Detailed Explanation of Bougainvillea Cultivation and Breeding Techniques and Daily Care Tips
When it comes to growing bougainvillea, many people may know that it likes warmth and plenty of light, is not cold-tolerant, and dislikes waterlogging. It is best grown in fertile, loose, well-drained sandy soil. In heavy, alkaline, easily waterlogged soil and under low-temperature conditions, it not only grows poorly but also easily suffers root rot and dies. Below, the editor will explain in detail the cultivation and breeding techniques and care tips for bougainvillea.
1. Propagation
The most commonly used propagation method for bougainvillea cultivation is cuttings, and currently, nutrient-rich branches are mainly used as cuttings. The highest survival rate for bougainvillea cuttings is generally in the dry season from February to May. Before cutting, either 2-year-old or multi-year-old branches can be selected. The length of 2-year-old branches is about 10-15 cm, while the length of multi-year-old old branches is 0.5-0.8 m. After soaking the base of the cuttings in rooting powder solution for 1-2 h, they can be planted.
When propagating bougainvillea, an open-field seedbed can be made, and a dry, slightly elevated, wind-sheltered, sunny location should be chosen as the seedbed site. Loose, fertile soil should be selected, so that it has a certain water-holding capacity while also facilitating drainage. After turning and raking fine, remove weeds, and finally arrange the bed. The size of the seedbed can be determined by the number of cuttings. Generally, the length is about 40-60 m, the width is 80-100 cm, the height is 35-40 cm, and the width of the ditch is 40-45 cm. After the seedbed is made, fill it with river sand 30-35 cm thick. To prevent pests and diseases, chemicals can be used for disinfection. The disinfectant is generally a 2000-fold aqueous solution of formalin or a 3000-fold aqueous solution of potassium permanganate. After spraying, seal it with plastic film for 24 h, then air it in the sun for a few days before cutting. After cutting, water thoroughly, provide shade above, and insist on misting every day. After about 30 d of careful management, adventitious roots can grow from the lower part of the cuttings, and then new buds begin to sprout. After that, gradually increase sunlight exposure, gradually reduce the frequency of misting, and pay attention to weed removal and pest and disease control. After the new buds produce leaves, spray a 0.2% aqueous solution of potassium dihydrogen phosphate. Once the plants grow strong, they can be directly potted or transplanted once.
2. Care Tips
2.2.1 Watering
During the growing period, red-flowered bougainvillea needs a large amount of water. It should be watered wet and thoroughly so that the soil remains moist, and attention should be paid to good drainage to avoid water accumulation and waterlogging, because water accumulation can cause leaf drop and root rot, directly affecting the normal growth and flowering of bougainvillea. When it enters the flowering period, water promptly to keep the soil moist. However, it should not be too much, because too much will make the branches and leaves grow luxuriantly but produce few or no flowers. After the flowering period ends, reduce the frequency of watering. Since purple-flowered bougainvillea has a lower water requirement, it can be managed extensively, but it should still be kept to the principle of not watering when not dry, and watering thoroughly when watering. Otherwise, it will lead to excessive nutrition, which is unfavorable for reproductive and vegetative growth and directly affects flowering quality.
2.2.2 Promoting Flowering
The full bloom period of bougainvillea is normally from November to April of the following year. If managed properly, it can flower all year round. During this period, in order to make bougainvillea bloom profusely, water control is needed to promote flowering and bring it into full bloom earlier, especially when bougainvillea is in a prominent location. Before bougainvillea blooms, water should be controlled intermittently so that flowers cover the branches. Around late July, select strong, mature plants and carry out intermittent water control according to sunny or cloudy weather and air dryness to promote full blooming.
The specific method is: do not water the flowers for 10-12 d continuously. Through observation, when the soil becomes dry and pale and the branches lose water and appear slightly drooping, water a little, then continue water control again, repeating this 2-3 times. In this way, apical growth will stop, allowing nutrients to concentrate and promote flower bud differentiation. Once a red flush appears at the tips of the branches, water thoroughly and apply calcium phosphate once every two weeks. In this way, bougainvillea can reach full bloom in 40-50 d. Of course, hormone regulation can also be carried out through spraying to control the transition from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, which will advance flower bud differentiation and flowering. In addition, if bougainvillea receives too much water and fertilizer, it will only grow leaves and not bloom. At this time, flowering can be promoted by scoring.
2.2.3 Pruning
Red-flowered bougainvillea grows relatively slowly, so there are basically no leggy branches, and there is no need to prune it frequently. Prune once around March to April each year, cutting off weak branches and dense branches. Purple-flowered bougainvillea, however, needs comprehensive pruning twice a year: the first time before sprouting in March to April, and the second time before the growth of new branches after flowering in November to December. When pruning, cut off dense branches, short branches, weak branches, and terminal shoots, and shorten horizontal branches so that more flowering mother branches sprout from the base, thereby ensuring vigorous blooming every year. Generally, only 2-3 nodes of buds are retained, and the excess is cut off. Since purple-flowered bougainvillea grows vigorously, in addition to comprehensive pruning twice a year, leggy branches should also be pruned every month. When pruning, master the three principles of one shortening and three thinning: namely, shorten horizontal branches; heavily prune new branches; and thin out weak branches and dense branches. However, its height should be controlled. If continuous pruning makes it dwarfed, the flowering period will be greatly delayed, the number of flowers will be reduced, and the growth period will become longer, resulting in failure to achieve the ideal landscape effect, causing bougainvillea to lose its own advantages and fail to display its proper brilliance.
3. Pest and Disease Control
The pests and diseases of red-flowered and purple-flowered bougainvillea are very similar. They are rarely troubled by pests and diseases, and even if they occasionally appear, treatment with chemicals can be effective. Particular attention should be paid to observing the period from winter to spring. The common pests are slug moths and scale insects, and a 5000-fold solution of 2.5% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate is used for spraying.
4. Loosening the Soil
Both red-flowered and purple-flowered bougainvillea should have the soil loosened in a timely manner to prevent the soil from becoming compacted and hardened, which would lead to poor root development and thereby affect plant growth. The timing of soil loosening can be determined in combination with routine management.
Bougainvillea Bonsai Cultivation Techniques, Bougainvillea Bonsai Care Methods
Bougainvillea Habits: Bougainvillea likes a warm and humid climate and is not cold-tolerant. It can safely overwinter only above 3°C, and can bloom only above 15°C. It likes sufficient light. It has no strict requirements for soil, growing well in well-drained, mineral-rich heavy loam, tolerant of barrenness, alkali, and drought, disliking water accumulation, and tolerant of pruning. Bougainvillea is native to Brazil in South America and was not introduced to Europe for cultivation until around the 1830s. It is now cultivated in various parts of China. It likes a warm, humid, and sunny environment and is not cold-tolerant. In China, except in the southern regions where it can be cultivated outdoors and overwinter, other regions require pot cultivation and greenhouse cultivation. The most suitable soil is well-drained sandy loam. Bougainvillea is commonly propagated by cuttings, and raising seedlings is easy. In May and June, cut mature woody branches 20 cm long, insert them into a sand pot, cover with glass, keep moist, and roots can form in about one month. After two years of cultivation, it can bloom.
Bougainvillea Bonsai Cultivation Methods
1. Pot Selection: Bougainvillea has no strict requirements for soil, is tolerant of barrenness and drought, and dislikes water accumulation. A sandy soil rich in humus, loose, fertile, and with strong permeability is best, and clay should be avoided. For pot cultivation, one part each of leaf mold, peat soil, sand soil, and garden soil can be used, with a small amount of decomposed cake residue added as base fertilizer, mixed to prepare the growing medium.
2. Temperature: The suitable growth temperature is 15—30°C, of which May—September is 19—30°C, and October to the following April is 13—16°C. In summer, it can withstand high temperatures of 35°C. When the temperature exceeds 35°C, appropriate shading or measures such as misting and ventilation should be taken. In winter, an ambient temperature of no less than 5°C should be maintained. Flowering requires a temperature above 15°C. To extend the flowering period, it should be moved indoors in time before the first cold wave arrives in early winter.
3. Light: Bougainvillea likes light. Insufficient light during the growing season will lead to weak plant growth and affect bud formation and flowering. Therefore, throughout the year, except that newly potted seedlings should first be placed in semi-shade. In winter, it should be placed in front of a south-facing window, and the light duration must not be less than 8 hours, otherwise a large number of leaves will easily fall. It is a short-day flower. If the daily light duration is controlled at about 9 hours, bougainvillea will form buds and bloom after one and a half months.
3. Soil: Bougainvillea grows relatively fast, has a well-developed root system and many fibrous roots, and needs repotting once a year. Due to long-term watering, fertilizing, and rainwater washing, the potting soil of bougainvillea easily becomes compacted, so the soil needs to be loosened regularly, and weeds in the pot should be removed at the same time. Otherwise, compacted potting soil and water accumulation can easily cause root rot or poor growth of bougainvillea.
4. Select varieties that are free-flowering, variegated, and easy to regulate in plant shape, such as double-petaled large red, Yijin, and orange-yellow; variegated red and silver-edged white; single-petaled green-leaf water red, orange red, cherry red, etc.; in Hangzhou, they generally can bloom 2-3 batches of flowers a year.
5. Cutting propagation and selection of seedlings: Miniature bonsai bougainvillea is fast and convenient to propagate by cuttings. In Hangzhou, in May-June, select short-noded, 0.3-1 cm diameter one-year-old woody or semi-woody branches. The cuttings are 6-8 cm long with 3-4 nodes. Keep the front two leaves (or half leaves) and insert them into a sterilized substrate. Maintain moisture and light during care. Apply fertilizer outside the roots after about 20 days. After rooting, gradually expose them to strong light for hardening. At 45-60 days after cutting, move them early with a small amount of substrate into miniature pots. After 2-3 days of recovery, they enter routine management. Miniature bougainvillea seedlings can also be obtained directly by finding small multi-year-old dwarf twisted trunks, trimming the roots and pruning the branches, and potting them; they can also be obtained by bagged air layering propagation on twisting, varied old branches.
6. Goals and measures of early-stage care. Early-stage care is the foundation. The goal is shaping and cultivating the crown. All measures revolve around short nodes, short branches, compact plant shape, and concise, smooth styling. Branches may be curved or bent, but there is no deliberate pursuit of extreme twisting. Generally, 1-2 bends on the main trunk and 2-3 branches are enough. The branches and leaves should be somewhat more than those of other woody miniature bonsai types, but should not be too dense, so as to facilitate overall balance of metabolism. The plant form and composition should be designed according to the original characteristics of the pot and the material, with the trend of branches and leaves and the layout given appropriate emphasis, making the branches and leaves orderly in density and well arranged. The crown is about 1.5 times the pot diameter.
a. Watering and fertilizing: The miniature pot has a small volume and little soil, so heavy watering and concentrated fertilizer should be avoided. The soil should preferably be on the dry side, and not watered until dry. On sunny days in spring and late autumn, water in the morning and forenoon; in summer and early autumn, water at both ends of the day, in the evening water a small amount to moisten the soil so the leaves can recover from wilting, and in the morning water thoroughly. For fertilizing, adopt the practice of occasionally mixing a little dilute fertilizer water into the water used for irrigation. For the first few times, nitrogen should be dominant with phosphorus and potassium secondary; afterward, phosphorus and potassium should be dominant. To prevent excessive rain from causing leggy growth, if conditions permit, it can be placed under a sunny rain shelter for care.
b. Pinching, topping, wiring, and pruning: Determine the timing of topping and pinching according to shaping needs. Generally, pinching and topping can be done at 4-5 leaves to lower plant height and lower the branching position. After the first branch formation, pinch again to form secondary branches.
Wiring should be done early, as soon as the plant has recovered growth after planting. Use aluminum wire 0.6-0.8 mm in diameter, insert one end into the soil, and wind the other end spirally around the branch at about a 45-degree angle, from the main trunk to the young branches, from bottom to top. When winding, the aluminum wire should be close to the branch and trunk, with moderate spacing. After winding, bend the branch into the desired shape. Finally, use the aluminum wire to press the leaf axil of the terminal young leaf to promote internode elongation of the young branch and form natural bends. Wiring should be carried out promptly as the branches grow. A plastic wrapping tape can also be used to bind thicker aluminum wire with young branches and then bend them for shaping. When growth is vigorous and branches are too long, appropriate pruning should also be carried out in time, shortening and cutting back to promote branching again, while cutting off overlapping branches and other excess branches.
c. Spraying growth retardant: When new branches appear, begin spraying 0.5% daminozide once every 7-10 days. If spraying 20-50 PPM paclobutrazol, attention should be paid to controlling the dosage and extending the interval.
d. Bougainvillea is a strongly sun-loving plant, heat-tolerant and not afraid of sun exposure, and should be kept under direct light for care, generally without shading. Cascading and semi-cascading forms can be placed at an angle or inverted.
e. When the branches and crown have initially formed, some flowering-promoting measures must be taken: such as widening the spacing between pots, placing them high for ventilation, increasing phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, controlling the amount of watering, and continuing wiring to regulate plant shape, etc.
7. Flowering period management: About two months after planting, flower buds may appear. At this time, pause wiring. For each branch, retain 3-4 inflorescences for double-petaled varieties, and retain 6-7 inflorescences for single-petaled varieties, then pinch. Concentrate nutrients so that double-petaled flowers bloom into balls and single-petaled flowers are large and brightly colored. During the flowering period, appropriately increase the amount of evening watering, continue watering with dilute fertilizer water mainly containing phosphorus and potassium, and to prevent severe wilting, a small amount of water can be added at noon, with the water temperature close to the soil temperature.
8. Post-flowering management: If managed properly, miniature bougainvillea bonsai can bloom three batches a year; new plants cultivated from May cuttings may also bloom twice in the same year. After flowering, cut back and shorten promptly to maintain plant shape and prevent branches from becoming too long; apply additional dilute fertilizer water mainly of nitrogen with phosphorus and potassium secondary; wire new branches early and spray growth retardant, etc.
9. Overwintering: Miniature pots are greatly affected by changes in external temperature and are prone to cold damage in winter. They should be placed on a sunny windowsill indoors or in a warm cabinet, striving to keep the temperature no lower than 8°C. If cold causes leaf drop, keep the potting soil on the dry side and let it remain dormant. When too dry, pour a small amount of lukewarm water along the edge of the pot. If the temperature is high and sunlight is good and leaves do not drop, and it can still bloom normally, then normal maintenance and management are required.
10. Later-stage care: After 1-2 years of miniature bonsai cultivation, repot, change the soil, trim the roots, and prune the branches; or partially change the soil, raise the roots, and take measures to make the main trunk appear old and gnarled. After one year of care, the prototype begins to appear. Transitioning from an ordinary miniature bonsai to an artistic bonsai or miniature landscape still requires many years of shaping with pruning as the main method and wiring as the auxiliary method.
Precautions for Bougainvillea Bonsai Cultivation
1. When pruning bougainvillea, master the principle of "short, heavy, thin," namely shorten horizontal branches and heavily prune new branches. Thin out dense branches and weak branches. Red-flowered bougainvillea grows relatively weakly and is pruned about once a year in March—April. Bougainvillea needs comprehensive pruning twice a year: the first time before sprouting in March—April, and the second time before the growth of new branches after flowers fade in November-December, to ensure vigorous blooming every year.
2. The common pests of bougainvillea are mainly leaf beetles and aphids, and the common diseases are mainly tip blight. Usually strengthen soil loosening and weed removal, remove dead branches and diseased leaves in time, and pay attention to ventilation to reduce the spread of disease sources. Strengthen disease inspection and deal with problems promptly when found. Solutions such as dimethoate and thiophanate can be used for control. In ordinary care and management work, take care of its growth with more attentiveness.
Miniature Bougainvillea Cultivation
"Miniature Bougainvillea Cultivation"
Miniature potted plants are small in size, with exaggerated shapes and concise lines. Decorating balconies, rooms, and windowsills with them is more poetic and picturesque, with a distinctive charm. Using bougainvillea as material for miniature potted plants, it takes only five or six months from cutting propagation to the initial appearance of the prototype and flowering. Bougainvillea is robust by nature, tolerant of high temperatures and strong sun, and when grown as a miniature potted plant requires no special treatment in summer. It has few pests and diseases, and care is rough and easy. Bougainvillea has brilliant flower colors, and varieties have variable leaf colors. The branches are easy to bend for shaping. When making miniature potted plants, you can enjoy flowers when there are flowers, appreciate leaves when there are no flowers, and view the framework when there are no leaves, giving it extremely strong ornamental value. Now I will share some experience with miniature bougainvillea potted cultivation with flower friends.
1. Pot selection: Choose miniature pots below 10 cm, especially small and exquisite ones of 6-8 cm. Purple clay pots and ceramic pots are both acceptable, and small plastic pots or uniquely styled plastic packaging boxes for ice cream, yogurt, or chocolate are also fine. The appearance and color of the pot should echo the tree posture, leaf color, and flower color of the bougainvillea. For example, tall cylindrical signed pots are suitable for cascading and semi-cascading styles; long-waisted oval or rectangular pots are suitable for straight trunks and slanted trunks; round pots match plants with coiled, low shapes; polygonal pots are for tall trunks producing fine tendrils hanging low and sparse branches. Light, elegant, pale-colored pots should be used for varieties with brilliant flower colors, while dark, dignified pots should be used for varieties with light-colored flowers.
2. Soil: The miniature pot has a small volume, and bougainvillea has strong growth potential, a large flower volume, and high water and fertilizer demands, while also fearing waterlogging. Therefore, it must be fertile, loose, well-drained, good at retaining fertilizer and water, and rich in humus sandy loam. For example, use leaf mold + sandy loam, or prepare with peat + perlite + garden soil. It is required that after heavy rain the pot surface does not accumulate water, and under sun exposure it does not compact or harden, with the surface soil turned white by the sun while still moist below.
3. Select varieties that are free-flowering, variegated, and easy to regulate in plant shape, such as double-petaled large red, Yijin, and orange-yellow; variegated red and silver-edged white; single-petaled green-leaf water red, orange red, cherry red, etc.; in Hangzhou, they generally can bloom 2-3 batches of flowers a year.
4. Cutting propagation and selection of seedlings: Miniature potted bougainvillea is fast and convenient to propagate by cuttings. In Hangzhou, in May-June, select short-noded, 0.3-1 cm diameter one-year-old woody or semi-woody branches. The cuttings are 6-8 cm long with 3-4 nodes. Keep the front two leaves (or half leaves) and insert them into a sterilized substrate. Maintain moisture and light during care. Apply fertilizer outside the roots after about 20 days. After rooting, gradually expose them to strong light for hardening. At 45-60 days after cutting, move them early with a small amount of substrate into miniature pots. After 2-3 days of recovery, they enter routine management. Miniature bougainvillea seedlings can also be obtained directly by finding small multi-year-old dwarf twisted trunks, trimming the roots and pruning the branches, and potting them; they can also be obtained by bagged air layering propagation on twisting, varied old branches.
5. Goals and measures of early-stage care. Early-stage care is the foundation. The goal is shaping and cultivating the crown. All measures revolve around short nodes, short branches, compact plant shape, and concise, smooth styling. Branches may be curved or bent, but there is no deliberate pursuit of extreme twisting. Generally, 1-2 bends on the main trunk and 2-3 branches are enough. The branches and leaves should be somewhat more than those of other woody miniature bonsai types, but should not be too dense, so as to facilitate overall balance of metabolism. The plant form and composition should be designed according to the original characteristics of the pot and the material, with the trend of branches and leaves and the layout given appropriate emphasis, making the branches and leaves orderly in density and well arranged. The crown is about 1.5 times the pot diameter.
a. Watering and fertilizing: The miniature pot has a small volume and little soil, so heavy watering and concentrated fertilizer should be avoided. The soil should preferably be on the dry side, and not watered until dry. On sunny days in spring and late autumn, water in the morning and forenoon; in summer and early autumn, water at both ends of the day, in the evening water a small amount to moisten the soil so the leaves can recover from wilting, and in the morning water thoroughly. For fertilizing, adopt the practice of occasionally mixing a little dilute fertilizer water into the water used for irrigation. For the first few times, nitrogen should be dominant with phosphorus and potassium secondary; afterward, phosphorus and potassium should be dominant. To prevent excessive rain from causing leggy growth, if conditions permit, it can be placed under a sunny rain shelter for care.
b. Pinching, topping, wiring, and pruning:
Determine the timing of topping and pinching according to shaping needs. Generally, pinching and topping can be done at 4-5 leaves to lower plant height and lower the branching position. After the first branch formation, pinch again to form secondary branches.
Wiring should be done early, as soon as the plant has recovered growth after planting. Use aluminum wire 0.6-0.8 mm in diameter, insert one end into the soil, and wind the other end spirally around the branch at about a 45-degree angle, from the main trunk to the young branches, from bottom to top. When winding, the aluminum wire should be close to the branch and trunk, with moderate spacing. After winding, bend the branch into the desired shape. Finally, use the aluminum wire to press the leaf axil of the terminal young leaf to promote internode elongation of the young branch and form natural bends. Wiring should be carried out promptly as the branches grow. A plastic wrapping tape can also be used to bind thicker aluminum wire with young branches and then bend them for shaping. When growth is vigorous and branches are too long, appropriate pruning should also be carried out in time, shortening and cutting back to promote branching again, while cutting off overlapping branches and other excess branches.
c. Spraying growth retardant: When new branches appear, begin spraying 0.5% daminozide once every 7-10 days. If spraying 20-50 PPM paclobutrazol, attention should be paid to controlling the dosage and extending the interval.
d. Bougainvillea is a strongly sun-loving plant, heat-tolerant and not afraid of sun exposure, and should be kept under direct light for care, generally without shading. Cascading and semi-cascading forms can be placed at an angle or inverted.
e. When the branches and crown have initially formed, some flowering-promoting measures must be taken: such as widening the spacing between pots, placing them high for ventilation, increasing phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, controlling the amount of watering, and continuing wiring to regulate plant shape, etc.
6. Flowering period management: About two months after planting, flower buds may appear. At this time, pause wiring. For each branch, retain 3-4 inflorescences for double-petaled varieties, and retain 6-7 inflorescences for single-petaled varieties, then pinch. Concentrate nutrients so that double-petaled flowers bloom into balls and single-petaled flowers are large and brightly colored. During the flowering period, appropriately increase the amount of evening watering, continue watering with dilute fertilizer water mainly containing phosphorus and potassium, and to prevent severe wilting, a small amount of water can be added at noon, with the water temperature close to the soil temperature.
7. Post-flowering management: If managed properly, miniature bougainvillea potted plants can bloom three batches a year; new plants cultivated from May cuttings may also bloom twice in the same year. After flowering, cut back and shorten promptly to maintain plant shape and prevent branches from becoming too long; apply additional dilute fertilizer water mainly of nitrogen with phosphorus and potassium secondary; wire new branches early and spray growth retardant, etc.
8. Overwintering: Miniature pots are greatly affected by changes in external temperature and are prone to cold damage in winter. They should be placed on a sunny windowsill indoors or in a warm cabinet, striving to keep the temperature no lower than 8°C. If cold causes leaf drop, keep the potting soil on the dry side and let it remain dormant. When too dry, pour a small amount of lukewarm water along the edge of the pot. If the temperature is high and sunlight is good and leaves do not drop, and it can still bloom normally, then normal maintenance and management are required.
9. Later-stage care: After 1-2 years of miniature pot cultivation, repot, change the soil, trim the roots, and prune the branches; or partially change the soil, raise the roots, and take measures to make the main trunk appear old and gnarled. After one year of care, the prototype begins to appear. Transitioning from an ordinary miniature potted plant to an artistic potted plant or miniature bonsai still requires many years of shaping with pruning as the main method and wiring as the auxiliary method.