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Keeping Potted Pothos Safe Through Winter: Don't Miss These 5 Care Measures

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Pothos is a common household ornamental plant. Now, as temperatures drop, the autumn and winter care of pothos has drawn the attention of plant lovers. So how do you keep pothos safe through winter?

  Winter arrives in the blink of an eye, and caring for many green plants in winter is very different from other seasons. For the "immortal flower," winter care is also very important; with the slightest neglect, pothos can easily suffer frost damage and yellow leaves. So for winter care of pothos, you need to master these 5 points.

  In winter, pothos should be placed near a south-facing window to receive light, and at other times it is best placed near an east- or north-facing window. Avoid direct full-sun exposure; 2-3 hours of bright light or weak light per day is enough, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched or become rough due to overly strong light.

  In addition, pothos likes a warm and humid environment. To keep it looking fresh and green through winter, you should do the following 5 things:

  1. Place it in a sunny spot indoors as much as possible to support normal photosynthesis; if it is placed in a dark spot away from the window, move it to a sunny spot every few days for a sunbath;

  2. Control watering, but spray it with water every few days to remove dust and keep it warm;

  3. Spray the leaves with a mixture of 1% urea and 1% monopotassium phosphate to improve mineral nutrition;

  4. To prevent the lower leaves from turning yellow, use scissors to cut off the overly dense small axillary branches on the upper part, keeping the nutrition balance between top and bottom;

  5. Keep rotating the direction in which the pot is displayed so the leaves receive even light.

  Pothos likes a warm environment. To get it safely through winter, the following measures should be taken:

  In addition to the above 5 points, when caring for pothos in winter, open windows as little as possible, especially in low-temperature and windy weather, to avoid frost damage to the leaves. If the indoor temperature in winter stays above 10°C, it can safely overwinter; for most households, reaching this temperature is not a big problem. But the key is also to avoid too large a difference between day and night temperatures, otherwise the normal growth of the plant will be affected. Also be careful not to place it near heating equipment just to keep it warm, so that the dry air and sudden temperature changes do not affect the plant's growth.

  Winter weather is generally rather dry, so you should spray water on the leaves and clean the leaves to ensure normal photosynthesis. In winter, control watering as much as possible; the amount of water should be 1/4 to 1/2 of the original. The water used should be water that has been left to stand, with a temperature the same as the potting soil. When watering in winter, it is best not to pour water directly into the pot; instead, water along the coir pole. When spraying, try to spray where the aerial roots grow, which can reduce water evaporation and ensure the plant has sufficient water.

  Reduce fertilizing in winter; a small amount of foliar feeding is enough. Pothos should be moved outdoors only after Qingming.

  Warm tip: If after spring arrives you find the pothos leaves drooping and looking scorched and withered, it may have been frozen during winter. At this point, as long as the stems are still green, through routine care such as fertilizing and watering, giving it appropriate light, and careful attention, the plant will grow new leaves again.

How to Grow Hydroponic Pothos Well and How to Care for and Manage Hydroponic Pothos

Hydroponic pothos is a climbing vine foliage plant. Its vines are slender and soft, and its leaves are delicate and elegant. It is a darling plant on office desks, and many companies like to display pothos. So how do you grow hydroponic pothos well, and how do you care for and manage hydroponic pothos?

Hydroponic Pothos Growing Methods

Hydroponic pothos is mainly grown by cuttings. In late spring and early summer, cut 15 cm to 30 cm stems, remove the leaves from the first 1 to 2 nodes at the base, and pot them directly in growing medium, with 3 to 5 stems per pot. Water thoroughly, place in a cool and ventilated spot, and keep the potting soil moist. Roots and sprouts will form in about one month, and within the same year it can grow into a plant with ornamental value. In spring and summer, cuttings taken from stems root easily; for making a totem pole, tip cuttings with large leaves must be used, as they take shape relatively quickly. Hydroponic pothos can also be grown in water, but compared with soil-grown plants, the plants are smaller. For newly cut hydroponic pothos grown in water, it generally takes about within one week for roots to grow.

Care and Management of Hydroponic Pothos

In northern China in autumn and winter, to make up for the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased. The method is to place the hydroponic pothos in the spot indoors with the best light, or move it to a sealed balcony to bask in the sun at noon. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open windows as little as possible, because the leaves may be frost-damaged within an extremely short time. At a room temperature above 10°C, hydroponic pothos can safely overwinter; at a room temperature above 20°C, hydroponic pothos can grow normally. For most households, reaching this temperature is not a big problem. What needs attention is avoiding too great a temperature difference, and also making sure the leaves are not close to heating equipment.

The amount of watering in autumn and winter should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. Before heating begins, the temperature is lower and the soil in the pot evaporates more slowly, so watering should be reduced, with the amount controlled at 1/4-1/2 of the original. Even after heating begins, watering should not be too frequent. When watering, pour less directly into the pot and let water seep through the coir. In addition, water should also be sprayed where the aerial roots grow on the coir pole, to reduce insufficient root water uptake caused by overly rapid evaporation. For winter watering, water that has been left to stand for a day is better; water that is too cold easily damages the roots.

In autumn and winter, plants mostly grow slowly or even stop growing, so fertilizing should be reduced. Before winter begins, mainly use liquid inorganic fertilizer, about once every 15 days. After winter begins, fertilizing should mainly be foliar spraying, applied mainly through the stomata on the leaves; the fertilizer is absorbed through the stomata on the leaves, and the fertilizer effect can act directly on the leaves. Special fertilizer should be used for foliar fertilizer; ordinary inorganic fertilizer is not easily absorbed by the leaves.

Hydroponic pothos grows relatively quickly and is easy to cultivate and manage. During cultivation and management, spray the plant more often in summer, and add nutrient solution once every 10 days to keep the leaves green. For potted seedlings, when the seedlings grow 30 cm above the growing pole, they should be cut off; when fallen basal leaves reach 30%-50%, the plants should be discarded and replanted. The green-pole potted form is an ideal plant for courtyard gateposts and wall greening, and its leaves are also excellent foliage for flower arrangements. Plant or directly insert 4-5 plants per pot, and set up a coir pole in the middle of the pot to make it easy for the hydroponic pothos to twine and grow upward. Shaping and pruning should be done in spring.

When the stems and vines have covered the coir pole and the tips extend about 20 cm beyond the coir pole, cut off 40 cm of the stem tips of 2-3 of the plants. After the shortened stems sprout new buds and new leaves, cut off the stem tips of the remaining plants.

The above is the relevant introduction in this article. I believe that after reading it you also have a simple understanding of this. If needed, you can continue to follow No.1 Home Network to learn more information.

Why Do Large-Leaf Pothos Leaves Turn Yellow? Remedial Care Measures for Yellowing Pothos Leaves

  Why do large-leaf pothos leaves turn yellow? How to remedy it? Nowadays many people place a few potted plants at home for decoration, but during the process of growing and caring for them, problems arise for various reasons, such as yellowing leaves, leaf drop, root rot, and so on, all of which affect the plant's growth. Today, the editor will talk about the causes of yellowing leaves in large-leaf pothos and remedial care measures.

  1. Causes of Yellowing Leaves in Large-Leaf Pothos and Solutions

  1. Lack of light: Large-leaf pothos likes a shaded environment, but being in a dark environment for a long time will cause the leaves to turn yellow, and if this continues for a long time it will lead to more yellow leaves and leaf drop; solution: place the large-leaf pothos in a spot with light, but with indirect light, because direct exposure to overly strong light will not only fail to relieve the yellow leaves, but in serious cases will also cause the large-leaf pothos to be sunburned to death.

  2. Temperature too low: Large-leaf pothos is suited to a mild environment for cultivation, and when the temperature is too low it will cause yellow leaves; solution: in winter, move the large-leaf pothos to a relatively warmer place. For those that send out new branches in early spring, protective measures should be taken to provide a warm environment.

  3. Too much fertilizer: Large-leaf pothos needs fertilizer for nourishment during care, but you should not apply a lot of fertilizer just because you want it to grow well, as this will burn the roots of the large-leaf pothos and cause yellow leaves; solution: when too much fertilizer has been applied and yellow leaves appear, first take the roots of the large-leaf pothos out of the potting soil, change to a pot of new soil, and continue growing it.

  4. Improper watering: The cause of yellow leaves in large-leaf pothos is mostly improper watering; solution: water reasonably. When the potting soil has already become dry and cracked, water more; when water keeps seeping out of the potting soil, it means too much water is usually being applied, and at this time just remove the excess water.

  2. Care Methods for Large-Leaf Pothos

  1. Suitable temperature: The suitable growing temperature for large-leaf pothos is 20 degrees, so when the temperature is below 20 degrees, protective measures should be taken, such as covering the large-leaf pothos with a protective film, or moving the potted large-leaf pothos to a relatively warm environment for care.

  2. Indirect light: Large-leaf pothos does not have very high light requirements and avoids direct strong sunlight, so do not place large-leaf pothos on the balcony. It is enough to move it out to sunbathe appropriately on days with relatively mild light.

  3. Reasonable watering: Large-leaf pothos does not like its roots to be soaked in wet soil for a long time, otherwise it will cause root rot or pests and diseases, so when watering, water a small and appropriate amount, just ensuring that the potting soil does not become dry and cracked.

  4. Proper fertilizing: Large-leaf pothos should use specially prepared fertilizer. During winter, switch to diluted inorganic fertilizer, generally applying once every 15 days. When fertilizing, it is enough to apply it only on the leaves of the large-leaf pothos, without applying it to the roots, and it can safely overwinter.

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