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How to grow Cleome hassleriana? Daily care and pest and disease control methods

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Today the editor of Huinong Network will talk to you about the cultivation and management techniques of Cleome hassleriana, and this article mainly focuses on how to extend the ornamental period of the potted herbaceous flower variety Cleome hassleriana and dwarf it

Today the editor of Huinong Network will talk to you about the cultivation and management techniques of Cleome hassleriana, and this article mainly focuses on how to extend the ornamental period of the potted herbaceous flower variety Cleome hassleriana and dwarf it.

1 Preparation before sowing

1.1 Germination promotion

On May 1, soak the seeds in warm water at 28°C for 5 hours; after the seeds fully absorb water and swell, place them in a light incubator at 4°C for low-temperature treatment for 5 days; one week later, on May 7, 95% of the seeds have "broken white" and sowing begins.

1.2 Seedbed preparation

Select a plot with high and dry terrain, cool and ventilated conditions, good drainage, and loose, fertile soil to prepare a 120 sq m seedbed, build a greenhouse, cover it with a shade net for shading, and cover the entire greenhouse with insect-proof netting; on May 5, fill 288-cell trays with special flower nutrient soil, with the nutrient soil 1 cm below the tray surface.

2 Sowing

Sow on the morning of May 7, 1 to 2 seeds per cell, evenly sown in the center of the cell; after all are sown, evenly scatter about 1 cm of nutrient soil, water thoroughly, and then cover the surface with newspaper to retain moisture.

3 Seedling stage management

On May 10, the seedlings emerge completely; remove the greenhouse coverings, let the seedlings receive full light on sunny days, cover the greenhouse with film on rainy days, and keep the soil moist during the seedling stage; 1 to 2 days after emergence, promptly remove weak seedlings, leaving 1 plant per cell; on May 23, when the seedlings have 3 true leaves, carry out seedling hardening; on May 25, water once thoroughly, ready for transplanting.

4 Field land preparation and fertilization

In late April, level the plot and carry out land preparation and fertilization. Apply 1000 kg/667 sq m of decomposed barnyard manure, and apply water-soluble ternary compound fertilizer with N:P:K = 15:15:15 at 50 kg/667 sq m combined with harrowing, mixing it evenly with the soil; when making beds, form shallow-furrow flat beds as needed; prepare the land and make beds, and cover with black plastic film.

5 Transplanting

Transplant on May 27; after transplanting, cover the soil up to the cotyledons, and water with rooting water; row spacing 35 cm, plant spacing 40 cm, about 4000 plants/667 sq m.

6 Field management

On June 15, when the seedlings have 8 to 10 true leaves, irrigate once with a 1000-fold solution of water-soluble ternary compound fertilizer (N:P:K=10:30:20); on June 30, irrigate once with a 1000-fold solution of water-soluble ternary compound fertilizer (N:P:K=10:30:20) to promote reproductive growth of the plants. Supply sufficient water throughout the growing period and keep the soil moist; during bud formation and flowering, topdress with ternary compound fertilizer (N:P:K = 15:15:15) 1 to 2 times, 10 kg/667 sq m each time, once every half month, and water normally to keep the soil moist; during the growing period, control watering and topdressing to prevent excessive vegetative growth and affect flowering.

7 Regulating plant shape

2 pinching and spraying 400 mg/L paclobutrazol once 1 week before flowering gives the best effect, and the ornamental period can reach 114 days.

8 Pest and disease control

For leaf spot, spray 600-fold 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder for control 2 times; for rust, spray 1500-fold 50% carboxin wettable powder for control 2 times; when Lepidoptera pests appear at the seedling stage, use 800-fold 10% avermectin wettable powder for foliar spraying 2 times; during the growing period, use 700-fold 10% imidacloprid wettable powder, 800-fold 5% cascade emulsifiable concentrate, and 600-fold Bacillus thuringiensis insecticide alternately to control diamondback moth, cabbage caterpillar, aphids and other pests 3 times.

9 Harvest

Harvest the plants before the first frost arrives at the end of November; after the seeds mature successively, harvest them in stages; after harvesting, dry the fruits in the sun and rub the seeds gently so they separate completely from the fruits, then dry them in the sun and bag them; if seeds are not to be kept, promptly cut off the spent flowers after flowering so they do not set seed, reducing nutrient consumption to help extend the flowering period; crush the stalks and plow them into the ground as green manure.

That is all for today's content. If farmer friends are interested in the cultivation techniques of Cleome hassleriana, you are welcome to leave comments below on Huinong Network.

Key points for autumn care of courtyard flowers

Key points for autumn care of courtyard flowers

(1) Characteristics of the autumn climate. According to traditional Chinese custom, around August 8 on the Gregorian calendar is the day of "Start of Autumn" in the Chinese lunar calendar, which means that from this day until before "Start of Winter" in early November is "autumn."

In East China, the average daily temperature in autumn is generally between 10 to 22°C, which is favorable for plant growth. But autumn is also a transitional season from summer to winter, with relatively large temperature changes. In early autumn, the highest temperature is still above 30°C, and can even reach 35°C; in late autumn, the lowest temperature is below 0°C.

In this season, the warm, moist southeast wind from the Pacific Ocean will gradually be replaced by the cold, dry northwest wind from the northwestern plateau. When the northwest wind forms and breaks out southward, the surface atmosphere is controlled by cold air, while the upper layer is controlled by subtropical airflow, forming clear, crisp autumn weather.

Autumn is also an important turning point in plant growth. Many herbaceous flowers have passed their flowering period, their seeds have matured, and their life cycle has ended, requiring seed collection and sowing to prepare for the next life cycle. The growth of perennial flowers and trees begins to slow or stop, and some trees begin to shed leaves and will enter dormancy to pass the cold winter. Another group of winter flowers that go dormant in summer, such as Cyclamen persicum, Primula, and Zantedeschia aethiopica, begin to revive and enter a new peak growth period, so water and fertilizer must be kept up.

(2) Daily management of autumn flowers

① Management methods: In autumn, for flower growers, in addition to continuing summer watering, fertilizing, and other routine management, there are many "special" things to do as the climate changes.

Early autumn: At this time, the high temperatures of summer have not completely receded, especially the high temperatures at noon, which are still a threat to flowers and trees. Therefore, the summer shade curtains should not be removed hastily; just open the curtains in the morning and evening for light and ventilation, and keep shading at other times. Some flowers need even more special attention.

For orchids, maintain a moist and cool environment; it is best to spray water 2 to 3 times a day, with the spray in mist form, until the leaf surface is moist. Sprinkle more water on the balcony, ground, or sand bed to help lower the temperature and prevent the threat of the "autumn tiger."

For lotus grown in vats in summer, although its beautiful appearance is gone, it should still be guaranteed sufficient water and light. Once the lotus seedpod matures, it can be picked off so the lotus root continues to grow and ensures abundant flowering next year.

For kumquat, an excellent winter fruit-viewing plant, when it blooms for the third time, do not let rainwater fall directly on the flowers, to ensure the fruit-setting rate.

Rhododendron flower buds are differentiating; reduce watering and increase phosphorus fertilizer to ensure vigorous flowering next spring.

Cyclamen persicum and adult Clivia miniata can be repotted and given fresh soil to ensure the potting soil is loose and has sufficient nutrients, preventing blind flowers or stuck flower arrows.

Pelargonium, the pride of the balcony, after a summer of continuous growth and flowering, also needs repotting and fresh soil, as well as branch cutting and shaping. Branch cutting means cutting off the flowering branches, leaving only stubs about 10 cm high at the base, to promote the sprouting of new branches and maintain a robust and beautiful plant shape. Within 1 week after cutting, do not water or fertilize to prevent infection of the cut.

For chrysanthemums, do the final pinching and apply more topdressing until flower bud differentiation.

Mid-autumn: At this time, sunlight gradually weakens, the summer heat has dissipated, and the temperature drops noticeably. For flowers and trees shaded in summer, gradually reduce shading time or remove the curtains.

As the temperature drops and sunlight weakens, the water and fertilizer consumption of ordinary flowers and trees also decreases accordingly. The frequency of watering can be changed from twice daily in summer to once every 1 to 2 days or once every 2 to 3 days, and the frequency of fertilizing can also be changed from 1 to 2 times per week to once every 1 to 2 weeks.

At the same time, the following matters also need special attention:

First, after Camellia japonica forms buds, apply phosphorus fertilizer once to ensure bright flowering the following year.

Second, after Zantedeschia aethiopica goes dormant, new leaves are just emerging; pay special attention when watering, and do not pour water into the leaf sheaths to prevent rot.

Third, for kumquat, the "good fruit of the New Year," fertilize frequently; a mixture of decomposed soybean cake water and bone water or turtle intestine is best, ensuring sufficient water and fertilizer so it bears abundant fruit.

Fourth, early September is the suitable time for artificial hybridization of dahlia, and artificial pollination should be carried out promptly.

Fifth, for stump bonsai such as Sageretia thea, Ulmus, and Celtis, this is an important time for shaping and training; leaves can be picked and branches bent, and thin fertilizer applied to promote new leaves; after the leaves are even, prune again into flat layers.

Late autumn: Cold Dew is around October 8, and Frost's Descent is around October 24. Sunshine gradually shortens, autumn colors appear fully, and the average daily temperature is generally below 10°C. Once a cold wave arrives, nighttime temperatures can drop below 0°C, with frost or frost damage. At this time, be sure to pay attention to weather forecasts at all times and promptly do the work of moving flowers and trees indoors and protecting them from the cold.

In late autumn, the timing of moving plants indoors must be well controlled, moving flowers and trees placed on balconies or in the open to indoor overwintering, commonly called "moving indoors." Whether the timing of moving indoors is accurate has a great bearing on the safe overwintering of flowers and trees. If moved indoors too early, the indoor temperature is too high; if moved indoors too late, the flowers and trees will suffer cold damage and may even freeze to death. Therefore, for flower growers, "moving indoors" is also a major matter and cannot be treated carelessly. Moving indoors should be carried out in batches according to the different temperature requirements of different types of flowers and trees.

Tropical flowers and trees such as Aglaia odorata, Dracaena sanderiana, Dracaena fragrans, Cordyline fruticosa, and Codiaeum variegatum, commonly called high-temperature-type flowers and trees, have the weakest cold resistance. Generally, when the normal temperature is below 10°C, they are prone to cold damage, with mild cases involving leaf, flower, and fruit drop and shoot tip damage, and severe cases resulting in death. Therefore, such flowers and trees are best sent to a greenhouse for fostering before winter arrives. For those that cannot be fostered, move them indoors before the temperature falls below 10°C, place them in a warm, sunny spot, open windows at noon on sunny days for ventilation, and when cold currents arrive, use insulation measures such as double potting and plastic bag covering; in the coldest weather, heating measures are needed.

Carnation, Clivia miniata, Asparagus setaceus, Jasminum sambac, and cacti and succulents, commonly called medium-temperature-type flowers and trees, are difficult to protect against low temperatures below 5°C. Therefore, when the nighttime minimum temperature is 5°C, they should be moved indoors. When the weather is too cold, bag protection is also needed.

Camellia japonica, Rhododendron, orchids, Cycas revoluta, and Michelia figo have relatively good cold tolerance; if there is no frost or rain and snow, there is no need to rush to move them indoors. But if the low temperature is below 0°C, they should be moved indoors and placed in a south-facing room, where they can generally overwinter safely.

Five-needle pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Malus spectabilis, Rosa chinensis, and the like are commonly called low-temperature-type flowers and trees and have relatively good cold tolerance. Generally they do not need to be moved indoors; simply place them outdoors in a warm, sunny spot. Once severe frost or rain and snow occurs, temporarily set up straw curtains for protection.

Management after flowers and trees are moved indoors is also very important. After flowers and trees are moved indoors, water consumption decreases. Generally, small pots should be watered once a week, and larger pots once every 1 to 2 weeks. If the potting soil is not very dry, the watering interval can be extended further. In addition to winter-flowering flowers and trees such as Strelitzia reginae, Cyclamen persicum, and Clivia miniata, which need sufficient water and fertilizer and additional phosphorus fertilizer, autumn-sown herbaceous flowers that will bloom in early spring next year also need frequent fertilizer and sufficient water. For ordinary flowers and trees moved indoors to avoid the cold, it is only necessary to fertilize once every 1 to 2 months or simply stop fertilizing, so as to avoid excessive fertilizer causing excessive growth and reducing cold resistance.

October is the best season for transplanting or dividing Cymbidium goeringii; orchid growers must not miss this opportunity. At this time, the growth of orchids is relatively weakened, and if the flower buds are not damaged during operation, flowering next year will not be affected. To make division easier, watering can be controlled several days before division to let the potting soil dry appropriately, making the roots whitish and softer, so the roots are less likely to break during transplanting or division. But do not let it become too dry; being too dry is also unfavorable for orchid growth.

② Autumn harvest and autumn sowing: Autumn is also the season for propagating seedlings. As the saying goes, spring flowers are sown in autumn. Large numbers of spring flowers such as Pericallis hybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Viola tricolor, and Papaver rhoeas need to be sown at this time, and seedling-stage management must be done well.

As the saying goes, good seeds produce good seedlings, and sowing must begin with seed collection. How can the best seeds be obtained? Generally speaking, during the full flowering period of flowers and trees, the climate is suitable and nutrients are sufficient, so the seeds produced are naturally of better quality. Therefore, mastering the accurate seed collection time is the first rule. Of course, even among the same batch of seeds, there will be individual differences. For seeds used for home flower growing, the amount needed is not too large, so a seed-by-seed selection method can be used, keeping those seeds that are well developed, regular in shape, and plump and full.

According to the different maturation times of different seeds, we can harvest the following seeds in each period.

Seed collection: In early autumn, seeds that can be harvested include tree peony, Portulaca grandiflora, Zephyranthes candida, Iris, Cercis chinensis, Spiraea cantoniensis, Quamoclit pennata, Lilium, Mimosa pudica, Centella asiatica, Nymphaea, Coreopsis, and lotus. In mid-autumn, seeds that can be harvested include Quamoclit pennata, Ipomoea, Platycodon grandiflorus, Zinnia elegans, Cleome hassleriana, Iris, Petunia, Paeonia lactiflora, Malva, Amaranthus tricolor, Abelmoschus manihot, Emilia sonchifolia, Helichrysum bracteatum, Catharanthus roseus, Celosia argentea, Mimosa pudica, Canna, Lilium pumilum, and Lychnis senno. In late autumn, seeds that can be harvested include Ipomoea, Cosmos, Abelmoschus esculentus, Hosta, Tagetes erecta, Salvia splendens, Mirabilis jalapa, Magnolia denudata, Tecoma, Wisteria, Weigela, Camellia, Lagerstroemia indica, Cucurbita, Capsicum annuum, Callistephus chinensis, Lycoris radiata, Kniphofia, Anemone hupehensis, Sinojackia xylocarpa, Cornus officinalis, and Lycium chinense.

Different seeds vary greatly in lifespan. Some need to be stored for a period of time and fully dormant before they germinate, such as Sinojackia xylocarpa. Some need to be sown immediately after collection, otherwise their germination rate will decrease, such as seeds of tree peony and Paeonia lactiflora, which must be sown immediately after harvest or stored in sand. For example, lotus seeds must be stored in water. Generally, after flower and tree seeds are collected and dried, they are put into small paper bags or cloth bags respectively, stored on top of cabinets or in drawers, and taken out for use when sowing.   

Sowing: In early autumn, flowers and trees suitable for sowing include tree peony, Primula, Pericallis hybrida, Alcea rosea, Dianthus, Calendula officinalis, Viola tricolor, Bellis perennis, Antirrhinum, Campanula, Matthiola, and Cheiranthus cheiri. In mid-autumn, flowers and trees suitable for sowing include Hosta, Platycodon grandiflorus, Callistephus chinensis, and Centaurea   

cyanus, Calendula officinalis, Alcea rosea, Malva, Matthiola, Petunia, Antirrhinum, Primula, Tropaeolum majus, Verbena, Viola tricolor, Pericallis hybrida, and Cyclamen persicum. In late autumn, sowing of biennial herbaceous flowers should already be finished, and a small number of perennial woody or bulbous flowers and trees, such as Cyclamen persicum and Nandina domestica, can be sown in pots.   

Autumn sowing can be divided into two methods: open-field sowing and indoor sowing. For cold-hardy herbaceous flowers such as Bellis perennis, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, and Viola tricolor, open-field sowing is generally suitable, with the same method as spring sowing. For flowers less tolerant of cold such as Primula, Cyclamen persicum, and Clivia miniata, indoor sowing is used. Indoor sowing containers can be sowing boxes or sowing pots. General-purpose sowing boxes are nailed together from wooden strips, about 10 cm high, with length and width of 40 to 60 cm. If there is a suitably sized packaging box at home, it can also be used instead. A sowing pot is a clay pot with a mouth diameter of 30 cm, height of 10 cm, and many round holes in the bottom (available at flower markets). The specific operation steps for sowing are as follows:

Step 1: First cover the round holes in the bottom of the pot with broken tile pieces, and lay a layer of broken tile granules at the bottom (break broken clay pots into bean-sized granules) or coal cinders and charcoal crumbs, 3 to 4 cm thick, to facilitate drainage.   

Step 2: Fill the upper part with sterilized culture soil (usually mixed from 3 parts humus soil, 1 part garden soil, and 1 part sand), filling to a height 1 cm below the pot mouth, and gently pat flat with a pressing board.

Step 3: Sow the seeds evenly. The sowing method can depend on the size of the seeds. For tiny seeds such as Primula, mix them with some culture soil, mix evenly, and scatter them evenly; for larger seeds such as Clivia miniata and Cyclamen persicum, place them one by one at a spacing of 1 to 2 cm, pressing slightly when placing so that half of each seed enters the soil and half is exposed, then sieve a layer of quartz sand over them with a fine sieve (at home, waste window screen can be used) to cover the seeds.

Step 4: Take an ordinary plastic basin, fill it half full with water, and put the sowing pot into the water so water slowly seeps into the pot from the bottom holes until the surface is entirely moist, then take it out, place it in a ventilated, shaded spot on the balcony, cover with glass, and keep warm and moist. Be careful to turn the covering glass every day so that the condensed water on its surface evaporates, and leave a small gap for the potting soil to breathe. If the potting soil dries, spray a little water. After the seedlings emerge, gradually remove the covering glass, then gradually move them to a place with sufficient sunlight (note: gradually, not suddenly placing them under strong sun, otherwise they will be scorched). According to whether the potting soil is dry or wet, water promptly with a fine watering can. After the seedlings produce true leaves, use a fine bamboo stick to gently remove seedlings that are too dense and those growing poorly, leaving strong, uniform good seedlings. When the seedlings have 3 to 4 true leaves, they should be transplanted into pots.

Methods for disinfecting culture soil include a special oven. At home, sterilized bagged culture soil can be purchased; the soil can also be spread flat on concrete on a rooftop on a sunny day and exposed for 1 to 2 days; or put into an iron wok and stir-fried over high heat for half an hour; 0.5% potassium permanganate water can also be sprayed on the soil, then covered tightly with plastic film for half a day, the plastic film removed, and used after 1 week. When sowing, to prevent dust from flying, a small amount of water can first be sprayed into the culture soil to make it slightly moist, but water must never be excessive, otherwise the soil becomes sticky and difficult to work with.

Most herbaceous flower seeds can be sown directly before sowing without any treatment. However, some seeds have thick, hard seed coats or a waxy quality, such as Cyclamen persicum, and it is best to carry out pre-sowing treatment to promote germination and sterilization. The treatment method is soaking in water. For seeds with thicker seed coats, warm water can be used (water temperature about 60°C), and the soaking time is generally 24 hours; after sowing, spray more water to keep them moist. In addition, for seeds with hard seed coats such as lotus, one end of the seed coat can be filed open with a file, then soaked. For seeds purchased from other places, in order to prevent diseases infecting the seeds from spreading locally, soak them in 0.5% potassium permanganate or 0.3% copper sulfate solution for 5 minutes, then take them out, rinse clean with clear water, and sow.

Some herbaceous flowers, such as Primula, Calceolaria, and Pericallis hybrida, need transplanting after sowing. Some, however, are not suitable for transplanting, such as Papaver rhoeas and Eschscholzia californica; these flowers and trees have overly delicate root systems and grow poorly after transplanting, so when the seedlings first put out true leaves, they must be potted into small pots 13 cm in diameter, and after they grow a little larger, removed from the pots and planted in place, or the direct sowing method can be used.

(3) Pest and disease control for autumn flowers. High temperatures and dryness in autumn make it a season of high incidence for flower spot disease and powdery mildew.

Spot disease is caused by fungi and includes black spot, brown spot, and red spot, often occurring on leaves and fruits. In the early stage of disease, round patches of varying sizes can be seen on leaves or fruits, turning from green to yellow, with a clear outline around the edge. Mold layers or small black grains often appear on the spots, and the diseased part necroses in the later stage.

Powdery mildew is also caused by powdery mildew fungi and mostly occurs on leaves, young fruits, and tender branches. The lesions are nearly round, with a thin layer of white powder on top; later, many needle-head-sized yellowish-brown granules are scattered on the white powder layer. Removing the white powder layer reveals yellow spots, the symptoms of damaged plant tissue. Rosa chinensis, dahlia, and others are prone to this disease.

The fundamental method for preventing and controlling the above diseases is to pay attention to hygiene, thoroughly eliminate the source of disease, and promptly clean up dead branches and fallen leaves inside and outside flower pots and on balconies and courtyards. If a large number of flowers is grown, 500 to 1000-fold 50% carbendazim wettable powder can be used for spray disinfection. Those growing Paeonia lactiflora, tree peony, chrysanthemum, and carnation can also spray 120 to 160-fold equal-strength Bordeaux mixture once every 10 days, which can prevent peony red spot disease, carnation leaf spot disease, and chrysanthemum brown spot disease.

In addition, applying more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to flowers and trees to enhance disease resistance is also an effective method. At the same time, pests such as aphids, red spider mites, and whiteflies are also likely to occur at this time, so check plant by plant. Once found, immediately catch them carefully by hand. When the number is large, spray dimethoate and omethoate to kill them.

Before flowers and trees are moved indoors in late autumn, check even more carefully pot by pot and branch by branch. If there are scale insect eggs on branches or trunks, immediately scrape them clean with a bamboo strip. Aphids are relatively large and easy to find, while red spider mites are extremely small and mostly on the underside of leaves, hard to notice. Therefore, check the underside of leaves plant by plant. If small white dots are found, immediately spray with a dimethoate preparation to kill them, or wash with tobacco infusion (about 20 cigarette butts soaked in a bowl of water for 24 hours, then mixed with some soapy water or washing powder), and rinse clean with clear water after washing.

If fertilizer and water and everything else are normal, but the plant seems to grow poorly, you should suspect whether there are pests harming it in the soil. The simplest and most effective method is to repot and inspect, checking whether there are cutworms, ants, earthworms, etc. in the soil, and if so, remove them promptly. When repotting, mix some carbofuran into the soil (for a flower pot with a diameter of 20 cm, about one small plastic spoon), or use 2 tablets of "Baihualing" tablets sold in stores, crushed and mixed into the soil, which also has a good disinfecting and insect-killing effect.

At this point it should be specially noted that in home flower growing, pests and diseases should be checked frequently, discovered early, and controlled promptly, using manual capture or water washing as much as possible. When pesticides must be used, non-toxic and low-toxicity pesticides should be used as much as possible, and spraying pesticides indoors is absolutely prohibited.

Care measures for the southern plant Phoenix dactylifera

Part One: "Southern Plant Compilation"

Plumeria

Plumeria, its flowers really look like eggs, milky white on the outside and bright yellow in the center, just like egg white and yolk, and they are really cute. Its branches are thick and fleshy. The leaves are also large, and the flowers and leaves cluster at the top of the branches. Plumeria blooms brilliantly in summer, giving people a feeling of purity and elegant temperament, and it is very suitable for careful viewing. After the leaves fall, the bare trunk curves naturally, and its shape is very beautiful. It is very suitable for planting in courtyards and lawns. Plumeria likes a high-temperature, high-humidity environment with sufficient sunlight and good drainage. It is robust by nature and can tolerate drought, but it fears cold and waterlogging. It likes to grow in acidic soil but is also resistant to alkalinity. Cultivation is best with deep, fertile, well-aerated acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter. Propagation uses the cutting method. When planting Plumeria, attention should also be paid to pest and disease control. For example, if small brown spots appear on leaves or even the leaves turn dark black, that is Plumeria angular leaf spot, and you should pay attention to taking measures. Of course, there may also be other diseases, so Plumeria needs your care and attention. In fact, besides white, Plumeria also comes in red and yellow varieties, all of which can be used to extract essence for making high-grade cosmetics, soap, and food additives, with a rather high price and great commercial development potential; the fresh flowers can also be dried for tea, commonly known as Plumeria tea, which has the effects of treating dysentery with heat and moistening the lungs and detoxifying. The Plumeria tree is beautiful in form, with many branches on the stem, strange shapes, and countless postures; the leaves resemble loquat, and after they fall in winter, semicircular leaf scars remain on the branch tips, much like deer antlers decorated with beautiful spots, making it a top-choice small tree for tropical landscaping, courtyard arrangement, and potted viewing. The bark is thin and grayish-green, rich in toxic white latex, which can be used externally to treat scabies, redness and swelling, and other conditions. The wood is white, light and soft, and can be made into musical instruments, tableware, or furniture. Plumeria flower meaning: breeding hope, resurrection, rebirth, as simple and ordinary as life, so it can always be so close to people, without distance.

Magnolia denudata

Magnolia denudata is a tall deciduous tree, with dark gray bark, rough and cracked; branchlets slightly stout, grayish-brown; winter buds and flower stalks densely covered with light grayish-yellow long silky hairs. Leaves papery, obovate, broadly obovate, or obovate-elliptic, with the base of vigorous shoots having elliptic leaves. Magnolia flowers are very much like lotus flowers; when in full bloom, the petals spread in all directions, making the courtyard appear in patches of blue-white, dazzling white, with high ornamental value; together with waves of delicate fragrance that refresh the heart, it is truly an ideal flower type for beautifying courtyards. Magnolia denudata likes light and is relatively cold-tolerant; it can overwinter in the open field. It loves dryness and avoids low humidity; waterlogging at the planting site easily causes root rot. It likes fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy soil, and can also grow in weakly alkaline soil. In the warmer south, it can bloom from December to January of the following year. Magnolia denudata has strong resistance to harmful gases. If this flower is planted in factories polluted by sulfur dioxide and chlorine gas, it has a certain resistance and sulfur-absorbing capacity. In artificial fumigation with sulfur dioxide, 1 kg of dry leaves can absorb more than 1.6 grams of sulfur. Therefore, Magnolia denudata is a very good pollution-resistant landscaping tree species for areas with atmospheric pollution. Magnolia denudata likes light; young trees are relatively shade-tolerant and not tolerant of strong light and west exposure. Too strong light or west exposure can easily scorch the trees. Magnolia denudata likes fertilizer. In addition to applying base fertilizer at planting, it should be fertilized every year thereafter. Sufficient fertilizer can make the plant grow vigorously with lush, thick green leaves, not only producing many buds but also large flowers, a long flowering period, and rich fragrance. Magnolia denudata is a tree species with relatively strong disease resistance; its main diseases include anthracnose, chlorosis, and leaf scorch. Besides ornamental value, Magnolia denudata also has medicinal and edible value. Magnolia flowers contain volatile oil, mainly citral, clove oil acid, etc., and also contain magnolia alkaloids, alkaloids, yulan magnolia element, capric acid, rutin, oleic acid, vitamin A, and other components, with certain medicinal value. Magnolia flowers are pungent and warm in nature and flavor, with the effects of dispelling wind and cold, opening the orifices, and dispersing lung qi and unblocking the nose. They can be used for headache, blood-stasis-type dysmenorrhea, nasal congestion, acute and chronic sinusitis, allergic rhinitis, and other conditions. Modern pharmacological studies show that Magnolia flowers have an inhibitory effect on common skin fungi.

Magnolia flowers are rich in vitamins, amino acids, and various trace elements, and have the effects of dispelling wind and cold and regulating qi and the lungs. They can be processed into snacks and can also be brewed as tea. Magnolia flower meaning represents repaying kindness. Magnolia often opens large white flowers amid lush greenery, and with its fragrant scent it gives people an indescribable temperament, truly fresh and lovely. Because the plant is tall and the flowering position is relatively high, it sways in the wind, full of spirit, like a heavenly maiden scattering flowers, very lovely.

Maranta

Maranta is an herbaceous plant. Most varieties have underground rhizomes or tubers, with single, relatively large leaves, ovate or ovate-lanceolate, with veins arranged in a feathered pattern, two-ranked, and entire. Maranta is a good groundcover plant with diverse colors and is a very good foliage plant. Maranta is a tropical plant that likes warm, humid, and brightly lit environments. It is not cold-tolerant or drought-tolerant, and fears scorching sun. If exposed to direct sunlight, it will scorch the leaves, causing localized scorching at the leaf edges, stopping new leaf growth, and turning leaf color yellow. Therefore, shading should be noted in cultivation. Maranta is relatively sensitive to water. During the growing period, it should be watered sufficiently to keep the potting soil moist, but the soil should not become waterlogged, otherwise it will cause root rot and even plant death. Maranta is somewhat "delicate." It requires enough careful attention all 365 days; if the environment fluctuates greatly for a few days, it will leave "evidence of the crime" on the plant. This is the consensus of Maranta seedling traders and producers. Plants in the Marantaceae family do not have many pests and diseases, mainly scale insects, whiteflies, and the like. Of course, it also has other values, such as medicinal value and dietary value. Maranta starch is almost entirely starch, contains no vitamins, and has a protein content of only 0.2%. It can be used as a thickener for soups, sauces, puddings, and desserts. Add water and boil into a transparent, odorless, tasty paste. Maranta starch is fine in texture and, compared with other starches, can be cooked at lower temperatures and in shorter time, and is easy to digest. It is especially suitable for custards and other egg products that cannot be overcooked, and is also suitable for making light-flavored, low-salt, and low-protein foods. Effects: clears the lungs and stops cough, clears heat and promotes urination. Indications: used to treat cough due to lung heat and painful urination due to damp-heat in the bladder.

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum is an evergreen shrub or small tree. Bark dark gray or light grayish-brown, much branched. Young branches reddish-brown, densely covered with stellate hairs. Leaves leathery, alternate, ovate or elliptic, 2-5 cm long, apex shortly pointed, base rounded and oblique, asymmetrical, both surfaces with stellate hairs, entire, dark red. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum likes light and is slightly shade-tolerant, but in shade the leaf color easily turns green. Strong adaptability, drought-tolerant. Likes warmth, cold-tolerant. Strong sprouting and branching ability, tolerant of pruning. Tolerant of barren soil, but suitable for growing in fertile, moist, slightly acidic soil. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum has luxuriant branches and leaves, graceful posture, is tolerant of pruning and wiring, can be used for hedges, and can also be used to make stump bonsai. When it blooms, the whole tree is full of red flowers, extremely spectacular. Loropetalum is an evergreen plant, with new leaves bright red. Different strains have different leaf colors and flower colors at maturity, and leaf sizes also differ. In garden applications, the main considerations are the color contrast formed by differences in leaf color and leaf size, and the flowering periods can also be staggered. Main pests: aphids, geometrid moths, yellow noctuid moths, Daopanus noctuid moths, cutworms of various sizes, and scarab beetles, etc. Common diseases of Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum: anthracnose, damping-off, and mosaic disease. Anthracnose: mainly harms old leaves and basal leaves. Because the leaves themselves are red, the lesions appear as

black round spots, or nearly round, causing early leaf fall; damage is severe in the rainy season from July to August. The pathogen is Actinospore fungi. The pathogen overwinters as mycelium on diseased leaves and is the primary infection source for the disease the following year. When you find disease on the branches and leaves of Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, you must treat it promptly.

Ornamental peach

Ornamental peach is a variety of peach, a tree, 3-8 m tall; crown broad and spreading; bark dark reddish-brown, rough and scaly when old; branchlets slender, glabrous, glossy, green, turning red on the sunny side, with many small lenticels; winter buds conical, apex blunt, covered with short soft hairs, often clustered 2-3 together, with the middle one a leaf bud and the two sides flower buds. Leaves oblong-lanceolate, elliptic-lanceolate, or obovate-lanceolate. Ornamental peach likes sunlight and is drought-tolerant, not tolerant of humid environments. It likes a warm climate and has good cold tolerance, able to overwinter safely in a natural environment at minus 25°C. It requires fertile, well-drained soil. It does not like waterlogging; if planted in waterlogged low-lying places, seedlings easily die. Garden value: ornamental peach flowers are large and brightly colored, beautiful when blooming, with an ornamental period of as long as 15 days. In landscaping it is widely used by lakesides, streams, roadsides, parks, and so on. In small greening projects such as courtyard greening accents and private gardens, it is also used for potted viewing, and is often used for cut flowers and making bonsai. A common form is also weeping ornamental peach. Ornamental peach has a wide range of landscaping uses and outstanding greening effects, showing particularly good results in the year of planting. It can be planted in rows, in groups, or as solitary specimens, and shows particularly good greening effects in the year of planting. Ornamental peach is one of the commonly used colored seedlings in landscaping, and is usually used together with seedlings such as Prunus cerasifera and Prunus x cistena. When combined with flowering shrubs, it forms a scene of many flowers blooming together. Besides ornamental value, it also has medicinal value. The gum secreted from peach tree trunks, commonly known as peach gum, can be used as an adhesive and is a kind of polysaccharide substance; hydrolysis can produce arabinose, galactose, xylose, rhamnose, glucuronic acid, etc. It is edible and also used medicinally, with the effects of breaking blood, harmonizing blood, and benefiting qi. Diseases and pests often occur in summer and autumn. Its main diseases include white rust and brown rot, shot hole disease, anthracnose, gummosis, and leaf curl. Main pests include aphids, red spider mites, scale insects, and red-necked longhorn beetles, etc.

Artificial plant communities

1. Rhododendron indicum + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Euonymus japonicus 'Aureo-marginatus' + thornless Ilex cornuta ball

These four plants have strong adaptability and are relatively widely planted in Fuzhou. Three leaf-color plants are planted linearly, with rich leaf colors, plus large-specification thornless Ilex cornuta balls, forming a neat, full, and clearly layered roadside greening color band effect.

2. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Photinia x fraseri ball + Michelia figo + Acer palmatum

Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum itself is widely planted in Fujian and has good adaptability, and both its leaf color and flower color are very beautiful, while the Photinia x fraseri ball has green old leaves accented by red new leaves, setting each other off and extremely beautiful. The four plants are matched with rich layers and form a landscape road with longitudinal rhythm and spatial layers, and a strong sense of guidance.

3. Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Fatsia japonica + Phoenix canariensis + Plumeria

This combination of several plants is mainly green, with leaves both small (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum) and large (Fatsia japonica, Plumeria), while Phoenix canariensis adds a bit of tropical flavor. The layers are rich, with the effect of narrowing space, making people feel close to it.

4. Phyllostachys edulis + Iris

Phyllostachys edulis is very suitable for planting in Fuzhou. It is a scattered bamboo, with spacing between the culms. Iris has a graceful posture and gorgeous, varied flower colors. The two matched together are very charming.

5. Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans' + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Aucuba japonica + Osmanthus fragrans

Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans' has leaves like sparrow tongues and a low plant form, so it can be used as the lowest-layer plant. Aucuba japonica has yellow spots in its leaf color and is a relatively good foliage plant, while the tree Osmanthus fragrans has a delicate fragrance that refreshes the heart. The combination has density variation, changes in leaf color, and added floral fragrance.

6. Rhododendron pulchrum + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum + Fagraea ceilanica + Canna

Rhododendron pulchrum has gorgeous flowers, and with Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum and Fagraea ceilanica as a backdrop, it is even more moving. Canna has thick, large leaves, narrowing the space and making people feel close.

7. Groundcover lawn + Tagetes erecta + Photinia x fraseri + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum ball + Osmanthus fragrans var. aurantiacus

With green groundcover as the base, Tagetes erecta's bright yellow flowers are extremely beautiful; behind Tagetes erecta, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum and red Photinia serve as a backdrop, and Osmanthus fragrans var. aurantiacus has a spreading tree form. The several plants set each other off, with rich variation.

8. Ophiopogon japonicus + Psidium guajava tree

Both Ophiopogon japonicus and Psidium guajava tree adapt very well in Fuzhou and grow normally. The leaves are fine and soft, making Ophiopogon japonicus very suitable as groundcover. The Psidium guajava tree has smooth yellow bark, a graceful posture, and relatively large leaves with well-spaced density, making it very suitable for open woodland paths.

9. Lawn + Agave americana var. marginata + shaped Ficus + Senna bicapsularis

With green lawn as the base, Agave americana var. marginata has thick, large leaves, with leaf color alternating silver-yellow and green, and it is very harmonious when matched with shaped Ficus, while Senna bicapsularis has a beautiful posture and gorgeous flower color. This combination of several plants has rich layers, with color changes but harmony.

10. Liriope spicata + Rhapis excelsa + Dypsis lutescens + Carica papaya tree

This plant configuration is suitable for one side of a small building. Liriope spicata has fine, soft leaf shapes, while Rhapis excelsa and Dypsis lutescens have thicker, larger leaves, and Carica papaya has large palmate leaves, with its fruit borne on the main trunk, and its posture is very graceful.

11. Acalypha wilkesiana + Duranta erecta + Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum

As a plant combination for a carpet flower bed, Acalypha wilkesiana has bright leaf color and is used as the edge, Duranta erecta has yellow-green leaf color, and Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum has dark purple leaf color. The combination of the three plants as a carpet flower bed is extremely attractive.

Part Two: "Maintenance Plan 4"

Landscaping maintenance and management plan

Maintenance and management are very important in landscaping. It is a long-term, repeated task with relatively comprehensive technical requirements, including damage by people and livestock, sanitation and cleaning, pruning of flowers, grass, and trees, watering and fertilizing, pest and disease control, and planting flowers in flower beds. The completion of green space does not mean the completion of the landscape. People often say "three parts planting, seven parts management." Only with high-quality, high-level maintenance and management can the landscape gradually take shape and become perfect.

Current characteristics of the plants in the care area:

1. The green area covers about 24,541,900 sq m, with a high green coverage rate. There are large numbers of trees of different specifications and varieties and pruned shaped shrubs, and the initial growth has gradually taken shape. After our careful inspection, the planting characteristics can be roughly divided into two areas according to the original master plan:

1) Plaza area: The planting style in this area is relatively open. The plaza is mainly planted with ginkgo, Phoebe zhennan and large trees

in rows, appropriately combined with low shrubs, and the overall space is relatively transparent.

2) Factory area: The plant varieties in this area are complexly matched, with large and small trees, shrubs and groundcover plants interplanted.

At the entrance, relatively precious large plants (Canary Island date palm, jacaranda, small-leaf banyan stump,

premium osmanthus, etc.) are dominant. Whether the office-area courtyard can still maintain its elegant, refined, open and grand

scenery, and whether the hotel villa-area courtyard can still carry forward its delicate, gentle, leisurely and relaxed atmosphere,

all depends on later care and management.

2. From the greening conditions in the vertical area, we can find the following problems: ① Shaped shrubs are growing poorly and have monotonous shapes; ② Flowering shrubs are in poor condition, and their flowering status (including number of flowers, flower size, color and secondary flowering) is unsatisfactory; ③ The lawn has many weeds, and in some areas grass-family weeds show a tendency to spread unchecked; ④ There are pest and disease problems.

I. We plan to take the following corrective measures:

1. Promote three-dimensional gardening and carry out varied shaping of hedges and shrubs. For flowering shrubs planted as accents, take growth-promoting measures to encourage their growth and then shape them according to their form, which depends on the specific plant growth and plant shape. The hedges in some areas are highly regular; a neat, uniform long strip undoubtedly makes a courtyard that should be free and relaxed appear mechanical and rigid. We can likewise try pruning them into wave shapes to match the relaxed and leisurely landscaping of the residential area, enliven the atmosphere of the whole courtyard, and also create a more fluid living environment.

2. Immediately begin pest and disease control. For plants showing signs of pests and diseases, immediately carry out large-scale chemical control.

3、

4、

5. For lawn weeds, apply chemicals and increase the amount of manual weeding. For different plants, implement different care and management plans (mainly fertilizer supply: base fertilizer, topdressing and foliar fertilizer; different plants and different seasons all have different fertilization methods and fertilizer choices). Plant labeling. We classify and count all plants, then make green labels indicating their

family, genus, species and growth habits, and label all plants in the area. In this way, it can

enrich employees' general knowledge of plants, add to the cultural atmosphere of the area, and through eye-catching labeling

bring more attention to the greening.

6. Greening maintenance is not a matter of one morning or one evening. While doing the corrective work well, we will likewise

adopt different care and management measures for different plants at different times. We arrange our daily work by month

(detailed rules attached below), striving to make our work bring the landscape effect in the blueprint to its fullest, and

we also ask the client to offer more opinions so that our work can gradually become more perfect and complete.

7. Maintenance responsibilities

Within the contracted maintenance period, our company, in accordance with garden greening maintenance operating procedures and garden greening maintenance quality standards, organizes reasonably, maintains meticulously, and sends professional horticulturists to organize, guide and arrange the care and management work, and flexibly sends no fewer than experienced workers according to the weather in each season and plant growth conditions, to complete the maintenance and management tasks with guaranteed quality and quantity.

VI. Maintenance content

1. Management procedure: including watering, opening soil basins and earthing up, pruning, fertilizing, weeding, pruning and bud rubbing, pest and disease control, straightening, replanting (seedling costs calculated separately) and the whole process. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

2. Management tools:

A. Flower shears, long shears, high-altitude shears, grass shovels, lawn mowers

B. Sprayers, buckets, dump carts, bamboo baskets

C. Shovels, hoes, saws, electric saws, ladders

D. Fuel, repair costs

3. Maintenance content:

A. Trees: Apply organic fertilizer once a year, 0.25 kg of cake fertilizer per tree, and topdress once, applying 0.1 kg of compound fertilizer mixed with urea per tree, by hole application and spraying, water-soluble fertilizer, etc., then cover with soil, water thoroughly, with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, timely control pests and diseases, maintain the trees' natural growth state without shaping pruning, timely cut off yellow branches, pest- and disease-damaged branches, shaded leggy branches and drooping branches that obstruct vehicle passage, and timely clean up pruned material. Remove weeds around the tree roots once a week to ensure no weeds.

B. Shrubs, hedges, bag seedlings: Fertilize once each quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, by broadcast application and water-soluble fertilizer, etc., water once within three hours after application, water once a day (except rainy days), with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, timely control pests and diseases, prune into round, square or conical shapes, with minor pruning once a week and major pruning once a month, with smooth and attractive cuts, timely remove pruned material, timely cut off dead branches and pest- and disease-damaged branches, timely replant old, diseased and dead plants, and remove weeds once a week.

C. Herbaceous plants: Fertilize once each quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, by broadcast application and water-soluble fertilizer, etc., water once within three hours after application, water once a day (except rainy days), with water penetration depth of more than 10 cm, timely control pests and diseases, cut off spent flowers once a week, remove weeds once a week, and timely cut off dead and yellow branches.

D. Taiwan grass: Fertilize once each quarter, applying 10 kg of urea mixed with compound fertilizer per 667 sq m, with even fertilization and thorough watering, with water penetration depth of more than 5 cm, timely control pests and diseases, timely replant wilted and dead missing parts, with coverage rate above 98%, and prune 1-2 times a month.

(II) Specific annual garden maintenance work schedule:

January: The month with the lowest temperature in the whole year, when open-field trees are in a dormant state.

1. Winter pruning: Fully carry out shaping and pruning work on deciduous trees; prune dead branches, damaged branches, pest- and disease-damaged branches and branches that obstruct overhead lines and buildings on large and small trees.

2. Street tree inspection: Timely inspect the tying and staking of street trees, and immediately correct any loosened ties, wire cutting into bark, loose stakes and similar situations.

3. Pest control: Winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. In the loose soil under trees, dig up and collect the pupae and cocoons of nettle grubs and burn them in a concentrated way. In mid-January, scale insects begin activity, but at this time they move slowly, and we can adopt the method of scraping off the larvae on the trunks. Controlling pests in winter often achieves twice the result with half the effort.

4. Green space maintenance: In green spaces, flower beds and other places, pay attention to removing large weeds; lawns should be weeded and edged in time; in green spaces, pay attention to antifreeze watering.

February: The temperature rises somewhat compared with last month, and trees are still in a dormant state.

1. Maintenance is basically the same as in January.

2. Pruning: Continue pruning dead and diseased branches of large and small trees. Before the end of the month, finish pruning all kinds of trees.

3. Pest control: Continue to focus on controlling nettle grubs and scale insects.

March: The temperature continues to rise. After mid-month, trees begin to sprout, and in late month some trees (such as camellia) bloom.

1. Tree planting: Spring is a favorable time for planting trees. After the soil thaws, immediately seize the opportunity to plant trees. Before planting large and small trees, do planning and design well, dig (hoe) tree pits in advance, and ensure digging, transporting, planting and watering are done promptly. When planting shrubs, also ensure digging, transporting and planting are done promptly, and water fully to increase the seedling survival rate.

2. Spring irrigation: Because spring is dry and windy with high evaporation, to prevent spring drought, water green spaces and other areas in time.

3. Fertilization: After the soil thaws, apply base fertilizer to plants and irrigate. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

4. Pest and disease control: This month is a critical time for pest and disease control. Some seedlings show sooty mold, and the boxwood leaf roller also appears (use spraying with pesticides such as fenitrothion for control). For nettle grub control, the method of digging pupae can continue to be used.

April: The temperature continues to rise, and trees all sprout and bloom or unfold leaves and begin to enter a period of vigorous growth.

1. Continue planting trees: In early April, seize the time to plant trees that sprout late, timely pull out and replant shrubs that died in winter (azalea, Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, etc.), and water newly planted trees fully.

2. Irrigation: Continue timely watering of maintained green spaces.

3. Fertilization: For lawns and shrubs, combine with irrigation and apply quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer as topdressing, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.

4. Pruning: Cut off branches that dried up in winter and spring, and prune evergreen hedges.

5. Pest and disease control: (1) After the second molting, scale insects successively move into bark cracks, tree holes, trunk bases, wall corners and other places, secrete white waxy thin cocoons and pupate. They can be swept away with a hard bamboo broom and then buried deeply or soaked in a concentrated way. Or use methods such as spraying pesticides including fenitrothion. (2) Longhorn beetles begin activity; use a grafting knife or self-made steel wire to remove larvae, but make the wounds as small as possible. (3) Control work for other pests and diseases.

6. Maintenance in green spaces: Pay attention to removing weeds and climbing plants in large green spaces. Lawns should also be weeded and edged.

May: The temperature rises sharply, and trees grow rapidly.

1. Watering: During the peak leaf-unfolding period, trees have a very large water demand and should be watered in time.

2. Pruning: Prune spent flowers. Street trees undergo their first bud removal and pruning.

3. Pest and disease control: Continue to focus on catching longhorn beetles. The first generation of nettle grubs hatches, but has not yet reached a harmful level; make corresponding measures according to the actual situation in the maintenance area. Sooty mold caused by scale insects, aphids and others has also entered its peak period (on crape myrtle, Pittosporum tobira, oleander, etc.). In mid- and late May, spray 10?20 times rosin mixture and 50% parathion emulsion at 1500?2000 times solution to control diseases and kill pests. (Other pesticides such as insecticidal antibiotics and Huabao can also be used.)

June: High temperature

1. Watering: Plants have a large water demand and must be watered in time; do not "rely on the sky for food."

2. Fertilization: Combine loosening soil and weeding, fertilization and watering to achieve the best effect.

3. Pruning: Continue bud removal and tiller removal on street trees. Prune hedges, ball-shaped plants and some flowering shrubs. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

4. Drainage work: During heavy rain, pay attention to drainage in low-lying areas.

5. Pest and disease control: In mid- and late June, nettle grubs enter the peak hatching period, and measures should be taken in time. At present, spraying 50% fenitrothion emulsion at 500?800 times solution is basically used. (Or spray compound BT emulsion.) Continue manual catching of longhorn beetles.

6. Do a good job of pre-flood and pre-typhoon inspection of trees, and straighten, reinforce and re-tie loose and leaning trees.

July: The highest temperature, with strong winds and heavy rain after mid-month.

1. Transplanting evergreen trees: During the rainy season, with sufficient moisture, conifers and bamboos can be transplanted, but pay attention to weather changes; once high temperature occurs, water in time.

2. Drainage: After heavy rain, drain water in time.

3. Topdressing: Before rain, apply quick-acting fertilizers such as nitrogen fertilizer dry.

4. Street trees: Carry out typhoon-prevention bud removal and pruning, prune all branches that conflict with power lines, and inspect tree stakes one by one; if looseness or instability is found, immediately straighten and tie tightly. Prepare in advance in terms of labor organization, materials, tools and equipment, and send people to inspect at any time, handling dangers promptly when found.

5. Pest and disease control: Continue to control longhorn beetles and nettle grubs. For longhorn beetle control, inject 50% fenitrothion at 1:50 times solution (or Guoshu Bao, or Yuanke No. 3), then seal the hole, which can also achieve a very good effect. Camphor tree nest borers should be cut off in time, and the nests destroyed to avoid another outbreak.

August: Still the rainy season

1. Drainage: After heavy rain, drain low-lying waterlogged areas in time.

2. Typhoon prevention for street trees: Continue to do a good job of typhoon prevention for street trees.

3. Pruning: In addition to general summer pruning of trees, carry out shaping pruning of hedges.

4. Cultivation and weeding: Weeds also grow vigorously and must be removed in time; fertilization can be combined with weeding.

5. Pest and disease control: Focus on catching longhorn beetles, and pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Aphid damage and camphor tree nest borers should be controlled in time. In humid weather, pay attention to powdery mildew and rot disease, and take measures in time. September: The temperature declines somewhat; do related work well for National Day.

1. Pruning: In preparation for city appearance work, remove buds below the third-level forks of street trees. Shape-prune hedges. Weed in green spaces, edge lawns, timely remove dead trees, and ensure trees have green branches and leaves and green spaces are clean and neat.

2. Fertilization: For some trees with weak growth and insufficiently plump branches, apply some phosphorus and potassium fertilizer as topdressing.

3. Pest and disease control: Shot hole disease (cherry blossom, peach, plum, etc.) is at its peak; use 500% carbendazim 1000 times solution to prevent infection. Longhorn beetles begin to turn to the roots for damage; pay attention to catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also timely control carpenter moths on poplar and willow. Do a good job of controlling other pests and diseases.

4. Before the holiday, do a good job of inspecting all kinds of greening facilities.

October: The temperature drops. In late October, early winter begins, trees begin to shed leaves, and successively enter the dormant period.

1. Prepare well for autumn tree planting. In late month, once cold-tolerant trees shed their leaves, planting can begin.

2. Green space maintenance: Timely remove dead trees and water in time. Weed and edge green spaces and lawns well. Fertilize herbaceous flowers that are growing poorly.

3. Pest and disease control: Continue catching longhorn beetles at the roots. Also pay attention to observing and controlling camphor tree nest borers. November: The soil begins to freeze at night and thaw during the day, entering deep winter.

1. Tree planting: Continue planting cold-tolerant plants, completed before the soil freezes.

2. Soil turning: Turn the soil in green spaces to expose pests preparing to overwinter.

3. Watering: Water dry and compacted soil, completed before freezing.

4. Pest and disease control: Various pests prepare to overwinter in late month, and the control task is relatively light.

December: Low temperature; begin winter maintenance work.

1. Winter pruning: Prune some evergreen trees and shrubs.

2. Eliminate overwintering pests and diseases.

3. Prepare for next year's adjustment work: After deciduous plants shed their leaves, observe the maintenance area and draw the positions to be adjusted.

VII. Green space maintenance quality objectives

1 Greening maintenance technical measures are complete and management is appropriate, achieving no exposed loess.

2 Garden plants

2.1 Growth is normal. Various plants in newly built green spaces reach normal form within three years; if plants or grass are damaged or die due to poor management, the replanted seedlings survive within one year.

2.2 Garden tree crowns are basically complete, with main and side branches evenly distributed, appropriate in number, reasonably pruned, the inner crown not messy, and ventilation and light transmission good. Flowering shrubs bloom in time and normally, and are pruned in time after flowering. Hedge and color-block branches and leaves are normal and neat and uniform. Street trees have no missing plants, and there are no dead trees in green spaces.

2.3 Deciduous trees have normal new shoot growth, and leaf size and color are normal. Under general conditions, yellow leaves, scorched leaves, curled leaves and leaves with insect excreta or insect webs must not exceed 5%, and the preservation rate of normal leaves is above 90%. Coni

Part Three: "Annual Greening Maintenance Plan"

Annual Greening Maintenance Plan

January

1. Carry out winter shaping and pruning of various deciduous trees, cutting off dry branches, overlapping branches, crossing branches, pest- and disease-damaged branches and lower side branches, to ensure tree development tends to be reasonable, improve branch form, and reduce the breeding of pests and diseases.

2. Appropriately thin trees that are too dense, which can reduce pests and diseases and increase growth.

3. Carry out winter plowing and soil turning to improve the soil, and carry out winter fertilization of all trees, groundcover and lawns to ensure the nutrient needs of seedlings and lawns.

4. Winter is a favorable season for eliminating garden pests. In the loose soil under trees, dig up and collect the pupae and cocoons of nettle grubs and burn them in a concentrated way.

5. As appropriate, scarify individual lawn types and prune 1-2 times. February

1. Carry out weeding, pruning and fertilization of lawns.

2. Do a good job of pest and disease control, especially paying attention to powdery mildew on narrow-leaved mahonia and scale insects on coral and Fatsia japonica.

3. Especially strengthen antifreeze and heat-preservation measures for trees, and do a good job of loosening and earthing up soil around tree roots.

4. Apply one topdressing (urea) to cool-season lawns at the end of the month at 10 g/mu.

March

1. To prevent spring drought, water trees in time.

2. Timely roll lawns and remove weeds, and clean up winter grass in tree beds and flower beds.

3. Pest and disease control: Strengthen observation and patrol, and do a good job of prediction, forecasting and control. Especially pay special attention to sooty mold and boxwood leaf roller. In mid-March, crape myrtle scale eggs hatch; from late March, pear rust occurs on Malus species and cold-season lawns; pay attention to prevention reports.

4. For local depressions and low-lying spots in lawns, carry out earthing up and sand covering, and carry out low pruning of winter ryegrass lawns to ensure the germination and growth of the base grass.

April

1. Do a good job of loosening the soil, weeding, and fertilizing before flowering for flowers and trees planted in the ground. In particular, apply light fertilizer to herbaceous perennials and spring-sown herbaceous flowers; for lawns and shrubs, combine irrigation with a topdressing of quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, or carry out foliar spraying as needed.

2. Cut off branches that dried out in winter and spring; pruning of evergreen hedges can begin.

3. Pest and disease control: mainly control aphids, sooty mold, and scale insects. Keep relevant records.

May

1. This month is the peak period for trees to unfurl their leaves, and the water demand is very high, so watering should be done in a timely manner.

2. Prune spring-flowering shrubs such as osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans) and Hall crabapple (Malus halliana), and promptly carry out bud removal on London plane (Platanus), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia), and other trees.

3. Hoe weeds in flower beds and shrub color blocks. At the same time, carry out grass removal work on lawns, and prune lawn grass in a timely manner to control its height.

4. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control.

June

1. Water plants in a timely manner to ensure an adequate water supply for the plants.

2. Loosen the soil and hoe weeds in tree beds and color-block shrubs, and carry out grass removal work on lawns.

3. Lawns should be pruned in a timely manner, and their growth height should be controlled, paying attention to controlling the occurrence of large-scale pests and diseases. Apply a compound fertilizer once to lawns that are growing poorly or are short of fertilizer, so that they can safely pass the summer.

4. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control.

July

1. In high-temperature weather, especially ensure that watering work for plants is carried out.

2. Carry out soil loosening and weeding work on flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job of grass removal on ground cover. This month the weather is hot, with high temperatures and relatively high humidity; weeds grow quickly, so seize the opportunity to carry out hoeing and grass removal work to prevent grass from becoming overgrown, and continue intertillage weeding and loosening the soil.

3. Earnestly do a good job of typhoon and flood prevention work; reinforce and secure trees in the garden to prevent lodging; promptly clear and drain low-lying or severely waterlogged areas.

4. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control.

August

1. Carry out summer pruning of evergreen trees, and carry out shaping pruning of hedges.

2. Lawn weeds grow vigorously, so weed and prune in a timely manner, control lawn height, and combine weeding with fertilization. Timely supplementary fertilization and topdressing are needed, mainly with P and K fertilizers, together with N fertilizer; for small seedlings, shrubs, and herbaceous flowers, apply light fertilizer frequently, and at the same time pay attention to mastering the fertilization period and climate.

3. In high-temperature weather, be sure to ensure daily watering and drought-relief work, and it must not be chosen between 10 and 15 o'clock, so as to avoid burning the seedlings. (Including: tree bed maintenance, weed control, soil loosening, etc.)

4. Continue to do a good job of typhoon and flood prevention work, further reinforce and secure large trees in residential areas to prevent lodging; and promptly clear drainage ditches in low-lying and easily waterlogged places to prevent water from accumulating for too long.

5. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control.

September

1. Carry out shaping pruning of hedges. Weed in green areas and promptly clear dead trees, so that trees have green branches and leaves and the green areas are clean and tidy.

2. Thin out trees that are growing too densely, and at the same time carry out bud removal work.

3. Lawns should be pruned, edged, and cleared of weeds in a timely manner, and attention should be paid to pest and disease control work.

4. Carry out weeding work on flower beds and color-block shrubs, and at the same time do a good job of grass removal on ground cover, and collect flower seeds.

5. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting, reporting, and control.

October

1. Prune spherical shrubs to ensure a beautiful appearance, neatness, and distinct layers. Prune the tree form of evergreen trees so that their growth and development tend toward reasonableness and their tree posture and appearance are improved.

2. Strengthen management of newly planted herbaceous flowers, promptly fill in bare gaps and water, and fertilize those growing poorly.

3. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting and reporting, actively control, and keep relevant records. November

1. Carry out thinning and pruning of evergreen trees and evergreen shrubs, mainly for ventilation and light transmission, to reduce pests and diseases and enhance growth vigor.

2. Do a good job of grass removal and edging in flower beds, color-block shrubs, and green areas, promptly pull out weeds, and promptly replant bare gaps. Adjust trees in the local layout as appropriate, and some evergreen trees and a few deciduous tree species can be transplanted. Also begin cold protection and warmth work; for trees with

poor cold resistance, wrap them with straw and earth up the soil.

3. Strengthen maintenance and management of newly planted plants, pay attention to timely watering, and prune appropriately. Lawn should be scarified and aerated as appropriate, and at the same time pruned 2-3 times.

4. Carry out fertilization work in late this month, and combine with applying additional organic fertilizer to carry out soil turning work in green areas.

5. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting and reporting, actively control, and keep relevant records. December

1. Do a good job of grass removal and edging in color-block shrubs and green areas, and promptly pull out weeds.

2. Carry out thinning and pruning of evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs, mainly to remove residual stumps and dead branches, in order to make the trees grow better in the second year (flowering shrubs that have already formed flower buds must not be pruned), and at the same time pay attention to clearing insect cocoons on tree trunks and branches.

3. Wrap sago palm (Cycas), date palm (Phoenix), and other southern plants with straw rope to ensure they safely overwinter.

4. Pest and disease control: do a good job of forecasting and reporting, actively control, and keep relevant records.

Section Four: "Latest Commonly Used Southern Landscape Plants"

Commonly Used Garden Plants in Southern Landscapes

Evergreen trees:

Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), slash pine (Pinus elliottii), Chinese fir (Cunninghamia lanceolata), Caribbean pine (Pinus caribaea), Chinese weeping cypress (Cupressus funebris), mahogany (Swietenia mahagoni), large-leaf mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla), false sterculia (Sterculia lanceolata), Chinese saraca (Saraca dives), sugar apple (Annona squamosa), longan (Dimocarpus longan), human-face fruit (Dracontomelon duperreanum), firepower magnolia (Michelia macclurei), golden shower tree (Cassia fistula), Chinese arborvitae (Platycladus orientalis), Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), dragon juniper (Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca'), Fujian cypress (Fokienia hodginsii), Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica), Japanese podocarpus (Podocarpus nagi), long-leaf podocarpus (Podocarpus fleuryi), white michelia (Michelia alba), southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), houpo magnolia (Magnolia officinalis), burmann cinnamon (Cinnamomum burmannii), camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora), cassia bark tree (Cinnamomum cassia), bitter catalpa (Manglietia aromatica), Hainan ormosia (Ormosia pinnata), Taiwan acacia (Acacia confusa), Siamese senna (Senna siamea), red camel's foot (Bauhinia blakeana), camel's foot (Bauhinia purpurea), Hong Kong orchid tree (Bauhinia variegata), almond (Prunus dulcis), mango (Mangifera indica), padauk (Pterocarpus indicus), water banyan (Syzygium nervosum), water stone banyan (Elaeocarpus hainanensis), avocado (Persea americana), devil tree (Alstonia scholaris), false betel nut (Archontophoenix alexandrae), Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), fishtail palm (Caryota ochlandra), queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), rose apple (Syzygium jambos), Hainan rose apple (Syzygium hainanense), sapodilla (Manilkara zapota), lemon-scented gum (Eucalyptus citriodora), river red gum (Eucalyptus camaldulensis), large-leaf eucalyptus (Eucalyptus grandis), blue gum (Eucalyptus globulus), paperbark tree (Melaleuca leucadendra), butterfly fruit (Cleidiocarpon cavaleriei), Chinese torreya (Torreya grandis), plum yew (Cephalotaxus fortunei), Indian rubber fig (Ficus elastica), banyan (Ficus altissima), small-leaf banyan (Ficus microcarpa), large-fruited fig (Ficus auriculata), weeping fig (Ficus benjamina), yellow banyan (Ficus virens), sacred fig (Ficus religiosa), horsetail tree (Casuarina equisetifolia), jackfruit (Artocarpus heterophyllus), camphor-leaf maple (Acer cinnamomifolium), bitter oak (Castanopsis sclerophylla), blue Japanese oak (Cyclobalanopsis glauca), candlenut (Aleurites moluccanus), silver birch (Grevillea robusta), pointed-leaf elaeocarpus (Elaeocarpus apiculatus), large-leaf elaeocarpus (Elaeocarpus sylvestris), yellow hibiscus (Hibiscus tiliaceus), iron wintergreen (Ilex rotunda), glossy privet (Ligustrum lucidum), osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), albizia (Albizia falcataria), royal palm (Roystonea regia), fish-tail palm (Caryota urens), Mexican fan palm (Washingtonia robusta), sugar palm (Arenga pinnata), long-leaf date palm (Phoenix loureiroi), autumn maple (Bischofia javanica), red sandalwood (Pterocarpus santalinus), large-flowered dillenia (Dillenia indica), jackfruit (Artocarpus heterophyllus), yellow cassia (Senna surattensis), tree jackfruit (Artocarpus heterophyllus), large-leaf privet (Ligustrum lucidum), Lechang michelia (Michelia chapensis), schefflera (Schefflera octophylla), false umbrella tree (Heteropanax fragrans)

Deciduous trees:

small-leaf terminalia (Terminalia mantaly), Chinese swamp cypress (Glyptostrobus pensilis), water alder (Alnus nepalensis), Chinese tallow (Triadica sebifera), Japanese raisin tree (Hovenia dulcis), sand pear (Pyrus pyrifolia), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), entire-leaf goldenrain tree (Koelreuteria bipinnata), frangipani (Plumeria rubra), bald cypress (Taxodium distichum), pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), Chinese tulip tree (Liriodendron chinense), white magnolia (Magnolia denudata), Chinese parasol tree (Firmiana simplex), sawtooth oak (Quercus acutissima), cork oak (Quercus variabilis), Chinese hackberry (Celtis sinensis), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), white oak (Quercus fabri), happy tree (Camptotheca acuminata), large-flowered crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia speciosa), beautiful silk floss tree (Ceiba speciosa), flame tree (Delonix regia), yellow poinciana (Peltophorum pterocarpum), jacaranda (Jacaranda mimosifolia), yellow cassia (Senna surattensis), chinaberry (Melia azedarach), Chinese mahogany (Toona sinensis), coral tree (Erythrina variegata), cockspur coral tree (Erythrina crista-galli), chestnut (Castanea mollissima), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), sweet acacia (Acacia farnesiana), Japanese aralia (Kalopanax septemlobus), sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), weeping willow (Salix babylonica), Yulan magnolia (Magnolia soulangeana), purple-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera), ornamental peach (Prunus persica), plum (Prunus mume), papaya (Carica papaya), India

rosewood (Pterocarpus santalinus), red-leaf plum (Prunus cerasifera)

Evergreen shrubs:

sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Chinese plum yew (Cephalotaxus sinensis), orchid tree (Aglaia odorata), large-leaf boxwood (Euonymus japonicus), dense-flowered oleaster (Elaeagnus pungens), camellia sasanqua (Camellia sasanqua), South China coral tree (Viburnum odoratissimum), gold-dusted aucuba (Aucuba japonica), St. John's wort (Hypericum monogynum), three-medicine betel nut (Areca triandra), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), Qiong palm (Chuniophoenix hainanensis), four-season orchid tree (Aglaia odorata), soft-branch allamanda (Allamanda cathartica), small-leaf justicia (Justicia gendarussa), red bottlebrush (Callistemon rigidus), Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), crown of thorns (Euphorbia milii), poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima), Yunnan jasmine (Jasminum mesnyi), aucuba (Aucuba chinensis), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), foreign azalea (Rhododendron hybridum), shiny-leaf cordyline (Cordyline fruticosa), croton (Codiaeum variegatum), red mulberry (Acalypha wilkesiana), golden-edge mulberry (Acalypha wilkesiana 'Marginata'), golden-leaf fig (Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves'), smooth senna (Senna tora), red-stem rhododendron (Rhododendron ovatum), ardisia (Ardisia japonica), orange jasmine (Murraya paniculata), red-backed excoecaria (Excoecaria cochinchinensis), eagle-claw flower (Artabotrys hexapetalus), camellia (Camellia japonica), oil tea (Camellia oleifera), large-leaf tea (Camellia sinensis), oleander (Nerium oleander), yellow oleander (Thevetia peruviana), small-flowered allamanda (Allamanda cathartica), June snow (Serissa japonica), banana shrub (Michelia figo), pittosporum (Pittosporum tobira), mahonia (Mahonia fortunei), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), Japanese fatsia (Fatsia japonica), night-blooming magnolia (Magnolia coco), Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), lantern flower (Hibiscus schizopetalus), azalea (Rhododendron simsii), Spanish dagger (Yucca gloriosa), yucca (Yucca smalliana), South China boxwood (Buxus harlandii), axle palm (Licuala fordiana), soft-leaf date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), short-spike fishtail palm (Caryota mitis), dwarf palm (Rhapis humilis), bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa),

golden banyan (Ficus microcarpa 'Golden Leaves'), fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata), willow-leaf fig (Ficus salicifolia), golden-vein justicia (Sanchezia nobilis), schefflera (Schefflera octophylla), mosaic duranta (Duranta erecta 'Variegata'), golden duranta (Duranta erecta 'Golden Leaves'), justicia (Justicia gendarussa), golden-leaf privet (Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum'), giant taro (Alocasia macrorrhizos), bird's nest fern (Asplenium nidus), monstera (Monstera deliciosa), aspidistra (Aspidistra elatior), snake plant (Sansevieria trifasciata), thick-leaf rhaphiolepis (Rhaphiolepis indica), variegated hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 'Variegata'), purple brocade (Euphorbia cotinifolia), small-leaf boxwood (Buxus sinica), African jasmine (Fagraea ceilancia), yesterday-today-and-tomorrow (Brunfelsia pauciflora), false jasmine (Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans'), crinum lily (Crinum asiaticum), spider lily (Hymenocallis littoralis), beautyberry (Callicarpa nudiflora), Chinese fringeflower (Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum), large-flowered datura (Datura suaveolens), white mussaenda (Mussaenda frondosa), red mussaenda (Mussaenda erythrophylla), hairy azalea (Rhododendron pulchrum), Western azalea (Rhododendron hybridum), double-pod senna (Senna bicapsularis), hardy tecoma (Tecomaria capensis), rose myrtle (Rhodomyrtus tomentosa), Chinese ixora (Ixora chinensis), Yunnan jasmine (Jasminum mesnyi), jasmine (Jasminum sambac), fiddle-leaf coral (Jatropha pandurifolia), blue snowflake (Plumbago auriculata), blue star flower (Oxypetalum coeruleum), butterfly (Bauhinia), heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica), pepper tree (Zanthoxylum beecheyanum), red-backed excoecaria (Excoecaria cochinchinensis),

Deciduous shrubs:

cotton rose (Hibiscus mutabilis), needle-leaf spiraea (Spiraea thunbergii), diamond-leaf spiraea (Spiraea vanhouttei), modern rose (Rosa hybrida), glossy abelia (Abelia chinensis), pomegranate (Punica granatum), beautyberry (Callicarpa japonica), purple magnolia (Magnolia liliiflora), bush clover (Lespedeza bicolor), Amur honeysuckle (Lonicera maackii), Chinese snowball (Viburnum macrocephalum), rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), redbud (Cercis chinensis), dwarf flowering cherry (Prunus japonica), bridal wreath spiraea (Spiraea prunifolia), pearl flower (Spiraea thunbergii), butterfly tree (Bauhinia), elderberry (Sambucus), fig (Ficus carica), Sichuan pepper (Zanthoxylum bungeanum), trifoliate orange (Poncirus trifoliata), butterfly bush (Buddleja lindleyana), small wax (Ligustrum sinense)

Vines:

monstera (Monstera deliciosa), bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis), chicken-blood vine (Millettia reticulata), firecracker vine (Pyrostegia venusta), rangoon creeper (Combretum indicum), three-leaf akebia (Akebia trifoliata), honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica), climbing euonymus (Euonymus fortunei), climbing fig (Ficus pumila), kiwi (Actinidia chinensis), creeping euonymus (Euonymus fortunei), Hong Kong raphidophora (Rhaphidophora hongkongensis), sparrow flower (Mucuna birdwoodiana), wax flower (Hoya carnosa), epipremnum (Epipremnum pinnatum), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides), Chinese ivy (Hedera nepalensis), English ivy (Hedera helix), southern schisandra (Schisandra sphenanthera), Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), Chinese trumpet creeper (Campsis grandiflora), passionflower (Passiflora caerulea), large-flowered crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia speciosa), evergreen mucuna (Mucuna sempervirens), large-flowered thunbergia (Thunbergia grandiflora)

eagle-claw flower (Artabotrys hexapetalus), large-flowered thunbergia (Thunbergia grandiflora), rangoon creeper (Combretum indicum), coral vine (Antigonon leptopus), Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata), firecracker vine (Pyrostegia venusta), white-flowered mucuna (Mucuna sempervirens), beautiful clerodendrum (Clerodendrum speciosum), wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), climbing fig (Ficus pumila), cypress vine (Ipomoea quamoclit), morning glory (Ipomoea nil), maple-leaf morning glory (Ipomoea cairica), snake vine (Strophanthus), jasmine (Jasminum officinale), large-flowered dutchman's pipe (Aristolochia gigantea), garlic vine (Mansoa alliacea), wood rose (Merremia tuberosa), lilac vine (Clytostoma callistegioides), passionflower (Passiflora caerulea)

Bamboo:

green-skin bamboo (Bambusa textilis), powder-stem bamboo (Bambusa chungii), moso bamboo (Phyllostachys edulis), fernleaf bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), white bamboo (Phyllostachys glauca), golden-stripe jade bamboo (Bambusa vulgaris 'Vittata'), sinocalamus (Bambusa emeiensis), hedge bamboo (Bambusa multiplex), bitter bamboo (Pleioblastus amarus), broad-leaf bamboo (Indocalamus tessellatus), buddha belly bamboo (Bambusa ventricosa), ma bamboo (Dendrocalamus latiflorus), green-skin bamboo (Bambusa textilis), Thai bamboo (Bambusa), punt pole bamboo (Bambusa pervariabilis), square bamboo (Chimonobambusa quadrangularis), green bamboo (Bambusa oldhamii), Guanyin bamboo (Bambusa multiplex 'Amarus'), small fernleaf bamboo (Bambusa multiplex 'Alphonse Karr'), red bamboo (Phyllostachys rubromarginata)

Lawn and ground cover plants:

Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon), Chinese lawngrass (Zoysia sinica), fine-leaf lawngrass (Zoysia tenuifolia), carpet grass (Axonopus compressus), centipede grass (Eremochloa ophiuroides), knotgrass (Paspalum distichum), Manila grass (Zoysia matrella), lawngrass (Zoysia japonica), Guangdong evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), purple spiderwort (Tradescantia pallida), oyster plant (Rhoeo spathacea), lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus), large-leaf curculigo (Curculigo capitulata), dwarf lilyturf (Liriope spicata), lucky grass (Reineckea carnea), aspidistra (Aspidistra elatior), black-eyed Susan vine (Thunbergia alata), Acorus gramineus, autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), pink zephyr lily (Zephyranthes rosea), golden spider lily (Lycoris aurea), white butterfly (Pentas lanceolata), iris (Iris tectorum), red-flowered oxalis (Oxalis corymbosa), inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina),

purple-backed prayer plant (Maranta bicolor), arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum), white-butterfly arrowhead vine (Syngonium podophyllum 'Albolineatum'), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), inch plant (Tradescantia zebrina), sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), clearweed (Pilea cadierei), small oyster plant (Rhoeo spathacea 'Compacta'), peace lily (Spathiphyllum kochii), silver-edge lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus 'Argenteovittatus'), red-flowered lantana (Lantana camara 'Red'), yellow-flowered lantana (Lantana camara 'Yellow'), purple-flowered lantana

(Lantana camara 'Purple'), dusty miller (Senecio cineraria), bleeding heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae), shrimp plant (Justicia brandegeeana), red firecracker (Russelia equisetiformis), asparagus fern (Asparagus densiflorus), beach evening primrose (Oenothera drummondii), beach morning glory (Ipomoea imperati), ivy (Hedera helix), star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides), ginger lily (Hedychium coronarium), umbrella plant (Cyperus alternifolius), papyrus (Cyperus papyrus), iris (Iris), loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria), narcissus (Narcissus tazetta), lotus (Nelumbo nucifera), water lily (Nymphaea tetragona), three-lobed wedelia (Sphagneticola trilobata), red-flowered oxalis (Oxalis corymbosa), Brazilian peanut vine (Arachis pintoi), dichondra (Dichondra repens), purple amaranth (Amaranthus tricolor), round-leaf amaranth (Alternanthera), coleus (Coleus scutellarioides), fine-leaf verbena (Verbena tenuisecta), red-green grass (Alternanthera), autumn zephyr lily (Zephyranthes candida), pink zephyr lily (Zephyranthes rosea), amaryllis (Hippeastrum rutilum), lily (Lilium), calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus), centipede grass (Eremochloa ophiuroides), Manila grass (Zoysia matrella), Korean lawngrass (Zoysia tenuifolia), Bermuda grass (Cynodon dactylon), large-leaf carpet grass (Axonopus affinis), variegated blunt grass (Paspalum notatum 'Variegatum'), bahia grass (Paspalum notatum), short-leaf lilyturf (Ophiopogon japonicus)

Palms:

royal palm (Roystonea regia), Washington palm (Washingtonia), triangle palm (Dypsis decaryi), king palm (Archontophoenix cunninghamiana), foxtail palm (Wodyetia bifurcata), Butia palm (Butia capitata), bottle palm (Hyophorbe lagenicaulis), club palm (Hyophorbe verschaffeltii), Middle Eastern date palm (Phoenix dactylifera), Canary Island date palm (Phoenix canariensis), Bismarck palm (Bismarckia nobilis), oil palm (Elaeis guineensis), fish-tail palm (Caryota urens), windmill palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), dragon-scale palm (Sabal), Chinese fan palm (Livistona chinensis), queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), fishtail palm (Caryota ochlandra), queen palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), Mexican fan palm (Washingtonia robusta), beautiful date palm (Phoenix roebelenii), short-spike fishtail palm (Caryota mitis), long-spike fishtail palm (Caryota urens), areca palm (Dypsis lutescens), three-medicine betel nut (Areca triandra), traveler's palm (Ravenala madagascariensis), bamboo palm (Rhapis excelsa),

Seasonal flowers

star flower (Pentas lanceolata), African impatiens (Impatiens walleriana), four-season begonia (Begonia cucullata), scarlet sage (Salvia splendens), petunia (Petunia hybrida), hybrid dianthus (Dianthus chinensis), ornamental kale (Brassica oleracea), French marigold (Tagetes patula), marigold (Tagetes erecta), nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), pansy (Viola tricolor), wishbone flower (Torenia fournieri), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), pot marigold (Calendula officinalis), globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa), zinnia (Zinnia elegans), moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora), rose moss (Portulaca pilosa), cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), cineraria (Pericallis hybrida), spider flower (Cleome hassleriana), daylily (Hemerocallis), lavender (Lavandula), loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria)

Section Five: "Examples of Southern Plant Configuration"

Southern Plant Configuration

Monstera + umbrella plant + variegated galangal

Large horsetail tree + seven-color horsetail tree + heavenly bamboo + sword fern + placed stone

Royal palm + fish-tail palm + beautiful date palm + canna + coleus + croton

Royal palm + Canary Island date palm head + red cordyline + red mulberry + Chinese ixora

Royal palm + false betel nut + areca palm + large-leaf bamboo palm + golden leaf

Section Six: "Commonly Used Garden Plants in the South"

Commonly Used Plants in Southern Courtyards

I. Palms:

1. Royal palm 2. False betel nut 3. Washington palm 4. Silver date palm 5. Canary Island date palm 6. Three-medicine betel nut

7. Chinese fan palm 8. Mexican fan palm 9. Areca palm 10. Bamboo palm (fine-leaf bamboo palm) 11. Golden mountain palm 12. Soft-leaf date palm

II. Trees (street trees, shade trees):

1. Flame tree 2. Kapok 3. Beautiful silk floss tree 4. Coral tree 5. Pointed-leaf elaeocarpus 6. Devil tree

7. Fine-leaf banyan 8. Water stone banyan 9. Mango 10. Chinese mahogany 11. Burmann cinnamon 12. Large-flowered crape myrtle

13. Red sandalwood 14. Frangipani 15. Terminalia 16. Traveler's palm 17. Red screw pine 18. Autumn maple

19. Star fruit 20. Pointed-leaf olive 21. Golden shower tree 22. Albizia 23. Paperbark tree

24. Eucalyptus 25. Hainan rose apple 26. Large-leaf aphanamixis 27. Camel's foot 28. Mahogany

29. Banyan 30. Flame tree 31. Yellow-flowered trumpet tree 32. Double-feather goldenrain tree

III. Flowering shrubs:

1. Four-season osmanthus 2. Fine-leaf bamboo 3. Tree fern 4. Yellow banyan 5. Bougainvillea

6. Yellow cassia 7. Red bottlebrush 8. Golden-edge sisal 9. Chinese hibiscus 10. Fagraea 11. Variegated banyan

12. Chinese hibiscus 13. Banana shrub 14. Crape myrtle 15. Beautyberry 16. Tabernaemontana 17. Dragon orchid

18. Century plant 19. Yucca 20. Firecracker vine 21. Yellow oleander 22. Polyscias

IV. Ground cover or color blocks:

1. Pittosporum 2. Monstera 3. Pothos 4. Bird's nest fern 5. Red gem 6. Large-leaf red grass 7. Schefflera

8. Little angel 9. Golden leaf 10. Cigar flower 11. Fine-leaf frog orchid 12. Three-star prayer plant 13. Hairy azalea

14. Dwarf Chinese fan palm 15. Bird's nest fern 16. Mosaic duranta 17. Spider lily 18. Inch plant 19. Soft-branch allamanda

20. Variegated galangal 21. Asparagus fern 22. Golden peanut 23. Fine-leaf ixora 24. Sword fern 25. Yellow shrimp flower

26. White butterfly 27. Clearweed 28. Variegated dieffenbachia 29. Rainbow cordyline 30. Croton 31. Lilyturf

32. Silver-edge grass 33. Jasmine 34. Velvet prayer plant 35. Taiwan grass 36. Large-leaf carpet grass

37. Manila grass 38. Bermuda grass 39. Ryegrass 40. Tall fescue

There are also some commonly used plants:

1. Sacred fig 2. Banyan 3. Water stone banyan 4. Bell flower 5. National Day flower 6. Golden shower tree

7. Siamese senna 8. Sausage tree 9. Thai yellow large yellow flower ball 10. Golden fragrant willow

11. Winged-pod senna 12. Double-pod sophora 13. Daily cherry 14. Water banyan 15. Gray manglietia

16. Hainan sajin 17. Variegated money tree 18. Hainan ormosia 19. Mahogany

20. Albizia 21. Sandalwood osmanthus 22. Autumn osmanthus 23. Laurel 24. Mexican fan palm 25. Fine-leaf bamboo

26. Indian yellow (purple) sandalwood 27. Red sandalwood 28. Dianella 29. Leizhou banyan 30. Cat-tail tree

Commonly Used Garden Plants in the South

1. Evergreen trees

Norfolk Island pine, Cunningham's araucaria, oil fir, large-leaf araucaria, kauri, masson pine, slash pine, camphor tree, Japanese cinnamon, giant eucalyptus, paperbark tree, rose apple, Hainan rose apple, autumn maple, Taiwan acacia, smaller-leaved acacia, ear-pod acacia, red sandalwood, small-leaf banyan, large-leaf banyan, banyan, bird banyan, Indian rubber fig, variegated Indian rubber fig, sacred fig, candlenut, mahogany, dillenia, devil tree, terminalia, small-leaf terminalia, jackfruit, wax apple, human-face fruit, sapodilla, Chinese mahogany, horsetail tree, white michelia, night-blooming magnolia, firepower magnolia, small-leaf elaeocarpus, southern magnolia, yellow hibiscus, mango, longan, lychee, olive, loquat, bayberry, pomelo, water stone banyan, Buddhist pine, dragon juniper, Japanese podocarpus, osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, banana shrub, orchid tree, camellia, weeping fig, butterfly fruit, oblique-leaf fig

2. Deciduous trees

Dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, Chinese swamp cypress, Chinese tulip tree, Chinese parasol tree, double-9 tree, albizia, large-leaf albizia, silver albizia, sweetgum, weeping willow, sausage tree, anthocephalus, silver birch, Chinese hackberry, soapberry, Chinese pistache, chinaberry, Chinese tallow, wood oil tree, ginkgo, sterculia, persimmon, fig, mulberry, papaya, guava, red maple, sweet acacia

3. Palms

False betel nut, royal palm, king palm, bottle palm, club palm, triangle palm, foxtail palm, queen palm, oil palm, sugar palm, large silk palm, Washington palm, Canary Island date palm, Middle Eastern date palm, Iranian honey date, Chinese fan palm, fish-tail palm, sugar palm, scale date palm, soft-leaf date palm, three-medicine betel nut, green palm, fragrant palm, long-spike fishtail palm, short-spike fishtail palm, areca palm, windmill palm, banana, traveler's palm, cordyline, bamboo palm, fine-leaf bamboo palm, Nikolai bird of paradise, red-stem philodendron, false taro

4. Foliage shrubs

Golden-leaf weeping fig, golden banyan, fiddle-leaf fig, willow-leaf fig, fukugi (Garcinia subelliptica), variegated reed bamboo, weeping green false polyalthia, red screw pine, pittosporum, variegated hibiscus, sago palm, red bottlebrush, woody night jasmine, pretty smoke tree, golden-vein justicia, Japanese fatsia, creeping juniper, variegated cassava, heavenly bamboo, schefflera, variegated schefflera, pepper tree, red-backed excoecaria, red mulberry, Japanese lilac, duranta, mosaic duranta, golden duranta, orange jasmine, croton, hastate-leaf croton (Codiaeum variegatum 'Hastatum'), Hainan croton, gold-dusted croton, justicia, Fujian tea, small-leaf boxwood, golden-leaf privet, crown of thorns, yellow-stripe century plant, agave, silver-edge agave, yucca, bottle palm, aspidistra, snake plant, cactus, giant taro, bird's nest fern, monstera, variegated shell ginger, beach naupaka, thick-leaf rhaphiolepis, variegated breynia, Ceylon phyllanthus, modern rose

5. Flowering shrubs

African jasmine, yesterday-today-and-tomorrow, false jasmine, rose of Sharon, Chinese hibiscus, lantern flower, sleeping hibiscus, poinsettia, beautyberry, bougainvillea, large-flowered gardenia, hydrangea, red bract flower, wild peony, Chinese fringeflower, large-flowered datura, white mussaenda, red mussaenda, yellow allamanda, Western azalea, double-pod senna, hardy tecoma, rose myrtle, Chinese ixora, phoenix pearl, Yunnan jasmine, jasmine, crinum lily,

spider lily, crab-claw flower, dwarf canna, stone sea pepper, fiddle-leaf coral, blue snowflake, blue star flower, butterfly flower

6. Ground cover

Calathea roseopicta, Syngonium podophyllum, Syngonium podophyllum 'Albo-lineatum', Epipremnum aureum, Tradescantia zebrina, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Pilea cadierei, Rhoeo spathacea, Spathiphyllum kochii, Ophiopogon japonicus, Ophiopogon japonicus 'Argenteomarginatus', Lantana camara (red-flowered), Lantana camara (yellow-flowered), Lantana camara (purple-flowered), Senecio cineraria, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, Russelia equisetiformis, Asparagus cochinchinensis, Oenothera drummondii, Ipomoea pes-caprae, Hedera helix, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Hedychium coronarium, Cyperus alternifolius, Cyperus papyrus, Iris tectorum, Lythrum salicaria, Narcissus tazetta, Nelumbo nucifera, Nymphaea tetragona, Wedelia trilobata, Oxalis corymbosa, Arachis pintoi, Dichondra repens, Alternanthera dentata, Alternanthera philoxeroides, Coleus scutellarioides, Verbena tenuisecta, Alternanthera bettzickiana, Zephyranthes candida, Zephyranthes carinata, Hippeastrum rutilum, Lilium brownii, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Catharanthus roseus, Eremochloa ophiuroides, Zoysia matrella, Zoysia tenuifolia, Cynodon dactylon, Axonopus compressus, Stenotaphrum secundatum, Paspalum notatum, Ophiopogon japonicus 'Nanus'

7. Vines

Thunbergia grandiflora, Combretum indicum, Antigonon leptopus, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Pyrostegia venusta, Mucuna birdwoodiana, Clerodendrum speciosissimum, Wisteria sinensis, Ficus pumila, Ipomoea quamoclit, Ipomoea nil, Ipomoea batatas, Celastrus orbiculatus, Jasminum officinale, Aristolochia gigantea, Pseudocalymma alliaceum, Merremia tuberosa, Clytostoma callistegioides, Passiflora caerulea

Chapter 7: "Document on Commonly Used Plant Combinations in the South"

Practical Plant Combination Table — A Concise Table of Commonly Used Plant Combinations

Aquatic plants:

Wetland plants: Salix matsudana, Salix babylonica, Salix integra, Salix psammophila, Salix viminalis, Salix wallichiana, Populus simonii, Populus maximowiczii, Sabina vulgaris, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Melia azedarach, Pterocarya stenoptera, Fraxinus chinensis, Forsythia suspensa, Ulmus pumila, Ulmus laciniata, Ulmus parvifolia, Sapium sebiferum, Prunus serrulata, Eucommia ulmoides, Koelreuteria paniculata, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hibiscus syriacus, Nerium oleander, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Vitis vinifera, Wisteria sinensis, Amorpha fruticosa, Tamarix chinensis, Ranunculus japonicus, Halerpestes salsuginosa, Halerpestes ruthenica, Lysimachia pentapetala, Lysimachia nummularia, Stachys baicalensis, Stachys chinensis, Mentha haplocalyx, Lindernia procumbens, Veronica polita, Nasturtium officinale, Scirpus triqueter, Scirpus mucronatus, Scirpus planiculmis, Cyperus glomeratus, Cyperus glomeratus var., Cyperus sanguinolentus, Juncus prismatocarpus, Juncus effusus var. decipiens, Juncus bufonius, Juncus gracillimus, Polygonum aviculare, Polygonum plebeium, Polygonum orientale, Polygonum caespitosum, Polygonum lapathifolium, Polygonum senticosum, Polygonum sieboldii, Polygonum perfoliatum, Polygonum senticosum, Polygonum thunbergii, Polygonum thunbergii var., Polygonum cuspidatum, Imperata cylindrica, Calamagrostis epigejos, Calamagrostis langsdorffii, Beckmannia syzigachne, Polypogon monspeliensis, Arundinella anomala, Miscanthus sacchariflorus, Coix lacryma-jobi, Hemarthria altissima, Hygrophila salicifolia

Emergent plants: Scirpus validus, Phragmites australis, Nelumbo nucifera (rhizome), Sagittaria sagittifolia, Caldesia reniformis, Alisma plantago-aquatica, Nelumbo nucifera, Lythrum salicaria, Typha orientalis, Monochoria vaginalis, Monochoria korsakowii, Acorus calamus, Pontederia cordata, Oryza sativa, Kandelia candel, Narcissus tazetta, Oenanthe javanica, Zizania latifolia, Colocasia esculenta, Marsilea quadrifolia, Phragmites australis, Eleocharis dulcis, Scirpus yagara, Eleocharis valleculosa, Typha angustifolia, Cyperus alternifolius, Typha latifolia

Floating-leaved plants: Lemna minor, Eichhornia crassipes, Nymphaea tetragona, Euryale ferox, Victoria amazonica, Nuphar pumilum, Eichhornia crassipes, Nymphoides peltata, Brasenia schreberi, Utricularia aurea, Ceratopteris thalictroides, Nymphoides hydrophylla

Submerged plants: Ceratophyllum demersum, Ottelia alismoides

Colorful-leaf plants:

Red or purple: Liquidambar formosana, Toxicodendron vernicifluum, Acer palmatum, Acer ginnala, Celastrus orbiculatus, Quercus rubra, Acer ginnala (Tang maple), Sapium sebiferum, Rhus typhina, Rhus chinensis, Sorbus pohuashanensis, Nandina domestica, Euonymus alatus, Crataegus pinnatifida, Pistacia chinensis, Pterocarya stenoptera, Berberis thunbergii, Carpinus hupeana, Parthenocissus tricuspidata

Golden yellow or yellow-brown: Ginkgo biloba, Diospyros kaki, Koelreuteria paniculata, Liriodendron chinense, Firmiana simplex, Ulmus pumila, Juglans regia, Catalpa bungei, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Lagerstroemia indica, Ulmus parvifolia, Phoebe zhennan, Ziziphus jujuba var. spinosa, Actinidia chinensis, Aesculus chinensis, Sorbus alnifolia, Chimonanthus praecox, Punica granatum, Cassia surattensis, Hamamelis mollis, Sapindus mukorossi, Acacia farnesiana

Aromatic plants:

Aromatic plants that can be planted in residential areas include: herbs such as Mentha haplocalyx, Ocimum basilicum, Melissa officinalis, Matricaria chamomilla, Cymbopogon citratus, Salvia japonica, Taraxacum mongolicum, Calendula officinalis, Thymus vulgaris, Borago officinalis, Pelargonium graveolens, and Malva sylvestris; shrubs such as Lavandula angustifolia, Rosmarinus officinalis, Gardenia jasminoides, Rosa rugosa, and Aloysia citrodora.

Woody plants arranged to release fragrance in turn through the four seasons, for example: plum blossom and orange blossom in spring; gardenia and Michelia alba in summer; sweet osmanthus in autumn and wintersweet in winter.

Pollution-resistant and exhaust-gas-resistant plants: Robinia pseudoacacia, Paulownia fortunei, Pinus bungeana, Sabina chinensis, Viburnum odoratissimum, Photinia serratifolia, Pittosporum tobira, Fatsia japonica, etc.

Nitrogen-fixing plants: Robinia, Lonicera, Albizia, Amorpha fruticosa, Caragana, Glycine, Lespedeza, Melilotus, Pisum, Phaseolus, Myrica, Elaeagnus, Cycas

Nectar-source, bird-attracting and butterfly-attracting plants: Taxus cuspidata, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Torreya grandis, Ilex crenata, Cinnamomum camphora, Myrica rubra, Ligustrum lucidum, Ternstroemia gymnanthera, Viburnum dilatatum, Aucuba japonica, Mahonia fortunei, Pyracantha fortuneana, Buxus sinica, Pittosporum tobira, Fatsia japonica, etc., Buddleja davidii, Pistacia chinensis, and other fragrant-flowered plants (such as plants of the genus Citrus in the family Rutaceae)

Perennial (herbaceous perennial) flowers: Kniphofia uvaria (torch lily), Lupinus polyphyllus, Festuca glauca, Astilbe chinensis, Coreopsis grandiflora, Lysimachia christinae, Origanum vulgare, Hibiscus moscheutos, Mentha haplocalyx (red-flowered), Trachelospermum jasminoides (variegated), Delosperma cooperi, Helleborus thibetanus, Lycoris radiata, Hemerocallis fulva, Iris tectorum, Tradescantia virginiana, Hosta plantaginea, Canna indica (variegated), Canna indica (red-leaved), Aster novi-belgii, Farfugium japonicum, Bletilla striata, Verbena canadensis (perennial)

Flowering trees and shrubs of the four seasons:

Spring: various cherry blossoms (early cherry, late cherry, weeping cherry, etc.), various crabapples (Malus micromalus, Chaenomeles sinensis, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.), Magnoliaceae (Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia liliflora 'Nigra', Michelia figo, Michelia maudiae, etc.), Cercis chinensis, red-leaf

plum, peach blossom, camellia, winter jasmine, lilac, etc.

Summer: Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Hydrangea macrophylla, Michelia figo, Rhododendron (summer azalea), Punica granatum (flowering pomegranate), Gardenia jasminoides, Campsis grandiflora, Albizia julibrissin, Acacia farnesiana. Autumn: Osmanthus fragrans, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, flowering pomegranate, Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis grandiflora, etc.

Winter: Lonicera japonica, Nandina domestica, plum blossom, Michelia figo, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, etc.

Classification of common greening tree species:

(1) Evergreen coniferous trees

1. Tree category: Cedrus deodara, Pinus koraiensis, Pinus thunbergii, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca', Pinus massoniana, Sabina chinensis, Cycas revoluta, Araucaria cunninghamii, Cryptomeria japonica, Torreya grandis

2. Shrub category: (Podocarpus macrophyllus), Platycladus orientalis 'Sieboldii', Calocedrus macrolepis, Sabina procumbens, Cryptomeria japonica var. sinensis, Pinus parviflora

(2) Deciduous coniferous trees (no shrubs):

Tree category: Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Pseudolarix amabilis, Taxodium ascendens, Taxodium distichum

(3) Evergreen broadleaf trees:

1. Tree category: Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Ligustrum lucidum, Trachycarpus fortunei

2. Shrub category: Viburnum odoratissimum, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia 'Nana', Ilex cornuta, Citrus reticulata, Photinia serratifolia, Pittosporum tobira, Osmanthus fragrans, Nerium oleander, Jasminum fruticans, Jasminum nudiflorum, Aucuba japonica (spotted), Nandina domestica, Serissa japonica, Ligustrum sinense, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia jasminoides, Distylium racemosum, Camellia japonica, Hypericum monogynum, Rhododendron simsii, Yucca gloriosa (yucca, arrow hemp), Cycas revoluta (sago palm), Mahonia fortunei

(4) Deciduous broadleaf trees:

1. Tree category: Salix babylonica, Salix matsudana (upright), Pterocarya stenoptera, Salix matsudana 'Tortuosa', Sapium sebiferum, Sophora japonica, Firmiana simplex (Chinese parasol

tree), Platanus x acerifolia (London plane), Sophora japonica (Chinese scholar tree), Sophora japonica var. pendula, Albizia julibrissin, Ginkgo biloba, Melia azedarach, Catalpa ovata

2. Shrub category: Prunus serrulata, Magnolia denudata, Prunus persica, Chimonanthus praecox, Lagerstroemia indica, Cercis chinensis, Catalpa bungei, Acer palmatum (green maple), Prunus cerasifera f. atropurpurea, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Hydrangea macrophylla, Hydrangea macrophylla (lacecap), Forsythia viridissima, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hibiscus syriacus, Alchornea davidii, Punica granatum

(5) Bamboo category: Bambusa multiplex, Phyllostachys sulphurea, Phyllostachys edulis, Phyllostachys nigra, Bambusa multiplex 'Nana', Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf', Bambusa ventricosa, Bambusa multiplex 'Alphonse Karr'

(6) Vines: Wisteria sinensis, Trachelospermum jasminoides, Parthenocissus tricuspidata (Boston ivy, wall-climbing ivy), Hedera helix, Vitis vinifera, Euonymus fortunei

(7) Flowers: Portulaca grandiflora, Gaillardia pulchella, Salvia splendens, Canna indica, Alternanthera bettzickiana, Brassica oleracea (ornamental cabbage), Chrysanthemum morifolium, Cymbidium spp.

(8) Lawn: Zoysia tenuifolia, Zoysia japonica, Ophiopogon japonicus, Lolium perenne (evergreen grass), Festuca arundinacea, Zoysia matrella, Trifolium repens, Dichondra repens

Detailed Table of Commonly Used Plant Combinations

Table of Commonly Used Street Trees

Name | Scientific name | Family | Tree shape | Characteristics

Cinnamomum camphora | Cinnamomun camphcra | Lauraceae | Spherical | Evergreen large tree, leaves alternate, triplinerved, aromatic, berries spherical.

London plane | Platanus x acerifolia | Platanaceae | Ovate | Prefers warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerates pruning. Broad crown and dense shade, suitable as a street tree and shade tree.

Maple | Liquidamdar formosana Hance. | Hamamelidaceae | Conical | Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form

Flamboyant tree | Delonix regia Raffin | Fabaceae (Caesalpinioideae) | Umbrella-shaped | Sun-loving, prefers warm-hot climates, not cold-tolerant, fast-growing, pollution-resistant, wind-resistant; flowers red and beautiful, flowering period May to August

Silk tree | Albizia julibrissin | Mimosaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as a shade ornamental tree and street tree

Sweet acacia | Albizia farnesiana Wild. | Mimosaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Deciduous small tree, fast-growing, dense branches and leaves, flowers golden yellow, excellent tree vigor

Weeping willow | Salix babylonica Linn. | Salicaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Deciduous small tree, suitable for low-lying land, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, beautiful tree form

Banyan tree | Ficus retusa Linn. | Moraceae | Spherical | Deciduous tree, broad crown, fast-growing, strong canopy density, suitable for various forms of pruning

Camphor tree | Cinnamomum camphora Ness. | Lauraceae | Spherical | Evergreen tree, broad crown, large and rounded, grows vigorously, beautiful tree form

Chinese fan palm | Livitonia chinensis R.Br. | Arecaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Single upright trunk, leaf surface dark green, grows vigorously, very beautiful posture

Longan tree | Euphoria longana Lanark. | Sapindaceae | Round | Evergreen tree with round crown, strong canopy density, relatively slow-growing, very beautiful posture

Chinaberry (bead tree) | Melia azedarach Linn. | Meliaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Deciduous tree, fast-growing, crown irregular, roughly umbrella-shaped, flowers pale purple

Chinese parasol tree | Sterculia platanifolia L. | Sterculiaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Evergreen tree, broad leaf surface, fast-growing, upright when young, crown spreading when old

Paper mulberry | Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. | Moraceae | Umbrella-shaped | Evergreen tree, leaves huge and soft-thin, branches spreading in all directions, umbrella-shaped crown, beautiful posture

Formosan alder | Alnus formosana Makino. | Fagaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Evergreen tree, tolerant of moisture and heat, unsuitable for dry land and hard soil, tall and beautiful tree form

Ash tree | Faxinus insularis Hemsl. | Oleaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Evergreen tree, vigorous, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape. Hoop pine | Araucaria cuninghamii | Araucariaceae | Conical | Evergreen coniferous tree, sun-loving, prefers warm-hot climates, not cold-tolerant, fertilizer-loving, fast-growing, narrow conical crown, graceful posture

Qinghai spruce | Picea carassifolia | Pinaceae | Tower-shaped | Evergreen coniferous tree, neutral, shallow-rooted, suitable for the Northwest region

Korean pine | Pinus koraiensis | Pinaceae | Tower-shaped | Evergreen coniferous tree, weakly sun-loving, prefers cool-humid climates and acidic soil, needles blue-green

Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis) | Sabina chinensis | Cupressaceae | Conical | Evergreen coniferous tree, sun-loving, young trees slightly shade-tolerant, tolerant of drought and poor soil, cold-tolerant, slightly moisture-tolerant, tolerates pruning, good dust-blocking and sound-insulating effect

Southern magnolia | Magnolia grandiflora L. | Magnoliaceae | Ovate | Evergreen tree, flowers large, white and fragrant, beautiful tree form

Formosan acacia | Acacia confusa Merr. | Fabaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Evergreen tree, bark smooth when young, rough when old, trunk mostly curved, strong growth

Date palm | Phoenix dactylifera L. | Arecaceae | Feather-shaped | Evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk branching, strong heat resistance, grows vigorously, beautiful posture

Canary Island date palm | Phoenix dactylifera | Arecaceae | Feather-shaped | Evergreen broadleaf tree, trunk thick and sturdy, tall and majestic, feather leaves dense and spreading

Royal palm (great king coconut) | Oreodoxa regia H.B.K. | Arecaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Single upright trunk, can reach 18 m in height, slightly swollen in the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, great ornamental value

Ginkgo | Ginkgo biloba | Ginkgoaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Deciduous broadleaf tree, autumn leaves yellow, cold-tolerant, deep-rooted, not tolerant of waterlogging, resistant to a variety of toxic gases

Chinese tulip tree (horse jacket tree) | Liriodendron chinense | Magnoliaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm-humid climates, relatively strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast-growing, long-lived, leaf shape resembling a horse jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.

Chinese white poplar | Populus tomentosa | Salicaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers cool-temperate climates, pollution-resistant, deep-rooted, fast-growing, relatively long-lived; tree form upright, trunk straight, bark gray-white

Lombardy poplar | Populus nigra var. italica | Salicaceae | Narrow cylindrical | Deciduous broadleaf tree, cold-tolerant and drought-tolerant, slightly tolerant of saline-alkali and waterlogging, fast-growing

Chinese elm | Ulmus parvifolia | Ulmaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm-humid climates, tolerant of drought and poor soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke and toxic gases, strong dust-retention capacity

Box elder (ash-leaved maple) | Acer negundo | Aceraceae | Umbrella-shaped | Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool-humid climates, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light saline-alkali, tolerates pruning, autumn leaves yellow {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

Table of Traits of Commonly Used Landscape Trees

Name | Scientific name | Family | Tree shape | Characteristics

Cinnamomum camphora | Cinnamomun camphcra | Lauraceae | Spherical | Evergreen large tree, leaves alternate, triplinerved, aromatic, berries spherical.

London plane | Platanus x acerifolia | Platanaceae | Ovate | Prefers warmth, pollution-resistant, tolerates pruning. Broad crown and dense shade, suitable as a street tree and shade tree.

Southern magnolia | Magnolia grandiflora L. | Magnoliaceae | Ovate | Evergreen tree, flowers large, white and fragrant, beautiful tree form

Yulan magnolia | Magnolia denudata | Magnoliaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Quite cold-tolerant, afraid of waterlogging. Flowers large pure white, blooms March to April. Suitable for courtyard viewing.

Chinese tulip tree (horse jacket tree) | Liriodendron chinense | Magnoliaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm-humid climates, relatively strong resistance, fertile acidic soil, fast-growing, long-lived, leaf shape resembling a horse jacket, flowers yellow-green, large and beautiful.

Chinese arborvitae | Thuja orientalis Linn | Cupressaceae | Conical | Evergreen tree, tree form neat when young, mostly curved when old, strong growth, long-lived, beautiful tree form

Ash tree | Faxinus insularis Hemsl. | Oleaceae | Round | Evergreen tree, vigorous, fast-growing, beautiful tree form and leaf shape. Bischofia | Bischoffia javanica Blanco | Euphorbiaceae | Round | Evergreen tree, very beautiful when young leaves sprout, grows vigorously, beautiful tree form

Weeping willow | Salix babylonica Linn. | Salicaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Deciduous small tree, suitable for low-lying land, grows luxuriantly and rapidly, beautiful tree form

Chinese incense cedar | Calocedrus macrolepis Kurz | Cupressaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Evergreen tree, bark gray-brown, irregularly longitudinally fissured; branchlets alternate, green when young, flattened.

Royal palm | Roystonea regia | Arecaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Single upright trunk, can reach 18 m in height, slightly swollen in the middle, pinnate compound leaves, very strong vitality, great ornamental value

Japanese euonymus | Euonymus japonica | Celastraceae | Ovate | Prefers warm-humid climates, resistant to toxic gases. Grown for foliage. Suitable for hedges and foundation planting.

Maple | Liquidamdar formosana Hance. | Hamamelidaceae | Conical | Deciduous tree, bark gray and smooth, leaves triangular, slow-growing, beautiful tree form

Chinese wingnut | Pterocarya stenoptera | Juglandaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Strong adaptability, tolerant of waterlogging, fast-growing. Suitable as shade tree, street tree, bank-protection tree

Creeping juniper | Sabina procumbens | Cupressaceae | Evergreen creeping dwarf shrub, branches and trunk spreading and crawling on the ground, leaves needle-like. Slow-growing, unique tree form, branches and leaves verdant and smooth. Suitable for ground cover and beautification around courtyard stones, ponds, sand pits, slopes, etc. {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

Golden dewdrop | Duranta repens | Verbenaceae | Round | Evergreen shrub. Suitable for large potted plants, flower troughs, hedges. Golden dewdrop with yellow leaves is mainly grown for foliage, widely used, can be used as ground cover, pruned into shapes, formed into patterns or used for color-emphasis planting, dazzling and eye-catching. Chinese holly | Ilex cornuta | Aquifoliaceae | Round | Resistant to toxic gases, slow-growing. Green leaves and red berries, very beautiful. Suitable for foundation planting. Paper mulberry | Broussonetia papyrifera Vent. | Moraceae | Umbrella-shaped | Evergreen tree, leaves huge and soft-thin, branches spreading in all directions, beautiful posture

Chinese elm | Ulmus parvifolia | Ulmaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers warm-humid climates, tolerant of drought and poor soil, deep-rooted, fast-growing, long-lived, resistant to smoke and toxic gases, strong dust-retention capacity

Chinese juniper | Juniperus Chinensis Linn | Cupressaceae | Conical | Evergreen medium tree, branches densely borne, dark green, grows vigorously, suitable for pruning, beautiful tree form

Pittosporum | Pittosporum tobira | Pittosporaceae | Round | White flowers fragrant, blooms in May. Suitable for foundation planting, as a hedge or potted plant. Date palm | Phoenix dactylifera Linn | Arecaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Trunk tillering, can reach 20-25 m in height, leaves gray-white with arched curvature, grows vigorously, beautiful tree form

Hankow willow | Salix matsudana | Salicaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Suitable as shade tree, street tree, bank-protection tree

Silk tree | Albizia julibrissin | Mimosaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Flowers pink, June to July, suitable as a shade ornamental tree and street tree

Japanese black pine | Pinus Thumbergii Porl. | Pinaceae | Conical | Evergreen tree, bark gray-brown, branchlets orange-yellow, needles hard and borne two per cluster, long-lived

Purple-leaf plum | Prunus cerasifera. F.arropurpurea | Rosaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Deciduous small tree, branchlets smooth, red-brown, leaves ovate, entirely purple-red, blooms small pale pink flowers in April, drupe purple. Suitable for both solitary and group planting, as a foil background.

Washington fan palm | Washingtonia filifera Wend. | Arecaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Single cylindrical trunk, swollen at the base, up to 4-8 m tall, leaf blade fan-shaped and round, grows vigorously, beautiful tree form {Maintenance measures for the southern plant date palm}.

Chinese scholar tree | Sophora japonica | Fabaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Branches and leaves dense, crown broad, suitable as shade tree, street tree

Glaucous cassia | Cassia glauca Lam. | Fabaceae | Round | Deciduous tree, evenly pinnate compound leaves, flowers yellow, fast-growing, beautiful tree form

Box elder (ash-leaved maple) | Acer negundo | Aceraceae | Umbrella-shaped | Deciduous broadleaf tree, prefers fertile soil and cool-humid climates, tolerant of smoke and dust, tolerant of dry cold, tolerant of light saline-alkali, tolerates pruning, autumn leaves yellow

Japanese maple | Acer palmatum | Aceraceae | Umbrella-shaped | Elegant leaf shape, autumn leaves red. Suitable for courtyard viewing and potted plants.

Golden larch | Pseudolarix amabilis Rehd. | Pinaceae | Ovate tower-shaped | Evergreen tree, branches and leaves spread out, leaves linear, alternate on long shoots, leaflets radial, tree form strong and upright.

Bottle palm | Hyophorbe amaricaulis Mart. | Arecaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Trunk about 3 m tall, base oval and swollen, forming a wine bottle, very beautiful posture

Mandarin tree | Citrus reticulata | Rutaceae | Round | Flowers white, fruit yellow-green, fragrant. Suitable for group planting.

Chinaberry | Melia azedarch Linn. | Meliaceae | Round | Deciduous tree, bark gray-brown, bipinnate odd-pinnate compound leaves, flowers purple, fast-growing

Snow rose | Serissa serissoides | Rubiaceae | Round | Evergreen small shrub. Leaf color dark green, flowers snow-white, slightly pale pink. Branches and leaves slender, fine texture, suitable for potted plants, low hedges, ground cover, flower beds, pruning into shapes.

Dragon juniper | Juniperus chinensis var. Kaituka, Hort | Cupressaceae | Upright tower-shaped | Evergreen medium tree, branches densely borne, dark green, grows vigorously, very long-lived, very beautiful tree form

Dragon-claw pagoda tree | S. j. cv. Pendula | Fabaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Branches drooping, suitable for courtyard viewing, opposite or row planting

Dragon-claw willow | S. m. cv. Tortuosa | Salicaceae | Round | Branches twisted like a dragon roaming, suitable as shade tree, ornamental tree

Pygmy date palm | Phehix Roebelenii Brien. | Arecaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Trunk upright, 2 m tall, petioles thin and small, leaflets alternate or opposite, an excellent variety with beautiful leaves

Buddhist pine | Podocaarpus macrophyllus D. Don | Podocarpaceae | Long conical | Evergreen tree, elegant and simple posture, can be pruned as premium bonsai material, or shaped into round, conical, layered forms for courtyard landscaping and beautification.

Masson pine | Pinus massoniana Lamb. | Pinaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Evergreen tree, trunk bark red-brown, winter buds brown, large trees majestic

Nandina | Nandina domestica | Berberidaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Branches and leaves elegant, red berries in autumn and winter; courtyard viewing, can be group-planted or potted. Hoop pine | Araucaria ecelsa Br. | Araucariaceae | Conical | Evergreen coniferous tree, branches whorled, lower ones drooping, leaves dark green, beautiful tree form, grows vigorously

Glossy privet | Ligustrum lucidum | Oleaceae | Ovate | Flowers white, blooms in June. Suitable as a hedge or street tree.

Chinese fan palm | Livistona chinensis R. Br. | Arecaceae | Umbrella-shaped | Trunk upright, can reach 6-12 m tall, leaves round, petiole margins spiny, grows luxuriantly, elegant posture

Globe Chinese juniper | Junlperus chinensis cv. Globosa. | Cupressaceae | Broadly round | Shrub, no main trunk, branches clustered.

Green Maple Acer serrulatum, Aceraceae, umbrella-shaped conical, deciduous tree. Trunk upright. The tree has a light and graceful posture and can be trained into an elegant bonsai; it is a graceful street tree, landscape tree, and forest-bathing tree.

Boxwood B. bodinieri, Buxaceae, ovate. Branches and leaves are fine and dense, suitable for garden viewing. It can be planted in clumps, used as a hedge, or grown in pots. Japanese Cedar Cryptomeria japonica D. Don, Taxodiaceae, conical, ovate, rounded, evergreen tree. Branches whorled, graceful

Chapter Eight: "Cultivation and Care of Palm Family Plants"

The palm family is a very distinctive group of evergreen plants in the monocotyledon class, with stems single or clustered, upright or climbing; leaves clustered at the top of the stem, a well-developed root system, tolerance to drought, tolerance to poor soil, and strong resistance to pests and diseases, making them outstanding for creating tropical-style garden landscapes. This edition introduces their introduction, transplanting, and disease control.

Brief Introduction to the Introduction Process

There are 183 genera and about 2,400 species of palms worldwide, widely distributed in the tropical and subtropical humid regions of the world. High temperature and high humidity are important conditions for the normal growth and development of most palms. A few palms have a unique ability to adapt to adverse environments, such as the Silver Date Palm (wild date palm) distributed in extremely arid areas at the edge of deserts, as well as many palm species that can tolerate long-term waterlogging, such as the Swamp Palm. Most palm plants are rich in fiber, with tough stems and well-developed root systems, and have strong wind resistance, such as the False Betel Nut Palm and the Chinese Fan Palm.

Since the 1940s, in the construction of many tropical and subtropical cities around the world, the landscape value of palms has been recognized, and they have been used as key species for urban greening and beautification, such as in Miami in the United States, Jakarta in India, Bangkok in Thailand, as well as Cape Town in South Africa and Singapore.

Some landscaping companies in Guangdong began the work of introducing and applying palms in the early 1980s. Over the following more than 20 years, southern provinces and regions such as Guangxi, Fujian, and Yunnan, and later Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai, Chongqing, and Yunnan, successively set off a boom in palm introduction, production, and application.

Led by Guangdong Palm Landscape Company and several other units, based on theories of plant geography and ecology, through observational research on the growth conditions and mortality rates of introduced and acclimatized palms, it was found that plants native to the Northern Hemisphere generally have cold tolerance potential because they experienced ancient glacial climates, while species native to high latitudes and high altitudes in the Southern Hemisphere also have relatively strong cold tolerance. Through research on the cold tolerance and cold-tolerance mechanisms of palms, researchers found that the main factors affecting introduction and acclimatization are: temperature, light, humidity, moisture, and soil. The most significant effect of the temperature factor is governing plant growth and development; low winter temperatures are the leading factor affecting the success or failure of palm introduction and acclimatization. Through research on salt tolerance and shade tolerance of palms, researchers selected a group of varieties with relatively strong saline-alkaline tolerance and shade tolerance; at the same time, through the control of diseases and pests such as palm Phytophthora disease, coconut leaf beetle, and red palm weevil, the incidence of palm pests and diseases was greatly reduced. In addition, researchers also studied the mechanism of palm seed germination, summarized and invented techniques for accelerating palm seed germination, mastered full-crown transplanting of palms and cultivation techniques for large-specification container seedlings, and did highly effective work on soil improvement, winter cold protection and preservation, and other techniques.

At present, researchers have screened and promoted about 80 species of palms in South China, including Royal Palm, Chinese Fan Palm, Broadleaf Lady Palm, South Palm, and Fishtail Palm; in Shanghai and surrounding areas, the palm species successfully applied mainly include Butia Palm, Mexican Washingtonia, Canary Island Date Palm, Washington Palm, and more than ten others. Experts have appraised the related research techniques as reaching the world's advanced level.

Taking the Washington Palm as an Example

On the Occurrence and Control of Phytophthora Disease

Damage and General Symptoms of Palm Phytophthora Disease

This disease often occurs and causes damage on palms such as Royal Palm, Large Chinese Fan Palm, Washington Palm, Mexican Fan Palm, and Canary Island Date Palm. On affected plants, the central leaf cannot emerge normally, new leaves shrink and dry up, and in severe cases the entire plant withers in patches. The pathogen of Phytophthora disease is caused by Phytophthora and can be identified by incubation in an incubator. The pathogen mainly overwinters in soil or on diseased plant residues. The pathogen spreads through watering, rain splash, air movement, and so on.

Occurrence Pattern of Phytophthora Disease on Washington Palm

This disease occurs during the high-temperature and high-humidity period between summer and autumn. Drought followed by rain, or poor management after transplanting, such as heavy watering, causes soil moisture content to

suddenly increase, poor ventilation, or plants located in wind gaps are prone to infection. The disease is severe in low-lying, poorly drained, and continuous-cropping plots. In addition, the disease is often related to severe root damage caused when digging seedlings and then long-distance transport.

When it occurs, the base of the unexpanded young central leaf rots, and the leaves turn grayish green and droop; with slight force they can be pulled out. Dissecting the stem, the growth point and even the entire central part of the plant show mushy secretions and a foul odor, and the infected tissue can grow white mold-like material. In severely affected plants, root damage is also often seen, with the main symptoms being blackened, rotted roots and an abnormal

odor. This disease mainly occurs at the seedling stage and in nurseries; adult trees planted in green spaces are less often affected.

Symptoms

In recent years, the damage has been relatively severe in nursery land. In the early stage of the disease, yellowish-brown water-soaked lesions first appear near the ground; the lesions rapidly expand, are slightly sunken, and in humid conditions the surface is densely covered with white cottony mold, and the diseased part rots and smells bad. When it occurs on leaves, the diseased part is yellowish brown, and white mold grows under humid conditions. When it occurs on stems, it is initially dark green, then expands, becomes moist and soft, and later the upper part appears withered. This disease can harm the entire palm plant. Sometimes purulent liquid oozes when the root system and stem are cut open, and in severe cases the edges of the veins of young leaves carry large amounts of gray-black mycelium. Phytophthora disease is a vascular bundle disease; in severe cases the entire plant wilts, droops, dries up, and eventually dies, with a high mortality rate.

According to surveys, the peak period of this disease is mostly the high-temperature and high-humidity period, that is, the suitable temperature is 27°C to 35°C. For example, in 2006, the disease period in the coastal areas near the Pearl River Delta was July to October, in Xiamen August to November, in Shanghai June to September (also occurring in early spring), and in the mountainous areas of western Pearl River Delta August to November, but in all places the disease could be seen within 1 to 2 months after typhoons and rainstorms, sometimes occurring sporadically, sometimes in patches.

Control Methods

I. Preventive Cultivation Measures

1. Pay attention to ventilation, dryness, and drainage in the nursery. In autumn and winter each year, prune leaves moderately, and dig pits and earth up the planting site to keep the nursery land dry. At ordinary times, increase potassium fertilizer, and also apply quicklime and superphosphate separately, to enhance the density of plant tissues and resistance to infection, and improve the disease resistance of plants.

2. Choose a good plot; select loam or sandy loam land with high terrain and good drainage for planting.

3. Implement crop rotation; land that has been planted with Washington Palm should be rotated for more than three to four years.

4. Strengthen field management, increase organic fertilizer, promote robust plant growth with deep roots and lush leaves, and improve resistance. Implement high-ridge (bed) cultivation. Properly control watering in the rainy season, drain promptly after rain so that the ground dries after rain; water promptly in drought, and strictly prohibit flood irrigation when watering, and do it on sunny afternoons or in the evening.

5. Achieve prevention first and integrated control. Observe regularly at ordinary times, often prune dead branches and fallen leaves, and when diseased plants are found, clean them up promptly, bury them deeply or burn them, and disinfect the diseased holes with lime.

II. Chemical Control

One to two months before the onset of disease in summer and during the disease period, use 64% Sandofan wettable powder (1:500 to 600), 80% fosetyl-aluminum (1:400), or other hymexazol-type products such as Kameitong, that is, soil fungicide (common dosage 600 to 700 times), lime-sulfur mixture (1:1:100), and Dexon (500 times). Specific control methods: when transplanting Washington Palm, first spray the planting site and the roots of Washington Palm with 600 to 700 times soil fungicide solution, or on consecutive sunny days first dig pits and expose them to the sun for sterilization, or spread lime powder for disinfection, or use 500 times Dexon solution for soil disinfection.

After a typhoon, promptly spray Sandofan (better) or fosetyl-aluminum (prone to resistance), add 0.4% washing powder, and pour into the heart or spray for both prevention and treatment. You can also spray 80% mancozeb 700 times solution once every 7 to 10 days, spraying two or three times in succession, which can effectively prevent and control the occurrence of Phytophthora disease. After adopting these measures, the Washington Palm and Mexican Washingtonia at the Shanghai base of Guangdong Palm Landscape Company have dropped from a disease incidence of 20% in 2004 to below 10%.

Experience in Control

The control effect of using carbendazim and similar products is not obvious. If, in the early stage of disease, all leaves are cut off and the plant is transplanted elsewhere, about 30% can gradually revive after 2 to 3 years, but the growth is poor.

It is understood that this disease rarely occurs in high-temperature and dry areas such as Los Angeles, so this disease is related to high temperature and high humidity, and the infection route is through surface water, groundwater, and rainwater. When the plant's root system, trunk, leaves, and so on are damaged, the pathogen invades and multiplies greatly when moisture is sufficient, ultimately causing blockage of the vascular conducting tissue, and the plant dies from water loss and wilting. The heart rot disease introduced in some literature is actually also Phytophthora disease, only occurring at the central leaf site.

This disease is different from anthracnose, which occurs on leaves, with small water-soaked spots appearing at onset and then expanding into larger lesions, and is easy to find; it can generally be controlled with agents such as carbendazim. As for leaf spot disease, it refers to diseases occurring on leaves, with common pathogens such as Phyllosticta and Pestalotiopsis, often causing leaf blight, but anthracnose and leaf spot disease rarely cause plant death. Transplanting Techniques for Single-Trunk Large Seedlings

Preparation Before Transplanting

1. Root-prune the seedlings to be transplanted in advance. After root pruning, the soil ball size is twice the ground diameter, and the root-pruning depth is 50 cm to 60 cm. After root pruning, remove stones and broken roots from the soil and backfill promptly, and maintain moisture: the purpose is to train the adaptability of the seedlings and promote new roots. After root pruning, it is best to keep them for more than 30 days, and transplant only when new roots begin to sprout. If using heeling-in seedlings, the effect is better.

2. Dig holes and prepare the ground. The planting site should have holes dug 20 days before transplanting; the hole specification is generally 1.5 times the soil ball. The soil from digging the holes should be exposed to the sun in the open for a period, and the backfill soil is best a pre-prepared mixed soil: pond mud + farmyard manure or mushroom soil + an appropriate amount of matured phosphate fertilizer + an appropriate amount of river sand, with sand:soil at 4:6.

Planting Time

In the Pearl River Delta region, transplanting can be done throughout the year, with spring and autumn being best; try to avoid summer and winter, especially January and July. Most palms like warmth and humidity. In summer, temperatures are high, seedlings evaporate water quickly, and it is easy to cause excessive water loss and affect survival; in winter, temperatures are low, some places even have frost, and strong north winds can easily cause frost injury or even death of seedlings.

Moving Seedlings

Some single-trunk palm large seedlings have relatively thick stems, the workload of moving seedlings is large, and the seedlings are very easily injured. Therefore, when moving seedlings, wrap the trunk with burlap bags or straw, especially the green wrapped trunk portion at the boundary between trunk and leaf stalk. First, it protects the trunk; second, it preserves moisture and prevents sunburn. In addition, when lifting seedlings, combine with pruning leaves, remove old leaves, and retain 40% to 45% of the leaves (specifically determined according to tree vigor). At the same time, cut off 1/5 of the leaves together with the leaf stalks, to minimize water evaporation.

Planting

It is best to plant seedlings on the same day they are dug; if the time is too long, the seedlings evaporate a lot of water and are prone to water loss affecting survival. If they cannot all be planted the same day, cover them with shade netting and spray a small amount of water on the leaf surface every day, doing good shading and moisture preservation.

1. Backfilling soil. Once the seedling is positioned, backfill soil. When the backfill reaches half the height of the soil ball, first compact the loose soil. After backfilling is complete, make the soil mound into a "water storage basin" slightly higher around the edges and slightly lower in the middle, to facilitate watering and moisture preservation.

2. Watering. After backfilling, immediately water thoroughly to settle the roots. Before watering, first use bamboo poles and the like to firm the loose soil around the soil ball until the loose soil no longer sinks.

3. Fixing. There are many kinds of supports; using three bamboo poles to form a triangular support is the most economical and practical one. Tie at a height of 2/3 of the trunk.

Post-Planting Management

1. Moisture preservation. Spray the leaves and trunk wrapping twice a day, except on rainy days, just enough to wet the leaves and trunk wrapping. Do not water the roots, because excess water will flow downward, and water accumulation will cause root rot. Cover the area around the tree base with straw for sun protection, prevent excessive soil temperature differences from causing soil compaction, and keep the soil around the soil ball loose, moist, and aerated, which is beneficial for new root sprouting.

2. Wind protection. Because transplanted single-trunk palm large seedlings are generally taller and are often affected by thunderstorms and strong winds after transplanting, check regularly after planting whether the supports are loose, and especially after strong winds, if the trunk is found to be leaning, straighten and tie it promptly.

3. Topdressing. About one month after planting, urea water can be used as foliar topdressing by spraying, with topdressing about once every half month. After the first new leaf grows and matures, use fully decomposed peanut bran for hole fertilization. Dig the hole beyond the edge of the soil ball in a ring-shaped trench, with trench width and depth each 30 cm, and the fertilizer and backfill soil must be mixed evenly.

4. Pest and disease control. Newly transplanted single-trunk palm large seedlings are relatively weak in tree vigor and are very susceptible to pests and diseases, especially young leaves and central leaves. For insect control, 5% methamidophos plus 5% omethoate can be applied. At present, the invasive pest "coconut leaf beetle" is quite serious to palms; adults and larvae gather in the overlapping spaces of the not-yet-unfolded central leaves and chew the leaf flesh, causing part or all of the newly emerged leaves to wither and die, and affected plants grow slowly or even die. The control methods include the following: ① 81% malathion emulsion 1000 times solution; ② cypermethrin 500 times solution; ③ use "Yejiaqing", all of which can achieve good control effects. Based on practical operation, the author believes that the simplest, most convenient, and long-lasting method is to hang a packet of "Yejiaqing" on the central leaf during planting together with tying.

For single-trunk palm large seedlings, about one month after planting, whether they have survived can be roughly determined based on whether the leaves remain green, but to truly determine survival, one generally must wait until after one growing season, using whether new shoots and new roots have emerged as the standard. After the author adopted the above transplanting techniques in construction, the transplanting survival rate increased from the original 75% to more than 90%, and the above techniques are highly operable and worth promoting and applying.

Transplanting Techniques for Seedlings, Large Trees, and Clustered Seedlings

Key Techniques for Transplanting Seedlings

Palm plants are most suitable for transplanting for a period after germination and rooting. At this time the seedlings are small, can be transplanted with seeds, and have few fibrous roots, so the root system is not easily damaged when moving seedlings. Use nutrition bags for seedling cultivation; the size depends on the time for cultivating the seedlings. Generally speaking, 1-year-old seedlings are suitable with 16 cm x 18 cm containers, and 2-year-old seedlings with 19 cm x 20 cm. Too small a nutrition bag is not conducive to rapid seedling growth. Prepare nutrition soil with loose topsoil, burned soil, and wheat bran, mixed evenly in a 5:2:1 ratio with a small amount of phosphate fertilizer, then bag it. First fill half the bag with mixed soil, then place the seedling, then straighten the seedling, fill it full, and compact it so that the seedling root system and mixed soil are closely attached, then water thoroughly. Palms cannot be planted too deep, otherwise seedling growth will be affected. If too deep, lift the seedling upward so that the seedling root system spreads out.

Key Techniques for Transplanting Large Trees

Palm plants cultivated in nurseries for 5 to 10 years mostly need several rounds of bed transplanting, so selecting sparse-planted strong seedlings gives a relatively high survival rate.

Reduce damage to the root mass. Palm root tissues are tender, with many lateral roots and capillary roots. When lifting and digging, carry as large a soil ball as possible and prevent it from loosening and cracking. Minimize the degree of root mass damage so as to maintain normal respiration and water absorption capacity and improve the transplanting survival rate. During construction, set out lines and fix holes accurately, avoid rework, and prevent the soil ball from loosening.

Leaf pruning. The amount of leaves retained during transplanting should be comprehensively determined according to different species, the climate at transplanting, and transplanting and maintenance conditions.

Generally, about 40% of the original leaf count should be retained. Retaining too many leaves will cause leaves to yellow and dry due to high water evaporation; retaining too few leaves makes plant recovery difficult and the cycle long, and the initial landscape effect is also poor.

Protect the plant stem and its pseudostem. During lifting, digging, carrying, loading, and unloading of the plant, the stem should be protected from damage, and the pseudostem part should not be squeezed or bent; this is the guarantee of plant health and rapid regrowth.

Soil at the new planting site. Palms damage root tips during transplanting, and within one month after transplanting it is difficult for new root tips to sprout, so water absorption capacity is weak. At this time, good soil permeability and aeration are beneficial to seedling survival, so when planting, dig large holes and pay attention to the quality of imported soil, adding peat soil and compound fertilizer to facilitate palm recovery after planting.

Maintenance. Within one month after planting, the plant has poor adaptability, so the seedlings should be carefully maintained, water must be replenished promptly, and proper shading should be provided, striving to have new leaves sprout within three months. If continuous rainy weather occurs for several days after transplanting, palm seedlings recover better, because rainy days can avoid adverse factors such as scorching sun exposure.

Key Techniques for Transplanting Large Clustered Seedlings

Clustered palm species have multiple growth points, and after growing into a multi-stemmed clustered state, they can grow new roots relatively quickly after transplanting. However, clustered palms also have disadvantages such as heavy trunks, large leaf area causing high water evaporation, and poor ventilation making them vulnerable to strong winds. Therefore, in addition to handling them according to single-trunk palm transplanting, the following technical measures should be added:

1. Implement the "hair root method" for transplanting, that is, after digging out a relatively large soil ball, use a small shovel to remove part of the soil along the outer edge of the soil ball, retain more fibrous roots and a moderate soil ball, and then immediately wrap it with light moisture-preserving material, to reduce the weight of the soil ball while ensuring survival. For example, this method can be used for transplanting slower-recovering clustered palms such as Fishtail Palm and Three-Stemmed Betel Nut.

2. Implement bare-root heeling-in or pot planting for centralized maintenance until new roots sprout and the plant stabilizes, then formally plant. This method is suitable for robust clustered palms such as Areca Palm, Ptychosperma, and Hawaiian Palm, and can reduce transport costs and facilitate construction.

In short, for transplanting large palm seedlings and large trees, in brief, five aspects should be well handled, namely: select strong seedlings; dig good soil balls and transport them carefully; prune leaves moderately; ensure aeration and drainage at the planting site; and do a good job of post-planting maintenance, sun protection, and moisture preservation. The sign of successful transplanting of large seedlings and large trees is being able to retain most leaves within half a year after planting and to sprout new leaves, among which sprouting three healthy new leaves is complete transplanting success

Drainage: First understand the hydrological conditions of the planting site, and try to place the very bottom of the soil ball at a position 100-150CM above the year-round groundwater level of the planting site with fertile and thick soil, and at the same time make a drainage layer for the root system of the underground soil ball and a surface runoff guiding network to prevent water accumulation in the soil ball after planting; if the hydrological conditions do not meet the requirements, the method of planting the soil ball raised high can be used, that is, first pile up the planting site with loose media mixed with fertile soil or coarse sand as much as possible to meet the above requirements, then place the plant on the soil pile, and fill and bury the soil ball with mixed loose soil or planting soil mixed with humus soil; remove debris from the soil around the planting site, or appropriately improve the soil with loose media, so as to achieve loose and breathable conditions for the plant roots; strengthen inspections in the rainy season, promptly clear drainage facilities and appropriately loosen the soil at the roots, to facilitate waterlogging prevention and drainage. Moisture preservation: immediately after planting, water once to settle the roots, ensuring that the root area of the soil ball is moist and closely combined with the surrounding soil, promoting root development, then water thoroughly three more times and promptly cover the soil ball to prevent the surface soil from cracking. In hot summer, spray more water on the ground and tree crown to increase environmental humidity and reduce transpiration; leaf moisture preservation treatments include a. newly planted seedlings should have leaves properly pruned to reduce the transpiration area of the leaves; b. appropriately spray antitranspirants on the leaves to inhibit plant physiological metabolism and reduce physiological water loss of the plant; c. under sunny weather conditions, spray atomized water on the leaves as much as possible to strengthen leaf water absorption and weaken transpiration; check the moisture status of the soil ball and roots at any time and replenish water promptly to ensure the moisture of the soil ball and the permeability of root respiration. Fertilization: in addition to preserving moisture for the plant after planting, appropriately spray low-concentration foliar fertilizer to strengthen post-planting nutritional supplementation; frequently check the root sprouting status of the plant, and if new roots are found growing, consider increasing root fertilization, generally choosing the season when the monthly average temperature is above 2O°C, mainly applying organic fertilizer as much as possible, appropriately adding compound fertilizer with high P and K content, to promote balanced plant nutrition and ensure its rapid recovery and healthy growth. Pest and disease control: spray pesticides to control pests and diseases before the seedlings leave the nursery, and after arriving at the site, the plants also need to be sprayed with pesticides before unloading, and ensure continuous pesticide application three times at intervals of one week to ten days within one month after planting, and then reasonably formulate a pest and disease control plan. Special

Chapter Nine: "Maintenance Plan"

Solid State Lighting (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd. Landscaping

Main

ten

ance

Plan

Nanjing Gensen Flowers and Trees Co., Ltd.

October 8, 2010

Project Overview

"Solid State Lighting (Nanjing) Optoelectronics Co., Ltd." is located at No. 31 Hengfei Road, Nanjing Economic and Technological Development Zone, with a factory green area of 28,186 sq m. The plant configuration in the factory greening is relatively reasonable, rich in color, and with obvious seasonal changes, forming a plant community with clear layers and natural ecology, basically displaying the natural landscape of plants. The arrangement of flowering shrubs and hedges among the factory buildings gives each factory area a different landscape style. Dozens of plant varieties such as camphor, southern magnolia, zelkova, osmanthus, and crape myrtle have been planted in the factory area, including a tree-lined avenue composed of large-specification camphor, and a guardhouse scenic spot composed of ancient red maple, fruiting pomegranate, Malus spectabilis, ginkgo, Canary Island Date Palm, and other varieties.

In view of the existing situation of the factory greening landscape, we believe that the initial greening construction was relatively extensive, with insufficient understanding of plant habits, especially the replacement of planting soil in the green areas was not in place, and in some areas the garbage soil was not replaced, resulting in poor plant growth.

Greening Maintenance Plan Schedule

January (Minor Cold, Major Cold)

1. Shaping and pruning of fruit trees.

2. Frequently check cold protection equipment, facilities, and seedling cold-protection wrapping.

3. Turn the soil for winter plowing and apply sufficient winter fertilizer.

4. Cut off dead, disabled, diseased, and pest-infested branches and leaves, thoroughly remove overwintering bagworm cases, stinging caterpillar cocoons, and latent overwintering pests.

February (Start of Spring, Rain Water)

1. Continue winter pruning of deciduous trees and fruit trees.

2. Continue cutting off diseased and pest-infested branches, and pay attention to observing the occurrence of pests and diseases (such as cottony cushion scale, giant mealybug, and the like).

3. Continue accumulating fertilizer and making compost, preparing culture soil, and continue applying winter fertilizer to various deciduous trees. March (Awakening of Insects, Spring Equinox)

The weather gradually warms, and many pests and diseases are about to occur. Maintain and repair various insect-control and disease-prevention equipment and prepare medicines. Pay attention to the occurrence of aphids and giant mealybugs, and achieve timely control. April (Pure Brightness, Grain Rain)

1. Do a good job in controlling scale insects, mites, cutworms, grubs, mole crickets, and other parasitic insects, as well as powdery mildew and rust.

2. Do a good job in loosening soil, weeding, and pre-flowering fertilization. Apply light fertilizer weekly to perennial flowers and spring-sown herbaceous flowers.

3. Do a good job in bud removal and pruning of trees. Remove excess young buds and improperly positioned branches at any time.

4. Dredge and repair the drainage system.

May (Start of Summer, Grain Full)

1. Carry out post-flowering pruning of shrubs that bloomed in spring and hedge pruning. According to technical operation requirements, carry out bud removal and pruning of trees, and prune and remove root sprouts of small seedlings at any time.

2. Continue strengthening tree maintenance and management, do a good job in replanting, thinning, and final singling of seedlings, increase topdressing, and apply light fertilizer frequently.

3. This month temperatures gradually rise, and pests and diseases greatly harm trees and flowers. Attention should be paid to pest forecasting and doing good work in pest and disease prevention.

4. Carry out lawn mowing and continue removing weeds from the lawn.

June (Grain in Ear, Summer Solstice)

1. This month enters the plum rain season, with high temperature and high humidity, so replanting should be carried out promptly.

2. Carry out post-flowering pruning and fertilization of flowering shrubs, and pinch and prune some spring-sown herbaceous flowers.

3. Continue removing weeds and continue mowing.

4. Do a good job in pest and disease control. This month focus on controlling pests such as bagworms, stinging caterpillars, tussock moths, inchworms, and tortoise wax scales, as well as leaf spot disease, anthracnose, and sooty mold.

July (Minor Heat, Major Heat)

1. This month the weather is hot and weeds grow quickly, so continue intertillage and weeding and loosening the soil.

2. Pests such as bagworms, stinging caterpillars, longhorn beetles, tortoise wax scales, armored scales, second-generation cottony cushion scale, and mites occur in large numbers, so attention should be paid to control, and at the same time continue controlling anthracnose, powdery mildew, leaf spot disease, and the like.

3. In the dog days with high temperatures and little rain, irrigation is needed to resist drought. This month is also a month with more rainstorms, so attention should be paid to waterlogging prevention.

4. This month enters the typhoon and tidal flood season, so typhoon prevention and flood prevention work should be done well, with frequent inspections and timely straightening of wind-thrown trees.

August (Start of Autumn, End of Heat)

1. Continue intertillage and weeding and loosening the soil.

2. Continue doing a good job in drought prevention and drainage to ensure normal seedling growth.

3. This month seedlings grow vigorously, so topdressing should be applied promptly; for small seedlings, apply light fertilizer frequently.

4. Continue doing a good job in typhoon prevention and flood prevention, and promptly straighten wind-thrown trees when found.

5. Continue doing a good job in pest and disease control, and conscientiously control the main pests harming trees (bagworms, second-generation stinging caterpillars, longhorn beetles, mites, and the like) and main diseases (powdery mildew, anthracnose, leaf spot disease, and the like).

September (White Dew, Autumn Equinox)

1. Continue doing a good job in pest elimination and disease control; in particular, frequently check the occurrence of aphids, wood-boring moths, and the like, and once found, control them immediately.

2. Continue with inter-row cultivation and weeding, keep removing lawn weeds, carry out lawn rolling and mowing, and prune topiary, hedges and the like into shape.

3. Continue to do a good job of pest and disease control. Pay particular attention to checking for pests and diseases that occur frequently, such as aphids, bagworms, slug moths, brown spot disease and sooty mold on flowering shrubs, and control them promptly.

October (Cold Dew, Frost's Descent)

1. Do a good job of pest and disease control, and eliminate all adult insects and eggs.

2. Continue inter-row cultivation and weeding.

3. After the nursery stock stops growing, check the survival rate and get a clear picture of the inventory to ensure that winter and spring greening work proceeds smoothly.

November (Start of Winter, Minor Snow)

1. Do a good job of cold protection: whitewash some trees, or wrap them with straw rope.

2. Carry out winter tree pruning, cutting out diseased branches and dead branches; branches with insect eggs as well as competing branches and over-

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