How to graft red-flowered magnolia? Grafting methods and key points of post-grafting management
How to propagate red-flowered magnolia by grafting? What are the key points of management after grafting red-flowered magnolia? The following brings you the grafting techniques and methods for red-flowered magnolia.
1 Grafting time
In early spring when the sap has not yet begun to flow, choose a sunny day with no wind or a slight breeze. In Baojing County, grafting is best done from early February to mid-February. After late February, the survival rate of grafting is extremely low.
2 Grafting method
Single-bud cut grafting.
3 Rootstock selection and treatment
3.1 Rootstock selection
Select 2-3 year old white magnolia (Magnolia denudata) as the rootstock, free of pests and diseases, with a straight trunk, bark that does not crack, and a ground diameter of 1.5-3.0 cm.
3.2 Rootstock treatment
(1) Cut the rootstock flat at a height of 6-8 cm above the ground; the cut must be smooth.
(2) Choose a smooth side of the rootstock, and with a grafting knife, make 1 slightly upward slanted cut at the edge of the cut, going slightly into the wood, with the cut reaching deep into the wood.
(3) At the cut, use the grafting knife to make 1 vertical downward cut slightly into the wood, with the length of the cut matching the long bevel of the scion, generally about 2.0-2.5 cm long.
4 Selection and treatment of scions
4.1 Selection of scions
Select 5-year-old grafted red-flowered magnolia trees that have already flowered as mother trees, and from the mother trees select 1-2 year old branches that are robust in growth, free of pests and diseases, and have plump buds, with a branch thickness of 0.5-1 cm; the position of the branches selected on the mother tree may be upper, middle or lower.
4.2 Treatment of scions
It is best to graft the scions immediately after collecting them; if they cannot be grafted the same day, the collected scions must be kept moist, and can be wrapped in a wet towel and placed indoors in a ventilated, cool place.
5 Grafting method
(1) Cut off the scion at 45° at a point 2.0-2.5 cm below the scion bud, and the cut must be smooth; cut flat at 0.5 cm above the scion bud and cut off the bud.
(2) On the side of the scion bud, on the back of the lower cut, at 0.5 cm below the bud, smoothly pare 1 long bevel, and the bevel must be smooth. When paring the bevel, the left hand mainly uses the thumb, index finger and middle finger to hold the scion firmly, while the right hand uses the grafting knife on the side of the bud, at 0.5 cm below the bud, to make 1 quick, smooth cut slightly into the wood; the cut surface must be smooth and made with 1 cut, with no unevenness.
(3) On the side of the scion bud, on the front of the lower cut, at 1.0-1.5 cm from the bud, use the grafting knife to quickly and smoothly pare a short bevel about 1.0-1.5 cm long; the bevel must be smooth, see the short bevel of the scion.
(4) Union of scion and rootstock. Quickly insert the pared scion into the prepared rootstock cut, and ensure that the cambium of the long bevel of the scion aligns with the cambium on at least one side of the rootstock cut.
(5) Wrapping. After the scion is inserted into the rootstock, quickly wrap the scion well with grafting film. The wrapping of both rootstock and scion must be tight, with no looseness. When wrapping, always keep at least one side of the long bevel of the scion aligned with one side of the rootstock cut, and wrap tightly, exposing only the bud and not the wound. The wrapping procedure (personal experience): face the scion directly, first check which side of the long bevel of the scion is aligned with which side of the rootstock cut; here, take the left side of the long bevel of the scion aligned with the left side of the rootstock as an example for explanation. The grafting film is a machine-made round self-adhesive grafting film, about 1.5 cm wide. Facing the scion directly, first open one end of the grafting film, not too long; hold this end with the right hand, hold the round part with the left hand, keep the grafting film close against the rootstock and scion, wrap it around from the back, and apply even force with both hands; after the right hand wraps around to the back of the scion, exchange with the left hand; the right hand holds the round part of the grafting film, the left hand protects one end of the grafting film, the scion and the rootstock to prevent the scion from moving; then the right hand quickly wraps the grafting film counterclockwise 2-3 turns to make the scion and rootstock fit tightly; the left hand uses the other end of the grafting film to cover down from the top of the scion to directly opposite the scion, wrap 2 turns in the same direction, fix this end of the grafting film, then wrap 2 more turns in the same direction; while wrapping, use the grafting film to cover the horizontal cut above the rootstock well, and finally fix the grafting film.
8 Post-grafting management
8.1 Bud removal
Remove buds once every 15 days. According to my own observation, grafting on February 11, on March 13 the buds of the grafted red-flowered magnolia began to swell, on March 30 the buds became larger and brighter, and on April 10 the red-flowered magnolia sprouted.
8.2 Weeding
Be especially careful when hoeing weeds to prevent the hoe from knocking off the buds. Near the rootstock it is best to pull weeds by hand. The number of weedings depends on the growth of the weeds.
8.3 Removing the film
When the growth of the scion begins to be restricted, remove the grafting film in time; generally the grafting film can be removed by the end of June. After removing the grafting film, set up supports in time to prevent the wind from breaking the scion.
8.4 Fertilization
When the scion has grown 15-20 cm long, appropriately apply additional nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer, applying once a month, and stop fertilizing by National Day.
8.5 Pest and disease control
After the scion buds begin to sprout, pay attention to observation to prevent red spider mites from damaging the new scion buds. If red spider mites are found, spray pesticide in time for control; the pesticide may first use 75% dichlorvos, 40% omethoate, etc. According to the author's experience, add 3 bottle caps (referring to the cap of the bottle containing the pesticide liquid) of pesticide liquid per bucket of water (referring to a standard sprayer water bucket), and 1 spray is enough.
In short, during the grafting process, one must achieve "tight, smooth, accurate, fast". "Tight" means the wrapping of both rootstock and scion must be tight so that callus tissue can form; "smooth" means the pared surface of the scion and the rootstock cut must be smooth, with no uneven places, so that the two can combine closely; "accurate" means that when inserting the scion, the cambium between the scion and the rootstock must be aligned; this point is the key to the entire grafting process, and if the cambium is not aligned, it will not survive; "fast" means the grafting knife must be sharp and the grafting action must be agile, shortening as much as possible the time the pared surface of the scion and the rootstock cut are exposed to the air.
The above are the grafting techniques and methods for red-flowered magnolia; fellow farmers can first save it, then study it.
Appreciation of red-flowered manglietia pictures and its planting methods
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Red-flowered manglietia is distributed in Hunan, Guizhou and other places; it prefers moist, fertile soil and has fine wood quality. It grows in mountain broad-leaved forests or evergreen and deciduous broad-leaved mixed forests at an altitude of 1700-2500 m. Today the editor will briefly introduce the planting methods of red-flowered manglietia.
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Before introducing the planting methods of red-flowered manglietia, let us first get to know it. Red-flowered manglietia is an evergreen tree, up to 30 m tall; branchlets are hairless or, when young and tender, are covered with rusty-colored or yellowish-brown soft hairs at the nodes. Leaves are leathery, oblanceolate, oblong or oblong-elliptic; flowers are fragrant; pedicels are stout; the ventral surface is stained red or purplish-red; the flowering period is May-June, and the fruiting period is August-September. It is produced in southwestern Hunan, Guangxi, and southwestern Sichuan, growing in forests at an altitude of 900-1 200 m. It is also distributed in Nepal, northeastern India, and northern Myanmar.
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The planting methods of red-flowered manglietia include sowing, cuttings, and grafting.
Sowing:Collect the fruit when ripe, first dry it in the shade and thresh it, rub off the red aril, wash it clean, dry it in the shade, store it in wet sand at low temperature, and sow in spring the following year. After sowing, the seed germination period is long and uneven, and seedlings should be shaded during high summer temperatures. In winter, seedlings have poor cold resistance and should be protected.
Cuttings:Carry out after flowering in spring or during the plum rain season, cutting 1-year-old tender shoots from young trees as cuttings. Before inserting, treat the base of the cuttings with 0.3% indolebutyric acid solution, which can increase the rooting rate and survival rate.
Grafting:Use white magnolia or purple magnolia as the rootstock, and carry out cut grafting before the buds break in spring; the survival rate is high.
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For the planting site of red-flowered manglietia, choose the middle-lower part of hillsides or valleys below an altitude of 800 m, with relatively deep, loose, moist and fertile soil. It is not suitable to plant on ridges, hilltops, or places with barren soil or strong winds. It can be used with camphor, sassafras, firepower nanmu, sweetgum, masson pine, etc. to create multi-species mixed forests; container seedlings are planted on cloudy days after rain in May-June. After afforestation, young forests are tended for 3 years, and after the forest canopy closes, thinning is carried out in stages. Deep plowing in the cultivation of red-flowered manglietia is an important cultivation measure; it can promote the development of the plant root system and enhance the disease resistance of the plant.
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Rational fertilization of red-flowered manglietia can promote the growth and development of medicinal plants and enhance their resistance and their ability to recover after being damaged by pests and diseases.
For example:Applying sufficient organic fertilizer to Atractylodes macrocephala and appropriately increasing phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can reduce mosaic disease. However, the barnyard manure or compost used must be fully rotted; otherwise, the residual pathogenic bacteria in the fertilizer and the eggs of underground pests such as white grubs are not killed, which can easily worsen underground pests and certain diseases.
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Weeding, pruning and clearing the garden: field weeds and the residues harmed by pests and diseases after harvesting medicinal plants, as well as the dead branches and fallen leaves dropped in the field, are often places where pests and diseases hide and overwinter, and are the source of pests and diseases the following year. Therefore, weeding, cleaning the garden, and, in combination with pruning, burning or deeply burying pest and disease residues and dead branches and fallen leaves can greatly reduce the degree of pest and disease damage the following year.
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Although the distribution area of red-flowered manglietia is broad, its distribution is scattered and its numbers are relatively few; combined with continuous logging and use, it is in danger of extinction. It is listed as a national third-class protected plant and is also a rare and endangered species in the country. Today the editor's introduction to the planting methods of red-flowered manglietia ends here; thank you all for reading.
Which plants are suitable for grafting in June
Plants suitable for approach grafting in June
In June, approach grafting propagation of plants can be carried out. There are many plants suitable for this grafting method, among which the more typical one includes wintersweet. When approach grafting wintersweet, seedlings of seedling-grown wintersweet can be used as the rootstock to approach graft superior cultivars of wintersweet. White orchid and Michelia figo can also be approach grafted, etc.; potted seedlings such as purple magnolia and white magnolia can be used as rootstocks to approach graft white orchid and Michelia figo.
Plants suitable for bud grafting in June
In June, wintersweet; there are actually quite a few plants suitable for bud grafting.
Use wild rose seedlings as the rootstock to graft Chinese roses.
Use 1-year-old seedling trees such as apricot, peach and plum as rootstocks to graft flowers such as longevity peach, ornamental peach, plum blossom and elm-leaved spirea.
Use 1-year-old or 2-year-old green maple saplings as rootstocks to graft red maple, feather maple and red maple.
Plants suitable for stem grafting in June
In June, the stem grafting method can be used, with seedling plants of oil tea, red-flowered oil tea or single-petaled camellia as rootstocks, to graft camellia and tea camellia, etc.