Daily care and management methods and precautions for ginkgo

Recently, quite a few nursery growers have been asking the editor what should be noted when planting ginkgo? Most people know that ginkgo is a "living fossil" plant unique to China. It can grow in areas south of Shenyang and north of Guangzhou.

What should be noted when planting ginkgo?

The bark of ginkgo is grayish brown, with deep vertical fissures, and the large branches are nearly whorled. The branches are divided into long shoots and short shoots. One-year-old long shoots are light brownish yellow. Short shoots are densely covered with leaf scars. The leaf shape is unique, fan-shaped, with a long petiole, and the veins are dichotomous. The leaf tip often has 2 lobes, and the leaf base is wedge-shaped. On long shoots the leaves are alternate, while on short shoots the leaves are clustered at the tip of the shoot. In autumn the leaves turn golden yellow and are very beautiful. The flowering period is April to May. The seeds mature in September to October. The drupe is elliptical, pale yellow or orange-yellow when ripe, covered with a white powder. The outer seed coat is fleshy and has an unusual odor. The middle seed coat is white and bony, hence the name white fruit.

Ginkgo likes light, and young trees are slightly shade-tolerant. It has strong cold resistance and can also adapt to the hot and humid climate of Jiangnan, but its tolerance to dry heat is relatively poor. When the heat radiation from the ground is strong, the leaves on the lower part of the crown easily develop scorched edges. Ginkgo likes deep, well-drained soil and is not tolerant of waterlogging. It grows poorly in low-lying wet land.

When pruning ginkgo, note that large side branches must not be cut back short, because the terminal buds of long shoots have weak sprouting ability and it is very difficult to form a new extension shoot after short cutting. However, the clustered leaves on short shoots sprout first, forming the "chicken claw branches" phenomenon at the front end of the side branch, and the shape after leaf fall is very unattractive. Therefore, when pruning, large side branches with reasonable distribution should be selected and retained. For overly dense branches, use the method of thinning from the base and cut them off all at once.

Ginkgo trees can be made into vigorous and quaint stump bonsai by grafting new branches onto old roots, which is uniquely distinctive.

Ginkgo is a very ideal tree species for courtyard beautification. Its leaves are dense, the leaf shape is elegant, the autumn color is golden yellow, it has few pests and diseases, an extremely long lifespan, and excellent ornamental effect. However, male plants should be chosen for courtyard beautification to avoid the fruit drop of female plants producing an unusual odor and affecting sanitation.

The characteristics of male plants are: the angle between the main branch and the trunk is small, the crown is somewhat narrow, and it forms relatively late; the leaf lobes are relatively deep, often extending beyond the middle of the leaf; the autumn leaf color change period is relatively late, and leaf fall is relatively late; the short shoots bearing male flowers are relatively long, about 4 cm.

The characteristics of female plants are: the angle between the main branch and the trunk is relatively large, the crown is broad and large, the top is relatively flat, and it forms relatively early; the leaf lobes are relatively shallow, not reaching the middle of the leaf; the autumn leaf color change period and the leaf drop period are both relatively early; the short shoots bearing female flowers are relatively short, about 2 cm.

That is all for today's content. Farmer friends who have planted ginkgo can refer to it more. For more wonderful content, stay tuned to Huinong Network!

Key points and precautions for the care and management of home bonsai

How to grow bonsai well at home and its care and management

I. Analysis of the placement environment:

(1) First, determine what kind of bonsai to grow according to the objective environmental conditions of the home? Villas or courtyards can grow large, medium, and small bonsai. Due to the improvement of living standards and changes in today's living environment, most people grow bonsai on balconies of buildings. Personally, I suggest that small or miniature bonsai are better for balcony growing. For indoor balcony bonsai growing, one should fully understand and make use of the environmental characteristics of the balcony placement environment:

① The orientation of balconies and the length of sunlight differ greatly. Generally, south-facing balconies are better for growing bonsai, with strong sunlight and long light exposure.

East-facing or west-facing balconies only have direct sunlight in the morning or afternoon, and sunlight can shine for at most 3 to 4 hours a day.

However, west-facing balconies have strong afternoon sun in summer, so summer shading and ventilation must be done well (commonly known as the western mountain sun). North-facing balconies have no direct sunlight all day (it is recommended to grow some shade-loving bonsai).

② The temperature around the balcony differs greatly from the temperature at ground level. Because the cement or tile floor and walls of the balcony easily absorb the radiant heat of the sun, the daytime temperature is higher than the ground temperature (summer shading and ventilation work must be done in time). When the temperature drops at night, the cement or tile floor and walls of the balcony easily release heat again. According to tests, at this time the temperature is more than 2°C higher than at ground level.

③ The air around the balcony is relatively dry. High-altitude winds are strong, so the air is inevitably drier than at ground level. Balconies with different orientations differ in light, temperature, and humidity, and the differences are great, especially the difference in sunlight duration. We should choose appropriate bonsai plants for growing according to the specific conditions of our own balcony.

1. If sunlight is sufficient: it is recommended to choose sun-loving and flowering/fruiting bonsai, such as Scotch broom, hawthorn, Chinese juniper, boxwood, fruiting mulberry, ginkgo, golden larch, Chinese elm, pomegranate, tamarisk, Fujian tea, orange jasmine, etc.;

2. If light is insufficient: it is recommended to choose plant bonsai with a certain degree of shade tolerance, such as serissa, Chinese wolfberry, banana shrub, five-needle pine, trident maple, Buddhist pine, broadleaf lady palm, star jasmine, heavenly bamboo, Chinese yew, Japanese bush cherry, Buddhist pine, Chinese toon, and creeping juniper, etc.

3. If the family home has no balcony or there is basically no direct light in the living room: the living environment is relatively poor. When it is difficult to grow tree bonsai, the focus should be placed on making and caring for landscape bonsai. This is because the moss on landscape bonsai can grow as long as there is scattered light. It changes little across spring, summer, autumn, and winter, and has a poetic and picturesque quality. Displayed indoors, it also has a very good ornamental effect.

4. If the family's economic conditions are good and there is a courtyard, a large open-air balcony, or a detached house with a very spacious yard, a small greenhouse can be built on site according to the situation. In this case, bonsai plants that like light, like shade, and like semi-shade can all be grown.

(2) It is necessary to grow suitable bonsai according to one's own specific circumstances. The above briefly introduced the relationship between environmental conditions and the selection of bonsai plants. The final decision on what kind of bonsai to grow must also be based on comprehensive consideration of personal preference, personal cultivation and management skill level, and whether one has spare time for careful care and management. Bonsai materials should be selected according to personal preference and management conditions. Because everyone's hobbies and aesthetic concepts differ, not everyone will have the same evaluation of a certain plant, so the selection of bonsai plants varies from person to person. When selecting bonsai plants, one should consider whether the habits of the selected plant are suitable for the existing environment, and also consider one's own level of cultivation and management skill:

If a bonsai hobbyist has relatively high shaping skills and rich experience in care and management, then bonsai materials with relatively high cultivation and management technical requirements can be selected, such as black pine, five-needle pine, Chinese juniper, boxwood, plum blossom, etc.;

If one's management level is average, bonsai materials that are extensively managed and highly adaptable should be selected, such as Chinese wolfberry, Scotch broom, serissa, winter jasmine, thorny olive, tamarisk, Chinese hackberry, elm, etc.

For friends who are just starting miniature bonsai and have no foundation at all, it is recommended to grow some miniature bonsai that are easy to keep alive, such as pomegranate, Scotch broom, serissa, winter jasmine, elm, rue, etc.

II. Sources of bonsai and key factors for growing miniature bonsai well:

1. Bonsai generally can be purchased or collected from the wild. It is recommended that beginners buy some semi-finished products, which are more suitable. Of course, if you have money and want to be willful, you can buy finished products or fine products (for purchasing finished products, it is recommended to start selection from the following: one root, two trunks, three branches, four crown, which determine the appearance of miniature bonsai, and observe the health of the trunk, branches, and leaf surface). Because semi-finished products have already been cared for and managed for a period and basically have shape and have settled into the pot, (after purchase, learn about their habits online according to the bonsai name) they are not easy to kill, and you can adjust the shape according to your own preferences on the original styling. In the short term, you can see the bonsai extend branches, spread leaves, bloom, and bear fruit, increasing the fun, sense of achievement, and confidence of beginners in bonsai.

2. In caring for and managing miniature bonsai, it is necessary not only to adjust their shape in time but also to promote normal growth. Because miniature bonsai have small pots and little soil, they truly test the skill level of bonsai growers in care and management. For example, in the heat of summer, they must be sprayed and watered 2 to 3 times a day so that the plant's branches and leaves do not wilt. If an individual does not have much spare time and cannot manage them carefully, it is very easy to cause the plant to dry up and die. The solution is to choose tree species with strong adaptability and appropriately choose deeper pots, sand troughs, or large purple clay pots for double-pot cultivation.

Watering takes three years to master. Watering is key to doing bonsai well and is one of the most important and most frequent measures in bonsai care and management. When a tree stump is planted in a pot, whether it is a deep pot or a shallow pot, the soil is always limited, and the water it contains is also limited. If water is not added for a long time, the tree stump will wither due to lack of water. Therefore, it is necessary to observe in time and water according to the dryness and wetness of the soil to maintain soil moisture. Of course, watering must not be excessive either. If watering is excessive and the pot soil remains wet for a long time, it is easy to cause root oxygen deficiency and rot; at the same time, the amount of watering also depends on the specific tree species, seasonal changes, and whether the weather is cold or warm. Generally speaking, in summer or during drought, it is best to water once in the morning and once in the evening. In spring and autumn, water once a day or every other day. In spring, when the tree stump begins to sprout, you can also water once in the morning and once in the evening as the situation requires. During the plum rain season or on rainy days, watering is not needed, and attention should be paid to drainage. Sandy soil can be watered more, while clayey soil should be watered less. Watering can be done by spraying the leaf surface or by watering the roots. Generally, the two are combined: first spray the leaf surface, then water the roots thoroughly. Be careful not to give "half water," causing the phenomenon of a wet pot surface and dry interior. Also, leaf spraying must not be excessive, as it easily causes excessive vegetative growth of branches and leaves. The following briefly discusses the key factors for growing miniature bonsai well:

1. Water is one of the key factors:

"Frequent watering" - water and soil are inseparable; "diligence" - too much water is all for nothing.

(1) Water quality is crucial for growing bonsai well. It is recommended to use rainwater, pond water, or tap water that has been left standing. Before watering, first understand and confirm whether the water quality is suitable for watering.

(2) Water must be appropriate. A lack of water in miniature bonsai easily causes leaves to scorch yellow and affects plant growth. Severe water shortage causes the miniature bonsai plant to dry up and die, but too much watering easily causes root rot, so watering must be appropriate ["too much watering" generally refers to: when the pot soil is not dry, watering continuously for several days or multiple times a day. Under normal circumstances, the leading cause of killing miniature bonsai is: drowning by too much water]. If you want to care for miniature bonsai well, I personally think the first step is to look up its habits according to the miniature bonsai variety name, first keep it alive, then shape it; the premise is to ensure the miniature bonsai stays alive, and the premise for the miniature bonsai staying alive is to master the "six observations" and "one principle" of watering miniature bonsai.

First, observe the plant's habits.

Second, observe the pot used for the plant.

Third, observe the soil used for the bonsai.

Fourth, observe the plant's leaves.

Fifth, observe the growing season.

Sixth, observe the weather of the day.

One principle: [Water thoroughly when dry, do not water when not dry].

Articles about watering miniature bonsai have been published before, so I will not elaborate further here. Bonsai friends can refer in detail to the article "Miniature Bonsai Watering, How to Water? When to Water? And Precautions" on the China Miniature Bonsai official account.

Once fellow bonsai enthusiasts master the above basic principles of watering, then try, observe, experience, and summarize with care, I believe they will certainly be able to grow miniature bonsai well, enjoy watching miniature bonsai extend branches and spread leaves, bloom and bear fruit, cultivate their temperament, and at the same time harvest the joy of success.

2. One of the key leading factors: pot soil:

If the pot soil is mixed well, the miniature bonsai grows well.

Water and soil are the source of life for all things. Soil plays a leading role in the growth of miniature bonsai. According to different miniature bonsai varieties, it is recommended to use different soils for care (the pH value of the soil, commonly known as the acidity and alkalinity of the pot soil). As the saying goes, after buying a miniature bonsai, do not blindly care for and manage it first. First consult relevant materials and fully understand its habits before you can grow the miniature bonsai well. There have also been articles introducing this in detail before, so I will not elaborate further here. Bonsai friends, please refer in detail to the official account: zgwxpjw "Benefits of Repotting and Changing Soil and Precautions for Repotting Miniature Bonsai."

3. One of the key leading factors: placement environment:

Whether the placement environment is good or poor affects whether the plant quality is good or poor. Placement environment refers to: placement location, ventilation, light, humidity, protection, etc. The placement environment also plays one of the leading factors for miniature bonsai. A good environment is more conducive to the growth of miniature bonsai. Miniature bonsai are often displayed indoors. If they do not see sunlight for a long time, it easily leads to poor growth and development or plant disease. It is recommended to give appropriate light. Therefore, in the spring and summer growing seasons, it is recommended that the time placed indoors generally not exceed one week. At other times, it is better to place them outdoors under semi-shade environmental conditions for care and appropriately rotate the light-facing side of the miniature bonsai plant.

4. One of the leading factors: fertilizer:

With little fertilizer, the color is pale and lusterless; with too much fertilizer, the plant suffers.

Fertilizer must be appropriate. Excessive fertilization can cause excessive growth of small branches, and in severe cases can also affect the growth of the miniature bonsai plant. If it is not flushed with water or the soil is not changed in time, it can likewise cause the death of the miniature bonsai plant. Fertilization should be done appropriately according to the season and different plants. It is recommended to "apply thin fertilizer frequently." If there is a severe lack of fertilizer, the leaves of the miniature bonsai will be poor, pale, and lusterless. Over time, although the miniature bonsai may not die, the plant will show abnormal symptoms and poor appearance.

5. One of the leading factors: pruning:

Pruning out of season and failing to treat the wound after pruning leads to the death of the miniature bonsai. Prune and remove buds in time. Newly grown long branches should be cut short in time to maintain an appropriate proportion with the trunk; repot once every 1 to 2 years. For deciduous types, do it before germination in early spring; for evergreen types, do it after germination in spring or when it is cool in autumn; for miniature crowns, fewer branch clusters should be retained so as to reveal as much as possible the elegance of the trunk, and the retained branch clusters should be appropriately shortened to make them proportional to the trunk.

6. One of the leading factors: pest and disease control:

If pest and disease control is not timely, in mild cases it affects appearance, and in severe cases it leads to the death of the miniature bonsai. Control pests and diseases in time. When various leaf spot diseases, aphids, red spiders, scale insects, and other pests and diseases are found, apply the right remedy and immediately remove them manually or spray for control.

7. One of the leading factors: daily management:

Details absolutely determine success or failure. Observe frequently, control promptly, and summarize more. Such as summer shading, watering time, water treatment, objects placed under the pot, spraying frequency, sand trough care, etc.; for example: to prevent leaves from turning yellow and falling off (because miniature bonsai have small pots and little soil), in summer water is often in short supply, so leaf scorching and falling off easily occur. To avoid leaf yellowing and falling off, in addition to leaving a rim when potting and frequently paying attention to watering and spraying in midsummer, if care conditions permit, they can be placed in sand troughs or in large pots on indoor balconies for care. If care conditions do not permit, the method to water the miniature bonsai thoroughly is: place the miniature bonsai in a household basin, with the water level higher than the rim of the miniature bonsai pot [after the bubbling stops, take it out after more than ten seconds, or place a brick in a shallow water pool, add water until it just submerges the brick surface, then place the small bonsai on the brick to grow].

Key points for the daily care and management of tree stump bonsai

Tree stump bonsai is mainly based on flowering trees and shrubs. The quality of a tree stump does not lie in whether the selected tree species is precious, nor in the size of the material used, but in whether its natural form has the possibility of being developed, and in the artistic conception and appeal contained in the creator's shaping. Tree stump bonsai is the epitome of old stumps from mountains and wilds, and one should first learn from nature. The ancient cypress with gnarled branches stretching across the sky, poised like a swimming dragon, and a twisted trunk; the vigorous pine with large branches extending sideways, hanging upside down over a cliff, and branches and leaves like clouds; the heavenly bamboo with soft branches spreading out, gorgeous flowers and fruits, and elegant and refined bearing, are all excellent models for making stump bonsai.

1. Watering

Watering is one of the most important and most frequent measures in the management of tree stump bonsai. When a tree stump is planted in a pot, whether it is a deep pot or a shallow pot, the soil is always limited, and the water it contains is also limited. If water is not added for a long time, the tree stump will wither due to lack of water. Therefore, it is necessary to observe in time and water according to the dryness and wetness of the soil to maintain soil moisture. Of course, watering must not be excessive either. If watering is excessive and the pot soil remains wet for a long time, it is easy to cause root oxygen deficiency and rot; at the same time, the amount of watering also depends on the specific tree species, seasonal changes, and whether the weather is cold or warm. Generally speaking, in summer or during drought, it is best to water once in the morning and once in the evening. In spring and autumn, water once a day or every other day. In spring, when the tree stump begins to sprout, you can also water once in the morning and once in the evening as the situation requires. During the plum rain season or on rainy days, watering is not needed, and attention should be paid to drainage. Sandy soil can be watered more, while clayey soil should be watered less. Watering can be done by spraying the leaf surface or by watering the roots. Generally, the two are combined: first spray the leaf surface, then water the roots thoroughly. Be careful not to give "half water," causing the phenomenon of a wet pot surface and dry interior. Also, leaf spraying must not be excessive, as it easily causes excessive vegetative growth of branches and leaves.

2. Fertilization

The soil in the pot of a tree stump bonsai is limited, so nutrients are also limited, and attention should be paid to supplementing fertilizer. Because of its artistic characteristic of showing the large within the small, tree stump bonsai must not be fertilized too much or too frequently. One should grasp the fertilizer content and types and grasp the fertilization season. The three major elements of plant growth nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizers. Nitrogen fertilizer can promote the growth of branches and leaves of the tree stump; phosphorus fertilizer can promote the formation of its flowers and fruits; potassium fertilizer can promote the growth of the stem and roots. Therefore, the selection of fertilizer should be determined according to the type of tree stump and its growth state.

If you need the tree stump to have luxuriant branches and leaves, you can apply more nitrogen fertilizer; if you need the tree stump to produce more flowers and fruits, you can increase the phosphorus fertilizer content; if you need the roots and trunk to be thick and well developed, you can apply more potassium fertilizer. Fertilization methods are generally divided into slow-release fertilization and quick-acting fertilization. Slow-release fertilization generally involves crushing and decomposing organic fertilizer, mixing it into the soil in a certain proportion, and when changing soil, mixing it into the pot to let it slowly provide nutrients; quick-acting fertilization involves diluting organic fertilizer or chemical fertilizer and applying it according to the seasonal growth needs of the tree stump. However, note that it must not be too concentrated. Newly planted tree stumps are not suitable for this type of fertilization. Fertilizing on rainy days causes the fertilizer effect to leach away, and the effect is poor.

3. Prevention and control of pests and diseases

Diseases appearing on branches and trunks: manifested as rot of the phloem and cambium of the branches and trunks, stem rot and cankers on the branches and trunks, surface rot of the branches and trunks, decay of the trunk core, and spots on the branches. Usually Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed, followed by lime sulfur mixture, and the rotten parts should be scraped off, etc.

Leaf diseases: leaf diseases usually show symptoms such as yellow-brown or black spots, curled leaves, withering, and early leaf fall. They may be chlorosis, leaf spot disease, sooty mold, powdery mildew, etc. For leaf spot disease, remove the diseased leaves and spray Bordeaux mixture; for chlorosis, spray the leaf surface with a 0.1 to 0.2 ferrous sulfate solution; for powdery mildew, spray with a 0.3 to 0.5 degree Baumé lime sulfur mixture.

Root diseases: when the roots of tree stump bonsai age, they are prone to root rot or root nodule disease caused by various bacteria and fungi. Attention should be paid to disinfecting the pot soil and controlling the amount of watering.

Scale insect control: scale insects are widespread and diverse. They are pests that suck the sap of tree stumps. After a tree stump is harmed by them, it easily develops sooty mold, showing poor growth, yellowing and withering of branches and leaves, and early leaf fall. The control method is, in addition to manual brushing to kill them, spraying with a 1000 to 1500 times solution of 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate, or a 1000 to 1500 times solution of 80% dichlorvos.

Red spider control: red spiders harm leaves by sucking leaf sap. After pest damage, the leaves appear gray-spotted and cause yellowing, withering, and falling off. The control method is spraying with a 1500 to 2000 times solution of 40% dimethoate emulsion or a 1000 times solution of 50% phosfolan wettable powder.

Aphid control: aphids are diverse in species and widespread in damage. Affected tree stumps generally have curled and drooping leaves, and in severe cases the leaf surface becomes blackened, withered, and falls off. Control method: generally spray with a 2000 to 3000 times aqueous solution of 40% dimethoate, once a week. Or spray with a 2.5% 800 to 1200 times aqueous solution of derris.

Pruning: bonsai trees are still constantly growing. If allowed to grow naturally without suppression, it will inevitably affect the tree's posture and shape and lose its artistic value. Therefore, timely pruning is necessary: cut long branches short and thin dense branches, so as to maintain a beautiful tree posture and appropriate proportions.

Pinching: to suppress the height growth of tree bonsai and promote the development of side branches spreading flat, the tender tips of the branch ends can be pinched off.

Bud removal: when many adventitious buds grow from the base of the trunk or on the trunk of a tree bonsai, the buds should be removed at any time to avoid the sprouting of forked branches and affecting the beauty of the tree shape.

Leaf removal: for foliage tree bonsai, the ornamental period is often the period when new leaves sprout. For example, the new leaves of maples, pomegranates, etc. are red. Through leaf removal treatment, the tree can send out new leaves several times a year, bright and pleasing to the eye, improving its ornamental effect.

Branch pruning: tree bonsai often grow many new branches. To maintain their beautiful shape, attention must often be paid to branch pruning. The pruning method should be determined according to the tree shape. For example, for a cloud-layer shape, the branches should be pruned into a flat form. Generally, dead branches, parallel branches, crossed branches, etc. that hinder beauty should all be cut off in time.

Root pruning: when repotting, combine it with root pruning. Roots that are too dense or too long should be pruned. This can be considered according to the following situations. If the tree's new roots are poorly developed and the root system has not densely filled the bottom of the soil ball, then the original pot can still be used for repotting, and root pruning is not needed. For tree species with well-developed root systems and fibrous roots densely covering the bottom of the soil ball, a slightly larger pot should be used, the dense root system should be thinned, the old roots removed, and a few new roots retained for repotting. For some old stump bonsai, when repotting, the roots can be appropriately raised to increase their ornamental value. Also prune away old roots and part of the root ends, and cultivate with loose, fertile soil to promote new root growth.

Repotting and changing soil: after bonsai trees have grown in a pot for many years, fibrous roots densely fill the bottom of the pot, making it difficult for water to penetrate and drain, and fertilizer is also not easily absorbed, which affects the normal growth of the tree. At this time, they should be repotted and the soil changed. For repotting, the original pot can be used or a pot one size larger can be used, determined according to the size of the tree. Changing the soil can improve soil aeration and water permeability, increase soil nutrients, help the bonsai tree grow robustly, and improve its ornamental effect.

The soil for repotting tree stumps is mainly leaf mold, paddy field soil, mountain soil, etc. When changing the soil, an appropriate amount of nutrients can first be added to the soil so that they ferment and volatilize in the soil to become slow-release nutrients, which can allow the tree stump to benefit slowly. As for grasping the pH of the soil, it should be determined according to the specific situation of the tree species. When repotting, generally first fix a screen or tile piece at the bottom hole of the pot, first add larger granular soil to facilitate drainage, then place the tree stump, fill in finer granular cultivation soil, insert and firm it with bamboo or wooden sticks, and determine the amount of watering according to the tree species.

The repotting of tree bonsai can be determined according to the following aspects:

① Generally, small bonsai are repotted once every 1 to 2 years, medium bonsai once every 2 to 3 years, and large bonsai once every 3 to 5 years. If it is an old tree stump bonsai, it can be repotted once every several years.

② For tree species that grow vigorously and like fertilizer, repot more frequently and at shorter intervals; for tree species that grow slowly and need less fertilizer, repot less frequently and at longer intervals. Old stump bonsai of the pine and cypress type are not suitable for frequent repotting.

③ Tree species with luxuriant branches and leaves and well-developed root systems should be repotted frequently. Repotting can be determined by the condition of root growth. When the pot soil is neither dry nor wet, turn the pot upside down, pat the bottom of the pot with your hand, and pour out the tree together with the soil and roots. Check the compaction of the soil ball and the distribution of the root system. If the soil ball is compacted and the root system densely covers the bottom of the soil ball, it indicates that repotting is necessary.

The best time for repotting is to choose the tree's dormant period, mostly in early spring or late autumn. If more of the original soil is retained, repotting can be done at any time without seasonal restrictions. If most or all of the old soil needs to be replaced, then the appropriate repotting period should be strictly selected.

4. Placement and protection

The placement of tree stump bonsai should also determine the position according to the characteristics of the tree species. Generally, it should be placed in a ventilated and light-transmitting place, with a certain amount of spatial humidity. Insufficient sunlight, poor ventilation, and no certain spatial humidity can cause the plant to turn yellow and dry, leading to the occurrence of pests and diseases, and even death. However, some tree species like shade, and some tree stumps need a bit more sunlight, so measures such as shading or light blocking should be taken. For example, some evergreen broad-leaved or non-broad-leaved tree species such as boxwood, azalea, and camellia mostly like shade, while crape myrtle, ginkgo, and crabapple like sunlight, so this should be determined according to the specific situation. Some tree stump bonsai are also cold-resistant or not cold-resistant. For non-cold-resistant tree stumps, in winter they generally also need to enter a greenhouse for maintenance and management, such as banyan, Fujian tea, etc.