remove buds in a timely manner. When the winter buds sprout and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots. Second, remove female and male cones. When needle fascicle buds and female and male cones can be distinguished on new shoots, promptly remove all female cones borne at the tips of new shoots and male cones located at the base of new shoots, reducing nutrient consumption during reproductive growth. Third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, and replacing watering with misting, to ensure that the newly produced needles are short and clustered and that the branch pads remain flat and good.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia (Camellia japonica), sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), wintersweet, azalea (Rhododendron), winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Daphne odora, kumquat (Fortunella), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), winter cherry, Christmas cactus, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium sinense, and Phaius tankervilleae, because flowering or fruiting consumes a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after warm spring, apply a topdressing mainly of nitrogen, such as fully fermented dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote growth. For potted flower types about to bloom such as Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), redbud, pomegranate, Cymbidium ensifolium, hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), and Michelia alba, topdressing should also be given, and the type can be monopotassium phosphate, with concentration controlled at about 0.2%. For ground-planted Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, and crabapple after flowering, topdressing should also be applied in a timely manner to meet the needs of vegetative growth.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree (Pachira aquatica) can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings of money tree that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose part of their moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 into a braid. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, and then choose a suitable pot for planting. Money tree has extremely strong vitality. Even if there is not enough time to process it into a braid or plant it, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjust Plant Shape and Prevent Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and faded stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower types prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Fruiting Potted Plants

For potted fruiting flowering plants that bloom in April, such as Chinese quince, ginkgo, firethorn, Aucuba japonica, and Malus halliana, especially dioecious or cross-pollinated types, during the flowering period attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally, and do not miss the opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to misting and spraying management. Apart from those with intermittent misting equipment, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times a day, always keeping the cutting medium moist, to create the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Chapter)

Climate characteristics of May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north in China. After each rainfall, temperatures rise noticeably. There is often continuous spring rain. By the time the Xiaoman spring rain ends, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for growing and caring for flowers, and it plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. In May, flower care from south to north mainly includes the following tasks:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown immediately after harvest in May mainly include: Primula obconica, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, and loquat (Eriobotrya japonica). When sowing and raising seedlings in May, pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing bed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry and dehydrated. Second, cover the sowing bed with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes between wet and dry that cause seeds to "regress." Third, after emergence, remove the covering grass in several stages and set up shade in a timely manner to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), mature blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, rinsed clean, and stored in moist clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and expose the tip of the radicle can they be sown in the ground. During storage, care should be taken to prevent rodents from stealing them, and the sand should be kept moist.

For loquat sowing, the soil covering should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttage

Flower types suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, French marigold (Tagetes patula), dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides), begonias (Begonia), sulfur cosmos, Chinese rose, azalea, dahlia, Fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), geranium (Pelargonium), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), hibiscus, Erythrina, nasturtium, Jasminum grandiflorum, jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Chloranthus spicatus, Acalypha wilkesiana, Deutzia, Hydrangea macrophylla, Kerria japonica, pomegranate, rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), Buddleja, trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), Epiphyllum, Epipremnum pinnatum, Epiphyllum 'Ackermannii', jade plant (Crassula ovata), Haworthia, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia liliiflora, Chaenomeles speciosa, Cyperus alternifolius, Lantana camara, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Aglaonema modestum, Cordyline fruticosa, Epipremnum aureum, Schefflera arboricola, oleander (Nerium oleander), firethorn, Mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa) with aerial roots.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia liliiflora seedlings or cuttings to graft and propagate Michelia alba and Michelia figo; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple (Acer palmatum) seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and Sessilifolium maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old Rhododendron mucronulatum cuttings to cleft graft and propagate Belgian azalea; use wild rose (Rosa multiflora) as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate fine varieties of Chinese rose; use Artemisia annua as rootstock for grafting to propagate fine varieties of chrysanthemum; use 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock for softwood grafting of fine wintersweet varieties, or potted rootstocks can also be used for grafting. In addition, cactus and triangular stem (Hylocereus undatus) can be used as rootstocks for grafting and propagating Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by air layering in May include: Michelia alba, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Aglaia odorata, Belgian azalea, camellia, croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Michelia figo, and red maple. Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by ground layering include: Japanese apricot, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, Buddhist pine, osmanthus, and trumpet creeper.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, most types must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful care, they can bloom on schedule by late September and early October, thereby creating a joyful, lively, and colorful holiday atmosphere. The main types include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, China aster, Kochia scoparia, marigold, dragon's mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, and begonia.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and the beginning of May, when Magnolia denudata has finished flowering and is just about to sprout and unfold leaves, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees and shrubs that sprout relatively late and are easy to transplant can also be transplanted with a soil ball in early May for establishment, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, redbud, pomegranate, and silk tree.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. In addition to combining root watering with foliar misting, attention must also be paid to the quality of water used for irrigation and spraying. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a pool or small jar, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flowers suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, Japanese apricot, azalea, Rhododendron simsii, gardenia, Daphne odora, Clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, and red-flowered camellia. Foliage types include: sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, ferns, Buddhist pine, croton, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Philodendron 'Imperial Red', Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, bromeliads, Brazil wood (Dracaena fragrans), money tree, and Schefflera arboricola. Fruiting types include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, Buddha's hand (Citrus medica), lemon, Nandina domestica, winter cherry, and Ardisia crenata.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For Michelia alba that has just been moved outdoors, special attention should be paid when cutting back because its branch pith is loose, and the cut surface easily loses water and dries downward. For this reason, consider making the cut 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and never too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose, prune after flowering with a moderate downward reduction of 10 to 20 cm, so that bud eyes in the middle of the branch can differentiate flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. For bud removal on potted wintersweet plants, attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud site; otherwise, the wound will dry and shrink and affect the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose potted that year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade frame or under tree shade, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Calathea, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Imperial Red', Dieffenbachia, Livistona chinensis, Syngonium podophyllum, orchids, azalea, Strelitzia reginae, camellia, and sasanqua. For light-loving flowering trees and shrubs, full light must be given, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, and Michelia alba. Bonsai plants such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, water willow, Xylosma racemosum, Serissa japonica, black pine, and Pinus armandii require full light. Buddhist pine, Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Sabina chinensis, and five-needle pine can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, azalea, sasanqua, Japanese apricot, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Michelia alba, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, Daphne odora, Clivia, orchids, and crabapple, respectively remove faded flowers and withered stems after flowering, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen and supplemented by phosphorus once every half month. While restoring vegetative growth, this lays a foundation for them to differentiate flower buds again. For foliage-oriented types such as rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Imperial Red', Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aspidistra elatior, and ferns, apply fully fermented dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For foliage plants with colorful spots or patterns, such as Sansevieria trifasciata 'Laurentii', Vriesea, Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', croton, Caladium bicolor, Syngonium podophyllum 'White Butterfly', and Dieffenbachia, a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as foliar topdressing, which can make their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose, wild rose, and rose, attention should be paid to preventing and controlling powdery mildew and brown spot. For leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticides to kill them. For common leaf-eating pests on bitter orange, kumquat, Jindou, Buddha's hand, lemon, and rue, namely the larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly, spray pesticides early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Ornamental bonsai plant types that can still be styled in May include: Japanese apricot, small-leaf gardenia, Gardenia jasminoides, Buddhist pine, Serissa japonica, Sabina chinensis, water willow, Galax urceolata, and ginkgo. It is worth noting that when styling, one must be careful and cautious, and try not to damage the bark and structure of the branches and trunk; otherwise, it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Jianghuai basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain began on June 12 and ended on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in the region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with long periods of continuous rain. For some flowers that are dormant or semi-dormant in summer and for most bonsai, care should be especially careful to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, which would disrupt styling or affect the normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. In June, flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in June include: Primula, lotus seeds, cycad (Cycas revoluta), loquat, and wintersweet. For wintersweet, when the urn-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked. Promptly peel open the fruit capsule and remove the seeds. First soak them in cold water for 24 to 36 hours. After the seeds have absorbed enough water and swollen, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white. At this time, open furrows and sow. The soil covering thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm. Cover with rice straw to retain moisture. After most of the cotyledons of the seeds have emerged, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages and set up shade in a timely manner.

    2. Cuttage

In summer, temperatures are high and humidity is high, and the cambium in the branches of flowering trees and shrubs is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation. There are two main categories of flowering trees and shrubs suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category consists of types that are not easy to root from hardwood cuttings or root slowly, such as osmanthus, camellia, Michelia figo, Chinese holly, evergreen holly, lilac (Syringa), Magnolia liliiflora, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball (Viburnum), Viburnum macrocephalum, coral tree (Viburnum odoratissimum), Erythrina, Belgian azalea, Buddha belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides), pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), and bald cypress (Taxodium distichum). The other category consists of types that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, Chinese rose, firethorn, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Jasminum officinale, Serissa japonica, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Caragana, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Lonicera japonica, Lantana camara, Kerria japonica, bougainvillea, Buddha's hand, lemon, Buddhist pine, Nandina domestica, trumpet creeper, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), hibiscus, Cordyline fruticosa, Hypericum, Hypericum kouytchense, golden willow, dragon-claw willow, Ficus microcarpa, Dracaena fragrans, Ardisia crenata, Edgeworthia chrysantha, croton, Deutzia, Philadelphus, crape myrtle, Weigela florida, Weigela, Hydrangea macrophylla, Aucuba, Schefflera, Mahonia, Fatsia japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hydrangea macrophylla, and poinsettia. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as Ipomoea cairica, Parthenocissus, nasturtium, Torenia, Salvia, Heliotropium arborescens, Cyperus alternifolius, geranium, coleus, begonias, pansy (Viola tricolor), globe amaranth, zinnia, French marigold, marigold, and sulfur cosmos.

Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the young branches of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified. The medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite. The cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip. The lower cut end is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthalene acetic acid solution, briefly aired, and then inserted into the seedling bed. The insertion depth of the cuttings is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with plant and row spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the bed, then cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, set up double-layer shade for light blocking, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month, the cuttings will root in large numbers.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft fine varieties of wintersweet; use potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock to graft Michelia alba, Michelia figo, etc. Bud grafting: use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to propagate fine Chinese rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, and plum as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, Prunus japonica, Japanese apricot, and Prunus triloba; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and red maple. Cleft grafting: use oil tea (Camellia oleifera), red-flowered oil tea, or single-petaled seedling camellia as rootstock for cleft grafting of camellia and sasanqua; use Rhododendron mucronulatum cultivars "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting of Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in June include: azalea, honeysuckle, Hydrangea macrophylla, snowball flower, Viburnum macrocephalum, Weigela florida, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine, and Michelia alba.

    5. Division

    Flower types that can be propagated by division in June include: Nephrolepis, calla lily (Zantedeschia, after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo, Cyperus alternifolius, Tradescantia spathacea, bromeliads, Haworthia, Aspidistra elatior, spider plant, Acorus, and Liriope spicata 'Variegata'.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting for Establishment

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: Dianthus, cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), Silene pendula, Silene armeria, hollyhock (Alcea rosea), mallow (Malva), Primula, Calceolaria, and Amaryllis (sow immediately after harvest).

    Flowering tree and shrub seeds that can be collected in June: after wintersweet seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing without affecting the germination rate. Peach and apricot should be sown immediately after harvest, or their seeds can be sand-stored until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground. Osmanthus seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the embryo, and then sown in a selected nursery plot when they germinate.

    2. Transplanting for Establishment and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting for establishment or potting, including: evening primrose (Oenothera), spider flower, garden balsam, Impatiens hawkeri, Primula, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, Nicotiana tabacum, petunia, marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's mouth flower, Kochia scoparia, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, and Alternanthera.

In summer, some large flowering trees and shrubs are no longer transplanted, so as not to affect their survival rate and growth after transplanting. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', and boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is not impossible, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, just do not let the tree know." But after transplanting, misting and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    In June, watering potted flowers should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time. It is best at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m.; under normal circumstances, watering once a day is sufficient. Second, watering temperature. The irrigation water should be kept basically consistent with the potting soil temperature. If the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the roots and leaves of potted flowers and thereby affect their growth. Third, combine watering and misting. During weather with no rain for several days, in addition to watering the pots, also mist the leaf surfaces and the surroundings of the potted flowers to increase local humidity. If there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and mist according to the wetness of the potting soil.

Flower types that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones include: red wood sorrel (Oxalis rubra), geranium, Fuchsia, Clivia, calla lily, and begonias. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced and the potting soil kept moist only. Deeply dormant types include: cyclamen (Cyclamen), Lycoris, Ranunculus, and Dutch peony. Under high temperatures, their aboveground stems and leaves wither and underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they summer in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. Watering must be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the potting soil should be kept from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively inspect the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the potting soil dries, loosen the soil to avoid root rot. Alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, stand the potted flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing types such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, Nephrolepis, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, sago palm, Aspidistra elatior, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Imperial Red', Philodendron 'Imperial Queen', rubber tree, Anthurium, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Rhapis excelsa, Norfolk Island pine, Dracaena fragrans, Buddhist pine, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Japanese apricot, camellia, sasanqua, Daphne odora, azalea, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Lantana camara, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, and firethorn, apply fully fermented dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For types currently in bloom, appropriate phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the needs of growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower types in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for succulent flower types such as jade plant, Christmas cactus, Haworthia, Senecio, Sedum morganianum, Lampranthus, Stapelia, and sedums, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization should be stopped to avoid rotting.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For vigorously growing types such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku', Sabina chinensis, water willow, Sabina chinensis, Chinese holly, evergreen holly, trident maple, Fontanesia, tamarisk (Tamarix), and firethorn, branches affecting the styling should be pruned or cut back early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and good in appearance, and can promote more short shoots and more new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal. For flowers such as Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, and Chinese rose, faded flowers and withered stems should be removed promptly, and branches that have flowered should be appropriately cut back to promote the lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again. For flowering trees and shrubs such as Michelia alba, bitter orange, azalea, camellia, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, and crabapple, in order to promote a good plant shape, more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or following year, the excessively vigorous branches should be pinched and buds removed to inhibit the growth of terminal and lateral shoots and promote the sprouting of lateral buds.

    4. Shading

    In June, for flowering trees and shrubs that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage from scorching sunlight, such as Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chloranthus spicatus, Strelitzia reginae, orchids, Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium podophyllum, Dieffenbachia, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Epipremnum aureum, Peperomia, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Imperial Red', Philodendron 'Imperial Queen', Livistona chinensis, Daphne odora, Aspidistra elatior, and spider plant. Light-loving flower types must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria (Wisteria), firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, Serissa japonica, cycad, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Sageretia thea, Chinese holly, evergreen holly, water willow, Xylosma racemosum, black pine, Pinus armandii, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, Mahonia, and grape. Buddhist pine, Damnacanthus indicus, Nandina domestica, Buddha belly bamboo, Bambusa multiplex, five-needle pine, and Podocarpus nagi can be appropriately shaded.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, Sabina chinensis, Chinese elm, Chinese quince, firethorn, Buddhist pine, and crabapple are susceptible to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles. Timely use poison sticks to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose, wild rose, and rose are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot during the plum rain season. Spray Bordeaux mixture early for prevention and control.

(3) Michelia alba, Japanese apricot, and wintersweet are susceptible to aphid damage. Select suitable pesticides early and spray to kill them.

(4) Orchid leaves are easily infected with anthracnose. Spray carbendazim and other fungicides early for prevention and control.

(5) Tender leaves of bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, and Buddha's hand are easily eaten by larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly. Spray contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Plant types that can be styled in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they must be plants potted in early spring for hardening or planted in the ground. They are: Buddhist pine, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus pungens, Huashan pine, Sabina chinensis, Chinese juniper, Chinese holly, evergreen holly, Chinese wolfberry, five-needle pine, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Japanese apricot, ornamental peach, trident maple, Serissa japonica, black pine, Chinese boxwood, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water willow, Juniperus chinensis 'Shimpaku', ginkgo, Fontanesia, and firethorn. Styling in June must be careful, with gentle wiring and slow binding. Never rush and never use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5 is Mangzhong; June 21 is Xiazhi.

Flower Planting Manual (July Chapter)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain weather ends in the Jianghuai region. July 16 is the start of the dog days, and August 15 is the end of the dog days. Most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and in areas south of the Jianghuai region it is 28°C. Only in northern Northeast China and on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is the average July temperature below 20°C. Flower care management in July mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria (Pericallis hybrida), Primula obconica, ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), and bellflower (Campanula). When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light.
    In July, mature fruits of Japanese apricot, wild peach, mountain peach, and Prunus triloba can also be picked. After washing off the flesh, open furrows and sow immediately, or store the washed stone fruits in moist sand until they crack and then sow. Wintersweet seeds can be sown immediately after harvest, or the seeds removed from the fruit capsule can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing without affecting the germination rate.
    2. Cuttage
    Herbaceous flower types suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Scutellaria indica, begonias, coleus, Pilea cadierei, scarlet sage, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Aster novi-belgii, Lythrum, Cyperus alternifolius, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, coral flower, Peperomia, Epipremnum pinnatum, Polygonum chinense, Kalanchoe, and Epipremnum aureum.
    Woody flower types suitable for cutting propagation in July include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nandina domestica, poinsettia, Euphorbia milii, Hypericum, Hypericum kouytchense, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Weigela, Hydrangea macrophylla, Spiraea thunbergii, Daphne odora, gardenia, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Magnolia sieboldii, bougainvillea, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera arboricola, Mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, firethorn, Cordyline fruticosa, hibiscus, Serissa japonica, Michelia figo, coral tree, rubber tree, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum dilatatum, boxwood, fig, Magnolia liliiflora, osmanthus, azalea, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, and golden willow. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July, some flowering plants can also be propagated by water cuttings. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, hibiscus, etc. To use the water cutting method to propagate flowering plants, first, prepare a thick 1 cm to 2 cm foam plastic board, perforate it, and use it as a fixing material for the cuttings; second, keep the water used for cuttings clean, and add a few pieces of charcoal to prevent decay.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedlings of Prunus davidiana and Prunus persica can be used as rootstocks for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, Shouxing peach, red-leaf peach, Japanese apricot, Prunus triloba, red-leaf plum, beauty plum, etc.; use cuttings of wild rose, Rosa multiflora, and 'Ten Sisters' as rootstocks for bud grafting to propagate variety roses, cut-flower roses, and rugosa roses, etc.; use potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstocks for * grafting to propagate Michelia alba, Michelia figo, etc.; use 2-year-old potted seedling plants of wintersweet as rootstocks for * grafting to propagate superior varieties of wintersweet; 2-year-old wintersweet seedling plants can also be used as rootstocks, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging to retain moisture, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and after 7 to 10 days it can be determined whether they have survived; use 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among the Rhododendron mucronatum as rootstocks, and use cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; use cherry seedling plants as rootstocks for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of flowering cherry; use current-year seedling plants grown from seeds of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, or Malus halliana and Malus spectabilis as rootstocks, and carry out "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of crabapple; use Acer palmatum seedling plants as rootstocks, and use bagged grafting to propagate red maple, lace-leaf maple, and other nursery stock.
    4. Layering
    Flowering plants that can be propagated by layering in July include: Aglaia odorata (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, Hydrangea macrophylla, Chinese trumpet creeper, Viburnum macrocephalum, oleander, Weigela florida, Caragana sinica, osmanthus, gardenia, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, chloranthus, climbing rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant species that can be divided in July include: Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Acorus species, Cyperus alternifolius, Aspidistra elatior, Tradescantia spathacea, Bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, Liriope species, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, sword fern, iris, Tradescantia zebrina, etc. 2. Seed collection and transplanting and planting out
    1. Seed collection
    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in July include: hollyhock, Malva, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, Coreopsis tinctoria, sweet pea, daisy, larkspur, pansy, Lampranthus, etc.
    Flowering plant seeds that can be collected in July include: wintersweet, plum, Prunus persica, Prunus davidiana, Prunus triloba, etc.
    2. Transplanting and planting out and potting
    July is the main period for potting herbaceous flowers for display during National Day. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted at this time can be seedlings from sowing or cuttings. After 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom exactly during National Day for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, small dahlia, Impatiens hawkeri, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, Kochia scoparia, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, etc.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, it is also feasible to transplant some flowering shrubs with soil balls, such as Mahonia, Hypericum, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Aucuba japonica, Sabina chinensis 'Globosa', etc. However, targeted pruning must be carried out, shade frames must be built in time, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased. After they have basically survived, shift to normal management. Do not be careless.
3. Flower management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter semi-dormancy under high temperatures, such as Oxalis articulata, Pelargonium species, fuchsia, Clivia, calla lily, Begonia species, Sedum, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Cactaceae, Haworthia cooperi, Stapelia grandiflora, Senecio rowleyanus, Senecio radicans, Daphne odora, Schlumbergera, Portulacaria afra, Aloe, etc., because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it is easy to cause root rot and will also seriously affect their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter deep dormancy under high temperatures, such as Cyclamen, Lycoris species, Ranunculus asiaticus, Dicentra spectabilis, etc., in July their aboveground stems and leaves wither and their underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they spend the summer dormant in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For deeply dormant flowers, stop watering, move them to a cool place, and just keep the potting soil from becoming too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as cycad, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, chloranthus, Araucaria heterophylla, Maranta species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Calathea roseopicta, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Aucuba japonica, Pyracantha, bitter orange, lemon, Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but leaf surface spraying should also be appropriately given, combining spraying and watering. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be given, and carelessness must be avoided. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand upright, then water the roots. Do not pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or cause the rot of the plants' nutrient fibrous roots, and even cause plant death.
For potted plum bonsai, because July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest, and flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axils of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon. It is best to water before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out promptly, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, fertilization management should be strengthened for four major categories of ornamental plants. The first is types with especially long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Magnolia denudata, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, etc.; the second is types that bloom abundantly in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, Hibiscus mutabilis, etc.; the third is types for viewing flowers and fruits in winter, such as bitter orange, Nandina domestica, wintersweet, rhododendron, etc.; the fourth is foliage plants, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, etc. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to the necessary nitrogen fertilizer, appropriate amounts of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for their budding, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, thin liquid fertilizer applied by watering is preferable.
    Herbaceous flowers that should receive strengthened fertilization in July include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, crape myrtle, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold, Mirabilis jalapa, dragon's mouth flower, etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, Michelia figo, osmanthus, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, crabapple species, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, rhododendron, chloranthus, wintersweet, hibiscus, Hibiscus mutabilis, etc. There are many kinds of foliage plants, such as Bromeliads, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, Araucaria heterophylla, Syngonium, Maranta, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, cycad, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline fruticosa, etc.
   In July, for ornamental plants in dormant or semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for succulent ornamental plants, such as Sedum species, Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus, Stapelia, etc., fertilization must be stopped even more to prevent plant rot.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and bud-pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the young shoot tip bud with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, Buxus sinica, wintersweet, Pyracantha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Tamarix chinensis, Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia viridissima, Celtis sinensis, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Fraxinus chinensis, Acer buergerianum, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, Murraya paniculata, etc. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoots to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and form beautiful crown layers or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are inconvenient to pinch with fingers, such as Juniperus rigida, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Xylosma racemosum, Ilex cornuta, Sabina chinensis, etc.
For those potted flower species that continue flowering for a long time, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, chloranthus, etc., their faded flowers and withered stems should be removed promptly, and the branches that have already flowered should be shortened as necessary, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and reblooming. For rhododendron, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, plum, etc., overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperature of the year. Special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to avoid damage to the plants from blazing sun exposure. Such as ferns, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Monstera deliciosa, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, chloranthus, Strelitzia reginae, orchids, Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Calathea roseopicta, Epipremnum aureum, Peperomia species, Aspidistra elatior, Tradescantia zebrina, Dracaena fragrans, Epipremnum pinnatum, Bromeliads, Maranta species, Reineckea carnea, etc.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, Pyracantha, jasmine, Serissa japonica, cycad, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, peach, plum, wintersweet, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, black pine, Adina rubella, Xylosma racemosum, Pinus thunbergii, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, etc. For Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, Michelia figo, Damnacanthus indicus, Asparagus setaceus, Bambusa multiplex, Pinus parviflora, etc., it is necessary to give appropriate shading.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because this month's temperature is too high and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and is also beneficial for protecting the plants' nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, slightly tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia, cycad, Araucaria heterophylla, Hibiscus mutabilis, Livistona chinensis, Rhapis excelsa, Phoenix canariensis, Bromeliads, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera arboricola, Aspidistra elatior, Aucuba japonica, etc., and it is not advisable to choose sword fern, Coleus, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, etc. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping away from air-conditioner outlets to prevent wind from directly blowing on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf margins to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy days are more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the disease period spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800 times solution or folpet 500 times solution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or main trunks of plum, peach, crabapple species, red-leaf plum, flowering cherry, Prunus triloba, etc., it is mostly caused by larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual digging and killing, injection of systemic pesticides, insertion of poison sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the tree trunks. Note that when injecting pesticides, do not use dimethoate, omethoate, etc., to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the box tree pyralid that damages Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Buxus harlandii, and Buxus sempervirens. When this insect occurs severely, it can chew all the leaves bare. Once discovered, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If long-term use of a certain pesticide has caused resistance, switch to a new type of pesticide.
(4) In July, in some areas, larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly will continue to damage the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, Glycine max, finger citron, lemon, Citrus wilsonii, and rue. Promptly spray stomach-poison pesticides to kill them.
(5) The white wax insect that damages Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Fraxinus chinensis, and Fraxinus chinensis has its emergence period from late July to late August. The timing should be chosen accurately to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) Ceroplastes japonicus is a major pest damaging Euonymus japonicus, Platanus orientalis, Pittosporum tobira, Camellia japonica, red-leaf plum, Cedrus deodara, etc. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs. Promptly spray pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide for control.
4. Bonsai shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, air humidity is low, and plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches are susceptible to infection by pathogens after injury and are not easy to heal and recover. Most tree stump species are no longer suitable for further wiring and shaping. Those that can still be shaped are some plant species with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they must be plants that were potted and acclimated in spring or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Thujopsis dolabrata, Calocedrus macrolepis, Serissa japonica, black pine, Buxus sinica, Adina rubella, etc.
    In July, plant shaping must be careful and meticulous, with gentle and slow wiring, applying force gradually. Do not operate hastily or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to break the plant's branches and trunk and endanger its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Manual Autumn

Flower Planting Manual (August)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
    August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the high-temperature dry-hot period second only to July in the year. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among woody flowers, the main ones are: Araucaria heterophylla, black pine, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Pseudolarix amabilis, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Pinus armandii, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, cycad, Phoenix canariensis, Fagraea ceilANICA, Cinnamomum kotoense, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus benjamina, Chinese hibiscus, Lantana camara, Erythrina variegata (coral tree), Dracaena fragrans, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera octophylla, Plumeria rubra, Osmanthus fragrans, oleander, Washingtonia, Trachycarpus fortunei, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Chinese rose, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Impatiens, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, Begonia maculata, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, phlox, ornamental pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, Calendula officinalis, Lycoris radiata, Catharanthus roseus, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Mirabilis jalapa, crape myrtle, etc. In addition, there are Aspidistra elatior, Aglaonema modestum, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Aglaonema commutatum, etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, woody flowers that can be sown include: peony, Prunus triloba, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Calycanthus chinensis, Calycanthus floridus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. They can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Phoenix canariensis can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. Pomegranate grown for fruit is harvested after the fruit ripens and cracks, the fleshy layer outside the seeds is rubbed off, and the seeds are sand-stored until germination and then sown. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, petunia, snapdragon, Echinacea, Oxalis species, Achillea millefolium, nasturtium, pyrethrum, etc. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: Calceolaria, Cyclamen, Senecio cruentus, Begonia semperflorens, Primula obconica, Coleus, Calendula officinalis, etc.
2. Cuttings. Use alkaline-leached rice chaff ash and wet fine sand mixed at a ratio of 2:1 as the mixed substrate for moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings, and the following flower species can be propagated: Pyracantha, Mahonia species, wintersweet, Michelia figo, Bougainvillea, Erythrina variegata, Aglaia odorata, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, chloranthus, rubber tree, Galium odoratum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Schefflera species, Cordyline fruticosa, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia liliiflora, etc. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc. as the substrate, cuttings can be taken of Buxus species, pomegranate, hibiscus, French holly, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Nandina domestica, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, Serissa japonica, Spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, gardenia, etc. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower plants can be grafted: in northern regions, use Chionanthus retusus as the rootstock and * graft osmanthus; use Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata as rootstocks and bud graft to propagate Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as the rootstock and * graft Michelia alba; use current-year seedling plants of Prunus persica as the rootstock and bud graft plum, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, etc.; use cherry seedling plants as the rootstock and bud graft Japanese flowering cherry; use wild rose, Rosa multiflora, etc. as rootstocks and bud graft superior variety roses; use seedling plants of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, Malus hupehensis, etc. as rootstocks and bud graft Malus spectabilis and Malus halliana; use Acer palmatum as the rootstock and top-graft red maple and lace-leaf maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as the rootstock and cleft graft Ficus benjamina 'Variegata'; use single-petal camellia as the rootstock and cleft graft superior variety Camellia japonica; use seedling wintersweet as the rootstock and cleft graft or * graft superior variety wintersweet flowers. In addition, cleft grafting can be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, Rosa banksiae, climbing rose, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, oleander, gardenia, Caragana sinica, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis, Osmanthus species, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, chloranthus, Michelia figo, Chinese hibiscus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), etc.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Bromeliads, Polygonatum odoratum, Aspidistra elatior, Cyperus alternifolius, Adina pilulifera, red (green) gem, iris, Belamcanda chinensis, Oxalis triangularis, Aglaonema modestum, Aster novi-belgii, Acorus gramineus, sword fern, Aglaonema commutatum, Maranta species, Syngonium, Haworthia, etc. In addition, Lycoris radiata, calla lily, freesia, etc. can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, when some flowering shrubs are transplanted with large soil balls and supplemented with intense pruning, management such as shading, watering, and spraying should be strengthened after transplanting, and a relatively high survival rate can be obtained, such as Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Buxus sinica 'Aureovariegata', Hypericum, Mahonia, Fatsia japonica, Chinese rose, rhododendron, gardenia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Michelia figo, Sabina chinensis 'Globosa', Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Buxus sinica 'Globosa', pomegranate, hibiscus, Aucuba japonica, French holly, etc. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, etc., and they can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, road hedges in the courtyard such as Buxus, Ligustrum quihoui, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', French holly, and Photinia davidsoniae should continue to be pruned. For ground-planted ball-shaped plants, such as Photinia, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Myrica rubra, Pyracantha, Pittosporum tobira, Ilex cornuta, holly, etc., pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowering plants that continue flowering for a long time, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, Lantana camara, etc., faded flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be shortened appropriately. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, French marigold, marigold, etc., tip pruning and pinching should be given.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are wrapped with straw rope, the straw rope should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more and water cautiously to ensure no water accumulates at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Buxus sinica 'Aureovariegata', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Prunus x cistena, Codiaeum variegatum, Acalypha wilkesiana, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', etc., in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, apply quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For species that continue flowering, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans, flowering pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, Bougainvillea, dahlia, Lantana camara, etc., as well as species that are about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, Hibiscus mutabilis, Anemone hupehensis, etc., promptly apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum, wintersweet, etc. that are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed via leaf surface topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on plants such as Cedrus deodara, Ligustrum lucidum, Pittosporum tobira, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, Camellia japonica, etc., promptly spray 40% Supracide 1500 times solution for control. For chrysanthemum tiger and aphids occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal 1000 times solution to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and tobacco cutworm that chew rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate 1000 times solution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species from which seeds can be collected include: peony, Prunus triloba, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Calycanthus chinensis, etc. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: peony, Portulaca grandiflora, Mirabilis jalapa, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer, etc.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, water between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping water temperature basically consistent with soil temperature and air temperature. For those ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, add 0.1% ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as Calceolaria, Sinningia speciosa, Begonia masoniana, Begonia rex, etc., water droplets falling on the leaf surface do not evaporate easily and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the flower bud clusters in the leaf rosette of Gerbera jamesonii (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of Clivia also cannot be drenched with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette will cause heart rot; for Bromeliads, water must be applied sparingly and misted more, and water should be poured into the leaf cups to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, control watering and spraying, just maintaining the potting soil slightly moist. By spraying the small environment around the flower pots, create a relatively cool and moist environment for them.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, red (green) gem, Araucaria heterophylla, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Phoenix roebelenii, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota mitis, Livistona chinensis, Epipremnum aureum, Dracaena fragrans, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, sword fern, Schefflera, Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), Cinnamomum kotoense (safe tree), Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix tree), Syngonium, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', poinsettia, Calathea roseopicta, Schefflera arboricola, Aucuba japonica, Chamaedorea elegans, Codiaeum variegatum, Fatsia japonica, etc., low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, chloranthus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Osmanthus fragrans, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Bougainvillea, Lantana camara, etc., as well as fruit-viewing bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, Diospyros cathayensis, fruit pomegranate, Nandina domestica, papaya, etc., in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, appropriate amounts of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, China aster, chrysanthemum, miniature sunflower, etc., apply thin liquid fertilizer once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower species in flower bud differentiation, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, plum, osmanthus, rhododendron, etc., apply low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to the leaf surface. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, do not let the fertilizer liquid drip onto the leaves, so as to avoid leaf rot. To be safe, promptly spray the leaf surface once after fertilizing to wash off fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormant and semi-dormant states, such as Clivia, Begonia semperflorens, calla lily, Cyclamen, Daphne odora, Aloe, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Portulacaria afra, Schlumbergera, Sedum species, Oxalis triangularis, Cactaceae, cactus balls, etc., stop all forms of topdressing, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the heat is still strong, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers is still very important. For those ornamental plant species that prefer cool conditions, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', rubber tree, Dypsis lutescens, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, Maranta species, red (green) gem, Rhapis excelsa, Epipremnum aureum, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', orchids, Calathea roseopicta, Peperomia, Bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, Pilea peperomioides, ferns, Bambusa ventricosa, Bambusa multiplex, spider plant, Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia, Gynura aurantiaca, Ludisia discolor, Aglaonema commutatum, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Begonia species, Dracaena sanderiana, Aspidistra elatior, Asparagus setaceus, Hosta ventricosa, etc., continue to provide shade by building a shed. Pull on the shade net at 9 a.m. and remove it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune those tree stump bonsai that grow vigorously, tolerate pruning, and sprout easily, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, etc. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, etc., shorten prune after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and bud thinning?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterfly, rose sawfly, and peach red-necked longhorn beetle. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leafminers, stem borers, etc.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry-hot air. Only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or that have been placed on the balcony for a long time can adapt. Such as black pine, Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis stump, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis, Carmona retusa, Chinese rose, Bougainvillea, Agave, Lantana camara, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. In August, some flowers on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, Cycas revoluta, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, Maranta, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, Pachira aquatica, Clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, Fatsia japonica, etc.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to propagate some ornamental plants by moisture-retaining cuttings. The cutting substrate can be rice chaff ash and fine sand mixed at a ratio of 2:1, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera arboricola, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Begonia maculata, gardenia, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia carnea, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', chloranthus, Cordyline fruticosa, jasmine, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Michelia figo, etc. During the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be propagated by water cuttings, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, chloranthus, Schefflera arboricola, Aucuba japonica, fig, Cordyline fruticosa, Plumeria rubra, Pelargonium, Aglaonema modestum, fuchsia, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers should be careful and cautious. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the needs of most ornamental plants that prefer a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, use bricks to build a simple sand bed, put 10 cm thick wet sand inside, and then place some potted flowers that prefer moisture on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Bromeliads, red (green) gem, chloranthus, etc. Usually use spraying instead of watering, which is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium, Cattleya, fuchsia, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, etc., they can be moved indoors with air conditioning, using spraying instead of watering, to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, Bougainvillea, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, black pine, Pinus thunbergii, wisteria, Carmona retusa, Adina rubella, Agave, cycad, etc., water 1 to 2 times a day and spray 1 to 2 times a day.
2. Fertilizing. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants in dormant and semi-dormant states. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or water with 0.3% urea solution, or broadcast multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flowering and fruit-viewing flowers, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, Pyracantha, finger citron, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, holly, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Carmona retusa, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, etc., after each pruning, apply one thin fertilizer.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai, such as Pinus parviflora, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Carmona retusa, plum, Acer buergerianum, etc., cover the pot surface with soft grass, moss, or wet cloth, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and protect the plants' nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, use a shade net to block light. If there are not many potted flowers on the balcony and they are relatively precious, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Serissa japonica, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma racemosum, small Myrica rubra, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Ligustrum quihoui, Buxus sinica, Pyracantha, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For faded flowers, withered stems, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, also remove them promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to occur on the balcony. Promptly spray 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder 1500 times solution to kill them. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flowers, remove them by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal 1000 times solution to kill them.

Flower Planting Manual (September)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
In September, temperatures in most parts of China gradually decline, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are relatively many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among woody ornamental plant species are: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Pseudolarix amabilis, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, cycad, Phoenix canariensis, Cycas revoluta, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus benjamina, Chinese hibiscus, Hibiscus mutabilis, Dracaena fragrans, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Schefflera octophylla, Rhapis excelsa, Plumeria rubra, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm, Chinese rose, Caryota mitis, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, red maple, Cycas revoluta, Picea species, Schefflera arboricola, Garcinia subelliptica (Clusiaceae), Bambusa ventricosa, Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Murraya paniculata, Schefflera, Nandina domestica, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Canna generalis, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, Begonia maculata, marigold, ornamental pepper, Lycoris radiata, Catharanthus roseus, globe amaranth, dahlia, dragon's mouth flower, etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: peony, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Calycanthus chinensis, Phoenix canariensis, etc. Among them, Aesculus seeds can be sown in furrows, and when sowing the hilum should face down, and the soil covering should not be too deep, with 2 to 2.5 cm being appropriate. Cover with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Calycanthus chinensis seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except for Calycanthus chinensis, which can be dry-stored until spring sowing, the other species mentioned above must all be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, Dianthus, Silene armeria, Silene pendula, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, black-eyed Susan, iris, Verbena, etc. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as Cyclamen, Primula, Tropaeolum, Senecio cruentus, Begonia semperflorens, Gerbera jamesonii, Calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice chaff ash as the cutting substrate, flower species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: Pyracantha, Mahonia, Michelia figo, Bougainvillea, Weigela florida, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', fuchsia, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball viburnum, Weigela florida, Brunfelsia, jasmine, chloranthus, Odontonema strictum, Justicia carnea, rubber tree, Schefflera arboricola, Cordyline fruticosa, etc. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: Buxus species, Magnolia liliiflora, Hypericum, Spiraea, pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, Spiraea thunbergii, Hydrangea macrophylla, French holly, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Nandina domestica, fig, oleander, Serissa japonica, gardenia, Fatsia japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, peony, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum, etc.
3. Grafting. The following flower plants can be propagated by grafting: use peony root sections as rootstocks and graft superior variety peonies; use seedling plants of Prunus persica, apricot, etc. as rootstocks and bud graft Prunus triloba, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum, etc.; use Acer palmatum seedling plants as rootstocks and bagged moisture-retaining cleft graft red maple, lace-leaf maple, etc.; use Magnolia denudata seedling plants as rootstocks and bud graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata and Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as the rootstock and * graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedling plants as rootstocks and bud graft kumquat, etc.; use Chionanthus retusus as the rootstock and * graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as the rootstock and * graft superior variety wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Michelia figo, Camellia japonica, chloranthus, French holly, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea, etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Aglaonema modestum, Oxalis triangularis, Rudbeckia laciniata, Sansevieria trifasciata, Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Aglaonema commutatum, sword fern, Nandina domestica, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliiflora, Liriope platyphylla, Aspidistra elatior, Liriope muscari, etc. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris radiata, Scilla peruviana, etc. can also have their daughter bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there is a special need, flower plants are generally not transplanted in the courtyard. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out provided there are good soil balls. Species such as: oleander, Sabina chinensis, Michelia figo, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', osmanthus, Camellia japonica, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Buxus species, Hypericum, French holly, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', etc. Transplanting requires intense pruning, and strengthening watering, spraying, and shading management can ensure that transplanting is completely safe. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, cockscomb, Catharanthus roseus, sulfur cosmos, small dahlia, Calendula officinalis, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants that grow vigorously and have strong sprouting ability. This is also the last pruning of ball-shaped plants in the growing season this year in northern regions. The main courtyard hedge and color-block tree species suitable for pruning are: Buxus species, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum quihoui, Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', etc. Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', Buxus, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, holly, Photinia, Pittosporum tobira, Pyracantha, Forsythia viridissima, etc. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be tip-pruned and pinched include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Kochia scoparia, marigold, French marigold, etc. It is advisable to pinch once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and produce more inflorescences on lateral shoots. Stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that continue flowering for a long time, such as variety roses, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Lantana camara, bougainvillea, etc., promptly cut off faded flowers and withered stems, and appropriately shorten the branches that have already flowered, which can effectively promote reblooming.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted into the courtyard in the spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job of watering and misting is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival results. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw ropes wrapped around the trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunks; third, spray water on the crowns to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers introduced successively, also do a good job of misting to retain moisture.
4. Fertilizing. For colorful foliage plants grown in the ground, such as golden privet (Ligustrum vicaryi), red-leaf barberry (Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea), red maple (Acer palmatum), red-flowered loropetalum (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum), variegated shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet variegata), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), spotted aucuba (Aucuba japonica var. variegata), red mulberry (Acalypha wilkesiana), red-leaf dwarf cherry, red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera var. atropurpurea), red-leaf peach, and so on, in order to keep their leaf colors fresh and vivid, phosphate and potassium fertilizers should be applied as a supplementary dressing. For ground-planted flowering trees and shrubs that bloom continuously or are grown in autumn for their flowers or fruit, such as crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis), fragrant osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixiang Gui'), four-season mandarin (Citrus microcarpa), flowering pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, lantana, heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), firethorn (Pyracantha), Ardisia crenata, kumquat, and so on, as well as the many ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, a quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied as a supplementary dressing. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, and Dan osmanthus that are currently blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth harming crape myrtle, firethorn, crabapple, and other flowering trees and shrubs, a spray of 90% trichlorfon crystals at 800 times dilution can be used for control; for the star longhorn beetle harming crape myrtle, papaya, and crabapple, poison sticks can be inserted into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, a spray of 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution can be used for control in the early stage of the disease.
6. Seed collection. The woody ornamental plants from which seeds can be collected are mainly flowering trees of the Magnoliaceae family, such as Oyama magnolia (Magnolia sieboldii), Michelia figo, purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), Magnolia wilsonii, Michelia chapensis, Michelia multiflora, Michelia maudiae, and southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora). In addition, there are also buckeye species (Aesculus), crape myrtle, lilac, crabapple species, redbud (Cercis chinensis), Exochorda racemosa, yew (Taxus), and shiny-leaf wintersweet (Chimonanthus nitens), among others. For Magnoliaceae as well as yew, buckeye, and crabapple species, the seeds must be stored in wet sand until early next spring after treatment, and sown in the ground only after the seeds have cracked open. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold (Tagetes erecta), zinnia, garden balsam (Impatiens balsamina), four-o'clock (Mirabilis jalapa), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), strawflower (Helichrysum bracteatum), and China aster (Callistephus chinensis). After collection, thresh them promptly and store them dry until next spring for sowing.
Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so the watering management of potted flowers must not be neglected. As for watering frequency, for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month they can be watered or misted once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month reduced to one watering, with appropriate misting of the leaves. For most potted flowering plants and bonsai, they can be watered once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves. The watering time should be before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer an acidic environment, a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder can be added to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, the amount and frequency of watering (or misting) can be gradually increased. While watering potted plants, the soil of the plants should be loosened once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is precisely the period of vigorous growth for most flowers. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as the temperature gradually turns cooler, and fertilizer management should be highly valued this month. For foliage plants, such as split-leaf philodendron (Monstera deliciosa), rubber tree (Ficus elastica), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Brazilian wood (Dracaena fragrans), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, broadleaf lady palm (Rhapis excelsa), Fagraea fragrans, cinnamon species, money plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia, also called dragon-phoenix tree), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), fishtail palm (Caryota), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), red (green) gem (Ficus elastica 'Ruby'), green king (Aglaonema), silver queen (Aglaonema commutatum), maranta species, arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), and fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), still mainly use low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flowering trees and shrubs with a very long flowering period or whose peak flowering period is in autumn, such as Chinese rose, tricolor lantana, lantana, pomegranate, crape myrtle, orchid tree (Aglaia odorata), white orchid (Michelia alba), jasmine, four-season osmanthus, fragrant osmanthus, and osmanthus, for fruiting plants such as bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), heavenly bamboo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, papaya, golden bullet tree (Diospyros cathayensis), purple beautyberry (Callicarpa), and fruiting pomegranate, and for colorful-leaf plants such as croton, spotted aucuba, bromeliad species, variegated banyan (Ficus), golden-edged Brazilian wood, cordyline (Cordyline fruticosa), and coleus, a fertilizer type balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied as a supplementary dressing. For fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida), geranium (Pelargonium), calla lily (Zantedeschia), cyclamen, wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), Daphne odora, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), sedum species, portulacaria (Portulacaria afra, also called jade leaf), purple triangular wood sorrel (Oxalis triangularis), clivia, and epiphyllum (Epiphyllum), which are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed by watering; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud swelling stage, such as camellia, camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, Michelia figo, and azalea, a low-concentration fertilizer type with balanced nutrients can be applied as a supplementary dressing; for potted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), marigold, chrysanthemum, China aster, dahlia, and dwarf sunflower, a thin fertilizer can be applied as a supplementary dressing once every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, the temperature is relatively high and the sunlight is still intense, so the shading management of courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving foliage plant species, such as split-leaf philodendron, rubber tree, sword fern (Nephrolepis), Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), arrowhead vine, maranta species, pothos, broadleaf lady palm, green king, silver queen, orchid grass, Dieffenbachia, Arecastrum romanzoffianum, Aspidistra, begonia, Epipremnum pinnatum, dwarf Philodendron, red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia, red-veined shrimp plant (Justicia), asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus), Schefflera, variegated brake fern (Pteris), watermelon peperomia (Peperomia argyreia), variegated Dieffenbachia, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Anthurium, staghorn fern (Platycerium), mirror grass (Pilea peperomioides), Adina pilulifera, king palm, and lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), through shading, give 5 to 6 hours of light each day; for light-loving species, such as trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), ginkgo, water willow (Adina rubella), black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis, stump), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), crape myrtle, Norfolk Island pine, wisteria, orchid tree, jasmine, firethorn, Chinese rose, oak (Quercus), and Chinese fringetree (Fraxinus chinensis), full sunlight can be given; for semi-shade-loving species, such as Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), five-needle pine (Pinus parviflora), tiger thorn (Damnacanthus indicus), red nanmu (Syzygium buxifolium), loropetalum, night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), heavenly bamboo, jade plant (Crassula ovata), azalea species, camellia, camellia sasanqua, finger citron (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), bitter orange, and kumquat, appropriate shading can be given around noon. For newly transplanted and potted autumn herbaceous flowers, appropriate shading should also be given to prevent the plants from wilting and affecting their recovery growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue to do a good job of bud removal and disbudding; for Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, orchid tree, jasmine, Chloranthus, bougainvillea, lantana, golden shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea), and coral flower (Justicia carnea), pruning should be carried out after each flowering; for those stump bonsai species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily, and grow vigorously, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry (Sageretia thea), trident maple, Fujian tea, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), red nanmu, small-leaf privet (Ligustrum sinense), water willow, boxwood (Buxus sinica), Chinese arborvitae (stump), true juniper (Juniperus chinensis), Chinese fringetree, and tamarisk (Tamarix), continue to prune or pinch off buds. In addition, money tree seedlings can be braided into "braids" and potted.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on potted plum blossom, crabapple, longevity peach, and ornamental peach plants, poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or carbofuran granules can be buried for control. For Japanese wax scale (Ceroplastes japonicus), cottony cushion scale (Icerya purchasi), armored scale (Diaspididae), and felt scale (Eriococcidae) appearing on potted flowering trees and shrubs, 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution can be used for control.
Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have long been placed on the balcony or relatively resistant potted flowering trees and shrubs can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, (Pinus thunbergii 'Jin Song'), red pine (Pinus densiflora), five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, water willow, trident maple, Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), wintergreen (Ilex), wintersweet, fruiting pomegranate, boxwood, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, Chinese fringetree, banyan, bougainvillea, Chinese rose, agave, ginkgo, orchid tree, jasmine, Chinese hackberry (Celtis sinensis), Buddhist pine, prickly elm (Ulmus), snow-in-summer (Serissa japonica), firethorn, and lantana, among others. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as cymbidium (Cymbidium hybridum), oncidium (Oncidium), dendrobium (Dendrobium), cattleya (Cattleya), vanda (Vanda), spider orchid (Brassia), Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium, clivia, fuchsia, and Fittonia; for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as broadleaf lady palm, split-leaf philodendron, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, Aspidistra, areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), fishtail palm, king coconut (Cocos nucifera), (Ficus), spotted aucuba, and Schefflera. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony, a large-diameter flower pot can continue to be used as a container, filled with a mixed substrate of rice chaff ash and wet sand at 1/2 each, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, cordyline, spotted aucuba, Schefflera, fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, camellia, camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus, jasmine, red-backed Excoecaria, coral flower, golden shrimp plant, Michelia figo, and silver queen Aglaonema. Schefflera, Chinese rose, gardenia, fig, and Guangdong evergreen can also be water-propagated indoors.
Management of Balcony Flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that relatively prefer moisture, such as spring orchid (Cymbidium goeringii), Jian orchid (Cymbidium ensifolium), (Paphiopedilum), split-leaf philodendron, Aspidistra, camellia, camellia sasanqua, dwarf Philodendron, Chloranthus, and bromeliads, they can be placed on wooden slats resting over a balcony water pool or water tank, or placed in a simple self-built sand pool, and ordinarily misting is used instead of watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, more misting and less watering should also be done, so as to keep the pot soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, water should be misted at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even a relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will dehydrate and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For relatively resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, continue to water once a day and mist 1 to 2 times a day, or use the soaking-pot method to prevent the phenomenon of the pot soil being wet on top and dry below. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, and care should be taken that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and a small amount of light-green ferrous sulfate should be added to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, low-concentration liquid fertilizer should also be appropriately applied by watering; for vigorously growing potted stump bonsai, a thin liquid fertilizer can be applied by watering after each pinching and pruning; for potted flowering trees and shrubs grown mainly for flowers and fruit, such as white orchid, Chinese rose, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, Chloranthus, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, and kumquat, continue to apply quick-acting phosphate and potassium fertilizers as a supplementary dressing; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as camellia, camellia sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, osmanthus, and chrysanthemum, an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphate and potassium fertilizer or a multi-element compound fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium can be applied as appropriate according to the different species. The types of fertilizer applied to flowers and trees on the balcony should not carry an unusual odor, especially not a foul odor, and care should be taken when applying by watering not to splash down to the floor below, and to operate carefully.
3. Shading. For stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the pot soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, and so on; when there are not many potted flowers, they can be moved indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull up shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, water willow, boxwood, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, creeping juniper (Juniperus procumbens), small-leaf privet, and Chinese fringetree, pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowering trees and shrubs, dead branches, yellow leaves, and faded flowers and stems should also be removed promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowering trees and shrubs are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be killed by spraying 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution; for the double-striped cedar longhorn beetle appearing on Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper, and prickly cypress bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on plum blossom, crabapple, papaya, and longevity peach flowers and trees, continue to insert poison sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for the various scale insects harming camellia, firethorn, crape myrtle, and wintersweet, when the number is small they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution can be sprayed for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October Chapter)

Flowers Suitable for Courtyard Display

    In October, temperatures drop across most of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month, there are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), whitebark pine (Pinus bungeana), Japanese fir (Abies firma), spruce species, Buddhist pine, (Nageia nagi), sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), Dutch iron (Yucca), Fagraea fragrans, (Cinnamomum kotoense), osmanthus, cotton rose, rubber tree, Schefflera, variegated banyan, hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), golden larch (Pseudolarix), croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, broadleaf lady palm, ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata), leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), spotted aucuba, thick-leaf fig (Ficus), fishtail palm, areca palm, king coconut, cordyline, beautiful phoenix palm (Phoenix roebelenii), fiddle-leaf fig, desert rose (Adenium obesum), South American cycad (Zamia), (Garcinia subelliptica), giant buddha bamboo (Bambusa vulgaris 'Wamin'), red maple, silver birch (Grevillea robusta), orchid tree, white orchid, (Ficus), orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata), and heavenly bamboo, among others. Herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage, large-flowered canna, dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-joint begonia (Begonia), dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), peacock grass (Tagetes patula), marigold, five-color pepper (Capsicum annuum), cockscomb, pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), periwinkle, globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), dwarf petunia, and Guinea balsam (Impatiens hawkeri), among others. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China, and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flowers cultivated in the north.

Propagation of Courtyard Flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa), red-flowered camellia (Camellia chekiangoleosa), Michelia species, magnolia species, manglietia species, buckeye species, summer wintersweet (Calycanthus chinensis), rich seed (Ardisia), soapberry (Sapindus), Kuding tea (Ilex kudingcha), Buddhist pine, Japanese podocarpus, French holly (Viburnum), Elaeocarpus, beautiful phoenix palm, yew, Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), privet, small-leaf privet, camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), Weigela, palm, and pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), among others. Among them, when sowing buckeye, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing summer wintersweet, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. For the above seeds, except that summer wintersweet and Weigela seeds can be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, all other species can have their seeds cleaned and then stored in wet sand to promote germination until the following spring when the seeds crack and show white, and then sown. Note that before storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean. The moisture content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and falls apart when released. The ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During the storage and germination promotion process, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock (Alcea rosea), musk mallow (Malva), corn poppy (Papaver rhoeas), pot marigold, snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), dianthus species, pansy (Viola tricolor), Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), blackberry lily (Belamcanda chinensis), dwarf catchfly (Silene), tall catchfly (Silene), California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), daisy (Bellis perennis), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), iris, and verbena, among others. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa), dwarf petunia, cineraria (Pericallis), four-season primrose, African daisy (Gerbera), and calceolaria can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: red-backed Excoecaria, Schefflera, night-blooming jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum), lantana, firethorn, mahonia, finger citron, bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), cordyline, Michelia figo, aucuba, hibiscus, bougainvillea, jasmine, Chloranthus, red-leaf barberry, golden privet, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, Weigela, snowbush (Spiraea), red-flowered spiraea, bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), Hypericum, red-leaf plum, Chinese rose, doublefile viburnum (Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri), crape myrtle, rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), oleander (Nerium oleander), fig, and flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa), among others. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice chaff ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flowers and trees propagated by cuttings, when the Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by cuttings include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, wax begonia, bamboo-joint begonia, Tradescantia, golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum), clearweed (Pilea), coral flower, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), golden-veined shrimp plant (Justicia aurea), and cold chrysanthemum, among others. Those that can be propagated by cuttings (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, graft five-needle pine (including Osaka pine) with bagging for moisture retention; using peony roots as rootstock, graft fine varieties of tree peony; using 1-year-old trident maple seedlings as rootstock, graft red maple, feather maple, and so on with bagging for moisture retention; using 1-year-old white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft fine varieties of white magnolia, Yulan magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana), and red-flowered magnolia; using three-edged arrow (Hylocereus undatus) as rootstock, graft various cactus ball types; using 1-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft kumquat.

    4. Layering. Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by low layering include: camellia, plum blossom, Weigela, hydrangea, Weigela florida, flowering quince, August osmanthus, snowball (Viburnum), doublefile viburnum, purple magnolia, gardenia, Hypericum, French holly, winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), golden bell (Forsythia), Michelia figo, bridal wreath spiraea, and red-flowered spiraea, among others.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division include: heavenly bamboo, leatherleaf mahonia, mahonia, tree peony, flowering quince, snowbush, double-flowered kerria (Kerria japonica), bridal wreath spiraea, spiraea, and sago palm, among others. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: peony (Paeonia lactiflora), hosta (Hosta), spring orchid, purple calyx (Hosta ventricosa), bird of paradise (Strelitzia), cymbidium, Jian orchid, Persian buttercup (Ranunculus asiaticus), black-eyed Susan, iris, blackberry lily, lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema), silver queen Aglaonema, purple triangular wood sorrel, multi-headed green king (Aglaonema), sword fern, and Aspidistra, among others. Flower species that can be propagated by dividing bulbs include: calla lily, amaryllis (Hippeastrum), freesia, spider lily (Lycoris), tulip, and Mediterranean bluebell (Scilla peruviana), among others.

Management of Courtyard Ground-planted Flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after the Frost's Descent arrives and the leaves have fallen, such as rose of Sharon, redbud, elm-leaved spirea (Prunus triloba), pomegranate, lilac, red-leaf plum, purple magnolia, ornamental peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, red-leaf barberry, and golden privet, among others. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as leatherleaf mahonia, heavenly bamboo, Shu cypress (Sabina chinensis), Chinese juniper, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, large-leaf boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), boxwood, and Chinese boxwood (Buxus bodinieri), when transplanting, first, shorten-prune before transplanting; second, carry a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted out include: dianthus, daisy, hollyhock, ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), pansy, pot marigold, verbena, phlox, snapdragon, autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), dwarf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), and ribbon grass (Reineckea carnea), among others. Bulbous flower species that can be planted in the ground include: narcissus, pheasant's eye narcissus (Narcissus poeticus), tulip, and hyacinth, among others.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for the hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, red-flowered loropetalum, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, golden-edged boxwood, large-leaf boxwood, boxwood, French holly, privet, Photinia davidsoniae, and small-leaf privet, among others. Ball-shaped plants that need pruning include: Chinese juniper, boxwood, bayberry (Myrica rubra), Chinese holly, wintergreen, photinia, Pittosporum, and firethorn, among others. For ground-planted flowering trees and shrubs in the courtyard that bloom continuously, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, lantana, and bougainvillea, continue to cut off faded flowers and stems, and moderately shorten-prune the branches that have already flowered. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as scarlet sage, marigold, and globe amaranth, promptly cut off the open inflorescences to promote continued flower formation and blooming on the side shoots, thereby extending the ornamental period.

    3. Watering. For courtyard flowers and trees newly planted in the same year, continue to do a good job of watering and misting. First, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no waterlogging; second, continue to mist the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For autumn herbaceous flowers planted in the courtyard ground, a quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied as a supplementary dressing; for osmanthus types that have already flowered, a ring-shaped trench can be opened to bury base fertilizer; for Chinese rose, crabapple, crape myrtle, cotton rose, as well as camellia, Michelia figo, plum blossom, and wintersweet that have already been pruned, an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer can be buried; for heavenly bamboo and firethorn that are currently in the fruit-viewing state, as well as southern finger citron, kumquat, bitter orange, and golden bullet tree, a small amount of quick-acting phosphate and potassium fertilizer can be appropriately applied by watering, which can effectively prolong the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted plum blossom, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, and crabapple, continue to use poison sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them, and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewashing of the trunks can be carried out at the end of the month, or lime-sulfur mixture can be applied directly to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Buddhist pine, Japanese podocarpus, soapberry, buckeye, purple magnolia, white magnolia, manglietia, southern magnolia, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia amoena, yellow orchid (Michelia champaca), golden-leaf Michelia, Michelia maudiae, red-flowered manglietia, Michelia platypetala, pond cypress, broadleaf lady palm, Ardisia crenata, beautiful phoenix palm, Chinese fan palm, Kuding tea, French holly, camphor tree, privet, small-leaf privet, doublefile viburnum, hall crabapple (Malus halliana), papaya, sago palm, ginkgo, yew, and oil tea (Camellia oleifera), among others. These seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be stored dry include: crape myrtle, Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), red maple, trident maple, golden larch, dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), Chinese tallow (Triadica sebifera), silktree (Albizia julibrissin), goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria), cotton rose, southern sour jujube (Choerospondias axillaris), redbud, happy tree (Camptotheca acuminata), Bischofia polycarpa, and five-angle maple (Acer), among others. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: scarlet sage, cockscomb, zinnia, globe amaranth, small dahlia, marigold, peacock grass, China aster, garden balsam, four-o'clock, Kochia scoparia, strawflower, cosmos, snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbia marginata), painted euphorbia (Euphorbia heterophylla), mimosa, and dancing grass (Codariocalyx motorius), among others.

In addition, at the end of October, for canna, dahlia, and so on, when their aboveground parts are close to withering, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and wait until next spring to cut and divide them for planting.

Management of Courtyard Potted Flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so the watering management of potted flowers must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, Aspidistra, split-leaf philodendron, pothos, arrowhead vine, Fagraea fragrans, Taiwan cinnamon, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', and red gem, on sunny days it is suitable to water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant types, such as calla lily, cyclamen, clivia, portulacaria, Daphne odora, geranium, and fuchsia, the amount of watering needs to be increased. For wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, and so on that bloom in winter and early spring, watering should be controlled and misting increased, so as to facilitate the swelling of their flower buds. In northern regions, for relatively cold-sensitive flower species, watering should be reduced, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots, helping them overwinter safely. The watering time is best at 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn cools, promptly apply a low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer as a supplementary dressing; for camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, clivia, cyclamen, ink orchid (Cymbidium sinense), Belgian azalea, pheasant's eye narcissus, and so on that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea as a supplementary dressing; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruiting potted plants, such as bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, heavenly bamboo, winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), rich seed, and golden bullet tree, a small amount of phosphate and potassium fertilizer can be applied as a supplementary dressing in early to mid-October.

    3. Shading. For some very shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia, split-leaf philodendron, maranta species, arrowhead vine, green gem (Ficus elastica 'Green Gem'), Boston fern, and peperomia species, shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, their dead branches and leaves, pest- and disease-damaged branches, and weak branches should be pruned off first; for leggy branches, strong shortening pruning should be carried out; for binding materials that have been in place for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or removed and then re-bound, to prevent long-term binding at fixed positions from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions, in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate low temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or stump bonsai, they can be buried in wind-sheltered, sunny soil at the end of the month to prevent the pot soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin region, weather change information should be accurately grasped to avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowering trees and shrubs, collect them uniformly, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control should be carried out against aphids, chrysanthemum tiger (beetle), leaf-miner moth larvae, inchworms, and other pests.

Potted Plants Suitable for Balcony Display

    On the balcony in early to mid-October, there is still strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowering trees and shrubs that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have relatively strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: black pine, Japanese black pine, Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, water willow, Chinese fringetree, Fujian tea, Buddhist pine, Chinese arborvitae, Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper, boxwood, pomegranate, bougainvillea, thick-leaf fig, ginkgo, Chinese rose, jasmine, orchid tree, sago palm, firethorn, lantana, tamarisk, and red maple, among others. Some cold-sensitive southern flower and tree species, when the temperature drops to 10°C, can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony. For some flower species that prefer a relatively cool environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoor spaces at the beginning of the month, such as cymbidium, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia, cattleya, Phalaenopsis, and oncidium. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and placed on the balcony at other times, such as broadleaf lady palm, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, Aspidistra, areca palm, fishtail palm, king coconut, palm, and Schefflera. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowers and trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, on the balcony, a wide-mouthed large flower pot can continue to be used as a cutting container, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of rice chaff ash and wet sand at 1/2 each, or vermiculite alone can be used as the cutting substrate, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and a small number of ornamental plants can be propagated by cuttings, such as gardenia, Schefflera, rubber tree, aucuba, Michelia figo, jasmine, Chloranthus, Guangdong evergreen, coral flower, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, hibiscus, finger citron, silver queen Aglaonema, golden pothos, and geranium, among others.

Management of Balcony Flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago palm, banyan, rubber tree, Schefflera, Brazilian wood, money tree, orchid tree, white orchid, and jasmine, they can be watered once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for types that have already formed good flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, camellia sasanqua, and Belgian azalea, watering should not be too much, while misting the branches and leaves can effectively promote the swelling of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as split-leaf philodendron, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, dwarf Philodendron, Aspidistra, cordyline, bird's nest fern, Anthurium, money plant, maranta species, and pothos, all should be mainly misted and supplemented by watering, so as to keep the pot soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as clivia, cyclamen, calla lily, as well as cymbidium, bromeliads, and Cymbidium sinense, a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea can be applied by watering; for bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean (Citrus), lemon, heavenly bamboo, golden bullet tree, rich seed, firethorn, and winter coral, which are mainly grown for fruit viewing, continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphate and potassium fertilizer by watering; for orchid tree, white orchid, Chloranthus, and jasmine, 1 to 2 thin applications of phosphate and potassium fertilizer can be applied as a supplementary dressing in early October to help them overwinter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, protect those nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the pot soil, and prevent the pot soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the pot soil with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, and so on, especially for shallow-pot stump bonsai, which should be given even more attention. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on clear days they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon. The shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese arborvitae (stump), Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, Chinese juniper, privet, and Chinese fringetree, necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wire or non-metal wire that has been bound for more than a year, it can be untied first, and if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, a new binding position can be changed for further binding and fixation, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. For general potted flowering trees and shrubs, such as Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, flowering quince, and hall crabapple, appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, the dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the trunk, which can both protect the xylem of the trunk and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Start of Winter, the beginning of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Light Snow, the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should attach importance to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing insects, plowing the ground and applying base fertilizer; second, effectively doing cold protection and freeze protection work for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic tunnels. This month's flower management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: nasturtium, gloxinia, tuberous begonia (Begonia tuberhybrida), cyclamen, African daisy, clivia, asparagus fern, and hosta, among others.

    Flower and tree species that can be sown as collected in November include: snowbush, small-leaf privet, privet, camphor tree, pencil cedar (Juniperus virginiana), Buddhist pine, Buddhist pine, soapberry, rich seed (Ardisia crenata), palm, French holly, photinia, and photinia, among others.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film mulching must be added. The main flower and tree species for heat preservation and cold protection are: red-leaf plum, plum blossom (referring to varieties such as green calyx and palace pink), Chinese rose (referring to floribunda rose, Elizabeth, and other easy-to-root varieties), and flowering quince, among others.

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by root cuttings in November include: red-leaf plum, hall crabapple, flowering quince, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), Chinese elm, and snow-in-summer, among others. Some of these root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flower and tree species that can be densely planted and propagated by cuttings in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in November include: boxwood, boxwood, large-leaf boxwood, silver-edged boxwood, clearweed, golden-edged privet, gardenia, Hypericum, golden-flowered Hypericum, mahonia, and golden-edged snow-in-summer, among others. If managed properly, they can grow a complete root system by next spring and can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening forms. In winter, bamboo-joint begonia, begonia, lotus-leaf begonia, geranium, hibiscus, fuchsia, jade plant, portulacaria, red-backed Excoecaria, golden shrimp plant, and shrimp plant can also be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses, and can be used for potting and cultivation after spring begins.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, cuttings of cotton rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, grape, and so on can also be cut and stored, to be propagated by cuttings the following spring, which can significantly speed up their rooting and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Using green maple seedlings as rootstock, graft red maple and feather maple indoors with bagging; using apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom (the graft union is buried in soil to overwinter); using thick branches of Chinese rose (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock-scion, and branches of fine varieties of Chinese rose as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then propagate by cuttings, so that the union heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can speed up the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of fine Chinese rose varieties.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by low layering in November mainly include: flowering quince, gardenia, small-leaf gardenia, pomegranate, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, Buddhist pine, Weigela florida, osmanthus, hydrangea, purple magnolia, Chinese incense cedar (Calocedrus macrolepis), Michelia figo, snowbush, snowball, wild hydrangea, and spiraea, among others.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in November include: flowering quince, snowbush, spiraea, red-flowered spiraea, spicebush (Lindera obtusiloba), Hypericum, golden-flowered Hypericum, mahonia, butterfly bush (Buddleja), tree peony, broom (Cytisus), winter jasmine, golden bell, jasmine (Jasminum), jasmine, Chloranthus, bamboo fern (Bambusa multiplex), and bamboo (Bambusa), among others.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, canna, and large-flowered canna can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut, divided, and planted.

Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division include: Bletilla striata, Jian orchid, spring orchid, cymbidium, hosta, purple calyx, blackberry lily, iris, ornamental bromeliads, large-leaf dwarf lilyturf, ribbon grass, autumn zephyr lily, evergreen (Aglaonema), Aspidistra, and mother of thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana), among others.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, zinnia, China aster, peacock grass, marigold, and maple mallow (Abutilon), among others.

    Flower and tree species whose seeds can be collected in November and stored dry include: black pine, Huangshan pine (Pinus hwangshanensis), five-needle pine, dawn redwood, flower cypress (Chamaecyparis), Japanese flower cypress, Japanese flat cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa), silktree, sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), happy tree, eucommia (Eucommia ulmoides), red-twig dogwood (Cornus alba), Chinese tallow, wisteria, crape myrtle, peashrub (Caragana), and snowbush. Flower and tree species that can be sown as collected or must be stored in wet sand include: privet, small-leaf privet, palm, camphor tree, pencil cedar, soapberry, goji (Lycium), yew, southern magnolia, wintergreen, Chinese holly, firethorn, photinia, photinia, and Chinese rose (used for cultivating rootstock), among others.

   2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted for flowerbed planting and flower border arrangement in November include: dwarf catchfly, dianthus, hollyhock, musk mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, pot marigold, and ornamental kale, among others.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: camphor tree, southern magnolia, silktree, soapberry, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow, white magnolia, osmanthus, red maple, red-leaf plum, plum blossom, wintersweet, buckeye, linden (Tilia), giant redbud (Cercis), Chinese tulip tree, Yulan magnolia, papaya, and crabapple, among others. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately shortened or cut back, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball carried (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), so as to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut back and large branches trimmed, with a good soil ball carried and the trunk bound well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened for them to survive. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent a large amount of water from evaporating from the tree body.

    In November, plum bonsai, wintersweet, camellia, camellia sasanqua, flowering quince, and hall crabapple can be transplanted and potted, and placed in plastic tunnels to force flowers, so as to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinth, tulip, pheasant's eye narcissus, and so on should be moved into plastic tunnels to prompt them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, or rooms, the amount of watering in November is specifically measured by keeping the pot soil moist, and it must not be too wet. If the temperature is on the low side and watering is excessive, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased, and necessary leaf misting should be given.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, camellia sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, and cineraria, as well as fruiting plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, firethorn, heavenly bamboo, winter coral, and rich seed, not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be misted frequently, so as to facilitate the swelling growth of the flower buds and also make the fruit appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, and rooms, not only should the pot soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be misted frequently, so that they always remain verdant and glossy. In relatively warm greenhouses and rooms, the amount of watering can be increased. For relatively cold-sensitive foliage plants, such as arrowhead vine, maranta, Dieffenbachia, green king, croton, and silver queen, the amount of watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    The watering time for potted flowers in November is best at 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature is required to be basically consistent with the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants caused by water temperature being too low, which would then affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors where the temperature is above 15°C, species such as Western azalea, camellia, camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, Daphne odora, cineraria, cyclamen, flowering quince, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, ornamental bromeliads, Christmas cactus, and colorful bromeliads, continue to apply low-concentration phosphate and potassium fertilizer as a supplementary dressing; using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary greenhouses, topdressing should be stopped to facilitate their normal dormancy and overwintering. For most garden-planted flowers and trees, such as crabapples, southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia fordiana, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia figo, Michelia foveolata, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, spiraea, osmanthus, grape, Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, palms, red maple, tree peony, forsythia, herbaceous peony, hypericum, etc., dry cake fertilizer can be buried, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant, less for smaller plants, to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and spherical topiary that have not yet been pruned; after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, carry out comprehensive shaping and pruning, such as Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), Sageretia thea, trident maple, oak (Quercus acutissima), Fraxinus hupehensis, firethorn, Serissa japonica, Chinese juniper, Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), wintersweet, crabapple, etc., to lay a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune garden-planted or potted Chinese roses that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, besides retaining 3 to 5 robust 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base and remove all thin and weak branches; for unpruned garden-planted crape myrtle, heavily cut back the current-year branches, retaining only 20 cm to 30 cm from the base of a few thick branches and removing all other current-year branches, to promote more robust new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowers and trees in flower beds, along roadsides, and in courtyards, such as crape myrtle, hibiscus, osmanthus, camphor tree, plane tree, purple magnolia, forsythia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cherry blossom, camellia, silk tree, firethorn, pittosporum, crabapple, etc., cut off all distorted branches, thin and weak branches, inner-canopy branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and appropriately cut back water sprouts protruding beyond the crown. In addition, in November, coarse palm trees can be stripped of their fibrous sheaths and the trunks cleaned to bring out their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flower and tree species that are not very sensitive to cold, such as camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, nandina, Norfolk Island pine, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Cymbidium faberi, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), Buddha's hand, lemon, kumquat, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera octophylla, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, fish-tail palm, rubber tree, money tree (Pachira aquatica), Canary Island date palm, Rhapis excelsa, etc., they can be placed in plastic greenhouses, as long as the room temperature is maintained at no lower than about 5°C.

For cold-intolerant potted flower species, such as Calathea, Dieffenbachia, Syngonium, Philodendron selloum, Aglaonema, milkwort (Aglaonema), Polyscias, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, red (green) gem (Dracaena), Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', frangipani, lucky bamboo, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Paphiopedilum, etc., they should be placed indoors at a room temperature not lower than 10°C, or protected through winter in double-layer plastic greenhouses.

For relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowers and trees, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapples, azalea, pomegranate, Chinese elm, crape myrtle, Japanese boxwood, Sageretia thea, Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, and Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, trident maple, red maple, etc., they can be directly buried together with their pots in wind-sheltered, sunny soil; under conditions not lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, plastic film and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in greenhouses, conservatories, or rooms in November, besides ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation to prevent the plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, causing flower drop, fruit drop, and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not intrude indoors, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, care should also be taken never to let plants be directly exposed to cold drafts.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowers and trees prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses, camellias, chrysanthemums, etc., collect and burn the fallen leaves under the plants, which can significantly reduce disease occurrence next year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk and split-trunk bonsai, apply lime sulfur mixture to the dead and split trunk parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep rot in the xylem of the tree stump.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. appearing on potted flowers and trees placed in conservatories or greenhouses (they may occur on bitter orange, Buddha's hand, cycads, orchids, camellias, clivia, and Aspidistra), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray and kill them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaonema, bitter orange, and Chinese roses), spray tobacco water for control.

For Western azaleas placed in greenhouses, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as Yemianbao; otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    In November, the main bonsai plant species suitable for shaping include: Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, soft cypress, creeping juniper, Euonymus pendulus, Serissa japonica, plum blossom, wintersweet, oak (Quercus acutissima), horned holly, holly, Japanese boxwood, pearl boxwood, Chinese elm, and Hall crabapple.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and suspended with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November and the trunk and branches re-tied and adjusted.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, bougainvillea, water willow, firethorn, and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting, and branch cutting, plant them in sandy loam fields by shallow burial and high mounding; shape them after they sprout branches next year.

For tree stumps that have been cultivated and shaped for 1 to 2 years and are basically formed, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots, and branches, select suitable pots and repot them, pair them with ornamental stones, and dot with moss, so they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

Well-shaped tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, and Hall crabapple, etc., can be potted in suitable containers in November with strengthened water management, and can be used next spring for display in squares, parks, and grand halls.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most regions of our country enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south in our country, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent white frost. This month's flower and tree maintenance should emphasize three aspects of work: first, do a good job in heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees that have entered conservatories, greenhouses, and rooms; second, do a good job in pruning, cleaning, and turning and fertilizing the soil for open-field flowers and trees; third, do a good job in preparing composted organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, African daisy, etc.; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as 'Elizabeth'), nandina, Ardisia crenata, holly species, firethorn, palms, privet, camphor tree, small-leaf privet, soapberry, photinia, and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flower and tree species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings in December include: plum blossom (mainly cultivars such as Gongfen and Lüe); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda roses, and miniature roses); red-leaf plum, wintersweet (cutting with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, etc. Among them, plum blossom and red-leaf plum cuttings should use yellow subsoil; Chinese rose cuttings should use a mixed substrate of rice chaff ash and fine sand at 2:1; other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to preserve heat and moisture.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken from hibiscus, geranium, Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, gem plant, echeveria, Portulacaria afra, Bryophyllum, kalanchoe, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, wax begonia, cane begonia, Rieger begonia, Chloranthus spicatus, jasmine, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Lantana camara, Schefflera octophylla, Daphne, pothos, Cordyline, etc. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken from gardenia, golden-center (golden-edge) boxwood, Mahonia, hypericum, forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, false cypress, Serissa japonica, firethorn, silver bud willow, and Triadica sebifera. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper, lilac, grape, etc. can be cut and stored in sand, to be cuttings in spring next year.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum cultivars, such as 'Guhong' and 'Zhusha', can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, and peach sown that year; after digging up the rootstock, perform cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant at a certain row spacing in the seedbed, burying soil above the graft union, even covering most of the scion. Take care not to let water seep into the graft union, cover with plastic film to preserve heat and moisture, and remove the plastic film after the scion sprouts next spring. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars; or use robust branch sections of the 'Elizabeth' Chinese rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose scions on the upper end, then insert the grafted 'Elizabeth' scion sections into a loose seedbed. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil; do not let water seep into the graft union when watering, cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and heat, remove the plastic film after the scion sprouts next spring, and only after it has completely survived may the binding tape at the graft union be cut open with a blade. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging to preserve moisture.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine, plum blossom, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia figo, Hall crabapple, purple magnolia, snowball viburnum, weigela, gardenia, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: rain lily, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, red wood sorrel, Aspidistra elatior, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, large-leaf lilyturf, Liriope, Rohdea japonica, Bryophyllum, and Aglaonema modestum. When cutting off offsets from the base of large colorful bromeliad plants, the small plants must have already grown on the mother plant for three to four months; otherwise, the colorful bands of the separated offsets easily disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina, hypericum, Mahonia, Hall crabapple, Rhapis excelsa, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine (Jasminum officinale), jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal, bamboo palm, and Pleioblastus fortunei.

    1. Seed collection. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as salvia species, globe amaranth species, marigold, French marigold, cyclamen, clivia, etc. Clivia seeds should be sown immediately after collection.

    Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December mainly include: Chinese rose, wisteria, privet, small-leaf privet, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, holly species, camphor tree, and photinia species. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination; only after the seeds crack and show white next year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage conditions, they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising next year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds in December include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, pot marigold, daisy, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in greenhouses, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, dianthus, pansy, etc., and can be used for street display next spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, crabapples, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, Chinese scholar tree, weeping pagoda tree, etc. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palms, southern magnolia, camphor tree, rhododendron, holly, etc. When transplanting, first heavily cut back the main tip and large branches, remove most leaves, and also carry a large soil ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap with plastic film, seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowers and trees that can be potted in December include: plum blossom, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua, Hall crabapple, and Hall crabapple. Place them in greenhouses for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, red-nectar daffodils, etc., continue to be placed in greenhouses for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic greenhouses with temperatures not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without frost damage, such as asparagus fern (Asparagus densiflorus), asparagus fern, Aspidistra elatior, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, nandina, Michelia figo, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, bamboo palm, Pleioblastus fortunei, and cycads.

For ornamental plant species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera octophylla, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, pocket coconut, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, Lantana camara, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, geranium, hibiscus, and Buddha belly bamboo, they can overwinter in double-layer plastic greenhouses. For species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 10°C, such as croton, Caladium, pepperomia, Calathea, lucky bamboo, fish-tail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Fittonia, bromeliads, Dieffenbachia, poinsettia, Cymbidium hybridum, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Pachystachys lutea, Aglaonema, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Paphiopedilum, sago palm, red (green) gem, Oncidium, and Cymbidium hookerianum, in double-layer greenhouses with good sealing performance, appropriate heating is also needed; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, cover the top of the greenhouse with straw curtains, and remove them after the temperature turns warmer.

For relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapples, azalea, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, oak (Quercus acutissima), crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, red cypress, water willow, horned holly, and Fraxinus hupehensis, under temperatures not lower than -10°C they generally will not suffer freezing; if particularly cold weather occurs, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage and fruit ornamental plants are placed in greenhouses, conservatories, or rooms, besides maintaining the corresponding indoor temperature, attention should also be paid to ventilation and air exchange. Doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, attention must also be paid not to let cold wind directly blow on the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in conservatories, greenhouses, and rooms, keep the potting soil moist as the standard. If the temperature is low and watering is excessive, it is extremely easy to cause root rot in the plants. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and European daffodil, and fruit ornamental species such as bitter orange, lemon, Buddha's hand, four-season mandarin, kumquat (Fortunella hindsii), winter coral, Ardisia crenata, and nandina, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying must also be given, to facilitate the expansion of flower buds and also increase the brightness of flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying should also be given, always keeping the plant leaves clean; for relatively cold-intolerant foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia, Syngonium, Calathea, croton, and Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', when the room temperature is already close to the lower limit of the minimum temperature they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    In December, the watering time is best set at 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water temperature being too low.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, check frequently and give supplemental watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary greenhouses, fertilizing should be stopped; otherwise, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most garden-planted greening trees and flowers and trees, such as crabapples, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Manglietia fordiana, Michelia species, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palms, herbaceous peony, tree peony, forsythia, hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange, Deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, nandina, lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, Rosa banksiae, hypericum, weeping willow, Japanese cedar, deodar cedar, cypress species, Sophora japonica var. pendula, flowering almond, dwarf flowering cherry, white silk plum, photinia, redbud, hibiscus, etc., in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried around the outer perimeter of the plant root system, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, wintersweet, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, bromeliads, Daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Hall crabapple, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, and freesia, continue to apply 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution to promote bud formation and flowering.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and spherical topiary that were not pruned in November. Hedges and green walls include species such as privet, small-leaf privet, Euonymus japonicus, large-leaf boxwood, Sabina chinensis, four-season osmanthus, and Photinia davidsoniae; spherical topiary includes horned holly, bayberry, photinia, boxwood species, pittosporum, forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper, and Chinese juniper. While completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For garden-planted flowers and trees not yet pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palms, red-leaf plum, photinia, plane tree, plum blossom, and wintersweet, carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is completed, bury fertilizer around the root system.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, horned holly, Fujian tea, trident maple, oak (Quercus acutissima), Fraxinus hupehensis, firethorn, Serissa japonica, Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, crabapple, and papaya, continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repot them in combination with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowers and trees prone to leaf pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapples, roses, Chinese roses, camellia, and crape myrtle, collect and burn the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants, which can reduce disease occurrence next year. At the same time, spray lime sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, the former should be controlled in time with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For flower and tree species in greenhouses and plastic tunnels that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, cycads, camellia, and Aspidistra, first wipe them once with a cloth, then control them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaonema, bitter orange, Chinese rose, and Fujian tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated flowers and trees such as pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaf privet, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, deodar cedar, photinia, crape myrtle, and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as Ceroplastes ceriferus, Ceroplastes japonicus, red wax scale, armored scales, arrowhead scale, mealybugs, and felt scales. At this time, spraying higher-concentration pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin rarely causes phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of next year's seedling raising and potting soil preparation, the winter leisure time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water vats or ponds, add water, and seal for soaking, composting, and fermentation.

Stack dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, etc. in alternating layers with garden soil, ignite and burn them to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and raising seedlings next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken manure, and pigeon droppings with garden soil for composting, seal for fermentation, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing potting soil next year.

    7. Preparing potting soil. Using winter leisure time, find an open space or under tree shade, and pile up as much potting soil as possible to meet the needs of repotting and potting herbaceous flowers next spring. Generally, use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, and 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice chaff ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, then mix thoroughly, cover with plastic film, or pile indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning soil and freezing clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings, and planting seedlings, plowing can be done in December; for garden plots for sowing and planting seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, etc. can be applied before turning; do not make beds for the time being. After overwintering and freezing clods, in early spring next year, dig furrows and make beds, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Buddhist pine, false cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese weeping cypress, soft cypress, oriental arborvitae, creeping juniper, true cypress, black pine, five-needle pine, red pine, water willow, horned holly, holly, Euonymus pendulus, ginkgo, Serissa japonica, Caragana, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, wintersweet, tamarisk, Hall crabapple, Hall crabapple, papaya crabapple, Japanese boxwood, pearl boxwood, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fujian tea, Fraxinus hupehensis, and oak (Quercus acutissima).

For bonsai plants fixed and shaped by coiling with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation time has already been one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed and re-tied and pulled with metal wire or palm rope.

For garden-planted already-shaped plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, etc., after some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so they can be used next year for display in public places or rooms.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and tree-stump bonsai, careful management is necessary: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent plants planted on rockeries from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, around the "sanjiu" period, and most regions of our country enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year appears. This month's flower maintenance is mainly to do a good job in heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc. in conservatories, greenhouses, and rooms, followed by tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing soil, preparing potting soil, and other auxiliary work.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, African daisy, etc. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in open fields include: Chinese rose ('Elizabeth'), nandina, Ardisia crenata, holly, firethorn, palms, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow tree, goldenrain tree, etc.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: plum blossom (cultivars such as Lüe and Gongfen), red-leaf plum, Chinese rose (cultivars such as 'Elizabeth', floribunda, and miniature), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood species, pomegranate, silver bud willow, Mahonia, Buddhist pine, Serissa japonica, Triadica sebifera, hypericum, forsythia, Spiraea thunbergii, winter jasmine, and jasmine (Jasminum officinale). Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, gem plant, jade leaf, jade plant, echeveria, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, Pilea cadierei, mirror grass, shrimp plant, Pachystachys lutea, Bryophyllum, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera octophylla, rubber tree, Daphne, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Aglaonema modestum, pothos, Cordyline, etc. In addition, branches of lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela florida, Deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree, fig, etc. can be cut and stored in sand, to be cuttings in March.

    3. Grafting. For excellent plum cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, and wild peach can be used as rootstocks for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, bury and plant in the seedbed, cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold. In Guangdong, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud-graft propagation is often carried out for four-season mandarin, kumquat, etc.; use dug-up wild rose to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars, use the 'Elizabeth' Chinese rose cultivar as rootstock-scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose cultivars, with grafting and cutting carried out simultaneously, cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum blossom, weigela, gardenia, Hall crabapple, Buddhist pine, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, and red maple.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edge lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, rain lily, Zephyranthes candida, hosta, purple hosta, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant species, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema modestum, Bryophyllum, bromeliads, small tufted orchid, Alpinia zerumbet, Monstera deliciosa, and aloe. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina, hypericum, Mahonia, Hall crabapple, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine (Jasminum officinale), jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Damnacanthus indicus, gardenia, Triadica sebifera, boxwood, and purple magnolia.

    6. Seed collection. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern or clivia seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after collection; mature winter coral seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina, firethorn, holly species, and Ardisia crenata can be harvested; after treatment, carry out sand stratification for germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white can they be sown.

    In January, frequently check seeds stored in sand, including Magnolia species, Michelia species, Photinia species, holly species, etc., to see whether the seeds have become moldy. If mold occurs, the seeds must be poured out, re-rubbed and washed, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage again; if the seeds are found to be dry, supplement with water in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film or straw, pine needles, etc. to preserve heat and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, in less cold regions, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out include: dianthus species, ornamental kale, pot marigold, daisy, etc.; in relatively cold regions, seedlings of dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, primrose, etc. can be potted and first placed in simple plastic greenhouses, and after spring returns and the weather warms, used for display in street flower beds, green spaces, and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, crabapples, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple species, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, red-flowered spiraea, Triadica sebifera, Chinese rose, Chinese scholar tree, Sophora japonica var. pendula, etc. Evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree and Euonymus japonicus, in this month, except under special circumstances, should generally be transplanted earlier in December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered places, with heavy cutback after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation land preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, trident maple, azalea, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus, Euonymus pendulus, etc.; for evergreen tree stumps, such as nandina, Ilex cornuta, horned holly, holly, oak (Quercus acutissima), etc., heavy cutback must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous tree stumps or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow burial and high mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be added to protect against freezing.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management work; a little negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the minimum temperature that various flower species can tolerate, create a special environment for safe overwintering for them, either in a conservatory, or in a greenhouse, or indoors, or buried in open-field soil. In simple plastic greenhouses not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures of about 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern (Asparagus densiflorus), asparagus fern, Aspidistra elatior, Fatsia japonica, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, nandina, aucuba, Michelia figo, Cymbidium goeringii, Paphiopedilum, Ardisia crenata, Daphne, cycads, Acorus calamus, bamboo palm, and Pleioblastus fortunei. In double-layer plastic greenhouses not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures of about 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia alba, pocket coconut, Cymbidium faberi, calla lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, large Buddha belly bamboo, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, and Lantana camara. In double-layer plastic greenhouses or conservatories with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can tolerate low temperatures of about 10°C can be placed, such as croton, Caladium, Syngonium, Calathea, bromeliads, pepperomia, coleus, lucky bamboo, fish-tail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Fittonia, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Aglaonema, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, sago palm, desert rose, Dieffenbachia, poinsettia, Pachystachys lutea, and coral flower. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be covered on top of the greenhouse, and covering with straw curtains can stop only after the temperature turns warmer. On very cold days, strengthen inspections of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the electricity fail, otherwise it is very easy to cause freezing damage to the plants. For relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapples, azalea, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, oak (Quercus acutissima), crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood species, Buddhist pine, trident maple, Chinese weeping cypress, Chinese juniper, summer cypress, oriental arborvitae, small bayberry, horned holly, holly, and Fraxinus hupehensis, they can be buried together with the flower pots in soil; under temperatures not lower than -10°C, freezing damage generally will not occur, and in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in greenhouses, conservatories, or rooms, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, besides maintaining the corresponding air temperature, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well. Doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold wind directly blowing on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting conservatories and greenhouses during each cold air intrusion; if broken glass, torn film, etc. are found, plug and repair them in time, so as not to freeze the potted flowers. When supplying coal, gas, or oil heating to the conservatory, also check carefully, and do not let leaking gas or smoke enter the conservatory or greenhouse, so as to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop caused by smoke damage.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a conservatory, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 hours of additional light per day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, Hall crabapple, Hall crabapple, and winter jasmine, etc., can also be placed in greenhouses at about 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased light duration, which can meet the need for indoor display of potted flowers and trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, red-nectar daffodils, freesias, etc. already placed in conservatories in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    For potted flower watering management in January, first and most importantly, pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature. If the difference between the two is too large, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, and even cause leaf drop, root rot, or death. The watering time is best arranged at 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in conservatories, greenhouses, and rooms, keeping the potting soil moist is appropriate; when the temperature is low, reduce watering accordingly, and when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For most foliage plants, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but attention should also be paid to foliar spraying, always keeping the plant leaves clean. For relatively cold-intolerant foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia, Syngonium, Calathea, and croton, when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the minimum temperature the plant can tolerate, especially control the amount of watering. For potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum blossom, primrose, hyacinth, kalanchoe, and pot marigold, and fruit ornamental species such as firethorn, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, kumquat (Fortunella hindsii), and winter coral, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water, to facilitate the expansion of flower buds and also increase the bright color of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in remote locations from lacking water, and timely supplemental watering should be given to plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and give supplemental watering in time; especially for evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off due to overly dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most garden-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapples, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia fordiana, Michelia species, maple species, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, Chinese trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palms, Schima superba, Machilus, purple tree, camptotheca, tree peony, forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree, Chinese rose, hydrangea, red-leaf plum, dwarf flowering cherry, flowering almond, tulip tree, Deutzia, mock orange, Rosa banksiae, Elaeocarpus, golden silk willow, weeping elm, Japanese cedar, Taiwan fir, deodar cedar, Chinese scholar tree, Sophora japonica var. pendula, white silk plum, hibiscus, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, nandina, purple bamboo, pomegranate, and loquat, if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, and septic tank cleanings around the outer perimeter of the tree root system, to lay a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in conservatories at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, red-nectar daffodil, Hall crabapple, hyacinth, tulip, colorful bromeliad, clivia, bird of paradise, and Christmas cactus, continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution, to facilitate plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in greenhouses, because the plants are in a dormant state in winter, fertilizing should be stopped; otherwise, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and spherical topiary that were not pruned in December; continue pruning flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, Rosa banksiae, Chinese trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, red-leaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, plum blossom, palms, grape, etc.; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer perimeter of the root system, to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned and supplemented by tying, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia thea, bougainvillea, Fujian tea, oak (Quercus acutissima), Fraxinus hupehensis, water willow, Elaeagnus, firethorn, Serissa japonica, and Chinese juniper, continue, according to the original composition requirements and the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, to adjust and prune according to personal aesthetic taste, laying a foundation for spring growth and formation. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the trunks or large branches of crabapple, plum, elm-leaved plum, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum and the like that have been hollowed out by borers such as the peach red-necked longhorn beetle, they can be sawn off, and the sawn trunks and branches should be burned.

Clear away the fallen leaves under roses, rugosa roses, grapes, crape myrtles and the like, gather them up and burn them in a centralized manner, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases in the coming year.

For the horned wax scale, tortoise wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, thread scale and the like appearing on the trunks and branches of pittosporum, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum, wintersweet, photinia and the like, spray with high concentrations of methidathion, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime sulfur and the like to kill them, which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects in that year.

For the powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in the greenhouse and the gray mold easily appearing on the leaves of primrose, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For the scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as bitter orange, finger citron and kumquat in the greenhouse, carry out integrated control: first use a damp cloth to wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For the gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in the greenhouse, spray with 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

8. Composting fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake and the like into a water pool or water vat to soak and ferment, so as to be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; pile withered grass, branches, fallen leaves and the like in layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to make homemade burned soil, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond manure, tobacco dust, chicken droppings and pigeon manure and the like with garden soil and pile them for composting and fermentation, which can be used as fertilizer for preparing culture soil.

9. Plowing and freezing of soil

For nursery land that has not yet been turned over by December, plowing can be done promptly in early January; while plowing the garden land, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, farmyard manure and the like, and after overwintering and freezing of the soil, dig trenches and make beds in early spring, for use in sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is especially cold, the plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good toughness and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, Chinese weeping cypress, ginkgo, boxleaf holly, oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, snow-in-summer, creeping juniper, Chinese juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, golden larch, wintersweet, winged spindle tree, banyan, wisteria and the like. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in a simple plastic greenhouse, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms, which helps the healing of parts that may have been damaged during shaping.

For plants shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire and the like, if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding material should be removed and re-wrapping and guiding should be carried out.

    In January, for some shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; for tree-stump bonsai, prevent the pot soil from freezing, which would damage the plant's fibrous roots, and could cause the artificially glued rocks to disintegrate; also prevent the plants planted on small stones from dying after freezing, so they should be placed in a place where water does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, only then can they be ensured to overwinter safely.