How to propagate Tianmu Viburnum by cuttings? Detailed propagation methods

How to propagate Tianmu Viburnum? In the following article, the editor of Huinong Network takes everyone to look at a research report on the cutting propagation technology of Tianmu Viburnum; farmer friends can learn the knowledge they want to know from it.

1 Materials and Methods

1.1 Experimental Materials

1.1.1 Plant materials: select plants that grow vigorously, are well developed and free of pests and diseases as mother plants for cutting collection, and cut 1-year-old vigorous branches from the mother plants as propagation material.

1.1.2 Cutting substrate and treatment: use Northeast peat + perlite (8:2) as the cutting substrate; before cutting, disinfect the substrate with a 0.2% potassium permanganate solution. Soak the cuttings in clean water for 30 min before planting.

1.2 Experimental Design and Cutting Method

1.2.1 Experimental design: the experiment used a completely randomized design. The treatments for different cutting times were Spring Festival (April) and autumn (October); the treatments for different cutting positions divided 1-year-old branches into upper, middle and lower 3 parts. Each treatment in each experiment had 3 replicates, with 20 plants per replicate.

1.2.2 Cutting method

Collect propagation material on a cloudy day or on a windless morning, and cut the cuttings in a cool place. The cuttings are 15-20 cm long and have 2 pairs of axillary buds. When cutting the cuttings, the cut surface is required to be smooth, with no tearing; the upper cut of the cutting is a flat cut, 2.5-3 cm from the terminal bud; the lower cut is slanted, and the lowest axillary bud is 0.5 cm from the cut. After cutting, align the thick and thin ends and tie them in bundles of 50. Use the method of opening a trench and burying the stems for cutting.

1.2.3 Post-cutting management

After cutting, water the seedbed thoroughly so that the cuttings are in close contact with the substrate. For autumn cuttings, cover with plastic in an arched shed at night for insulation; for spring cuttings, cover the seedbed with non-woven fabric for moisture retention.

1.2.4 Observation records and data analysis: after cutting, investigate the survival of the cuttings based on new shoot growth on the aboveground part, and use DPS statistical software for data statistical analysis.

2 Results and Analysis

2.1 Effect of cutting time on rooting rate of cuttings

In April 2014 (spring) and October 2014 (autumn), the thick middle part of 1-year-old branches was cut into cuttings to carry out a comparative experiment on different cutting times. About 2/3 of the cuttings of spring-planted seedlings sprouted axillary buds, and then gradually died back. For autumn-planted seedlings, root investigation was carried out at about 38 d; the root length was about 1 cm, and the rooting rate analysis results are shown in Table 1.

Table 1 Analysis of rooting rate of Tianmu Viburnum under different cutting times

From Table 1, it can be seen that the rooting rate of Tianmu Viburnum cuttings in autumn can reach 60%, while all spring cuttings died from "bud dieback", with a rooting rate of zero. Analyzing the reasons, in 2014 the nursery greenhouse was not heated, and in October the air temperature and soil temperature were relatively low. In spring, however, heating was still provided at night, and during the day

the temperature rose quickly, so the air temperature and soil temperature were relatively high. This indicates that the air temperature and soil temperature required for root differentiation of Tianmu Viburnum are relatively lower than those of other varieties, and high air temperature and soil temperature instead affect the rooting of cuttings.

2.2 Effect of different cutting positions on rooting of cuttings

According to the investigation results in October 2014, on November 4, 2014, 1-year-old branches were collected, and cuttings from different upper, middle and lower positions were cut for planting; on December 5, 2014, roots were excavated to investigate the rooting rate, and analysis was carried out; the results are shown in Table 2.

Table 2 Statistical analysis of rooting rate of Tianmu Viburnum cuttings from different positions

From Table 2, it can be seen that the rooting rate of cuttings from the upper part of 1-year-old branches was the highest, reaching 81.7%, with a significant difference from the middle and lower parts. According to observation, Tianmu Viburnum cuttings basically root at the base of the axillary buds; the cortex of individual middle cuttings protruded root primordia, and individual lower cuttings had callus tissue on the cut. Analyzing the reasons, Tianmu Viburnum cuttings mainly root at the base of the buds; the buds at the upper end of the branch have strong activity and high rooting ability, while the buds on the lower cuttings are basically dormant and the bud activity is low, so the rooting rate of lower cuttings is very low.

3 Conclusion

Through research on the greenhouse cutting propagation technology of Tianmu Viburnum, the survival rate of cuttings from upper 1-year-old branches was 81.7%. Therefore, the best cutting time screened for an unheated greenhouse is autumn (early November), the best cutting position is the upper part of 1-year-old branches with terminal buds, and the cutting substrate selected is a mixed substrate of Northeast peat + perlite (8:2).

Complete Flower Planting Manual

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: this month is the last month of winter and also the coldest period of the year second only to January. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm and transition to spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to recovery. The main flower matters this month are as follows: first, continue to do a good job in cold protection and insulation of potted flowers in protected facilities; second, do a good job in pruning and repotting some woody flowers after flowering; third, do the preparatory work for cuttings, grafting propagation and sowing propagation of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic sheds in February include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus fern, Gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus tinctorius, cornflower, Gaillardia, strawflower, Salvia splendens, marigold, Peacock chrysanthemum, petunia, California poppy, Phlox, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, snapdragon, Tropaeolum, pansy, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open field at the end of February include: magnolia, Michelia, Photinia, Acer, and Malus (Rosaceae) seeds that have already cracked and shown white after sand storage, as well as camphor, tulip tree, privet, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, palm, goldenrain tree, soapberry, horse chestnut, lilac, etc.; seeds of wintersweet, Calycanthus, wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours and sown after the seeds absorb enough water. Tuberose bulbs and amaryllis bulbs can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic sheds in February.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cuttings or by cuttings covered with plastic film for moisture retention in February include: plum blossom (after flowering, cut 1-year-old branches of cultivars such as Gongfen and Lüe), nandina, cotton rose (southern region), crape myrtle, Daphne (southern region), edgeworthia, pomegranate, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Jasminum, Serissa, hibiscus, Hypericum (plum), spiraea, Mahonia, boxwood, Lespedeza, etc. Sand-stored branches of lilac and trumpet creeper can also be cut at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela, Deutzia, hydrangea, tamarisk, plane tree, grape, fig, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cutting at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be cut indoors in February include: hibiscus, bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cuttings), begonia, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, geranium, jasmine, Chloranthus, bergamot, jade plant, jade leaf, Echeveria, gem plant, Epiphyllum, Nopalxochia, Pilea, Kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use 1-year-old robust black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Golden pine, lacebark pine, etc., and then plant in the ground and cover with film for insulation and moisture retention. Use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock, and use cleft grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on wintersweet branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use wintersweet seedlings with a diameter of about 0.8 to 1.2 cm as rootstock, and use cleft grafting to propagate excellent cultivars of wintersweet such as "Suxin", "Xinkou" and "Huti"; adopting bagging and inflating measures for moisture retention gives a relatively high survival rate. Use robust branches of the rose cultivar "Elizabeth" as rootstock and scion, and use cleft grafting or split grafting for superior rose scions; adopting the measures of grafting first, then cutting, and then covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection can greatly increase the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chaenomeles speciosa, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, gardenia, Weigela, Podocarpus, Emerald cypress, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Hypericum, hydrangea, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, red maple, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: iris, blackberry lily, Zephyranthes, Ophiopogon, large-leaf Ophiopogon, variegated Ophiopogon, Reineckea carnea, Rohdea japonica, Dicentra spectabilis, hosta, Purple hosta, Small taran, bromeliads, Tradescantia spathacea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, spider plant, Kalanchoe, canna, Calathea, Monstera, Syngonium, Strelitzia, Clivia, aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: nandina, cotton rose, Hypericum, Mahonia, hydrangea, Chaenomeles speciosa, edgeworthia, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, jasmine, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Osmanthus fragrans, bamboo, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. In February, seeds such as nandina, holly, Ardisia crenata, and winter cherry can be picked, treated, and then sand-stored for germination; sowing can be carried out only after the seeds crack and show white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various flower and tree seeds in sand storage to see whether there is seed mildew; if mildew occurs, clean them in time; if the seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with water spraying to maintain a certain humidity for the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them in a relatively short time. Once the radicle extends too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle, affecting the seedling emergence rate of the seeds. Large seeds in sand storage can be sown in holes, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows; after sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or adding plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, in southern regions where the soil does not freeze and the temperature is relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus, snapdragon, hollyhock, variegated holly, daisy, Calendula officinalis, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among the deciduous types are hibiscus, pomegranate, redbud, Malus, ginkgo, sweetgum, Acer, wisteria, crape myrtle, wintersweet, plum blossom (before budding and leafing out), Magnolia, soapberry, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow, spiraea, Sanyā, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica 'Pendula', Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden willow, cotton rose, smoke tree, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia, camphor, Elaeocarpus, Fatsia, Machilus, Phoebe sheareri, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; osmanthus, privet, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, oriental arborvitae, black pine, etc., should be given moderate pruning when planted.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two continuous months of indoor (in-shed) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed relatively more nutrients in the plant body, and the resistance of the plants has greatly declined, so work on moisture retention and cold protection should continue carefully. If greenhouses or plastic sheds have heating facilities, continue heating and prevent harmful gases or smoke from entering the shed or greenhouse; if straw curtains are hung on the top or around the shed, continue hanging them; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, continue to do a good job in ventilation and air exchange; especially by the end of February, ventilation time can be extended during the period of the highest temperature of the day. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them on the inner side of a south-facing window without opening the window.

For a small number of cold-sensitive flowers kept in households, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea, Syngonium, begonia, croton, Pink Daisy, etc., in particularly cold weather, plastic bags can be put on them at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom and heating appliances such as a "bath heater" can be turned on to ensure they overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. Because the temperature in February is relatively low, for the vast majority of potted flowers, keeping the potting soil moist and ensuring safe overwintering is sufficient, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor environments, frequently spray water and mist on the leaves of plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color, flower buds to stop growing, and in severe cases leaves to shrink and wrinkle, and flower buds to shrink and fall off, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, bitter orange, kumquat, winter cherry, etc., all of which may lose buds and fruits, or even die. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should basically be consistent with the indoor and in-shed air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, primrose, Kalanchoe, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Calendula officinalis, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as firethorn, nandina, bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, Ardisia crenata, four-season orange, winter cherry, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds and fruits, so that the leaves are green, the flower buds rapidly expand, and the fruits are brightly colored. In particular, for peonies, plum blossoms, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. placed in plastic sheds for forcing, water must also be sprayed on the branches 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of their flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For Cymbidium orchids purchased after being cultivated in greenhouses or plastic sheds, because the temperature and humidity in their original greenhouse or plastic shed differ greatly from those in the home, if their leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often shrink and dry up. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., it must be ensured that the potting soil is moist, and the plants should be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day; otherwise, the plants may very likely die.

    Although most potted flowers do not need much water in February, inspection should be strengthened; especially during several consecutive days of rising temperatures, supplementary watering and spraying should be strengthened in time.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, water should be supplemented in time; especially for those evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, appropriate leaf spraying should also be given around noon on clear days to prevent leaf shrinkage and shedding afterward, which would affect recovery growth in spring.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to bury base fertilizer for most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. They can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer periphery of the plant root system and then covering with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in greenhouses (plastic sheds) at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, Camellia sasanqua, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, Daphne, plum blossom, European daffodil, hyacinth, tulip, Christmas cactus, Nopalxochia, bromeliads, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate can continue to be applied as topdressing to benefit plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and stump bonsai placed in plastic sheds, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still dormant, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for ground-planted or potted plum blossoms, wintersweet, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, strong renewal pruning can be carried out; for branches that have bloomed, only 2 to 3 buds at the base are retained, and all the rest are cut off, to promote more new shoots in the current year and even denser branches and buds the next year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For stump bonsai types mainly pruned for shape, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, banyan, trident maple, Fujian tea, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, Geum japonicum, Elaeagnus, Ilex cornuta, holly, Serissa, Juniperus chinensis, Juniperus rigida, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them while pruning.

    5. Repotting. From late February to early March is a favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Usually repotting is best carried out when the plant is about to end winter dormancy, the root system is recovering growth, and the leaf buds have not yet emerged. Flower species that can be repotted at the end of February include: hibiscus, geranium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus, Brunfelsia, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, sword fern, Monstera, rubber tree, Fuchsia, begonia, wax begonia, painted-leaf begonia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, sago palm, Clivia, Haworthia, aloe, Christmas cactus, Nopalxochia, sedum, jade plant, jade leaf, Kalanchoe, amaryllis, Asparagus fern, spider plant, Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, Rohdea japonica, Strelitzia, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, coral plant, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, hydrangea, nandina, croton, Syngonium, Calathea, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, bitter orange, kumquat, bergamot, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses, and gray mold appearing on the leaves of primrose, etc., at the early stage of the disease choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder 1500-fold solution for spraying, once every 10 days, and 2 to 3 consecutive sprays are sufficient.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and corollas of potted cyclamen in plastic sheds, 50% iprodione (main component iprodione) wettable powder 1000 to 1500-fold solution can be sprayed.

For potted Belgian azaleas in plastic sheds, foliar spraying of foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" should be stopped, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the shed is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as bitter orange and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush; when there are many insects, 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 2000-fold solution can be sprayed to kill them. After aphids, scale insects and ants are killed, sooty mold will also be eliminated accordingly.

For insect bodies such as Pink scale, white peach scale, oystershell scale, and black brown round scale appearing on potted flower plants in plastic sheds, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% fenvalerate emulsifiable concentrate 2500-fold solution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% Iron-killing granules in the flower pot.

Continue to clean up dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted plants, and burn them centrally, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases the next year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and carry out sealed fermentation, so that in the growing season it can be diluted and used to water potted flowers. Or compost and ferment cake fertilizer, etc., spread it out to dry after about 2 months, and after fully drying, pack it well in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and dried cake fertilizer granular powder can be scattered in flower pots as topdressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium orchids, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than applying liquid cake fertilizer, especially for growing flowers on balconies, convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for preparing culture soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, continue to turn and cultivate garden plots that have not yet been plowed; after overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, then dig trenches and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Emerald cypress, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus rigida, oriental arborvitae, true juniper, ginkgo, Serissa, Juniperus procumbens, Japanese white pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, thousand-head red pine, Geum japonicum, Caragana, small golden coin plum, Corylopsis, Chaenomeles speciosa, crape myrtle, banyan, Ulmus parvifolia, trident maple, etc.

Continue to re-wire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If sunken binding constriction marks are found on the plant, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire, and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixation.

For shallow-pot stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, rock-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job in heat preservation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or artificially cemented rocks from freezing, cracking and disintegrating, causing unnecessary losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Ground-planted flower species

If the front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain extent, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively light-loving and have relatively high requirements for the growing environment. Ground-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, ginkgo, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, cotton rose, tulip tree, plum blossom, rose, fig, camellia, crape myrtle, peony, pomegranate, wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, nandina, red maple, redbud, hibiscus, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and humid, then choose some flower and tree species adapted to shady and humid conditions, such as palm, Photinia, Aucuba, French holly, privet, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, camphor, dragon juniper, Elaeocarpus, Podocarpus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, cedar, wintersweet, banana, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light and moisture conditions in your courtyard, when choosing ground-planted flowers and trees, attention should be paid to the following points: first, the minimum temperature that the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid freezing damage; second, they should be adapted to local soil and water conditions, to avoid incompatibility; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to hinder the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that may cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, which can achieve greening and beautification effects earlier, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, osmanthus, plum blossom, Podocarpus, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some vacant land for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many types of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for ground planting. The sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, globe amaranth, Step by step high, marigold, hollyhock, Impatiens, lupine, daisy, Calendula officinalis, corn poppy, Zephyranthes, dahlia, etc. The relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant types include: Ophiopogon, large-leaf Ophiopogon, Reineckea carnea, hosta, Purple hosta, Lycoris, Rohdea japonica, Tradescantia spathacea, Aspidistra, iris, Acorus calamus, Saxifraga stolonifera, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potting in home courtyards. When conditions are good, you can choose to plant some flower species requiring relatively meticulous management, such as plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, camellia, poinsettia, wintersweet, Belgian azalea, Norfolk Island pine, Brazil iron, money tree, queen palm, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, Ardisia crenata, bromeliads, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix wood), Fagraea ceilanica (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum (commonly known as peace tree), calla lily, primrose, Cymbidium orchids, anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia, hibiscus, Clivia, pothos, Fittonia, croton, Little Angel, Syngonium, bergamot, bitter orange, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, Calceolaria, fishtail palm, areca palm, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poor conditions, you can plant and grow some types requiring relatively extensive management, such as nandina, sago palm, Rhapis, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, amaryllis, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, Caragana, Serissa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans, cacti, Asparagus fern, rubber tree, Epiphyllum, Nopalxochia, Monstera, Philodendron, Schefflera, Pilea, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, bougainvillea, Big thorn, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, banyan, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: crape myrtle, redbud, wintersweet, Calycanthus, red maple, tulip tree; the latter five all need their seeds soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sowing is done after they absorb water thoroughly. Flower and tree species that can be sown for seedling propagation after sand storage and germination include: cycad, ginkgo, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus, fan palm, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, osmanthus, horse chestnut, nandina, holly, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, marigold, globe amaranth, zinnia, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, four-season primrose, mallow, Mirabilis jalapa, Strelitzia, Clivia, Asparagus fern, etc.; some cold-intolerant types should be sown in plastic shed covers.

    2. Cuttings. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cuttings in March include: hibiscus, geranium, Epiphyllum, Nopalxochia, Portulacaria afra, gem plant, Echeveria, hydrangea, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, silver bud willow, Hypericum, Podocarpus, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, gardenia, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, Emerald cypress, Daphne, firethorn, etc.; cold-sensitive flowers should be cut indoors or in sheds.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side grafting to propagate Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, Golden pine, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora seedlings as rootstock, cleft grafting to propagate Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cleft grafting to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling wintersweet as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select excellent cultivar wintersweet scions, carry out cleft grafting and give bagging for moisture retention, giving a relatively high survival rate; using triangular cactus as rootstock, graft to propagate Christmas cactus and various cactus ball types, preferably in plastic sheds. In addition, camellia, cherry blossom, osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be propagated by grafting in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, red maple, Podocarpus, Emerald cypress, Straight cypress, Michelia, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball, gardenia, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid types, Dicentra spectabilis, Aspidistra, Asparagus fern, sago palm, nandina, Mahonia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Sansevieria, purple triangular Oxalis, large-flowered canna, Alpinia zerumbet, dahlia, Strelitzia, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of ground-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out ground-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, tulip tree, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants bud and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; transplanting wintersweet, crape myrtle, redbud, hibiscus, horse chestnut, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc. is fine even after budding, but appropriate pruning is also required. Whether evergreen trees or deciduous trees, when transplanting, a sufficient soil ball should be taken; generally the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For ground-planted flowers and trees that were not buried with fertilizer in winter, before they sprout, dig a ring-shaped trench around the outer periphery of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc., or multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their growth throughout the year.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, wintersweet, Forsythia viridissima, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning dead branches, diseased and insect-infested branches, and excessive flowering branches, 1-year-old branches can be cut off at 2 to 3 cm from the base of the branch, retaining only 2 to 3 buds; through strong renewal pruning, they will sprout more new branches in spring and form more flower buds in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the next year. For camellia, Camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that damage the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, hibiscus, osmanthus, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the ventilation and light transmission of the plant.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected by pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles speciosa, grape, Malus halliana, etc., spraying Bordeaux mixture promptly after leaf expansion can prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew, rust, etc.

    2. Management of ground-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, Calendula officinalis, daisy, hollyhock, mallow, variegated Ophiopogon, Zephyranthes, Zephyranthes candida, iris, Reineckea carnea, Bookweed grass, Ophiopogon, red-flowered Oxalis, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted wintersweet, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, firethorn, Japanese white pine, nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, trident maple, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, etc. placed in the open, repot before they sprout and leaf out, replacing them with loose, fertile, fresh culture soil rich in organic matter, to lay a foundation for spring and summer growth. For indoor Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, rose, jasmine, hibiscus, Strelitzia, sago palm, poinsettia, Camellia sasanqua, camellia, Belgian azalea, Ardisia crenata, bitter orange, bergamot, lemon, Monstera, Philodendron, Clivia, Little Angel, Syngonium, Calathea, etc., repot before moving out of the room.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor maintenance in March, and equal importance must be given to cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves sometimes move south, from early to mid-March, work on heat preservation and cold protection must continue; in late March, doors and windows of the room can be opened during the day for ventilation and air exchange, and closed at night, so that Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, jasmine, hibiscus, poinsettia, Monstera, Little Angel, rubber tree, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can gradually undergo hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that would affect growth and normal flowering in the current year. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, work on heat preservation and cold protection still needs to continue this month, and vigilance must not be relaxed.

(3) Pruning. For indoor hibiscus, Fuchsia, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, sago palm, rubber tree, fishtail palm, areca palm, croton, Asparagus fern, begonia types, carry out necessary pruning together with repotting, including cutting off diseased and insect-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, weak branches, and some yellowed leaves. For trident maple, Podocarpus, true juniper, Huangshan pine, black pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus chinensis, oak, Syzygium buxifolium, etc. mainly appreciated for their stumps, wiring and pruning can also be carried out before sprouting in March to further improve their shape. For plum blossom, wintersweet, rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, etc., strong renewal pruning can be carried out after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

It is impossible for every urban household to have a small courtyard, nor is it possible for all to live on the first floor with a good small environment for growing flowers; more often, some relatively resistant ornamental plants are grown on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Among ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting, one category is relatively drought-tolerant plant types; their surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick and contains more sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle shapes with very little transpiration and water consumption, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, thus being very drought-tolerant, such as sago palm, cacti (Opuntia, peanut cactus, Crassula, golden barrel cactus, large column cactus, bishop's cap cactus, rat-tail cactus, coral tree), Portulacaria afra, jade plant, gem plant, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum, Nopalxochia, leaf cactus, Kalanchoe, etc. There are also wintersweet, winter jasmine, Lycoris, silver bract taro, Aglaonema, spider plant, etc.; these flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, and are relatively suitable for balcony planting. Another category is flower species relatively tolerant of direct sunlight and dry hot wind, able to accept full light and resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, also suitable for balcony potted planting (especially high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, rose, banyan, small-leaf privet, Agave, amaryllis, Sageretia thea, oak, Ulmus parvifolia, trident maple, Geum japonicum, black pine, Juniperus rigida, Sabina chinensis, dragon juniper, Ilex cornuta, holly, Vitex negundo, Euonymus, longevity peach, sun plant, etc. In addition, jasmine, Chloranthus, Japanese white pine, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra, bergamot, bitter orange, lemon, rubber tree, Monstera, Philodendron, camellia, Schefflera, Norfolk Island pine, etc. can also be used as slightly lower-level balcony potted plants, but water and shading management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as Salvia splendens, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, marigold, Impatiens, petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus fern or Clivia seeds are collected, after washing them clean, they can first be sown indoors, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, they can be moved to an outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Nopalxochia, Epiphyllum, jade plant, gem plant, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, coral tree, Crassula, etc. can be cut indoors at this time using plain sand or clean sandy loam, and moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms.

Use a large flower pot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as cutting substrate, and propagate gardenia, Fuchsia, hibiscus, bougainvillea, Podocarpus, rose pomegranate, Chaenomeles speciosa, nandina, Daphne, Ardisia crenata, etc. by cuttings indoors at a well-lit place by the windowsill, but the pot mouth should be well covered with plastic film for moisture retention.

On the balcony, when grafting Japanese white pine, plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, wintersweet, etc., bagging for moisture retention should be carried out; otherwise, survival is not easy.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation, cold protection, ventilation and exposure to light, plants that need repotting should be repotted in time. For relatively resistant flowers and trees placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil from freezing; if the potting soil freezes, it is easy to cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants in the current year, but in severe cases cause plant death. Measures such as building shelters on site or moving them indoors or into sheds can be taken for cold protection.

    2. Pruning. For stumps such as wintersweet, Ilex cornuta, holly, black pine, Japanese white pine, Podocarpus, trident maple, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Geum japonicum, small-leaf privet, etc., pruning and shaping can be carried out. Trunks and branches that need shaping can be wired and shaped in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil can be changed; for bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist as the standard, water once every 3 to 5 days, and appropriately spray water. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia viridissima, wintersweet, longevity peach, camellia, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be carried out after flowering to promote maintaining a good plant shape, and carry out a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cutting off branches and leaves infected by pests and diseases and destroying them; for dry cut surfaces on stumps, lime sulfur mixture, etc. can be applied for anti-corrosion treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can also be built on the balcony, with a hard board (precast reinforced concrete) supported on top, using the humidity produced by evaporation from the water pool; in summer, place some flowers that relatively prefer humid air on it, such as orchid types, Monstera, Ardisia crenata, nandina, etc. The stored water is relatively ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out of the room, you can also first set up stepped racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer, so that once potted flowers are moved out and encounter excessively strong sunlight, shade measures can be quickly put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare culture soil for repotting, and prepare sufficient various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Edition)

Weather characteristics of April: as the force of cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid air flow in the south becomes stronger and stronger, and the temperature rises significantly. After Qingming, although there is occasionally the influence of cold air moving south, it can no longer pose a threat to potted flowers in most areas south of the Huai River; only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River is there still the danger of snow and frost. After Guyu, the late frost has ended in areas south of the Jianghuai region, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases markedly. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for maintenance; while in the Huaibei region, potted flowers cannot be moved out until after the late frost ends in May. From south to north in April, flower matters include the following:

1. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include Cleome spinosa, Mirabilis jalapa, cockscomb, Amaranthus tricolor, portulaca, dahlia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, garden balsam, morning glory, cypress vine, cardinal vine, Nicotiana, petunia, China aster, coreopsis, snake's-eye daisy, marigold, red-yellow chrysanthemum, zinnia, asparagus fern, fairy primrose, nasturtium, Kochia scoparia, mapleleaf hibiscus, Mexican fire plant, basil, asparagus, cosmos, ladybell, sensitive plant, and so on. Magnolia family trees and shrubs that can be sown in April after sand stratification include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia cylindrica, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia sprengeri, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Oyama magnolia, Magnolia delavayi, Michelia, Manglietia, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia yuyuanensis, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia figo, Michelia floribunda, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunnanensis, Michelia foveolata, Michelia wilsonii, Chinese tulip tree, hybrid tulip tree, North American tulip tree, and so on; other ornamental trees and shrubs that can be sown in April

include: Japanese fir, golden larch, Norfolk Island pine, golden larch, crape myrtle, redbud, silk tree, Chinese yew, pittosporum, Chinese tallow tree, yellow-mountain luan, soapberry, sweetgum, maples, ornamental padauk, wintersweet, summer sweet, white spiraea, goji berry, nandina, coral ardisia, windmill palm, and so on.

Ornamental plants that can be sown fresh as collected in April include: African daisy, asparagus fern, primrose, winter coral, Japanese fatsia, and nipplefruit. Among these, for Japanese fatsia, you can pick the blackened, whitish, softened fruits at the end of April, rub and wash out the seeds, and sow them on fertile seedling beds; or you can first stratify the seeds in sand until they crack and show white, then sow, cover with grass and keep moist. Generally after two weeks, once about 70% of the seeds have sprouted, promptly remove the grass cover and build a shade frame; for cultivating nipplefruit, you can peel off the skin of the picked golden-yellow fruits, wash out the seeds, soak them in warm water for 24 hours, and sow them in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days the seeds will germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and the plant height reaches 15 cm, they can be transplanted, either potted for fruit display or planted in the ground as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, Japanese pagoda tree, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-flowered black locust, as well as cactus and Christmas cactus.

    3. Division

Greenhouse foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily, snake plant, cast-iron plant, ferns, lady palm, spider plant, agave, silver king dieffenbachia, Chinese evergreen, Guangdong evergreen, calathea, aloe, peperomia, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, and so on. Flowers that can be divided in April include: daylily, five-color plum, hibiscus, oleander, purple leaf barberry, crape myrtle, hypericum, red azalea, cymbidium, orchid, begonia, oxalis, etc.; fruit trees and shrubs that can be divided in April include: large-flowered pomegranate, flower-leaf orange, beautyberry, wisteria, rose, redbud, pomegranate, winter jasmine, multiflora rose, gardenia, etc. In addition, lotus and water lily can also be divided at this time.

    4. Cuttings

For most flowering trees and shrubs that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can be propagated by cuttings in April. The main types include: boxwood, mahonia, nandina, cypress, Buddhist pine, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn, spiraea, Chinese tulip tree, bridal wreath spiraea, edgeworthia, and flowering quince.

II. Repotting and Transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if during repotting not too much old soil is removed and roots are not severely pruned, they can be repotted in April. However, it should be noted: for deciduous flowering trees and shrubs, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossoms, they must never be repotted after the leaves have unfurled.

    2. April is the best time for transplanting outdoor flowering trees and shrubs. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfurled or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a soil ball in April. For evergreen trees and shrubs such as camphor tree, southern magnolia, Michelia, and white orchid, a portion of branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration from the canopy. For deciduous trees and shrubs, it is best to transplant before they leaf out, such as Magnolia denudata, horse chestnut, linden, crabapple, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, apricot, etc. Generally, the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the trunk of the transplanted tree or shrub. Only then, without damaging the soil ball, can the transplanted tree or shrub be free from worry.

III. Bonsai Styling

April is one of the best periods for bonsai styling. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice styling are those with strong adaptability whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as Buddhist pine, cypress, serissa, water willow, true cypress, winged euonymus, crape myrtle, velvet cypress, flower cypress, banyan, boxleaf holly, Chinese elm, winter jasmine, edgeworthia, ginkgo, black pine, Chinese juniper, etc. Other types suitable for styling in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, red machilus, Chinese ash, trident maple, oak, fragrant wood, golden bullet, hanging crabapple, Fujian tea, papaya, Elaeagnus, Chinese holly, golden larch, tiger thorn, etc.

As the bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, promptly use metal wire or non-metal wire to continuously wire, guide, and correct them so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid to the following three aspects this month: First, promptly remove buds. When the winter buds sprout and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length to promote shorter and denser new shoots. Second, remove female and male cones. When needle fascicle buds and female and male cones can be distinguished on new shoots, promptly remove all female cones at the tips of new shoots and male cones at the base of new shoots to reduce nutrient consumption during reproductive growth. Third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, using spraying instead of watering, to ensure that the new needles are short and clustered and the branch pads remain flat and well-formed.

IV. Fertilization Management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, rhododendron, winter jasmine, forsythia, daphne, kumquat, bitter orange, winter coral, Christmas cactus, Cymbidium goeringii, large-flowered cymbidium, Chinese cymbidium, Phaius tankervilleae, etc., because flowering or fruiting has consumed a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after warm spring, apply nitrogen-based fertilizer such as thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer solution to promote growth. For potted flowers about to bloom such as Chinese rose, redbud, pomegranate, Jianlan orchid, hibiscus, and white orchid, topdressing should also be given, with types such as monopotassium phosphate, and the concentration can be controlled at about 0.2%. For ground-planted Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, plum blossom, wintersweet, crabapple, etc. after flowering, topdressing should also be applied in time to meet their nutritional growth needs.

    2. Shaping and Maintenance

Money tree can be braided in April. Dig up seedlings of money tree that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose some moisture, then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, or 7 into a braid. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape, then choose a suitable pot to plant. The money tree has extremely strong vitality. Even if there is no time to process it into a braid or plant it, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjust Plant Shape and Prevent Diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower types prone to disease, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of Fruit-bearing Potted Plants

For potted fruit-bearing flowering plants that bloom in April, such as papaya, ginkgo, firethorn, Japanese aucuba, and hanging crabapple, especially dioecious or cross-pollinated types, during the flowering period, attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally. Do not miss the good opportunity.

    5. Management of Cutting Beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Except where intermittent misting equipment is available, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times daily to keep the cutting medium moist at all times, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Handbook: Summer

Flower Planting Handbook (May Edition)

Weather characteristics of May: temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north across China. After each rain, the temperature rises noticeably. With the frequent continuous spring rains, after the Xiaoman spring rains end, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for growing flowers. It plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. May flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers and flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown fresh as collected in May mainly include: fairy primrose, Japanese fatsia, leatherleaf mahonia, loquat, etc. May sowing and seedling raising should pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing seedbed moist, neither waterlogged nor too dry and dehydrated. Second, cover the sowing seedbed with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes between dry and wet that cause seeds to "return to bud." Third, after emergence, remove the grass cover in several stages and promptly build a shade frame to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For osmanthus, mature blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May. Mix with sand and rub off the flesh, rinse clean, then store in moist clean fine sand, where they can be kept until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and expose the tip of the radicle can they be sown in the ground. During storage, prevent rodents from stealing them and keep the sand moist.

For loquat sowing, the soil cover should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower types suitable for cutting propagation in May include: scarlet sage (pink, purple, white), globe amaranth (white), marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, Impatiens holstii, coleus, begonia, sulfur cosmos, Chinese rose, rhododendron, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower, poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, coral tree, nasturtium, Arabian jasmine, jasmine, chloranthus, red mulberry, deutzia, hydrangea, kerria, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, butterfly bush, trumpet vine, gardenia, epiphyllum, Rhaphidophora, orchid cactus, jade plant, gem flower, Oyama magnolia, Magnolia biondii, flowering quince, umbrella plant, lantana, red-back eupatorium, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, bleeding heart vine, Guangdong evergreen, cordyline, pothos, Schefflera, oleander, firethorn, mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo with aerial roots.

    3. Grafting

In May, use 1- to 2-year-old potted Magnolia liliiflora seedlings or cuttings as rootstock to graft and propagate white orchid and Michelia figo; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and weeping maple; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old azalea cuttings for cleft grafting to propagate Belgian azalea; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of Chinese rose; use yellow wormwood as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior varieties of chrysanthemum; use 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock for softwood grafting of superior wintersweet varieties, or use potted rootstock for grafting. In addition, cactus or triangular stem can be used as rootstock for grafting to propagate Christmas cactus.

    4. Layering

Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by air layering in May include: white orchid, rubber tree, aglaia, Belgian azalea, camellia, croton, Michelia, red maple, etc.; those that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese rose, gardenia, Buddhist pine, osmanthus, trumpet vine, etc.

II. Potting and Transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, the vast majority of types must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful maintenance, they can bloom on time by late September to early October, thereby creating a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful holiday atmosphere. The main types include: scarlet sage (pink, white, purple), globe amaranth (white), cockscomb, zinnia, sulfur cosmos, China aster, Kochia scoparia, marigold, dragon's mouth flower, asparagus fern, Impatiens holstii, coleus, begonia, etc.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and beginning of May, when Magnolia denudata has finished flowering and just before it sprouts and leafs out, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowering trees and shrubs that sprout later and transplant easily can also be transplanted with a soil ball and established in early May, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, redbud, pomegranate, and silk tree.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, potted ornamental plants will gradually increase their water demand. In addition to combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of irrigation and spray water. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not directly use tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a pool or small vat, then an appropriate amount of acidifying substance such as ferrous sulfate can be added to increase the acidity of the water, with the concentration controlled between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flowers suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, rhododendron, red azalea, gardenia, daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, red-flowered camellia, etc.; foliage types include: sago palm, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, lady palm, rubber tree, ferns, Buddhist pine, croton, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, arrowhead vine, calathea, bromeliads, Brazilian ironwood, money tree, Schefflera, etc.; fruit-bearing types include: bitter orange, firethorn, kumquat, fingered citron, lemon, nandina, winter coral, coral ardisia, etc.

    2. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For the shortening pruning of white orchid not long after being moved out, special attention should be paid because its branch pith is loose and the cut surface easily loses water and dries downward. For this reason, cuts should be made 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye intended to be retained, and must never be too close to the bud eye. For potted Chinese rose, after flowering, pruning should moderately lower the height by 10 to 20 cm, so that bud eyes located in the middle of the branch can produce flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. For bud removal on potted wintersweet plants, attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud; otherwise, the wound will dry and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For Chinese rose potted in the current year, promptly remove the terminal bud to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade frame or tree shade, such as: Monstera deliciosa, lady palm, calathea, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, pink arrowhead, fan palm, arrowhead vine, orchid, rhododendron, bird of paradise, camellia, sasanqua, etc. For light-loving flowering trees and shrubs, full light must be provided, such as wintersweet, sago palm, Chinese rose, firethorn, jasmine, white orchid, etc. Bonsai plants such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, trident maple, water willow, oak, serissa, black pine, and lacebark pine require full light; while Buddhist pine, tiger thorn, red machilus, and cypress can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, rhododendron, sasanqua, plum blossom, aglaia, jasmine, white orchid, gardenia, wintersweet, Chinese rose, daphne, clivia, orchid, crabapple, etc., after flowering, remove residual flowers and withered stems and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen with phosphorus as a supplement, once every half month, to restore vegetative growth while laying a foundation for producing flower buds again. For foliage-oriented types such as rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, cast-iron plant, and ferns, apply a thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer solution once every half month. For foliage plants with colored spots or patterns, such as golden-edge snake plant, colorful bromeliad, golden-heart Brazilian ironwood, croton, caladium, white butterfly arrowhead vine, and pink arrowhead, a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as a foliar feed, which can make their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

For Chinese rose, climbing rose, and rugosa rose, attention should be paid to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot. For leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticide to kill them. For common leaf-eating pests on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, fingered citron, lemon, and rue??? citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, spray pesticide early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Ornamental bonsai plant types that can still be styled in May include: plum blossom, small-leaf gardenia, Gardenia jasminoides, Buddhist pine, serissa, cypress, water willow, fragrant wood, ginkgo, etc. It is worth noting that when styling, one must be careful and cautious, trying not to injure the bark and structure of the branches and trunks; otherwise, it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Handbook (June Edition)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain begins on June 12 and ends on July 7. At this time, evenly matched cold and warm air masses meet in the region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with prolonged continuous rain. For some flowers that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant and for the vast majority of bonsai, care should be especially careful to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, which can disrupt styling or affect normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. June flower care from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seed, sago cycad, loquat, wintersweet, etc. For wintersweet, when the pot-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow and then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked. Promptly peel open the fruit capsule, release the seeds, first soak in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white; at this time, open a furrow and sow. The soil cover thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm, cover with rice straw to retain moisture, and after most seeds' cotyledons emerge, remove the grass cover in 2 to 3 stages and promptly build a shade frame.

    2. Cuttings

Summer has high temperatures and high humidity, and the cambium in the branches of flowering trees and shrubs is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation. There are two major categories of flowering trees and shrubs suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category is those that are difficult to root or slow to root from hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus, camellia, Michelia, Chinese holly, wintergreen, lilac, Magnolia liliiflora, flowering quince, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball, coral tree, coral tree, Belgian azalea, Buddha belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood, pond cypress, bald cypress, etc. The other category is those that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, Chinese rose, firethorn, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, serissa, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Caragana, jasmine, chloranthus, dragon-leaf pearl, lantana, kerria, bougainvillea, fingered citron, lemon, Buddhist pine, nandina, trumpet vine, red-back eupatorium, honeysuckle, hibiscus, cordyline, hypericum, golden-flowered hypericum, golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Brazilian ironwood, coral ardisia, edgeworthia, croton, deutzia, mock orange, crape myrtle, weigela, snowball, peach-leaf aucuba, Schefflera, mahonia, Japanese fatsia, bridal wreath spiraea, hydrangea, poinsettia, etc. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as five-claw golden dragon, ivy, nasturtium, larkspur, qianqiu tea, heliotrope, umbrella plant, geranium, coleus, begonia, pansy, globe amaranth, zinnia, French marigold, marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc.

Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is most ideal when the young shoots of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified. The medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite. The cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the tip. The lower cut end is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthaleneacetic acid solution, briefly air-dried, then inserted into the seedbed. The insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with a plant-to-row spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches over the seedbed, cover with plastic film, press the edges firmly with mud, build a double-layer shade frame for shading, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month, the cuttings will root abundantly.

    3. Grafting

For grafting, use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft superior varieties of wintersweet; use potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock to graft white orchid, Michelia, etc. For bud grafting, use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to propagate superior Chinese rose varieties; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, dwarf flowering cherry, plum blossom, elm-leaf spiraea, etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, red maple, etc. For branch grafting, use oil tea, red-flowered camellia, or single-petal seedling camellia as rootstock for branch grafting of camellia and sasanqua; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among hairy azaleas as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting of Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in June include: rhododendron, honeysuckle, hydrangea, snowball viburnum, Chinese snowball, weigela, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, aglaia, chloranthus, jasmine, white orchid, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower types that can be propagated by division in June include: Boston fern, calla lily (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo, umbrella plant, purple-back oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, cast-iron plant, spider plant, Acorus, golden-edge lilyturf, etc.

II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment

    1. Seed Collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: dianthus, cornflower, snapdragon, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, calceolaria, amaryllis (sow fresh as collected), etc.

    Flowering tree and shrub seeds that can be collected in June: after collecting wintersweet seeds, if nursery conditions do not allow, the released seeds can also be dry-stored until the following spring before sowing, without affecting their germination rate. Peach, apricot, etc. should be sown fresh as collected, or their seeds can be stratified in sand until they crack and germinate before sowing in the ground. Osmanthus seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the seed embryo; when they germinate, select nursery land for sowing.

    2. Transplanting, Establishment, and Potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need to be transplanted, established, or potted, including: evening primrose, Cleome spinosa, garden balsam, New Guinea impatiens, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, red-clothed tobacco, petunia, marigold, French marigold, zinnia, globe amaranth, scarlet sage, dragon's mouth flower, Kochia scoparia, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, red-green grass, etc.

Entering summer, some large flowering trees and shrubs are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and post-transplant growth. However, for some small flowering shrubs such as Japanese fatsia, leatherleaf mahonia, mahonia, hypericum, gardenia, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, and boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is not out of the question, exactly as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, but do not let the tree know." However, after transplanting, misting and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower Management

    1. Watering

    For potted flower watering in June, attention should be paid to the following aspects: First, watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m., and under normal circumstances watering once a day is sufficient. Second, watering temperature, which should be kept basically consistent with the pot soil temperature. If the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the roots and leaves of potted flowers and affect their growth. Third, combine watering and spraying. During weather with no rain for several days, in addition to watering the pot, also spray water on the leaf surface and around the potted flowers to increase local spatial humidity. If there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and spray according to the dryness and wetness of the pot soil.

Flower types that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones such as: red wood sorrel, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia, etc., when the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced, and keeping the pot soil moist is sufficient. Deeply dormant types such as: cyclamen, Lycoris (species), ranunculus, Dutch peony, etc., under high temperatures show aboveground stems and leaves withering and underground nutrient fibrous roots dying, resting through summer as underground stems or tuberous roots in the soil. Watering must be stopped for them, move them to a cool place, and keep the pot soil from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively check the potted flowers. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the pot soil dries, loosen the soil to avoid root rot. Alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, set them upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing types such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant, arrowhead vine, calathea, Boston fern, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, sago palm, cast-iron plant, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, green queen, rubber tree, anthurium, red-back eupatorium, lady palm, Norfolk Island pine, Brazilian ironwood, Buddhist pine, money tree, wintersweet, Chinese rose, white orchid, aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, daphne, rhododendron, fragrant osmanthus, lantana, bleeding heart vine, shrimp plant, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., apply a thoroughly decomposed dilute cake fertilizer solution once every half month. For types currently in bloom, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet their needs for growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower types in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for succulent flower types such as jade plant, Christmas cactus, Haworthia, Senecio, squirrel's tail, Lampranthus, stapelia, sedum, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization should be stopped to avoid rotting.

    3. Pruning and Bud Removal

(1) Pruning. For vigorously growing types such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, Buddhist pine, Fujian tea, true cypress, cypress, water willow, Chinese juniper, Chinese holly, wintergreen, trident maple, snow willow, tamarisk, firethorn, etc., branches that affect the styling should be pruned or shortened as early as possible. This can keep the plant with clear layers and a good appearance, and can promote more short branches and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal. For flowers such as aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, and Chinese rose, residual flowers and withered stems should be removed promptly, and branches that have flowered should be appropriately shortened to promote lower side branches or flower buds to bloom again. For flowering trees and shrubs such as white orchid, bitter orange, rhododendron, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, and crabapple, in order to promote a good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or next year, pinch and remove buds on excessively vigorous branches to suppress the growth of terminal and lateral shoots and promote side bud germination.

    4. Shading

    In June, for those flowering trees and shrubs that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure, such as hosta, purple hosta, asparagus fern, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, chloranthus, bird of paradise, orchid, lady palm, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, arrowhead vine, pink arrowhead, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pothos, peperomia, green giant, red (green) gem, green emperor, red queen, fan palm, daphne, cast-iron plant, spider plant, etc. Light-loving flower types must be given sufficient light, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, serissa, sago cycad, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, trident maple, Japanese apricot, Chinese holly, wintergreen, water willow, oak, black pine, lacebark pine, white orchid, aglaia, Chinese rose, mahonia, grape, etc. Buddhist pine, tiger thorn, nandina, Buddha belly bamboo, bamboo, five-needle pine, and Buddhist pine can be given appropriate shading.

    5. Pest and Disease Control

(1) Chinese juniper, cypress, Chinese elm, papaya, firethorn, Buddhist pine, crabapple, etc. are susceptible to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles, and poison sticks should be used promptly to block and control them.

(2) Chinese rose, climbing rose, and rugosa rose are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot during the plum rain season, and Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed early for control.

(3) White orchid, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. are susceptible to aphid damage, and appropriate pesticides should be selected early for spraying and killing.

(4) Orchid leaves are easily infected by anthracnose, and fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for control.

(5) Bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, fingered citron, etc. have tender leaves easily eaten by citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae, and pesticides such as contact insecticides and stomach poisons can be sprayed to kill them.

IV. Bonsai Styling

Plant types that can be styled in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and must be plants potted and hardened off in early spring or planted in the ground. They are: Buddhist pine, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus, Huashan pine, cypress, Chinese juniper, Chinese holly, wintergreen, goji berry, five-needle pine, hanging crabapple, Xifu crabapple, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, serissa, black pine, boxleaf holly, Chinese elm, tamarisk, water willow, true cypress, ginkgo, snow willow, firethorn, etc. June styling must be careful, with light wiring and slow bending. Never rush or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5, Grain in Ear; June 21, Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Handbook (July Edition)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain weather in the Yangtze-Huai region ends. On July 16, the dog days begin, and on August 15, the dog days end. Most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and in areas south of the Yangtze-Huai region it is 28°C. Only northern Northeast China and the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau have an average July temperature below 20°C. July flower care management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower Propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria, fairy primrose, ornamental kale, campanula, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increased ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, mature fruits of plum, peach, wild peach, elm-leaf spiraea, etc. can also be picked. After washing off the flesh, immediately open furrows and sow, or store the washed stone fruits in moist sand until they crack and then sow. Wintersweet seeds can be sown fresh as collected, or the seeds released from the fruit capsule can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, without affecting their germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    Herbaceous flower types suitable for cutting propagation in July include: purslane, begonia, coleus, clearweed, scarlet sage, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Dutch aster, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, Boston ivy, coral flower, peperomia, Rhaphidophora, Chinese knotweed, kalanchoe, pothos, etc.
    Woody flowering plant types suitable for cutting propagation in July include: red-back eupatorium, nandina, poinsettia, crown of thorns, hypericum, golden-flowered hypericum, weigela, hydrangea, snowball, bridal wreath spiraea, daphne, gardenia, edgeworthia, Oyama magnolia, bougainvillea, aglaia, jasmine, chloranthus, Schefflera, mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, firethorn, cordyline, hibiscus, serissa, Michelia, coral tree, rubber tree, Chinese snowball, Tianmu snowball, boxwood, fig, Magnolia liliiflora, osmanthus, rhododendron, camellia, sasanqua, dragon-claw willow, golden willow, etc. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July, water cuttings can also be used to propagate some flowering trees and shrubs. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, chloranthus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, etc. To use water cuttings to propagate flowering trees and shrubs, first prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick, perforate it, and use it as fixing material for cuttings. Second, keep the water used for cuttings clean; a few pieces of charcoal can be added for anti-corrosion purposes.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedling rootstocks of wild peach, peach, etc. can be used for bud grafting to propagate ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum blossom, elm-leaf spiraea, red-leaf plum, beauty plum, etc.; use cuttings of wild rose, rose, and "Ten Sisters" as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate variety Chinese roses, cut-flower Chinese roses, and rugosa roses, etc.; use potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock for grafting to propagate white orchid, Michelia figo, etc.; use potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock for grafting to propagate superior varieties of wintersweet; 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings can also be used as rootstock, using the method of softwood side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and whether it has survived can be judged after 7 to 10 days; use "Purple Butterfly" and "Jade Butterfly" among hairy azaleas as rootstock for cleft grafting or side grafting to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; use cherry seedlings as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of flowering cherry; use current-year seedling rootstocks of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, or hanging crabapple and crabapple for "T"-shaped bud grafting to propagate superior varieties of crabapple; use seedling rootstocks of Japanese maple for bagged grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and other seedlings.
    4. Layering
    Flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering in July include: aglaia (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, trumpet vine, Chinese snowball, oleander, weigela, Caragana, osmanthus, gardenia, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, chloranthus, climbing Chinese rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    Ornamental plant types that can be divided in July include: hosta, purple hosta, Acorus, umbrella plant, cast-iron plant, purple-back oyster plant, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, lilyturf,Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily, Boston fern, iris, wandering Jew, etc. II. Seed Collection and Transplanting/Establishment
    1. Seed Collection
    Flower seeds that can be harvested in July include: hollyhock, mallow, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, coreopsis, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Lampranthus spectabilis, and so on.
    Woody plant seeds that can be harvested in July include: wintersweet, plum, hairy peach, mountain peach, elm-leaved spirea, and so on.
    2. Transplanting for field planting and potting up
    July is the main period for potting up the herbaceous flowers to be displayed during the National Day holiday. The herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted up at this time can be seedlings from seed or cuttings, and after 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around the National Day holiday for festive decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Guinea impatiens, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, Kochia scoparia, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, and so on.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, it is also feasible to transplant some flowering shrubs with root balls, such as Mahonia fortunei, Hypericum, golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, Aucuba, dragon juniper balls, and so on. However, targeted pruning must be carried out, shade frames must be built in time, and the frequency of water spraying must be increased. After they have basically survived, they can be transferred to normal management. Do not be careless.
III. Flower management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter a semi-dormant state at high temperatures, such as red wood sorrel, Pelargonium species, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, Begonia species, Sedum, kalanchoe, cactus species, Haworthia cooperi, Stapelia grandiflora, string of pearls, Senecio rowleyanus, Daphne, Christmas cactus, Portulacaria afra, aloe, and so on, because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it easily causes root rot and also seriously affects their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter a deep dormancy state at high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Ranunculus asiaticus, Dicentra spectabilis, and so on, in July the aboveground stems and leaves wither and the underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they overwinter in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For flowers in deep dormancy, watering should be stopped, they should be moved to a cool place, and the potting soil should simply be kept not too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, Aspidistra, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Norfolk Island pine, Calathea species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', pink-striped Aucuba, Brazilian iron, money tree, camellia, sasanqua, Aucuba, Pyracantha, bitter orange, lemon, Podocarpus, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, and so on, not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but the leaves should also be appropriately sprayed with water, combining watering and spraying. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should likewise be carried out, and carelessness must be avoided. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray water on the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand upright, then water the roots. Never pour water forcefully at the roots, otherwise it very easily causes woody flowers to "drop green leaves," or leads to rot of the plant's nutrient fibrous roots, and may even cause plant death.
For potted plum bonsai, because July to August is its flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water withholding" should be applied to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second flush of new shoots produces 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest, and flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axils of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, the few hours around noon should be avoided. It is best to water before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which would affect the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If water accumulation is found in the pots, pour it out promptly, and after the potting soil dries slightly, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, fertilizer management should be strengthened for four major categories of ornamental plants. The first is species with a particularly long flowering period, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Magnolia denudata, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, and so on; the second is species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, cotton rose, and so on; the third is species grown in winter for flowers and fruit, such as bitter orange, Nandina, wintersweet, azalea, and so on; the fourth is foliage plants, such as bamboo palm, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, and so on. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to necessary nitrogen fertilizer, appropriate amounts of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional assurance for bud formation, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the fertilizing method, applying thin liquid fertilizer is preferable.
    In July, herbaceous flowers whose fertilization should be strengthened include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, zinnia, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, Jianlan orchid, marigold, four o'clock flower, dragon's mouth flower, and so on. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, banana shrub, osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, Malus species, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, azalea, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, rose of Sharon, cotton rose, and so on. There are many kinds of foliage plants, such as Bromeliaceae species, Brazilian iron, bamboo palm, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Calathea, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline, and so on.
   In July, fertilization must be stopped for ornamental plants in a dormant or semi-dormant state, especially for succulent ornamental plants such as Sedum species, Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus spectabilis, Stapelia variegata, and so on. Fertilization must be stopped even more firmly to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be top-pruned and bud-pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the tender terminal buds at the shoot tips with the fingers. Bonsai plants suitable for pinching mainly include: Chinese elm, Japanese apricot bonsai, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, boxleaf euonymus, wintersweet, Pyracantha, Podocarpus, tamarisk, Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia, hackberry, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple, crape myrtle, Serissa, orange jasmine, and so on. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoots, promoting the sprouting of lower lateral buds, and causing them to form graceful crown pads or tree shapes. Bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are inconvenient to pinch with the fingers, such as Juniperus rigida, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, oak, Ilex cornuta, and true juniper, and so on.
For potted flower species that bloom continuously for a long time, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, and so on, their spent flowers and withered stalks should be removed promptly, and the branches that have already bloomed should be properly shortened, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and reblooming. For azalea, camellia, sasanqua, Malus, wintersweet, plum blossom, and so on, overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened, so as to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperature of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For those ornamental plants that prefer shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to avoid damage to the plants from scorching sun exposure. Such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta, Monstera deliciosa, camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise, orchid species, bamboo palm, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, pink-striped Aucuba, pothos, Peperomia species, Aspidistra, Tradescantia zebrina, Brazilian iron, Epipremnum pinnatum, Bromeliaceae species, Calathea species, Reineckea carnea, and so on.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, Pyracantha, jasmine, Serissa, sago palm, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, peach, plum blossom, wintersweet, Chinese elm, Japanese apricot bonsai, trident maple, black pine, Adina rubella, oak, Pinus parviflora 'Nishiki,' Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, and so on. For Podocarpus, Podocarpus nagi, banana shrub, Damnacanthus, cloud bamboo, Buddhist bamboo, five-needle pine, and so on, appropriate shading is necessary.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature is too high and the air is relatively dry this month, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, flower species with a relatively high degree of leathery leaves, or with a relatively thick cuticle on the leaf surface, slightly tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance should be chosen, such as rubber tree, Japanese aralia, Mahonia fortunei, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Malvaviscus, Chinese fan palm, bamboo palm, Canary Island date palm, Bromeliaceae species, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera, Aspidistra, Aucuba, and so on, while species such as sword fern, coleus, Philodendron 'Green Giant,' Syngonium, and so on are not suitable. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner vents, to prevent direct drafts from striking the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf margins to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new shoots unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are easily infected by anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and, in severe cases, can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are even more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period, spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or at 500 times dilution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the root crowns or trunks of plum, peach, Malus species, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, elm-leaved spirea, and so on, it is mostly caused by larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Control methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic insecticides, insertion of poisoned sticks, and soil application of carbofuran can be used, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the tree trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, dimethoate, omethoate, and so on should be avoided to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, timely control should be carried out against the box tree webworm that damages boxleaf euonymus, Japanese box, sharp-leaf box, and pearl box. When this pest occurs severely, it can completely eat all the leaves bare. Once discovered, pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate can be sprayed promptly. If long-term use of a certain pesticide has caused resistance, a new type of pesticide can be substituted.
(4) In July, in some areas, larvae of the citrus swallowtail butterfly will continue to damage the leaves of new shoots of bitter orange, kumquat, Glycine max, finger citron, lemon, citron, and rue. Stomach-poison insecticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) The white wax insect that damages privet, small-leaf privet, Ligustrum sinense, and Fraxinus chinensis has its eclosion period from late July to late August. The right time should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing damage again the following year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest damaging large-leaf euonymus, plane tree, Pittosporum, camellia, red-leaf plum, deodar cedar, and so on. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover the branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai shaping
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches that are damaged are prone to infection by pathogens and are not easy to heal and recover. Most tree stump species are no longer suitable for further wiring and shaping. The plant species that can still be shaped are those with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they are required to be plants that were potted in spring for hardening off or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Podocarpus, Thujopsis dolabrata, Calocedrus macrolepis, Serissa, black pine, boxleaf euonymus, Adina rubella, and so on.
    In July, plant shaping should be done carefully and meticulously, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually. Do not operate hastily or use too much force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plant's branches and trunk to break, endangering its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7 is Minor Heat; July 23 is Major Heat.

Flower Planting Handbook: Autumn

Flower Planting Handbook (August volume)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
    August has high temperature, strong light, and low humidity, and is the hot, dry period second only to July in the year. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. Potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display are some light-loving or high-temperature-tolerant species. Among the woody flowers are mainly: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Pinus parviflora 'Nishiki,' five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Huashan pine, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon of Orchid Island, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus variegata, Chinese hibiscus, Lantana camara, coral tree (Erythrina), Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, bamboo palm, money tree, Schefflera, plumeria, four-season osmanthus, oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese aralia, golden-spotted Aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Fujian tea, banyan, Chinese rose, and so on. Herbaceous flowers include: impatiens, large-flowered canna, shell ginger, scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, Begonia maculata, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, phlox, five-color pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, pot marigold, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four o'clock flower, zinnia, and so on. In addition, there are Aspidistra, Guangdong evergreen, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, silver-veined Aglaonema, and so on.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flowers that can be sown in August include: tree peony, elm-leaved spirea, red-flowered camellia, summer wintersweet, American summer wintersweet, Podocarpus, and so on. They can be sown as soon as collected, or the seeds can be stored in wet sand until they crack and show white, and then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. Ornamental pomegranate is harvested after the fruit ripens and splits, the fleshy layer outside the seeds is rubbed off, and the seeds are sand-stored until germination and then sown. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, Oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, and so on. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, Chinese primrose, coleus, pot marigold, and so on.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate prepared from alkaline-leached rice husk ash and wet fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, for moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings, the following flower species can be propagated: Pyracantha, Mahonia species, wintersweet, banana shrub, bougainvillea, coral tree, Aglaia odorata, golden-spotted Aucuba, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree, galo wood, Podocarpus, Schefflera species, Cordyline, hydrangea, purple magnolia, and so on. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, and so on as substrate, cuttings can be made of boxwood species, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, French holly, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, Nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, Serissa, Spiraea, snow spray, gardenia, and so on. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, and so on can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flower trees can be grafted: in northern regions, use fringe tree as rootstock and cleft graft osmanthus; use purple magnolia and Magnolia denudata as rootstocks and bud graft to propagate Magnolia soulangeana; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and cleft graft Michelia alba; use current-year seedlings of hairy peach as rootstock and bud graft plum, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf cherry, elm-leaved spirea, and so on; use cherry seedlings as rootstock and bud graft Japanese cherry; use wild rose, pink cluster rose, and so on as rootstocks and bud graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use seedlings of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, Malus hupehensis, and so on as rootstocks and bud graft Malus micromalus and Malus halliana; use green maple as rootstock and top-graft red maple and feather maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock and cleft graft variegated weeping fig; use single-petal camellia as rootstock and cleft graft superior varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft graft or side graft superior varieties of wintersweet. In addition, large-flowered wisteria can also be propagated by cleft grafting.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, trumpet creeper, banksia rose, climbing Chinese rose, weigela, hydrangea, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, oleander, gardenia, broom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, osmanthus species, purple magnolia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, banana shrub, Chinese hibiscus, Podocarpus, coral tree, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), and so on.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, Philodendron 'Little Angel,' multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor,' Bromeliaceae, Polygonatum odoratum, Aspidistra, umbrella plant, Adina pilulifera, red (green) gem, iris, blackberry lily, purple triangular wood sorrel, Guangdong evergreen, Dutch chrysanthemum, fine-leaf sweet flag, sword fern, silver-veined Aglaonema, Calathea species, Syngonium, Haworthia, and so on. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia, and so on can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of courtyard field-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, for some flowering shrubs, when transplanted with large root balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, strengthening management such as shading, watering, and spraying after transplanting can achieve a relatively high survival rate, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-edge thousand-head Platycladus orientalis, golden-heart (edge) box, Hypericum, Mahonia fortunei, Japanese aralia, Chinese rose, azalea, gardenia, Podocarpus, banana shrub, dragon juniper ball, Shu juniper ball, boxwood ball, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, Aucuba, French holly, and so on. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted for field planting, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, and so on, which can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, roadside hedges in the courtyard such as boxwood, small-leaf privet, privet, golden-leaf privet, French holly, and Photinia davidsoniae should continue to be pruned. For field-planted ball-shaped plants, such as Photinia, dragon juniper, Shu juniper, bayberry, Pyracantha, Pittosporum, Ilex cornuta, holly, and so on, pruning must also be carried out again. For field-planted flower trees that bloom continuously for a long time, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, Lantana camara, and so on, spent flowers should be removed promptly, and the branch tips should be properly shortened. For field-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, peacock chrysanthemum, marigold, and so on, top pruning and pinching should be carried out.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and field-planted herbaceous flowers, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are wrapped with straw ropes, the straw ropes should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more and water cautiously, ensuring no water accumulation at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for field-planted red-flowered Loropetalum, golden-edge (heart) box, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, purple-leaf dwarf cherry, croton, red mulberry, golden-spotted Aucuba, shell ginger, and so on, in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For species that continue to bloom, such as Chinese rose, daily fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, flowering pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, Lantana camara, and so on, as well as species about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, autumn peony, and so on, appropriate amounts of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied promptly. For camellia, sasanqua, plum, wintersweet, and so on that are in the process of flower bud differentiation, a small amount of potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed as foliar topdressing.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on deodar cedar, privet, Pittosporum, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, camellia, and so on, 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution should be sprayed promptly for control. For chrysanthemum beetle, aphids, and so on occurring on field-planted chrysanthemums, 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution can be sprayed to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and cutworm that gnaw on Chinese rose leaves, 10% fenvalerate at 1000 times dilution should be sprayed promptly for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flower species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, elm-leaved spirea, red-flowered camellia, Podocarpus, summer wintersweet, and so on. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, sunrose, four o'clock flower, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer, and so on.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering should be done between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For those ornamental plant species that prefer acidity, 0.1% ferrous sulfate can be added to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as calceolaria, gloxinia, iron cross begonia, hairy-leaf begonia, and so on, water droplets that fall on the leaf surface are not easy to evaporate and easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the flower bud clusters in the leaf rosette of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the leaf rosette of clivia also must not be drenched with water, as dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette can cause heart rot; for Bromeliaceae, water must be applied sparingly and misted frequently, and water should be poured into the leaf cup to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, attention must be paid to loosening the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to become compacted. For flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, watering and spraying should be controlled, just enough to keep the potting soil slightly moist. By spraying water around the small environment around the flower pots, a relatively cool and moist environment can be created for them.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, bamboo palm, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, Queen palm, beautiful phoenix palm, areca palm, fish-tail palm, Chinese fan palm, pothos, Brazilian wood, Dutch iron, money tree, sword fern, pandanus tree, Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), cinnamon of Orchid Island (pingan wood), coin tree (dragon-phoenix wood), Syngonium, Philodendron 'Green Emperor,' Philodendron 'Green Queen,' poinsettia, pink-striped Aucuba, Schefflera, Aucuba, pocket coconut, croton, Japanese aralia, and so on, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be applied, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, four-season osmanthus, daily fragrant osmanthus, bougainvillea, Lantana camara, and so on, as well as fruit-viewing plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha, golden bullet, fruit pomegranate, Nandina, papaya, and so on, in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, appropriate amounts of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate, and so on. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, drought chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, China aster, chrysanthemum, dwarf sunflower, and so on, thin liquid fertilizer can be applied once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flower tree species in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, sasanqua, plum, osmanthus, azalea, and so on, low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied as foliar topdressing. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, never let the fertilizer liquid drip onto the leaves, so as to avoid causing leaf rot. To be safe, after fertilizing, spray the leaves once promptly to wash off any fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormant and semi-dormant states, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, Daphne, aloe, kalanchoe, Portulacaria afra, Christmas cactus, Sedum species, purple triangular wood sorrel, cactus species, cactus ball species, and so on, all forms of topdressing must be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the heat is still intense, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers remains very important. For those ornamental plant species that prefer cool conditions, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel,' rubber tree, areca palm, Philodendron 'Green Giant,' Syngonium, Calathea species, red (green) gem, bamboo palm, pothos, Philodendron 'Green Emperor,' Philodendron 'Green Queen,' orchid species, pink-striped Aucuba, Peperomia, Bromeliaceae, Adina pilulifera, mirror grass, ferns, Buddha belly bamboo, phoenix-tail bamboo, spider plant, Reineckea carnea, pocket coconut, Fittonia, purple velvet plant, blood leaf orchid, silver-veined Aglaonema, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, Begonia species, lucky bamboo, Aspidistra, asparagus fern, purple hosta, and so on, shade frames can continue to be provided. Pull the shade net at 9 a.m. and remove it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue pinching or pruning vigorously growing, pruning-tolerant, and easily sprouting tree stump bonsai, such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot bonsai, Fujian tea, banyan, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, boxleaf euonymus, and so on. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, and so on, shorten the branches after each flowering. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and bud thinning?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control should be carried out against pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail, rose sawfly, peach red-necked longhorn beetle, and so on. Attention should be paid to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, leaf blight, and so on. Attention should be paid to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leafminers, stem borers, and so on.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry, hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or long placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as black pine, Pinus parviflora 'Nishiki,' five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese apricot bonsai, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, boxleaf euonymus, Platycladus orientalis stump, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, oak, Fraxinus chinensis, Fujian tea, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, Lantana camara, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, trident maple, Podocarpus, and so on. In August, some flower trees on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, South American cycad, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, Philodendron 'Green Giant,' red (green) gem, Calathea, areca palm, king coconut, Philodendron 'Little Angel,' Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, pothos, bamboo palm, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, golden shrimp plant, Brazilian wood, Japanese aralia, and so on.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, large-diameter flower pots can be used, covered with plastic film, and some ornamental plants can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings. The cutting substrate can be rice husk ash mixed with fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera, golden-spotted Aucuba, Begonia maculata, gardenia, golden shrimp plant, coral flower, daily fragrant osmanthus, Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline, jasmine, Guangdong evergreen, silver-veined Aglaonema, camellia, sasanqua, banana shrub, and so on. For the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Some ornamental plants can also be water-propagated indoors, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera, Aucuba, fig, Cordyline, plumeria, Pelargonium, Guangdong evergreen, fuchsia, and so on.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying of balcony potted flowers should be careful and cautious. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the needs of most ornamental plants that prefer a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, bricks can be used to build a simple sand bed, with 10 cm thick wet sand placed inside, and then some potted flowers that prefer moisture can be placed on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra, Philodendron 'Little Angel,' camellia, sasanqua, Syngonium, spring orchid, Jianlan orchid, Bromeliaceae, red (green) gem, Chloranthus spicatus, and so on. Usually, spraying instead of watering is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For Cymbidium, tiger-head orchid, Oncidium, Cattleya, fuchsia, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, and so on, they can be moved to air-conditioned rooms, using spraying instead of watering to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Chinese elm, Japanese apricot bonsai, boxleaf euonymus, trident maple, black pine, Pinus parviflora 'Nishiki,' wisteria, Fujian tea, Adina rubella, agave, sago palm, and so on, water can be given 1 to 2 times a day and sprayed 1 to 2 times a day.
2. Fertilizing. In August, fertilization should be stopped for balcony potted plants in dormant and semi-dormant states. For vigorously growing foliage plants, 0.3% urea solution can be sprayed or applied, or multi-element compound fertilizer granules can be spread on the pot surface. For flower trees mainly grown for flowers and fruit, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, Pyracantha, finger citron, kumquat, and so on, quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should continue to be applied. For Chinese elm, Japanese apricot bonsai, Ilex cornuta, holly, Podocarpus, Fujian tea, trident maple, Adina rubella, boxleaf euonymus, and so on, after each pruning, a thin fertilizer can be applied once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, especially shallow-pot stump bonsai, such as five-needle pine, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, Fujian tea, plum, trident maple, and so on, soft grass, moss, or wet cloth can be placed over the pot surface, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and also protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, shade netting can be used to block light. If there are not many potted flowers on the balcony and they are relatively precious, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot bonsai, Serissa, Fraxinus chinensis, oak, small bayberry, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, small-leaf privet, boxleaf euonymus, Pyracantha, and so on, pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For spent flowers, withered stalks, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to occur on the balcony, and 25% Pyridaben wettable powder at 1500 times dilution should be sprayed promptly to kill them. For a small number of scale insects appearing on flower trees, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, 90% trichlorfon crystal at 1000 times dilution should be used for spraying and killing.

Flower Planting Handbook (September volume)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
In September, temperatures in most parts of China gradually decline, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display. Among the woody ornamental plant species are: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden pine, lacebark pine, Japanese fir, Podocarpus, Podocarpus nagi, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian cycad, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus variegata, Chinese hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron, croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, Schefflera, bamboo palm, plumeria, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Japanese aralia, golden-spotted Aucuba, ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm tree, Chinese rose, fish-tail palm, areca palm, king coconut, Cordyline, beautiful phoenix palm, fiddle-leaf fig, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera, fukugi (Clusiaceae), large Buddha belly bamboo, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, orange jasmine, pandanus tree, Nandina, and so on. Herbaceous flowers include: large-flowered canna, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, Begonia maculata, marigold, five-color pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, dragon's mouth flower, and so on.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, banana shrub species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, horse chestnut species, summer wintersweet, Canary Island date palm, and so on. Among them, horse chestnut seeds can be sown in furrows, and when sowing, the seed hilum should face downward, and the covering soil should not be too deep, preferably 2 to 2.5 cm, with plastic film or straw added to retain moisture. Summer wintersweet seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and seedlings can emerge in about 2 weeks after sowing. Except that summer wintersweet can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, all the other species must be stored in wet sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, dianthus, tall catchfly, dwarf catchfly, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, pot marigold, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, and so on. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primrose, globe flower, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic tunnel.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice husk ash as the cutting substrate, woody flower species that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: Pyracantha, Mahonia, banana shrub, bougainvillea, Weigela florida, golden-spotted Aucuba, fuchsia, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, weigela, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, golden-veined Justicia, coral flower, rubber tree, Schefflera, Cordyline, and so on. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowers that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, purple magnolia, Hypericum, Spiraea, pomegranate, rose of Sharon, crape myrtle, snow spray, hydrangea, French holly, golden-edge privet, red-leaf barberry, Nandina, fig, oleander, Serissa, gardenia, Japanese aralia, Chaenomeles speciosa, tree peony, and so on. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum, and so on.
3. Grafting. The following flower trees can be propagated by grafting: use peony root sections as rootstock and graft superior varieties of tree peony; use seedlings of hairy peach, apricot, and so on as rootstocks and bud graft elm-leaved spirea, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, plum, and so on; use green maple seedlings as rootstock and bag-moistened cleft graft red maple, feather maple, and so on; use Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock and bud graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata and Magnolia soulangeana; use potted purple magnolia as rootstock and cleft graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as rootstock and bud graft kumquat, and so on; use fringe tree as rootstock and cleft graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock and cleft graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flower tree species that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, weigela, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia, osmanthus, purple magnolia, jasmine, banana shrub, camellia, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, snow spray, Spiraea, and so on.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be divided include: spring orchid, cymbidium, Jianlan orchid, peony, tree peony, Guangdong evergreen, purple triangular wood sorrel, Rudbeckia, sansevieria, Philodendron 'Little Angel,' multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor,' silver-veined Aglaonema, sword fern, Nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, purple magnolia, silver-striped lilyturf, Aspidistra, large-leaf liriope, and so on. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, Mediterranean bellflower, and so on can also have their daughter bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of courtyard field-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there is a special need, flower trees are generally not transplanted in the courtyard. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out on the premise of good root balls. Species such as: oleander, dragon juniper, banana shrub, Shu juniper, osmanthus, camellia, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, boxwood species, Hypericum, French holly, red-flowered Loropetalum, golden-spotted Aucuba, and so on. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and strengthening watering, spraying, and shading management, so as to ensure that transplanting is absolutely safe. Some herbaceous flowers can still be field-planted or potted up for viewing in golden autumn October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, and so on.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning the vigorously growing, strongly sprouting courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants. This is also the last pruning of the year for ball-shaped plants in northern regions during the growing season. Courtyard hedges and color-block tree species suitable for pruning mainly include: boxwood species, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, privet, small-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, golden-edge thousand-head Platycladus orientalis, and so on. Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning include: dragon juniper, Shu juniper, boxwood, bayberry, Ilex cornuta, holly, Photinia, Pittosporum, Pyracantha, Forsythia, and so on. Field-planted herbaceous flowers that can be top-pruned and pinched include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, Kochia scoparia, marigold, French marigold, and so on. It is advisable to pinch once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and produce more inflorescences on lateral shoots. Stop pinching after late September. For field-planted woody flowers that bloom continuously for a long time, such as variety Chinese rose, floribunda rose, miniature rose, climbing Chinese rose, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Lantana camara, bougainvillea, and so on, spent flowers and withered stalks should be cut off promptly, and the branches that have already bloomed should be properly shortened, which can effectively promote reblooming.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job in watering and spraying management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival effect. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw ropes wrapped around the tree trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunks; third, spray water on the tree crowns to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers over time, a good job of spraying to retain moisture should also be done.
4. Fertilizing. For field-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, red-flowered Loropetalum, shell ginger, croton, golden-spotted Aucuba, red mulberry, red-leaf dwarf cherry, red-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, and so on, in order to keep their leaf color bright at all times, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be appropriately applied. For field-planted flower trees that bloom continuously or are viewed for flowers and fruit in autumn, such as crape myrtle, Chinese rose, daily fragrant osmanthus, four-season tangerine, flowering pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, Lantana camara, Nandina, Pyracantha, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, and so on, as well as a large number of field-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium should be applied. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, orange osmanthus, and so on that are blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth damaging crape myrtle, Pyracantha, Malus, and so on, 90% trichlorfon crystal at 800 times dilution can be sprayed for control; for the star longhorn beetle damaging crape myrtle, papaya, Malus, poisoned sticks can be inserted from the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on Chinese rose and chrysanthemum plants, 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 1000 times dilution can be used in the early stage of the disease for control.
6. Seed collection. Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected are mainly flower trees of the Magnoliaceae family. Such as Magnolia sieboldii, banana shrub, purple magnolia, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia yunshanensis, Michelia chapensis, Michelia floribunda, Michelia maudiae, Magnolia grandiflora, and so on. In addition, there are horse chestnut species, crape myrtle, lilac, Malus species, redbud, Exochorda racemosa, Taxus chinensis, bright-leaf wintersweet, and so on. Magnoliaceae, as well as Taxus chinensis, horse chestnut species, Malus species, and so on, after seed treatment, must all be stored in wet sand until early spring of the following year, and sown in the ground after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, impatiens, four o'clock flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, China aster, and so on. After collection, thresh promptly and dry-store until the following spring before sowing.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is strong, the temperature is high, and the air is quite dry, so watering management for potted flowers must not be neglected. As for watering frequency, for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water or spray once in the morning and once in the afternoon; in the second half of the month change to watering once, with appropriate misting of the leaves. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves. Water before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that prefer acidic conditions, add a small amount of 0.1% light-green ferrous sulfate powder to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or misting). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil around the plants once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is precisely the period of vigorous growth for most flowers. Some flower species that were dormant or semi-dormant in summer begin to resume growth as the temperature gradually cools, so fertilizing management should be highly valued this month. For foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Dracaena fragrans, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (Dragon and Phoenix Tree), Araucaria heterophylla, Caryota urens, Epipremnum aureum, Red (Green) Gem, Green Emperor, Aglaonema Silver Queen, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, Ficus lyrata, etc., still mainly use low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution. For flowering trees and shrubs with a very long flowering period or whose peak flowering season is autumn, such as Rosa chinensis, Lantana camara, Lantana montevidensis, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans, etc., fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Nandina domestica, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Diospyros armata, Callicarpa species, fruiting Punica granatum, etc., and colorful-leaf plants such as Codiaeum variegatum, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Bromeliaceae species, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Cordyline fruticosa, Coleus scutellarioides, etc., apply fertilizers with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For Fuchsia hybrida, Pelargonium hortorum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Begonia semperflorens, Daphne odora, Schlumbergera truncata, Sedum species, Portulacaria afra (Jade Leaf), Oxalis triangularis, Clivia miniata, Epiphyllum hybridum, etc., that are resuming growth, resume applying low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud enlargement stage, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Michelia figo, Rhododendron species, etc., apply low-concentration fertilizers with balanced nutrients; for potted herbaceous flowers, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Chrysanthemum morifolium, Callistephus chinensis, Dahlia pinnata, dwarf Helianthus annuus, etc., apply a light fertilizer once every 10 days to meet their needs for budding and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, the temperature is high and the sunlight is still intense, so shading management for courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Monstera deliciosa, Ficus elastica, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Nephrolepis exaltata, Asplenium nidus, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, Epipremnum aureum, Rhapis excelsa, Green Emperor, Aglaonema Silver Queen, Cymbidium species, Dieffenbachia seguine, Syagrus romanzoffiana, Aspidistra elatior, Begonia species, Epipremnum pinnatum, Philodendron xanadu, Red (Green) Gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Odontonema strictum, Asparagus setaceus, Schefflera octophylla, Pteris cretica 'Albolineata', Peperomia argyreia, Dieffenbachia amoena, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Anthurium andraeanum, Platycerium bifurcatum, Pilea peperomioides, Adina pilulifera, Philodendron 'Imperial', Dracaena sanderiana, etc., provide 5 to 6 hours of light per day through shading; for light-loving species, such as Acer buergerianum, Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Ginkgo biloba, Adina rubella, Pinus thunbergii, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai), Sabina chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Araucaria heterophylla, Wisteria sinensis, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Pyracantha fortuneana, Rosa chinensis, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc., full sunlight can be given; for semi-shade-loving species, such as Podocarpus macrophyllus, Pinus parviflora, Damnacanthus indicus, Syzygium buxifolium, Loropetalum chinense, Epiphyllum oxypetalum, Nandina domestica, Crassula ovata, Rhododendron species, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Fortunella margarita, etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. For newly transplanted and potted autumn herbaceous flowers, appropriate shading should also be given to prevent the plants from wilting and affecting their recovery growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue to do well the work of bud removal and bud thinning; for Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum var. pleniflora, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Lantana camara, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthus species, etc., prune after each flowering; for those bonsai tree species that tolerate pruning, sprout easily, and grow vigorously, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Syzygium buxifolium, Ligustrum sinense, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai), Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii, Fraxinus hupehensis, Tamarix chinensis, etc., continue to prune or pinch out buds. In addition, for Pachira aquatica seedlings, you can braid them into a "braid" and pot them up.
5. Pest and disease control. For the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on potted Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, Prunus persica 'Dushu', Prunus persica 'Duplex', etc., insert poisonous sticks to block and kill them, or control them by burying carbofuran granules. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felt scale, etc., appearing on potted flowering trees, use 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or potted flowering trees with relatively strong resistance can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora 'Zuisho', Pinus densiflora, Pinus parviflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Acer buergerianum, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, fruiting Punica granatum, Buxus sinica, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai), Sabina chinensis, Carmona retusa, Fraxinus hupehensis, Ficus microcarpa, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Rosa chinensis, Agave americana, Ginkgo biloba, Aglaia odorata, Jasminum sambac, Celtis sinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Hemiptelea davidii, Serissa japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, etc. For some flower species that prefer a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium hybridum, Oncidium species, Dendrobium species, Cattleya species, Vanda species, Hymenocallis species, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, Anthurium andraeanum, Clivia miniata, Fuchsia hybrida, Fittonia verschaffeltii, etc.; while for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota urens, Roystonea regia, Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera octophylla, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony you can continue to use large-caliber flower pots as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of rice hull ash and wet sand each accounting for 1/2, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and can cutting-propagate some ornamental plants, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Cordyline fruticosa, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Schefflera octophylla, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Cyrtanthus species, Pachystachys lutea, Michelia figo, Aglaonema commutatum, etc. You can also water-propagate indoors Schefflera octophylla, Rosa chinensis, Gardenia jasminoides, Ficus carica, Aglaonema modestum, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some ornamental plants that prefer moisture, such as Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidum ensifolium, Cymbidium faberi, Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Philodendron xanadu, Chloranthus spicatus, Bromeliaceae species, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats set over a balcony water pool or water tank, or placed in a simple self-built sand pool, and ordinarily misting replaces watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, mist more and water less, so as to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, mist at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even a relatively drought-tolerant Pinus parviflora bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For potted ornamental plants with relatively strong resistance placed on the balcony, you can continue to water once a day and mist 1 to 2 times, or use the soaking-pot method to prevent the phenomenon of the potting soil being wet on top and dry below. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, pay attention that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light-green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, also appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer; for vigorously growing potted bonsai trees, after each pinching and pruning, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once; for potted flowering trees mainly for viewing flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba, Rosa chinensis, Punica granatum, Lagerstroemia indica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizers; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Osmanthus fragrans, Chrysanthemum morifolium, etc., according to different species, apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium compound fertilizer. The types of fertilizer applied to flowers and trees on the balcony should not carry an unusual odor, especially not a foul smell, and when applying, be careful not to splash down to the floor below and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For bonsai trees and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutritional fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when there are not many potted flowers, move them indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull up shade netting to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for bonsai trees placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai), Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Ligustrum sinense, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted flowering trees, dead branches and yellow leaves, and faded flowers and stems should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted flowering trees are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed and killed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder at 1500 times dilution; for the double-striped cedar longhorn beetle appearing on Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Sabina chinensis, and Juniperus rigida bonsai, and the peach red-necked longhorn beetle appearing on Prunus mume, Malus spectabilis, Chaenomeles sinensis, Prunus persica 'Dushu', etc., continue to insert poisonous sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming Camellia japonica, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lagerstroemia indica, Chimonanthus praecox, etc., when the number is small they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray 40% Supracide at 1500 times dilution for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with monthly average temperatures between 10°C and 19°C. This month there are many kinds of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Araucaria heterophylla, Pinus parviflora, Sciadopitys verticillata, Pinus bungeana, Abies firma, Picea species, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Cycas revoluta, Phoenix canariensis, Cordyline australis, Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum kotoense, Osmanthus fragrans, Hibiscus mutabilis, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pseudolarix amabilis, Codiaeum variegatum, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Rhapis excelsa, Beaucarnea recurvata, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Ficus pandurata, Caryota urens, Dypsis lutescens, Roystonea regia, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, Adenium obesum, Dioon edule, Garcinia subelliptica, Bambusa ventricosa, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Grevillea robusta, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Murraya paniculata, Nandina domestica, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Salvia splendens, Canna generalis, Dahlia pinnata, Callistephus chinensis, Chrysanthemum morifolium, small chrysanthemums, Begonia maculata, Antirrhinum majus, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Capsicum annuum, Celosia argentea, Calendula officinalis, Catharanthus roseus, Gomphrena globosa, Petunia hybrida, Impatiens hawkeri, etc. It should be noted that in North China, Northeast China, and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flower species planted in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: Paeonia suffruticosa, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Calycanthus chinensis, Ardisia crenata, Sapindus mukorossi, Ilex kudingcha, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Viburnum rhytidophyllum, Elaeocarpus decipiens, Phoenix roebelenii, Taxus chinensis, Livistona chinensis, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Cinnamomum camphora, Weigela florida, Trachycarpus fortunei, Taxodium distichum, etc. Among them, when sowing Aesculus species, the hilum should face downward, and before sowing Calycanthus chinensis, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except that the seeds of Calycanthus chinensis and Weigela florida can be dry-stored until the following spring for sowing, the other species can, after the seeds are cleaned, be stored with wet sand to promote germination until the following spring when the seeds crack and show white, and then sown. Note that before storage and germination promotion, the seeds must be rinsed clean; the moisture content of the sand is suitable when it forms a ball in the hand and disperses when released, and the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During the storage and germination promotion process, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Papaver rhoeas, Calendula officinalis, Antirrhinum majus, Dianthus species, Viola tricolor, Parthenocissus tricuspidata, Belamcanda chinensis, Silene pendula, Silene armeria, Eschscholzia californica, Bellis perennis, Rudbeckia hirta, Iris tectorum, Verbena hybrida, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Petunia hybrida, Pericallis hybrida, Primula obconica, Gerbera jamesonii, Calceolaria herbeohybrida can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cutting. Woody flower species that can be cutting-propagated include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Schefflera octophylla, Cestrum nocturnum, Lantana camara, Pyracantha fortuneana, Mahonia species, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Cordyline fruticosa, Michelia figo, Aucuba japonica, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Gardenia jasminoides, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hypericum monogynum, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Rosa chinensis, Viburnum macrocephalum, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Nerium oleander, Ficus carica, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc. The cutting substrate can use ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half rice hull ash, using fully enclosed moisture-retaining cutting. In addition, for cutting some southern flowering trees, when the Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to doing a good job of cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be cutting-propagated include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Tagetes erecta, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia maculata, Tradescantia zebrina, Epipremnum aureum, Pilea cadierei, Cyrtanthus species, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Odontonema strictum, Chrysanthemum morifolium, etc. Those that can be cutting-propagated (this part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old Pinus thunbergii seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft Pinus parviflora (including Pinus parviflora 'Osaka') and Pinus parviflora 'Zuisho' with moisture retention; use peony roots as rootstock to graft fine varieties of Paeonia suffruticosa; use one-year-old Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' with moisture retention; use one-year-old Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft fine varieties of Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Magnolia liliflora, etc.; use three-ribbed cactus as rootstock to graft various cactus ball types; use one-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft Fortunella margarita.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be low-layered include: Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Weigela florida, Hydrangea macrophylla, Weigela florida, Chaenomeles speciosa, Osmanthus fragrans 'Bayuegui', Viburnum macrocephalum 'Sterile', Viburnum macrocephalum, Magnolia denudata, Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Viburnum rhytidophyllum, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Michelia figo, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be divided include: Nandina domestica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia fortunei, Paeonia suffruticosa, Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora', Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea species, Cycas revoluta, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be divided include: Paeonia lactiflora, Hosta plantaginea, Cymbidium goeringii, Hosta ventricosa, Strelitzia reginae, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Ranunculus asiaticus, Rudbeckia laciniata, Iris tectorum, Belamcanda chinensis, Convallaria majalis, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema commutatum, Oxalis triangularis, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aspidistra elatior, etc. Flower species that can be divided by bulbs include: Zantedeschia aethiopica, Hippeastrum rutilum, Freesia refracta, Lycoris radiata, Tulipa gesneriana, Scilla peruviana, etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after the Frost's Descent arrives and the leaves fall, such as Hibiscus syriacus, Cercis chinensis, Amygdalus triloba, Punica granatum, Syringa oblata, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Magnolia denudata, Prunus persica 'Duplex', Prunus persica 'Dushu', Rosa hybrida, Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, Nandina domestica, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Gardenia jasminoides, Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, etc., when transplanting, first, reduce-prune before transplanting; second, carry a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted out include: Dianthus chinensis, Bellis perennis, Alcea rosea, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, Viola tricolor, Calendula officinalis, Verbena hybrida, Phlox drummondii, Antirrhinum majus, Zephyranthes candida, Ophiopogon japonicus, Reineckea carnea, etc. Bulb flower species that can be ground-planted include: Narcissus tazetta, Narcissus poeticus, Tulipa gesneriana, Hyacinthus orientalis, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and thoroughness, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines, and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, Platycladus orientalis 'Aurea', Euonymus japonicus 'Aureus', Euonymus japonicus, Buxus sinica, Viburnum rhytidophyllum, Ligustrum lucidum, Photinia davidsoniae, Ligustrum sinense, etc. Ball-shaped plants needing pruning include: Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Buxus sinica, Myrica rubra, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Photinia serratifolia, Pittosporum tobira, Pyracantha fortuneana, etc. For ground-planted flowering trees in the courtyard that bloom continuously, such as Rosa chinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Lantana camara, Bougainvillea spectabilis, etc., continue to cut off faded flowers and stems, and moderately reduce-prune the branches that have flowered. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as Salvia splendens, Tagetes erecta, Gomphrena globosa, etc., promptly cut off the open inflorescences to promote the side shoots to continue producing buds and flowering, thereby extending the viewing period.

    3. Watering. For courtyard flowering trees newly planted this year, continue to do well the work of watering and misting: first, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no water accumulation; second, continue to mist the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do well the work of misting to retain moisture.

    4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, apply quick-acting fertilizer with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium; for Osmanthus species that have already flowered, open ring-shaped trenches and bury basal fertilizer; for Rosa chinensis, Malus spectabilis, Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus mutabilis, and Camellia japonica, Michelia figo, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, etc. that have been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for Nandina domestica, Pyracantha fortuneana, and southern Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Fortunella margarita, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Diospyros armata, etc. that are in the fruit-viewing state, appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can effectively extend the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted Prunus mume, Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus serrulata, Malus spectabilis, etc., continue to use poisonous sticks for control. For fallen dead branches and leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up, gather them, and burn them. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collection. Woody plant species whose seeds can be collected include: Podocarpus macrophyllus, Nageia nagi, Sapindus mukorossi, Aesculus species, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia denudata, Manglietia species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia amoena, Michelia champaca, Michelia foveolata, Michelia maudiae, Manglietia insignis, Michelia platypetala, Taxodium distichum, Rhapis excelsa, Ardisia crenata, Phoenix roebelenii, Livistona chinensis, Ilex kudingcha, Viburnum rhytidophyllum, Cinnamomum camphora, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Viburnum macrocephalum, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Cycas revoluta, Ginkgo biloba, Taxus chinensis, Camellia oleifera, etc. These seeds must all be stored with wet sand. Seed species that can be dry-stored include: Lagerstroemia indica, Liriodendron chinense, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Acer palmatum, Pseudolarix amabilis, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Cryptomeria japonica, Sapium sebiferum, Albizia julibrissin, Koelreuteria paniculata, Hibiscus mutabilis, Choerospondias axillaris, Cercis chinensis, Camptotheca acuminata, Bischofia polycarpa, Acer truncatum, etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: Salvia splendens, Celosia argentea, Zinnia elegans, Gomphrena globosa, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes erecta, Tagetes patula, Callistephus chinensis, Impatiens balsamina, Mirabilis jalapa, Kochia scoparia, Helichrysum bracteatum, Cosmos bipinnatus, Cerastium tomentosum, Euphorbia cyathophora, Mimosa pudica, Desmodium gyrans, etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for Canna indica, Dahlia pinnata, etc., when their aboveground parts are close to withering, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keeping the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and in the following spring cut and divide them for planting.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cool, in most areas south of the Huaihe River the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as Ficus elastica, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, Epipremnum aureum, Syngonium podophyllum, Fagraea fragrans, Cinnamomum kotoense, Philodendron 'Imperial Green', Red Gem, etc., on sunny days water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species, such as Zantedeschia aethiopica, Cyclamen persicum, Clivia miniata, Portulacaria afra, Daphne odora, Pelargonium hortorum, Fuchsia hybrida, etc., increase the amount of watering. For Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, control watering and mist more, to facilitate the enlargement of their flower buds. In northern regions, for flower species relatively sensitive to cold, reduce watering, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots, helping them survive the winter safely. The best watering time is at 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after the autumn cool, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer; for Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, Primula malacoides, Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Cymbidium sinense, Rhododendron hybridum, Narcissus poeticus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixed liquid of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer, thereby increasing the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus limon, Fortunella margarita, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Ardisia crenata, Diospyros armata, etc., in early to mid-October a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied.

    3. Shading. For some extremely shade-loving foliage plant species, such as Dieffenbachia seguine, Monstera deliciosa, Calathea species, Syngonium podophyllum, Philodendron 'Emerald Gem', Nephrolepis exaltata, Peperomia species, etc., around noon for 2 to 3 hours, shading is still needed.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first cut off their dead branches and fallen leaves, pest-damaged branches, weak branches, etc.; for leggy branches, carry out strong reduction pruning; for binding materials that have shaped the plant for 1 to 2 years, they can be untied, or after untiing, retied again, to prevent long-term binding at a fixed position from injuring the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species not tolerant of low temperatures below 10°C can be promptly moved into greenhouses; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or bonsai trees, at the end of the month they can be buried and planted in wind-sheltered, sunny soil to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin, accurately grasp weather change information and avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted flowering trees, collect them uniformly, and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control aphids, chrysanthemum beetle, leaf-miner larvae, inchworms, and other pests.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October on the balcony, there is still strong light and dry air. Only those potted flowering trees that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have relatively strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus parviflora 'Zuisho', Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Fraxinus hupehensis, Carmona retusa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Buxus sinica, Punica granatum, Bougainvillea spectabilis, Ficus pandurata, Ginkgo biloba, Rosa chinensis, Jasminum sambac, Aglaia odorata, Cycas revoluta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Lantana camara, Tamarix chinensis, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', etc. For some cold-intolerant southern flowering tree species, when the temperature drops to 10°C, they can no longer continue to be placed on the balcony. For some flower species that prefer a cooler environment, they can be placed in ordinary indoor spaces at the beginning of the month. Such as Cymbidium hybridum, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia verschaffeltii, Cattleya species, Phalaenopsis species, Oncidium species, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and at other times can be placed on the balcony, such as Rhapis excelsa, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Epipremnum aureum, Aspidistra elatior, Dypsis lutescens, Caryota urens, Roystonea regia, Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', Schefflera octophylla, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of flowering trees can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, you can continue to use wide-mouthed large flower pots as cutting containers on the balcony, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of rice hull ash and wet sand each accounting for 1/2, or use vermiculite alone as the cutting substrate, cover with plastic film to retain moisture, and cutting-propagate a small number of ornamental plants, such as Gardenia jasminoides, Schefflera octophylla, Ficus elastica, Aucuba japonica, Michelia figo, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema modestum, Cyrtanthus species, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Aglaonema commutatum, Epipremnum aureum, Pelargonium hortorum, etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as Cycas revoluta, Ficus microcarpa, Ficus elastica, Schefflera octophylla, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira aquatica, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, etc., water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron hybridum, etc., watering should not be excessive, and at the same time mist the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the enlargement of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Philodendron xanadu, Aspidistra elatior, Cordyline fruticosa, Asplenium nidus, Anthurium andraeanum, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, Calathea species, Epipremnum aureum, etc., all should mainly mist and secondarily water, so as to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as Clivia miniata, Cyclamen persicum, Zantedeschia aethiopica, as well as Cymbidium hybridum, Bromeliaceae species, Cymbidium sinense, etc., apply a mixed liquid of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for fruit-viewing plants such as Citrus aurantium var. amara, Fortunella margarita, Fortunella hindsii, Citrus limon, Nandina domestica, Diospyros armata, Ardisia crenata, Pyracantha fortuneana, Solanum pseudocapsicum, etc., continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; for Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Jasminum sambac, etc., in early October apply 1 to 2 times dilute phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, to help them pass the winter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for bonsai trees and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the amount of watering, protect the nutritional fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet straw, moss, wet cloth, etc., especially for shallow-pot bonsai trees, more attention should be paid. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on fine days around noon for 3 to 4 hours, they can be moved indoors. The shade netting set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for bonsai trees placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Platycladus orientalis (bonsai), Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus chinensis 'Kaizuca', Ligustrum lucidum, Fraxinus hupehensis, etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, first untie them; if the shaping requirement has not yet been met, change to a new binding position and bind and fix again, which can avoid overly deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. For ordinary potted flowering trees, such as Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, the dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For bonsai trees whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, apply lime sulfur mixture to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November chapter)

    Weather characteristics of November: this month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Start of Winter, the beginning of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Light Snow, the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to have snowfall, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should value two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowering trees, whitewashing trunks and removing pests, turning the soil and applying basal fertilizer; second, for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic greenhouses, effectively do a good job of cold protection and freeze protection. This month's flower management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: Tropaeolum majus, Sinningia speciosa, Begonia tuberhybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Gerbera jamesonii, Clivia miniata, Asparagus setaceus, Hosta plantaginea, etc.

    Flowering tree species that can be sown as collected in November include: Spiraea cantoniensis, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina virginiana, Nageia nagi, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sapindus mukorossi, Ardisia crenata, Trachycarpus fortunei, Viburnum rhytidophyllum, Photinia serratifolia, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cutting. In November, open-field cutting can be carried out, but plastic film mulching must be added. Flowering tree species for heat preservation and cold protection mainly include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume (referring to varieties such as 'Lüe' and 'Gongfen'), Rosa chinensis (referring to easy-to-root varieties such as Rosa hybrida and 'Elizabeth'), Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

    Flowering tree species that can be root-cutting propagated in November include: Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Malus halliana, Chaenomeles speciosa, Ilex cornuta, Ilex chinensis, Campsis grandiflora, Ulmus parvifolia, Serissa japonica, etc. Some of these root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Flowering trees that can be densely cutting-propagated in greenhouses or plastic greenhouses in November include: Buxus sinica, Buxus bodinieri, Euonymus japonicus, Euonymus japonicus 'Albomarginatus', Pilea cadierei, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Gardenia jasminoides, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum beanii, Mahonia species, Serissa japonica 'Aureum', etc. If managed properly, complete roots can grow by the following spring, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening forms. In winter, in greenhouses you can also cutting-propagate Begonia maculata, Begonia rex, Begonia nelumbiifolia, Pelargonium hortorum, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia hybrida, Crassula ovata, Portulacaria afra, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, etc., and after spring begins they can be used for potting and cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, you can also cut and store cuttings of Hibiscus mutabilis, Campsis grandiflora, Vitis vinifera, etc., to be cutting-propagated in the following spring, which can noticeably speed up their rooting and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Use Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum' and Acer palmatum 'Dissectum' indoors; use apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cleft-graft Prunus mume (bury the graft union in soil to overwinter); use the thick branches of Rosa chinensis ('Elizabeth' variety) as rootstock and scion wood, and use branches of fine Rosa chinensis varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cutting, so that the graft union heals and the lower cut roots at the same time, which can speed up the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of fine Rosa chinensis varieties.

    4. Layering. Flowering tree species that can be low-layered in November mainly include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Gardenia jasminoides, Gardenia jasminoides 'Radicans', Punica granatum, Camellia japonica, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Weigela florida, Osmanthus fragrans, Hydrangea macrophylla, Magnolia denudata, Calocedrus macrolepis, Michelia figo, Spiraea cantoniensis, Viburnum macrocephalum 'Sterile', Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be divided and propagated in November include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum beanii, Mahonia species, Buddleja lindleyana, Paeonia suffruticosa, Caragana sinica, Jasminum nudiflorum, Forsythia viridissima, Jasminum officinale, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus spicatus, Bambusa multiplex, Bambusa multiplex 'Fernleaf', etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, you can dig up the underground rhizomes or tubers of Dahlia pinnata, Canna indica, and Canna generalis, store them in sand until March of the following spring, and then cut, divide, and plant them out.

Herbaceous flower species that can be divided and propagated include: Bletilla striata, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hosta plantaginea, Hosta ventricosa, Belamcanda chinensis, Iris tectorum, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Liriope platyphylla, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Rohdea japonica, Aspidistra elatior, Kalanchoe daigremontiana, etc.

    1. Seed collection. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: Salvia splendens, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia elegans, Callistephus chinensis, Tagetes patula, Tagetes erecta, Abelmoschus manihot, etc.

    Flowering tree species whose seeds can be collected in November for dry storage include: Pinus thunbergii, Pinus taiwanensis, Pinus parviflora, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chamaecyparis pisifera, Chamaecyparis obtusa, Albizia julibrissin, Liquidambar formosana, Camptotheca acuminata, Eucommia ulmoides, Cornus alba, Sapium sebiferum, Wisteria sinensis, Lagerstroemia indica, Caragana sinica, Spiraea cantoniensis. Flowering tree species that can be sown as collected or must be stored with wet sand include: Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Trachycarpus fortunei, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina virginiana, Sapindus mukorossi, Lycium chinense, Taxus chinensis, Magnolia grandiflora, Ilex chinensis, Ilex cornuta, Pyracantha fortuneana, Photinia serratifolia, Photinia davidsoniae, Rosa chinensis (used to cultivate rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be planted out in flower beds and transplanted for flower border arrangement in November include: Silene pendula, Dianthus chinensis, Alcea rosea, Malva sylvestris, Viola tricolor var. hortensis, Antirrhinum majus, Bellis perennis, Calendula officinalis, Brassica oleracea var. acephala, etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: Cinnamomum camphora, Magnolia grandiflora, Albizia julibrissin, Sapindus mukorossi, Ligustrum lucidum, Koelreuteria paniculata, Sapium sebiferum, Magnolia denudata, Osmanthus fragrans, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Prunus cerasifera 'Atropurpurea', Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Aesculus species, Tilia species, Cercis gigantea, Liriodendron chinense, Magnolia soulangeana, Chaenomeles sinensis, Malus spectabilis, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately reduced-pruned or shortened, and most leaves removed; the trunk should be bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball carried (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), only then can survival be ensured; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be shortened and large branches pruned, a soil ball carried, and the trunk bound well. After large tree transplanting, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened for survival. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent a large amount of water from evaporating from the tree body.

    In November, Prunus mume bonsai, Chimonanthus praecox, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, etc. can be transplanted and potted, and placed in plastic greenhouses to force flowering, to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted Hyacinthus orientalis, Tulipa gesneriana, Narcissus poeticus, etc. should be moved into plastic greenhouses to prompt them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic greenhouses, or rooms, the specific standard for how much to water in November is to keep the potting soil moist, and it must not be too wet; if the temperature is on the low side and watering is excessive, the plants easily rot at the roots and die. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, appropriately increase the amount of watering and give necessary leaf misting.

For those potted flower species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pericallis hybrida, etc., as well as fruit-viewing plants Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Pyracantha fortuneana, Nandina domestica, Solanum pseudocapsicum, Ardisia crenata, etc., not only keep the potting soil moist, but also must frequently mist the plants, to facilitate the enlargement and growth of the flower buds and also make the fruits appear more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic greenhouses, greenhouses, and rooms, not only keep the potting soil moist, but also frequently mist the leaves, so that they always remain verdant and glossy. In relatively warm greenhouses and rooms, increase the amount of watering. For foliage plants not very tolerant of cold, such as Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea species, Dieffenbachia seguine, Green Emperor, Codiaeum variegatum, Aglaonema Silver Queen, etc., control the amount of watering, to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    The watering time for potted flowers in November is best at 10 to 11 a.m., and it is required that the water temperature and soil temperature be basically consistent, so as to avoid adverse reactions in plants due to excessively low water temperature, thereby affecting their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors at temperatures above 15°C, species such as Rhododendron hybridum, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia brandegeeana, Daphne odora, Pericallis hybrida, Cyclamen persicum, Chaenomeles speciosa, Hyacinthus orientalis, Clivia miniata, Tulipa gesneriana, ornamental Bromeliaceae, Schlumbergera truncata, Vriesea species, etc., continue to apply low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; using 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate fertilizer liquid can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in ordinary plastic greenhouses, stop applying fertilizer, to help them normally overwinter in dormancy. For most ground-planted flowering trees, such as Malus species, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia species, Michelia chapensis, Michelia maudiae, Michelia figo, Michelia foveolata, Gardenia jasminoides, Aesculus species, Cinnamomum camphora, Spiraea species, Osmanthus fragrans, Vitis vinifera, Rosa chinensis, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus mume, Prunus serrulata, Sapindus mukorossi, Albizia julibrissin, Trachycarpus fortunei, Acer palmatum 'Atropurpureum', Paeonia suffruticosa, Forsythia viridissima, Paeonia lactiflora, Hypericum monogynum, etc., bury and apply dry cake fertilizer, with each plant using 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg; smaller plants can use less, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue to prune hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped forms that have not completed pruning; after pruning is completed, basal fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned, carry out all-around shaping and pruning, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Carmona retusa, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus hupehensis, Pyracantha fortuneana, Serissa japonica, Sabina chinensis, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Chimonanthus praecox, Malus spectabilis, etc., laying a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Rosa chinensis that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, except for retaining 3 to 5 1- to 2-year-old thick stems with 30 cm to 50 cm at the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base, and cut off all thin and weak branches; for unpruned ground-planted Lagerstroemia indica, carry out strong reduction pruning of the current-year branches. Except for retaining 20 cm to 30 cm at the base of a few thick branches, cut off all the remaining current-year branches, to help produce more thick new shoots next year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowering trees in flower beds, along roadsides, and in courtyards, such as Lagerstroemia indica, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus fragrans, Cinnamomum camphora, Platanus orientalis, Magnolia denudata, Forsythia viridissima, Prunus mume, Chimonanthus praecox, Prunus serrulata, Camellia japonica, Albizia julibrissin, Pyracantha fortuneana, Pittosporum tobira, Malus spectabilis, etc., cut off all those misshapen branches, weak branches, inner-canopy branches, pest-damaged branches, etc., and appropriately reduce-prune the leggy branches protruding from the crown. In addition, in November, you can also strip the bark from thick palm trees, do a good job of cleaning the trunks, and make them show their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flowering tree species not very sensitive to cold, such as Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron species, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nandina domestica, Araucaria heterophylla, Jasminum sambac, Michelia alba, Chloranthus spicatus, Aglaonema species, Citrus aurantium var. amara, Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, Citrus limon, Fortunella margarita, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera octophylla, Monstera deliciosa, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, Caryota urens, Ficus elastica, Pachira aquatica, Phoenix canariensis, Rhapis excelsa, etc., they can be placed in plastic greenhouses, as long as the room temperature is maintained at not lower than about 5°C.

For potted flower species that are not cold-tolerant, such as Calathea, pink-striped leaves, Syngonium, deep-lobed Philodendron, Aglaia, Croton, Pachystachys, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, red (green) gem, Giant Taro, Green Emperor, Silver Queen, Frangipani, Lucky Bamboo, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Cymbidium, they should be placed indoors at a room temperature not lower than 10°C, or protected through the winter in a double-layer plastic greenhouse.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowering trees, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple types, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, crape myrtle, boxwood, Sageretia, Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, cypress, Chinese juniper, trident maple, red maple, etc., they can be directly buried together with their pots in soil in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot; under conditions not lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur. If particularly cold weather occurs, a film cover and soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in greenhouses, conservatories, or rooms in November, besides ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation to prevent the plants from being stuffy indoors for long periods, which can cause flower drop, fruit drop, and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not enter the room, otherwise it can also easily cause leaf drop and fruit drop in plants. When ventilating, care should also be taken never to let the plants be directly hit by cold wind.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees prone to leaf diseases, such as grapes, crabapple types, roses, Chinese rose, camellia, and chrysanthemum, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of diseases the following year.

For street tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk style and split-trunk style stump bonsai, lime-sulfur mixture can be applied to the dead trunk and split trunk parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep rot in the xylem of the stump.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. appearing on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or plastic tunnels (they may occur on bitter orange, Buddha's hand, sago palm, orchids, camellia, clivia, and Aspidistra), first, wipe them off with a damp cloth; second, spray and kill them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia, Aglaia, bitter orange, and Chinese rose), spray tobacco water for control.

For Western azaleas placed in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizer such as Yemianbao, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    The main types of bonsai plants suitable for shaping in November are: Buddhist pine, cypress, Chinese juniper, velvet cypress, prostrate juniper, Euonymus pendulus, Serissa, plum blossom, winter hazel, oak, holly osmanthus, holly, boxwood, pearl boxwood, Chinese elm, Hall crabapple, etc.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and hung with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when relatively deep constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be tied and adjusted again.

For new tree stumps such as Chinese elm, Sageretia, bougainvillea, water willow, firethorn, and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk cutting, and branch pruning, plant them in sandy loam fields using the shallow burial and high mounding method, and shape them after they sprout branches the following year.

For tree stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of cultivation and shaping, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots, and branches, suitable pots can be selected for repotting, and matched with scholar's rocks and dotted with moss, so they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

For well-shaped tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, Hall crabapple, etc., in November, suitable pots can be selected for potting, and water management can be strengthened, so they can be used the following spring for display in squares, parks, and grand auditoriums.

Flower Planting Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most parts of our country enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south in our country, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent heavy frost. This month, flower and tree maintenance should pay attention to three aspects of work: first, do a good job in heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees that have entered greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms; second, do a good job in pruning, cleaning, and land turning and fertilizing for open-field flowers and trees; third, do a good job in preparing composted organic fertilizer and mixing culture soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: Gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, African daisy, etc.; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors as collected or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as Elizabeth), nandina, Ardisia crenata, holly types, firethorn, palm, privet, camphor tree, small-leaf privet, soapberry, photinia, and Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. Woody ornamental flowering trees that can be propagated by open-field cuttings in December include: plum blossom (mainly varieties such as Gongfen and Green Calyx); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root varieties such as Elizabeth, floribunda rose, and miniature rose); red-leaf plum, wintersweet (cutting with heel), spiraea, boxwood types, etc. Among them, plum blossom and red-leaf plum cuttings should preferably use yellow subsoil; Chinese rose cuttings should preferably use a mixed substrate of rice hull ash and fine sand at 2:1; other types can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film for heat and moisture retention.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be taken of hibiscus, geranium, Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, gem flower, Echeveria, purslane tree, Bryophyllum, kalanchoe, Pachystachys, shrimp plant, wax begonia, cane begonia, Rieger begonia, chloranthus, jasmine, Clerodendrum, Lantana, Schefflera, Daphne, pothos, Cordyline, etc. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be taken to propagate gardenia, golden-center (golden-edge) boxwood, Mahonia, Hypericum, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, arhat cypress, Serissa, firethorn, silver bud willow, and Triarrhena, etc. In addition, branches of trumpet creeper, lilac, grape, etc. can be cut and stored in sand, to be cut again the following spring.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum blossom varieties, such as Guhong and Cinnabar, can be grafted in December using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, peach, etc. sown that year; after digging up the rootstock, perform cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them on the seedbed at a certain row spacing, bury soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion; be careful not to let water seep into the union when watering, cover with plastic film for heat and moisture retention, and remove the film after the scion sprouts the following spring. Use dug wild rose plants to bud-graft excellent Chinese rose varieties; or use strong branch segments of the Elizabeth rose variety (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese rose scions on the upper end, then insert the grafted Elizabeth stem segments into a loose seedbed. The grafted part can be buried together in sandy soil; when watering, do not let water seep into the graft union; cover with plastic film for moisture and heat retention; after the scion sprouts the following spring, remove the covering film, and only after it has completely survived should a blade be used to cut the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging for moisture retention.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine, plum blossom, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia, Hall crabapple, purple magnolia, snowball viburnum, weigela, gardenia, winter jasmine, Forsythia, hydrangea, bridal wreath spirea, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, red wood sorrel, Aspidistra, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, large-leaf lilyturf, Ophiopogon, Rohdea japonica, Bryophyllum, and Aglaonema. When cutting off the offsets at the base of a large variegated pineapple plant for division, the small plants must have already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise, the colored bands of the divided offsets are likely to disappear, which should be given special attention.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hall crabapple, Rhapis excelsa, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, Forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal, Phoenix bamboo, and Pleioblastus fortunei, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in December are generally herbaceous flower types moved into greenhouses or cold frames, such as salvia types, globe amaranth types, marigold, French marigold, cyclamen, clivia, etc. Clivia seeds should preferably be sown as soon as collected.

    Woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be collected in December mainly include: Chinese rose, wisteria, privet, small-leaf privet, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, holly types, camphor tree, and photinia types. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination; only after the seeds crack and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage, they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds and flower borders in December include: Dianthus types, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, pot marigold, daisy, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, Dianthus, pansy, etc., and can be used for street display the following spring.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple types, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, Chinese scholar tree, and weeping Chinese scholar tree, etc. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palm, southern magnolia, camphor tree, rhododendron, holly, etc. When transplanting, first heavily prune back the main tip and large branches, and remove most leaves; at the same time, carry a large soil ball, bind the trunk with straw rope and wrap it with plastic film, seal the cut ends of the trunk and large branches with wax or wrap them with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, frequently spray water on the leaves and trunk to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering trees that can be potted in December include: plum blossom, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua, Hall crabapple, and Hall crabapple. Place them in plastic tunnels for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinths, tulips, red-cupped daffodils, etc., continue to be placed in tunnels for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic tunnels with temperatures not lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without frost damage, such as Asparagus densiflorus, asparagus fern, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica variegata, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, nandina, Michelia, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Phoenix bamboo, Pleioblastus fortunei, sago palm, etc.

For ornamental plant species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia, chloranthus, pocket coconut, calla lily, Philodendron, Monstera, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, Lantana, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, geranium, hibiscus, and Buddha belly bamboo, etc., they can overwinter in double-layer plastic tunnels. For species requiring overwintering temperatures not lower than 10°C, such as Croton, Caladium, Peperomia, Calathea, Lucky Bamboo, fishtail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Fittonia, pineapple types, pink-striped leaves, poinsettia, Cymbidium hybridum, Clerodendrum, Pachystachys, Aglaia, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Cymbidium, South American cycad, red (green) gem, Oncidium, Cymbidium hookerianum, etc., in well-sealed double-layer tunnels, appropriate heating should also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the tunnel, and removed after the temperature warms up.

For those relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple types, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Sageretia, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood types, Buddhist pine, trident maple, cypress, Chinese juniper, red cedar, water willow, holly osmanthus, and Chinese fringe tree, etc., when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, they generally will not freeze; in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage and fruit ornamental plants, besides maintaining a suitable indoor temperature, should also be well ventilated; doors and windows can be opened around noon, the warmest time of the day, for ventilation, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, attention must also be paid not to let cold wind directly hit the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, keep the potting soil moist as the standard; if the temperature is low and watering is excessive, it can easily cause root rot in plants. When the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give appropriate foliar spraying.

For potted flowers among those plant species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth, European daffodil, etc., and fruit ornamentals such as bitter orange, lemon, Buddha's hand, four-season mandarin, kumquat, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, nandina, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying must also be given to favor flower bud enlargement and also increase the brightness of flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying should also be given to always keep the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink-striped leaves, Syngonium, Calathea, Croton, Silver Queen, etc., when room temperature is already close to the lower limit of the minimum temperature they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    The watering time in December should preferably be the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by too-low water temperature.

For newly transplanted outdoor flowers and trees, check frequently and supplement watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent leaves from shrinking and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc., placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most greening trees and flowering trees planted in the ground, such as crabapple types, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Manglietia, Michelia types, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, peony, tree peony, Forsythia, Hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange, Deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, nandina, lilac, trumpet creeper, Banksia rose, Hypericum, weeping willow, Japanese cedar, deodar cedar, cypress types, dragon-claw Chinese scholar tree, elm-leaved spirea, dwarf flowering cherry, white silk plum, photinia, redbud, rose of Sharon, etc., in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried around the outer perimeter of the root system, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, septic tank residue, etc., to lay a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, plum blossom, wintersweet, Pachystachys, shrimp plant, pineapple types, Daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, Hall crabapple, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, freesia, etc., continue to apply 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution to promote flower bud formation and blooming.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped topiary not yet pruned in November. Hedges and green walls include privet, small-leaf privet, Chinese privet, large-leaf boxwood, Chinese juniper, four-season osmanthus, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.; ball-shaped types include holly osmanthus, bayberry, photinia, boxwood types, pittosporum, Forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper, Chinese juniper, etc. While completing pruning, fertilizer can also be applied.

For ground-planted flowers and trees not yet pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palm, red-leaf plum, photinia, plane tree, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc., carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is completed, fertilizer can be buried around the root system.

For bonsai plant species mainly shaped by pruning, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia, holly osmanthus, Fujian tea, trident maple, oak, Chinese fringe tree, firethorn, Serissa, Buddhist pine, cypress, Chinese juniper, crabapple, papaya, etc., continue pruning in December to lay a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be combined with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple types, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, crape myrtle, etc., collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce the occurrence of diseases next year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, the former should be controlled in time with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For species of flowers and trees in greenhouses and plastic tunnels that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, sago palm, camellia, Aspidistra, etc., first wipe them once with a cloth, then control with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia, Aglaia, bitter orange, Chinese rose, Fujian tea, etc., tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-field cultivated flowering trees such as pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaf privet, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, deodar cedar, photinia, crape myrtle, wintersweet, etc., various scale insects often appear, such as horned wax scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and felt scale, etc. At this time, spraying with relatively high concentrations of pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin can kill them with little phytotoxicity.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of seedling raising and culture soil preparation next year, the winter leisure time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water vats or ponds, add water, and seal for soaking, composting, and fermentation.

Stack dry dead grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, etc. in layers with garden soil, set on fire and burn to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken manure, pigeon manure, etc. with garden soil for composting, seal and ferment, and it can be used for topdressing seedlings and preparing culture soil next year.

    7. Preparing culture soil. Use the winter free time to find a piece of open ground or a spot under tree shade, and pile up as much culture soil as possible for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers next spring. Generally, use 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder, or rice hull ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots, and other debris, then mix thoroughly, cover with plastic film, or pile indoors; after 3 to 4 months, it can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning soil and freezing clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cuttings, and planting seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December; for plots for sowing and planting seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, etc. can be applied before turning; do not make beds for the time being. After overwintering and freezing clods, make furrows and beds in early spring next year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Buddhist pine, arhat cypress, Chinese juniper, cypress, velvet cypress, oriental arborvitae, creeping juniper, true juniper, black pine, five-needle pine, red pine, water willow, holly osmanthus, holly, Euonymus pendulus, ginkgo, Serissa, Caragana, Chinese elm, Sageretia, trident maple, winter hazel, tamarisk, Hall crabapple, Hall crabapple, papaya crabapple, boxwood, pearl boxwood, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fujian tea, Chinese fringe tree, oak, etc.

For bonsai plants fixed and shaped by coiling with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has already lasted one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding should be removed, and metal wire or palm rope should be used again for hanging, tying, and pulling.

For ground-planted plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, etc. that have already been shaped, after some necessary pruning and shaping, select suitable pots and plant them well, strengthen management, so they can be used next year for display in public places or rooms.

In winter, for some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and stump bonsai, careful management is essential: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and injuring the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, so they can overwinter safely.

Flower Planting Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, around the "sanjiu" period, and most parts of our country enter the severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north frequently moves south, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year appears. This month, for flower maintenance, the most important thing is to do a good job in heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc. in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms; the next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing land, and preparing culture soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: Gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter coral, African daisy, etc. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in the open field include: Chinese rose (Elizabeth), nandina, Ardisia crenata, holly, firethorn, palm, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow tree, goldenrain tree, etc.

    2. Cuttings. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: plum blossom (Green Calyx, Gongfen, etc.), red-leaf plum, Chinese rose (Elizabeth, floribunda, miniature, etc.), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood types, pomegranate, silver bud willow, Mahonia, Buddhist pine, Serissa, Triarrhena, Hypericum, Forsythia, Spiraea thunbergii, winter jasmine, jasmine, etc. Species that can be propagated by cuttings in greenhouses include: jasmine, chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, gem flower, jade leaf, jade tree, Echeveria, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, Pilea, mirror grass, shrimp plant, Pachystachys, Bryophyllum, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum, Schefflera, rubber tree, Daphne, red-backed Excoecaria, Aglaonema, pothos, Cordyline, etc. In addition, branches of lilac, trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela, Deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree, fig, etc. can be cut and stored in sand, to be cut again in March.

    3. Grafting. Excellent plum blossom varieties can be propagated by rootstock grafting using one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, and wild peach as rootstocks; after grafting, bury and plant them on the seedbed, cover with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection. In Guangdong, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, citrus such as four-season mandarin and kumquat are often propagated by bud grafting; use dug wild rose for bud-grafting excellent Chinese rose varieties; use the Elizabeth rose variety as rootstock-scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft excellent Chinese roses; grafting and cutting are carried out simultaneously, and covered with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum blossom, weigela, gardenia, Hall crabapple, Buddhist pine, snowball viburnum, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia, hydrangea, bridal wreath spirea, Spiraea thunbergii, pomegranate, red maple, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: dwarf lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edge lilyturf, Reineckea carnea, autumn zephyr lily, pink zephyr lily, hosta, purple hosta, purple-backed Rohdea, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant types, Rohdea japonica, Aglaonema, Bryophyllum, pineapple types, small tulip, shell ginger, Monstera, aloe, etc. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hall crabapple, Rhapis excelsa, Spiraea thunbergii, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, Forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, chloranthus, tiger thorn, gardenia, Triarrhena, boxwood, purple magnolia, etc.

    6. Collecting seeds. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern and clivia seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown as soon as collected; mature winter coral seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina, firethorn, holly types, Ardisia crenata, etc. can be picked; after treatment, carry out sand stratification for germination, and only after the seeds crack and show white can they be sown.

    In January, frequently check seeds stored in sand, including Magnolia types, Michelia types, photinia types, holly types, etc., to see whether the seeds have become moldy. If mold appears, the seeds must be poured out, rubbed and washed again, and replaced with clean fine sand for storage; if the seeds are found to be dry, supplement spraying water in time; if the seeds have already cracked and shown white or the radicle has emerged, they must be sown immediately, and covered with plastic film or straw, pine needles, etc. for heat and moisture retention.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold areas include: Dianthus types, ornamental kale, pot marigold, daisy, etc.; in relatively cold areas, seedlings of Dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, primrose, etc. can be potted first and placed in simple plastic tunnels, and after spring returns and the weather warms, used for display in street flower beds, green spaces, and flower borders.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple types, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple types, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Magnolia soulangeana, crape myrtle, wisteria, trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, red-flowered spiraea, Triarrhena, Chinese rose, Chinese scholar tree, dragon-claw Chinese scholar tree, etc. For evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree and Chinese privet, this month, except in special cases, transplanting should generally be advanced to December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered places, after transplanting, heavy pruning back and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting are also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, in areas south of the Yangtze River it does not affect the collection of wild tree stumps during forestry afforestation and land preparation, mainly deciduous tree stumps, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia, trident maple, rhododendron, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus, Euonymus pendulus, etc.; for evergreen tree stumps, such as nandina, cat's-claw holly, holly osmanthus, holly, oak, etc., heavy pruning back must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous or evergreen tree stumps, the shallow burial and high mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains should be added for freeze protection.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management work; a slight negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the minimum temperature that various flower species can tolerate, create a special environment for safe overwintering for them, either in a greenhouse, in a plastic tunnel, indoors, or buried in open-field soil. In simple plastic tunnels not lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 0°C can be placed, such as Asparagus densiflorus, asparagus fern, Aspidistra, Fatsia japonica, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, Rhapis excelsa, nandina, Aucuba, Michelia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium, Ardisia crenata, Daphne, sago palm, Acorus, Phoenix bamboo, Pleioblastus fortunei, etc. In double-layer plastic tunnels not lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures around 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, chloranthus, Michelia, pocket coconut, bottle orchid, calla lily, Philodendron, Monstera, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, large Buddha belly bamboo, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, Lantana, etc. In double-layer plastic tunnels or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can tolerate low temperatures around 10°C can be placed, such as Croton, Caladium, Syngonium, Calathea, pineapple types, Peperomia, coleus, Lucky Bamboo, fishtail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Fittonia, red (green) gem, Giant Taro, Green Emperor, Silver Queen, Aglaia, Cymbidium hybridum, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas, South American cycad, desert rose, pink-striped leaves, poinsettia, Pachystachys, coral flower, etc. During particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the tunnel, and adding straw curtains can stop after the temperature warms up. On very cold days, strengthen inspection of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 o'clock in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise it is very easy to cause frost damage to plants. For those relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple types, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Sageretia, oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood types, Buddhist pine, trident maple, cypress, Chinese juniper, summer cypress, oriental arborvitae, small bayberry, holly osmanthus, holly, Chinese fringe tree, etc., they can be buried in the soil together with the flower pots; when the temperature is not lower than -10°C, frost damage generally will not occur, and in particularly cold weather, add plastic film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, including fruit and foliage ornamental plants, besides maintaining a suitable air temperature, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon, the warmest time of the day, for ventilation, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try to avoid cold wind directly hitting the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and plastic tunnels during each cold air southward movement; if broken glass, torn film, etc. are found, plug and repair them in time to prevent potted flowers from freezing. When supplying coal, gas, or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully to ensure no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or plastic tunnel, to prevent smoke damage, etc. from causing flower drop, leaf drop, and fruit drop.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day, kept at about 10°C at night, and given 4 to 5 additional hours of light each day (incandescent lamps), and they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, Hall crabapple, Hall crabapple, winter jasmine, etc. can also be placed in plastic tunnels at about 15°C for flower forcing, with appropriately increased light duration, which can meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinths, tulips, red-cupped daffodils, freesias, etc. already placed in greenhouses in December, strengthen water and fertilizer management, and they can also be expected to be used for decoration and display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    For watering management of potted flowers in January, first and most importantly, pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and spraying, that is, keep the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too large, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, even causing leaf drop, root rot, or death. The watering time should preferably be arranged in the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency, and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and rooms, keep the potting soil moist as appropriate; when the temperature is low, reduce watering accordingly; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give foliar spraying. For most foliage plants, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but foliar spraying should also be given to always keep the leaves clean; for less cold-tolerant foliage plant species, such as pink-striped leaves, Syngonium, Calathea, Croton, etc., when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the minimum temperature the plant can tolerate, especially control the amount of watering. For potted flowers among those species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum blossom, primrose, hyacinth, kalanchoe, pot marigold, etc., and fruit ornamentals such as firethorn, bitter orange, Buddha's hand, lemon, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, kumquat, winter coral, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be sprayed with water to favor flower bud enlargement and also increase the bright color of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspection should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in remote locations from lacking water, and supplement watering in time for plants whose potting soil has dried, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and supplement watering in time; especially for transplanted evergreen ornamental plants, appropriately spray water on the leaves around noon to prevent leaves from shrinking and falling off due to excessively dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most ground-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, such as crabapple types, white magnolia, southern magnolia, purple magnolia, Magnolia soulangeana, Manglietia, Michelia types, maple types, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, Buddhist pine, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, Schima superba, Machilus, purple tree, camptotheca, peony, Forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree, Chinese rose, hydrangea, red-leaf plum, dwarf flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea, tulip tree, Deutzia, mock orange, Banksia rose, Elaeocarpus, golden silk willow, weeping elm, Japanese cedar, Taiwan fir, deodar cedar, Chinese scholar tree, dragon-claw Chinese scholar tree, white silk plum, rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, nandina, purple bamboo, pomegranate, loquat, etc., if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, while turning the soil, bury and apply cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. around the outer perimeter of the tree root system, to lay a material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in greenhouses at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, Pachystachys, Daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, red-cupped daffodil, Hall crabapple, hyacinth, tulip, colorful pineapple, clivia, bird of paradise, crab claw orchid, etc., continue to apply low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution to favor plant growth and flower bud formation and blooming.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in plastic tunnels, because the plants are dormant in winter, fertilization should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

VI. Pruning

Continue pruning hedges, green walls, and ball-shaped types not yet pruned in December; continue pruning flowering shrubs not yet pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, Banksia rose, trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, red-leaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, plum blossom, palm, grape, etc.; after pruning is completed, bury and apply base fertilizer around the outer perimeter of their root systems to meet the needs of spring growth.

For bonsai plant species mainly shaped by pruning and supplemented by tying, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia, bougainvillea, Fujian tea, oak, Chinese fringe tree, water willow, Elaeagnus, firethorn, Serissa, Chinese juniper, etc., continue to adjust and prune according to the original composition requirements, the development and change trends of the plant trunk and branches, and personal aesthetic tastes, to lay a foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

VII. Pest and Disease Control

For the main trunks or large branches of crabapple types, plum types, elm-leaved spirea, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, etc. that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles, etc., they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches burned.

Clean up the leaves under Chinese rose, rose, grape, crape myrtle, etc., gather them and burn them in a concentrated place, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases next year.

For horned wax scale, tortoise wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and soft scale, etc. appearing on the trunks and branches of pittosporum, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, plum blossom, wintersweet, photinia, etc., spray and kill with high-concentration Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime-sulfur mixture, etc., which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as bitter orange, Buddha's hand, and kumquat in greenhouses, carry out integrated control: first wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insects attached to the dry branches with a damp cloth, then spray pesticides such as dimethoate for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in greenhouses, spray 50% iprodione (main ingredient is iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times for control.

VIII. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into ponds or water vats for soaking and fermentation, so as to be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; stack dead grass, branches, fallen leaves, etc. in layers with garden soil, set on fire and burn to make burned soil, which can be used as covering soil for spring sowing and seedling raising; mix barnyard manure, pond fertilizer, tobacco powder, chicken manure, pigeon manure, etc. with garden soil for composting and fermentation, which can be used as fertilizer for preparing culture soil.

IX. Plowing and Freezing Clods

For nursery land not yet plowed in December, seize the time in early January to plow; while plowing the garden land, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, farmyard manure, etc.; after overwintering and freezing clods, make furrows and beds in early spring, for use in sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is particularly cold, plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good flexibility, and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, cypress, ginkgo, boxwood, velvet cypress, Chinese juniper, Serissa, creeping juniper, true juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, Caragana, winter hazel, Euonymus pendulus, banyan, wisteria, etc. After shaping, the plants should preferably be placed indoors or in simple plastic tunnels, and moved outdoors after spring returns and the weather warms; this helps heal damage that may have been caused during shaping.

For plants shaped 1 to 2 years ago with coir rope or wire, if the binding site shows obvious sunken constriction marks, the original binding material should be untied and the plant re-trained and guided with new wiring.

    In January, strict management should be strengthened for some shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried on indoor sand beds; for tree stump bonsai, prevent the pot soil from freezing, which can damage the plant's fibrous roots and may cause artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate. Also prevent plants planted on small rocks from dying after freezing; they should be placed in a non-freezing location and given regular watering and misting to ensure they can safely overwinter.

Different applications of 10 types of ABT rooting powder

Different applications of 10 types of ABT rooting powder

ABT No. 1 to No. 5 are alcohol solvents. When preparing treatment solutions, they should first be dissolved with alcohol, then diluted with water; ABT No. 6, No. 7, No. 8, and No. 10 are water solvents. They are newer and broader-spectrum green plant growth regulators, with the new characteristic of being directly soluble in water. They are more convenient, economical, and easier to store than ABT No. 1 to No. 5.

ABT No. 1 and No. 2 are mainly suitable for treating cuttings in plant cutting propagation, especially for cutting propagation of difficult-to-root plants. They induce adventitious roots, promote well-developed root systems, and improve cutting survival rates.

No. 1 rooting powder is mostly used for difficult-to-root tree species, such as Korean pine, cinnamon, star anise, longan, lychee, Chinese juniper, Pfitzer's juniper, apple, purple-leaf plum, white magnolia, white yulan, star anise plum, lily magnolia, boxwood, elm, etc.;

No. 2 rooting powder is suitable for general plant cutting propagation, such as camellia, Chinese rose, grape, Chinese toon, cloud mist cypress, fragrant cypress, boxwood, Chinese parasol tree, rubber tree, elderberry, dragon-claw willow, etc.

ABT No. 3 is suitable for sowing and seedling raising, planting seedlings for afforestation, and aerial sowing afforestation. When used for sowing and seedling raising, it not only advances growth and ensures full stands, but also effectively promotes the germination of difficult-to-germinate seeds; when used for planting seedlings for afforestation, it can help damaged seedling root systems recover quickly and grow new roots; when used for aerial sowing afforestation, it can significantly promote seed germination and reduce the harm of adverse environments to seeds.

ABT No. 4 is suitable for treating seeds and seedlings of crops, special economic crops, vegetables, etc. Through seed soaking, seed dressing, and seedling root soaking, it can increase germination rates, promote early emergence, promote plant growth and development, and enhance crop resistance, thereby improving the yield and quality of various crops. For example, rice, wheat, corn, various vegetables, etc. are all suitable.

ABT No. 5 is suitable for treating plants with tuberous roots and tubers, such as ginseng, notoginseng, sugar beet, potato, sweet potato, etc. It can increase the main root length and lateral root number of tuberous root and tuber plants and increase yield.

ABT No. 6 is suitable for cutting propagation, sowing and seedling raising, afforestation, etc. In agricultural production, it is widely used for crops such as wheat, corn, rice, peanut, cotton, as well as vegetables, forage grass, and other economic crops.

ABT No. 7 to No. 10 are suitable for cutting propagation, afforestation, crops and vegetables (including tuberous root and tuber plants), tobacco, medicinal plants, and fruit trees, etc.

Methods of use

Quick dipping method

Soak the branches in a solution containing 500 to 200 mg/kg of ABT rooting powder for 30 seconds, then take cuttings. In seedling propagation, this method is used only for single-bud cuttings or repeated treatments.

Soaking method

When treating cuttings with ABT rooting powder, the concentration is inversely proportional to the soaking time, that is, the higher the auxin concentration, the shorter the soaking time; the lower the concentration, the longer the soaking time. In addition, the concentration ratio varies with plant species and branch maturity. Generally, the treatment concentration is lower for flowers and broadleaf trees, and higher for conifers; the treatment concentration for softwood cuttings is lower than for fully lignified branches; the concentration for treating seeds and seedling roots is lower than for treating branches; and the concentration used for difficult-to-root tree species is greater than for easy-to-root tree species. For treating branches, the soaking concentration range is generally 50 to 200 (mg/kg). The soaking method is to prepare ABT rooting powder into a 50 mg/kg, 100 mg/kg, or 200 mg/kg solution as needed, then soak the lower part of the cuttings in the solution for 2 to 12 hours. This treatment method is especially important for dormant branches because it ensures that all the medicinal solution absorbed by the cuttings is used for adventitious root formation. Generally, for large branches, soak the whole branch in 50 mg/kg or 100 mg/kg solution (or soak only the part with latent adventitious root primordia) for 4 to 6 hours; for 1-year-old dormant branches, soak the whole branch in 50 mg/kg or 100 mg/kg solution for 2 hours; for softwood cuttings, according to the degree of lignification of the branches used and the size of the cuttings, soak for 1 to 2 hours, with a soaking depth of 2 to 4 cm. For transplanting, use No. 3 rooting powder at 100 mg/kg and soak for 24 hours, or at 200 mg/kg and soak for 4 to 8 hours.

Powder treatment

Before cutting, apply ABT rooting powder to the base of the cuttings, then insert them for rooting. During treatment, first moisten the base of the cuttings, insert them into the powder so that the cut surface at the base of the cuttings is fully and evenly coated with powder, or mix the powder with water into a paste and apply it to the cut surface. When inserting the cuttings, be careful not to let the powder fall off. The advantage of this treatment is that the method is simple; the disadvantage is that the powder adhering to the lower cut surface of the cuttings is easily dissolved into the cutting medium by misting or falling water.

Foliar spraying

This method is used for cutting or sowing and seedling propagation, and is also widely used on crops. The method is to dilute ABT rooting powder into a 10 mg/kg or 40 mg/kg solution, then spray it on the leaves of plants. For example, rapeseed is sprayed at the early flowering stage and full flowering stage, and rice is sprayed on the leaves at the tillering stage and flowering stage. During cutting propagation, spraying it on the leaves has an excellent effect on tree species with long rooting times, such as Norfolk Island pine and five-needle pine. The foliar spraying method is simple and easy to carry out, and is very widely used in production.

Proportioning and application of conventional rooting agents such as indolebutyric acid, naphthaleneacetic acid, and ABT

First choice highly effective agent universal JH strong rooting agent (low dosage, safe, cost 1 li per plant)

Serial number

Plant name

Rooting rate

Conventional agent formula and related conditions

1

North China larch

90%

Naphthaleneacetic acid 350 ppm + indolebutyric acid 350 ppm + aspirin 1500 ppm + Tuzet 1500 ppm + 1% sucrose mixed solution quick dip treatment

2

Japanese larch

90%

Soak in 0.2% potassium permanganate for 24 hours, spray seedbed with 0.5% monopotassium phosphate

3

Xing'an larch

80%

ABT No. 1 500 ppm quick dip, or indolebutyric acid 350 ppm + naphthaleneacetic acid 350 ppm quick dip

4

Chinese pine

80%

Indolebutyric acid 350 ppm + naphthaleneacetic acid 350 ppm quick dip

5

Deodar cedar

80%

Soak in 100 ppm indolebutyric acid for 4 hours or quick dip in 500 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid

6

Slash pine

80%

Treat with 100-200 ppm indolebutyric acid for 30 minutes

7

Japanese black pine

70%

For trees within 5 years old, cut off the upper part of new branches in spring to let the lower part produce sprouting branches; use the tips of sprouting branches 3-10 cm long as cuttings, then treat with hormones for effective results.

8

Loblolly pine

80%

Soak in 100 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid for 30 minutes

9

Podocarpus

85%

General hormone treatment is effective

10

Chinese juniper

80%

Soak in ABT No. 1 for 1 hour, or soak in 100 ppm indolebutyric acid for 2 hours

11

Chinese arborvitae

90%

500 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid quick dip

12

Dragon juniper

85%

500 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid quick dip for 1 minute

13

Eastern red cedar

80%

With terminal shoot, treat with 100 ppm ABT No. 3 for 2-6 hours

14

Pyramidal cedar

90%

Soak in 50 ppm ABT No. 2 for 2 hours

15

Pfitzer's juniper

95%

Soak the base of cuttings in 100 ppm ABT No. 1 for 2 hours

16

Mountain cypress

95%

Soak in 50 ppm ABT No. 1 for 2 hours

17

Oriental arborvitae

95%

Soak in 50 ppm ABT No. 2 for 2 hours

18

Fragrant cypress

85%

Soak in 100 ppm indolebutyric acid for 2 hours

19

Chinese cypress

95%

Hormone treatment is effective

20

Chinese fir

95%

Soak in 50 ppm ABT No. 2 rooting powder solution for 30 minutes, then take cuttings

21

Japanese cedar

90%

Quick dip in 500 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid solution, then take cuttings

22

Dawn redwood

90%

Quick dip in 500 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid for 5-10 minutes

23

White yew

90%

Hormone treatment is effective

24

Yew

90%

Soak in 200 ppm indolebutyric acid solution for 30 minutes

25

Coast redwood

85%

Treat with naphthaleneacetic acid

26

Bald cypress

90%

Treat the base of cuttings with 500 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid for 0.5-1 minute

27

Ginkgo

80%

First soak in clean water for 2 hours, then quick dip in a 500 ppm mixed solution of indolebutyric acid plus naphthaleneacetic acid

28

Chinese white poplar

90%

Soak for 2 hours in a mixture of 0.5%-5% sucrose solution and 50 ppm ABT No. 1 rooting powder solution

29

Hebei poplar

80%

Soak in 100 ppm ABT No. 1 rooting powder solution for 2 hours

30

Qunzhong poplar

90%

Treat with 250 ppm ABT No. 1 rooting powder for 2 hours

31

David poplar

85%

Treat with a mixed solution of naphthaleneacetic acid plus indolebutyric acid at 350 ppm for 1 hour

32

Beijing poplar

90%

Hormone treatment is sufficient

33

Euphrates poplar

75%

Soak in 250 ppm ABT No. 1 rooting powder for 2 hours

34

** poplar

90%

Soak in 100 ppm ABT No. 1 for 3-4 hours

35

Pagoda tree

80%

Treat with 100 ppm ABT No. 1 rooting powder solution for 2 hours

36

Dragon-claw pagoda tree

85%

Treat with 100 ppm ABT No. 1 solution for 2 hours

37

Jiangnan pagoda tree

90%

Soak in 100 ppm ABT No. 1 solution for 2 hours

38

Elm

80%

Soak in 250 ppm ABT No. 1 solution for 1 hour

39

Siberian elm

85%

Soak the base in 0.4% potassium permanganate for 30 minutes

40

Chinese tulip tree

80%

Quick dip in 500 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid solution

41

Manchurian catalpa

80%

Soak in 50 ppm ABT No. 1 solution for 2 hours

42

Paulownia

90%

Soak in ABT 150 ppm solution for 2 hours

43

Silky oak

80%

Soak in 50 ppm naphthaleneacetic acid for 2 hours

44

Lemon-scented gum

80%

Soak in 0.4% potassium permanganate solution for 30 minutes

45

Silk tree

85%

Soak in 100 ppm ABT No. 1 solution for 1 hour

46

Chinese wingnut

90%

Soak in 25 ppm ABT No. 2 solution for 2 hours

47

Loquat

70%

Soak in 200ppm indolebutyric acid solution for 2 hours

48

Camphor tree

85%

Soak in 50ppm ABT No.1 solution for 2 hours

49

Casuarina

80%

Soak in 20-40ppm naphthaleneacetic acid for 24 hours

50

Mulberry

90%

Quick dip in 500ppm indolebutyric acid plus 250ppm naphthaleneacetic acid

51

Citrus

85%

Soak in 50ppm ABT No.1 solution for 30 minutes

52

Fingered citron

95%

Soak in 50ppm ABT No.1 for 2 hours

53

Pomelo

85%

Soak in 50ppm ABT No.1 for 30 minutes

54

Peach

70%

Soak in 1000ppm indolebutyric acid solution for 10 minutes

55

Purple-leaf plum

70%

Treat with 200ppm ABT No.1 solution for 1-4 hours

56

Elm-leaved spirea

70%

Soak in 100ppm ABT No.1 solution for 0.5-1 hour

57

Oil tea camellia

85%

Treat with 200ppm naphthaleneacetic acid for 16-24 hours

58

Camellia

95%

Soak in 50-100ppm indolebutyric acid solution for 8-12 hours

59

Tea

90%

Soak in 50ppm ABT No.1 solution for 30 minutes

60

Olive

85%

Quick dip in 1000ppm naphthaleneacetic acid

61

Chinese toon

80%

Soak in 100ppm ABT No.1 for 30 minutes

62

Sichuan pepper

80%

Soak in 50ppm ABT No.1 for 30 minutes

63

Yellowhorn

50%

Treat with 250ppm indolebutyric acid for 1 hour

64

Chinese tallow tree

85%

Soak in 100ppm ABT No.1 for 12 hours

65

Pomegranate

90%

Soak in 50ppm ABT No.1 for 0.5-2 hours, or quick dip in a mixture of 500ppm indolebutyric acid + 250ppm naphthaleneacetic acid

66

Ash

85%

Soaking in 100ppm ABT No.1 for 1-2 hours; hormone treatment is effective

67

Dove tree

95%

68

Amur privet

95%

Treat with 50-100ppm indolebutyric acid for 24 hours

69

Small-leaf privet

95%

Soak the base in 0.4% potassium permanganate for 30 minutes

70

Glossy privet

95%

Treat with 50-100ppm indolebutyric acid for 20 hours

71

Nandina

90%

Hormone treatment is effective

72

Firethorn

95%

Hormones can be omitted, but hormone treatment gives better results

73

Narrow-leaf firethorn

95%

Treat with 50ppm indolebutyric acid for 20 hours

74

Big-leaf euonymus

95%

Soak in 50ppm ABT No.2 for 1 hour

75

Spindle tree

90%

Quick dip in 500PPM naphthaleneacetic acid

76

Fortune's euonymus

90%

Quick dip in 500PPM naphthaleneacetic acid

77

Fine-leaf euonymus

95%

Soak in 50ppm ABT No.2 for 1 hour

78

Azalea

90%

Can be propagated by cuttings with a heel; soak in 200ppm indolebutyric acid or naphthaleneacetic acid for 1-2 hours

79

White rose

75%

Treat with 100ppm ABT No.1 for 1 hour

80

Red rose

80%

Treat with 100ppm ABT No.1 for 1 hour

81

Yellow rose

80%

Treat with 100ppm ABT No.1 for 1 hour

82

Osmanthus

85%

Treat with 200ppm ABT No.1 for 2 hours

83

Jasmine

90%

Treat with 100ppm indolebutyric acid for 1 hour

84

Winter jasmine

95%

Roots easily; hormones can be omitted

85

Gardenia

95%

Treat with 50ppm ABT No.2 for 30 minutes

86

Cotton rose

95%

Hormone treatment is effective

87

Rose of Sharon

90%

Best to take material before flowering; treat with 50ppm ABT No.2 for 1 hour

88

Chinese hibiscus

90%

Soak in 100ppm ABT No.2 for 1 hour

89

Winter daphne

95%

Treat with 100ppm ABT No.1 for 2 hours

90

Sweet viburnum

90%

Hormone treatment is effective; old branches also have rooting ability

91

Tianmu viburnum

90%

Roots easily; hormones can be omitted

92

European cranberrybush

95%

Treat with 250PPM naphthaleneacetic acid for 2 hours

93

Chinese snowball viburnum

90%

Easy to establish; hormone treatment is effective

94

Star jasmine

95%

Roots easily, but hormone treatment gives better results

95

Japanese ternstroemia

90%

Hormone treatment is effective

96

Pittosporum

95%

Hormone treatment gives good results

97

Hydrangea

90%

Roots easily, but hormone treatment gives better rooting

98

Weigela

90%

Roots easily, but hormone treatment gives better results

99

Korean weigela

90%

Roots easily, but hormone treatment gives better results

100

Amur honeysuckle

90%

Soak in 100ppm ABT No.1 for 1-2 hours

101

Japanese honeysuckle

95%

Soak in 50ppm ABT No.2 for 30 minutes

102

Red osier dogwood

90%

Hormone treatment is effective

103

Holly

95%

Treat with 70PPM naphthaleneacetic acid for 2 hours

104

Chinese holly

90%

Treat with 0.001%-0.02% boron solution

105

Crape myrtle

90%

Soak in 250ppm naphthaleneacetic acid for 20 minutes, or soak in 50ppm ABT No.1 for 1 hour

106

Banana shrub

90%

Soak in 100ppm naphthaleneacetic acid for 8 hours

107

Red-leaf barberry

95%

Soak in 100 ppm indolebutyric acid for 2 hours

108

Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis (seven-sisters rose)

95%

Roots easily; hormone treatment gives better results

109

Floribunda rose

95%

Roots easily; hormone treatment gives better results

110

Rose

90%

Soak in 50 ppm ABT No. 1 for 30 minutes

111

Sorbaria kirilowii (false spiraea)

85%

Soak in 50 ppm ABT No. 2 for 1 hour

112

Magnolia

80%

Soak in 50 ppm ABT No. 1 for 3-6 hours

113

Chaenomeles speciosa (flowering quince)

90%

Treat with 0.3% potassium permanganate for 4 hours

114

Photinia

90%

Soak in 50 ppm ABT No. 1 for 1 hour; roots generally form in 20 days

115

Serissa japonica (snow bush)

95%

Roots easily; hormone treatment gives better results

116

Bougainvillea

90%

Roots easily; hormone treatment gives better results

117

Cotinus coggygria (smoke tree)

80%

Soak in 100 ppm ABT No. 1 for 2 hours

118

Sea buckthorn

90%

Soak in 100 ppm ABT No. 1 for 2 hours

119

Schisandra chinensis (northern schisandra)

90%

Quick dip in 500-1000 ppm ABT No. 2

120

Kadsura japonica (southern schisandra)

90%

Roots easily; hormone treatment gives better results

121

Kiwifruit

95%

Soak in 100 ppm ABT No. 1 for 1 hour

Notes:
A: ppm is a unit of solute concentration. ppm is the abbreviation of parts per million in English, meaning one part per million,
that is, it indicates parts per million (how many parts), also called parts-per-million rate. For example, 1 ppm means 1 kg of solute in one million kg of solution.
What ppm and percentage (%) express is the same; it is just that its ratio number is larger than that of a percentage.
The concentration expressed as the mass of solute as a millionth of the total mass of the solution is also called parts-per-million concentration.
PPM = mass of solute / mass of solution x 1000000.
B: 1 kg = 1000 g = 1000000 mg; the volume occupied by 1 kg of water is 1000 mL = 1 L.
C: 100 ppm is equivalent to 100 mg = 0.1 g of chemical dissolved in 1 kg of water or 1 L of water.