Efficient Cultivation Techniques and Daily Care Management of Phalaenopsis in Northern China

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Phalaenopsis is a flower that many friends love. Today, the editors of Huinong Network have compiled an article on the cultivation and management of Phalaenopsis in northern China. Flower growers in the north, come and learn!

1 Cultivation Techniques for Phalaenopsis in Northern China

1.1 Cultivation Containers

Cultivation methods vary, and so do cultivation containers. Generally, for large-scale cultivation of Phalaenopsis, clay pots or plastic pots can be used as cultivation containers. If in a flower shop or flower supermarket, decorative pots can be chosen as cultivation containers; if for commercial flowers, proper care is needed before they go on the market, and 5-13 cm transparent plastic nutrient pots can be chosen as cultivation containers.

1.2 Cultivation Substrate

In the process of cultivating Phalaenopsis, the substrate should ideally be one with good aeration and drainage. Generally, commonly used substrates include peat, sphagnum moss, sawdust, coconut husk chunks, and moss, while in the Dalian area the commonly used substrate is sphagnum moss. Peat is also easier to manage overall than sphagnum moss when growing Phalaenopsis. For example, with sphagnum moss, if it is packed too tightly during repotting it will affect root growth, while if packed too loosely it easily leads to acidification of the moss and root rot of the Phalaenopsis; peat, however, has good water permeability and can well avoid these problems, reducing the technical difficulty of potting.

2 Care Techniques for Phalaenopsis in Northern China

2.1 Seedling Care

In the process of caring for seedlings, the first step is potting the small seedlings: after the bottle-grown seedlings are removed from the bottles, they need to be transplanted into 5 cm pots after 2-3 months, then wrapped at the root zone with premium sphagnum moss that has been soaked 1 day earlier (with a moisture content of about 30%), avoiding exposure of the roots. The leaves should not be wrapped in the moss either; when wrapping, pay attention to tightness to avoid damaging the leaves and roots. After potting is completed, water half-through with a 1500-fold solution of thiophanate-methyl, or spray with a fungicide on the 2nd day.

2.2 Medium Seedling Care

When repotting medium seedlings, there are also certain standards: if after 3-4 months from potting the seedling's leaves have reached 12 cm in length and >3 cm in width, it can be transplanted into an 8 cm pot; if its root system is relatively robust, it can also be transplanted. During medium seedling repotting, the main task is to take the seedlings that have met the standard out of the 4 cm pots and treat them appropriately, removing rotted or old roots. After repotting is completed, care is needed: sterilize 1 day after repotting, and then perform a sterilization operation every 10 days thereafter. Usually, the fungicide can be 800-fold zinc-manganese B Plus + 1000-fold Yili, or 3000-fold 99% tetracycline, used alternately.

2.3 Large Seedling Care

When repotting large seedlings, it is generally done only after the medium seedlings have grown for 2-3 months; at this time, if the leaf tip distance is 20 cm and the root system is very robust, they can be moved into 11-13 cm pots. When repotting, first place a layer of foam plastic granules in the transparent plastic pot, then add sphagnum moss, take the large seedling out of the 8 cm pot, remove the previous rotten leaves and roots, and wrap it with a layer of sphagnum moss. After repotting is completed, proper care is needed: place seedlings of different sizes separately for easier care, and sterilize 1 day after repotting, the same as the above operation.

2.4 Spike Emergence Care

Usually, flower forcing takes about 50 days; if the seedling begins to push out a flower stalk, stop the low-temperature flower forcing operation and place plants that have pushed out flower stalks separately from those that have not. After spike emergence, promptly adjust the direction of the flower spike so that the leaves are oriented east-west, and the direction of the flower stalk is based on the growth point facing south. During spike emergence, proper care is also needed: alternate fertilizer and water for root irrigation, usually 2 fertilizer applications and 1 water application; for fertilization, high-phosphorus fertilizer and balanced fertilizer can be used alternately, both at a 5000-fold solution.

2.5 Flowering Period Care

Flower buds will sprout 30 days after the flower stalk is pushed out. At this time, the pot should not be moved over a large range, and clips should be added promptly; each flower spike can have at most 3 clips, with the highest clipped about 15 cm below the 1st flower bud. During this period, relatively strong light is needed, with 20000-35000 Lux being the optimal light intensity, so a suitable light position must be chosen. Temperature also needs proper control: during flowering, the daytime temperature is best at 22-28°C, and must not be lower than 20°C or higher than 30°C; the nighttime temperature should be controlled at 20-25°C, with a minimum of no less than 18°C and a maximum of no more than 25°C. In humidity control, during flowering the humidity is best maintained at 60%-70%, with a minimum of no less than 50% and a maximum of no more than 80%. Too high humidity easily causes plant diseases, ultimately affecting its marketability; too low humidity greatly shortens its lifespan, and may ultimately cause symptoms such as premature flower withering. After flowering, fertilization can be appropriately reduced; during the period from flower bud to flowering, only 2 fertilizer applications are needed. In addition, trace elements need to be appropriately supplemented to promote robust plant growth.

That is all about the cultivation and management techniques for Phalaenopsis in northern China. Farmer friends in the north who grow this flower must study the knowledge points in this article well.

Complete Guide to Phalaenopsis Cultivation Techniques

Cultivation Conditions

(1) Temperature

Phalaenopsis is a tropical plant, and the cultivation temperature should be maintained between 15-34°C. Suitable temperatures are as follows: 26-27°C during the growth stage, 19-21°C during the flowering stage; to obtain more flower stalks, the temperature can be maintained at 18-20°C for a total of 4-8 weeks. When light is insufficient or the daytime temperature is too high, maintain 18°C to strengthen flower forcing (inducing flower bud formation). Because leaf growth must also be maintained during the flowering period, the low-temperature period should not be too long. When light is insufficient, if the temperature is greater than 23°C for more than 24 hours, it will cause excessive vegetative growth and loss of flower buds.

(2) Light Quantity

1. In the Netherlands

To obtain proper leaf and root development, sufficient light needs to be provided. Excessive light causes scorch marks on the leaves. Too low light (below 100 W/㎡) causes stagnated plant growth, poor quality, improper flower bud development, and poor root development. The appropriate light quantity is 2002; in summers with strong sunlight (1400 W/㎡), use 80-85% shade netting.

2. In Tropical Regions

It is necessary to maintain 80-90% shading capacity. Usually a fixed net providing 65% shade and another set of movable netting providing 65% shade are used. In areas with heavy rainstorms, plastic sheeting roofs should be used to reduce disease and reduce rainwater leaching of the medium. (Note: This paragraph addresses simple rain-shelter facilities in places such as Indonesia, and does not discuss subtropical greenhouses.)

Appropriate light quantities are as follows:

Growth stage: 5000-8000 lux

Flowering stage: 8000-15000 lux

In regions with sunlight throughout the year, the light requirement can be increased by 20%. However, attention must be paid to the refraction of light so that all orchid leaves receive uniform light. Higher relative humidity should be maintained under high light levels.

(3) Artificial Supplemental Lighting

Artificial supplemental lighting benefits leaf temperature, microclimate, and orchid seedling growth, and can reduce plant losses. Its characteristics are as follows:

Plug seedling growth: promotes rapid growth and reduces orchid plant losses;

Growth stage: promotes rapid growth and better development;

Flowering stage: helps flower stalk and flower bud development, reduces flower bud losses, and increases quality.

In winter, Phalaenopsis requires at least 12-14 hours and 3500-4000 lux of light, so artificial light sources are suitable. Using excessive light sources on sunny days will cause the leaves to turn red, thereby causing growth stagnation. In addition, orchid plants should maintain a dark period of at least 8 hours to ensure carbon dioxide absorption.

(4) Carbon Dioxide Concentration

Phalaenopsis is a CAM (Crassulacean acid metabolism) plant and absorbs carbon dioxide at night. The appropriate concentration is 600-800 ppm.

(5) Relative Humidity

Due to its physiological structure, Phalaenopsis can protect itself from stress effects under low humidity conditions, but in overly wet environments, high temperature and high humidity often accompany disease. The most suitable relative humidity range is 60%-80% RH. Under high-temperature and low-humidity conditions, relative humidity needs to be increased. Applicable equipment systems include high-pressure spraying equipment above the greenhouse to increase mist particles, watering below the planting beds, and the use of water walls and fans. However, crops must be prevented from becoming wet. Another added benefit of humidification is lowering the temperature.

(6) Other Information

When crops grow in a high relative humidity environment, daytime temperature and sunlight can both be increased, keeping the greenhouse interior at a constant temperature, and good air circulation must be maintained. Therefore, the greenhouse height is best 3-4 meters above the plants.

In order to analyze the problems faced by plant growth, measurement and recording of the microclimate are very important. For example, light quantity, temperature, and relative humidity all need to be measured and recorded. Measurement operations can use microcomputers or handheld sensors, and daily maximum/minimum values all need to be measured.

Cultivation Methods

(1) Orchid cultivation media must meet the following requirements:

It can allow the orchid root system to bear the weight of the orchid itself and maintain normal plant shape, but it must not be too heavy; lightweight is preferred.

Good drainage performance and water retention performance. Orchid roots need water, but water must also drain away quickly, because water accumulation causes root rot; on the other hand, moisture must be retained so it does not dry out too quickly.

Good aeration performance.

Contains a considerable amount of mineral nutrients.

Can remain non-decayed for 1-2 years.

Inexpensive, suitable, easy to obtain, and convenient to handle.

(2) The following media are suitable for cultivating orchids:

Tree fern fiber, made by processing and crushing the aerial roots of tree ferns; peat moss; sphagnum moss;

Osmunda fiber: one type is black, wire-like, hard root; the other is brown, softer root ; not easily decayed, contains small amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and trace elements, drains and aerates while retaining water, and is durable. pH 5;

Bark: Douglas fir and white fir bark chunks, soft, aerating, and water-retentive, pH 4-6;

Coconut coir and coconut husk fiber;

Others: palm fiber, dried leaves, trunks, and branches, dried cow dung, pumice, clay chunks, broken brick pieces, tiles, vermiculite, plastic balls, etc. can all be used to grow orchids. The medium used for Phalaenopsis potted flowers sold on the market is generally sphagnum moss.[7]

Management Before and After Flowering

After Phalaenopsis flower buds form, more phosphorus should be applied until flowering. When the flower stem is pushed upward and tends to lean to one side, a support should be set up and tied so the flower stalk does not break. Afterward, as the flower stalk gradually grows longer and taller, tying should also proceed gradually, with the support slightly curved to enhance beauty. Stop fertilizing during the flowering period and before new leaves grow. After the flowers fade, for robust orchid plants with more than 5 leaves, the lower 3-4 nodes of the stem can be left and cut back, and it may be hoped that they will bloom again on the remaining flower stem later; watering should not be too frequent, and water only after it dries out.

Key Care Points

Cultivation Medium: Common cultivation media for Phalaenopsis are mainly sphagnum moss and moss.

1. Temperature: When growing Phalaenopsis at home, temperature must first be ensured. Phalaenopsis likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment; during the growth period, the minimum temperature should be kept above 15°C, and the suitable growth temperature for Phalaenopsis is 16-30°C. During autumn-winter and the transition between winter and spring, as well as when winter temperatures are low, attention should be paid to increasing warmth; generally, in rooms with heating equipment in winter, this temperature is not difficult to achieve, but note that the flowers should not be placed directly on the radiator or too close to it. When summer temperatures are relatively high, cooling is needed, and attention should be paid to ventilation; if the temperature is above 32°C, Phalaenopsis usually enters a semi-dormant state, and continuous high temperatures should be avoided. Around the Spring Festival is the peak flowering period; appropriately lowering the temperature can extend the viewing time, and during flowering the nighttime temperature is best controlled between 13-16°C, but must not be lower than 13°C.

2. Watering: Phalaenopsis originates from primitive forests, where there is more mist and higher temperatures. Phalaenopsis has no thick pseudobulbs to store nutrients; if air humidity is insufficient, the leaf surface becomes wrinkled and weak. Therefore, Phalaenopsis should be cultivated and cared for in a ventilated, high-humidity environment. The suitable air humidity for Phalaenopsis growth is 60%-80%. During the vigorous new root elongation period, water more; during the post-flowering dormant period, water less. In spring and autumn, water once every day around 5 p.m.; in summer, when plants grow vigorously, water once each at 9 a.m. and 5 p.m.; in winter, when light is weak and temperatures are low, watering once every other week is sufficient, preferably before 10 a.m. If a cold wave hits, do not water; keep it dry and resume watering after the cold wave passes. The principle of watering is to water when dry and let it dry between waterings; when the surface of the cultivation medium becomes dry, water thoroughly once, and the water temperature should be close to room temperature. When indoor air is dry, a sprayer can be used to spray directly onto the leaf surface; it is enough to see the leaf surface become moist, but note that during the flowering period, water mist must not be sprayed onto the flowers. Tap water should be stored for more than 72 hours before being used for irrigation.

3. Light: Although Phalaenopsis is relatively shade-loving, orchid plants still need to receive some light, especially before and after the flowering period. Appropriate light can promote Phalaenopsis flowering and make the flowers vivid and long-lasting. Generally, it should be placed in a spot indoors with scattered light, and direct sunlight should not be allowed.

4. Ventilation: The normal growth of Phalaenopsis requires flowing fresh air, so home-grown Phalaenopsis must have good ventilation, especially during the high-humidity period in summer. Good ventilation must be used to prevent heat stress, and it can also avoid infection by pests and diseases.

5. Nutrition: Phalaenopsis should be fertilized year-round; unless low temperatures persist for a long time, fertilization should not be stopped. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period for Phalaenopsis; stopping fertilizer easily leads to no flowers or few flowers. During spring and summer, the growth period, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once every 7-10 days; organic fertilizer is suitable, and special Phalaenopsis nutrient solution can also be applied, but do not apply it when there are flower buds, otherwise buds may easily drop early. In summer, when leaves grow (that is, after the flowering period), nitrogen fertilizer and potassium fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing. In autumn and winter, during the flower stem growth period, phosphorus fertilizer can be used, but it should be dilute, applied about once every 2-3 weeks. Fertilization time is after watering in the afternoon; after several fertilizations, use plenty of water to rinse the orchid pot and orchid plants, so as to avoid residual inorganic salts harming the roots.

6. Post-Flowering Management: The flowering period is generally around the Spring Festival, and the viewing period can last as long as 2-3 months. When the flowers wither, the faded flowers must be cut off as early as possible, as this can reduce nutrient consumption. If the flower stem is cut at the 4th-5th node from the base, it can bloom again after 2-3 months. However, this consumes too many plant nutrients and is not conducive to growth the following year. If you want it to produce good flowers again the next year, it is best to cut the flower stem from the base. When the medium ages, it should be replaced in a timely manner, otherwise aeration worsens, causing root rot and weakening plant growth or even death. Generally, repotting in May, when new leaves grow out, is suitable.

Key Points to Note

1. Overwatering: Friends who grow Phalaenopsis always worry that the Phalaenopsis lacks water, and regardless of whether the cultivation medium is dry, they water every day, causing severe root rot.

2. Temperature Too Low: Usually, flowering Phalaenopsis plants are mostly marketed in early spring, and after being bought home they are generally placed in places such as the living room for viewing. Although the daytime temperature in these places is sufficient, the nighttime temperature is somewhat on the low side. On the other hand, professionally cultivated orchids are mostly in well-equipped greenhouses; by comparison, the temperature and humidity at home are somewhat insufficient, so the plants tend to weaken day by day. Therefore, sometimes no matter how well they are cared for, the orchids still fail to bloom.

3. Excessive Fertilization: Applying fertilizer whenever available, without attention to concentration, thinking that applying fertilizer will make them grow faster. One should know that Phalaenopsis should be given light fertilizer, applied in small amounts and frequently. Remember that "tonic feeding" must not be excessive, otherwise it will be counterproductive.

4. Small Plant in a Large Pot: Thinking that using a large pot can give the Phalaenopsis a spacious environment and sufficient materials. In fact, after using a large pot, the sphagnum moss is not easy to dry. One should know that Phalaenopsis likes aeration, and when air flows freely it thrives.

5. Dry Bud Enclosure: Most Phalaenopsis are forced into flowering; after leaving the base, once the environment changes, the problem of dry buds easily appears. At this time, do not think it is dry and do not water more; instead, increase indoor humidity and control indoor temperature; the temperature must not be too high. When buying flowers, try to choose ones with thicker petals.

Cultivation Management

It likes high temperature, high humidity, and a ventilated semi-shaded environment, and avoids waterlogging and stuffy air. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15°C. Because Phalaenopsis originates from tropical rainforest regions, it is by nature warmth-loving and cold-fearing. The suitable growth temperature is 18-30°C; in winter, below 15°C it will stop growing, and below 10°C it easily dies. If mass production is to be carried out in various places in Lingnan, cold protection facilities must be provided and protected cultivation implemented. If grown in small quantities at home, move it indoors immediately when cold weather occurs to maintain temperature and allow it to overwinter safely.

For its propagation, tissue culture is mostly used; after test-tube seedlings are cultivated and transplanted, they can bloom after about two years. For some mother plants, after the flowering period ends, the axillary buds on the flower stalk sometimes also grow and develop into plantlets; when they grow roots, they can be cut from the flower stalk for division propagation.

Medium

Because of its epiphytic nature, the planting material for its potting should not be soil, but rather sphagnum moss, pumice, tree fern shavings, charcoal pieces, etc., or the seedlings can be directly fixed onto a tree fern board (also called snake wood) to let them attach and grow on their own. This cultivation method imitates its original ecological environment. When it blooms, hanging the whole board on the wall for viewing indeed has a unique charm. Phalaenopsis has many aerial roots, and its root tips are emerald green and quite sensitive; they must be carefully protected, and the root tips must never be touched or damaged, otherwise that root will stop growing.

Temperature

Phalaenopsis belongs to the tropical high-temperature orchids; the suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. Below 15°C it enters dormancy, and below 10°C it easily dies. However, high temperatures above 35°C affect growth and make it prone to disease. Flowering requires experiencing one month of 15-18°C low temperature to promote flower bud differentiation; afterward, if low temperature continues, flower stalk emergence is slow.

Air

Phalaenopsis likes a high-humidity and ventilated environment. The air is required to constantly maintain 60%-80% humidity, and air circulation is best maintained with a gentle breeze; the pot must not accumulate too much water. If roots are surrounded by liquid water for 6-8 hours, they are very prone to rot, so aeration is the key to growing Phalaenopsis well. The medium needs to be loose and breathable so that roots grow strong. Avoid dry, hot wind. When grown in northern winter, it must not be placed on a radiator or directly facing air-conditioner airflow.

Sunlight

Under natural conditions, Phalaenopsis mostly grows epiphytically on high tree branches in tropical rainforests with shade protection. Avoid direct scorching sun, otherwise it will cause large-area leaf scorch, but it also cannot tolerate overly shady indoor conditions, which will cause slow growth and be unfavorable for nutrient storage and flowering. It is best to place it on a north- or east-facing balcony or near a windowsill so it receives scattered light; then it will grow robustly with few diseases.

Moisture

Because it has no stolons or pseudobulbs, Phalaenopsis is not drought-tolerant; and because of its epiphytic nature, Phalaenopsis also fears waterlogging and wetness. During high-temperature summer periods, keeping the material moist is sufficient; spray water to lower temperature and increase humidity (but do not let water remain in the leaf center, as it easily causes crown rot). A moist towel can also be placed beside the flower pot to increase humidity, but be sure to note: roots must not remain excessively damp and dark for a long time, especially being surrounded by liquid water for a long time makes them very prone to rot. For example, the daily watering amount in summer should be such that it can naturally air-dry the same day, alternating dry and wet; this will greatly reduce the incidence of root rot and disease. In winter, water less and only keep the material slightly moist.

Fertilization

The fertilization principle for Phalaenopsis is light fertilizer applied frequently, and never overly concentrated chemical fertilizer. A concentration about 1 time more diluted than the concentration stated on the chemical fertilizer packaging is suitable, that is, about 1500-2000 times. Special Phalaenopsis fertilizer can also be used. During the growth period, apply nitrogen and potassium fertilizer; during the flower-forcing period, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Applying once a week or once every half month is sufficient. Do not fertilize during the flowering period or dormant period, but attention should be paid to appropriately supplementing fertilizer before and after flowering.

Cultivation Techniques

Phalaenopsis is an epiphytic orchid, and cultivation requires good root aeration. The potting substrate must be loose, drain well, and be breathable; commonly used materials include moss, fern roots, bark chunks, coconut shells, or vermiculite. About 30-40 days after new plants are planted, new roots grow.

During the growth period, fertilize once every ten days; from flower bud formation to the flowering period, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Also frequently spray water on the ground and leaf surfaces to increase air humidity, which is very beneficial to stem and leaf growth. Every year in May-June, when new roots begin to grow after flowering, repot; the temperature should be 20-25°C. If the temperature is too low, new plants recover slowly and are also prone to rot. High temperatures above 32°C are unfavorable to Phalaenopsis growth, causing it to enter a semi-dormant state and affecting flower bud differentiation, resulting in no flowering. Phalaenopsis has long inflorescences and large flowers, so when potted, supports need to be set up to prevent tipping and affecting flower appearance.

The pot should be somewhat larger. Pot size is also very important: if the roots of the flower are very large, the pot should also be appropriately enlarged; if the roots are relatively small, do not use too large a pot either, because a larger pot holds more soil and easily makes the soil less permeable. When planting, orchids, camellias, rhododendrons, white magnolias, and gardenias require acidic soil (mountain soil); Phalaenopsis and clivia use leaf mold; osmanthus, sago palms, and broadleaf lady palms use 2/3 garden soil plus 1/3 coal ash, with the purpose of increasing soil permeability.

Complete Guide to Phalaenopsis Cultivation Techniques

China Landscape Network, April 17 news:Cultivation Conditions

(1) Temperature

(2) Light Quantity

1. In the Netherlands

2. In Tropical Regions

Appropriate light quantities are as follows:

Growth stage: 5000-8000 lux

Flowering stage: 8000-15000 lux

(3) Artificial Supplemental Lighting

Artificial supplemental lighting benefits leaf temperature, microclimate, and orchid seedling growth, and can reduce plant losses. Its characteristics are as follows:

Plug seedling growth: promotes rapid growth and reduces orchid plant losses;

Growth stage: promotes rapid growth and better development;

Flowering stage: helps flower stalk and flower bud development, reduces flower bud losses, and increases quality.

(4) Carbon Dioxide Concentration

Phalaenopsis is a CAM (Crassulacean acid metabolism) plant and absorbs carbon dioxide at night. The appropriate concentration is 600-800 ppm.

(5) Relative Humidity

(6) Other Information

When crops are grown in a high relative humidity environment, both daytime temperature and sunlight can be increased to keep the interior of the greenhouse at a constant temperature, and good air circulation must be maintained. Therefore, the greenhouse height should preferably be 3 to 4 m above the plants.

In order to analyze the problems faced by plant growth, measurement and recording of the microclimate are very important. For example, light levels, temperature and relative humidity all need to be measured and recorded. Measurement can be done using a microcomputer or handheld sensors, and daily maximum/minimum values need to be measured.

Cultivation methods

(1) The growing medium for Cymbidium orchids must meet the following requirements:

It must enable the orchid's root system to bear the weight of the orchid itself and maintain a normal plant shape, but it must not be too heavy; lightweight is preferred.

Good drainage and good water retention. Orchid roots need moisture, but the water must also be able to drain away quickly, because waterlogging will cause the roots to rot; on the other hand, moisture must be retained so that it does not dry out too quickly.

Good aeration.

It should contain a fair amount of mineral nutrients.

It should remain not rotting for 1 to 2 years.

Inexpensive and suitable, easy to obtain, and easy to handle.

(2) The following media are suitable for cultivating Cymbidium orchids:

Tree fern fiber, which is made by processing and crushing the aerial roots of tree ferns; peat moss; sphagnum moss;

Osmunda fiber, one type being hard, black, wire-like roots and the other being brown, softer roots ; it does not rot easily, contains small amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace elements, drains and aerates while retaining water, and is durable. pH value 5;

Bark, Douglas fir and white fir bark chunks, soft in texture, aerating and water-retaining, pH value 4 to 6;

Coconut coir and coconut husk fiber;

Others: palm fiber, dried leaves, trunks and branches, dried cow dung, pumice, clay pellets, crushed brick, tiles, vermiculite, plastic balls and so on can all be used to grow orchids. The medium used for the potted Phalaenopsis plants sold on the market is generally sphagnum moss. [7]

Management before and after flowering

After the flower buds of Phalaenopsis have formed, more phosphorus should be applied until flowering begins. When the flower stem extends upward and tends to lean to one side, a support should be set up and the stem tied so that the flower stalk does not break. After that, as the flower stalk gradually grows longer and taller, tying should also be carried out gradually, with the support slightly arched to enhance the aesthetic appeal. Fertilization is stopped during the flowering period and before new leaves grow out. After the flowers fade, for vigorous plants with more than 5 leaves, the lower 3 to 4 nodes of the stem can be left and the rest cut back, and it may be expected to bloom again on the remaining flower stem later; watering should not be too frequent, and water only after the medium has dried out completely.

Key care points

Growing medium: The common growing media for Phalaenopsis are mainly sphagnum moss and moss.

1. Temperature: When growing Phalaenopsis at home, temperature must first be ensured. Phalaenopsis likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment. During the growing period, the minimum temperature should be kept above 15°C, and the suitable growing temperature for Phalaenopsis is 16 to 30°C. In autumn and winter and at the transition from winter to spring, as well as when winter temperatures are low, attention should be paid to raising the temperature. Generally, in rooms with heating equipment in winter, this temperature is not difficult to reach, but note that the flowers should not be placed directly on the radiator or too close to it. When summer temperatures are on the high side, cooling is needed, and attention should be paid to ventilation. If the temperature is higher than 32°C, Phalaenopsis usually enters a semi-dormant state, and prolonged high temperatures should be avoided. Around the Spring Festival is the full flowering period; appropriately lowering the temperature can extend the viewing time, and at flowering the nighttime temperature is best kept between 13 and 16°C, but must not be lower than 13°C.

2. Watering: Phalaenopsis originates from primitive forests, where there is more mist and higher temperatures. Phalaenopsis does not have thick, large pseudobulbs to store nutrients, so if the air humidity is insufficient, the leaf surface becomes wrinkled and weak. Therefore, Phalaenopsis should be cultivated and cared for in a ventilated, high-humidity environment. The suitable growing air humidity for Phalaenopsis is 60% to 80%. During the vigorous elongation period of new roots, Phalaenopsis should be watered more, and during the dormant period after flowering it should be watered less. In spring and autumn, water once every day around 5 p.m.; in summer, when the plant grows vigorously, water once each at 9 a.m. and 5 p.m.; in winter, when light is weak and temperatures are low, watering once every other week is sufficient, and it is best done before 10 a.m. If a cold wave arrives, it is not advisable to water; keep the plant dry and resume watering after the cold wave has passed. The principle of watering is to water when dry and let it dry between waterings; when the surface of the growing medium becomes dry, water thoroughly once, and the water temperature should be close to room temperature. When the indoor air is dry, a sprayer can be used to spray directly onto the leaf surface, just until the leaf surface is moist, but note that during the flowering period water mist must not be sprayed onto the flowers. Tap water should be stored for more than 72 hours before being used for watering.

3. Light: Although Phalaenopsis is relatively shade-loving, the plant still needs to receive some light, especially before and after flowering. Appropriate light can promote flowering in Phalaenopsis and make the flowers brighter and longer-lasting. Generally, it should be placed in a spot indoors with diffused light, and direct sunlight should not be allowed.

4. Ventilation: The normal growth of Phalaenopsis requires flowing fresh air, so when grown at home, ventilation must be good, especially during the high-humidity period in summer. Good ventilation must be used to prevent heat stress, and it can also help avoid infection by pests and diseases.

5. Nutrition: Phalaenopsis should be fertilized all year round, and unless low temperatures persist for a long time, fertilization should not be stopped. Winter is the flower bud differentiation period for Phalaenopsis, and stopping fertilization can easily lead to no flowers or few flowers. Spring and summer are the growing period, when a dilute liquid fertilizer can be applied once every 7 to 10 days; organic fertilizer is preferable, and a special nutrient solution for Phalaenopsis can also be used, but it should not be applied when there are flower buds, otherwise the buds are likely to drop early. In summer, when leaves grow (that is, after the flowering period), nitrogen fertilizer and potassium fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing. In autumn and winter, during the flower stem growth period, phosphorus fertilizer can be used, but it should be dilute, applied about once every 2 to 3 weeks. Fertilization should be done after watering in the afternoon, and after several fertilizations, a large amount of water should be used to flush the orchid pot and plant, so as to prevent residual inorganic salts from harming the roots.

6. Management after flowering: The flowering period is generally around the Spring Festival, and the viewing period can last as long as 2 to 3 months. When the flowers wither, the faded flowers must be cut off as early as possible, as this can reduce nutrient consumption. If the flower stem is cut at the 4th to 5th node from the base, it can bloom again after 2 to 3 months. However, this consumes too much of the plant's nutrients and is not conducive to growth in the coming year. If you want it to produce good flowers again the next year, it is best to cut the flower stem from the base. When the medium ages, it should be replaced in a timely manner, otherwise aeration will deteriorate, causing root rot and weakening the plant or even killing it. Generally, repotting in May, when new leaves grow out, is preferable.

Points to note

1. Watering too frequently: Friends who grow Phalaenopsis always worry that the plant lacks water and water it every day regardless of whether the growing medium is dry, causing severe root rot.

2. Temperature too low: Usually, flowering Phalaenopsis plants are mostly marketed in early spring, and after being bought and taken home they are generally placed in places such as the living room for viewing. Although the daytime temperature in these places is sufficient, the nighttime temperature is somewhat on the low side. On the other hand, professionally cultivated orchids are mostly kept in well-equipped greenhouses; by comparison, the temperature and humidity at home are somewhat insufficient, so the plant's vigor tends to weaken day by day. Therefore, sometimes no matter how well the plant is cared for, the orchid still does not bloom.

3. Overfertilization: Applying fertilizer whenever there is fertilizer, and not paying attention to concentration, thinking that applying fertilizer will make it grow faster. You should know that Phalaenopsis should be given dilute fertilizer, and small amounts should be applied more often. Remember that "tonic feeding" must not be excessive, otherwise it will have the opposite effect.

4. Planting a small plant in a large pot: Thinking that using a large pot can give Phalaenopsis a more spacious environment and sufficient medium. In fact, after using a large pot, the sphagnum moss does not dry easily. You should know that Phalaenopsis likes aeration, and when air flows freely it thrives.

5. Dry buds on flowers: Most Phalaenopsis are forced into bloom, and after leaving the production base, once the environment changes, dry buds easily appear. At this time, do not assume it is due to dryness and do not water more; instead, increase indoor humidity and control indoor temperature, and the temperature must not be too high. When buying flowers, try to choose those with thicker petals.

Cultivation management

It likes a high-temperature, high-humidity, ventilated, semi-shaded environment, and dislikes waterlogging and stuffy air. The overwintering temperature should not be lower than 15 degrees. Because Phalaenopsis originated in tropical rainforest regions, it is naturally warmth-loving and cold-averse. The suitable growing temperature is 18 to 30°C; in winter, growth stops below 15C, and it easily dies below 10°C. For mass production in various places in Lingnan, cold protection facilities are necessary, and protected cultivation must be carried out. If only a small number are grown at home, moving them indoors immediately when cold weather arrives to maintain temperature will allow them to overwinter safely.

For its propagation, cell tissue culture is mostly used. After seedlings are grown in test tubes and transplanted, they can generally bloom after about two years. For some mother plants, after the flowering period ends, the axillary buds on the flower stalk sometimes also grow and develop into plantlets; when they grow roots, they can be cut from the flower stalk for division propagation.

Medium

Because of its epiphytic nature, the planting medium for pot cultivation should not be soil. Instead, sphagnum moss, pumice, tree fern fiber, charcoal pieces and the like should be used, or the seedlings can be fixed directly onto a tree fern board (also called snake wood) and allowed to attach and grow on their own. This cultivation method imitates its original ecological environment. When it blooms, hanging the whole board on the wall for viewing truly has a special charm. Phalaenopsis has many aerial roots, and the root tips are emerald green and quite sensitive, so they must be carefully protected. The root tips must never be touched or damaged, otherwise that root will stop growing.

Temperature

Phalaenopsis is a tropical high-temperature orchid, and the suitable growing temperature is 20 to 30°C. Below 15 degrees it enters dormancy, and below 10°C it easily dies. However, high temperatures above 35°C affect growth and make it prone to disease. Flowering requires experiencing one month of 15 to 18°C low temperatures to induce flower bud differentiation; if low temperatures continue after that, flower stalk sprouting is delayed.

Air

Phalaenopsis likes an environment with high air humidity and ventilation. The air should be kept at a humidity of 60% to 80% at all times, and air circulation should be maintained, preferably with a gentle breeze. There should not be too much water accumulated in the pot. If the roots are surrounded by liquid water for 6 to 8 hours, they are very likely to rot. Therefore, aeration is the key to growing Phalaenopsis well, and the medium needs to be loose and breathable so that the roots grow strong and healthy. Dry, hot winds should be avoided. When growing it in winter in the north, it must not be placed on a radiator or directly facing air-conditioner airflow.

Sunlight

Under natural conditions, Phalaenopsis is mostly epiphytic on the trunks and branches of tall trees in tropical rainforests, sheltered by tree shade. Direct scorching sunlight should be avoided, otherwise it will cause large-area leaf scorch, but it also cannot tolerate indoor conditions that are too shady, which will lead to slow growth and be unfavorable for nutrient storage and flowering. It is best to place it on a north- or east-facing balcony or beside a windowsill so that it receives diffused light; then it will grow strongly with few diseases.

Moisture

Because it has no stolons and no pseudobulbs, Phalaenopsis is not drought-tolerant, and because of its epiphytic nature Phalaenopsis also fears waterlogging and wetness. During high-temperature periods in summer, it is enough to keep the medium moist. A sprayer can be used to sprinkle water to lower the temperature and increase humidity (but water must not be left in the leaf center, as it easily causes crown rot). A moist towel can also be placed beside the flower pot to increase humidity, but be sure to note: the roots must not remain excessively damp and dark for a long time, especially being surrounded by liquid water for a long time, which very easily causes rot. For example, the amount of water used for daily watering in summer should be such that it can dry naturally by the end of the day, alternating between dry and moist; this will greatly reduce the incidence of root rot and disease. In winter, water less and only keep the medium slightly moist.

Fertilization

The fertilization principle for Phalaenopsis is dilute fertilizer applied frequently, and never use overly concentrated chemical fertilizer. A suitable concentration is about 1 time further diluted than the concentration stated on the chemical fertilizer packaging, that is, around 1500 to 2000 times. Special Phalaenopsis fertilizer can also be used. During the growing period, apply nitrogen and potassium fertilizer ; during the flowering induction period, apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Applying once a week or once every half month is sufficient. Do not fertilize during the flowering period or the dormant period, but attention should be paid to appropriately supplementing fertilizer before and after flowering.

Cultivation techniques

Phalaenopsis is an epiphytic orchid, and cultivation requires good aeration at the roots. The potting medium must be loose, well-draining and breathable, commonly using moss, fern roots, bark chunks, coconut husk or vermiculite, etc. After a new plant is potted, it takes about 3O to 40 days to grow new roots.

During the growing period, fertilize once every ten days; from flower bud formation to the flowering period, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Also frequently spray water on the ground and on the leaf surface to raise air humidity, which is very beneficial to stem and leaf growth. Repot each year in May to June when new roots begin to grow after flowering; the temperature should be 20 to 25°C. If the temperature is too low, new plants recover slowly and are also prone to rot. High temperatures above 32°C are unfavorable to the growth of Phalaenopsis, causing it to enter a semi-dormant state, affecting flower bud differentiation, with the result that it does not bloom. Phalaenopsis has long inflorescences and large flowers, so when potted it needs a support to prevent it from toppling and affecting the appearance of the flowers.

The flower pot should be somewhat larger. The size of the flower pot is also very important. If the root system of the plant is very large, the flower pot should also be appropriately enlarged; if the root system is small, do not use too large a flower pot either. If the flower pot is relatively large, it will contain more soil, which easily makes the soil permeability poorer. When planting, orchids, camellias, azaleas, Michelia alba, gardenias and the like require acidic soil (mountain soil); Phalaenopsis and clivia use leaf mold; osmanthus, sago palm, palm bamboo and the like use 2/3 garden soil plus 1/3 coal briquette ash, the purpose being to increase soil permeability.

Efficient Cultivation Techniques and Daily Care Management of Phalaenopsis in Northern China

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