Clematis Cultivation Key Points and Pest and Disease Control Methods
There are many clematis varieties, and every year many new clematis varieties are successfully bred, but some classic, highly adaptable varieties are still admired and loved by many clematis enthusiasts. Below we introduce the key points of clematis cultivation, pest and disease control, application forms, and more.
1. Cultivation Key Points
1.1 Planting
The roots of clematis fear waterlogging but like a cool, shady environment, so whether clematis is planted in the ground or in a pot, the roots must be kept cool, shady and dry. If you choose to plant in the ground and the garden soil is relatively sticky and heavy, it is recommended to improve the soil, using media such as leaf mold, peat, perlite and coarse sand to improve soil drainage. In addition, be sure to lay a layer of gravel at the bottom of the planting hole to prevent the bottom of the root system from being soaked in water for a long time. For potted clematis, you only need to buy ready-mixed, well-draining planting soil from the market for planting. To make clematis grow robustly and bloom abundantly in the future, apply an appropriate amount of slow-release fertilizer at planting time to ensure nutrient supply.
1.2 Watering
For clematis planted in the ground, apart from watering in the early morning and evening during the hot, dry summer period, no additional watering is needed in other seasons. For potted clematis, follow the watering principle of "water when dry, water thoroughly" - that is, water only after the potting soil has dried out, and when watering, make the potting soil thoroughly moist, so that the clematis root system can grow healthily.
1.3 Fertilizing
For clematis to have a lush flowering season, fertilizing is an indispensable step. There are three important fertilization stages for growing clematis. The first is at the initial planting time, mixing some slow-release fertilizer into the medium to supply nutrients needed for later growth, so the plant quickly grows into a robust specimen. The second is after the onset of winter each year, applying a thin layer of organic fertilizer at the base of the clematis; you can choose seaweed fertilizer or worm castings, to prepare for the coming year's abundant blooms. The third stage of fertilizer can be called a "gift fertilizer": after the flowering period ends, scatter slow-release fertilizer on the soil surface to promptly replenish the large amount of nutrients consumed by flowering.
1.4 Pruning
Pruning of clematis is indispensable for shaping the plant and encouraging flowering. The main pruning methods for clematis can be divided into three groups. Group 1 is the no-pruning type, that is, letting it grow freely and simply removing diseased and weak branches after flowering each year. This pruning method mainly targets the large group of clematis that blooms around March in early spring. Group 2 is the light-pruning type, that is, in late winter and early spring, cutting the clematis back to within 1 m to 1.5 m from the ground. This pruning method mainly targets early-flowering varieties whose flowering period is in April to May. Group 3 pruning is the hard-pruning type: in late spring and early winter, cut all the clematis branches down to a height of 0.3 m to 0.4 m from the ground, so that in the growing season the clematis will send out many robust branches, and at the same time the flowers can be kept within the best line of sight. This pruning type suits late-flowering clematis varieties whose flowering period is in May to June.
Also note that pruning of clematis is not absolute; you can retain or prune certain branches according to the shape you want, ultimately creating a clematis with a unique form.
2. Pest and Disease Control
2.1 Leaf Miners
Clematis is naturally robust and rarely suffers large-scale serious pest or disease outbreaks. Leaf miners are a type of pest that commonly occurs on clematis leaves; the main symptom is gray, irregular curving lines appearing on the leaf surface. This is because the leaf miner larvae chew the mesophyll tissue inside the leaf, forming empty tunnels. Leaf miners do not cause great harm to the growth of clematis, but they do affect the ornamental value of the leaves to a certain extent. Once this symptom appears, promptly cut off the affected leaves and burn them. If the pest infestation is relatively severe, spraying insecticide can be considered.
2.2 Wilt Disease
It occurs occasionally on clematis plants, and once it occurs the harm to clematis growth is extremely great, requiring prompt treatment to prevent the disease from spreading. The symptoms of wilt disease are drooping leaves and branches, much like the wilting that occurs when a plant lacks water, but unlike that, the plant cannot return to normal after watering. Once wilt disease is confirmed, take measures promptly: follow the affected branch toward the root crown to find the lesion, which appears as a ring-shaped constriction and necrosis of the branch; promptly cut off the branch below the lesion until the pith of the branch is seen to be green, and burn the diseased branches. For potted clematis, it is recommended to repot with fresh soil and replant; for clematis planted in the ground, replace all the soil within 15 cm around the root crown point and spray a fungicide.
3. Application Forms
Clematis is extremely suitable whether for potted ornamental display on a balcony or for direct planting in the open ground, but because it climbs by twining with its stems or leaves, no matter where it is planted, it must be provided with a trellis it can climb.
3.1 Pillar Type
The most common form of clematis trellis; you can buy a ready-made trellis, available in wrought iron or plastic, or use sturdy branches pruned from the garden to make one yourself. However, note that as the plant ages, its branches grow relatively quickly, so when buying or making a trellis yourself, it is best to choose a sturdy one with strong load-bearing capacity, to avoid the trouble of the trellis collapsing later.
3.2 Wall-and-Fence Type
If you want to use clematis to decorate a wall, a wall-mounted trellis is a relatively good choice. Use a rectangular planter box as the container, insert a flat trellis, and then place it beside the wall. For some tall courtyard walls, if you want to achieve the effect of clematis covering the entire wall surface, you can plant directly in the ground and fix sturdy metal mesh or wire on the wall surface to help the clematis climb; with careful care, after 2 to 3 years you can have a flower wall covered with clematis.
3.3 Hanging Type
This planting method is relatively suitable for evergreen clematis, such as 'Joe' (C. cartmanii 'Joe') and 'Pixie' (C. Pixie). Because this type of clematis is relatively compact and grows slowly, even if the branches hang down completely they can still flower well, making them very suitable for growing in hanging baskets and displaying on a balcony. Other large-flowered clematis varieties can also be made into hanging potted displays, but because the branches will grow too long and become tangled together, affecting the flowering effect and ornamental value, they are not suitable for long-term growing.
3.4 Screen Type
In public landscaping, you can try combining hanging-type planting methods to form a flower screen covered with clematis. If you use this landscaping method, try to avoid using small-flowered clematis such as 'Bell Clematis'. Large-flowered clematis have better ornamental value because their flowers are eye-catching.
3.5 Ground Cover
The most common ornamental way to grow clematis is to build a support and enjoy it as a climber, but it also has a certain creeping habit and can also be enjoyed as a ground cover plant. Planting clematis in the ground on sites with slopes and undulating terrain, without any support, letting it spread and grow, is also a creative and highly ornamental planting form, relatively suitable for use in private gardens or refined public landscaping. Apart from bell-type clematis and long-sepaled clematis, other types of clematis are all suitable for this application form.
3.6 Pergola
Clematis is a type of plant that grows very vigorously and has relatively strong climbing ability; in landscaping or in private courtyards with the conditions, it can be planted beside a pergola or arch and allowed to climb freely. In about 2 to 3 years, with appropriate pruning, it can basically cover the pergola, forming a relatively good landscape effect.
The above is all the content about clematis. If you are relatively interested in clematis, come to Huinong Network to learn more.
Planting Methods and Field Management Key Points of the Chinese Medicinal Herb Clematis (Wei Ling Xian)
Wei Ling Xian, also known as Iron-Foot Wei Ling Xian, Iron-Horn Wei Ling Xian, Iron-Foot Clematis, etc., is a perennial woody vine of the genus Clematis in the buttercup family, with relatively high cultivation value; its roots and stems are used as medicine and have the effects of dispelling wind-dampness, unblocking meridians and dissipating bone obstruction; the whole plant can be used as a pesticide to control geometrid larvae, cabbage caterpillars, cutworms, and to kill mosquito larvae, etc. Below let us take a look at the cultivation techniques of Wei Ling Xian.
Site Selection and Land Preparation
For planting Wei Ling Xian, choose a plot facing away from the sun, with a relatively short sunshine duration and relatively deep soil; plow deeply and harrow finely, then make beds. In conjunction with land preparation, apply sufficient base fertilizer. Apply 3000 kg of farmyard manure per mu, and 50 kg of compound fertilizer containing 15% each of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Sowing at the Right Time
1. Seedling raising and transplanting: In spring, raise seedlings by broadcast sowing, covering with no more than 1 cm of soil, then cover the bed surface with rice straw; under suitable temperature and moisture, seedlings emerge in about half a month. After emergence, transplant and set out the seedlings 50 to 60 days later.
2. Root bud transplanting: In spring, before the root buds sprout, cut off the root buds with a knife, then transplant directly into the field at a row spacing of 30 x 40 cm.
Field Management
1. Weeding: During the seedling-raising period of Wei Ling Xian, promptly remove the rice straw covering after the seedlings emerge; when the seedlings are 3 to 5 cm tall, carry out intertillage and weeding once, and thereafter carry out intertillage and weeding 1 to 2 more times depending on weed growth. After setting out in the field, carry out intertillage and weeding 2 to 3 times each year.
2. Topdressing: During the seedling stage of Wei Ling Xian, in conjunction with intertillage and weeding, apply dilute and small amounts of human urine and feces or other nitrogen fertilizer; after setting out, apply phosphorus-containing fertilizer or compound fertilizer twice.
3. Pruning: To promote the root development of Wei Ling Xian, appropriately cut off overly dense vines.
4. Drainage and irrigation: For Wei Ling Xian planting, drain promptly in rainy weather, and pay attention to watering in dry weather.
5. Pests and diseases: Wei Ling Xian has relatively few pests and diseases; once discovered, control them promptly.
6. Harvesting: Wei Ling Xian uses its roots as medicine; 2 years after planting, dig up the roots in autumn, pick out impurities, remove stems and leaves, wash off the soil, soak in water, remove, soften thoroughly, cut into sections and dry in the sun, then store in a dry place.
Clematis Planting Method Reference
Clematis Planting Method Reference
Clematis Planting Method Reference
Transplanting time:
Potted clematis can beat any timeof the year be transplanted, because when transplanting you only need to take the clematis plant out of the pot and plant it, without causing any harm to the clematis root system. Of course, the ideal transplanting time for clematis is in spring or early autumn. During this period the soil temperature is relatively warm and the soil moisture content is relatively suitable, providing the best living environment for a plant that has just changed environments. But as long as we can dig a hole, we can plant clematis even in winter; even if freezing soon follows, there is not much of a problem.
Transplanting steps:
Dig a holeThere is no standard size; the size of the round hole depends on how good the soil quality is. If the soil is loose, fertile and well-draining, 30 cm is enough, or the depth of one and a half spadefuls; if on the contrary the soil is heavy and highly clayey, it is best to dig to 50-60 cm deep so as to make a good drainage layer; as for width, 30-40 cm is needed, so that the roots can be placed in freely.
Build a drainage layer
If your yard's soil is clayey and heavy or the area you are in is too humid, you need to build a drainage layer. Usually laying a layer of stones at the bottom of the hole creates a drainage layer; these stones should be a mix of sizes. This drainage layer can prevent water from accumulating at the clematis roots.
Fertilizing
Large-flowered clematis varieties need supplementary nutrients to maintain abundant flowers and vigorous branches and the growth of special flower crowns. At planting time, you can put some slow-release fertilizer at the bottom of the hole as base fertilizer, but be sure to avoid direct contact between the plant roots and the fertilizer. Therefore, after fertilizing, scatter a layer of soil before placing the plant roots into the hole.
TransplantingAfter completing the above steps, you can place the plant roots into the hole. Note that you should bury all the branches 15 cm above the original root crown of the plant into the hole; this provides a guarantee for effective treatment of clematis diseases and for recovery.
WateringAfter planting is completed, water the plant thoroughly.
ShadingThe last step is to cover with shading tiles, or other shading material.
Transplanting Key Points
Building a drainage layer is a very important step for the southern regions where rain is likely.
When planting clematis, it is best to mix the original soil with leaf mold or peat soil to ensure the soil's permeability and nutrition.
Burying the branches at 10 cm above the root crown below ground level helps the healthy growth of clematis and also brings convenience for your future treatment of clematis.
Watering. Clematis likes loose, well-draining soil, and in hot weather its roots should be kept cool and somewhat moist. Usually, the reason clematis dies is excessive watering and relatively poor soil drainage. If you grow clematis in a large container, you must ensure the soil drains well. You need to regularly check the drainage holes at the bottom of the container and make sure nothing clogs the container's drainage holes.
With clematis, you need to observe carefully to ensure you water when the soil is not completely dry; usually in the cooler seasons water thoroughly once every 2-3 weeks. Under very hot summer conditions, clematis may need thorough watering about once every two days. Under normal summer conditions, watering clematis thoroughly once every five days is enough.
Usually, thorough watering is the way that better promotes healthy growth of clematis, because this makes the clematis root system reach deeper rather than only growing in the soil surface layer that is easily dried out by the sun.
Fertilizing
Among all the factors affecting a plant's growth vigor, the most basic is nutrients. Nutrients, light and water act together, enabling the plant to continuously accumulate energy and grow. Usually, potted plants are limited by nutrients, and poor growth conditions are more obvious. When potted clematis lacks nutrients, the plant will turn yellow, become very thin and weak, and eventually die. At the same time we must also be careful not to fertilize clematis too frequently or too much, as this causes fertilizer burn and may also lead to the death of the plant.
Among the series of methods for supplementing nutrients to clematis, the most effective is using liquid fertilizer. Usually, liquid fertilizer is sold in powder form. These powders contain all the elements necessary for plant growth. After mixing these powders with an appropriate amount of warm water, they become a nutrient solution, usually a transparent blue solution. Use this nutrient solution to water the clematis. From April to May, when the new buds are growing, begin fertilizing until September to October; during this period you can fertilize 6 to 7 times, usually once a month. Here is another suggestion for your fertilizing: the day before using liquid fertilizer, watering the plant thoroughly once is a very good practice, because this allows the water flow to carry away residual organic matter retained in the plant, and also lets the plant in the container be fully prepared for its new meal.
Propagation
1. Sowing: Species clematis can be propagated by sowing. For seeds of the epigeal type (smaller achenes, thinner seed coat), if sown in spring, they germinate in about 3-4 weeks. If sown in autumn, they sprout when spring warms up. For seeds of the hypogeal type (larger, thicker seed coat), they must go through a low-temperature vernalization stage before they can germinate and the first pair of true leaves appears; some species must go through two low-temperature stages before they can germinate, such as Clematis patens. For vernalization treatment, for example, refrigerate the seeds at a low temperature of 0-3°C for 40 days; germination then takes about 9-10 months. Treatment with gibberellin at a certain concentration can also be used.
2. Layering: In March, layer using mature branches grown the previous year. Usually they root within 1 year.
3. Grafting: For hybrid species such as Jackman clematis, a single-node scion can be grafted onto the rootstock by cleft grafting. The node has 1-2 buds, and below the node is 5-10 cm long; grafting in a heated and sealed grafting box easily promotes survival.
4. Division: Clump-forming plants can be divided.
5. Cuttage: Hybrid clematis cultivars mainly use cuttage as the propagation method. In July to August, take semi-mature branches and cut them at the internode (that is, cutting in the middle between the upper and lower nodes; the node has 2 buds). The medium is half peat and half sand. The cutting depth is such that the buds on the node just show above the surface. Bottom temperature 15-18°C. After rooting, pot into 3-inch pots, and overwinter in a frost-protected hotbed or greenhouse. In spring, change to 4-5 inch pots and move outdoors. In summer, shading is needed to protect against rain showers; set out in the field at the end of October.
Cultivation
When cultivating clematis, special attention should be paid to drainage. When planting, generally dig a hole 40 cm deep and 60 cm in diameter. After loosening the hard soil at the bottom of the hole, put in a large amount of humus, then add topsoil mixed with bone meal. In poorly draining clay or light sandy soil, after loosening the bottom of the hole, mix in a spadeful of peat soil or humus. In places where water may accumulate, the bottom must be raised with stones or rubble, 25 cm above the surrounding soil surface.
Planting time: in the north, after the ground thaws; in the central region, in April to May. Do not pack the soil too tightly around the roots; pressing lightly with the hand is enough. For potted plants, the top of the root ball should be level with the topsoil; when planting bare-rooted plants, the root crown should be 5 cm below the ground surface. After planting, cover the surface with 10 cm of peat or humus to prevent the roots from getting too hot in summer and at the same time keep the soil moist.
In the first few months after planting, pay attention to giving sufficient water. The watering range should be no less than 50 cm in diameter, so that the roots can extend in all directions. If the branches are brittle and break easily, pay attention to guiding and fixing them.
Pruning methods, according to the flowering habits of clematis varieties, can be divided into 3 groups:
1. Group 1 - the flowering period begins before the end of May, the pedicels are short, and usually more than 2 flowers are borne in the leaf axils.
In the first year after planting, between February and March, shorten all branches to 30 cm each. In the second year, between February and March, shorten all branches to 1 m each. From the third year onward, each year after flowering cut out weak and dead branches.
2. Group 2 - flowers open on short branches sprouted from the leaf axils of the previous year's branches. One flower per branch; the flowering period begins before the end of June.
In the first year after planting, between February and March, shorten all branches to 30 cm each. In the second year, between February and March, shorten all branches to 1 m each. From the third year onward, between February and March, cut all branches short above the first pair of plump lateral buds.
3. Group 3 - flowers open on new branches of the current year, each branch bearing several flowers; the flowering period begins in July.
In the first year after planting, between February and March, shorten all branches to 30 cm. From the second year onward, each year between February and March, cut all branches above the growth point of the previous year, not exceeding 75 cm from the ground surface.
Pest and Disease Control
Clematis has relatively strong resistance to pests and diseases and rarely suffers serious pest or disease damage. Pests include red spider mites and leaf-eating insects. Diseases include wilt disease, which is especially likely to occur in summer when rain clears and the temperature rises sharply, with branches suddenly withering, and new shoots often sprouting in autumn or the following spring. Others include powdery mildew (harming leaves or flowers) and viral disease (yellow spots on leaves, deformed flowers), etc.
Application
Clematis can be used as cut flowers for exhibitions, can be used to climb evergreen or deciduous trees and shrubs, can be used as ground cover, and can also be used to climb walls and fences, pavilions, trellises, flower pillars, arches and other garden structures.