Solutions to 4 common nutrient deficiency symptoms in orchid winter cultivation
When growing orchids in winter, not only is frequent watering necessary, but fertilizing is also essential
In winter orchid cultivation, besides reasonable watering, fertilizing is also an important measure in orchid care. When orchids lack different growth elements, they show corresponding deficiency symptoms. Only by clearly understanding each deficiency situation can you prescribe the right remedy.
1. Phosphorus deficiency
The phosphorus element can promote leaf growth. If the orchid plant lacks phosphorus fertilizer, the symptoms shown are slower growth rate of leaf buds, delayed root growth time, and curling at the leaf edges.
Solution: Choose potassium superphosphate extract to water the roots, watering once a week. You can also spray a certain concentration of foliar phosphorus fertilizer, once every 3~5 days. After about 3 consecutive sprays, it can basically return to a normal state.
2. Magnesium deficiency
If magnesium is lacking, the orchid leaves will show yellowing. The tips and edges of old leaves will turn yellow, and even curl.
Solution: Use a 0.5% magnesium sulfate solution to spray the leaves in the evening. Spray twice a week, and spray continuously for two weeks.
3. Potassium deficiency
If orchids lack potassium, the symptoms shown are yellowing at the leaf edges and leaf tips, generally starting from old leaves. It gradually spreads to newly grown leaves, and the color gradually deepens to brown.
Solution: You can first use a 0.5% potassium sulfate solution to water the roots and spray the leaves, or you can choose to apply plant ash.
4. Nitrogen deficiency
The nitrogen element can promote leaf growth. If lacking, the newly grown leaves will turn yellow and have poor luster.
Solution: Generally, you can choose to use potassium sulfate compound fertilizer solution to water the roots, or in the afternoon use diluted urea solution to spray the orchid leaves, spraying twice a week.
There are many things to pay attention to in winter orchid cultivation. This is determined by the plant's growth conditions in different seasons. Only by applying fertilizer in a targeted way will the orchid's growth state definitely get better and better.
Common pest and disease control for succulents
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Although succulents are easy to grow and care for, under some conditions pests and diseases can still occur. For succulents that pursue a refined style, even a little pest or disease problem will make them "flawed like beautiful jade," greatly reducing their ornamental value. And for growers, pests and diseases are undoubtedly a thorn in the eye and a thorn in the flesh, and must be eliminated quickly. Pest and disease control for succulents is relatively easy to manage, but with long-term indoor cultivation, under conditions of high temperature, dryness, and poor ventilation, there are also many "common pests and diseases" and "frequently occurring pests and diseases."
The control of succulent pests and diseases should focus on prevention.
First, the environment should be clean and tidy. Strict checks must be made on introduced succulents, and they should only be placed in the greenhouse after confirming there are no pests or diseases. Seasonal transitions are times when pests and diseases easily occur. Generally, when the weather changes "from cold to warm" and "from hot to cool" is exactly the period when pests and diseases are most likely to break out suddenly. In addition, just after summer, succulents have just passed their long dormant period and are gradually resuming growth, but their physiological functions have not fully recovered and their resistance is still at a very weak stage, so they are also easily invaded by pests and diseases. Concentrated pesticide spraying in the greenhouse during the three periods of early winter, early spring, and before the plum rain has twice the result with half the effort. In addition, disinfecting the potting soil has a very good preventive effect.
The pesticides commonly used for succulents mainly include two categories: fungicides for disease prevention and treatment (such as carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, zineb, etc.) and insecticides (such as omethoate, dicofol, malathion, fenvalerate, abamectin, etc.), which can be used according to the symptoms. The concentration of the pesticide must be strictly controlled according to the instructions, especially insecticides, as slightly stronger concentrations can cause phytotoxicity. Dioscorea and some Euphorbiaceae succulents are especially sensitive to this.
Pest and disease control
Pests: The main pests and other harmful animals that damage succulents include red spiders, scale insects, whiteflies, nematodes, woodlice, silverfish, snails, and mice.
Red spider: Red spiders mainly harm cacti, and sometimes also harm succulents in the Euphorbiaceae, Asclepiadaceae, Asteraceae, and Liliaceae families. The areas near the plant growth points and between the ribs are the parts most easily sucked by red spiders, and variegated plants are also easily damaged. After a plant is attacked by red spiders, the epidermis takes on a rust color, growth weakens, and not only is the ornamental value affected, but it also becomes less cold-resistant in winter. Because it is difficult to see with the naked eye, it is often discovered too late.
Control method: Focus on prevention. First, the cultivation site must not be too stuffy and hot. Second, pesticide should be sprayed before the high-incidence period, once every 10 days. Pesticides such as omethoate and dichlorvos can be used. For those kept sealed and warm in winter, a thorough spraying should be done before sealing.
Scale insects: They have a very wide range of damage. Those especially susceptible include Schlumbergera, Rhipsalidopsis, Astrophytum, the genera Echinocactus, Cleistocactus, Opuntia, Melocactus, and other cactus plants, as well as Haworthia succulents. A currently less-cultivated columnar species, Baiyunge, is also extremely susceptible to scale insects. Its high-incidence period is earlier than that of red spiders, and it often already reproduces in large numbers in early spring. But there is also an easy-to-control aspect to its damage, namely that it often concentrates only on a few plants. Sometimes one plant is covered with scale insects, while a neighboring plant has none at all.
Control method: Mainly increase inspections. Once discovered, scrape them off immediately, then spray with dimethoate mixed with dichlorvos. Mixing a certain amount of carbofuran into the potting soil has a preventive effect, but the efficacy lasts only 3 months.
Whiteflies: They mostly parasitize the young and tender parts of plants. Their damage range is not large, mainly harming Hylocereus undatus, Euphorbia nerifolia, Portulacaria afra, and species in the Asteraceae family. Whiteflies are oval, with a body length of 2-3 mm, covered with white powder, and mainly occur in the Shanghai area during the plum rain period. After plants are damaged, growth weakens, and large patches of unsightly black powder appear on stems and leaves.
Control method: In addition to improving environmental ventilation, you can also spray with malathion 500x solution or dimethoate mixed with dichlorvos 1000x solution. Two days after spraying, use a strong water stream to wash away the dead insects together with the black powder.
Root mealybugs: Also called root scale insects. Their appearance is similar to whiteflies, but they often crawl in from the bottom of the pot to harm the roots during the plant's dormant period when the potting soil is dry, so they are not easily discovered. When the damage is severe, not only are there white flocculent materials on the roots, but the soil near the roots also all turns white and becomes difficult for water to penetrate.
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Control method: Repot on time. When infested plants are found, cut off the roots and let them regrow. When potting, placing a small amount of paradichlorobenzene crystals at the bottom of the pot has a preventive effect. For those not easy to repot, you can pour malathion emulsion 1000x solution into the potting soil or bury carbofuran in it.
Nematodes: Their damage to succulents is mainly shown in two aspects: first, they harm newly emerged seedlings, drilling in from the seedling root crown to bite and eat the cotyledons; second, they destroy new roots and secrete stimulating substances within the new root tissue, causing abnormal division of root cells to form a lump, generally called a root knot. When the root knot ruptures, it often rots, causing the plant to die.
Control method: The potting soil must be thoroughly sterilized with steam. Using high temperature to kill nematodes is still the most effective method at present. Roots with knots must be thoroughly cut off, washed clean, dried, and then planted. The cut roots should be burned. Introduced seeds should be sown separately and observed closely; introduced seedlings should have their roots carefully checked.
Slugs and snails: Both can harm young and tender plants. When the glass of the seedling pot is not tightly covered, slugs can drill into the seedling pot and bite the upper half of the seedlings. When the air is especially humid, snails appear on the tender stems of Hylocereus undatus and in the rib valleys of spherical species, causing unsightly scars on the epidermis. Especially for large ball types such as golden barrel cactus, once bitten it is a great pity, so attention should also be paid to control.
Control method: Avoid excessive humidity in the environment, and remove weeds around the greenhouse and in the seedling beds and pots. There are currently control drugs available, which can be sprayed on the seedling beds and around the pots according to the instructions.
Woodlice: Also called damp insects, and also known as pill bugs. They hide in sand beds and potting soil, are active at night, and are even more rampant when it is humid. They gnaw on new roots and the young and tender parts of plants. When plants have wounds, they often gather to bite and cause rot, doing great harm.
Control method: In addition to placing carbofuran in seedling pots and sand beds, fenvalerate can also be used for regular spraying, which is very effective. Usually, manual capture can be combined with loosening the soil.
Mice: They like to gnaw on small thornless ball types and species such as Lithops and Conophytum. Because thornless peony types (Ariocarpus), Aztekium, Mammillaria, Lophophora, and Lithops are all currently precious species, special attention must be paid to prevention and control. Moreover, when they are active rampantly, they drill holes at the root crown of large ball types planted in the ground and hollow out the large balls from the inside.
Control method: There should be a cement isolation layer around the greenhouse and where it borders farmland. If there are ventilation windows in the lower part of the greenhouse, they should have metal mesh. If there are pipe trenches inside the greenhouse, they should be covered. Usually, some mouse-killing poison can be placed on the walkways. Some people like to put oil meal or even beans as fertilizer on ground-planted seedling beds. This practice is highly inadvisable, because when they ferment they may cause root burn, and at the same time they attract mice to cause damage.
Diseases: Compared with pests, diseases are more destructive. Diseases often occur in large areas, and once infected they often rot quickly with no time for rescue.
At present, the diseases harming succulents include the following
Leaf spot disease: The common one is black spot disease. Aloe, Opuntia, Cleistocactus, and variegated cultivars such as Gymnocalycium mihanovichii and Gymnocalycium damsii are most susceptible. It spreads very quickly under insufficient light and high humidity. Once black spots appear, they gradually expand and increase, causing the whole plant to lose ornamental value. Gymnocalycium mihanovichii and Gymnocalycium damsii will rot completely after a certain time, with no way to rescue them.
Control method: Mainly strengthen the management of introduced plants. Especially when introducing plants from southern China, it is best to spray pesticide once before shipment, or at least open the box and spray pesticide immediately after arrival. When watering normally, be careful not to pour water from the top, and do not let the environment become excessively humid. Once diseased plants with black spots are found, they should immediately be removed and, after spraying with fungicide, placed in direct sunlight for exposure. If the black spots are near the top of the ball body, the diseased top should be cut off without hesitation. This can at least preserve half the ball and let it produce offsets.
Red rot: This is a disease caused by bacteria. It invades through wounds and travels along the vascular bundles to endanger the whole plant. Spherical cacti are most susceptible to this disease. If the root crown of the plant is bitten by woodlice, or if offsets are cut from the lower part of the ball body and there is red rot in the soil, it will rot very quickly, and it is usually too late when discovered. During top-cutting propagation, if the wound is not treated in time or does not dry and form a callus because of humid weather, it is also very easy to become infected with red rot at night. At first there are only a few reddish-brown small spots, which later increase and expand, and finally the whole plant rots. Red rot is also easily contracted when the potting soil is excessively humid or after applying incompletely decomposed fertilizer.
Control method: Potting soil treatment must be proper, and do not apply undecomposed liquid fertilizer. Normally improve ventilation conditions, prevent excessive humidity, and also regularly spray fungicide in various places.
Sclerotinia disease: The pathogen invades from the roots, causing the stem base to soften and rot. The most common is southern blight. Hylocereus undatus is most susceptible to southern blight. In severe cases the whole plant rots quickly, but sometimes only the base rots while the lignified vascular bundles and upper stem tissue remain intact. When the disease occurs, white mycelium can be seen densely covering the soil surface like a spider web, and pink sclerotia can be seen at the rotting parts of diseased plants.
Control method: Pull up the affected Hylocereus undatus, cut off the rotten parts, dry the healthy parts, and then replant them as cuttings. Discard the potting soil. For ground planting, the soil can be exposed to the sun or dry grass can be placed on the soil surface and burned. Spraying with a relatively strong fungicide is also effective. Newly emerged seedlings sometimes also become infected with southern blight. Observe frequently. When affected seedlings are found, remove them immediately, also remove part of the surrounding seedlings, and then spray with fungicide.
Rust disease: In the early stage, water-swollen small spots appear on the stem epidermis, and the leaf veins appear yellow or reddish-brown, later gradually expanding outward, as if wearing rust-colored "armor." It is different from epidermal suberization (aging). It spreads very quickly, and the color is dark inside and lighter at the outer edge, with raised rust spots.
Control method: Mainly strengthen ventilation, avoid pouring water on the top of plants, and spray fungicide once every two weeks during the growing season.
Physiological diseases
Due to harsh cultivation conditions such as strong sunlight exposure, severely insufficient light, sudden low temperatures, and long-term water shortage, the epidermis of stems and leaves becomes scorched and browned, growth points become leggy, some tissues freeze, and tips shrink. The most fundamental measure is to start by improving cultivation conditions.
Young leaves turning yellow, or lower leaves curling and yellowing and continuously falling off, is often caused by excessive watering. But note that nutrient deficiency can also easily cause young leaves to turn yellow. For example, iron deficiency often turns the leaves of flowers that prefer acidic soil yellow-white, or turns the mesophyll yellow while the veins remain green.
Young leaf tips scorching and burning is mostly caused by too strong light, too little watering, or air that is too dry. Curling at the leaf edges is mostly caused by indoor air that is excessively dry.
Old leaf edges scorching is often caused by too much fertilizer and improper watering.
Leaves that are slender, crisp and tender, with yellowing and scorched edges and then falling off, are mostly caused by insufficient light, dry air, overly wet potting soil, and insufficient nutrients. This phenomenon is most obvious in Michelia alba.
The appearance of brown color or brown edges on leaves is mostly caused by sunscald or drought. This phenomenon is most likely to occur on newly sprouted tender leaves of flowers just moved outdoors in spring, often seen on Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, and Michelia figo.
Sudden leaf drop is mainly caused by temperatures suddenly rising and falling and too great a change in light intensity.
Rot treatment
Rot is a common disease of succulents, usually a fungal infection caused by excessive watering or an overly humid cultivation environment. Some insects such as mealybugs can also cause rot, especially root mealybugs. The wounds caused when these pests suck plant sap can lead to fungal infection.
Rot has many forms of manifestation, and by the time you discover it, it is often already too late. Always be alert to faded areas on plants, as well as softened, mushy stems and leaves.
Once a succulent has an area that has faded and become soft and mushy, it is rotten. If rotten, it must be cut off immediately. The cutting tool and hands must be disinfected before and after to avoid infecting other plants. If it is a fungal infection, spray the plant with fungicide. The wound must be completely dry before it can be put into soil.
There are many kinds of rot, briefly introduced as follows:
Crown rot: The inside of the plant rots, causing the plant to fall over;
Stem rot (mainly Euphorbiaceae): The stem rots, usually occurring at the bottom of the stem;
Spotted stem rot: Caused by orange stink bugs;
Fungal rot: Brown, watery stains appear on the plant;
Aizoaceae rot: Occurs on branches and stems
Black rot: Often occurs after cotton aphid or root mealybug infection.
Treatment methods for succulent rot
When handling rotting plants, be sure to keep tools clean and sterile, and be sure to wash your hands carefully before touching other plants.
Crown rot: Use a sharp knife to cut away the infected part, then stuff crushed charcoal and sulfur into the wound. The wound should be completely dry.
Neck rot: Cut off the rotten part, and treat the rest as a stem cutting. Remember that it can only be put into soil after the wound is completely dry.
Fungal rot: Use a clean knife to cut off the damaged part, and cover with sulfur. Spray the plant with a mixed solvent of benlate (translator's note: a fungicide) and mancozeb.
Black rot: Use a clean knife to cut off the infected part, spray with benlate, and cover with sulfur.
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If you do not have the above pesticides, some commonly used disinfectant and sterilization drugs will also do. The most important thing is to cut off the rotten part, then place the plant in a ventilated place and wait for the wound to dry and heal. As long as it is cut off, the tenacious nature of succulents generally allows them to survive. Some varieties that are harder to cultivate are exceptions.
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Camellia Camellia japomica Camellia illustrated guide: How to grow camellias / How to propagate camellias
Camellia profileCamellia Camellia japomica
Aliases: Mandala tree, Souchun, Mountain camellia, Naiodong, Camellia, Late camellia, Tea flower, Foreign tea
Classification: Tree flower
Family and genus: Plantae, Angiosperms, Dicotyledoneae, Ericales, Theaceae, Camellia
Full bloom period: Spring and winter
Camellia, also known as mountain camellia, is a plant in the Theaceae family, belonging to evergreen shrubs and small trees. Its ancient name is sea pomegranate. It has aliases such as Yunming flower, Naiodong, or mandala, and is also divided into East China camellia, Sichuan camellia, and late camellia. There are extremely many camellia cultivars. It is a traditional ornamental flower in China, ranking seventh among the "Ten Famous Flowers," and is also one of the world's precious flower trees.
Camellia cultivation methods and precautions, introduction to camellia
Camellia, also known as mountain camellia, is a plant in the Theaceae family, belonging to evergreen shrubs and small trees. Its ancient name is sea pomegranate. It has aliases such as Yunming flower, Naiodong, or mandala, and is also divided into East China camellia, Sichuan camellia, and late camellia. There are extremely many camellia cultivars. It is a traditional ornamental flower in China, ranking seventh among the "Ten Famous Flowers," and is also one of the world's precious flower trees.
Morphological characteristics of camellia
Camellia is an evergreen broad-leaved shrub or small tree. The branches are yellowish-brown, and the small branches are green or green-purple to purple-brown. The leaves are leathery, alternate, elliptical, long elliptical, ovate to obovate, 4-10 cm long, with acuminate or acute tips, cuneate to nearly semicircular bases, serrate margins, dark green and mostly glossy on the upper surface, lighter on the underside, smooth and hairless, with short thick petioles that are pubescent or hairless.
The flowers are bisexual, usually solitary or 2-3 borne at the tip of branchlets or in leaf axils. The pedicel is very short or inconspicuous, with 9-10 bracts and sepals in imbricate arrangement and covered with down. The flower is single, with 5-7 petals in 1-2 whorls in imbricate arrangement, flower diameter 5-6 cm, bright red in color, petal tips notched or gaped, bases connate into a tube shape; stamens well developed, up to more than 100, filaments white or with a red tinge, bases connate into a tube shape, gathered at the flower center, anthers golden yellow; pistil develops normally, ovary smooth and hairless, 3-4 locules, style single, stigma 3-5 lobed, high seed-setting rate. The capsule is round, the shell lignified, and mature capsules can naturally split along the dorsal suture to release seeds.
Camellia small branches are green or green-purple to purple-brown. Flowers are bisexual, usually solitary or 2-3 borne at the tips of branchlets or in leaf axils. The pedicel is very short or inconspicuous, with 9-10 bracts and sepals in imbricate arrangement and covered with down. The flower is single, with 5-7 petals in 1-2 whorls in imbricate arrangement, flower diameter 5-6 cm, bright red in color, petal tips notched or gaped, bases connate into a tube shape.
Seeds are light brown or dark brown, nearly spherical or polygonal from mutual compression, with flat surfaces and angular edges, seed coat horny and hard, seeds rich in oil, cotyledons thick. The capsule is oblate, with hairs on the surface. Camellia nitidissima is a small tree, 2-6 m tall, with thin leathery leaves, oblong leaves, bony small serrations or fine serrations along the margin, smooth on both sides, sometimes hairy. Petals 7-8, up to 17 in some, golden yellow to pale yellow, with waxy luster, flower diameter 3-5.5 (10) cm; ovary mostly 3-loculed, hairless or hairy. The capsule is oblate or nearly spherical.
Yunnan camellia leaves are larger than those of camellia, 6-14 cm long and 3-7 cm wide, with sharp serrations along the leaf margin. The flowers are also larger than camellia, 8-16 cm in diameter, with some reaching 22 cm; ovary 3-5 loculed, densely covered with silky down. The capsule is oblate, with hairs on the surface. Camellia nitidissima is a small tree, 2-6 m tall, with thin leathery leaves, oblong leaves, bony small serrations or fine serrations along the margin, smooth on both sides, sometimes hairy. Petals 7-8, up to 17 in some, golden yellow to pale yellow, with waxy luster, flower diameter 3-5.5 cm; ovary mostly 3-loculed, hairless or hairy. The capsule is oblate or nearly spherical.
Camellia is a semi-shade tree species with a deep root system and well-developed taproot. It often grows in pine-oak mixed forests or secondary shrublands of evergreen broad-leaved forests, and grows well in deep soil, organic-rich, sparsely shaded and moist places or on both sides of valleys. The flowering period of Yunnan camellia is from December to February-March of the following year. Each flower lasts about 15 days from beginning to end, and the fruit ripening period is September-October.
Besides the original species, camellia has many horticultural cultivars. Today the world's camellia cultivars have developed to more than 5,000. China has about 300 camellia cultivars, which are currently being organized and studied. Based on the petalization of stamens, the natural increase of petals, the evolution of stamens, and the petalization of sepals, they are broadly divided into 3 major classes and 12 flower types:
Single class: Petals arranged in 1-2 whorls, 5-7 pieces, connate at the base, mostly tubular, pistil and stamens fully developed, able to set fruit.
(1) Single type: Characteristics as above.
Semi-double class: Petals arranged in 3-5 whorls, about 20 pieces, up to nearly 50 in some (including petalized stamens).
(1) Semi-double type: Petals arranged in 2-4 whorls, small petaloid stamens and most stamens concentrated at the flower center, most stamens tending to degenerate, occasionally able to set fruit, such as 'Bai Mian Qiu', 'Xing Hong Mu Dan', etc.
(2) Five-star type: Petals arranged in 2-3 whorls, corolla in five-star shape, stamens present, pistil tending to degenerate. Such as 'Dong Yang Cha', etc.
(3) Lotus type: Petals arranged in 3-4 whorls, corolla in lotus shape, stamens present, pistil tending to degenerate or occasionally present. Representative species include 'Shi Yang Jing', 'Hu Zhua Bai', etc.
(4) Pinecone type: Petals arranged in 3-5 whorls, in pinecone shape, both pistil and stamens present. 64. Songzi, with 'Da Songzi' as the representative species.
Double class: Most stamens petalized, petals naturally increased, number of petals above 50 (including petalized stamens).
Ecological habits of camellia
Camellia likes semi-shade and avoids strong sun. It likes a warm climate, with an optimum growth temperature of 18-25°C, and the starting flowering temperature is 2°C. It is slightly cold-resistant; general cultivars can tolerate a low temperature of -10°C and endure summer heat, but growth is inhibited above 36°C. It likes high air humidity and avoids dryness, and is suitable for growth in areas with annual precipitation above 1200 mm. It likes fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 5.5-6.5 being best. There are 2 branch flushes per year. The first is the spring flush, beginning in March-April; the summer flush sprouts in July-September. The flowering period is long, with most cultivars lasting 1-2 months, and a single flower generally lasting 7-15 days. The flowering period is February-March. Aliases: Camellia, tea flower, mandala tree, late camellia, Naiodong, sandal, foreign tea, Suchun, mountain camellia.
Camellia likes a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment. It fears high temperatures and avoids strong sun. The optimum growth temperature for camellia is 18-25°C, 13-18°C from March to September, and 10-13°C from September to March of the following year. When the temperature is above 12°C, it begins to sprout, and above 30°C growth stops. The starting flowering temperature is 2°C, and the suitable temperature for flower opening is 10-20°C. Cold-resistant cultivars of camellia can tolerate -10°C for a short time, and general cultivars -3 to -4°C. When the summer temperature exceeds 35°C, leaf scorching will occur.
Camellia is suitable for an environment with sufficient water and humid air, and avoids dryness. In the hot, dry summer and autumn, watering or misting should be done in time, and the relative air humidity is best at 70%-80%. During the plum rain season, pay attention to drainage to avoid root waterlogging and rot.
Camellia is a semi-shade plant and is suitable for growth under diffused light. It fears direct sunlight exposure, and seedlings need shading. But long-term excessive shade is unfavorable to camellia growth, causing thin leaves and fewer flowers, affecting ornamental value. Adult plants need more light to facilitate flower bud formation and flowering.
For open-field cultivation, choose deep, loose soil with good drainage, and a pH of 5-6 is most suitable. Alkaline soil is not suitable for camellia growth. For potting soil, use fertile, loose, slightly acidic loam or leaf mold.
Camellia cultivation techniques
Camellia can be propagated by sowing, cuttings, grafting, layering, and other methods. Sowing is generally used to breed new cultivars or propagate rootstocks. Seeds are collected after maturing in autumn and winter and sown immediately in seedling beds. At 18-20°C, they can germinate in 10-30 days, and cultivation requires 4-5 years before flowering. Cuttings are carried out from April to June. Select one-year-old hard branches, about 10-15 cm long, keep one terminal bud and one lateral bud at the upper end, attach 2-3 leaves, ring-bark, and all lower leaves must be cut off. The cutting medium can be sandy loam or humus soil. Place the cutting pot under a shade shed, maintain a temperature of 18-20°C and relative humidity of 80%-85%, and roots form in about 60-100 days. New branches can sprout the following spring. Current-year tender branches can also be used for cuttings, and roots form in about 30 days. Camellia horticultural cultivar propagation commonly uses approach grafting. Rootstocks can be seedlings of camellia, oil tea, and tea camellia. Locally, cuttings of the variety Camellia albiflora are often used as rootstock. Scions should be 2-3 years old and about 30-40 cm long. Cut a 4-5 cm notch at the base of the scion and at the root crown of the rootstock, then join the two. Approach grafting is suitable from May to June. About 100-120 days after grafting, the rootstock and scion can fully heal, and they can be cut away from the mother plant. Air layering is carried out from May to October. Select healthy one-year-old branches, make a 1 cm wide ring bark, wrap the wound with a plastic bag filled with leaf mold and tie it, keep it moist, and roots form in 2 months, then cut off and pot. Imbricate arrangement, covered. The flower is single, 5-7 pieces in 1-2 whorls in imbricate arrangement, diameter 5-6 cm, bright red, petal tips notched or gaped, bases connate into a tube shape; likes fertile, loose, slightly acidic pH 5.5-6.5 is best. There are 2 branch flushes per year. The first is the spring flush, beginning in March-April; the summer flush sprouts in July-September. Most cultivars last 1-2 months, and a single flower generally lasts 7-15 days. Flowering period February-March. 6-14 cm long, 3-7 cm wide, leaf margin with sharp serrations. Flowers also reaching 22 cm, densely covered with silky. Capsule oblate, with hairs on the surface. With flower diameter 3-5.5 cm, oblate or nearly spherical.
Ground-planted camellia
It is further divided into garden cultivation and nursery cultivation. If used for landscaping cultivation, there must be shade trees as companions. For nursery cultivation, shade trees should be planted in rows. In warm areas, autumn planting is generally better than spring planting. Fertilization must grasp three key periods, namely: apply topdressing in February-March to promote the growth of spring shoots and flower buds; apply topdressing in June to promote secondary branch growth and improve drought resistance; apply base fertilizer in October-November to improve the plant's cold resistance and lay a good foundation for new shoot growth the following spring. Cleaning the garden is one of the effective measures to control pests and diseases and strengthen tree vigor. Winter plowing can eliminate overwintering pests. Throughout the year, 5-6 times of intertillage and weeding are needed, but intertillage should stop in the high-temperature summer season to reduce soil moisture evaporation. The main pests of camellia include: tea tussock moth, tea leaf miner, tea black citrus aphid, etc. The main diseases include: tea ring spot, camellia algal leaf spot, and camellia anthracnose, etc. Control methods are: remove dead branches and fallen leaves to eliminate infection sources. Strengthen cultivation management to enhance plant disease resistance, and use chemical control.
Potted camellia
The pot size and seedling ratio should be appropriate. The potting soil used is best garden soil mixed with 1/2-1/3 one-year decomposed cut pine needles. Pot in November or February-March of the following year, and never pot in the high-temperature season. After potting, water thoroughly, and water appropriately at ordinary times. The amount of watering should change with the seasons. Around Qingming, the plant enters the growth and sprouting period, and the water amount should gradually increase. After new shoots stop growing (about late May), watering should be properly controlled to promote flower bud differentiation. June is the plum rain season, so prevent water accumulation. In the high-temperature summer season, leaf surface evaporation is high, so leaf misting is needed. Misting should be done in the early morning or evening, and never at noon. In winter, the plant gradually enters dormancy, and the frequency of watering should be correspondingly reduced. Never water with cold water under high temperature and strong sun, to avoid the roots becoming unadapted and causing physiological leaf drop. On hot or windy days, leaf surface evaporation is high, so water more or mist more. When air humidity is high, reduce the amount of watering. If drought and dehydration occur, with branches and leaves wilting, immediately place the plant in a shady place, water thoroughly, and at the same time mist the leaves. Generally, large-leaf and large-flower camellia cultivars and fast-growing cultivars have high water demand and should be watered more. Precious cultivars such as Shi Xiang Jing, Yuan Feng Guan, Sa Jin Bao Zhu, Feng Xian, Lu Zhu Qiu, etc. have low water evaporation, and excessive watering will cause leaf drop and bud drop. In the high-temperature summer and autumn seasons, shade and cool down in time. In winter, take anti-freezing measures. Potted plants overwintering indoors are best kept at 3-4°C. If the temperature exceeds 16°C, it will promote early sprouting. Fertilization, pruning, and pest and disease control for potted camellias are basically the same as for open-field cultivation.
Camellia propagation methods and cultivation characteristics
Camellias naturally prefer a warm, humid climate environment, avoid harsh sunlight, and favor semi-shaded diffused light; they are also shade-tolerant.
Fertilization Methods
Do not over-fertilize or apply concentrated fertilizer, as camellias dislike strong fertilizer; otherwise it will damage the root system and reduce the number of flowers. For base fertilizer, camellias are best given organic fertilizer, such as fermented chicken and duck manure, animal organs, soybean cake, and fish bone meal. These organic fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and other components, are relatively comprehensive, and have long-lasting fertilizer effects. When applying, they can be sun-dried and crushed into powder, first mixed with 5 to 6 times the amount of dry soil, and then scattered 2 to 3 cm away from the plant roots when repotting and filling the pot with soil.
Camellias prefer cool weather and fear high temperatures and intense heat. When topdressing in early spring, alum fertilizer water must be applied. To make alum fertilizer water, add 100 g of green [ferrous sulfate] to 10 kg of clean water, then add 200 g of soybean cake powder and 1000 g of dried poultry manure and soak to ferment. In hot weather, soak for 1 month; in cool weather, soak for 3 to 4 months until fully decomposed.
Common Propagation Methods
These include cuttings, grafting, and sowing.
（1）Cuttings
In East China, the suitable period for cuttings is mid-to-late June. The second round of cuttings is carried out from late August to early September. During these two periods, the temperature is around 30°C; with shade facilities, the temperature can be controlled at around 25°C. The cuttings should be selected from current-year semi-mature branches on the outer part of the canopy that are firm in tissue, have intact leaves, plump leaf buds, and no pests or diseases. The cuttings are generally 4 to 10 cm long, with 2 leaves left at the tip, and when cutting, the lower end should include a heel. The cutting density is generally 10 to 14 cm between rows and 3 to 4 cm between plants, requiring the leaves to interlock but not overlap. Insert the cuttings about 3 cm into the soil; shallow insertion roots quickly, while deep insertion roots slowly. After inserting, spray thoroughly with water. From cutting to rooting generally takes about 30 days. "The key to survival is maintaining sufficient humidity in the early stage of cutting, taking measures to reduce hot air convection, strictly avoiding direct sunlight, and paying attention to spraying water on the leaf surface to keep a thin film of water covering the leaves at all times." After rooting, gradually increase sunlight; after October, allow the seedlings to receive full sunlight to accelerate lignification.
（2）Grafting
For seedling rootstock bud grafting, after the seeds are sown in a sand bed and grown for about 2 months, when the seedlings reach 4 to 5 cm tall, they can be dug up and grafted using the cleft grafting method. Select well-growing semi-lignified branches as scions, and cut them one by one from bottom to top with 1 bud and 1 leaf. Cut the scion into a regular wedge shape and place it in a wet towel. Take the dug-up rootstock seedlings, remove all mud and sand, then cut them off 1 to 1.5 cm above the cotyledons. Along the cotyledon suture line, make a vertical cut through the stem, with the depth matching the cut surface of the scion; insert the prepared scion into the cleft of the rootstock, align the cambium on one side, and tie it tightly with a plastic film strip. Plant the grafted seedlings in the seedbed at a row spacing of 8 cm × 2 cm. The bed soil should preferably be fertile, loose sandy loam. After planting, the seedbed should be covered with a plastic tunnel to keep warm. Generally, healing begins in 10 to 15 days, and after 20 to 25 days the film can be opened at night to allow ventilation. Afterward, gradually increase ventilation and appropriately increase light. After new growth begins, remove the film entirely. For semi-mature branch grafting, use adult plants of thick-leaved camellia or oil tea as rootstocks for side grafting with reduced canopy, and in 1 to 2 years a large plant of a famous camellia variety can be produced. Select healthy plants with plump buds and no pests or diseases as rootstocks. For summer grafting, pruning and preparation are carried out before the end of February; for autumn grafting, before mid-June. Cut away diseased and weak branches, drooping branches, crossing branches, and overly dense branches. The suitable temperature for grafting is 5 to 30°C. For branches with a diameter of 1 cm or more, use bark grafting: make one cut each on the upper, left, and right sides of the appropriate part of the rootstock, deep enough to reach the xylem, pull the bark down so its length matches the cut surface of the scion, then place the prepared scion against the pulled-back bark of the rootstock, pull the bark up to wrap the scion, then bind it with a plastic strip, exposing the buds, and then put on a plastic bag to increase humidity and promote healing. After 30 days, remove the wrapping. After the scion sends out new shoots and gradually lignifies, remove the binding. Cutting off the rootstock is done in 3 stages: the first time, cut off the shoot tip when binding; the second time, after the first new shoot of the scion has fully lignified, cut off 1/3 of the upper part of the rootstock; the third time, after the second new shoot of the scion has fully lignified, cut off the rootstock at the graft union. When grafting in high-temperature seasons, success depends on controlling high temperatures. A shade shed must be built and covered with double-layer curtains so that direct sunlight is basically absent inside. Around noon, spray water to cool down and keep the local temperature at around 30°C.
（3）Sowing
In early to mid-October, place the harvested fruits indoors in a ventilated place to dry in the shade. After the capsules split and the seeds are taken out, sow immediately. If sowing cannot be done immediately in autumn, store the seeds in sand until sowing in February of the following year. Before sowing, the seeds can be mixed with Xinguozhim[?] film coating. Generally, autumn sowing has a higher germination rate than spring sowing.
Commonly propagated by cuttings, grafting, layering, sowing, and tissue culture.
Cutting Propagation
Mid-June and around the end of August are the most suitable. Select current-year semi-mature branches from the outer part of the canopy that are firm in tissue, have intact leaves, and plump leaf buds as cuttings, 8 to 10 cm long, with 2 leaves left at the tip. When cutting, keep as much old branch as possible at the base; after insertion, callus tends to form and roots develop quickly. Cut the cuttings in the early morning and insert them immediately after cutting. Insert about 3 cm into the substrate. When inserting, the leaves should interlock, and after insertion press firmly with fingers. Shallow insertion is better, as it allows air circulation and faster healing and rooting. The cutting bed needs shade, daily misting on the leaf surface, keeping it moist, and maintaining the temperature at 20 to 25°C. About 3 weeks after insertion, healing begins, and roots form after 6 weeks. When the roots are 3 to 4 cm long, transplant into pots. When taking cuttings, dip the base of the cuttings in a 0.4% to 0.5% indolebutyric acid solution for 2 to 5 seconds, which has a clear effect of promoting rooting.
Grafting Propagation
Often used for varieties that root with difficulty from cuttings or have few propagation materials. Grafting from May to June, when new shoots have become semi-lignified, gives the highest survival rate, and after successful grafting, buds sprout and shoots grow quickly. The main rootstock is oil tea; seeds are collected in October, stored in sand in winter, sown in early April of the following year, and when the seedlings grow to 4 to 5 cm, they can be used for grafting. Use the softwood cleft grafting method: use a blade to cut off the embryo bud part of the bud rootstock, make a vertical cut upward along the pith in the center of the cross-section of the hypocotyl, then take one node of camellia scion and also cut the base below the node into a regular wedge shape. Immediately insert the prepared scion into the bottom of the rootstock cleft, align the cambium on both sides, bind with cotton thread, and cover with a clean plastic bag. Remove the bag after about 40 days, and sprouting and shoot growth can occur only after about 60 days.
Layering Propagation
In the plum rain season, select robust 1-year-old branches and perform ring-barking 20 cm from the tip, 1 cm wide. After wrapping with leaf mold soil, cover with plastic film. Roots form after about 60 days, and the layered shoot can be cut off and directly potted, with a high survival rate.
Sowing Propagation
Suitable for single or semi-double varieties. Seeds mature in mid-October and can be sown then. Shallow sowing is better. Use vermiculite as the substrate, cover with 6 mm, keep at room temperature 21°C, and provide 10 hours of light each night to promote seed germination. Germination begins 15 days after sowing, and within 30 days the seedlings reach 8 cm tall. Transplant when the seedlings have 2 to 3 leaves.
Tissue Culture Propagation
The explants are often seedlings. After routine disinfection, cut them into 1 cm lengths and inoculate them on MS medium supplemented with kinetin 1 mg/L, 6-benzylaminopurine 1 mg/L, and indoleacetic acid 0.1 mg/L. After 4 weeks of culture, only callus forms, with no shoots. After transfer to new medium, a single 4 cm shoot begins to form, then soak in 0.5 mg/L indolebutyric acid solution for 20 minutes, transfer to 1/2 MS medium, and roots grow after 4 weeks. After growing for 8 weeks on the rooting medium, transplant the plantlets into pots filled with perlite and peat.
Disease Control of Camellia
These include camellia anthracnose and camellia blister blight; common pests include red spider mites and scale insects.
When camellias are cultivated indoors or in greenhouses, if ventilation is poor, they are susceptible to damage from red spider mites and scale insects. They can be controlled by spraying with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 times dilution or by washing them clean. In the plum rain season, air humidity is high, and anthracnose damage often occurs. It can be controlled by spraying with equal-strength Bordeaux mixture or 25% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution.
When semicircular or irregular brown lesions appear at the leaf tip or leaf margin of camellias, with massive leaf fall and even death of the whole plant, it is caused by fungal infection. Common ones include: brown spot disease, which in the early stage forms many small brown spots on the upper surface of leaves, then gradually expands into semicircular, circular, or irregular large brown spots, and finally turns silvery gray, with many small black grains arranged in rings or scattered; the boundary between the lesion and normal tissue is obvious. Red spot disease initially appears as small light brown spots, then expands into circular or irregular reddish-brown lesions, but there are no small grains on the lesions; the lesion margin is slightly raised, darker in color, and clearly demarcated from normal tissue. This disease occurs in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and also in Yunnan, Sichuan, Hunan, and other places. In severe cases, a large number of leaves fall off, and even the entire plant dies.
In addition, there is camellia anthracnose caused by anthracnose fungi, which also mostly occurs at the leaf margins. The shape and color of the lesions are basically similar to those of the leaf spot diseases caused by the above-mentioned leaf spot fungi, but the typical symptom unique to anthracnose is the production of pale red viscous material on the lesions when humidity is high, which can distinguish it from other leaf spots. There are also fungi that invade the leaf surface, young leaves, and young shoots of camellias, but the location, shape, and color of the lesions are obviously different; the control methods are the same. The above diseases mainly occur because under high temperature and high humidity, the disease resistance of camellia plants decreases and they are infected by fungi. They can also occur at low temperature and rainy conditions, or high temperature and dry conditions, as well as on wounds of plants with poor ventilation or sunscald spots. They generally occur easily in summer and autumn.
Strengthen management and careful maintenance to enhance plant disease resistance and reduce opportunities for infection. For example, appropriately increase the distance between plants and rows to maintain good ventilation; frequently weed, loosen the soil, and drain accumulated water; the soil should be acidic (pH around 6), loose, and have good drainage. Normally, water should be applied so that the soil dries between waterings; strictly avoid applying too much nitrogen fertilizer alone. In midsummer, pay attention to shading to prevent sunscald, and avoid injuring leaves during management operations.
Chemical control: during the growing season, camellias can be sprayed once every half month for prevention. Diseased leaves found should be removed immediately and burned together to reduce infection sources. Affected plants should temporarily stop fertilization (especially nitrogen fertilizer), drain accumulated water in time, keep the pot soil appropriately on the dry side, and ensure ventilation. At the same time, spray the leaf surface with chemicals. Commonly used control chemicals include: 65% zineb wettable powder at 800 times dilution; 50% tebuconazole wettable powder at 800 to 1000 times dilution; 75% chlorothalonil and 50% carbendazim at 500 to 800 times dilution; 70% thiophanate-methyl at 800 to 1000 times dilution, etc., all have good control effects. Spray once every two weeks on the leaf surface, wetting the entire leaf surface, for three consecutive times, preferably in the evening. Note that when using zineb, avoid mixing it with other alkaline pesticides.
The reason the effect of medication is poor also lies in frequently using one kind of chemical for control; over time, the pathogen will develop a certain resistance, and the efficacy will become less obvious. Other chemicals can be appropriately substituted, or chemicals can be used alternately or mixed, and the plant's ecological environment should be improved in time. In addition, improper concentration, timing, or method of application will also reduce the fungicidal effect.
Common Pests and Diseases of Flowers in Spring
In spring, the temperature turns warm but still cold, and air humidity is high. The occurrence of crop pests and diseases is at a moderate to severe level, and flower pests and diseases are also numerous. Generally, the following are more serious from April to May:
Aphids: Hibiscus syriacus, ornamental peach, Chinese hibiscus, rose, honeysuckle, and others are all easily harmed by aphids. As the temperature rises, aphids also increase day by day. Control methods: 1. Mix 40% omethoate or 50% phosmet with water at 1200 to 1500 times dilution and spray. 2. For a small number of potted flowers, a 70 to 100 times dilution of neutral laundry detergent solution can also be sprayed.
Red spider mites: They begin to cause damage to jasmine, Chinese hibiscus, asparagus fern, rose, dahlia, and others from early April. Control methods: 1. Spray with 1000 times dilution of supracide. 2. For a small number of potted flowers, frequently rinse the front and back of leaves with tap water, or spray or dip with boiled and cooled 100 to 150 times dilution of flour paste water, then rinse once more with clean water after a day or two, which can achieve obvious results.
Scale insects (flower lice): Scale insects on white magnolia, rose, boxwood, and pittosporum mostly begin to hatch from mid-April to mid-to-late May. Control methods: 1. Before hatching, gently brush off the insects by hand. 2. During the larval hatching period, spray with 40% omethoate at 1000 to 1500 times dilution.
Damping-off: When the temperature reaches 20°C, newly sown flowers, tree seedlings, and some flowers prone to root rot are highly susceptible to damping-off when soil moisture is high. Control methods: 1. Before sowing, evenly mix 1.5 to 4 kg of 70% quintozene per mu into the soil. 2. Control watering at the seedling stage and do not let the soil become too wet. 3. At the early stage of disease, irrigate with 1% ferrous sulfate or 200 to 400 times dilution of 50% amobam solution, applying 2 to 4 kg of solution per square meter.
Rust: Rose rust attacks when rose buds are about to open. Control methods: 1. When roses sprout, promptly remove and burn the yellow diseased buds that sprout first to eliminate the source of infection. 2. Spray with 15% triadimefon at 700 to 1000 times dilution during the early infection period.
Powdery mildew: Rose powdery mildew and impatiens powdery mildew mostly occur from May to June. In summer, they easily cause symptoms such as yellow leaves, dead leaves, and curled young shoots. Control methods: 1. Pay attention to ventilation and light transmission for the flowers. 2. Apply less nitrogen fertilizer and more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. 3. Spray once with 15% triadimefon at 700 to 1000 times dilution at the early infection stage.
Identifying Flower Pests and Diseases
Flower diseases are generally divided into two categories: physiological diseases and parasitic diseases. Physiological diseases are mainly caused by unsuitable conditions such as climate and soil. Commonly occurring physiological diseases include: sunburn caused by strong light in summer; freezing damage caused by low temperatures in winter; root rot caused by excessive water; scorched leaf edges and wilting caused by insufficient water; deficiency symptoms due to lack of certain nutrient elements in the soil, and so on. Parasitic diseases are caused by fungi, bacteria, viruses, nematodes, and other organisms infecting flowers. These organisms have different forms, but most have parasitic and pathogenic abilities and relatively strong reproductive capacity. They can spread from diseased plants to healthy plants through various channels (stomata, wounds, insects, wind, rain, etc.), grow, develop, reproduce, and spread under suitable environmental conditions, repeating the cycle and gradually expanding. Therefore, this type of disease causes the greatest harm to flowers. Fungi: Fungi are lower eukaryotes without chlorophyll. They use mycelium as their vegetative body and reproduce by spores, and are the most important category among flower diseases. Most fungal diseases have obvious signs, such as mold-like substances, powdery substances, rust-like substances, dot-like substances, and thread-like substances. These characteristics are one of the main bases for identifying fungal diseases. Common fungal diseases include powdery mildew, anthracnose, and so on. Bacteria: Bacteria are a type of single-celled prokaryotic organism that reproduce by division. Bacterial diseases are mainly characterized by water-soaked diseased tissue or lesions that are translucent, and under humid conditions, bacterial mucus overflows from the diseased parts, producing a "pus overflow" phenomenon, which is one of the main bases for identifying bacterial diseases. Common bacterial diseases include iris bacterial soft rot, and so on. Viruses: Viruses are extremely tiny parasites. Their morphology must be observed with an electron microscope. They parasitize within the living cell tissues of flowers and can move with the host sap flow within the flower body, spreading throughout the whole plant and causing whole-plant disease. Viral diseases often show symptoms such as mosaic, yellowing, deformity, and ring spots. Common viral diseases include narcissus viral disease, and so on. Nematodes: Nematodes belong to a class of lower animals. Nematodes are slender, slightly pointed at both ends, generally 1 to 2 mm long, like a roundworm. A few nematode females are spherical or pear-shaped. They mostly live in the soil, parasitize flower roots, stimulate local host cell proliferation, and form tumor-like structures. Common nematode diseases include cyclamen root-knot nematode disease, and so on.
Variety Classification of Camellia (1) The 3 major groups of camellias:
1. Single-petal group
2. Semi-double group
3. Double group
(2) The 12 flower types of camellias:
1. Single-petal group is divided into: single-petal type;
2. Semi-double group is divided into: semi-double type, five-star type, lotus type, pinecone type;
3. Double group is divided into: anemone type, chrysanthemum type, hibiscus type, crown type, hydrangea type, radial type, rose type.
There are about 2000 camellia varieties, which can be divided into 3 major groups and 12 flower types. The Compendium of Materia Medica says: "The leaves of camellia are similar to tea, and can also be used for drinking, hence the name."
Hua Jing records nineteen camellia varieties: agate camellia, crane-top red, pearl camellia, banana-calyx white pearl, Yang Fei camellia, Zhenggong pink, pomegranate camellia, Yinian red, Zhaodian red, late camellia, southern mountain camellia, etc. Camellias have many flower forms, including single-petal, semi-double, double, curved-petal, five-star-petal, hexagonal, pine-shell type, and so on. Flowers come in red, yellow, white, pink, and even white petals with red dots:
Single-petal group: petals in 1 to 2 whorls, 5 to 7 pieces, connected at the base, mostly tubular, and fertile. Under it there is only 1 type, namely the single-petal type.
Semi-double group: petals in 3 to 5 whorls, about 20 pieces, with some nearly 50 pieces. It is divided into 4 types, namely semi-double type, five-star type, lotus type, and pinecone type. 3. Double group: most stamens become petal-like, petals naturally increase, and the number of petals is more than 50. It is divided into 7 types, namely anemone type, chrysanthemum type, hibiscus type, crown type, hydrangea type, radial type, and rose type.
Common varieties include Chenxi in the single-petal group, with crinkled petals, pure white; Sai Jinguang, with white flowers marked with peach-red lines and fine dots; Dahua Jinxin, with large red flowers, flower diameter 6 to 7 cm.
In the semi-double group there are Sai Luoyang, with red flowers and white blotches; Da Songzi, with dark red flowers; Zui Yangfei, with pink flowers; Xingtao Mudan, with peach-red flowers.
In the double group there are Bai Baozhu, with pure white flowers; Hong Furong, with oleander-red flowers; Hua Furong, with white flowers and red lines; Hua Baozhu, with pink flowers and irregular red stripes; Wuhe Pengqiu, with bright red flowers; Hua Foding, with bright red flowers and a small amount of white blotches; Hong Shiba Xueshi, with red flowers; Chidan, with bright red flowers; Hua Heling, with light red flowers and white spots.
Varieties selected and bred abroad include:
Adolphe Audusson, with large, deep red, double flowers. Alba Plena, with large, white, double flowers.
Berenica Boddy, with light pink, semi-double flowers and strong cold resistance.
Debutante, with large, peony-type, light pink flowers.
Doncke-larii, with red flowers bearing white marble-like stripes, semi-double.
Elegans, with large, anemone-type, rose-red flowers with white spots. Finlandia, with light pink, semi-double flowers.
Glen 40, with large, deep red, double flowers.
Herme, with pink flowers bearing irregular white edges and deep pink stripes, semi-double.
Kumasaka, with rose-type flowers, rose red.
Magnoliaeflora, with light red, semi-double flowers.
Mathotiana, with large, rose-type, deep red, double flowers.
Purity, with white, rose-type, double flowers.
Among hybrid camellias there is Donation, with large, pink, semi-double flowers.
Fragrant Pint, with small, peony-type, deep pink flowers, very fragrant.
Distribution Range of Camellia
Camellia is native to the Himalayan region, Chongqing, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Sichuan, and Shandong; it is also distributed in Japan and the Korean Peninsula, especially abundantly in Yunnan. Later, camellia was introduced to Europe and America and became one of the world-famous flowers.
There are already more than 306 camellia varieties in China. Batch production has begun in Zhejiang, Fujian, Jiangsu, and other places. It has become a major potted ornamental flower and tree in the flower market in winter.
Camellia is native to China. Wild camellias are distributed under the forests of mountain valleys in Chongqing, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, and Sichuan, as well as in Laoshan in Shandong Province and on coastal islands. In Ningbo and the Siming Mountains in Zhejiang Province, there are also patches of wild camellia distribution. In the rocky crevices at an altitude of 380 m at Baoyan South of Huacheng Cave in Daluo Mountain, Rui'an County, Wenzhou, southern Zhejiang Province, ancient camellia trees more than 1200 years old are still preserved. In Chongqing, Lichuan in Jiangxi, and Mount Emei in Sichuan Province, there are natural distributions of ancient tea trees over 1000 years old growing wild in forests.
For cultivation distribution, the open-field planting areas of camellia are mainly in the Yangtze River basin. In China, except for parts of the Northeast, Northwest, and North China where the climate is too cold for planting, it is planted in gardens almost everywhere across the country. However, large-area open-field cultivation is mostly in Chongqing, Zhejiang, Fujian, Sichuan, Hunan, Jiangxi, and Anhui provinces. Yunnan camellia is a specialty of Yunnan, originating from Tengchong in southwestern Yunnan. It has a widespread open-field cultivation distribution within Yunnan Province. After Liberation, Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, and other places introduced and planted it, but mostly in greenhouse cultivation. In 1824, Yunnan camellia was first introduced to Europe. Golden camellia is mostly native to Guangxi, China; there are only 4 species in northern Vietnam, and it has also been found in Yunnan.
The Role and Uses of Camellia: Ornamental Value
The genus Camellia in the family Theaceae has about 220 or more species, among which Camellia japonica, Yunnan camellia, sasanqua, and the newly discovered golden camellia in China are all important ornamental flowers and trees.
Camellia is an evergreen flowering tree that blooms at the turn of winter and spring, with graceful flower posture and bright flower colors. Comrade Guo Moruo praised it highly: "A camellia tree blooms early with peach-red, a hundred rosy clouds roar proudly among them." Guo Lao also once wrote a poem praising Yunnan camellia: "It is famously said that camellia is the provincial flower; today I first see the city filled with rosy clouds; everyone says peony is good, but I say peony cannot compare with camellia."
Medicinal and Dietary or Medicinal Value of Camellia
The medical information and health dietary information on Hugarden[?] are for reference only and cannot be used as a basis for diagnosis or medical treatment. Any health problems should be consulted with professional medical personnel, and treatment of any disease should follow a doctor's advice.
Ultimate flower-protecting mission: love yourself, start from reality, and strictly follow a doctor's advice. For illness, do not be careless, do not delay, do not give up hope, face it bravely, use love to warm the silent world, and use your heart to care for the flower field within.
Brief Introduction to the Medicinal Material
[Alias] Tea flower.
[Source] It is the plant Camellia japonica L. of the genus Camellia in the family Theaceae, and its roots and flowers are used as medicine. The roots can be collected throughout the year; the flowers are collected in spring and winter, sun-dried or oven-dried.
Camellia, also known as tea flower, is a plant in the genus Camellia of the family Theaceae. Its flowers are full and graceful, dignified and elegant, and it is one of China's traditional top ten famous flowers. It is also one of the world's famous flowers.
Camellia is an evergreen shrub of the family Theaceae. It belongs to the family Theaceae, an evergreen shrub or small tree, reaching up to 3 to 4 m tall. The trunk is smooth and hairless. Leaves are ovate or elliptical, with fine serrations at the margin, leathery, and bright green on the surface. Flowers are solitary or paired, growing in leaf axils or at the tips of branches. Petals are nearly round; in variant double forms, petals can reach 50 to 60 pieces. Flower colors include red, white, yellow, purple, and ink-black, all very vivid. The flowering period varies by variety, with flowers opening from October to April of the following year. The capsule is round and matures in late autumn, but most double flowers cannot bear fruit. Camellia has the proud plum-like character of "only camellia is especially durable, alone able to occupy the spring wind in the deep month," and also the peony-surpassing vividness of "flowers abundant and brilliantly red, deeply surpassing the morning glow." Therefore, since ancient times it has been a very famous woody flower, reaching its peak in the Tang and Song dynasties, and after being introduced to Europe in the 17th century, it caused a sensation and thus gained the reputation of a "world-famous flower." It prefers cool, humid climates and cannot tolerate high temperatures. It is not demanding about soil, but sandy soil with high moisture content is more suitable. Full sun and half sun are both suitable. The fruit is a capsule, large with thick skin, containing 1 to 2 or more than 2 seeds.
Medicinal nature and flavor: pungent, bitter, cold.
Bencao Jingshu: sweet and slightly pungent in taste, balanced and slightly cold in nature.
Benjing Fengyuan: bitter, warm, non-toxic.
Baicao Jing: astringent in taste.
Medicinal meridian entry:Liver; lung meridians.
Bencao Zaixin: enters the liver and lung meridians.
Bencao Cuoyao: enters the foot Jueyin and hand Yangming meridians.
Functions and Indications
Astringes and cools blood, stops bleeding. Used for vomiting blood, nosebleeds, blood in the stool, and uterine bleeding; externally used to treat burns and scalds, and traumatic bleeding.
Gangmu: for burns and scalds, grind into powder, mix with sesame oil, and apply.
Yilin Zuanyao: tonifies the liver and soothes the liver, breaks blood stasis and removes heat.
Baicao Jing: cools blood, breaks blood stasis, stops bleeding. Dissolves carbuncles and swellings and treats falls and blows, stops chronic dysentery and intestinal wind with bloody stool, uterine bleeding and bloody strangury, nosebleeds and vomiting blood; externally applied for moxibustion sores.
Bencao Zaixin: treats the blood aspect, regulates intestinal wind, clears liver fire, moistens the lungs and nourishes yin.
Applied Prescriptions
To treat vomiting blood and cough: 1. Baozhu camellia, roasted black on a tile, mixed with red sugar, taken daily in unrestricted amount. 2. Ten flowers of Baozhu camellia, five qian of safflower, one liang of bletilla, four liang of red dates. Decoct in water into one bowl and take; the residue can be taken again, and the red dates can also be eaten at any time. (Wang Diangui, Buyao Liangfang)
To treat red dysentery: large red Baozhu camellia flowers, dried in the shade and ground into powder, mixed evenly with white sugar, steamed over the rice pot three or four times and taken. (Jiusheng Kuhai)
To treat bleeding hemorrhoids: Baozhu camellia, ground into powder and taken with water. (Gangmu Shiyi)
To treat cracked and nearly falling nipples with abnormal pain: Baozhu camellia, roasted and ground into powder, mixed with sesame oil and applied. (Gangmu Shiyi)
[Usage and Dosage] 10 to 15 grams. For external use, an appropriate amount, ground into powder and mixed with sesame oil for topical application.
[Excerpted from] National Compilation of Chinese Herbal Medicines, Gangmu.
Cultural Background of Camellia: Cultivation History
Camellia is native to China. As early as the beginning of the 7th century AD, Japan introduced camellias from China, and by the early 15th century it introduced large numbers of Chinese camellia varieties. In 1739, Britain first introduced Chinese camellias, and afterward camellias spread to European and American countries. To date, the United States, Britain, Japan, Australia, Italy, and other countries have developed rapidly in camellia breeding, propagation, and production, and have entered the stage of industrialized production, with interspecific hybrids and new varieties constantly coming onto the market.
China has a long history of cultivating camellias. Camellia cultivation has existed since the Southern Dynasties. In the Tang Dynasty, camellias were cultivated as precious flowers and trees. By the Song Dynasty, camellia cultivation was already very prevalent. In the Southern Song Dynasty, camellias from Wenzhou were introduced to Hangzhou and developed rapidly. In the Ming Dynasty, Hua Shi described and classified camellia varieties. By the Qing Dynasty, camellia cultivation was even more flourishing, and camellia varieties continuously appeared. Since 1949, China's camellia cultivation level has improved to a certain extent, and variety selection and breeding have also developed. There are already more than 300 camellia varieties in China.
Beautiful Legend
According to legend, there was a woman named Dabu. She was very hardworking and kind, but had always been alone. She worked from early morning until late at night, had food and clothing, and lived a comfortable life.
Her greatest hobby was loving flowers and plants. Inside and outside the courtyard, she planted many flowers and plants. Whenever she had time, she watered the flowers and plants, weeded, and caught insects. Red, white, yellow, purple, there was nothing she did not have; spring, summer, autumn, winter, there were always flowers blooming. They vied in beauty, a riot of color, with a delicate fragrance that refreshed the heart. But there was not one she especially liked. She always wanted to find a flower she loved most and plant it in the center of her courtyard. She searched everywhere, looked over all the mountains and ridges, but the flower she loved most was still not found.
One day, Dabu went to Kuige Longtan to carry water to water the flowers. When she reached the edge of Longtan, she saw a flower with nine stamens and eighteen petals reflected on the water surface, extremely brilliant in color, and she was stunned. After looking for a while, she raised her head and looked around, but did not find any flower like the one on the water surface, so she filled the water and carried it home on her back. Going out the door, she thought of that flower; entering the door, she thought of that flower again; with eyes open, she thought of that flower; with eyes closed, she also thought of that flower! Thinking and thinking, within a few days she became ill, did not eat or drink, and lay in bed all day. What illness had she contracted? She did not know either. Many doctors came to treat her, but none cured her illness. Her illness grew worse day by day! After being ill for an unknown number of days, Dabu was close to death.
At the critical moment, a beautiful girl stepped over the threshold, came to Dabu's bedside, called her "Ama" sweetly, and said she had come to treat her illness. Dabu opened her eyes and saw that the flowers inserted in the girl's hair and hung on her chest were exactly the same as the one she had seen on the water surface. Without taking a single pill, she recovered! Dabu suddenly turned over, jumped out of bed with a thud, and stared at the girl without blinking. The girl's smiling face was also just like the flower she had seen.
Dabu asked the girl what flower she was wearing, and she said it was camellia; when asked whether she had a flower seedling, she gave Dabu one.
After the girl left, Dabu took a hoe and planted the camellia in the center of the courtyard. Every day Dabu watered the camellia, every month she fertilized it, every season she weeded it, as carefully and thoughtfully as raising a nursing baby. Within a few years, the camellia tree grew up and bloomed. That tea tree had a vigorous and graceful posture, with green leaves that did not wither in all four seasons; each flower was as large as a peony, as brilliant as rosy clouds, graceful and dazzling! Even more strange was that when that camellia was in full bloom, people from surrounding villages, when drawing water in golden basins, could see the reflection of the camellia; when going to the edge of Longtan to carry water, they could also see the beautiful image of the camellia on the water surface.
After an unknown number of years, Dabu died. It is said that the girl who gave the camellia to Dabu was the camellia fairy from heaven! In order to commemorate the camellia fairy and also to commemorate Dabu, a temple was built at the place where the camellia was planted, named Camellia Temple. During the late Qing Dynasty, the Camellia Temple was destroyed, but the legend about the camellia is still praised and passed down to this day!
Camellia braves wind and snow, fears no harsh environment, and can bloom undefeated for a long time in severe winter. The fighting people all praise it as the flower of victory.
Camellia is called the flower of victory, and there is another legend: Wu Sangui, a commander under Chongzhen, the last emperor of the Ming Dynasty, guarded Shanhaiguan. The peasant rebel army led by Li Zicheng captured Beijing, and Emperor Chongzhen hanged himself at Meishan. Wu Sangui surrendered to the Qing army and brought in the Qing army, suppressed the peasant rebel army, served as vanguard, killed the Ming Prince of Gui, and the Qing appointed him Prince of Pingxi to guard Yunnan. In Yunnan, Wu Sangui acted tyrannically, built a palace on Wuhua Mountain, constructed Axiang Garden, and issued an order for all parts of Yunnan to present rare flowers and exotic grasses. In Luliang County, there was a camellia at Puji Temple, more than two zhang tall, with flowers having nine stamens and eighteen petals and a rich fragrance overflowing, a rare treasure of the world. When the Luliang County magistrate saw the decree, he went to Puji Temple and forced the residents near the temple to dig up the tea tree. The villagers refused, and it remained until dark. No one moved a spade. That night, an elderly man of high prestige in the village saw a beautiful girl walk over, holding a blooming camellia in her hand, and say to the old man: "The villagers love me and cultivate me; my flowers open only for the fellow villagers. Wu Sangui need not think of seeing me even once. You cannot keep me, and insisting on resisting the order will make the common people suffer. Better to let that county magistrate send me away; I have my own way to deal with them and will surely return in victory." The old man reached out to hold the girl's hand, then woke with a start; it had been a dream.
The next day, the old man told the villagers about his dream. Everyone believed that the Camellia Fairy had sent the dream, so they decided to follow her advice. The county magistrate personally escorted the villagers in delivering the tea tree to Wu Sangui's Axiang Garden. But no sooner had the tea tree been set down than a loud "hua" was heard, and all the leaves fell off the tea tree. Wu Sangui flew into a rage and blamed the county magistrate for not protecting it properly along the way. A advisor said, "Being exposed to the sun all the way, this often happens, but if planted it can still survive." When spring came, the tea tree grew a full set of leaves, but it simply would not bloom. Wu Sangui lashed the tea tree with his whip, leaving a scar. The following spring, Wu Sangui brought his many concubines to Axiang Garden to admire the flowers. Seeing only a few thin, small camellia blooms, Wu Sangui said furiously, "What kind of world-famous flower is this!" He raised his whip and lashed again, leaving a second scar on the tea tree trunk. In the third spring, Wu Sangui saw that the garden was all withered, with no flowers blooming at all, and a crow was perched on the tea tree, cawing straight at him. Wu Sangui's anger flared up, and he swung his whip at the tea tree again, and blood seeped from the second scar. Wu Sangui ordered the gardener arrested and punished. To save the gardener, the Camellia Fairy, disregarding her own wounds and pain, came into Wu Sangui's dream and sang: Sangui, Sangui, do not stay intoxicated; blame not the Flower Queen, blame your own folly. I was born a common woman, seeking no wealth or rank, I only want to return home, to spend my poor years. Wu Sangui raised his precious sword and slashed at the Camellia Fairy. With a "kacha" sound, the sword struck the Nine-Dragon Chair, cutting off a blood-dripping dragon head. The Camellia Fairy sneered and sang again: Your soul is base and low, your reputation stinks. Betraying your lord for glory, you are no better than foxes and dogs! You have vainly built palaces and gardens, staining the throne with blood. Heaven is angry and people resent you; disaster will surely fall. Hearing this, Wu Sangui broke into a cold sweat of fear, and he summoned a dream-interpreting advisor to ask about good or ill fortune. The advisor said, "The ancients said, fortune is what disaster leans upon, and disaster is what fortune hides within. The tea tree is a lowly species; entering the palace brings disaster, leaving the palace brings fortune. Better to banish it back to its original home, to escape disaster and gain fortune." Wu Sangui thought this reasonable, so he sent the tea tree back to Luliang.
When the tea tree returned to the village, all the men and women, old and young, came out to welcome it. Everyone touched the whip scars on the trunk, overcome with mixed sorrow and joy, and shed tears of excitement. That night, the villagers had the same dream: the Camellia Fairy said to them all, "To struggle against the enemy, you must be patient and resilient. Though I am covered in scars, I have finally returned, and I am the victor." From then on, in Yunnan, the camellia was called the Flower of Victory, and when the camellia blooms, it always displays people's joy at the victory of their struggle.
Related Poetry and Prose: Camellia at Shaobo Fanxing Temple
(Song Dynasty) Su Shi
Camellias face each other, who planted them, I know not; in fine rain, with no one else, I come alone.
I try to tell you of it, but you do not understand; brilliant red as fire, they bloom in the snow.
Camellia
(Southern Song Dynasty) Lu You
In the east garden, three days of rain and wind; peach and plum blossoms scatter and are swept empty to the ground.
Only the camellia endures so well; in the green thicket, a few red branches bloom again.
Camellia
(Tang and Five Dynasties) Guan Xiu
Wind-tailored and sun-dyed, they bloom in the immortal garden; all other flowers' colors die, and the orangutan-blood red stands out.
Today a single blossom falls before the steps; there must be someone watching who resents Sun Xiu.
Kaiyuan Temple formerly had no flowers, this year they bloom abundantly
(Song Dynasty) Su Shi
Beneath the ever-burning lamp and the stone railing, together with pines and firs it keeps watch through the cold of the year.
Its leaves are thick and angular, sturdy as rhinoceros armor; its flowers are deep-hued and modest in form, red as a crane's head.
Long has it accompanied the abbot's mandala rain; ashamed it faces the master's alfalfa plate.
Blooming so abundantly, I know it has a purpose; next year when it blooms again, who will be here to see?
White Camellia
(Ming Dynasty) Shen Zhou
Rhinoceros-armor leaves brave the cold, heavy and green; where the jade cup is held aloft, the dew is thick.
When can I borrow the wine of longevity for it? I fear only the Camellia Fairy will not permit it.
Camellia
(Qing Dynasty) Liu Hao
Braving the cold, it rivals the elegance of pines and bamboo; putting forth its brilliance, it vainly startles at the passing of the years.
Amid the swirling ice and snow, its true nature remains; its roots and trunk are old and large, rare in the garden.
November Camellia
(Tang Dynasty) Bai Juyi
As if in heavy makeup emerging from crimson gauze, a trail of light reflects the morning glow.
Sending forth fragrance and beauty, how much spring it brings, like a true red flower that endures.
The Language of Camellia Flowers
Ideal Love - Modesty
Family: Theaceae
Origin: China
Flower colors: peach red, red, white
Flowering period: late autumn to winter
Also known as: Hime Tsubaki
The camellia was named by a German botanist and promoted throughout the world.
It always blooms quietly in the courtyard when the late autumn weather turns slightly cool. The camellia does not drop its whole flower like the camellia japonica; instead, its petals wither one by one, slowly, until life ends. Is not that careful way of withering just like people's attitude in pursuing an ideal partner? So gradually the camellia became the spokesperson for expressing feelings to a woman one admires in one's heart. In winter, when almost all flowers have withered, the red camellia seems especially warm and full of life. Moreover, planted in a courtyard, it also lets people enjoy her faint floral fragrance. Lovable, modest, ideal love, cautious, remarkable charm
Camellia (white): pure and innocent
Camellia (red): naturally beautiful
White Camellia (Camellia): reserved
Flower Divination: You are a gentle and emotional person, and you have a strong will. Deep in your heart you hide passion and long for love. Even so, you will not take an aggressive approach to confess to the other person. After you have set your sights on the target, you will pursue the other person step by step, and then your inner passion will slowly be aroused.
Flower Motto: Never rush into marriage; wait until love has matured.
Camellia Pictures