How to propagate Schefflera (umbrella tree) by cuttings in small arched-frame pot culture in northern China?
Schefflera is a very popular ornamental plant, especially the potted series, and many friends love to buy a pot to keep at home. Today we will talk about the cutting propagation technique for potted Schefflera in small arched frames in winter in northern China.
1 Preparation work
1.1 Selection of propagation substrate
The cutting substrate plays an extremely important role in the success or failure of cutting propagation. The substrate fixes and supports the cuttings, and at the same time provides a suitable root growth environment for the cuttings. During cutting propagation, cuttings generally need a long time to root, and once the water, fertilizer, air, heat and other characteristics of the cutting substrate become unbalanced, it is very easy to cause the cuttings to wither or rot. This requires that the propagation substrate should have the characteristics of water retention, air permeability, uniform texture, and containing certain nutrient elements.
Vermiculite is a natural, non-toxic mineral, a mineral that expands under high temperature. It has the characteristics of good air permeability, strong water absorption, and small temperature change; at the same time, vermiculite contains K, Mg, Ca, Fe and trace amounts of Mn, Cu, Zn and other elements. These elements, as beneficial elements for plant growth, all directly participate in plant metabolism and are indispensable influencing factors for the normal growth and development of plants.
Perlite after high-temperature expansion has characteristics similar to vermiculite, but compared with vermiculite, perlite particles are generally larger and too permeable, which is not conducive to fixing and supporting the cuttings.
River sand also has characteristics similar to vermiculite, but the nutrient elements provided by river sand are generally less than those of perlite and vermiculite; moreover, river sand is generally collected directly from nature, with particles of varying sizes, and generally contains impurities as well as pathogenic microorganisms, and especially requires disinfection and sterilization treatment; furthermore, river sand has a smaller specific heat capacity than vermiculite, which is not conducive to heat preservation. Therefore, we choose vermiculite as the cutting propagation substrate.
1.2 Seedbed laying
First lay the seedbed. Here, a foam trough produced by Zhongnong Futong Co., Ltd. (or bricks and stones) is used to build a seedbed 90cm wide and 20cm high. A layer of non-woven fabric is laid at the bottom of the seedbed. Above the non-woven fabric, 3-5cm thick vermiculite is filled, heating wires are laid on the vermiculite, and then about 10cm thick vermiculite is covered on top of the heating wires.
A small arched frame is built above the seedbed, plastic film is covered over the arched frame, and a shade net is set up outside the arched frame. The light transmittance of the shade net should preferably be about 50%.
1.3 Laying of heating wires
In winter in northern China, the ground temperature is relatively low, especially in Northeast China, where the ground temperature is generally below 0°C. Even inside facilities, at night it will be below 10°C. To solve this problem, heating wires are chosen to be laid to assist in increasing heat.
1.3.1 Laying requirements
The spacing between adjacent heating wires should preferably be 10-12cm. Since the heat loss rate on both sides of the seedbed is greater than in the middle, it is required that when laying the heating wires, the middle should be sparse and the two sides dense, so as to facilitate uniform heat distribution. The heating wire consists of 2 parts, one part is the heat-generating wire, and the other part is ordinary wire. When laying, attention should be paid to burying the heat-generating wire entirely in the substrate, because exposing the heat-generating wire to the air will accelerate the aging of the heating wire and reduce the service life of the heating wire. After the heating wire is connected, connect the temperature controller, and insert the temperature sensor into the substrate in the middle of the seedbed.
1.3.2 Precautions
Before laying, planning should be done well, and the row spacing should be determined in advance, as well as the length and width of the seedbed, so as to determine the required length of heating wire. At corners, heating wires are strictly prohibited from contacting each other, as this easily causes short circuits. The temperature controller must not directly contact the ground, to prevent electric shock.
1.4 Disinfection and sterilization treatment
Cutting propagation requires maintaining a high-humidity propagation environment, and at the same time the seedbed is required to both retain water and drain promptly. A suitable environment is conducive to the rooting of cuttings, and at the same time also provides favorable conditions for the occurrence of pests and diseases. Therefore, strict pre-cutting disinfection and sterilization treatment must be carried out on the cutting substrate, seedbed, operating tools, etc. The specific measures are as follows: ① The substrate is laid in the foam trough, and the substrate is isolated from the soil to reduce the occurrence of soil-borne pests and diseases. ② Spray the substrate with a 1000-fold dilution of a broad-spectrum fungicide, immediately cover with film, and seal for 1 week. ③ The arched frame, non-woven fabric, and shade net should also be sprayed with a 1000-fold dilution of fungicide. ④ The surrounding site for cutting should also be sprayed with a 600-800-fold dilution of potassium permanganate solution for 1 thorough disinfection treatment.
1.5 Selection of cuttings
The cutting length is 10-15cm, and young tender branches with terminal buds and a diameter of 0.5-1cm are selected. Remove the lower leaves and retain 5-10 leaves on the upper part. The base cut of the cutting is generally made below the node, close to the node, and the cut shape is mostly horse-ear shaped, or directly cut into a 45° oblique cut surface.
2 Actual operation
(1) Water the vermiculite substrate thoroughly with clean water, turn on the temperature controller, control the temperature at 23°C, and wait until the soil temperature reaches 23°C.
(2) Cut the cuttings and quickly place them into a 50mg/kg ABT No. 1 rooting powder solution (a 1000-fold dilution of broad-spectrum fungicides such as carbendazim and chlorothalonil may be added to the solution), to a depth of 2-4cm, and soak for 30 minutes.
(3) Use a wooden stick to make holes in the substrate, place the cuttings directly into the holes, compact the surrounding vermiculite so that the cuttings remain upright, and keep the plant and row spacing at 10cm.
(4) Spray water on the leaves. When cutting is finished, immediately spray water on the leaves and close the plastic film on the arched frame.
3 Later maintenance
3.1 Temperature and humidity control
Proper temperature and humidity control can significantly promote early rooting of cuttings, and temperature and humidity control is the key to successful cutting. The soil temperature is controlled at 23°C through the temperature controller, and the humidity is controlled at about 80%. Keep the substrate moist. On sunny days, spray water on the leaves 2 times a day; on rainy days, do not spray water, to prevent excessive transpiration from affecting the survival rate. Each time water is sprayed, open half of the plastic film and ventilate for 30 minutes. When ventilating, note that when lifting the plastic film, the force should be gentle and it should be opened gently, so as to minimize water droplets condensed on the film surface falling onto the cuttings.
3.2 Pest and disease control
3 days after cutting, spray broad-spectrum antibacterial agents such as thiophanate-methyl, spraying once every 7 days, to inhibit the reproduction of pathogens in the substrate. Pay attention to observing whether pests occur in the substrate. To prevent pesticide damage, use insecticides as little as possible.
3.3 Water and fertilizer management
10 days after cutting, spray a 0.1% concentration of 20:20:20 compound fertilizer (or foliar fertilizers such as monopotassium phosphate), which is beneficial to rooting, and thereafter spray once every 7 days.
3.4 Hardening of seedlings
Generally about 20 days after cutting, roots begin to appear. When the root length reaches about 2cm, the shade net is gradually changed from full shading to half shading until finally the shade net is removed; 3 days later, lower the soil temperature to 20°C, and change from ventilating for half an hour each time to all-day ventilation; 5 days later, remove the plastic film. Reduce the frequency of watering, and water according to the principle of dry-wet alternation.
3.5 Transplanting and repotting
When the root length reaches about 5cm, carry out transplanting and repotting. For the transplanting substrate, choose a propagation substrate with a volume ratio of peat : vermiculite : perlite of 2:1:1. After transplanting, water once thoroughly, place in a semi-shaded environment, and maintain the temperature at 20-25°C. Keep the propagation substrate moist and provide appropriate shading.
The above are the key points of cutting propagation technology for potted Schefflera. Farmer friends in need are welcome to refer to it often.
Propagation technique for red-leaf smoke tree
Smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria Scop.), also known as red leaf, red-leaf smoke tree, Huangdao lu, Huangliuzi, Huanglongtou, Huanglu wood, Huanglu firewood, Huangluhui, etc., is an important ornamental red-leaf tree species in China. Its leaves turn red in autumn, bright and eye-catching. The famous red leaves of Fragrant Hills in Beijing are this tree species. In gardens, it is suitable for group planting on lawns, mounds or hillsides, and can also be mixed-planted in other tree groups, especially evergreen tree groups. After flowering, the pedicels of the sterile flowers of the smoke tree remain for a long time without falling, forming a pink feathery cloud-like and mist-like landscape at the branch tips; the smoke tree is also a good afforestation tree species. The red-leaf smoke tree is a deciduous shrub or small tree. Its leaves are bright red in autumn, and after Frost's Descent the leaf color becomes even more vivid. It is an excellent tree species for mountain greening and ornamental use. Its seed propagation technique is now introduced.1. Seed collection
Select mature red-leaf smoke trees for seed collection. Harvest when the seeds mature in early to mid-June. After removing impurities, fine selection, and drying, store in a dry, cool place for later use, and prevent rat damage and insect damage.
2. Seed treatment
Red-leaf smoke tree seeds must undergo stratification treatment before sowing. Around New Year's Day, rinse the seeds with clean water, mix evenly with three times as much clean wet sand and dig a pit 20-40cm deep in a shady place, with length and width not exceeding 60cm×80cm, put the seeds in, cover with about 10cm of sandy soil, and bury a straw bundle in the middle as a ventilation hole. Check and turn once every half month, and after February of the next year check and turn once a week, to prevent seed rot and observe germination conditions. At the same time, pay attention to preventing water accumulation at the bottom of the pit or the seeds becoming too dry. In mid-to-late March, when about 1/3 of the seeds show white, they can be sown.
3. Land preparation and sowing
The nursery should preferably choose a plot of sandy loam soil, with irrigation conditions, smooth drainage, and fertile soil layers. Apply more than 2000 kg of organic fertilizer per 667m2, plow deeply and harrow finely, make beds 120-150cm wide, and carry out soil disinfection. Direct sowing in furrows or sowing in the mother bed followed by transplanting can be used. The sowing rate per 667m2 is 2-3kg, and after sowing the seeds are covered with 1-2cm of soil. To preserve soil moisture and prevent freeze damage, plastic film or a small arched frame can be covered. When the seedlings grow to 3-5 leaves, they can be transplanted. The transplanting row spacing is 20-30cm, and the plant spacing is 10-15cm.
4. Seedling management
Management during the seedling stage
First, watering. Water sufficiently in the early stage and appropriately control water in the later stage, so as to facilitate seedling hardening. After watering, loosen the soil and hoe weeds in time.
Second, topdressing. Generally topdress 2-3 times, mainly with nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compound fertilizer, applying 10-15 kg per 667m2, to promote vigorous seedling growth.
Third, pest and disease control, especially the control of damping-off and powdery mildew. To control damping-off, spray a 0.2% solution of 25% carbendazim wettable powder or irrigate 3-4 times with 0.5% ferrous sulfate solution. To control powdery mildew, spray a 0.1% solution of 15% triadimefon, and to control leafhoppers and aphids, spray a 0.1% solution of 25% metolcarb. To control underground pests, irrigate around the seedling roots with a 0.1% solution of 50% phoxim emulsifiable concentrate.
Autumn rose cutting technique
Roses can be cut throughout the year, but the autumn cutting method is simple, easy to manage after winter arrives, and after being divided and potted the following year they can bloom that same year. September to October, with a temperature of 20°C to 25°C, is the best time to cut roses, and the survival rate is as high as over 95%.
Seedbed preparation
For cutting propagation, it is advisable to choose neutral sandy loam soil with relatively good water and fertilizer conditions. If the soil is sticky and heavy, an appropriate amount of fine sand can be mixed in during land preparation. If the soil has a relatively high sand content and low fertility, an appropriate amount of organic fertilizer can be applied during land preparation. Combined with land preparation, apply 0.5 kg of methyl isofenphos per mu to prevent underground pests from damaging the seedlings. When propagating at home, a shallow clay pot or shallow wooden box can be used, choosing soil that is loose, has good drainage and aeration, and does not carry root-knot nematode pathogens, such as 7 parts loose garden soil plus 3 parts rice husk ash or perlite. Before use, it is best to spread the above substrate on a concrete surface and expose it to the sun, carrying out sunlight or liquid disinfection to kill pathogens in the soil, and then fill it into pots or boxes for cutting.
Selection and pruning of cuttings
In the cutting orchard, select robust plants with no pests or diseases and excellent quality as mother plants, and from the mother plants select branches that are thick and strong, have short internodes, good lignification, and fully developed leaves after flowering has ended or before flowering as cuttings. The cuttings should retain 4 internodes, and the shoot length should preferably be about 10cm. The top leaf should be 1cm from the upper cut. The upper cut should be cut flat, and the lower end should be cut off from below the 3rd compound leaf, and a horse-ear shape should be cut on the lower part opposite the compound leaf. The 1st and 2nd compound leaves must be robust and complete in development, and each compound leaf should retain 2 small leaflets, with the rest cut off together with the petiole. The lower cut of the cutting should be cut into a horse-ear shape at the stem base behind the bud eye of the 3rd compound leaf, so as to make full use of the favorable factor of abundant nutrient storage in the internodes, making it easier for the cutting to heal, root and survive.
Pre-cutting rooting treatment
Soaking method: use a 30ppm to 50ppm solution of No. 2 ABT rooting powder. Tie 50 to 100 cuttings into 1 bundle, soak the lower 2cm in the solution for 2 hours to 4 hours, take them out, and insert them into the seedbed to a depth of 3cm to 5cm.
Quick-dip method: prepare a 500ppm solution with 50% alcohol and naphthaleneacetic acid or indolebutyric acid. Soak the lower 2cm of the cuttings in the solution for 2 seconds to 5 seconds. After the liquid dries slightly, immediately insert them into the seedbed. To prevent the cuttings from rotting due to pathogen invasion during the rooting period, 2.5% kejunkang can also be added at the same time when preparing the rooting agent.
Cutting method
Rose cutting mostly uses the direct insertion method. The cutting depth is 1/3 to 1/2 of the cutting length, generally reaching the second bud eye. When cutting, first make a hole with a bamboo stick of the same thickness as the cutting, then insert the rose cutting and compact it. The cutting density should preferably be such that the leaves do not touch each other. When cutting, long cuttings and short cuttings should be cut separately, to prevent uneven length and irregularity, and mutual influence on light and growth. At the same time, varieties should not be mixed. Cut in sections according to variety and arrange them neatly and orderly for easy management. After cutting, immediately spray water with a fine-hole watering can. Do not spray too forcefully, so as to avoid mud polluting the cutting leaves and washing out the cuttings. Cover with plastic film to maintain the temperature and humidity inside the bed.
Post-cutting management
After cutting, water thoroughly, then use a plastic film small arched frame to shade and preserve moisture. In the first 10 days, spray water frequently to maintain a relatively moist environment; after 10 days, control spraying, spray only when dry, and maintain a dried state. In an environment of 20°C to 25°C, the cuttings can root in 20 days to 35 days, with a rooting rate of 95%. After new roots form, water and topdress in a timely manner to promote balanced growth of the aboveground and underground parts of the seedlings. Management is divided into three stages, each stage 7 days to 10 days. The first stage is the shady and moist stage. At this time, direct sunlight should be avoided. On sunny days, cover with curtains in time. When the leaves are dry, use a small sprayer to spray the leaf surface, preventing the leaves from drying and falling off. The second stage is the healing stage. At this time, the wound begins to heal, and excessive water should be prevented, otherwise it will cause the wound tissue to mildew and rot. Gradually allow the pot soil to dry, and in the morning and evening increase the time of weak sunlight exposure to promote photosynthesis. The third stage is the rooting stage. The time of sunlight exposure can be gradually increased, and when the pot soil is dry, water appropriately. If the old leaves do not fall off and new buds have grown, it indicates that roots have formed and the cutting has survived.
Responsible editor: hjj