How do you grow a Kalanchoe so its leaves are big and thick? Master these 4 care essentials
Many flower lovers have told me that the Kalanchoe they bought in the first year had big, plump leaves, but within a few months of bringing it home the big leaves turned into small ones, and by the time it bloomed the next year the leaves were very small and the stems were thin and long; or they don't know how to grow newly propagated cuttings to a large size. Friends who have these 2 situations should pay attention! Actually the solution is very simple - as long as you learn more, none of these are problems. Today I've summarized 4 major points to watch for regarding Kalanchoe leaves, so let's take a look together.
1. Fertilizing
Kalanchoe loves fertilizer. To get leaves that are big and plump, fertilizing is the most important thing. If the leaves are small and thin, it is very likely lacking fertilizer. When fertilizing, remember: weak fertilizer, applied frequently. During the autumn growing season, fertilize 2 times a month, choosing a plant fertilizer rich in phosphorus. When fertilizing, be sure to use a dilute liquid fertilizer. Autumn fertilizing is very necessary - if there aren't enough nutrients, how can the plant grow strong, and likewise the leaves can't grow big. It also needs fertilizing during the flowering period, 1-2 times a month; as long as you apply weak fertilizer frequently there is no big problem. The specific amount of fertilizer depends on your own actual situation.
2. Control watering
Many friends have a misunderstanding: when autumn comes, they give the Kalanchoe more water to help it grow. Actually, Kalanchoe is a succulent plant, with a lot of water in its body and drought tolerance; it is a plant that fears waterlogging. In autumn, slightly drier soil gives the best growth. There is no need to give a lot of water - too much watering easily causes root rot, while too dry is naturally not good for plant growth.
When watering, be sure to water thoroughly in one go, and try not to sprinkle water on the leaves, as this easily causes leaf and stem rot. Control watering well, and it is easier to get lush branches and leaves.
3. Plenty of light
Kalanchoe likes an environment with plenty of sunlight, especially during the vigorous autumn growth period. As long as it is not exposed to scorching sun, the light must be sufficient for it to grow well. Especially in late autumn, it should be placed in a spot with plenty of light during the day to help it grow.
In autumn, never place the Kalanchoe indoors without sunlight, as this will only lead to one situation: poor growth, with thin, long stems; and it very likely won't bloom.
4. Pinching and pruning
Autumn is the vigorous growth period for Kalanchoe. Even without fertilizing, it will still grow taller. To get a Kalanchoe that grows short and sturdy with big, thick leaves, pinching and pruning are a must. If you don't pinch and prune, the branches will become thin and long and the leaves small and thin. The reason is simple: the plant's nutrients are being wasted unnecessarily. This is what we call wild growth, and the plant's shape also looks bad.
Control the pinching of the whole plant to a height of about 15 cm to keep the plant short and sturdy; shape the plant well, prune off the thin, small branches and keep only the large stems to preserve nutrients. Fertilizing note: when applying liquid fertilizer, apply it to the soil around the outer edge of the roots, and even more so do not apply it on the branches and leaves, otherwise it will cause leaf rot and root rot.
Key pre-bloom care points for Kalanchoe, Christmas cactus and other flowers that bloom in late autumn
As the temperature gradually drops, we have now entered late autumn, and Kalanchoe, azalea, camellia and Christmas cactus are about to enter their flowering season. Care before blooming is very important and directly relates to the flowering time and the number of flowers. So today I've put together the pre-bloom cultivation points for these flowers, so let's take a look together.
Pre-bloom care for Kalanchoe
1. Control watering
Recently the temperature has dropped a lot. The lower the temperature, the more you must control watering. After October, Kalanchoe's growth enters the flower bud differentiation stage. During this period its water requirement is not high, so water only when the potting soil is dry, and do not water when it is not dry. At the same time, avoid watering at night, and keep the environmental humidity at 50%, which is more suitable.
2. Maintain ventilation
During the period before the Kalanchoe blooms, place the flower in a well-ventilated spot. If the air circulation is poor, it will cause the inside of the plant to become stuffy and unventilated, causing symptoms such as yellowing leaves, which is not good for the Kalanchoe's bud development.
3. Maintain temperature
The most suitable temperature for Kalanchoe growth is around 15°C. It is best to move the Kalanchoe into the house; a temperature above 12°C is enough. Temperatures that are too high or too low will both inhibit flowering.
4. Ensure light
Before the Kalanchoe blooms, ensure it gets plenty of light every day. Insufficient sunlight will cause weak flower branches and yellowing, thinning leaves, and when the flowering period arrives it will lead to fewer flowers and less vivid colors. You can place the flower on a south-facing balcony or an east- or west-facing balcony.
5. Fertilize appropriately
During this period, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to the Kalanchoe, such as monopotassium phosphate solution, spraying it on the plant once every two weeks; do not spray it on the leaves and flower buds.
Pre-bloom care for azalea
1. Maintain temperature
Azaleas are afraid of freezing. Now that the temperature is low, you should move them indoors as soon as possible; a temperature above 12°C is enough, otherwise it will affect the azalea's blooming.
2. Prune in time
After the azalea grows flower buds, you need to thin the buds. Keep only one bud on each flower branch; being greedy for more will disperse the nutrient supply. When the buds shed their covering, 2 or 3 flower buds will be revealed; at this point you should keep only 1, which will make the azalea bloom big and vivid.
3. Fertilize appropriately
1 or 2 months before flowering, start fertilizing the azalea. Use dilute nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer, with a bit more phosphorus fertilizer, fertilizing 2 or 3 times a month.
4. Pay attention to watering
Azaleas like moisture but also fear waterlogging. If using pine needle soil, water once every 2-3 days; with garden soil, water at least once a week. Usually spray water on the plant often to keep it moist.
Pre-bloom care for camellia
1. Transplanting and repotting
After October you should start repotting the camellia, and at the latest it must not go past November, otherwise the plant won't have enough time to recover, which is bad for flowering. Through transplanting and repotting, you can provide the camellia with more nutrients and promote its growth.
2. Ensure light
Although camellia is suitable for growing in a semi-shady environment, during this period it should be placed in a spot with good light, because the plant needs photosynthesis to accumulate nutrients. Insufficient light will delay flowering or result in fewer flowers.
3. Water appropriately
Recently the temperature is low and the weather is dry, so you should pay attention to watering the camellia, judging whether to water based on the dryness or moisture of the potting soil. Poke the potting soil with a wooden stick: if you find the stick is very moist, there is no need to water; if the stick is very dry, then water, and water thoroughly.
Pre-bloom care for Christmas cactus
1. Move indoors
After October, you should bring the Christmas cactus into the house and place it in a sunny spot. Doing this can maintain the temperature and reduce the temperature difference, avoiding damage to the flower buds.
2. Prune appropriately
Observe the shape of the Christmas cactus plant, cut off flower branches that are too dense and uneven, and also remove the thin, weak flower buds on the flower stems, keeping just a portion. Doing this not only makes the plant shape attractive but also allows it to bloom more.
3. Fertilize appropriately
Before flowering you can fertilize 2 or 3 times a month. Each time, bury 1 granule of compound fertilizer into the soil along the wall of the flower pot; do not bury it too deep, as it easily burns the roots. This can provide the Christmas cactus with sufficient nutrients, and it will bloom more vigorously.
Money tree and Kalanchoe hard to grow in summer? Key summer care points and tips for these two plants
It is currently the hottest time of summer, and many flower growers say that the money tree and Kalanchoe are not that easy to grow. Actually, no matter what flower it is, there are certain care tricks; as long as you master these tricks, growing them well is naturally no problem. Next let's look at the summer care guide for the money tree and Kalanchoe!
1. Money tree
1. Control water at the roots, spray water on the leaves
Controlling water at the roots of the money tree - actually, controlling water means controlling watering. Many people who grow money trees mostly kill them by overwatering and root rot, so remember that even in summer, do not water too much. Some people see that the surface of the flower pot evaporates quickly in summer, and as soon as they see the surface soil is dry they hurry to water, not realizing that there is still water in the pot. To judge whether the flower pot is short of water, you can insert a chopstick into the pot and pull it out to check once every 2-3 days; water when the chopstick is dry, and when you water, water thoroughly.
In summer, evaporation from the leaf surface is high and it easily dries out. Sometimes even if the pot is not short of water, the leaves droop; at this point you need to spray water to keep them moist. Use a spray bottle to spray water around the money tree's leaves; this not only cools it down but also quickly perks the leaves up.
2. Strengthen ventilation
The money tree likes a ventilated environment the most. Places at home near the balcony, windowsill, corridor, etc., not only have ventilation but also some scattered light, and are all very suitable for growing a money tree. If there is no ventilation, the water in the pot cannot evaporate in time, and it is also very easy to get root rot.
3. Fertilize appropriately
It is said that the money tree grows slowly, so you must not miss this summer growing period. Hurry and add fertilizer appropriately, mainly nitrogen fertilizer: fermented rice-washing water, soybean cake water, or mix slow-release fertilizer, compound fertilizer, etc. into the soil. Add fertilizer once every half a month, and in one summer there can be a big change!
4. Measures for dealing with yellow leaves and root rot
If the money tree's leaves droop and turn yellow because of too much watering and poor ventilation, then hurry and remove the yellow leaves, move the money tree to a ventilated spot, pause watering, and let it recover for 3-5 days; once the situation improves, water normally again.
If after 3-5 days the situation has not improved and the leaves are still continuing to turn yellow, then hurry and dig it out to take a look; the roots may already have rotted. Use a knife to cut off the rotted part, and soak it for 20 minutes in a carbendazim solution or potassium permanganate solution to disinfect.
After disinfecting, insert it directly into water for hydroponics. The water here is best tap water that has been left to stand (to remove chlorine). When hydroponically growing, you can add a little rooting powder, or vitamin B, or aspirin, which can speed up rooting.
If you find it troublesome, you can also cut a thin branch for hydroponics. As long as it is a healthy, sturdy one-year-old branch, the success rate of hydroponics is very high.
2. Kalanchoe
1. Kalanchoe can also bloom during its dormant period
When the temperature exceeds 35°C, the Kalanchoe begins to enter its dormant period, but some people's Kalanchoe is blooming right now. What is going on? The factor that affects whether the Kalanchoe goes dormant is temperature. If you move the Kalanchoe into an air-conditioned room, or place it on a cool balcony to grow, and the temperature is around 23-30°C, it will not enter dormancy and will continue to grow normally. Above this temperature range, it will enter dormancy.
Light also affects the Kalanchoe. If you shorten the light time so that it receives only 4 hours of mild daylight during the day and the rest of the time is spent in a cool, shaded spot, then with this alternation of cold and heat there is a temperature difference of 8-10°C, and the Kalanchoe mistakenly thinks the flowering period has arrived, so it blooms.
Of course, if your Kalanchoe has already entered its dormant period, by no means mess around with it like this; instead, learn how to get it safely through the summer!
2. How to tell whether a Kalanchoe is dormant
Most Kalanchoes go dormant in July and August. If the Kalanchoe's growth speed noticeably slows down, and it doesn't seem to grow taller, doesn't bloom, and its leaves either turn yellow or develop black rot, that means it has already gone dormant.
3. How to get a dormant Kalanchoe through the summer
If your Kalanchoe has already gone dormant, then start watering less, move it to a cool, ventilated spot, and prune off all the yellow leaves to reduce nutrient consumption. Don't do any fertilizing or repotting for now; wait until after September to talk about that.
4. When growing a Kalanchoe, you need to prune it
If a Kalanchoe is in its dormant period, it grows very easily, so those of you growing Kalanchoe must pay attention to this issue. As soon as you find the Kalanchoe growing leggy, prune it quickly, otherwise if it grows until autumn, pruning will be too late. When pruning a Kalanchoe, you can follow the principle of "remove two, keep four": for a branch with 6 pairs of leaves, cut off the length of 2 pairs of leaves and keep the stem with 4 pairs of leaves.
The cut-off tops of the Kalanchoe can also be propagated again by cuttings. Even though it is summer now, this can still be done: insert the flower branch into breathable sandy soil, water thoroughly, place it on a cool, ventilated north-facing windowsill, spray water daily to keep it moist, and it will probably take root in about 1-2 weeks.
Summer temperatures are high and the light is strong, so no matter what flower you are growing, you must do a good job with watering and other management. That's all for the summer care guide for the money tree and Kalanchoe. Here I want to emphasize: in the middle of the intense heat, you should pay more attention to your plants - that's for sure.