Key Techniques for Softwood Cutting Propagation and Seedling Cultivation of Winterberry (North American Holly)

At present, there has been no major breakthrough in hardwood cutting of winterberry, and the 50% seedling formation rate is not satisfactory. Softwood cutting is the main propagation method for most landscape plants, and in foreign countries seedlings are also mainly propagated by softwood cutting. Below is an introduction to the softwood cutting propagation and seedling cultivation techniques for winterberry.

Softwood Cutting Propagation and Seedling Cultivation Techniques

1. Cutting Substrate

Recommendations:

1) Perlite + Northeast peat + clean river sand = 60% + 30% + 10%

2) All clean sand

Substrate disinfection is very important! Steam disinfection is best; formalin or chlorothalonil disinfection is also acceptable.

2. Cuttings

Generally, cuttings 3 cm long with one leaf that have not yet become semi-lignified are used for propagation. Soft cuttings lose water and dry out easily but root quickly; old cuttings do not lose water and dry out easily but their stems rot easily and they root very slowly; long branches can only be old branches and root slowly; thin and weak branches root quickly, while thick and sturdy branches root slowly.

3. Rooting Agent

Generally, 300-800 PPM sodium naphthaleneacetate is used; ABT No. 6 rooting agent also works very well.

4. Temperature and Humidity Management

The key to a high seedling formation rate is: lower substrate moisture and higher air humidity. It is best to install automatic mist cooling equipment to spray at regular intervals for cooling and humidification. Humidity inside the arched shed should be above 90%, and temperature below 38°C.

5. Common Problems: Scorched Leaves and Leaf Drop of Cuttings

Cause: Insufficient air humidity, causing leaves to dry out.

Measures: Spread a layer of 8 cm thick soaked sawdust under the plug trays to increase air humidity; increase shading; frequently spray outside the small arched shed to lower the temperature inside the shed.

Potted Production Techniques

1. Facilities and Equipment

Individual greenhouses or connected greenhouses are essential; their main functions are shading, bird protection, and protection from rain and snow.

2. Cultivation Modes

1. Plant in the ground first, then pot up, with a plant and row spacing of 60 cm × 60 cm

2. Grow continuously in flower pots or other containers

3. Pruning

After field planting or potting, cut the stem back to about 15 cm-20 cm.

After sprouting in spring, spray 300-500 times diluted paclobutrazol or PBO growth regulator 2-3 times, and control the current year's growth shoots to about 20 cm. In winter, prune off basal sprouts and side branches exceeding 20 cm.

After sprouting in the second spring, spray 300-500 times diluted paclobutrazol again to control the current year's growth shoots to about 20 cm, and prune into a spherical shape in winter.

In the third spring, do not spray paclobutrazol and let it bloom and bear fruit.

4. Water Management

Winterberry is tolerant of waterlogging but not of drought. Therefore, potted and field-planted seedlings differ little in pruning and fertilizer management, but in water management, potted plants dry out particularly easily, so automatic sprinkler irrigation facilities are best.

5. Fertilizer Management

From August to September each year, apply organic fertilizer once or a compound fertilizer with N:P2O5:K2O=12:11:18. If the soil fertility is sufficient, no fertilizer is needed.

After flowering and fruiting in the third year, apply a high-potassium fertilizer with N:P2O5:K2O=14:14:30 by watering, 2-3 times. At the end of August and beginning of September, after the temperature turns cooler, apply the same fertilizer 2-3 times by watering, at a concentration of 500-800 times dilution.

6. Light and Temperature

During the vegetative growth period in the first 1-2 years, potted plants should have enhanced fertilizer and water management and be given sufficient light. In the third year, if cultivated for fruit display, give sufficient light during the flowering and fruiting periods; the fruit color begins to turn red in September. When the temperature exceeds 38°C, shading is needed in the south.

7. Pollination

When potted plants bloom in the third year, place 1 pot of male plants among 9 pots of female plants; after pollination is complete, remove the male plants and care for them together.

8. Common Problems

(1) Flower Drop Problem

Flower and fruit drop in potted plants is relatively common, manifested as two types: drying up before blooming and failing to set fruit after blooming. Analysis suggests one or several of the following causes:

① Too much or too little or unbalanced fertilizer;

② Too much or too little water;

③ Insufficient supply or imbalanced distribution of endogenous hormones;

④ Insufficient light;

⑤ Poor pollination, etc.

Landscape Application

Landscape application generally uses field planting; there are no technical difficulties in cultivation, but the shaping must be designed in advance. Proper pruning must be done every winter.

Spherical shape: The most convenient and quickest to take shape. After leaf drop each winter, prune into a round spherical shape.

High-stem form: After setting the trunk at 1.5 m or 2 m, let it grow.

The above are the softwood cutting propagation and seedling cultivation techniques for winterberry. We hope they are helpful to you. To learn more agricultural technology knowledge, please follow Huinong Academy!

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Complete Collection of Flower Planting Manuals

Flower Planting Manual

Key Points for Spring Flower Planting

Flower Planting Manual (February Edition)

    Weather characteristics of February: This month is the last month of winter and also the cold period of the year second only to January. By the end of February, the weather begins to gradually warm up and transition toward spring, and quite a number of flowers also begin to shift from winter dormancy to the recovery stage. This month's flower-related work mainly includes the following aspects: first, continuing to do a good job of cold protection and insulation for potted flowers in protected facilities; second, doing a good job of post-bloom pruning and repotting of some woody flowers; third, doing the preliminary preparation work for cutting, grafting propagation, and seed sowing of some flower species.

   1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February include: Calendula officinalis, Cyclamen, dwarf sunflower, Asparagus fern, Gloxinia, tuberous begonia, Carthamus, cornflower, Gaillardia, strawflower, Salvia splendens, marigold, petunia, California poppy, Phlox, Calceolaria, Schizanthus, snapdragon, Tropaeolum, pansy, etc. Those that can be sown outdoors in the open field at the end of February include: magnolia, Michelia, Photinia, Acer, and Malus (Rosaceae) seeds that have been sand-stored and have already cracked and shown white, as well as Cinnamomum camphora, Liriodendron, Ligustrum, Ardisia, Pyracantha, palm, Koelreuteria, Sapindus, Aesculus, Syringa, etc.; seeds of Chimonanthus praecox, Calycanthus, Wisteria, etc. should be soaked for 24 to 48 hours, and sown after the seeds have absorbed enough water. Tubers of tuberose and bulbs of Hippeastrum can also be potted in greenhouses or plastic tunnels in February.

    2. Cutting. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by open-field cutting or cutting with plastic film mulching for moisture retention in February include: plum blossom (cut one-year-old branches after flowering for varieties such as Gongfen and Lü'e), Nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis (southern regions), Lagerstroemia, Daphne (southern regions), Edgeworthia, pomegranate, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum, Serissa, Hibiscus syriacus, Hypericum (plum), Spiraea, Mahonia, Buxus, Lespedeza, etc. Sand-stored branches of Syringa and Campsis can also be cut at this time. In early February, branches of Weigela, Deutzia, Hydrangea, Tamarix, Platanus, grape, fig, etc. can also continue to be cut and stored for cutting at the end of March.

    Ornamental plant species that can be cut indoors in February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Bougainvillea, African violet (leaf cutting), Begonia maculata, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Salvia splendens, Pelargonium, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Citrus medica, Crassula ovata, Crassula, Echeveria, Graptopetalum, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Pilea, Kalanchoe, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum, Schefflera, Aglaonema, Cordyline, etc.

   3. Grafting. Indoors, use one-year-old sturdy black pine seedlings as rootstock to graft Japanese white pine, Pinus parviflora, Pinus bungeana, etc., then plant in the ground and cover with plastic film for insulation and moisture retention. Use one-year-old seedlings of apricot, wild peach, etc. as rootstock, and use cleft grafting to propagate red-leaf plum, plum blossom, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, etc. In areas south of the Yangtze River, when the leaf buds on Chimonanthus branches grow to the size of wheat grains, use Chimonanthus seedlings about 0.8 to 1.2 cm in diameter as rootstock, and use cleft grafting to propagate excellent varieties of Chimonanthus such as "Suxin," "Xinkou," and "Huti," adopting bagging and inflation moisture-retention measures, which results in a relatively high survival rate. Use sturdy branches of the rose variety "Elizabeth" as rootstock scions, and use cleft grafting or split grafting for excellent rose variety scions, adopting measures of grafting first, then cutting, then covering with plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection, which can greatly improve the grafting survival rate.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in February include: plum blossom, Chimonanthus, Chaenomeles, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Gardenia, Weigela, Podocarpus, Sabina, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Hypericum, Hydrangea, Spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, red maple, Michelia, etc.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Iris, Belamcanda, Zephyranthes, Liriope, Liriope muscari, Liriope variegata, Reineckea, Rohdea, Dicentra, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Ornithogalum, Bromeliaceae, Tradescantia, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Nephrolepis, Chlorophytum, Kalanchoe, Canna, Maranta, Monstera, Syngonium, Strelitzia, Clivia, Aloe, etc. Woody flower species that can be propagated by division in February include: Nandina, Hibiscus mutabilis, Hypericum, Mahonia, Hydrangea, Chaenomeles, Edgeworthia, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Caragana, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea japonica, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Damnacanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Osmanthus fragrans, Bambusa multiplex, Sasa fortunei, etc.

    1. Seed collection. In February, seeds of Nandina, holly species, Ardisia, winter cherry, etc. can be picked, processed, and sand-stored for germination. Sowing can only be done after the seeds have cracked and shown white. For Clivia plants blooming in the greenhouse, artificial supplementary pollination can be given in order to obtain Clivia seeds with better genetic quality.

    In February, pay attention to checking various sand-stored flower and tree seeds to see whether any seeds have become moldy; if mold occurs, wash them promptly; if seeds are found to be dry, appropriately supplement with water spraying to maintain a certain humidity in the sand and seeds; if a small number of seeds have already cracked and shown white, sow them within a relatively short time. Once the radicle extends too long before sowing, it is very easy to break the radicle and affect the seed germination rate. Large sand-stored seeds can be sown by dibbling, while small seeds can be sown in drills or rows. After sowing, pay attention to covering with grass or plastic film for moisture retention and cold protection.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. In February, when the soil in southern regions is not frozen and temperatures are relatively high, herbaceous flower species that can be transplanted and planted out include: Dianthus, snapdragon, hollyhock, silver-edged holly, daisy, Calendula, etc.

    In February, the vast majority of deciduous flowering shrubs and some evergreen tree species can be planted out. Among deciduous types: Hibiscus syriacus, pomegranate, redbud, Malus, ginkgo, Liquidambar, Acer, Wisteria, Lagerstroemia, Chimonanthus, plum blossom (before sprouting and leafing out), Magnolia, Sapindus, Albizia, Aesculus, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, Chaenomeles, Campsis, Tilia, Liriodendron, ornamental peach, Sapium, Spiraea, Triarrhena, Deutzia, Sophora japonica, Sophora japonica var. pendula, Prunus japonica, Prunus triloba, Hypericum (plum), weeping willow, golden willow, Hibiscus mutabilis, Cotinus, persimmon, apricot, etc.; evergreen tree species such as Michelia, Cinnamomum camphora, Elaeocarpus, Fraxinus chinensis, Machilus, Machilus pauhoi, etc. can be delayed until late February to early March for planting; Osmanthus, Ligustrum, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis cv. Kaizuca, Platycladus orientalis, black pine, etc., should be given moderate pruning when planting.

    1. Cold protection. The weather in February is still cold. After two consecutive months of indoor (shed) maintenance, potted ornamental plants have consumed a relatively large amount of internal nutrients, and the resistance of the plants has greatly decreased. Moisture retention and cold protection work should continue carefully. Greenhouses or plastic tunnels with heating facilities should continue to be heated, and harmful gases or smoke should be prevented from entering the tunnel or greenhouse; those with straw curtains hanging on the top or around the tunnel can continue to hang straw curtains; when sudden temperature drops occur after snow, even more care should be taken.

For overwintering potted flowers placed in protected facilities, ventilation and air exchange work should continue. Especially by the end of February, the ventilation time can be extended during the period of highest daily temperature. It is worth noting that when indoor potted flowers are placed in the sun, it is best to place them inside the south-facing window without opening the window.

For a small number of cold-sensitive flowers grown at home, such as Aglaia odorata, Phalaenopsis, Calathea, Syngonium, Begonia masoniana, Codiaeum, Dieffenbachia, etc., in particularly cold weather, plastic bags can be put on at night, or they can be placed in the bathroom with heating appliances such as "bathroom heaters" turned on to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    2. Watering. In February, due to relatively low temperatures, for the vast majority of potted flowers, it is sufficient to keep the potting soil moist so they can overwinter safely, because at this time root growth has stopped and metabolism is at a relatively low level, so water demand is low. Once water accumulates in the potting soil, it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death. For relatively dry indoor environments, frequently spray water and mist on the leaves of plants to increase the air humidity of the local environment. If the indoor air is excessively dry, in mild cases it causes leaves to lose green color and luster and flower buds to stop growing; in severe cases leaves shrink and wrinkle and flower buds shrivel and fall off, such as in Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, plum blossom, Citrus aurantium, kumquat, winter cherry, etc., all of which may show bud and fruit drop, or even death. In addition, the water temperature for watering or spraying should be basically consistent with the indoor or shed air temperature and soil temperature.

[page]    For those potted plant species placed indoors that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cineraria, Primula, Kalanchoe, Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Belgian azalea, Calendula, etc., and fruit-viewing plants such as Pyracantha, Nandina, Citrus aurantium, Citrus medica, lemon, Ardisia, four-season tangerine, winter cherry, etc., not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but water must also be sprayed on the leaves, flower buds, and fruits, so that the leaves can be green, the flower buds can rapidly expand, and the fruits can be brightly colored. In particular, for peony, plum blossom, Chaenomeles, Malus halliana, etc. placed in plastic tunnels for forcing, branches must also be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day to accelerate the expansion of flower buds so that they can bloom as scheduled. For Cymbidium purchased from greenhouses, because the temperature and humidity in the original greenhouse differ greatly from those at home, if the leaves are not frequently sprayed with water, the leaves often appear shrunken and withered. For potted plants and bonsai placed in air-conditioned rooms, especially Japanese white pine bonsai, etc., the potting soil must be kept moist, and the plants must be sprayed with water 1 to 2 times a day; otherwise the plants may very likely die.

    Although in February most potted flowers do not need much water, inspection should be strengthened. Especially during several consecutive days of rising temperatures, supplementary watering and spraying should be done promptly.

   In February, for greening trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in autumn and winter, supplementary watering should be done promptly. Especially for evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, appropriate leaf spraying should also be done around noon on clear days to prevent leaves from shrinking and falling off afterward, which would affect spring recovery growth.

    3. Fertilizing. In February, continue to bury base fertilizer for most field-planted greening trees and flowering shrubs. Fertilizer types include: cake fertilizer, manure, chicken and pigeon droppings, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. These can be applied by digging ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the plant root system, then covering with soil, to meet the needs of plant growth and flowering and fruiting in spring and summer.

   In February, for potted flowers placed in 10°C to 15°C greenhouses (plastic tunnels), such as Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, cineraria, Primula, Cyclamen, Belgian azalea, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Daphne, plum blossom, European daffodil, hyacinth, tulip, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Neoregelia, Tillandsia, Guzmania, Clivia, etc., continue to apply low-concentration potassium dihydrogen phosphate to promote plant growth and bud formation and flowering. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants, and tree stump bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, including small and miniature bonsai, because they are still in a dormant state, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and plant death.

    4. Pruning. In February, for field-planted or potted plum blossom, Chimonanthus, Forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, severe renewal pruning can be carried out. For branches that have bloomed, only 2 to 3 buds at the base are retained, and all the rest are cut off, to promote more new shoots in the current year and even denser branches and buds the following year. In addition, water sprouts, dead branches, and misshapen branches should also be pruned at the same time. For tree stump bonsai types that are mainly pruned, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia, Ficus, Acer buergerianum, Carmona, Xylosma, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina, Elaeagnus, Ilex cornuta, holly, Serissa, Juniperus, Juniperus rigida, etc., continue pruning; for stumps that have not been repotted for 1 to 2 years, repot them while pruning.

    5. Repotting. From late February to early March is the favorable time for repotting the vast majority of potted ornamental plants. Generally, repotting is best done when the plant's winter dormancy is about to end, the root system is resuming growth, and the leaf buds have not yet sprouted. Flower species that can be repotted by the end of February include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Brunfelsia, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Nephrolepis, Monstera, Ficus elastica, Fuchsia, Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia rex, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cycas, Clivia, Haworthia, Aloe, Schlumbergera, Epiphyllum, Sedum, Crassula ovata, Crassula, Kalanchoe, Hippeastrum, Asparagus fern, Chlorophytum, Araucaria, Schefflera, Rohdea, Strelitzia, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Cyrtanthera, Clerodendrum, Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chaenomeles, Hydrangea, Nandina, Codiaeum, Syngonium, Maranta, Ardisia, Pyracantha, Citrus aurantium, kumquat, Citrus medica, etc.

    6. Pest and disease control. For powdery mildew appearing on the leaves of potted cineraria in greenhouses and gray mold appearing on the leaves of Primula, at the early stage of onset, choose 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 1500 times dilution to spray, once every 10 days, 2 to 3 consecutive sprays.

For gray mold appearing on the leaves and flower crowns of potted Cyclamen in plastic tunnels, spray 50% iprodione (main component iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution.

For potted Belgian azaleas in plastic tunnels, stop spraying foliar fertilizers such as "Duoxiaohao" on the leaves, because at this time the temperature is low and the humidity in the tunnel is high, so foliar fertilizer is difficult for the plant to absorb and instead easily breeds mold on the leaf surface, and in severe cases forms unsightly disease spots.

For aphids, scale insects, ants, and sooty mold appearing on potted flowers in greenhouses (such as Citrus aurantium and kumquat), when there are few insects they can be brushed off with a brush; when there are many insects, use 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 2000 times dilution to spray and kill. After aphids, scale insects, and ants are killed, sooty mold will also be eliminated accordingly.

For insect bodies such as, white peach scale, oyster shell scale, and black-brown round scale appearing on potted flower plants in plastic tunnels, they can be brushed off with a hard brush, or killed with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, or sprayed with 2.5% fenvalerate emulsifiable concentrate at 2500 times dilution, or controlled by burying 3% carbofuran or 20% aldicarb granules in the flower pot.

Continue to clean up dead branches and fallen leaves under flowers and trees, and insect-infested branches and diseased leaves on potted flower plants, and burn them in a centralized manner, which can significantly reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.

    7. Composting fertilizer. Pour tea seed cake, rapeseed cake, soybean cake, etc. into a water tank or vat, add clean water, and seal for fermentation, so that it can be diluted during the growing season for watering potted flowers. Or pile and ferment cake fertilizer, etc., and after about 2 months spread it out to dry in the sun. After it is fully dried, pack it in plastic bags. The thoroughly composted and sun-dried cake fertilizer in granular powder form can be scattered in flower pots as topdressing. For Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, Cymbidium sinense, Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and other potted flower types, it is more convenient than watering with liquid cake fertilizer. Especially when growing flowers on balconies, it is both convenient and hygienic, and can also reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases. In addition, it can also be used for preparing potting soil.

    8. Turning and freezing soil. In early February, continue to turn and cultivate garden plots that have not yet been plowed. After overwintering and freezing, when spring returns and the weather warms, dig trenches and make beds for raising seedlings or transplanting flowers and trees.

    Plant species that can be trained and shaped by wiring in February include Sabina, Podocarpus, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus, Platycladus orientalis, Juniperus chinensis, ginkgo, Serissa, Sabina procumbens, Japanese white pine, Pinus hwangshanensis, black pine, Pinus densiflora, Adina, Caragana, small golden plum, Corylopsis, Chaenomeles, Lagerstroemia, Ficus, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, etc.

Continue to rewire and adjust plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago. If plants are found to have sunken binding constriction marks, first remove the metal wire or non-metal wire and replace it with new binding material for wiring and fixing.

For shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, landscape bonsai, small and miniature bonsai, stone-attached bonsai, etc., continue to do a good job of insulation and cold protection, keeping them always in an environment not lower than 0°C, to prevent the plants from freezing to death or the artificially cemented rocks from freezing and cracking apart, causing undue losses.

Flower Planting Manual (March Edition)

(1) Flower species suitable for courtyard planting

    1. Field-planted flower species

If the front of your courtyard is open and spacious, with good light and ventilation conditions, or if the distance from the row of buildings in front is greater than 30 m, and the soil has been improved to a certain degree, then you can plant some flower species that are relatively sun-loving and have higher requirements for the growing environment. Field-planted flowers and trees such as: Magnolia denudata, ginkgo, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, Chaenomeles, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, persimmon, Hibiscus mutabilis, Liriodendron, plum blossom, rose, fig, Camellia, Lagerstroemia, peony, pomegranate, Wisteria, cherry blossom, grape, ornamental peach, Nandina, red maple, redbud, Hibiscus syriacus, Canary Island date palm, etc. If your courtyard is relatively shady and humid, then choose flower and tree species adapted to shady and humid conditions, such as palm, Photinia, Aucuba, French holly, Ligustrum, Mahonia bealei, Magnolia grandiflora, Cinnamomum camphora, Sabina chinensis cv. Kaizuca, Elaeocarpus, Podocarpus, Fatsia japonica, Sabina chinensis, cedar, Chimonanthus, banana, clustered bamboo, etc. Regardless of the light, dryness, and wetness in your courtyard, the following points should be noted when choosing field-planted flowers and trees: first, the minimum temperature that the flowers and trees can tolerate should not be lower than the local minimum temperature, to avoid frost damage; second, they should be adapted to the local soil and moisture conditions, to avoid incompatibility; third, they should have fewer pests and diseases, a relatively long flowering and fruiting period, fragrance, and auspicious flower names; fourth, the number of flowers and trees should not be too many; a small courtyard can have 1 to 2 plants, while a large courtyard can plant several more; fifth, the height of adult large trees should not exceed the windows and balconies of the second floor, so as not to obstruct the lighting of upstairs residents and affect neighborly relations; sixth, avoid planting flower and tree species that can cause human allergies or contain toxic substances; seventh, choose relatively slow-growing but basically formed large-specification plants, which can achieve greening and beautification effects early, such as ginkgo, Japanese fir, Osmanthus, plum blossom, Podocarpus, etc., whose height should not be less than 2 m; eighth, leave some open space for planting herbaceous flowers and placing potted ornamental plants.

There are many types of herbaceous flowers and groundcover plants suitable for field planting. Sun-loving and light-loving ones include Dianthus, snapdragon, ornamental kale, pansy, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, Gomphrena, Celosia, marigold, hollyhock, Impatiens, lupine, daisy, Calendula, corn poppy, Zephyranthes, dahlia, etc. Relatively shade-tolerant herbaceous flowers and groundcover plant types include: Liriope, Liriope muscari, Reineckea, Hosta, Hosta ventricosa, Lycoris, Rohdea, Tradescantia, Aspidistra, Iris, Acorus, Saxifraga, etc.

    2. Potted flower species

There are many flower species suitable for potting in home courtyards. When conditions are relatively good, choose some flower species that require relatively meticulous management, such as plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, Camellia, poinsettia, Chimonanthus, Belgian azalea, Araucaria, Dracaena fragrans, Pachira, King coconut, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, Jasminum sambac, Ardisia, Bromeliaceae, Zamioculcas, Fagraea (commonly known as African jasmine), Cinnamomum (commonly known as Ping'an tree), Calla lily, Primula, Cymbidium, Anthurium, Cymbidium ensifolium, Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium sinense, Cyclamen, Oncidium, Vanda, Rieger begonia, tuberous begonia, Strelitzia, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Clivia, Epipremnum, Fittonia, Codiaeum, Syngonium, Syngonium, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium, lemon, tulip, hyacinth, Calceolaria, Caryota, Areca, bottle palm, etc. For courtyards with relatively poorer conditions, grow some types that require relatively extensive management, such as Nandina, Cycas, Rhapis, chrysanthemum, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Hippeastrum, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Caragana, Serissa, Chaenomeles, Osmanthus fragrans, Cactaceae, Asparagus fern, Ficus elastica, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Monstera, Philodendron, Schefflera, Pilea, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Bougainvillea, Euphorbia, Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Rhododendron, Ficus, etc.

(2) Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Courtyard flower species that can be sown in March include: Lagerstroemia, redbud, Chimonanthus, Calycanthus, red maple, Liriodendron. For the latter five, seeds need to be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours before sowing, and sown after they have absorbed enough water. Flower and tree species that can be sown and raised after sand storage for germination include: Cycas, ginkgo, Podocarpus nagi, Podocarpus, Livistona, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, Osmanthus, Aesculus, Nandina, holly species, pomegranate, Viburnum macrocephalum, etc. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: Impatiens, marigold, Gomphrena, Zinnia, Salvia splendens, cockscomb, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, Primula, Malva, Mirabilis, Strelitzia, Clivia, Asparagus fern, etc. Some cold-intolerant species should be sown in plastic tunnel covers.

    2. Cutting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by cutting in March include: Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Pelargonium, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Portulacaria, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Hydrangea, Nandina, Chaenomeles, silver bud willow, Hypericum, Podocarpus, pomegranate, fig, Fatsia japonica, Gardenia, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Sabina, Daphne, Pyracantha, etc. Cold-sensitive flowers should be cut in sheds or indoors.

    3. Grafting. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by grafting in March include: using 1- to 2-year-old black pine seedlings as rootstock, side grafting to propagate Japanese white pine, Osaka pine, Pinus parviflora, etc.; using 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora seedlings as rootstock, cleft grafting to propagate Michelia, Magnolia soulangeana, etc.; using 1-year-old peach and apricot seedlings as rootstock, cleft grafting to propagate plum blossom, longevity peach, ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, etc.; using finger-thick seedling Chimonanthus as rootstock, when its leaf buds grow to the size of wheat grains, select scions from excellent varieties of Chimonanthus, carry out cleft grafting and bagging for moisture retention, resulting in a relatively high survival rate; using Hylocereus undatus as rootstock, grafting to propagate Schlumbergera and various cactus ball types, preferably in plastic tunnels. In addition, Camellia, cherry blossom, Osmanthus, red maple, etc. can also be grafted in March.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in March include: Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, plum blossom, Chimonanthus, red maple, Podocarpus, Sabina, Platycladus orientalis, Michelia, Chaenomeles, snowball, Gardenia, Osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, etc.

    5. Division. Flower species that can be propagated by division in March include: orchid grasses, Dicentra, Aspidistra, Asparagus fern, Cycas, Nandina, Mahonia, Chaenomeles, Sansevieria, Oxalis triangularis, Canna, Alpinia, dahlia, Strelitzia, etc.

(3) Management of courtyard flowers

    1. Management of field-planted courtyard flowers and trees

(1) Transplanting. March is the best time for transplanting and planting out field-planted flowers and trees. Among them, transplanting of plum blossom, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, Liriodendron, red maple, etc. should be arranged as much as possible before the plants sprout and leaf out; when transplanting evergreen flowers and trees, some pruning of branches and leaves should be done to reduce transpiration and improve the survival rate; for Chimonanthus, Lagerstroemia, redbud, Hibiscus syriacus, Aesculus, ornamental peach, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, etc., even after sprouting is fine, but appropriate pruning is still needed. Whether evergreen or deciduous trees, sufficient soil balls should be taken when transplanting; generally the diameter of the soil ball should be greater than 6 times the diameter of the trunk.

(2) Fertilizing. For field-planted flowers and trees that were not buried with fertilizer in winter, before they sprout, dig ring-shaped trenches around the outer perimeter of the root system, about 15 to 20 cm deep, and apply thoroughly composted cake fertilizer, manure, chicken and pigeon droppings, etc., or multi-element compound fertilizer, to lay a material foundation for their whole year of growth.

[page]    (3) Pruning. For plants that have not yet been pruned, especially plum blossom, Chimonanthus, Forsythia, winter jasmine, etc. after flowering, in addition to necessarily pruning off dead branches, pest-infested branches, and excessive flowering branches, one-year-old branches can be cut off at 2 to 3 cm from the base, retaining only 2 to 3 buds. Through severe renewal pruning, more new branches will sprout in spring and more flower buds will form in summer and autumn, favoring flowering the following year. For Camellia, Camellia sasanqua, etc., after flowering, prune off branches that damage the plant shape, and at the same time prune off some thin and weak branches and crossing branches in the inner canopy. For pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Osmanthus, etc. that form flower buds and bloom on new branches produced in the current year, pruning can be done in March to adjust the plant shape and improve the ventilation and light transmission of the plant.

(4) Pest and disease control. For branches and leaves on plants that have already been infected with pests or diseases, promptly cut them off and destroy them, which can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the current year; for some flowers and trees susceptible to pests and diseases, such as rose, papaya, Chaenomeles, grape, Malus halliana, etc., promptly spray Bordeaux mixture after leaf expansion to prevent the occurrence of powdery mildew and rust, etc.

    2. Management of field-planted courtyard herbaceous flowers

Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be transplanted and planted out in March include: Dianthus, snapdragon, Calendula, daisy, hollyhock, Malva, silver-edged Liriope, Zephyranthes, Zephyranthes candida, Iris, Reineckea, Ophiopogon, Liriope, Oxalis corymbosa, etc. For herbaceous flowers transplanted before February, or transplanted before the New Year, if the plants have resumed growth, such as ornamental kale, pansy, etc., first hoe weeds and loosen the soil, then apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as thoroughly composted odorless cake fertilizer water, 0.5% urea solution, or other quick-acting compound fertilizer solution.

    3. Management of courtyard potted flowers and trees

(1) Repotting. For potted Chimonanthus, plum blossom, Malus halliana, Chaenomeles, Pyracantha, Japanese white pine, Nandina, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Xylosma, Fraxinus chinensis, etc. placed outdoors, repot before they sprout and leaf out, replacing them with loose, fertile, fresh potting soil rich in organic matter, to lay a foundation for spring and summer growth. For indoor Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, rose, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Strelitzia, Cycas, poinsettia, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia, Belgian azalea, Ardisia, Citrus aurantium, Citrus medica, lemon, Monstera, Philodendron, Clivia, Syngonium, Syngonium, Maranta, etc., repot before moving them out.

(2) Hardening. In areas north of the Yangtze River basin, most potted flowers are still under indoor maintenance in March, and equal importance must be given to cold protection and ventilation. Because the weather this month is unstable and cold waves occasionally move south, in early and mid-March, insulation and cold protection work must continue; in late March, open the doors and windows of the room during the day for ventilation and close them at night, so that Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, Jasminum sambac, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, poinsettia, Monstera, Syngonium, Ficus elastica, Araucaria, etc. can gradually undergo hardening and adapt to the outdoor environment, avoiding premature sprouting that affects the current year's growth and normal flowering. For potted flowers north of the Yellow River, insulation and cold protection work still needs to continue this month, and care must not be relaxed.

(3) Pruning. For indoor Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, Fuchsia, Clerodendrum, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, Cycas, Ficus elastica, Caryota, Areca, Codiaeum, Asparagus fern, Begonia, etc., carry out necessary pruning together with repotting, including cutting off pest-infested branches, dead branches, misshapen branches, thin and weak branches, and some yellowed leaves. For Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus, Juniperus chinensis, Pinus hwangshanensis, black pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma, Syzygium buxifolium, etc. mainly appreciated for their tree stumps, wiring and pruning can also be done before sprouting in March to further improve their shape. For plum blossom, Chimonanthus, rose, ornamental peach, winter jasmine, Forsythia, etc., severe renewal pruning can be done after flowering and before sprouting.

(4) Flower species suitable for balcony planting

Urban residents cannot all have a small courtyard, nor can they all live on the first floor with a relatively good small flower-growing environment. More often, they grow some relatively resistant ornamental plants on balconies to decorate the interior, improve the living environment, and create for themselves an atmosphere of returning to nature.

Ornamental plants suitable for balcony planting: one category is relatively drought-tolerant plant types. Their surface or cuticle is thickened, or they are covered with wax, or the plant body is fleshy and thick with relatively more sap, or the leaves are relatively small and transformed into needle-like shapes with very little transpiration and water consumption, or they originate from arid desert regions and can withstand wind and heat, thus being very drought-tolerant, such as Cycas, Cactaceae (Opuntia microdasys, Cereus, Crassula, Echinocactus grunii, Trichocereus, Astrophytum, Aporocactus, Euphorbia tirucalli), Portulacaria, Crassula ovata, Graptopetalum, Echeveria, Lithops, Epiphyllum, Epiphyllum hybrid, Pereskia, Kalanchoe, etc. Also Chimonanthus, winter jasmine, Lycoris, Spathiphyllum, Aglaonema, Chlorophytum, etc. These flowers generally will not die if not watered for 2 to 3 weeks in spring, so they are relatively suitable for balcony planting. Another category is flower types that are relatively resistant to direct sunlight and dry hot winds, can accept full light, and can resist short periods of unusually high temperatures, and are also suitable for balcony potting (especially high-floor balconies), such as pomegranate, rose, Ficus, Ligustrum sinense, Agave, Hippeastrum, Sageretia, Xylosma, Ulmus parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, Adina, black pine, Juniperus, Sabina chinensis, Sabina chinensis cv. Kaizuca, Ilex cornuta, holly, Vitex, Euonymus, longevity peach, Portulaca, etc. In addition, Jasminum sambac, Chloranthus, Japanese white pine, Aglaia odorata, Aspidistra, Citrus medica, Citrus aurantium, lemon, Ficus elastica, Monstera, Philodendron, Camellia, Schefflera, Araucaria, etc. can also be used as slightly lower-level balcony potted plants, but water and shading management should be strengthened.

(1) Propagation of balcony potted flowers

Herbaceous flowers suitable for balcony potting, such as Salvia splendens, ornamental pepper, winter cherry, marigold, Impatiens, dwarf petunia, etc., can be sown and raised in shallow pots at this time.

If a small amount of Asparagus fern or Clivia seeds is collected, wash them clean, sow them indoors first, and when the outdoor temperature reaches about 15°C, move them to the outdoor balcony for cultivation.

Succulent plants such as Epiphyllum hybridum, night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum), jade plant (Crassula ovata), graptopetalum, Echeveria, Portulacaria afra, coral tree (Solanum pseudocapsicum), and Crassula species can be propagated at this time indoors by cuttings in plain sand or clean sandy loam, then moved to the balcony after spring returns and the weather warms up.

Use a large flowerpot filled with loose sandy loam, or vermiculite, perlite, etc. as the cutting medium, and propagate indoors on a windowsill with good light: gardenia, fuchsia, hibiscus, bougainvillea, podocarpus, punica (dwarf pomegranate), Chaenomeles speciosa, nandina, daphne, and Ardisia crenata, but the pot opening must be covered with plastic film to retain moisture.

On the balcony, when grafting five-needle pine, (Pinus thunbergii 'Zuisho'), plum blossom, longevity peach, red maple, wintersweet, etc., bagging to retain moisture is necessary, otherwise survival is difficult.

(2) Management of balcony potted flowers

    1. Cold protection. Most ornamental plant species suitable for balcony potting are still kept indoors in March. While taking measures such as heat preservation and cold protection, ventilation, and exposure to light, plants that need repotting should be repotted in a timely manner. For hardy flowers and trees placed on the balcony, the potting soil should be kept from freezing. If the potting soil freezes, it can easily cause frost heaving of potted flowers and trees, which will not only affect the normal growth of the plants that year, but in severe cases can cause plant death. Measures such as building a temporary shed on site or moving them indoors or into a shed for cold protection can be taken.

    2. Pruning. For tree stumps such as wintersweet, Ilex cornuta, holly, black pine, five-needle pine, podocarpus, trident maple, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, water willow (Adina rubella), and Ligustrum quihoui, pruning and shaping can be carried out. For trunks and branches that need styling, wiring and shaping can be done in March. For plants that have not been repotted for 2 to 3 years, soil can be replaced. For bonsai placed on the balcony, keep the potting soil moist, water once every 3 to 5 days, and spray water appropriately. For plum blossom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, wintersweet, longevity peach, camellia, etc., necessary shaping and pruning can be done after flowering to promote the maintenance of a good plant shape. Conduct a comprehensive cleanup of the plants, cut off branches and leaves infected with pests and diseases, and destroy them. For dry cut surfaces on tree stumps, apply lime sulfur mixture or similar for anti-corrosion treatment.

    3. Preparatory facilities. If conditions permit, a small water pool can be built on the balcony, with a hard board (precast reinforced concrete) placed on top. Use the humidity produced by evaporation from the pool. In summer, place some flowers that prefer humid air on it, such as orchids, Monstera deliciosa, giant taro (Philodendron 'Green Giant'), Xanthosoma 'Little Angel', Ardisia crenata, nandina, etc. The stored water is quite ideal for watering flowers.

    In March, before potted flowers are moved out, you can also first set up tiered racks on the balcony for placing potted flowers, and choose the support points for hanging shade nets in summer. Once potted flowers are moved out and encounter overly strong sunlight, shade measures can be quickly put in place.

    In March, you should also prepare potting soil for repotting, and stock up on various fertilizers and pesticides, etc., to meet the needs of balcony flower growing throughout the year.

Flower Planting Manual (April Chapter)

Weather characteristics of April: As the cold air moving south from the north weakens, the warm and humid air currents in the south become stronger and stronger, and temperatures rise significantly. After Qingming, although there are occasional influences of cold air moving south, for most potted flowers south of the Huai River they no longer pose a threat. Only in areas north of the Huai River and Yellow River is there still damage from snow and frost. By the time of Grain Rain, the late frost has ended in areas south of the Yangtze and Huai Rivers, the minimum temperature is not lower than 5°C, and rainfall increases noticeably. Most potted flowers can be moved outdoors for care; but in the Huaibei area, potted flowers can only be moved out after the late frost ends in May. In April, from south to north, flower activities include the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flowers suitable for sowing in April include: Cleome spinosa, four-o'clock (Mirabilis jalapa), cockscomb (Celosia cristata), Amaranthus tricolor, moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora), dahlia (small-flowered dahlia), Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, Impatiens balsamina, morning glory (Ipomoea), Quamoclit coccinea, Quamoclit pennata, Nicotiana tabacum, petunia, China aster (Callistephus chinensis), Coreopsis, Bidens bipinnata, marigold (Tagetes), red-yellow chrysanthemum, Zinnia, Asparagus setaceus, Primula obconica, Tropaeolum majus, Kochia scoparia, Hibiscus coccineus, Euphorbia heterophylla, basil (Ocimum basilicum), Asparagus cochinchinensis, Cosmos, Glehnia littoralis, Mimosa pudica, etc. Magnoliaceae flower and tree species that can be sown in April after sand storage include: Magnolia denudata, Magnolia amoena, Magnolia zenii, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia amoena (Tianmu magnolia), Magnolia wufengensis, Magnolia officinalis, Magnolia officinalis subsp. biloba, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia delavayi, Magnolia parapetalum, Manglietia, Manglietia insignis, Manglietia ruyuanensis, Manglietia grandis, Michelia champaca, Michelia figo, Michelia floribunda, Michelia chapensis, Michelia platypetala, Michelia foveolata, Michelia omeiensis, Liriodendron chinense, hybrid tulip tree, Liriodendron tulipifera, etc.; other greening flowers and trees that can be sown in

April include: Japanese fir (Abies firma), golden larch (Pseudolarix amabilis), Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla), golden larch (Pseudolarix kaempferi), crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica), redbud (Cercis chinensis), silk tree (Albizia julibrissin), Taxus chinensis, Pittosporum tobira, Chinese tallow tree (Triadica sebifera), Huangshan mountain ash (Sorbus hupehensis), soapberry (Sapindus mukorossi), sweetgum (Liquidambar formosana), maples (Acer spp.), Ormosia henryi, wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox), summer sweet (Calycanthus floridus), white plum (Exochorda racemosa), goji berry (Lycium chinense), nandina, Ardisia crenata, palm (Trachycarpus fortunei), etc.

Ornamental plants that can be sown in April immediately after collection include: Gerbera, Asparagus setaceus, primrose (Primula), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), Fatsia japonica, and naranjilla (Solanum mammosum). Among them, Fatsia japonica can have its blackened, whitish, softened fruits picked at the end of April, the seeds washed out by rubbing, and then sown on fertile seedling beds. Alternatively, the seeds can first be stored in sand until they crack and show white, then sown, covered with grass to retain moisture. Generally after about two weeks, when about 70% of the seeds have sprouted, the covering grass should be removed promptly, and a shade frame should be set up at the same time. For cultivating naranjilla, the picked golden-yellow fruits can have their outer skin peeled off, the seeds washed out, soaked in warm water for 24 hours, and sown in fertile sandy soil. After 10 days the seeds can germinate and emerge. When the seedlings grow 6 to 8 true leaves and reach a plant height of 15 cm, they can be transplanted. They can be potted for fruit viewing or field-planted and cultivated as special cut flower material.

   2. Grafting

Flower and tree species that can be grafted in April include: wintersweet, Sophora japonica 'Pendula', ornamental peach, longevity peach, black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia), as well as cactus and crab claw orchid (Schlumbergera).

    3. Division

Indoor foliage plants that can be propagated by division in April include: peace lily (Spathiphyllum), snake plant (Sansevieria), Aspidistra, ferns, Rhapis excelsa, spider plant (Chlorophytum), Agave, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Aglaonema, Aglaonema modestum, Calathea, aloe, Peperomia, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, etc. [remaining source text is corrupted]

    4. Cuttings

For most flower and tree species that root easily, as long as their leaf buds have not yet sprouted, they can be propagated by cuttings in April. The main species include: boxwood (Buxus), Mahonia, nandina, cypress (Cupressus), podocarpus, pomegranate, crape myrtle, redbud, firethorn (Pyracantha), Spiraea, tulip tree (Liriodendron), Spiraea thunbergii, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Chaenomeles speciosa, etc.

II. Repotting and transplanting

    1. For potted flowers that could not be repotted in March, as long as the new shoots are not too long, or if during repotting not too much old soil is removed and the root system is not excessively pruned, they can still be repotted in April. However, it should be pointed out: for deciduous flowers and trees, if the new shoots are too long, especially for plum blossom, they must absolutely not be repotted after the leaves have unfolded.

    2. April is the best period for transplanting outdoor flowers and trees. Whether deciduous or evergreen, as long as their leaf buds have not yet unfolded or the new shoots are not long, they can be transplanted with a soil ball in April. For evergreen flowers and trees such as camphor tree, Magnolia grandiflora, Michelia, and Michelia alba, part of the branches and leaves must be pruned away to reduce transpiration of water from the crown. For deciduous flowers and trees, it is best to transplant before the leaves unfold, such as Magnolia denudata, horse chestnut (Aesculus chinensis), linden (Tilia), crabapple, wintersweet, red-leaf plum, ornamental peach, plum, apricot, etc. Usually the diameter of the soil ball for transplanting flowers and trees should be no less than 6 times the diameter of the main trunk of the transplanted plant. Only in this way, without damaging the soil ball, can transplanted flowers and trees be free from worries.

III. Bonsai styling

April is one of the best periods for bonsai styling. The ornamental plants most suitable for beginners to practice styling are those with strong adaptability whose branches and trunks can withstand repeated twisting and wiring by beginners without seriously affecting their normal growth, such as podocarpus, sabina (Juniperus chinensis), Serissa japonica, water willow (Adina rubella), true cypress (Juniperus rigida), Euonymus alatus, crape myrtle, cypress cultivars, chamaecyparis, banyan (Ficus microcarpa), boxwood (Buxus sinica), Ulmus parvifolia, winter jasmine, Edgeworthia chrysantha, ginkgo, black pine, Chinese juniper (Sabina chinensis), etc. Other species suitable for styling in April include wild hawthorn, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, ornamental peach, firethorn, Cleyera japonica, Fraxinus chinensis, trident maple, Quercus acutissima, Cephalotaxus, Diospyros armata, Malus halliana, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), papaya (Chaenomeles), Elaeagnus, Ilex cornuta, golden larch, Damnacanthus indicus, etc.

As bonsai plants begin vigorous growth, metal wire or non-metal wire should be used in a timely manner for continuous wiring, traction, and correction, so that they can always maintain a good ornamental state. For the care of five-needle pine bonsai, special attention should be paid this month to the following three aspects: First, timely bud removal. When winter buds begin to swell and granular needle leaf primordia appear on them, 1/2 to 2/3 of the bud length can be removed to promote shorter and denser new shoots. Second, remove female and male cones. When needle fascicle buds and male and female cones can be distinguished on new shoots, promptly remove all female cones borne at the tips of new shoots and male cones located at the bases of new shoots, reducing nutrient consumption during reproductive growth. Third, control watering. From the beginning of new shoot elongation, watering must be strictly controlled, watering only when dry, replacing watering with misting, ensuring that the new needles are short and clustered, so that the branch pads remain flat and neat.

IV. Fertilization management

    1. Fertilization

For potted camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, rhododendron, winter jasmine, Forsythia, daphne, kumquat, bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), winter coral (Solanum pseudocapsicum), crab claw orchid, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium hybridum, Cymbidium sinense, Phaius tankervilleae, etc., because flowering or fruiting consumes a large amount of nutrients, when growth resumes after warm spring, topdressing with nitrogen-based fertilizer is needed, such as fully rotted dilute cake fertilizer liquid, to promote growth. For potted flower species about to bloom, such as rose (Rosa chinensis), redbud, pomegranate, Cymbidium ensifolium, hibiscus, and Michelia alba, topdressing should also be given, and the type can be monopotassium phosphate, etc., with concentration controllable at about 0.2%. For field-planted Magnolia denudata, Magnolia liliiflora, Michelia, plum blossom, wintersweet, crabapple, etc. after flowering, timely topdressing should also be applied to meet their vegetative growth needs.

    2. Shaping and care

Money tree (Pachira aquatica) can be braided in April. Dig up money tree seedlings that were sown or purchased, spread them in a cool place for 1 to 2 days to let them lose part of their moisture, and then braid the trunks in odd numbers of 3, 5, and 7 plants. After braiding, press with a heavy object to fix the shape before choosing a suitable pot to plant them. The money tree has extremely strong vitality; even if there is no time to process it into a braid or plant it, spreading it out for 3 to 5 days will not affect its survival and subsequent normal growth.

    3. Adjust plant shape and prevent diseases

For potted flowers moved outdoors, promptly remove dead branches, yellow leaves, and withered stems, adjust the plant shape, and strengthen water and fertilizer management. For flower species prone to diseases, promptly spray lime sulfur mixture or Bordeaux mixture to prevent possible diseases.

    4. Management of fruit-viewing potted plants

For potted fruit-viewing flowers and trees that bloom in April, such as papaya (Chaenomeles), ginkgo, firethorn, Aucuba japonica, Malus halliana, etc., especially dioecious or cross-pollinated species, during the flowering period, attention should be paid to creating favorable conditions for pollination and fertilization so that they can set fruit normally. Do not miss the good opportunity.

    5. Management of cutting beds

For newly cut ornamental plants, before they have formed callus tissue, special attention should be paid to water spraying and misting management. Apart from those with intermittent misting equipment, water (mist) must be sprayed 2 to 3 times a day to always keep the cutting medium moist, creating the best environment for callus formation and rooting.

Flower Planting Manual Summer

Flower Planting Manual (May Chapter)

Climate characteristics of May: Temperatures continue to rise, and rainfall gradually increases from south to north in China. After each rainfall, the temperature rises noticeably. There is often continuous spring rain. After the spring rain ends around Xiaoman, the weather turns muggy, marking the imminent arrival of summer. Therefore, May, at the turn of spring and summer, is a key period for growing flowers, and it plays an important role in laying the foundation for the summer and autumn growth of potted flowers. In May, flower growing from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

Flower and tree species that can be sown immediately after collection in May mainly include: Primula obconica, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), etc. When sowing and raising seedlings in May, pay attention to the following three points: First, keep the sowing bed moist, neither waterlogged nor overly dry and dehydrated. Second, cover the sowing bed with grass to retain moisture, to prevent sudden changes in wetness and dryness that cause seeds to "regress." Third, after emergence, remove the covering grass in several stages and set up shade in time to avoid scorching the seedlings.

For osmanthus, mature blue-black fruits can be picked at the end of May, mixed with sand and rubbed to remove the flesh, rinsed clean, and then stored in moist, clean fine sand until February of the following year. Only when the seeds crack and the radicle tip is exposed can they be sown in the ground. During storage, prevent rodents from stealing them and keep the sand moist.

When sowing loquat, the covering soil should not be too deep, generally no more than 2 to 3 cm.

    2. Cuttings

Flower species suitable for cutting propagation in May include: Salvia splendens (pink, purple, white), Gomphrena globosa (white), marigold, Tagetes patula, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, Begonia, sulfur cosmos, rose, rhododendron, dahlia, fuchsia, coral flower (Jatropha multifida), poinsettia, geranium, bougainvillea, hibiscus, Erythrina, Tropaeolum, Jasminum multiflorum, jasmine, Chloranthus, Acalypha wilkesiana, Deutzia, Hydrangea, Kerria japonica, pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Buddleja, Campsis, gardenia, night-blooming cereus, Epipremnum pinnatum, Epiphyllum hybridum, jade plant, graptopetalum, Magnolia sieboldii, Magnolia liliiflora, Chaenomeles speciosa, Cyperus alternifolius, Lantana camara, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Justicia brandegeeana, Pachystachys lutea, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Aglaonema modestum, Cordyline fruticosa, Epipremnum aureum, Schefflera, Nerium oleander, firethorn, Mahonia, and Buddha belly bamboo with aerial roots, etc.

    3. Grafting

In May, use potted 1- to 2-year-old Magnolia liliiflora seedlings or cuttings to graft and propagate Michelia alba and Michelia figo; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings for bud grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and weeping maple, etc.; use vigorous 2- to 3-year-old Rhododendron pulchrum cuttings to cleft graft Western azalea; use wild rose as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate superior rose cultivars; use Artemisia annua as rootstock to graft and propagate superior chrysanthemum cultivars; use 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock; softwood grafting of superior wintersweet cultivars, and potted rootstocks can also be used for grafting. In addition, cactus and triangular cactus can be used as rootstocks to graft and propagate crab claw orchid.

    4. Layering

Flower and tree species that can be propagated by air layering in May include: Michelia alba, rubber tree (Ficus elastica), Aglaia odorata, Western azalea, camellia, croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Michelia figo, red maple, etc.; those that can be propagated by ground layering include: plum blossom, wintersweet, rose, gardenia, podocarpus, osmanthus, Campsis, etc.

II. Potting and transplanting

    1. Potting

For potted flowers used for street decoration during National Day, most types must be potted and established in May. After 3 to 4 months of careful care, they can bloom on time by late September and early October, thereby creating a joyful, enthusiastic, and colorful holiday atmosphere. The main types include: Salvia splendens (pink, white, purple), Gomphrena globosa (white), cockscomb, Zinnia, sulfur cosmos, China aster, Kochia scoparia, marigold, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), Asparagus setaceus, Impatiens hawkeri, coleus, Begonia, etc.

    2. Transplanting

At the end of April and beginning of May, when Magnolia denudata has finished flowering and is just about to sprout and unfold leaves, transplanting gives the highest survival rate. Some flowers and trees that sprout later and are easy to transplant can also be transplanted with a soil ball and established in early May, such as crape myrtle, Hibiscus syriacus, redbud, pomegranate, silk tree, etc.

III. Flower management

    1. Watering

As temperatures continue to rise, the water demand of potted ornamental plants will gradually increase. In addition to combining root watering with foliar spraying, attention must also be paid to the quality of water used for irrigation and spraying. It is best not to use tap water directly, especially not tap water treated with bleaching powder. For this purpose, tap water can first be poured into a pool or small tank, and an appropriate amount of acidifying substance can be added to increase the acidity of the water, such as ferrous sulfate, with concentration controllable between 0.1% and 0.2%. Potted flower types suitable for acidic water mainly include: camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, rhododendron, Rhododendron simsii, gardenia, daphne, clivia, chrysanthemum, crabapple, Camellia chekiangoleosa, etc. Foliage types include: sago palm (Cycas revoluta), Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, ferns, podocarpus, croton, red (green) gem (Peperomia), giant taro (Philodendron 'Green Giant'), Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, bromeliads, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Schefflera, etc. Fruit-viewing types include: bitter orange (Citrus aurantium var. amara), firethorn, kumquat, Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis), lemon, nandina, winter coral, Ardisia crenata, etc.

    2. Pruning and bud removal

(1) Pruning. For the shortening pruning of Michelia alba not long after being moved outdoors, special attention must be paid because its branch pith is loose, and the cut surface easily loses water, dries up, and extends downward. For this reason, consider cutting 8 to 10 cm above the bud eye to be retained, and never cut too close to the bud eye. For pruning potted roses after flowering, the height should be moderately lowered by 10 to 20 cm, so that bud eyes in the middle of the branch can produce flower buds.

(2) Bud removal. For bud removal on potted wintersweet plants, attention should also be paid to the location of bud removal. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 cm above the selected leaf bud site; otherwise, the wound will dry and shrink, affecting the selected leaf bud downward. For roses potted that year, promptly remove the terminal buds to promote the formation of a good plant shape.

    3. Shading

After entering May, potted plants that prefer semi-shade or shade should be moved under a shade frame or under tree shade, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Rhapis excelsa, Calathea, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', pink taro (Caladium), Livistona, Syngonium podophyllum, orchids, rhododendron, Strelitzia reginae, camellia, sasanqua, etc. For light-loving flowers and trees, sufficient light must be given, such as wintersweet, sago palm, rose, firethorn, jasmine, Michelia alba, etc. Bonsai plants such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, trident maple, water willow, Quercus acutissima, Serissa japonica, black pine, and soft pine require sufficient light. Podocarpus, Damnacanthus indicus, Cleyera japonica, sabina, and five-needle pine can be appropriately shaded.

    4. Fertilization

For camellia, rhododendron, sasanqua, plum blossom, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Michelia alba, gardenia, wintersweet, rose, daphne, clivia, orchids, crabapple, etc., after flowering remove the residual flowers and withered stems respectively, and apply a compound fertilizer mainly of nitrogen and supplemented by phosphorus, once every half month. While restoring their vegetative growth, this lays a foundation for them to produce flower buds again. For mainly foliage types such as rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Aspidistra, ferns, etc., apply once every half month a fully rotted dilute cake fertilizer water. For foliage plants with colored spots or patterns, such as Sansevieria trifasciata 'Laurentii', colorful bromeliads, Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', croton, Caladium bicolor, Syngonium podophyllum 'White Butterfly', and pink taro, a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate solution can be applied as a foliar topdressing, which can make their leaf color appear even more beautiful and vivid.

    5. Pest and disease control

For rose, Rosa multiflora, and Rosa rugosa, pay attention to controlling powdery mildew and brown spot. For leaf-eating pests that appear, promptly spray pesticides to kill them. For common leaf-eating pests on bitter orange, kumquat, golden bean, Buddha's hand, lemon, and rue??? citrus swallowtail larvae, spray pesticides early to kill them.

IV. Bonsai styling

Ornamental bonsai plant species that can still be styled in May include: plum blossom, small-leaf gardenia, Gardenia jasminoides, podocarpus, Serissa japonica, sabina, water willow, Cephalotaxus, ginkgo, etc. It is worth noting that when styling, one must be careful and cautious, and try not to injure the bark and trunk, otherwise it will affect the normal growth of the plant.

Flower Planting Manual (June Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of June: By June, temperatures rise further. The Yangtze-Huai River basin enters the plum rain season. This year, plum rain begins on June 12 and ends on July 7. At this time, cold and warm air masses of equal strength meet in this region, causing frequent frontal or cyclonic activity. June is the season with the most rainfall in the year, often with long periods of continuous rain. For some flowers that are summer-dormant or semi-dormant and for most bonsai, care should be especially careful to avoid root rot caused by excessive rain, or excessive growth caused by insufficient light, which disrupts styling or affects normal flowering and fruiting of ornamental plants. In June, flower growing from south to north mainly includes the following:

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing

    Flower and tree species that can be sown in June include: primrose, lotus seeds, cycad (Cycas revoluta), loquat, wintersweet, etc. For wintersweet, when the pot-shaped fruit capsule on the mother tree turns from green to yellow, then from yellow to brown, and the seeds inside are brown, they can be picked. Promptly peel open the fruit capsule, remove the seeds, first soak them in cold water for 24 to 36 hours, and after the seeds absorb enough water and swell, bury them in clean moist sand to promote germination. After about 2 weeks, the seeds will crack and show white, and then sow them in furrows. The covering soil thickness is generally 2 cm to 3 cm, and straw is added to retain moisture. After most seeds' cotyledons emerge, remove the covering grass in 2 to 3 stages and set up shade in time.

    2. Cuttings

In summer, temperatures are high and humidity is high, and the cambium in flower and tree branches is highly active, making it the best time for cutting propagation of flowers and trees. There are two main categories of flowers and trees suitable for softwood cuttings in summer. One category is species that are difficult to root or root slowly from hardwood cuttings, such as osmanthus, camellia, Michelia figo, Ilex cornuta, holly, lilac, Magnolia liliiflora, Chaenomeles speciosa, snowball (Viburnum), Viburnum macrocephalum, coral tree, Erythrina, Belgian azalea, Buddha belly bamboo (with aerial roots), rubber tree, dawn redwood (Metasequoia), pond cypress (Taxodium ascendens), bald cypress (Taxodium distichum), etc. The other category is species that root relatively easily, such as boxwood, rose, firethorn, Forsythia, winter jasmine, Jasminum, Serissa japonica, pomegranate, Hibiscus syriacus, Caragana, jasmine, Chloranthus, Clerodendrum, Lantana camara, Kerria japonica, bougainvillea, Buddha's hand, lemon, podocarpus, nandina, Campsis, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, honeysuckle, hibiscus, Cordyline fruticosa, Hypericum, Hypericum, golden willow, dragon-claw willow, banyan, Dracaena fragrans, Ardisia crenata, Edgeworthia chrysantha, croton, Deutzia, Philadelphus, crape myrtle, Weigela florida, Weigela, Spiraea cantoniensis, peach coral types, Schefflera types, Mahonia types, Fatsia japonica, Spiraea thunbergii, Hydrangea, poinsettia, etc. It also includes a large number of other herbaceous flowers, such as Ipomoea cairica, Parthenocissus, Tropaeolum, Torenia, Compositae, Heliotropium, Cyperus alternifolius, geranium, coleus, Begonia, pansy, Gomphrena globosa, Zinnia, Tagetes patula, marigold, sulfur cosmos, etc.

Taking fully enclosed moisture-retaining cuttings of camellia and osmanthus as an example: the cutting time is from early June to mid-July, and it is ideal when the young branches of osmanthus and camellia are semi-lignified. The medium can be yellow subsoil, sandy loam, or vermiculite. The cuttings are current-year new shoots, 10 cm to 15 cm long, retaining only 2 to 3 leaves at the end. The lower cut is dipped for 10 seconds in 500 mg/kg No. 1 ABT rooting powder or naphthaleneacetic acid solution, briefly dried, and then inserted into the seedling bed. The insertion depth is 1/2 to 2/3 of the cutting length, with plant and row spacing of 2 cm x 8 cm. After watering thoroughly, set up bamboo arches on the bed, cover with plastic film, and press the edges firmly with mud. Set up double-layer shade for light blocking, keep the bed surface moist, control the temperature inside the film at about 30°C, and maintain humidity above 90%. Generally after one month, the cuttings will root abundantly.

    3. Grafting

Grafting: use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock to graft superior wintersweet cultivars; use potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock to graft Michelia alba, Michelia figo, etc. Bud grafting: use wild rose seedlings as rootstock to graft and propagate superior rose cultivars; use 1-year-old seedlings of apricot, peach, plum, etc. as rootstock for bud grafting to propagate longevity peach, ornamental peach, purple-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, Prunus japonica, plum blossom, Prunus triloba, etc.; use 1- to 2-year-old green maple seedlings as rootstock to graft and propagate red maple, feather maple, red maple, etc. Branch grafting: use camellia oleifera, Camellia chekiangoleosa, or single-petaled seedling camellia as rootstock for branch grafting of camellia and sasanqua; use 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among Rhododendron pulchrum as rootstock, and cleft graft or side graft Belgian azalea or Western azalea.

    4. Layering

    Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in June include: rhododendron, honeysuckle, Hydrangea, snowball flower, Viburnum macrocephalum, Weigela florida, oleander, osmanthus, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, lilac, gardenia, red maple, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus, jasmine, Michelia alba, etc.

    5. Division

    Flower species that can be propagated by division in June include: Boston fern (Nephrolepis), calla lily (after flowering), Buddha belly bamboo, Cyperus alternifolius, Rhoeo discolor, bromeliads, Haworthia, Aspidistra, spider plant, Acorus, Liriope 'Variegata', etc.

II. Seed collection and transplanting/establishing

    1. Seed collection

    Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in June include: Dianthus, cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), snapdragon, Silene armeria, Silene armeria, hollyhock, mallow, primrose, Calceolaria, Amaryllis (sow immediately after collection), etc.

    Flower and tree seeds that can be collected in June: after wintersweet seeds are collected, if nursery conditions do not permit, the extracted seeds can also be stored dry until the following spring for sowing, and this will not affect their germination rate. Peach, apricot, etc. should be sown immediately after collection, or their seeds can be sand-stored until they crack and germinate before field sowing. Osmanthus seeds collected in June should have the fleshy fruit skin removed, be washed clean, and stored in moist sand to promote after-ripening of the embryo. When they germinate, choose a nursery site for sowing.

    2. Transplanting, establishing, and potting

    In June, a considerable number of herbaceous flowers need transplanting, establishing, or potting, including: evening primrose, Cleome spinosa, Impatiens balsamina, Impatiens hawkeri, primrose, ornamental pepper, winter coral, Nicotiana tabacum, petunia, marigold, Tagetes patula, Zinnia, Gomphrena globosa, Salvia splendens, dragon's mouth flower (Antirrhinum), Kochia scoparia, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, red-green grass (Alternanthera), etc.

In summer, some large flowers and trees are no longer transplanted, to avoid affecting their survival rate and growth after transplanting. However, for some small flowering shrubs, such as Fatsia japonica, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia, Hypericum, gardenia, Ligustrum 'Variegatum', Berberis thunbergii 'Atropurpurea', boxwood, under special circumstances, transplanting with a soil ball is not out of the question, just as the old saying goes: "Transplant at any time, but do not let the tree know." However, after transplanting, misting and shading management should be strengthened.

III. Flower management

    1. Watering

    Watering potted flowers in June should pay attention to the following aspects: First, watering time, preferably at 10 a.m. or 5 p.m.; under general conditions, watering once a day is sufficient. Second, watering temperature, keeping irrigation water and potting soil temperature basically consistent. If the difference between water temperature and soil temperature is too great, it will stimulate the roots and leaves of potted flowers and thereby affect their growth. Third, combine watering and misting. In weather with no rain for several days, in addition to watering the pots, also spray water on the leaf surfaces and around the potted flowers to increase local humidity. If there is continuous cloudy weather, decide whether to water and mist according to the wetness or dryness of the potting soil.

Flower species that enter semi-dormancy or dormancy in summer. Semi-dormant ones include: Oxalis articulata, geranium, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, Begonia, etc. When the temperature reaches above 30°C, because their growth activity is very weak and metabolic level is low, watering should be reduced, and keeping the potting soil moist is sufficient. Deeply dormant types include: cyclamen, Lycoris, Ranunculus asiaticus, Dutch peony, etc. Under high temperatures, their aboveground stems and leaves wither and underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they overwinter in the soil in a dormant state through underground stems or tubers. Watering must be stopped for them, and they should be moved to a cool place, keeping the potting soil from becoming excessively dry.

[page]    If there is continuous rainfall, after the rain stops, comprehensively inspect the potted flowers. If standing water is found in the pots, pour it out as soon as possible, and after the potting soil dries, loosen the soil to avoid root rot. Alternatively, before heavy rain arrives, lay the potted flowers down, and after the rain stops, stand the potted flowers upright again.

    2. Fertilization

For vigorously growing species such as Monstera deliciosa, spider plant, Syngonium podophyllum, Calathea, Boston fern, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, sago palm, Aspidistra, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', rubber tree, Anthurium, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Rhapis excelsa, Norfolk Island pine, Dracaena fragrans, podocarpus, money tree, wintersweet, rose, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, daphne, rhododendron, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Lantana camara, Clerodendrum thomsoniae, Justicia brandegeeana, bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, pomegranate, crape myrtle, firethorn, etc., apply a fully rotted dilute cake fertilizer water once every half month. For species currently flowering, also apply an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to meet their needs for growth, flowering, and fruiting.

For those flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for succulent flower species such as jade plant, crab claw orchid, Haworthia, Senecio, Kleinia, Lampranthus, Stapelia, Sedum, when the temperature reaches above 35°C, fertilization should be stopped to avoid rot.

    3. Pruning and bud removal

(1) Pruning. For vigorously growing species such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, podocarpus, Fujian tea (Carmona retusa), true cypress, sabina, water willow, Chinese juniper, Ilex cornuta, holly, trident maple, Fontanesia, Tamarix, firethorn, etc., branches affecting the styling should be pruned or shortened early, which can keep the plant clearly layered and good-looking, and can promote more short shoots and new buds, forming a perfect shape early.

(2) Bud removal. For flowers such as Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus, and rose, promptly remove residual flowers and withered stems, and appropriately shorten the branches that have flowered, to promote the lower lateral branches or flower buds to bloom again. For flowers and trees such as Michelia alba, bitter orange, rhododendron, camellia, wintersweet, plum blossom, and crabapple, in order to promote a good plant shape and more flower buds, more flowers, and better flowers in the current or following year, pinch and remove buds on overly vigorous branches, suppress the growth of terminal and lateral shoots, and promote the sprouting of lateral buds.

    4. Shading

    In June, for flowers and trees that prefer shade or semi-shade, they must be moved under a shade frame to prevent damage to the plants from intense sunlight. Such as: hosta (Hosta), purple hosta (Hosta), Asparagus setaceus, camellia, sasanqua, rhododendron, Chloranthus, Strelitzia reginae, orchids, Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, ferns, Philodendron, Syngonium podophyllum, pink taro, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Epipremnum aureum, Peperomia, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Red Queen', Livistona, daphne, Aspidistra, spider plant, etc. For light-loving flower species, sufficient light must be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, firethorn, crape myrtle, jasmine, Serissa japonica, cycad, Chinese juniper, peach blossom, plum blossom, wintersweet, Ulmus parvifolia, Fujian tea, trident maple, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, holly, water willow, Quercus acutissima, black pine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, rose, Mahonia, grape, etc. Podocarpus, Damnacanthus indicus, nandina, Buddha belly bamboo, Bambusa multiplex, five-needle pine, and Podocarpus macrophyllus can be given appropriate shade.

    5. Pest and disease control

(1) Chinese juniper, sabina, Ulmus parvifolia, papaya (Chaenomeles), firethorn, podocarpus, crabapple, etc. are prone to damage by trunk-boring longhorn beetles, and poison sticks should be used promptly to block and control them.

(2) Rose, Rosa multiflora, and Rosa rugosa are prone to powdery mildew and brown spot during the plum rain season, and Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed early for control.

(3) Michelia alba, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. are prone to aphid damage, and suitable pesticides should be selected early for spraying and killing.

(4) Orchid leaves are prone to anthracnose infection, and fungicides such as carbendazim should be sprayed early for control.

(5) Bitter orange, lemon, kumquat, Buddha's hand, etc. have tender leaves prone to feeding by citrus swallowtail larvae, and contact insecticides, stomach poisons, and other pesticides can be sprayed to kill them.

IV. Bonsai styling

Plant species that can be styled in June are mainly woody ornamental plants with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they must be plants potted in early spring for hardening or field-planted. They are: podocarpus, winter jasmine, Elaeagnus, Huashan pine, sabina, Chinese juniper, Ilex cornuta, holly, goji berry, five-needle pine, Malus halliana, Malus spectabilis, plum blossom, ornamental peach, trident maple, Serissa japonica, black pine, boxwood (Buxus sinica), Ulmus parvifolia, Tamarix, water willow, true cypress, ginkgo, Fontanesia, firethorn, etc. Styling in June must be careful, with light wiring and slow tying. Never rush or use excessive force.

    Solar terms in June: June 5 Grain in Ear; June 21 Summer Solstice.

Flower Planting Manual (July Chapter)

Weather characteristics of July: On July 7, the plum rain weather ends in the Yangtze-Huai region. July 16 is the start of the dog days, and August 15 is the end of the dog days. Most parts of the country enter the hottest period of the year. The average July temperature in most parts of China is above 24°C, and in areas south of the Yangtze and Huai Rivers it is 28°C. Only in northern Northeast China and on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau is the average July temperature below 20°C. July flower management mainly includes the following:
I. Flower propagation
    1. Sowing
    Herbaceous flowers that can be sown in July include: cineraria (Pericallis), Primula obconica, ornamental kale, campanula, etc. When sowing, attention should be paid to moisture retention, shading, and increasing ventilation and light transmission.
    In July, you can also harvest ripe fruits of Japanese apricot, peach, mountain peach, and flowering almond, etc. After washing off the flesh, sow the seeds in furrows immediately, or store the washed stones in moist sand until they crack, then sow. Wintersweet seeds can be sown right after harvest, or the seeds extracted from the fruit capsules can be dried and stored until the following spring for sowing, without affecting their germination rate.
    2. Cuttings
    In July, the herbaceous flowers suitable for cutting propagation include: Scutellaria barbata, begonias, coleus, Pilea cadierei, scarlet sage, marigold, French marigold, globe amaranth, geranium, Aster novi-belgii, purple loosestrife, umbrella plant, Boston ivy, Justicia carnea, peperomia, Rhaphidophora pinnata, Polygonum chinense, kalanchoe, and pothos, etc.
    In July, the woody flowering plants suitable for cutting propagation include: Excoecaria cochinchinensis, nandina, poinsettia, crown of thorns, Hypericum monogynum, Hypericum kouytchense, Weigela florida, hydrangea, Weigela florida, Spiraea cantoniensis, Spiraea thunbergii, Daphne odora, gardenia, Edgeworthia chrysantha, Magnolia sieboldii, bougainvillea, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Mahonia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, hibiscus, firethorn, Cordyline fruticosa, Chinese hibiscus, Serissa foetida, Michelia figo, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree, Viburnum macrocephalum, Viburnum macrocephalum f. keteleeri, boxwood species, fig, Magnolia liliiflora, osmanthus, rhododendron species, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Salix babylonica var. tortuosa, Salix babylonica 'Chrysocoma', etc. Amaryllis can also be propagated by scale cuttings.
In addition, in July, some flowering trees and shrubs can also be propagated by water cuttings. They are: gardenia, oleander, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, fig, pomegranate, fuchsia, crape myrtle, hibiscus, etc. To propagate flowering trees and shrubs by water cuttings, first, prepare a thick foam plastic board 1 cm to 2 cm thick, punch holes in it and use it as fixing material for the cuttings; second, keep the water used for cuttings clean, and add a few pieces of charcoal to prevent decay.
    3. Grafting
One-year-old seedlings of mountain peach or peach can be used as rootstock, and ornamental peach, red-leaf peach, Japanese apricot, flowering almond, red-leaf plum, and can be propagated by bud grafting; using cuttings of wild rose, Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis, and 'Ten Sisters' as rootstock, bud graft improved varieties of Chinese rose, cut-flower Chinese rose, and rose; using potted Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, *graft Michelia alba and Michelia figo; using potted 2-year-old seedling wintersweet as rootstock, *graft superior varieties of wintersweet; also using 2-year-old wintersweet seedlings as rootstock, adopt the method of green-twig side grafting with bagging for moisture retention, grafting at 3 cm to 4 cm above the ground, and after 7 to 10 days you can determine whether it has survived; using 'Purple Butterfly' and 'Jade Butterfly' among Rhododendron pulchrum as rootstock, cleft graft or side graft to propagate Belgian azalea or Western azalea; using cherry seedlings as rootstock, bud graft superior varieties of flowering cherry; using current-year seedling of Malus baccata, Malus hupehensis, Malus halliana, or Malus spectabilis as rootstock, perform "T"-shaped budding to propagate superior varieties of crabapple; using Acer palmatum seedlings as rootstock, bagged grafting to propagate red maple, feather maple, and other seedlings.
    4. Layering
    In July, the flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering include: Aglaia odorata (air layering), wintersweet, honeysuckle, hydrangea, Chinese trumpet creeper, Viburnum macrocephalum, oleander, Weigela florida, broom, osmanthus, gardenia, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, climbing Chinese rose, winter jasmine, etc.
    5. Division
    In July, the ornamental plants that can be propagated by division include: hosta, purple hosta, Acorus species, umbrella plant, Aspidistra elatior, Tradescantia spathacea, bromeliads, Haworthia, spider plant, Liriope species, Reineckea carnea, Zephyranthes candida, Nephrolepis cordifolia, iris, Tradescantia zebrina, etc. II. Seed collection and transplanting and planting out
    1. Seed collection
    In July, the herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: hollyhock, malva, morning glory, baby's breath, petunia, phlox, foxglove, Sanvitalia procumbens, sweet pea, daisy, delphinium, pansy, Lampranthus spectabilis, etc.
    In July, the flowering tree and shrub seeds that can be collected include: wintersweet, Japanese apricot, peach, mountain peach, flowering almond, etc.
    2. Transplanting, planting out, and potting up
    July is the main period for potting up herbaceous flowers displayed during the National Day holiday. At this time, the herbaceous flowers transplanted and potted can be seedlings from sowing or cuttings. After 3 months of careful maintenance, they will bloom right around the National Day period for holiday decoration. They are mainly: scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, globe amaranth, dahlia, Impatiens hawkeri, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, Kochia scoparia, China aster, sulfur cosmos, cockscomb, etc.
    In July, trees are generally not transplanted, but under some special circumstances, transplanting some flowering shrubs with soil balls is also feasible, such as Mahonia, Hypericum monogynum, Ligustrum sinense 'Variegatum', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Aucuba japonica, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' balls, etc. However, targeted pruning must be done, shade shelters should be built in time, and the frequency of water spraying should be increased. After they basically survive, shift to normal management, and do not be careless.
III. Flower management
    1. Watering
For flower species that enter semi-dormancy under high temperatures, such as Oxalis corymbosa, geranium species, fuchsia, clivia, calla lily, begonia species, sedum, kalanchoe, cactus species, Haworthia cooperi, Stapelia grandiflora, Senecio rowleyanus, Senecio radicans, Daphne odora, Christmas cactus, Portulacaria afra, aloe, etc., because the temperature is too high, their growth activity basically stops and their metabolic level is very low. Watering should be reduced, the potting soil should be kept moist, and attention should be paid to shading and ventilation to create a relatively cool environment for them. If watered too much, it easily causes root rot and also seriously affects their recovery growth after autumn.
For flower species that enter deep dormancy under high temperatures, such as cyclamen, Lycoris species, Ranunculus asiaticus, Dicentra spectabilis, etc., in July their aboveground stems and leaves wither and their underground nutrient fibrous roots die, and they overwinter in the soil as underground stems or tuberous roots. For deeply dormant flowers, stop watering, move them to a cool place, and just keep the potting soil not too dry.
For vigorously growing flower species, especially foliage plants, such as sago palm, Aspidistra elatior, Monstera deliciosa, rubber tree, Michelia alba, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Chloranthus spicatus, Norfolk Island pine, Calathea species, Syngonium species, red (green) gem, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', Dieffenbachia, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Aucuba japonica, Pyracantha, bitter orange, lemon, Podocarpus macrophyllus, pomegranate, redbud, wisteria, Chinese rose, etc., not only should the amount and frequency of watering be increased, but also appropriate leaf spraying should be given, combining spraying and watering. Especially during continuous cloudy days, because the temperature is relatively high and the air is dry, watering and spraying should also be given, and you must not be negligent. Once the potting soil is found to be too dry and the leaves wilted, first spray the leaves, and after the leaves recover and stand up, then water the roots. Do not pour water heavily at the roots, otherwise it is very easy to cause woody flowering plants to "drop green leaves," or cause the plant's nutrient fibrous roots to rot, and even cause the plant to die.
For potted plum bonsai, because July to August is their flower bud differentiation period, appropriate "water restriction" should be given to promote normal flower bud differentiation. The method is: keep the leaves on both sides of the potted plant slightly curled inward to control vegetative growth; if the vegetative growth of the branches cannot be controlled, when the second new shoot sprouts 2 to 3 leaves, keep only one leaf at the base and pinch off the rest. Flower buds can still differentiate in the leaf axil of this leaf.
    In July, when watering potted flowers, avoid the few hours around noon. Watering before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. is advisable, so as to avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature, which affects the growth of potted ornamental plants. If continuous rainy weather occurs this month, check the flower pots promptly after the rain. If water accumulates in the pots, pour it out in time, and after the potting soil is slightly dry, loosen the soil once more, so as to avoid root rot of potted plants.
    2. Fertilizing
    In July, there are four major categories of ornamental plants for which fertilization management should be strengthened. First, species with especially long flowering periods, blooming from spring and summer into autumn, such as Magnolia denudata, Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, etc.; second, species that bloom profusely in autumn, such as chrysanthemum, osmanthus, cotton rose, etc.; third, species for viewing flowers and fruits in winter, such as bitter orange, nandina, wintersweet, rhododendron, etc.; fourth, foliage plants, such as Rhapis excelsa, Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, rubber tree, etc. As for the types of fertilizer, for the first three categories, in addition to applying necessary nitrogen fertilizer, an appropriate amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied to meet the plants' comprehensive needs for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, and to provide sufficient nutritional guarantee for their budding, flowering, and fruiting; for foliage plants, thin cake fertilizer liquid or urea solution should be the main choice. As for the fertilization method, thin liquid fertilizer applied by watering is preferable.
    In July, the herbaceous flowers for which fertilization should be strengthened include: scarlet sage (white, purple, pink), cockscomb, China aster, crape myrtle, globe amaranth, chrysanthemum, black-eyed Susan, petunia, Pachystachys lutea, shrimp plant, Cymbidium ensifolium, marigold, four o'clock flower, dragon's mouth flower, etc. Woody flowers include: crape myrtle, pomegranate, poinsettia, Michelia figo, osmanthus, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, night-blooming jasmine, Chinese rose, crabapple species, Brunfelsia, bougainvillea, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, wintersweet, hibiscus, cotton rose, etc. There are many kinds of foliage plants, such as bromeliads, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, Norfolk Island pine, Syngonium, Calathea, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red gem, sago palm, rubber tree, Monstera deliciosa, Cordyline fruticosa, etc.
   In July, for ornamental plants in dormant or semi-dormant, fertilization must be stopped. Especially for succulent ornamental plants, such as sedum species, Senecio articulatus, Lampranthus spectabilis, Stapelia variegata, etc., fertilization must be stopped to prevent the plants from rotting.
    3. Pruning and bud pinching
Ornamental plants that can be tip-pruned and pinched in summer must be species that grow vigorously, have strong sprouting ability, and tolerate pruning. Pinching means directly removing the young apical buds at the tips with the fingers. The main bonsai plants suitable for pinching include: Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Syzygium buxifolium, Euonymus bungeanus, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, wintersweet, firethorn, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Tamarix chinensis, Elaeagnus pungens, Adina rubella, Vitex negundo, Forsythia, Celtis sinensis, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Fraxinus chinensis, Acer buergerianum, crape myrtle, Serissa foetida, Murraya paniculata, etc. Pruning means using scissors to cut off part of the new shoots to promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds, so that they form beautiful crown pieces or tree shapes. The bonsai plant species suitable for pruning are mostly woody ornamental plants that are inconvenient for finger pinching, such as Juniperus rigida, Platycladus orientalis, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Xylosma racemosum, Ilex cornuta, Sabina chinensis 'Pyramidalis', etc.
For potted flower species that continue flowering for a long time, such as Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, etc., their faded flowers and withered stems should be removed in time, and the branches that have flowered should be shortened and pruned as necessary, which can promote the sprouting of lower lateral buds and reblooming. For rhododendron, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, crabapple, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, etc., overly long branches protruding from the crown should also be shortened and pruned to form a better crown shape.
    4. Shading
    July is the month with the strongest sunlight and the highest temperature of the year, so special attention should be paid to shading management for potted ornamental plants.
For ornamental plants that like shade or partial shade, they must be moved under a shade shed to avoid damage to the plants from direct sunlight. Such as ferns, hosta, purple hosta, Monstera deliciosa, camellia, Camellia sasanqua, rhododendron, Chloranthus spicatus, bird of paradise, orchids, Rhapis excelsa, rubber tree, red (green) gem, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Dieffenbachia, pothos, peperomia species, Aspidistra elatior, Tradescantia zebrina, Dracaena fragrans, Rhaphidophora pinnata, bromeliads, Calathea species, Reineckea carnea, etc.
For light-loving species, sufficient light can be given, such as pomegranate, wisteria, crape myrtle, firethorn, jasmine, Serissa foetida, sago palm, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, peach, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Acer buergerianum, black pine, Adina rubella, Xylosma racemosum, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, etc. For Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, Michelia figo, Damnacanthus indicus, asparagus fern, Bambusa multiplex, five-needle pine, etc., it is necessary to give appropriate shading.
For small, miniature, and shallow-pot bonsai, because the temperature this month is too high and the air is relatively dry, in addition to necessary shading, the flower pots must also be buried in wet sand. This can reduce evaporation from the potting soil surface and also help protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots.
    5. Flowers in air-conditioned rooms
In air-conditioned rooms, choose flower species with relatively highly leathery leaves, or leaves covered with a relatively thick cuticle, somewhat tolerant of dry environments, and with strong resistance, such as rubber tree, Fatsia japonica, Mahonia, sago palm, Norfolk Island pine, Hibiscus syriacus, Livistona chinensis, Rhapis excelsa, Canary Island date palm, bromeliads, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, Schefflera octophylla, Aspidistra elatior, Aucuba japonica, etc., and it is not advisable to choose Nephrolepis cordifolia, coleus, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, etc. In addition, during management, attention should be paid to combining watering and spraying, and keeping them away from air-conditioner vents to prevent the wind from directly blowing on the plants and causing their leaf tips to wither and leaf margins to scorch.
    6. Pest and disease control
(1) When orchid new buds unfold their leaves in July, the leaf tips are susceptible to anthracnose, which gradually spreads to the whole plant and in severe cases can cause the plant to wither and die. This disease can occur throughout the year, and poor ventilation, high temperature and high humidity, and continuous rainy weather are more conducive to the reproduction and spread of the pathogen. Ventilation should be strengthened, and during the onset period spray 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder 800 times solution or 500 times solution for control.
(2) When reddish-brown sawdust-like insect frass accumulates on the stumps or main trunks of Japanese apricot, peach, crabapple species, red-leaf plum, flowering cherry, flowering almond, etc., it is mostly caused by the larvae of the peach red-necked longhorn beetle boring and feeding. Methods such as manual removal and killing, injection of systemic insecticides, insertion of poisoned plugs, and soil burial of carbofuran can be used for control, and can effectively kill the larvae inside the trunk. Note that when injecting pesticides, avoid dimethoate, omethoate, etc., to prevent phytotoxicity.
(3) In July, promptly control the boxwood leafroller moth that damages Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia 'Jinshue,' Buxus sempervirens, and Buxus sinica var. parvifolia 'Zhenzhu.' When this pest occurs severely, it can chew all the leaves bare. Once found, promptly spray pesticides such as trichlorfon, dimethoate, or fenvalerate. If a certain pesticide has been used for a long time and the pest has developed resistance, switch to a new type of pesticide.
(4) In July, in some areas, citrus swallowtail butterfly larvae will continue to damage the young shoot leaves of bitter orange, kumquat, Glycine max, finger citron, lemon, Citrus wilsonii, and rue, etc., and stomach-poison insecticides should be sprayed promptly to kill them.
(5) For the white wax insect that damages Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum quihoui, and Fraxinus chinensis, late July to late August is its emergence period. The right time should be chosen to spray pesticides such as Supracide for control, which can prevent the white wax insect from causing damage again the next year.
(6) The Japanese wax scale is a major pest damaging Euonymus japonicus, Platanus orientalis, Pittosporum tobira, camellia, red-leaf plum, deodar cedar, etc. In severe cases, the insect bodies often cover branches and leaves. Early July is the peak hatching period of its nymphs, and pesticides such as dimethoate and Supracide can be sprayed promptly for control.
IV. Bonsai styling
    In July, because the temperature is high, the air humidity is low, and plants are in a period of vigorous growth, branches are prone to infection by pathogens after injury and are not easy to heal and recover. Most tree stump species are no longer suitable for wiring and styling. Those that can still be styled are some plant species with strong adaptability and tolerance to wiring, and they must be plants that were potted in spring for hardening off or planted in the ground. They are: winter jasmine, ginkgo, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Thujopsis dolabrata, Calocedrus macrolepis, Serissa foetida, black pine, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Adina rubella, etc.
    In July, plant styling should be careful and meticulous, wiring gently and slowly, applying force gradually, and must not be done hastily or with too much force, otherwise it is very easy to cause the plant's branches and trunk to break, endangering its survival.
    Solar terms in July: July 7, Minor Heat; July 23, Major Heat.

Flower Planting Manual: Autumn

Flower Planting Manual (August Volume)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
    August has high temperatures, strong light, and low humidity, and is the hot, dry period second only to July in the year. The monthly average temperature in most parts of the country is between 24°C and 28°C. The potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards are some light-loving or heat-tolerant species. Among them, the main woody flowering plants are: Norfolk Island pine, black pine, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, whitebark pine, Japanese fir, Huashan pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Fagraea ceilanica, Cinnamomum kotoense, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Chinese hibiscus, Lantana camara, coral tree (Erythrina), Dutch iron, croton, Dracaena fragrans, Rhapis excelsa, money tree, Schefflera actinophylla, plumeria, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', oleander, Washington palm, palm, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Chinese rose, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Impatiens, Canna generalis, Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', scarlet sage, dahlia, China aster, Begonia maculata, dragon's mouth flower, marigold, French marigold, phlox, ornamental pepper, California poppy, cockscomb, calendula, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, four o'clock flower, crape myrtle, etc. In addition, there are also Aspidistra elatior, Aglaonema modestum, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Monstera deliciosa, pothos, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. In August, the woody flowering plants that can be sown include: tree peony, flowering almond, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Calycanthus chinensis, Calycanthus floridus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. They can be sown right after harvest, or the seeds can be stored in moist sand until they crack and show white, then sown in the ground. Canary Island date palm can be sand-stored to promote germination and then sown in bags. Ornamental pomegranate is harvested after the fruit ripens and cracks, rubbed and washed to remove the fleshy layer outside the seeds, sand-stored until germination, and then sown. Herbaceous flowers that can be sown include: baby's breath, Scabiosa, petunia, snapdragon, coneflower, Oxalis species, yarrow, nasturtium, pyrethrum, etc. Greenhouse flowers that can be sown include: Calceolaria, cyclamen, cineraria, wax begonia, Primula obconica, coleus, calendula, etc.
2. Cuttings. Using a mixed substrate prepared from alkaline-removed rice husk ash and moist fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, and conducting moisture-retaining bed cuttings or pot cuttings, the following flowering trees and shrubs can be propagated: firethorn, Mahonia species, wintersweet, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, Erythrina, Aglaia odorata, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, Chinese hibiscus, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, rubber tree, Osmanthus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Schefflera species, Cordyline fruticosa, hydrangea, Magnolia liliiflora, etc. Using yellow subsoil, sandy loam, etc. as the substrate, boxwood species, pomegranate, hibiscus, French holly, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, nandina, fig, oleander, crape myrtle, Serissa foetida, Spiraea, Spiraea thunbergii, gardenia, etc. can be propagated by cuttings. In addition, herbaceous flowers such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, and sulfur cosmos can also be propagated by cuttings this month.
3. Grafting. In August, the following flowering trees and shrubs can be grafted: in northern regions, use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock and *graft osmanthus; use Magnolia liliiflora and Magnolia denudata as rootstock, bud graft Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock, *graft Michelia alba; use current-year peach seedlings as rootstock, bud graft Japanese apricot, ornamental peach, longevity peach, purple-leaf peach, double-flowered dwarf flowering plum, flowering almond, etc.; use cherry seedlings as rootstock, bud graft Japanese flowering cherry; use wild rose, Rosa multiflora var. cathayensis, etc. as rootstock, bud graft superior varieties of Chinese rose; use seedlings of Malus baccata, Malus asiatica, Malus hupehensis, etc. as rootstock, bud graft Malus micromalus and Malus halliana; use green maple as rootstock, change the crown and graft red maple and feather maple; use single-trunk rubber tree as rootstock, branch graft Ficus benjamina 'Variegata'; use single-petal camellia as rootstock, branch graft superior varieties of camellia; use seedling wintersweet as rootstock, branch graft and *graft superior varieties of wintersweet flowers. In addition, cleft grafting can also be used to propagate large-flowered wisteria.
4. Layering. In August, ornamental plants that can be propagated by layering include: honeysuckle, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksian rose, climbing Chinese rose, Weigela florida, hydrangea, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, oleander, gardenia, broom, winter jasmine, Forsythia, Chaenomeles speciosa, Malus halliana, Malus micromalus, osmanthus species, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Michelia figo, Chinese hibiscus, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Viburnum odoratissimum, rubber tree (air layering), Aglaia odorata (air layering), red maple (air layering), etc.
5. Division. In August, ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Reineckea carnea, hosta, purple hosta, Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', bromeliads, Polygonatum odoratum, Aspidistra elatior, umbrella plant, Adina pilulifera, red (green) gem, iris, Belamcanda chinensis, Oxalis triangularis, Aglaonema modestum, Aster novi-belgii, Acorus gramineus, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Calathea species, Syngonium, Haworthia, etc. In addition, Lycoris, calla lily, freesia, etc. can also have their small bulbs divided and planted this month.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. In August, when transplanting some flowering shrubs with large soil balls and supplemented by heavy pruning, shade, watering, spraying, and other management should be strengthened after transplanting, which can achieve a relatively high survival rate, such as Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Platycladus orientalis 'Aureum,' Buxus sinica 'Aureovariegata', Hypericum monogynum, Mahonia, Fatsia japonica, Chinese rose, rhododendron, gardenia, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Michelia figo, Sabina chinensis 'Kaizuca' balls, Sabina komarovii balls, boxwood balls, pomegranate, hibiscus, Aucuba japonica, French holly, etc. In the courtyard, herbaceous flowers can also be transplanted and planted out, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, cockscomb, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, etc., and they can be expected to bloom between September and October.
2. Pruning. In August, for the roadside hedges in the courtyard such as boxwood, Ligustrum sinense, Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, etc., pruning should continue. For ground-planted ball-shaped plants, such as Photinia, Sabina chinensis, Sabina komarovii, bayberry, firethorn, Pittosporum tobira, Ilex cornuta, holly, etc., pruning must also be done again. For ground-planted flowering trees and shrubs that continue blooming for a long time, such as Chinese rose, pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, Lantana camara, etc., faded flowers should be removed in time, and the branch tips should be shortened and pruned appropriately. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, French marigold, marigold, etc., tip pruning and pinching should be carried out.
3. Watering. In August, for flowering shrubs transplanted in spring and herbaceous flowers planted out, watering and spraying management should be strengthened. For plants whose trunks are tied with straw ropes, the straw ropes should be sprayed wet to ensure that the plants do not show wilting of new shoots and tender leaves. Spray more and water cautiously to ensure no water accumulation at the roots.
4. Fertilizing. In August, for ground-planted red-flowered Loropetalum, Buxus sinica 'Aureovariegata', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Prunus x cistena, croton, Acalypha wilkesiana, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata', etc., in order to keep the leaf color bright for a long time, apply quick-acting fertilizer with a relatively balanced three elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For species that continue blooming, such as Chinese rose, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', flowering pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, bougainvillea, dahlia, Lantana camara, etc., as well as species about to bloom, such as osmanthus, chrysanthemum, cotton rose, autumn peony, etc., promptly apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, etc. that are in flower bud differentiation, a small amount of monopotassium phosphate solution can be sprayed by leaf fertilization.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, for scale insects occurring on deodar cedar, Ligustrum lucidum, Pittosporum tobira, osmanthus, crape myrtle, Photinia, camellia, etc., promptly spray 40% Supracide 1500 times solution for control. For chrysanthemum beetles, aphids, etc. occurring on ground-planted chrysanthemums, spray 90% trichlorfon crystal 1000 times solution to kill them. For larvae such as rose sawfly and cotton leafworm that chew Chinese rose leaves, promptly spray 10% fenvalerate 1000 times solution for control.
6. Seed collection. In August, woody flowering plant species whose seeds can be collected include: tree peony, flowering almond, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Calycanthus chinensis, etc. Herbaceous flowers whose seeds can be collected include: peony, moss rose, four o'clock flower, phlox, California poppy, snow-in-summer, etc.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In August, water between 9 and 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m., keeping the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature and air temperature. For ornamental plant species that like acidity, add 0.1% ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water. It is worth noting that for ornamental plants with dense hairs on the leaf surface, such as Calceolaria, Gloxinia, Begonia masoniana, Begonia rex, etc., water droplets that fall on the leaves are not easy to evaporate and can easily cause leaf rot, so only a small amount of misting can be done; the leaf rosette flower buds of Gerbera (African daisy) and the center of the clivia leaf rosette also must not be sprinkled with water, because dirty water flowing into the leaf rosette can cause heart rot; for bromeliads, water less and spray more, and inject water into the leaf tank to meet their needs. This month, while watering and spraying potted plants, be sure to loosen the soil, once every 10 days, otherwise repeated watering will cause the potting soil to compact. For flower species in dormant and semi-dormant states, control watering and spraying, just maintain the potting soil slightly moist, and create a relatively cool and moist environment by spraying water around the flower pots.
2. Fertilizing. In August, for foliage plants, such as Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, rubber tree, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Rhapis excelsa, red (green) gem, Norfolk Island pine, Queen palm, Phoenix roebelenii, Areca palm, Caryota, Livistona chinensis, pothos, Dracaena fragrans, Dutch iron, money tree, Nephrolepis cordifolia, Pandanus tectorius, Fagraea ceilanica (African jasmine), Cinnamomum kotoense (Ping'an wood), Syngonium, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', poinsettia, Dieffenbachia, Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica, Chamaedorea elegans, croton, Fatsia japonica, etc., apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer, such as urea solution, special flower fertilizer, or cake fertilizer water. For species with long flowering periods, such as Chinese rose, Michelia alba, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, Osmanthus fragrans 'Semperflorens', Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', bougainvillea, Lantana camara, etc., as well as fruit-viewing bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, lemon, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, Diospyros armata, fruit pomegranate, nandina, papaya, etc., in addition to ensuring nitrogen supply, also apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, such as monopotassium phosphate, etc. For potted herbaceous flowers that bloom in autumn, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, early chrysanthemum, marigold, French marigold, dragon's mouth flower, China aster, chrysanthemum, miniature sunflower, etc., apply thin liquid fertilizer once every half month to ensure lush leaves and abundant flowers after autumn. For flowering plant species in flower bud differentiation, such as camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Japanese apricot, osmanthus, rhododendron, etc., apply low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to the leaves. When applying organic fertilizer to ornamental plants, do not let the fertilizer liquid drip on the leaves, so as to avoid leaf rot. To be safe, spray the leaves once promptly after fertilizing to wash away fertilizer droplets that may adhere to the leaves. For ornamental plant species in dormant and semi-dormant states, such as clivia, wax begonia, calla lily, cyclamen, Daphne odora, aloe, kalanchoe, Portulacaria afra, Christmas cactus, sedum species, Oxalis triangularis, cactus species, cactus ball species, etc., stop all forms of topdressing, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot or death of the plants.
3. Shading. In August, the summer heat is still strong, and shading management for courtyard potted flowers is still very important. For ornamental plant species that like cool conditions, such as Monstera deliciosa, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Philodendron 'Little Angel', rubber tree, Areca palm, Philodendron 'Green Giant', Syngonium, Calathea species, red (green) gem, Rhapis excelsa, pothos, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Philodendron 'Green Queen', orchid grass species, Dieffenbachia, peperomia, bromeliads, Adina pilulifera, Pilea peperomioides, ferns, Bambusa ventricosa, Bambusa multiplex, spider plant, Reineckea carnea, Chamaedorea elegans, Fittonia, Gynura aurantiaca, Ludisia discolor, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, begonia species, lucky bamboo, Aspidistra elatior, asparagus fern, purple hosta, etc., continue to provide shed shading, pull on the shade net at 9 a.m., and remove it after 4 p.m. If there are not many potted flowers, they can also be moved indoors for the 6 to 7 hours around noon. If conditions permit, they can also be moved under the dense shade of large trees, and then moved out from under the tree shade in mid-September.
4. Pruning. In August, continue to pinch or prune vigorously growing, pruning-tolerant, and easily sprouting tree stump bonsai, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Carmona retusa, Ficus microcarpa, Fraxinus chinensis, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, etc. For Chinese rose, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, etc., after each flowering, shorten and prune. For potted chrysanthemums, do a good job of bud removal and disbudding?BR>5. Pest and disease control. In August, control pests such as scale insects, citrus swallowtail butterfly, rose sawfly, and peach red-necked longhorn beetle. Pay attention to the prevention of orchid leaf diseases, including anthracnose, gray mold, and leaf blight. Pay attention to the control of chrysanthemum aphids, leaf miners, and stem borers.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In August, the balcony still has strong light and dry, hot air, and only some potted ornamental plants with very strong resistance or long placed on the balcony can adapt. Such as black pine, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', five-needle pine, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Adina rubella, Ilex cornuta, holly, wintersweet, fruit pomegranate, flowering pomegranate, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Platycladus orientalis stumps, Sabina chinensis, Juniperus procumbens, Xylosma racemosum, Fraxinus chinensis, Carmona retusa, Chinese rose, bougainvillea, agave, Lantana camara, ginkgo, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, Acer buergerianum, Podocarpus macrophyllus, etc. In August, part of the flowering trees and shrubs on the balcony can be moved indoors with air conditioning, such as Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Cymbidium sinense, Vanda, Oncidium, South American cycad, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, Philodendron 'Green Giant', red (green) gem, Calathea, Areca palm, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, pothos, Rhapis excelsa, money tree, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, Pachystachys lutea, Dracaena fragrans, Fatsia japonica, etc.
Propagation of balcony flowers
In August, on the balcony, use large-diameter flower pots covered with plastic film to propagate some ornamental plants by moisture-retaining cuttings. The cutting substrate can be rice husk ash mixed with fine sand at a ratio of 2:1, or vermiculite alone. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by cuttings include: Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', Begonia maculata, gardenia, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia carnea, Osmanthus fragrans 'Rixianggui', Chloranthus spicatus, Cordyline fruticosa, jasmine, Aglaonema modestum, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Michelia figo, etc. During the 5 to 6 hours around noon, they should be moved indoors. Indoors, some ornamental plants can also be propagated by water cuttings, but the water must be changed frequently, such as: Chinese rose, gardenia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Schefflera octophylla, Aucuba japonica, fig, Cordyline fruticosa, plumeria, geranium, Aglaonema modestum, fuchsia, etc.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. In August, watering and spraying balcony potted flowers should be careful and cautious. First, avoid too great a difference between water temperature and soil temperature and air temperature; second, pay attention to the time of watering and spraying, which can be done before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m.; third, while watering, do not neglect loosening the soil of potted plants; fourth, it is best to add a small amount of ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to meet the needs of most ornamental plants for a slightly acidic soil environment. If the balcony is relatively spacious, use bricks to build a simple sand pool, put 10 cm thick wet sand inside, and then place some potted flowers that prefer moisture on the wet sand, such as: Monstera deliciosa, Aspidistra elatior, Philodendron 'Little Angel', camellia, Camellia sasanqua, Syngonium, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium ensifolium, bromeliads, red (green) gem, Chloranthus spicatus, etc. Usually use spraying instead of watering, which is very beneficial for them to pass the summer safely. For Cymbidium, Cymbidium hookerianum, Oncidium, Cattleya, fuchsia, Dendrobium, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, etc., they can be moved to air-conditioned rooms, using spraying instead of watering, to ensure they can pass the summer normally. For flower species placed on the balcony that are relatively heat-tolerant, such as Chinese rose, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, pomegranate, bougainvillea, Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, Acer buergerianum, black pine, Pinus densiflora 'Umbraculifera', wisteria, Carmona retusa, Adina rubella, agave, sago palm, etc., water 1 to 2 times a day and spray 1 to 2 times.
2. Fertilizing. In August, stop fertilizing balcony potted plants in dormant and semi-dormant states. For vigorously growing foliage plants, spray or apply 0.3% urea solution, or scatter multi-element compound fertilizer granules on the pot surface. For flowering trees and shrubs mainly for viewing flowers and fruits, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia odorata, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, bitter orange, firethorn, finger citron, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. For Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Ilex cornuta, holly, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Carmona retusa, Acer buergerianum, Adina rubella, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, etc., after each pruning, apply a thin fertilizer once.
3. Shading. In August, for potted plants placed on the balcony receiving full light, especially shallow-pot bonsai, such as five-needle pine, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Sabina chinensis, Carmona retusa, Japanese apricot, Acer buergerianum, etc., cover the pot surface with soft grass, moss, or wet cloth, which can both retain moisture and lower temperature, and protect the plant's nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface soil from damage. If the balcony is relatively spacious, use a shade net to block light. If there are not many and relatively precious potted flowers on the balcony, it is best to move them indoors for the 5 to 6 hours around noon.
4. Pruning. In August, for most tree stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Ulmus parvifolia, Sageretia thea, Serissa foetida, Fraxinus chinensis, Xylosma racemosum, small bayberry, Acer buergerianum, Ficus microcarpa, Carmona retusa, Sabina chinensis, Platycladus orientalis, Ligustrum sinense, Buxus sinica var. parvifolia, firethorn, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed this month. For faded flowers, withered stems, dead branches, and yellow leaves on other potted ornamental plants, they should also be cut off in time.
5. Pest and disease control. In August, red spider mites are most likely to appear on the balcony, and should be promptly sprayed with 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder 1500 times solution. For a small amount of scale insects appearing on flowering trees and shrubs, they can be removed by sticking with transparent tape. For aphids that often appear on chrysanthemums, spray with 90% trichlorfon crystal 1000 times solution.

Flower Planting Manual (September Volume)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display
In September, temperatures in most parts of our country gradually decline, with monthly average temperatures between 20°C and 24°C. This month, there are many types of potted ornamental plants suitable for display in courtyards. Among them, woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, golden larch, Japanese golden larch, whitebark pine, Japanese fir, Podocarpus macrophyllus, Podocarpus nagi, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Australian cycad, Fagraea ceilanica, cinnamon species, osmanthus, pomegranate, rubber tree, Ficus benjamina 'Variegata', Chinese hibiscus, cotton rose, Dutch iron, croton, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, Schefflera actinophylla, Rhapis excelsa, plumeria, bottle palm, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', ginkgo, crape myrtle, jasmine, palm, Chinese rose, Caryota, Areca palm, Cordyline fruticosa, Phoenix roebelenii, Ficus lyrata, red maple, South American cycad, spruce species, Schefflera octophylla, (Clusiaceae), Bambusa vulgaris 'Wamin', silver birch, Aglaia odorata, Michelia alba, Murraya paniculata, Pandanus tectorius, nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: Canna generalis, scarlet sage, early chrysanthemum, Begonia maculata, marigold, ornamental pepper, Lycoris, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dahlia, dragon's mouth flower, etc.
Propagation of courtyard flowers
1. Sowing. Woody flowering plant species that can be sown include: tree peony, Camellia chekiangoleosa, Michelia species, Magnolia species, Manglietia species, Aesculus species, Calycanthus chinensis, Canary Island date palm, etc. Among them, Aesculus seeds can be sown in furrows, and when sowing, the hilum should face down, and the covering soil should not be too deep, with 2 to 2.5 cm being appropriate. Cover with plastic film or straw to retain moisture. Calycanthus chinensis seeds can be soaked in cold water for 24 to 36 hours and then sown in the ground, and seedlings can emerge about 2 weeks after sowing. Except that Calycanthus chinensis can be dried and stored until the following spring for sowing, all the other species must be stored in moist sand. September is a great time for autumn sowing of herbaceous flowers. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, Dianthus, Silene armeria, Silene pendula, pansy, snapdragon, petunia, California poppy, daisy, corn poppy, calendula, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. In addition, greenhouse flowers such as cyclamen, primula, Tropaeolum, cineraria, wax begonia, Gerbera, Calceolaria can also be sown at this time, but they must overwinter in a plastic shed.
2. Cuttings. Using half sand and half rice husk ash as the cutting substrate, the flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by moisture-retaining cuttings in the courtyard include: firethorn, Mahonia, Michelia figo, bougainvillea, Weigela florida, Aucuba japonica 'Variegata', fuchsia, Viburnum macrocephalum, snowball, Weigela florida, Brunfelsia, jasmine, Chloranthus spicatus, Pachystachys lutea, Justicia carnea, rubber tree, Schefflera octophylla, Cordyline fruticosa, etc. Using ordinary sandy soil as the seedbed, woody flowering plants that can be propagated by cuttings include: boxwood species, Magnolia liliiflora, Hypericum monogynum, Spiraea, pomegranate, hibiscus, crape myrtle, Spiraea thunbergii, hydrangea, French holly, Ligustrum sinense 'Aureum', Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea, nandina, fig, oleander, Serissa foetida, gardenia, Fatsia japonica, Chaenomeles speciosa, tree peony, etc. Some herbaceous flowers can also be propagated by cuttings, such as scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, sulfur cosmos, cold chrysanthemum, etc.
3. Grafting. The following flowering trees and shrubs can be propagated by grafting: use peony root segments as rootstock, graft superior varieties of tree peony; use peach, apricot, etc. seedlings as rootstock, bud graft flowering almond, ornamental peach, longevity peach, red-leaf peach, Japanese apricot, etc.; use green maple seedlings as rootstock, bagged moisture-retaining branch graft red maple, feather maple, etc.; use Magnolia denudata seedlings as rootstock, bud graft superior varieties of Magnolia denudata and Magnolia soulangeana; use potted Magnolia liliiflora as rootstock, *graft Michelia alba; use citrus seedlings as rootstock, bud graft kumquat, etc.; use Chionanthus retusus as rootstock, *graft osmanthus; use potted seedling wintersweet as rootstock, *graft superior varieties of wintersweet.
4. Layering. Ornamental flowering trees and shrubs that can be propagated by layering include: Chaenomeles speciosa, Weigela florida, hydrangea, gardenia, oleander, winter jasmine, Forsythia, osmanthus, Magnolia liliiflora, jasmine, Michelia figo, camellia, Chloranthus spicatus, French holly, snowball, Viburnum macrocephalum, Spiraea thunbergii, Spiraea, etc.
5. Division. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division include: Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, Cymbidium ensifolium, peony, tree peony, Aglaonema modestum, Oxalis triangularis, Rudbeckia laciniata, sansevieria, Philodendron 'Little Angel', multi-headed Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Nephrolepis cordifolia, nandina, Chaenomeles speciosa, Magnolia liliiflora, Liriope platyphylla, Aspidistra elatior, big-leaf Liriope, etc. In addition, hyacinth, tulip, freesia, calla lily, Lycoris, Scilla peruviana, etc. can also have their daughter bulbs divided and planted at this time to cultivate large flowering bulbs.
Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers
1. Transplanting. Because the temperature in September is still relatively high, unless there are special circumstances, flower and tree transplanting is generally not carried out in the courtyard. If it is for the arrangement of a newly built courtyard or the renovation of an old courtyard, transplanting can also be carried out provided that a soil ball is kept intact. Species include: oleander, dragon juniper, banana shrub, Sichuan juniper, sweet osmanthus, camellia, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, boxwood species, hypericum, French holly, red-flowered loropetalum, spotted aucuba, etc. Transplanting requires heavy pruning, and strengthened watering, misting and shading management, so as to ensure that transplanting is completely successful. Some herbaceous flowers can still be planted out or potted up for viewing in golden October. Species include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, French marigold, dragon's-mouth flower, cockscomb, periwinkle, sulfur cosmos, dahlia, pot marigold, dwarf canna, early chrysanthemum, etc.
2. Pruning. Continue pruning the vigorously growing courtyard hedges and ball-shaped ornamental plants with strong sprouting ability; this is also the last pruning of the year for ball-shaped plants in northern regions during the growing season. The main courtyard hedge and color-block tree species suitable for pruning are: boxwood species, French holly, Photinia davidsoniae, privet, small-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, etc. Ball-shaped ornamental plants suitable for pruning are: dragon juniper, Sichuan juniper, boxwood, bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, photinia, pittosporum, firethorn, forsythia, etc. Ground-planted herbaceous flowers that can be pinched back include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, sulfur cosmos, summer cypress, marigold, French marigold, etc. Pinching should be done once every 10 days to promote a full plant shape and more flower spikes on the lateral shoots; stop pinching after late September. For ground-planted woody flowers that bloom continuously for a long time, such as hybrid roses, floribunda roses, miniature roses, climbing roses, crape myrtle, flowering pomegranate, lantana, bougainvillea, etc., promptly cut off spent flowers and faded stems, and moderately shorten the branches that have flowered, which can effectively promote reblooming.
3. Watering. In September, the climate is relatively dry. For trees and flowering shrubs transplanted in the courtyard in spring of the same year, continuing to do a good job of watering and misting management is one of the key measures to consolidate their survival. First, water the roots to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged; second, spray water on the straw ropes wrapped around the trunks to create a locally moist protective layer for the trunks; third, spray water on the crowns to reduce leaf transpiration and increase the humidity of the local space. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to keep them moist.
4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted colorful foliage plants, such as golden-leaf privet, red-leaf barberry, red maple, red-flowered loropetalum, variegated shell ginger, croton, spotted aucuba, red mulberry, red-leaf dwarf cherry, red-leaf plum, red-leaf peach, etc., in order to keep the leaf color fresh and bright at all times, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be appropriately applied as a top dressing. For ground-planted woody flowers that bloom continuously or are viewed for flowers or fruit in autumn, such as crape myrtle, roses, fragrant osmanthus, calamondin, flowering pomegranate, bougainvillea, cotton rose, chrysanthemum, canna, dahlia, lantana, nandina, firethorn, Ardisia crenata, kumquat, etc., as well as large numbers of ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers, a quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied as a top dressing. For kumquat, silver osmanthus, orange osmanthus, etc. that are currently blooming, fertilization can be stopped during the flowering period.
5. Pest and disease control. For the green slug moth harming crape myrtle, firethorn, crabapple and other woody flowers, a 800-fold solution of 90% trichlorfon crystal can be sprayed for control; for the citrus longhorned beetle harming crape myrtle, papaya, crabapple, poison sticks can be inserted into the insect holes for control; for powdery mildew appearing on rose and chrysanthemum plants, a 1000-fold solution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder can be used for control at the early stage of the disease.
6. Seed collecting. The woody ornamental plants from which seeds can be collected are mainly flowers of the magnolia family. Such as Oyama magnolia, banana shrub, purple magnolia, white magnolia, Yunshan white magnolia, Lechang michelia, many-flowered michelia, Michelia maudiae, southern magnolia, etc. In addition, there are also buckeye species, crape myrtle, lilac, crabapple species, redbud, white spiraea, yew, shining wintersweet, etc. Magnolia family as well as yew, buckeye, crabapple species, etc., after treatment the seeds must all be stored in wet sand until early spring of the next year, and sown only after the seeds crack. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected include: marigold, zinnia, impatiens, four-o'clock, cockscomb, periwinkle, strawflower, China aster, etc.; after collection, thresh promptly and store dry until spring of the next year before sowing.
Management of courtyard potted flowers
1. Watering. In September, the light is relatively strong, the temperature is relatively high, and the air is quite dry, so the watering management of potted flowers must not be neglected. As for watering frequency, for generally moisture-loving foliage plants, in the first half of the month water or spray once each in the morning and afternoon, and in the second half of the month change to watering once, with appropriate misting of the leaves. For most potted flowers and bonsai, water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves. The watering time should be before 10 a.m. and after 3 p.m. For ornamental plant species that like an acidic environment, a small amount of 0.1% light green ferrous sulfate powder can be added to the irrigation water. For flower species that resume growth after autumn from summer dormancy or semi-dormancy, gradually increase the amount and frequency of watering (or misting). While watering potted plants, loosen the soil of the plants once every half month.
2. Fertilizing. September is precisely the period when most flowers grow vigorously. Some flower species that are dormant or semi-dormant in summer also begin to resume growth as the temperature gradually turns cooler, so fertilization management should be highly valued this month. For foliage plants, such as split-leaf philodendron, rubber tree, money tree, Brazilian wood, bird's-nest fern, lady palm, Chinese fringe flower, cinnamon species, Zamioculcas zamiifolia (dragon-phoenix wood), Norfolk Island pine, fish-tail palm, pothos, red (green) gem, green king, silver queen, arrowroot species, syngonium, fiddle-leaf fig, etc., still mainly use low-concentration dilute fertilizer liquid, such as 0.3% urea solution, etc. For woody flower species with a very long flowering period or whose peak flowering period is in autumn, such as roses, tricolor lantana, lantana, pomegranate, crape myrtle, Aglaia odorata, white orchid, jasmine, four-season osmanthus, fragrant osmanthus, sweet osmanthus, etc., fruit-viewing plants such as sour orange, nandina, Ardisia crenata, firethorn, papaya, golden bullet tree, beautyberry, fruit pomegranate, etc., and colorful-leaf plants such as croton, spotted aucuba, bromeliad species, variegated ficus, golden-edged Brazilian wood, cordyline, coleus, etc., a fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied as a top dressing. For fuchsia, geranium, calla lily, cyclamen, begonia, daphne, Christmas cactus, sedum species, purslane tree (jade leaf), purple triangular oxalis, clivia, epiphyllum, etc. that are resuming growth, low-concentration liquid fertilizer can be resumed by watering; for flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and entered the flower bud swelling stage, such as camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, banana shrub, rhododendron, etc., a low-concentration nutritionally balanced fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing; for potted herbaceous flowers, such as scarlet sage, marigold, chrysanthemum, China aster, dahlia, dwarf sunflower, etc., a thin fertilizer can be applied once every 10 days to meet their needs for bud formation and flowering next month.
3. Shading. In September, the temperature is relatively high and the sunlight is still intense, so the shading management of courtyard potted flowers still cannot be relaxed. For those shade-loving foliage plant species, such as split-leaf philodendron, rubber tree, sword fern, Boston fern, bird's-nest fern, syngonium, arrowroot species, pothos, lady palm, green king, silver queen, orchid grass, pink taro, queen palm, cast-iron plant, begonia, Epipremnum pinnatum, dwarf banana, red (green) gem, Anthurium crystallinum, Alocasia amazonica, Fittonia, red-veined shrimp plant, asparagus fern, Schefflera, variegated brake fern, Peperomia watermelon, variegated dieffenbachia, giant taro, anthurium, staghorn fern, Pilea peperomioides, Adina, king palm, lucky bamboo, etc., through shading, give 5 to 6 hours of light every day; for light-loving species, such as trident maple, Chinese elm, Fujian tea, ginkgo, water willow, Japanese black pine, oriental arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, Norfolk Island pine, wisteria, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, firethorn, rose, oak, Chinese fringe tree, etc., full sunlight can be given; for semi-shade-loving species, such as Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, tiger thorn, red nan, loropetalum, epiphyllum, nandina, jade tree, rhododendron species, camellia, sasanqua, finger citron, sour orange, kumquat, etc., appropriate shading can be given around noon. For newly transplanted and potted autumn herbaceous flowers, appropriate shading should also be given to prevent the plants from wilting and affecting their recovery and growth.
4. Pruning. For potted chrysanthemums, continue to do a good job of bud removal and disbudding; for roses, flowering pomegranate, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, orchid, bougainvillea, lantana, golden shrimp plant, coral flower, etc., pruning should be carried out after each flowering; for those tree-stump bonsai species that are tolerant of pruning, easy to sprout and grow vigorously, such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, trident maple, Fujian tea, banyan, red nan, small-leaf privet, water willow, boxwood, oriental arborvitae (stump), true juniper, Chinese fringe tree, tamarisk, etc., continue to prune or pinch out buds. In addition, money tree seedlings can be braided into "pigtails" and potted up.
5. Pest and disease control. For peach red-necked longhorned beetles appearing on potted plum blossom, crabapple, longevity peach, ornamental peach and other plants, poison sticks can be inserted to block and kill them, or carbofuran granules can be buried for control. For Japanese wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, felted scale, etc. appearing on potted woody flowers, a 1500-fold solution of 40% Supracide can be used for control.
Potted plants suitable for balcony display
In September, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only some potted flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time or relatively resistant potted woody flowers can adapt to the special environment of the balcony. They are: Japanese black pine, Japanese five-needle pine, red pine, five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, water willow, trident maple, Chinese holly, wintergreen, wintersweet, fruit-viewing pomegranate, boxwood, oriental arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, Fujian tea, Chinese fringe tree, banyan, bougainvillea, rose, agave, ginkgo, Aglaia odorata, jasmine, hackberry, Buddhist pine, thorny elm, June snow, firethorn, lantana, etc. For some flower species that like a cool environment, they can continue to be placed indoors with air conditioning, such as cymbidium, oncidium, dendrobium, cattleya, vanda, spider orchid, Alocasia amazonica, Anthurium crystallinum, anthurium, clivia, fuchsia, Fittonia, etc.; while for some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 4 to 5 hours around noon, such as lady palm, split-leaf philodendron, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, cast-iron plant, areca palm, fish-tail palm, queen palm, spotted aucuba, Schefflera, etc. Propagation of balcony flowers In September, on the balcony you can continue to use large-diameter flower pots as containers, filled with a mixed substrate of half chaff ash and half wet sand, covered with plastic film to retain moisture, and can cuttings-propagate some ornamental plants, such as gardenia, cordyline, spotted aucuba, Schefflera, fragrant osmanthus, four-season osmanthus, camellia, sasanqua, orchid, jasmine, red-backed excoecaria, coral flower, golden shrimp plant, banana shrub, silver queen aglaonema, etc. You can also water-propagate Schefflera, rose, gardenia, fig, Guangdong evergreen, etc. indoors.
Management of balcony flowers
1. Watering. For some relatively moisture-loving ornamental plants, such as spring orchid, sword-leaved cymbidium, cymbidium, split-leaf philodendron, cast-iron plant, camellia, sasanqua, dwarf banana, orchid, bromeliad, etc., they can be placed on wooden slats set over a balcony water pool or water tank, or placed in a simple self-built sand pool, and ordinarily misting is used instead of watering. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, mist more and water less, so as to keep the potting soil loose and moist; especially in air-conditioned rooms, mist at least 1 to 2 times a day, otherwise even a relatively drought-tolerant five-needle pine bonsai will lose water and die if not watered or misted for 5 to 7 days. For relatively resistant potted ornamental plants placed on the balcony, continue to water once a day and mist 1 to 2 times, or use the immersion pot method to prevent the phenomenon of the potting soil being wet on top and dry below. The watering time should still avoid the 2 to 3 hours around noon, pay attention that the water temperature does not differ too much from the soil temperature and air temperature, and add a small amount of light green ferrous sulfate to the irrigation water to avoid physiological yellowing of the plants.
2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species gradually resuming growth from dormancy or semi-dormancy, appropriately apply low-concentration liquid fertilizer by watering; for vigorously growing potted stumps, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once after each pinching and pruning; for potted woody flowers mainly viewed for flowers and fruit, such as white orchid, rose, pomegranate, crape myrtle, jasmine, orchid, sour orange, firethorn, finger citron, kumquat, etc., continue to apply quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer as a top dressing; for potted flowers that have completed flower bud differentiation and whose flower buds are growing, such as camellia, sasanqua, wintersweet, plum blossom, sweet osmanthus, chrysanthemum, etc., according to the different species, appropriately apply an appropriate amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer or a multi-element compound fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The types of top dressing applied to flowers on the balcony should not carry an off-odor, especially not a foul odor; when watering, be careful not to splash down to the floor below, and operate carefully.
3. Shading. For tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce watering amount, prevent soil compaction, and protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed in the surface layer of the potting soil, continue to cover the pot surface with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc.; when the number of potted flowers is small, they can be moved indoors for 5 to 6 hours around noon; if there are many potted flowers and conditions permit, continue to set up supports and pull up shade nets to block light.
4. Pruning. In September, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, water willow, boxwood, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, oriental arborvitae (stump), Chinese juniper, creeping juniper, small-leaf privet, Chinese fringe tree, etc., pinching or pruning is still needed. For other potted woody flowers, dead branches and yellow leaves, spent flowers and faded stems should also be cut off promptly.
5. Pest and disease control. In September, the balcony has high temperature and dry air, and potted woody flowers are most prone to red spider mite damage, which can be sprayed and killed with a 1500-fold solution of 25% fenbutatin oxide wettable powder; for double-striped fir longhorned beetles appearing on dragon juniper, Chinese juniper and savin juniper bonsai, and peach red-necked longhorned beetles appearing on plum blossom, crabapple, papaya, longevity peach and other woody flowers, continue to insert poison sticks or bury carbofuran for control; for various scale insects harming camellia, firethorn, crape myrtle, wintersweet and other woody flowers, when the number is small they can be wiped off manually, and when the number is large, spray a 1500-fold solution of 40% Supracide for control.

Flower Planting Manual Winter

Flower Planting Manual (October chapter)

Flowers suitable for courtyard display

    In October, temperatures drop in most parts of the country, with the monthly average temperature between 10°C and 19°C. There are many species of potted ornamental plants suitable for courtyard display this month, among which woody ornamental plant species include: Norfolk Island pine, five-needle pine, Japanese golden larch, whitebark pine, Japanese fir, spruce species, Buddhist pine, bamboo-leaf podocarp, sago palm, Canary Island date palm, Dutch iron, Chinese fringe flower, Lanyu cinnamon, sweet osmanthus, cotton rose, rubber tree, Schefflera, variegated ficus, hibiscus, golden larch, croton, Brazilian wood, money tree, lady palm, ponytail palm, Mahonia bealei, Fatsia japonica, spotted aucuba, thick-leaf ficus, fish-tail palm, areca palm, queen palm, cordyline, beautiful date palm, fiddle-leaf fig, desert rose, South American cycad, Fukugi, Buddha belly bamboo, red maple, silver birch, Aglaia odorata, white orchid, Ludou tree, orange jasmine, nandina, etc. Herbaceous flowers include: scarlet sage, large-flowered canna, dahlia, China aster, chrysanthemum, small chrysanthemum, bamboo-joint begonia, dragon's-mouth flower, French marigold, marigold, five-color pepper, cockscomb, pot marigold, periwinkle, globe amaranth, dwarf petunia, Guinea impatiens, etc. It should be noted: in North China, Northeast China and other places, when the temperature drops below 10°C, attention should be paid to cold protection for southern flowers planted in the north.

Propagation of courtyard flowers

    1. Sowing. Woody flower species that can be sown include: tree peony, red-flowered camellia, banana shrub species, magnolia species, manglietia species, buckeye species, summer wintersweet, lucky seed, soapberry, kuding tea, Buddhist pine, bamboo-leaf podocarp, French holly, Elaeocarpus, beautiful date palm, yew, Chinese fan palm, privet, small-leaf privet, camphor, Weigela, palm, pond cypress, etc. Among them, when sowing buckeye, the seed hilum should face downward; before sowing summer wintersweet, the seeds should first be soaked for 24 to 36 hours. Except that the seeds of summer wintersweet and Weigela can be stored dry until spring sowing, for all other species, after the seeds are cleaned, they can be stored in wet sand to promote germination until the seeds crack and show white in the next spring before sowing. Note that before storage and germination promotion, the seeds should be rinsed clean; the water content of the sand should be such that it forms a ball when held in the hand and disperses when released, and the ratio of seeds to sand is about 1:3. During the storage and germination promotion process, the seeds should be checked frequently to prevent the seeds from drying out or becoming moldy. Herbaceous flower species that can be sown include: hollyhock, mallow, corn poppy, pot marigold, snapdragon, dianthus species, pansy, Boston ivy, blackberry lily, dwarf catchfly, tall catchfly, California poppy, daisy, black-eyed Susan, iris, verbena, etc. Greenhouse flowers such as nasturtium, gloxinia, dwarf petunia, cineraria, four-season primrose, African daisy, calceolaria can also be sown in plastic greenhouses.

    2. Cuttings. Woody flower species that can be cutting-propagated include: red-backed excoecaria, Schefflera, night-blooming jasmine, lantana, firethorn, Mahonia, finger citron, clerodendrum, cordyline, banana shrub, aucuba, hibiscus, bougainvillea, jasmine, orchid, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, Weigela, snowball viburnum, red-flowered spiraea, snow spray, hypericum, red-leaf plum, rose, Chinese snowball, crape myrtle, hibiscus, oleander, fig, japonica, etc. The cutting substrate can be ordinary sandy loam or yellow subsoil, or a mixture of half sand and half chaff ash, using fully closed moisture-retaining cuttings. In addition, for some southern flower cuttings, when Frost's Descent arrives, attention should be paid to cold protection. Herbaceous flower species that can be cutting-propagated include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, marigold, begonia, bamboo-joint begonia, wandering jew, golden pothos, clearweed, coral flower, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, red-veined shrimp plant, cold chrysanthemum, etc. (This part is missing!!)

    3. Grafting. Use 1- to 2-year-old Japanese black pine seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft five-needle pine (including Osaka pine) and Japanese five-needle pine with moisture retention; use peony roots as rootstock to graft superior varieties of tree peony; use one-year-old Japanese maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft red maple, feather maple, etc. with moisture retention; use one-year-old white magnolia seedlings as rootstock, bud-graft superior varieties of white magnolia, Yulan magnolia, red-flowered magnolia, etc.; use three-edged arrow as rootstock to graft various cactus balls; use one-year-old citrus seedlings as rootstock to bud-graft kumquat.

    4. Layering. Woody flower species that can be propagated by ground layering include: camellia, plum blossom, Weigela, hydrangea, weigela, japonica, August osmanthus, snowball, Chinese snowball, purple magnolia, gardenia, hypericum, French holly, winter jasmine, forsythia, banana shrub, snow spray, red-flowered spiraea, etc.

    5. Division. Woody flower species that can be divided include: nandina, Mahonia bealei, Mahonia, tree peony, japonica, snowball viburnum, double-flowered kerria, spray flower, spiraea, sago cycad, etc. Herbaceous flower species that can be divided include: peony, hosta, spring orchid, purple hosta, bird of paradise, cymbidium, sword-leaved cymbidium, Ranunculus, goldenrod, iris, blackberry lily, lily of the valley, Guangdong evergreen, silver queen aglaonema, purple triangular oxalis, multi-head green king, sword fern, cast-iron plant, etc. Flower species that can be propagated by dividing bulbs include: calla lily, amaryllis, freesia, lycoris, tulip, Mediterranean bluebell, etc.

Management of courtyard ground-planted flowers

    1. Transplanting. For some deciduous ornamental plants, according to local climate changes, transplant after Frost's Descent arrives and the leaves fall, such as hibiscus, redbud, elm-leaved spirea, pomegranate, lilac, red-leaf plum, purple magnolia, ornamental peach, longevity peach, floribunda rose, red-leaf barberry, golden-leaf privet, etc. For some evergreen flowering shrubs, such as Mahonia bealei, nandina, Sichuan juniper, dragon juniper, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, four-season osmanthus, gardenia, large-leaf boxwood, boxwood, sparrow-tongue boxwood, etc., when transplanting, first, shorten and prune before transplanting; second, keep a good soil ball; third, strengthen watering and misting management after transplanting. Courtyard herbaceous flower species that can be planted out include: dianthus, daisy, hollyhock, ornamental kale, pansy, pot marigold, verbena, phlox, snapdragon, autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea, etc. Bulbous flower species that can be ground-planted include: narcissus, pheasant's eye narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, etc.

    2. Pruning. Carry out the last pruning of the year for the hedges and ball-shaped plants in the courtyard, requiring precision and accuracy, with the standard being flat surfaces, straight lines and round balls. Courtyard color-block and hedge plant species suitable for pruning include: golden-edged privet, red-leaf barberry, red-flowered loropetalum, golden-edged thousand-head arborvitae, golden-edged boxwood, large-leaf boxwood, boxwood, French holly, privet, Photinia davidsoniae, small-leaf privet, etc. Ball-shaped plants that need pruning include: dragon juniper, boxwood, bayberry, Chinese holly, wintergreen, photinia, pittosporum, firethorn, etc. For continuously flowering ground-planted woody flowers in the courtyard, such as roses, crape myrtle, lantana, bougainvillea, etc., continue to cut off spent flowers and faded stems, and moderately shorten the branches that have flowered. For ground-planted herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, such as scarlet sage, marigold, globe amaranth, etc., promptly cut off the open flower spikes to promote continued flowering and blooming on the lateral shoots, thereby prolonging the viewing period.

    3. Watering. For courtyard woody flowers newly planted this year, continue to do a good job of watering and misting: first, keep the root soil moist, but there must be no waterlogging; second, continue to mist the leaves. In addition, for newly planted herbaceous flowers, also do a good job of misting to keep them moist.

    4. Fertilizing. For ground-planted autumn herbaceous flowers in the courtyard, apply a quick-acting fertilizer balanced in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium as a top dressing; for osmanthus species that have already flowered, dig ring-shaped trenches and bury base fertilizer; for roses, crabapple, crape myrtle, cotton rose, as well as camellia, banana shrub, plum blossom, wintersweet, etc. that have been pruned, bury an appropriate amount of compound fertilizer; for nandina and firethorn that are in the fruit-viewing state, as well as southern finger citron, kumquat, sour orange, golden bullet tree, etc., appropriately apply a small amount of quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer by watering, which can effectively prolong the fruit-viewing period.

    5. Pest and disease control. For trunk-boring pests appearing on ground-planted plum blossom, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, crabapple, etc., continue to use poison sticks for control. For dead branches and fallen leaves in the courtyard, promptly sweep them up and burn them in a centralized manner. In the north, for thick large trunks in the courtyard, whitewash the trunks at the end of the month, or directly apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunks.

[page]    6. Seed collecting. Woody plant species from which seeds can be collected include: Buddhist pine, bamboo-leaf podocarp, soapberry, buckeye, purple magnolia, white magnolia, manglietia, southern magnolia, mountain magnolia, Huangshan magnolia, yellow orchid, golden-leaf michelia, Michelia maudiae, red-flowered manglietia, broad-petaled michelia, pond cypress, lady palm, Ardisia crenata, beautiful date palm, Chinese fan palm, kuding tea, French holly, camphor, privet, small-leaf privet, Chinese snowball, hall crabapple, papaya, sago cycad, ginkgo, yew, oil tea, etc.; these seeds must all be stored in wet sand. Seed species that can be stored dry include: crape myrtle, tulip tree, red maple, Japanese maple, golden larch, dawn redwood, Japanese cedar, Chinese tallow, silk tree, goldenrain tree, cotton rose, southern sour jujube, redbud, camptotheca, Chongyang wood, five-angle maple, etc. Herbaceous flowers from which seeds can be collected include: scarlet sage, cockscomb, zinnia, globe amaranth, dahlia, marigold, French marigold, China aster, impatiens, four-o'clock, summer cypress, strawflower, cosmos, snow-on-the-mountain, painted euphorbia, mimosa, dancing grass, etc.

In addition, at the end of October, for canna, dahlia, etc., when their aboveground parts are nearly withered, dig up the underground rhizomes, store them in sand indoors, keep the room temperature not lower than 5°C, and cut and divide them for planting in the next spring.

Management of courtyard potted flowers

    1. Watering. Although the weather has turned cooler, in most areas south of the Huai River, the temperature is still above 17°C, and the air is quite dry, so potted flower watering management must be careful and meticulous. For some moisture-loving foliage plants, such as rubber tree, cast-iron plant, split-leaf philodendron, pothos, syngonium, Chinese fringe flower, Lanyu cinnamon, giant taro, red gem, etc., on sunny days water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn, including semi-dormant species, such as calla lily, cyclamen, clivia, purslane tree, daphne, geranium, fuchsia, etc., increase the watering amount. For wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, etc. that bloom in winter and early spring, control watering and mist more, so as to facilitate the swelling of their flower buds. In northern regions, for relatively cold-sensitive flower species, reduce watering, which can accelerate the lignification of their new shoots, so as to help them overwinter safely. The watering time is best at 10 a.m. or 3 p.m.

    2. Fertilizing. For summer-dormant flowers resuming growth after autumn turns cool, promptly apply low-concentration quick-acting liquid fertilizer as a top dressing; for camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, clivia, cyclamen, ink orchid, Belgian azalea, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. that bloom in winter or early spring, continue to apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea; for most foliage plants, after mid-October, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and appropriately apply some low-concentration potassium fertilizer to increase the cold resistance of the plants; for fruit-viewing potted plants, such as sour orange, lemon, kumquat, nandina, winter coral, lucky seed, golden bullet tree, etc., a small amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be applied as a top dressing in early to mid-October.

    3. Shading. For some very shade-loving foliage plant species, such as dieffenbachia, split-leaf philodendron, arrowroot species, syngonium, green gem, Boston fern, peperomia species, etc., shading is still needed for 2 to 3 hours around noon.

    4. Pruning. For most bonsai and potted flowers that must be moved indoors in winter, in mid-to-late October, first cut off their dead branches and fallen leaves, diseased and pest-infested branches, weak and thin branches, etc.; for leggy branches, carry out heavy shortening; for binding materials that have been in place for 1 to 2 years, they can be removed, or removed and then re-bound, to prevent long-term binding at a fixed position from constricting and injuring the cambium of the branches and causing the branches and leaves to die.

    5. Cold protection. In northern regions, in mid-to-late October, some ornamental plant species that cannot tolerate temperatures below 10°C can be moved into greenhouses in time; for some relatively cold-tolerant woody potted flowers or tree-stump bonsai, they can be buried in wind-sheltered, sunny soil at the end of the month to prevent the potting soil from freezing. In the Yangtze River basin, accurately grasp weather change information and avoid the threat of southward cold waves.

    6. Pest and disease control. Cut off dead branches and fallen leaves on potted woody flowers, collect them together and burn them. For potted chrysanthemums, control aphids, chrysanthemum beetles, leaf-miner larvae, inchworms and other pests.

Potted plants suitable for balcony display

    In early to mid-October, the balcony still has strong light and dry air. Only those potted woody flowers that have been placed on the balcony for a long time and have relatively strong resistance can adapt to the open-air environment of the balcony. They are: Japanese black pine, Japanese five-needle pine, Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, trident maple, water willow, Chinese fringe tree, Fujian tea, Buddhist pine, oriental arborvitae, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, boxwood, pomegranate, bougainvillea, thick-leaf ficus, ginkgo, rose, jasmine, Aglaia odorata, sago cycad, firethorn, lantana, tamarisk, red maple, etc. Some cold-sensitive southern woody flower species cannot continue to be placed on the balcony when the temperature drops to 10°C. For some flower species that like a relatively cool environment, they can be placed in ordinary rooms at the beginning of the month. Such as cymbidium, Anthurium crystallinum, Fittonia, cattleya, phalaenopsis, oncidium, etc. For some common foliage plants, they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon, and placed on the balcony at other times, such as lady palm, Brazilian wood, money tree, pothos, cast-iron plant, areca palm, fish-tail palm, queen palm, bandou, Schefflera, etc. In northern regions, when the temperature drops to 10°C, the vast majority of woody flowers can no longer be placed on the balcony. Propagation of balcony flowers In early October, you can continue to use wide-mouthed large flower pots on the balcony as cutting containers, filled with a mixed cutting substrate of half chaff ash and half wet sand, or use vermiculite alone as the cutting substrate, cover with plastic film to retain moisture, and cutting-propagate a small number of ornamental plants, such as gardenia, Schefflera, rubber tree, aucuba, banana shrub, jasmine, orchid, Guangdong evergreen, coral flower, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, hibiscus, finger citron, silver queen aglaonema, golden pothos, geranium, etc.

Management of balcony flowers

    1. Watering. For woody ornamental plants placed on the balcony, such as sago cycad, banyan, rubber tree, Schefflera, Brazilian wood, money tree, Aglaia odorata, white orchid, jasmine, etc., water once a day, supplemented by misting the leaves; for species that have already formed flower buds and will bloom in winter and early spring, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, etc., watering should not be too much, and at the same time mist the branches and leaves, which can effectively promote the swelling of their flower buds. For potted foliage plants placed indoors, such as split-leaf philodendron, bird's-nest fern, dwarf banana, cast-iron plant, cordyline, bird's-nest fern, anthurium, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, arrowroot species, pothos, etc., all should be mainly misted with watering as a supplement, so as to keep the potting soil from drying out.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flower species resuming growth from dormancy and semi-dormancy, such as clivia, cyclamen, calla lily, as well as cymbidium, bromeliad, Baosui orchid, etc., apply a mixed solution of 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.1% urea by watering; for sour orange, kumquat, golden bean, lemon, nandina, golden bullet tree, lucky seed, firethorn, winter coral, etc. mainly viewed for fruit, continue to apply a small amount of low-concentration quick-acting phosphorus and potassium fertilizer by watering; for Aglaia odorata, white orchid, orchid, jasmine, etc., apply 1 to 2 times of dilute phosphorus and potassium fertilizer in early October as a top dressing, so as to help them pass the winter smoothly.

    3. Shading. In early to mid-October, for tree-stump bonsai and potted flowers placed on the balcony receiving full sunlight, in order to reduce the watering amount, protect the nutrient fibrous roots distributed on the surface of the potting soil, and prevent the potting soil from compacting, continue to cover the surface of the potting soil with wet grass, moss, wet cloth, etc., especially for shallow-pot tree-stump bonsai, more attention should be paid. For some shade-loving foliage plants, on fine days they can be moved indoors for 3 to 4 hours around noon. The shade net set up in summer can be removed after mid-October.

    4. Pruning. In mid-to-late October, for tree-stump bonsai placed on the balcony, such as Chinese elm, Japanese apricot, trident maple, banyan, Fujian tea, oriental arborvitae (stump), Buddhist pine, Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, privet, Chinese fringe tree, etc., necessary pruning and shaping must be carried out. For metal wires or non-metal wires that have been bound for more than a year, first untie them; if the shaping requirements have not yet been met, re-bind and fix at a different binding position, which can avoid deep constriction marks causing serious damage to the plant. For ordinary potted woody flowers, such as rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, japonica, hall crabapple, etc., appropriate pruning can also be carried out.

    5. Pest and disease control. In late October, the dead branches and fallen leaves of all potted flowers on the balcony can be collected and burned together. For tree-stump bonsai whose trunk xylem is partially exposed, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the trunk, which can both protect the trunk xylem and reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases in the coming year.
Flower Planting Manual (November chapter)

    Weather characteristics of November: This month is the turn of autumn and winter. November 7 is the Start of Winter, the beginning of winter in our country, and the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River are about to freeze; November 22 is Minor Snow, and the Yellow River basin and areas to the north begin to snow, and the Yangtze River basin also begins to enter winter. This month, flower and tree maintenance should attach importance to two aspects of work: first, pruning and cleaning ground-planted flowers and trees, whitewashing trunks and removing insects, turning the soil and applying base fertilizer; second, for bonsai and flowers in greenhouses and plastic greenhouses, effectively do a good job of cold protection and freeze protection. This month's flower care management mainly includes the following contents.

I. Flower propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in November include: nasturtium, gloxinia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, African daisy, clivia, asparagus fern, hosta, etc.

    Woody species that can be sown immediately after collection in November include: snowball viburnum, small-leaf privet, privet, camphor, pencil juniper, bamboo-leaf podocarp, Buddhist pine, soapberry, lucky seed (Ardisia crenata), palm, French holly, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, etc.

    2. Cuttings. In November, open-field cuttings can be carried out, but plastic film covering must be added. Woody flower species for heat preservation and cold protection mainly include: red-leaf plum, plum blossom (referring to green calyx, palace pink and other varieties), rose (referring to floribunda rose, Elizabeth and other easy-to-root varieties), japonica, etc.

    Woody flower species that can be root-cutting propagated in November include: red-leaf plum, hall crabapple, japonica, Chinese holly, wintergreen, Chinese trumpet creeper, Chinese elm, June snow, etc. Among them, some root-cutting seedlings can be used to make small and miniature bonsai.

    Woody flowers that can be densely cutting-propagated in greenhouses or plastic greenhouses in November include: boxwood, Chinese boxwood, large-leaf boxwood, silver-edged boxwood, clearweed, golden-edged privet, gardenia, hypericum, golden-flowered hypericum, Mahonia, golden-edged June snow, etc. If managed properly, complete root systems can grow in the next spring, and they can be used for ground planting to cultivate ball-shaped greening shapes. In winter, in greenhouses, cuttings can also be propagated for bamboo-joint begonia, begonia species, lotus-leaf begonia, geranium, hibiscus, fuchsia, jade tree, purslane tree, red-backed excoecaria, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, etc., and after spring begins they can be used for potting cultivation.

    In November, in the Yangtze River basin, branches of cotton rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, grape, etc. can also be cut and stored, to be cutting-propagated in the next spring, which can significantly accelerate their rooting speed and increase the cutting survival rate.

    3. Grafting. Use green maple seedlings as rootstock, bag and graft red maple and feather maple indoors; use apricot seedlings and peach seedlings as rootstock, cut-graft plum blossom (bury the graft union in soil to overwinter); use thick branches of rose (Elizabeth variety) as rootstock-scion, and use branches of superior rose varieties as scions, carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting and then cutting-propagate, promoting simultaneous healing of the graft union and rooting of the lower cut, which can accelerate the process of cultivating grafted seedlings of superior rose varieties.

    4. Layering. Woody flower species that can be propagated by ground layering in November mainly include: japonica, gardenia, small-leaf gardenia, pomegranate, camellia, plum blossom, wintersweet, Buddhist pine, weigela, sweet osmanthus, hydrangea, purple magnolia, cypress, banana shrub, snowball viburnum, snowball, Chinese snowball, snow spray, etc.

    5. Division. Woody ornamental plant species that can be divided and propagated in November include: japonica, snowball viburnum, snow spray, red-flowered spiraea, three-branched, hypericum, golden-flowered hypericum, Mahonia, butterfly bush, tree peony, broom, winter jasmine, forsythia, jasmine, jasmine, orchid, bamboo, Phyllostachys bambusoides, etc.

South of the Yangtze River basin, the underground rhizomes or tubers of dahlia, canna, and large-flowered canna can be dug up, stored in sand until March of the next spring, and then cut, divided and planted.

Herbaceous flower species that can be divided and propagated include: white bletilla, sword-leaved cymbidium, spring orchid, cymbidium, hosta, purple hosta, blackberry lily, iris, ornamental bromeliad, large-leaf lilyturf, Reineckea, autumn zephyr lily, evergreen, cast-iron plant, kalanchoe, etc.

    1. Collecting seeds. Herbaceous flower seeds that can be collected in November include: scarlet sage, globe amaranth, zinnia, China aster, French marigold, marigold, maple-leaf mallow, etc.

    Woody species whose seeds can be collected in November and stored dry include: Japanese black pine, Huangshan pine, five-needle pine, dawn redwood, false cypress, Japanese false cypress, Japanese flat cypress, silk tree, sweetgum, camptotheca, eucommia, red-twig dogwood, Chinese tallow, wisteria, crape myrtle, caragana, snowball viburnum. Woody species that can be sown immediately after collection or must be stored in wet sand include: privet, small-leaf privet, palm, camphor, pencil juniper, soapberry, wolfberry, yew, southern magnolia, wintergreen, Chinese holly, firethorn, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, rose (used for cultivating rootstock), etc.

   2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can continue to be planted out in flower beds and transplanted for flower border arrangement in November include: dwarf catchfly, dianthus, hollyhock, mallow, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, daisy, pot marigold, ornamental kale, etc.

    Tree species that can be transplanted in November include: camphor, southern magnolia, silk tree, soapberry, privet, goldenrain tree, Chinese tallow, white magnolia, sweet osmanthus, red maple, red-leaf plum, plum blossom, wintersweet, buckeye, linden, giant redbud, tulip tree, Yulan magnolia, papaya, crabapple, etc. Among them, when transplanting evergreen trees, the branches and trunk must be appropriately shortened or cut back, and most leaves removed, the trunk bound well with straw rope, and a large soil ball kept (generally the soil ball diameter is about 6 to 7 times the trunk diameter), so as to ensure survival; when transplanting deciduous trees, the trunk can be cut back and large branches pruned, with a good soil ball kept and the trunk bound well. After transplanting large trees, watering and trunk misting management must be strengthened for survival. In addition, the cuts on the trunk and large branches should be sealed with wax or wrapped with plastic film to prevent massive evaporation of water from the tree body.

    In November, plum stumps, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, japonica, hall crabapple, etc. can be transplanted and potted, and placed in greenhouses for flower forcing, so as to meet the needs of indoor display around the Spring Festival.

    In November, potted hyacinth, tulip, pheasant's eye narcissus, etc. should be moved into greenhouses to promote flowering around the Spring Festival.

    1. Watering. For most ornamental flowers (including bonsai) placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels or indoors, the amount of watering in November is based on keeping the potting soil moist as the specific standard; it must not be too wet, because if the temperature is on the low side and too much water is given, the plants are prone to root rot and death. If the indoor temperature is relatively high, the amount of watering should be appropriately increased, and the necessary misting of the leaves should be given.

For those potted flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, etc., as well as fruit-ornamental plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, firethorn, nandina, winter cherry, and coralberry, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be misted frequently, to favor the swelling and growth of the flower buds and to make the fruits appear even more brightly colored.

For foliage plants placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses and indoors, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves should also be misted frequently so that they always remain lush green and glossy. In greenhouses and rooms with relatively high temperatures, the amount of watering can be increased. For foliage plants that are not very cold-tolerant, such as arrowhead plant, prayer plant, Dieffenbachia, green emperor, croton, and silver queen, the amount of watering should be controlled to help them overwinter safely.

[page]    In November, the best time for watering potted flowers is around 10 to 11 a.m., and the water temperature should basically match the soil temperature, so as to avoid adverse reactions in the plants caused by water that is too cold, which would in turn affect their safe overwintering.

    2. Fertilizing. For potted flowers placed indoors where the temperature is above 15°C, such as Western azalea, camellia, sasanqua, plum blossom, wintersweet, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, winter daphne, cineraria, cyclamen, flowering quince, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, ornamental bromeliad, Christmas cactus, and silver vase bromeliad, low-concentration phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can continue to be applied; using a 0.2% monopotassium phosphate fertilizer solution can promote their growth and flowering.

For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, topdressing should be stopped to help them enter normal dormancy for overwintering. For most flowering trees planted in the ground, such as crabapple types, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, Yulan magnolia 'Er Qiao', wood lotus, Michelia chapensis, Michelia yunshanensis, Michelia, Michelia 'Golden Leaf', gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, spiraea, osmanthus, grape, Chinese rose, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, palm, red maple, tree peony, forsythia, herbaceous peony, and Hypericum, dry cake fertilizer can be buried and applied, with 0.5 kg to 1.5 kg per plant; smaller plants can receive less, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

    3. Pruning. Continue pruning hedges, green walls and topiary shapes that have not yet been fully pruned; after pruning is completed, base fertilizer can be applied.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly shaped by pruning, carry out all-round shaping and pruning, such as Chinese elm, Fujian tea, Sageretia, trident maple, Japanese oak, Fraxinus hupehensis, firethorn, Serissa, Chinese juniper, Buddhist pine, wintersweet, crabapple, etc., to build a good framework for next year's growth and shaping.

Prune ground-planted or potted Chinese roses that have not yet been pruned. For each plant, apart from retaining 3 to 5 stout 1- to 2-year-old stems at 30 cm to 50 cm from the base, cut off the remaining old stems from their base and prune away all thin and weak branches; for unpruned ground-planted crape myrtle, carry out heavy shortening pruning of the current year's branches, apart from retaining 20 cm to 30 cm of the base of a few thick branches, cut off all the remaining current-year branches, so as to encourage more stout new shoots the following year and lay a foundation for more flowering.

For common flowering trees in flower beds, along roadsides and in courtyards, such as crape myrtle, rose of Sharon, osmanthus, camphor tree, plane tree, purple magnolia, forsythia, plum blossom, wintersweet, cherry blossom, camellia, silk tree, firethorn, Pittosporum, crabapple, etc., cut away all disordered branches, thin and weak branches, inner-canopy branches and diseased or pest-infested branches, and properly shorten water sprouts that protrude beyond the crown. In addition, in November, the coarse trunks of palm trees can be stripped of their fibrous sheaths, and the trunks cleaned well to bring out their proper ornamental effect.

    4. Cold protection. For potted flowering trees that are not very sensitive to cold, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, nandina, Norfolk Island pine, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, bottle orchid, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, kumquat, Ardisia crenata, Schefflera, Monstera, Philodendron, fishtail palm, rubber tree, money tree, Canary Island date palm, and rhapis palm, they can be placed in plastic tunnels, as long as the room temperature is maintained at no lower than about 5°C.

For cold-sensitive potted flower species, such as prayer plant, Dieffenbachia, arrowhead plant, deep-lobed philodendron, Aglaia, croton, golden shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, Dracaena fragrans, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, silver queen, frangipani, lucky bamboo, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, and Dendrobium, they should be placed indoors at a room temperature of no lower than 10°C, or protected through the winter in double-layer plastic tunnels.

For those relatively cold-tolerant bonsai or potted flowering trees, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple types, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, crape myrtle, boxwood, Sageretia, Buddhist pine, five-needle pine, cypress, Chinese juniper, trident maple, red maple, etc., they can be buried directly together with their pots in wind-sheltered, sunny soil; under conditions no lower than -10°C, freezing damage generally will not occur. If unusually cold weather occurs, film or soft grass can be added for cold protection.

For potted flowers or bonsai placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses or rooms in November, besides ensuring certain temperature conditions, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon for ventilation, to prevent the plants from being stuffy indoors for a long time, which causes flower drop, fruit drop and leaf drop; in addition, toxic gases such as coal gas should not intrude indoors, otherwise it is also easy to cause leaf drop and fruit drop in the plants. When ventilating, care should also be taken never to let cold wind blow directly on the plants.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees prone to leaf diseases, such as grape, crabapple types, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, and chrysanthemum, collect the fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can significantly reduce disease occurrence the following year.

For roadside tree trunks, continue whitewashing; for dead-trunk and split-trunk stump bonsai, apply lime-sulfur mixture to the dead and split parts for antisepsis, to prevent deep rot in the xylem of the stump.

For whiteflies, scale insects, etc. appearing on potted flowering trees placed in greenhouses or plastic tunnels (they may occur on bitter orange, finger citron, sago palm, orchid, camellia, clivia, and Aspidistra), first wipe them off with a damp cloth, and second spray-kill them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For aphids appearing on potted plants placed indoors (they may occur on Michelia alba, Aglaia, bitter orange, and Chinese rose), spray tobacco water for control.

For Western azaleas placed in plastic tunnels, stop spraying leaf fertilizer products, otherwise, due to poor indoor ventilation and high air humidity, sooty mold is extremely likely to occur.

    In November, the main bonsai plant species suitable for shaping include: Buddhist pine, cypress, Chinese juniper, soft cypress, prostrate juniper, Euonymus pendulus, Serissa, plum blossom, winter hazel, Japanese oak, horned holly, holly, boxwood, pearl boxwood, Chinese elm, and Hall crabapple.

For bonsai stumps that have been tied and trained with palm rope for 1 to 2 years, when relatively deep constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the old palm rope can be removed in November, and the trunk and branches can be tied and adjusted anew.

For new stumps such as Chinese elm, Sageretia, bougainvillea, Adina, firethorn, and Elaeagnus, after preliminary root trimming, trunk heading and branch cutting, plant them well in sandy loam fields by the shallow-burial and high-mounding method, and carry out shaping after they sprout branches the following year.

For stumps that have basically taken shape after 1 to 2 years of care and shaping, in November, according to the shaping characteristics of the trunk, roots and branches, select a suitable pot and repot them well, and pair them with ornamental stones and dotted moss, so that they can be displayed indoors around the Spring Festival.

For well-shaped tall plum stumps, Buddhist pine, ornamental peach, crape myrtle, Chinese juniper, flowering quince, etc., in November a suitable pot can be selected for potting and planting; with strengthened water management, they can be used the following spring for display in squares, parks and grand halls.

Flower Growing Manual (December Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of December: This month, most parts of China enter winter, and the weather turns colder. Snowfall increases from north to south in China, and temperatures in the Jianghuai and Jiangnan regions successively drop below zero, with frequent heavy frost. This month, flower and tree care should pay attention to three aspects of work: first, do a good job in heat preservation and freeze protection for cold-sensitive flowers and trees brought into greenhouses, plastic tunnels and rooms; second, do a good job in pruning and cleaning open-ground flowers and trees and in turning the soil and applying fertilizer; third, do a good job in preparing for composting organic fertilizer and mixing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in December include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter cherry, and African daisy; flower and tree species that can be sown outdoors immediately after collection or stratified in sand for germination include: Chinese rose (such as Elizabeth), nandina, coralberry, holly types, firethorn, palm, privet, camphor tree, small-leaf privet, soapberry, photinia, and Photinia davidsoniae.

    2. Cuttage. Woody ornamental flower and tree species that can be cuttings-propagated in the open field in December include: plum blossom (mainly cultivars such as Gongfen and Green Calyx); Chinese rose (mainly easy-to-root cultivars such as Elizabeth, floribunda rose, and miniature rose); red-leaf plum, wintersweet (cuttings with heel), spiraea, and boxwood types. Among them, plum blossom and red-leaf plum cuttings should preferably use yellow subsoil, Chinese rose cuttings should preferably use a mixed substrate of rice husk ash and fine sand at 2:1, and other species can use ordinary sandy loam, covered with plastic film to preserve heat and moisture.

In greenhouses, African violets can be propagated by leaf cuttings; combined with pruning, cuttings can be made of hibiscus, geranium, Epiphyllum, night-blooming cereus, gem plant, Echeveria, portulacaria, Bryophyllum, kalanchoe, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, wax begonia, bamboo begonia, Rieger begonia, Chloranthus, jasmine, Clerodendrum, lantana, Schefflera, winter daphne, pothos, and Cordyline. Using cold frames, cuttings can also be made of gardenia, golden-heart (golden-edge) boxwood, mahonia, Hypericum, forsythia, winter jasmine, Buddhist pine, false cypress, Serissa, firethorn, silver willow, and Triadica. In addition, branches of Chinese trumpet creeper, lilac, grape, etc. can be cut and stored in sand, to be cuttings-propagated the following spring.

    3. Grafting. For superior plum cultivars such as Guhong and Cinnabar, in December, using seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, peach, etc. sown that year, dig up the rootstock and carry out cleft grafting or cut grafting, then plant them in seedbeds at a certain row spacing, burying soil up to above the graft union, even covering most of the scion, taking care that water does not seep into the union, covering with plastic film to preserve heat and moisture, and removing the plastic film the following spring after the scion sprouts. Use dug-up wild rose plants to bud-graft superior Chinese rose cultivars; or use vigorous branch segments of the Elizabeth Chinese rose cultivar (10 to 12 cm long), cut-graft or cleft-graft superior Chinese rose scions onto the upper end, then insert the grafted Elizabeth stem segments into loose seedbeds. The graft union can be buried together in sandy soil, taking care that water does not seep into the graft union, covering with plastic film to preserve moisture and heat, removing the plastic film the following spring after the scion sprouts, and only after it has completely survived may a blade be used to cut the binding tape at the union. In addition, red maple can be side-grafted indoors with bagging to preserve moisture.

    4. Layering. Flower and tree species that can be propagated by layering in December include: Buddhist pine, plum blossom, camellia, osmanthus, Michelia, flowering quince, purple magnolia, snowball, weigela, gardenia, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, bridal wreath spiraea, Chinese snowball, spiraea, and pomegranate.

    5. Division. Herbaceous flower species that can be propagated by division in December include: autumn zephyr lily, dwarf lilyturf, Reineckea, hosta, purple hosta, red wood sorrel, Aspidistra, Jianlan orchid, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, large-leaf lilyturf, Liriope, Rohdea, Bryophyllum, and Guangdong evergreen. When cutting off offsets from the base of large variegated bromeliad plants, they must be small plants that have already grown on the mother plant for three or four months; otherwise, the colored bands of the offsets cut off are likely to disappear, and special attention should be paid to this.

    Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in December include: nandina, Hypericum, mahonia, flowering quince, rhapis palm, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, jasmine, Chloranthus, purple magnolia, gardenia, sisal, bambusa multiplex, and Pleioblastus.

    1. Harvesting seeds. The herbaceous flower seeds that can be harvested in December are generally those herbaceous flower species moved into greenhouses or cold rooms, such as salvia types, globe amaranth types, marigold, French marigold, cyclamen, and clivia. Clivia seeds should preferably be sown immediately after collection.

    The main woody ornamental plants whose seeds can be harvested in December include: Chinese rose, wisteria, privet, small-leaf privet, firethorn, coralberry, holly types, camphor tree, and photinia types. After treatment, these seeds basically all need sand stratification for germination; only after the seeds crack and show white the following year can they be sown in the ground. Under dry storage conditions, they easily lose viability, leading to failure in sowing and seedling raising the following year.

    2. Transplanting and planting out. Herbaceous flower species that can be planted out in flower beds in December include: dianthus types, ornamental kale, large-flowered pansy, snapdragon, pot marigold, and daisy. Some herbaceous flowers can also be potted and placed in plastic tunnels, such as daisy, pot marigold, snapdragon, ornamental kale, dianthus, and pansy; the following spring they can be used for street display.

    In December, most deciduous greening trees and flowering shrubs can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple types, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Yulan magnolia 'Er Qiao', crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, red maple, ornamental peach, Chinese scholar tree, and weeping pagoda tree. For evergreen trees and flowering shrubs, however, transplanting should be more cautious. Evergreen tree species that can be transplanted in winter include: privet, osmanthus, palm, southern magnolia, camphor tree, azalea, and holly. When transplanting, first carry out heavy shortening pruning of the main leader and large branches, and remove most of the leaves; at the same time, a large root ball must be kept, the trunk bound with straw rope and wrapped with plastic film, and the cut ends of the trunk and large branches sealed with wax or wrapped with film to reduce water transpiration; after transplanting, the leaves and trunk must also be misted frequently to ensure normal survival.

    Tree stumps and flowering trees that can be potted in December include: plum blossom, wintersweet stumps, camellia, sasanqua, flowering quince, and Hall crabapple. Place them in plastic tunnels for flower forcing, and they can be expected to bloom during the Spring Festival.

    In December, potted hyacinth, tulip, red-cupped narcissus, etc. should continue to be kept in tunnels for flower forcing, which can promote them to bloom around the Spring Festival.

    1. Cold protection. In simple plastic tunnels with a temperature no lower than 0°C, the following ornamental plants can be placed without freezing damage, such as asparagus fern, asparagus fern, Aspidistra, Japanese aralia, aucuba, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, rhapis palm, nandina, Michelia, coralberry, firethorn, camellia, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, bambusa multiplex, Pleioblastus, and sago palm.

For ornamental plant species requiring an overwintering temperature of no lower than 5°C, such as Norfolk Island pine, Schefflera, rubber tree, jasmine, Michelia alba, Chloranthus, miniature coconut, calla lily, Philodendron, Monstera, Jianlan orchid, ink orchid, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, cyclamen, primrose, lantana, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, geranium, hibiscus, and Buddha belly bamboo, they can overwinter in double-layer plastic tunnels. For species requiring an overwintering temperature of no lower than 10°C, such as croton, Caladium, pepperomia, prayer plant, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, nerve plant, bromeliads, Dieffenbachia, poinsettia, large-flowered Cymbidium, Clerodendrum, golden shrimp plant, Aglaia, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, South American cycad, red (green) gem, Oncidium, and tiger orchid, in double-layer tunnels with good sealing performance, appropriate heating should also be provided; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the tunnel, and removed after the temperature turns warmer.

For those relatively cold-tolerant potted and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple types, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Sageretia, Japanese oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood types, Buddhist pine, trident maple, cypress, Chinese juniper, red cypress, Adina, horned holly, and Fraxinus hupehensis, when the temperature is no lower than -10°C, they generally will not freeze; in unusually cold weather, add film or soft grass for cold protection.

[page]    Whether bonsai, potted flowers, and foliage or fruit-ornamental plants are placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, besides maintaining the corresponding indoor temperature, attention should also be paid to ventilation and air exchange; doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent leaf drop, flower drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, care must also be taken not to let cold wind blow directly on the plants, so as to avoid adverse reactions.

    2. Watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels and rooms, the degree is to keep the potting soil moist; if the temperature is on the low side and too much water is given, root rot is extremely likely to occur. When the temperature rises, the amount of watering can be increased and appropriate misting of the leaves given.

For those potted flower plant species that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, cineraria, primrose, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and European narcissus, and fruit-ornamental types such as bitter orange, lemon, finger citron, four-season tangerine, kumquat, winter cherry, coralberry, and nandina, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the leaves must also be misted, to favor the swelling of the flower buds and to increase the brightness of the flowers and fruits.

For most foliage plants placed indoors, the potting soil should be kept moist and the leaves should also be misted, always keeping the plant leaves clean; for foliage plant species that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Dieffenbachia, arrowhead plant, prayer plant, croton, and silver queen, when the room temperature is already close to the lowest temperature limit they can tolerate, special attention should be paid to controlling the amount of watering, so as to ensure they can overwinter safely.

    In December, the best time for watering is the 3 to 4 hours around noon, and the water temperature should be kept basically consistent with the air temperature and soil temperature, to avoid adverse reactions in potted flowers caused by water that is too cold.

For newly transplanted flowers and trees outdoors, check frequently and give supplemental watering in time; for transplanted evergreen trees, appropriately mist the leaves around noon to prevent the leaves from drying, shrinking and falling off.

    3. Fertilizing. For most potted flowering trees, foliage plants and bonsai placed in ordinary plastic tunnels, fertilization should be stopped; otherwise, it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

For most greening trees and flowering trees planted in the ground, such as crabapple types, southern magnolia, white magnolia, purple magnolia, wood lotus, Michelia types, red maple, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, osmanthus, wintersweet, plum blossom, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, herbaceous peony, tree peony, forsythia, Hypericum, grape, Chinese rose, spiraea, tulip tree, mock orange, deutzia, pomegranate, crape myrtle, wisteria, firethorn, nandina, lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, banksia rose, Hypericum, weeping willow, Japanese cedar, deodar cedar, cypress types, dragon-claw pagoda tree, elm-leaved spirea, dwarf flowering cherry, white silk plum, photinia, redbud, and rose of Sharon, in December, while turning the garden soil, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the outer perimeter of the plant root zone, such as cake fertilizer, pig and cattle manure, pond mud, and septic tank residue, laying a material foundation for next year's growth and flowering.

For potted flower species placed indoors at 10°C to 15°C, such as camellia, sasanqua, azalea, plum blossom, wintersweet, golden shrimp plant, shrimp plant, bromeliads, winter daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, flowering quince, hyacinth, clivia, tulip, and freesia, continue to apply 1.2% monopotassium phosphate solution to promote bud formation and flowering of the plants.

    4. Pruning. Prune hedges, green walls and topiary shapes that were not fully pruned in November; hedge and green wall types such as privet, small-leaf privet, Ligustrum, large-leaf boxwood, Sabina chinensis, four-season osmanthus, and Photinia davidsoniae; topiary types such as horned holly, waxberry, photinia, boxwood types, Pittosporum, forsythia, firethorn, dragon juniper, and Chinese juniper; while completing pruning, fertilizer can be applied.

For ground-planted flowering trees not yet fully pruned in November, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, palm, red-leaf plum, photinia, plane tree, plum blossom, and wintersweet, carry out shaping and pruning; after pruning is completed, fertilizer can be buried and applied around the roots.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly shaped by pruning, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia, horned holly, Fujian tea, trident maple, Japanese oak, Fraxinus hupehensis, firethorn, Serissa, Buddhist pine, cypress, Chinese juniper, crabapple, and papaya, continue pruning in December to build a good framework for next year's growth; for plants that have not been repotted for many years, repotting can be carried out together with pruning.

    5. Pest and disease control. For flowering trees whose leaves are prone to pests and diseases, such as grape, crabapple types, rose, Chinese rose, camellia, and crape myrtle, collect the dead branches and fallen leaves under the plants and burn them, which can reduce disease occurrence the following year. At the same time, spray lime-sulfur mixture for sterilization and disinfection.

For powdery mildew on potted cineraria and gray mold on primrose, the former should be controlled in time with triadimefon or thiophanate-methyl, and the latter with thiophanate-methyl.

For flower and tree species in greenhouses and plastic tunnels that are prone to scale insects, such as bitter orange, finger citron, sago palm, camellia, and Aspidistra, first wipe them once with a cloth, then control them with pesticides such as Supracide.

For flower and tree species on which aphids often appear on potted plants when ventilation is poor, such as Michelia alba, Aglaia, bitter orange, Chinese rose, and Fujian tea, tobacco water can be used for control.

On the trunks and large branches of open-ground cultivated flower and trees such as Pittosporum, osmanthus, plane tree, camellia, small-leaf privet, firethorn, oleander, crabapple, white magnolia, redbud, gardenia, deodar cedar, photinia, crape myrtle, and wintersweet, various scale insects often appear, such as horned wax scale, Japanese wax scale, red wax scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, and felt scale; at this time, spray-kill with relatively high concentrations of pesticides such as Supracide, quinalphos, and buprofezin, and phytotoxicity is rarely produced.

    6. Composting fertilizer. To meet the needs of seedling raising and potting soil mixing next year, the idle winter time can be used to pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into water vats or pools, add water, and seal them for soaking, composting and fermentation.

Stack dry withered grass, fallen leaves, shrubs, branches, etc. in alternating layers with garden soil, set them on fire and burn them to form burned soil, which is an excellent covering soil for sowing and seedling raising next year.

Mix barnyard manure, pond mud, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc. with garden soil and compost them, sealing for fermentation; they can be used for topdressing seedlings and mixing potting soil the following year.

    7. Mixing potting soil. Using the idle winter time, find an empty plot or a spot under tree shade, and pile up as much potting soil as possible, to prepare for repotting and potting herbaceous flowers the following spring. Generally, 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts leaf mold (or 2 parts alpine humus soil), 1 part fine sand, and 1 part each of composted sawdust, tobacco powder or rice husk ash, plus about 5% composted cake fertilizer and 2% to 3% compound fertilizer. The garden soil and leaf mold should be sieved to remove stones, tree roots and other debris; after fully mixing them evenly, cover with plastic film, or they can be piled indoors. After 3 to 4 months, they can be used for repotting or potting herbaceous flowers.

    8. Turning the soil and freezing clods. For garden plots to be used next year for sowing, cutting propagation and planting out seedlings, plowing can be carried out in December; for plots for sowing and planting out seedlings, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, etc. can be applied before turning the soil; for beds not yet made, after overwintering and freezing of clods, trenches can be drawn and beds made in early spring the following year, which can greatly reduce the cost of seedling management and also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases.

Ornamental plant species suitable for bonsai shaping in December include: Buddhist pine, false cypress, Chinese juniper, cypress, soft cypress, Oriental arborvitae, creeping juniper, true juniper, black pine, five-needle pine, red pine, Adina, horned holly, holly, Euonymus pendulus, ginkgo, Serissa, Caragana, Chinese elm, Sageretia, trident maple, winter hazel, tamarisk, flowering quince, Hall crabapple, papaya crabapple, boxwood, pearl boxwood, wisteria, crape myrtle, banyan, Fujian tea, Fraxinus hupehensis, and Japanese oak.

For bonsai plants fixed and shaped with palm fiber (rope) or metal wire, if the fixation has already lasted one year, or obvious constriction marks are found on the trunk and branches, the original binding material should be removed, and metal wire or palm rope should be used anew for tying and guiding.

For ground-planted plum stumps, Buddhist pine, crabapple, ginkgo, Chinese juniper, crape myrtle, etc. that have already been shaped, after carrying out some necessary pruning and shaping, select a suitable pot and plant them well, strengthen management, so that they can be used the following year for display in public places or rooms.

In winter, careful management must be given to some shallow-pot landscape bonsai and stump bonsai: first, prevent the potting soil from freezing and injuring the plant root system; second, prevent freezing from disintegrating the artificially cemented rocks; third, prevent the plants planted on the rockery from freezing to death or drying to death. They can be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and misted regularly, so that they can overwinter safely.

Flower Growing Manual (January Chapter)

    Weather characteristics of January: This month is the month with the lowest temperature and the coldest weather of the year. January 5 is Minor Cold, around the period of the "sanjiu"; most parts of China enter a severe cold period; January 20 is Major Cold, cold air from the north moves south frequently, frost is heavy and snow is thick, and the lowest temperature of the year appears. This month, the most important thing in flower care is to do a good job in heat preservation and cold protection for cold-sensitive flowers, bonsai, etc. in greenhouses, plastic tunnels and rooms; next is auxiliary work such as tree pruning, clearing dead branches and fallen leaves, turning and preparing the land, and preparing potting soil.

I. Flower Propagation

    1. Sowing. Flower species that can be sown in greenhouses in January include: gloxinia, asparagus fern, clivia, tuberous begonia, cyclamen, winter cherry, and African daisy. Ornamental plant species that can be sown outdoors in the open field include: Chinese rose (Elizabeth), nandina, coralberry, holly, firethorn, palm, photinia, Photinia davidsoniae, soapberry, privet, wisteria, Chinese tallow tree, and goldenrain tree.

    2. Cuttage. Ornamental plant species suitable for open-field or plastic-film-covered cutting propagation in January include: plum blossom (cultivars such as Green Calyx and Gongfen), red-leaf plum, Chinese rose (cultivars such as Elizabeth, floribunda, and miniature), cherry blossom, wintersweet (with heel), spiraea, boxwood types, pomegranate, silver willow, mahonia, Buddhist pine, Serissa, Triadica, Hypericum, forsythia, spiraea, winter jasmine, and jasmine. Species that can be cutting-propagated in greenhouses include: jasmine, Chloranthus, geranium, fuchsia, African violet (leaf cuttings), Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, carnation, umbrella plant, gem plant, jade leaf, jade tree, Echeveria, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, Pilea, mirror grass, shrimp plant, golden shrimp plant, Bryophyllum, Rieger begonia, Clerodendrum, Schefflera, rubber tree, winter daphne, Excoecaria, Guangdong evergreen, pothos, and Cordyline. In addition, branches of lilac, Chinese trumpet creeper, tamarisk, grape, Weigela, deutzia, hydrangea, plane tree, and fig can be cut and stored in sand, to be cutting-propagated in March.

    3. Grafting. For superior plum cultivars, one-year-old seedlings of apricot, fruiting plum, mountain peach, and wild peach can be used as rootstocks for rootstock grafting propagation; after grafting, bury and plant them in seedbeds, cover with plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold. In Guangdong, between Minor Cold and Major Cold, bud grafting is often used to propagate four-season tangerine, kumquat, etc.; use dug-up wild rose for bud grafting superior Chinese rose cultivars, with the Elizabeth Chinese rose cultivar as rootstock-scion, cut-graft or cleft-graft superior Chinese roses, with grafting and cutting propagation carried out simultaneously, covering with plastic film to preserve moisture and protect against cold.

    4. Layering. Ornamental plant species that can be propagated by layering in January include: purple magnolia, camellia, plum blossom, weigela, gardenia, flowering quince, Buddhist pine, snowball, Chinese snowball, winter jasmine, forsythia, hydrangea, bridal wreath spiraea, spiraea, pomegranate, and red maple.

    5. Division. Herbaceous ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: lilyturf, large-leaf lilyturf, silver-edge lilyturf, Reineckea, autumn zephyr lily, pink zephyr lily, hosta, purple hosta, purple-backed Rohdea, Jianlan orchid, Cymbidium goeringii, Cymbidium faberi, sword fern, blackberry lily, iris, spider plant types, Rohdea, Guangdong evergreen, Bryophyllum, bromeliads, small tulip, shell ginger, Monstera, and aloe. Woody ornamental plant species that can be propagated by division in January include: nandina, Hypericum, mahonia, flowering quince, rhapis palm, spiraea, red-flowered spiraea, Caragana, forsythia, winter jasmine, jasmine, jasmine, Chloranthus, tiger thorn, gardenia, Triadica, boxwood, and purple magnolia.

    6. Harvesting seeds. In January, if there are mature asparagus fern or clivia seeds in the greenhouse, they can be sown immediately after collection; mature winter cherry seeds can also be sown indoors at this time. In January, seeds of nandina, firethorn, holly types, coralberry, etc. can be harvested; after treatment, carry out sand stratification for germination, and sowing can be carried out only after the seed grains crack and show white.

    In January, frequently check the seeds stored in sand, including magnolia types, Michelia types, photinia types, holly types, etc., to see whether the seed grains have become moldy. If mold appears, the seeds must be poured out and washed again, and clean fine sand replaced for storage anew; if the seed grains are found to be dry, supplemental misting should be given in time; if the seeds are found to have cracked and shown white or the radicle has already emerged, sowing must be carried out immediately, and plastic film, rice straw, pine needles, etc. added to preserve heat and moisture.

II. Transplanting and Planting Out

    In January, herbaceous flowers that can be transplanted and planted out in less cold areas include: dianthus types, ornamental kale, pot marigold, and daisy; in relatively cold areas, sown seedlings such as dianthus, ornamental kale, snapdragon, pansy, and primrose can be potted and first placed in simple plastic tunnels, and used for street flower beds, green spaces and flower borders after spring returns and the weather warms.

    In January, most deciduous flowering shrubs and greening trees can be transplanted and planted out, such as rose of Sharon, pomegranate, redbud, crabapple types, ginkgo, sweetgum, maple types, wintersweet, plum blossom, white magnolia, purple magnolia, soapberry, goldenrain tree, silk tree, horse chestnut, red-leaf plum, cherry blossom, papaya, Yulan magnolia 'Er Qiao', crape myrtle, wisteria, Chinese trumpet creeper, linden, tulip tree, ornamental peach, Chinese tallow tree, red-flowered spiraea, Triadica, Chinese rose, Chinese scholar tree, and dragon-claw pagoda tree. For evergreen tree species, especially camphor tree and Ligustrum, apart from special circumstances, transplanting this month should generally be moved earlier to December or delayed to February; of course, in wind-sheltered places, with heavy shortening pruning after transplanting and strengthened cold protection and watering management after transplanting, it is also acceptable.

    In January, although the weather is cold, areas south of the Yangtze River are not affected in collecting wild tree stumps during the process of forestry afforestation site preparation, mainly deciduous stumps, such as Chinese elm, Sageretia, trident maple, rhododendron, crape myrtle, Japanese maple, wisteria, wintersweet, wild plum, Elaeagnus, and Euonymus pendulus; for evergreen stumps, such as nandina, cat's-spine holly, horned holly, and holly, heavy shortening pruning must be done and most leaves removed. Whether deciduous stumps or evergreen stumps, the shallow-burial and high-mounding method should be adopted for cultivation, and straw curtains added to protect against freezing.

III. Cold Protection

This month's cold protection and heat preservation work is the top priority in management; even a slight negligence will bring serious losses to potted flowers and bonsai overwintering. According to the lower limit of the lowest temperature that various flower species can tolerate, create a special environment for them to overwinter safely, either in a greenhouse, in a plastic tunnel, indoors, or buried in open ground. In simple plastic tunnels with a temperature no lower than 0°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures of about 0°C can be placed, such as asparagus fern, asparagus fern, Aspidistra, Japanese aralia, Chinese fan palm, sword fern, rhapis palm, nandina, aucuba, Michelia, Cymbidium goeringii, Dendrobium, coralberry, winter daphne, sago palm, acorus, bambusa multiplex, and Pleioblastus. In double-layer plastic tunnels with a temperature no lower than 5°C, ornamental plant species that can tolerate low temperatures of about 5°C can be placed, such as Norfolk Island pine, rubber tree, jasmine, Chloranthus, Michelia alba, miniature coconut, bottle orchid, calla lily, Philodendron, Monstera, kumquat, bitter orange, lemon, areca palm, camellia, sasanqua, Jianlan orchid, Cymbidium sinense, night-blooming cereus, Epiphyllum, large Buddha belly bamboo, Belgian azalea, bougainvillea, and lantana. In double-layer plastic tunnels or greenhouses with auxiliary heating equipment, flower species that can tolerate low temperatures of about 10°C can be placed, such as croton, Caladium, arrowhead plant, prayer plant, bromeliads, pepperomia, coleus, lucky bamboo, fishtail palm, Dracaena fragrans, money tree, nerve plant, red (green) gem, green giant, green emperor, silver queen, Aglaia, large-flowered Cymbidium, Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Oncidium, Vanda, Zamioculcas, South American cycad, desert rose, Dieffenbachia, poinsettia, golden shrimp plant, and coral flower; during particularly cold periods, from 4 p.m. to 9 a.m. the next day, straw curtains should be added on top of the tunnel, and the addition of straw curtains can stop only after the temperature turns warmer. On very cold days, strengthen inspections of heating facilities and duty personnel, especially at 5 to 6 in the morning; never let the fire go out or the power fail, otherwise freezing damage to the plants is very likely. For those relatively cold-tolerant potted flower and bonsai plant species, such as wintersweet, plum blossom, crabapple types, rhododendron, pomegranate, Chinese elm, Sageretia, Japanese oak, crape myrtle, wisteria, boxwood types, Buddhist pine, trident maple, cypress, Chinese juniper, summer cypress, Oriental arborvitae, small waxberry, horned holly, holly, and Fraxinus hupehensis, they can be buried in the soil together with their pots; when the temperature is no lower than -10°C, freezing damage generally will not occur; in unusually cold weather, add film or soft grass for heat preservation.

It is worth noting that whether potted flowers or bonsai are placed in plastic tunnels, greenhouses, or rooms, including fruit-ornamental and foliage plants, besides maintaining the corresponding air temperature, ventilation and air exchange should also be done well; doors and windows can be opened around noon, when the temperature is highest in the day, for ventilation, to prevent flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop. When ventilating, also try as much as possible to avoid cold wind blowing directly on the plants.

In January, special attention should be paid to inspecting greenhouses and plastic tunnels during each cold air intrusion; if broken glass, torn film, etc. are found, plug and repair them in time, so as not to freeze the potted flowers. When supplying coal, gas or oil heating to greenhouses, also check carefully that no leaking gas or smoke enters the greenhouse or plastic tunnel, so as to prevent smoke damage, etc. from causing flower drop, leaf drop and fruit drop.

To force tree peonies to bloom at the Spring Festival, potted tree peonies can be placed in a greenhouse, heated to 18°C to 25°C during the day and kept at about 10°C at night, with 4 to 5 hours of additional lighting each day (incandescent lamps); they can be expected to bloom around the Spring Festival. Potted plum blossom, wintersweet, camellia, sasanqua, flowering quince, Hall crabapple, winter jasmine, etc. can also be placed in tunnels at about 15°C for flower forcing, with an appropriate increase in lighting time, to meet the need for indoor display of potted flowering trees during the Spring Festival. For potted hyacinth, tulip, red-cupped narcissus, freesia, etc. already placed in greenhouses in December, strengthened water and fertilizer management can also be expected to make them useful for decorative display during the Spring Festival.[page]

IV. Watering

    In January, in the watering management of potted flowers, first and most important is to pay attention to the temperature of the water used for watering and misting, that is, keep the water temperature basically consistent with the soil temperature; if the difference between the two is too great, it is very easy to cause adverse reactions in potted plants, even causing leaf drop, root rot or death. The best time for watering is the 2 to 3 hours around noon. Second, according to different plant species, determine the amount, frequency and method of watering. For most potted flowers and bonsai placed in greenhouses, plastic tunnels and rooms, it is suitable to keep the potting soil moist; when the temperature is on the low side, reduce watering accordingly; when the temperature rises, increase the amount of watering and give leaf misting. For the vast majority of foliage plants, keep the potting soil moist and also pay attention to misting the leaves, always keeping the plant leaves clean; for foliage plant species that are not very cold-tolerant, such as Dieffenbachia, arrowhead plant, prayer plant, and croton, when the temperature approaches the lower limit of the lowest temperature the plant can tolerate, especially control the amount of watering. For those potted flower species that will bloom around the Spring Festival, such as camellia, sasanqua, Belgian azalea, poinsettia, cineraria, wintersweet, plum blossom, primrose, hyacinth, kalanchoe, and pot marigold, and fruit-ornamental types such as firethorn, bitter orange, finger citron, lemon, coralberry, kumquat, kumquat, and winter cherry, not only should the potting soil be kept moist, but the plants must also be misted, to favor the swelling of the flower buds and to increase the bright color of the fruits.

   In January, although potted flowers need little water, inspections should be strengthened to prevent potted flowers placed in out-of-the-way spots from lacking water, and to give supplemental watering in time to plants whose potting soil has dried out, which can reduce the death of overwintering plants.

For newly planted greening trees and flowering shrubs, check frequently and give supplemental watering in time; especially for those evergreen ornamental plants after transplanting, appropriately mist the leaves around noon, to prevent the leaves from shrinking and falling off due to excessively dry air.

V. Fertilizing

For most greening trees and flowering shrubs planted in the ground, such as crabapples, Magnolia denudata, Magnolia grandiflora, Magnolia liliiflora, Magnolia soulangeana, manglietia, Michelia species, maples, gardenia, horse chestnut, camphor tree, linden, crape myrtle, Chinese trumpet creeper, osmanthus, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, Buddhist pine, cherry blossom, soapberry, silk tree, goldenrain tree, palm, schima, Machilus, tupelo, camptotheca, tree peony, forsythia, boxwood, grape, coral tree, Chinese rose, hydrangea, red-leaf plum, dwarf flowering cherry, elm-leaved spirea, tulip tree, deutzia, mock orange, banksia rose, Elaeocarpus, golden weeping willow, weeping elm, Japanese cedar, Taiwania, deodar cedar, Japanese pagoda tree, dragon-claw pagoda tree, white silk tree, rose of Sharon, lilac, crape myrtle, photinia, nandina, black bamboo, pomegranate, loquat, etc., if the fertilizing task was not completed in December, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, pond mud, septic tank cleanings, etc. can be buried around the outer perimeter of the tree root system while the ground is being turned, laying a good material foundation for spring growth and flowering.

For potted flowers placed in a greenhouse at about 10°C to 15°C, such as Belgian azalea, shrimp plant, gold cup flower, winter daphne, cineraria, primrose, cyclamen, red-rimmed narcissus, spectabilis chaenomeles, hyacinth, tulip, five-color bromeliad, clivia, bird of paradise, Christmas cactus, etc., low-concentration monopotassium phosphate solution can continue to be applied as a top dressing to promote plant growth and bud formation and flowering.

For most potted flowers and trees, foliage plants, bonsai, etc. placed in a greenhouse, since the plants are in a dormant state in winter, fertilizing should be stopped, otherwise it is very easy to cause root rot and death of the plants.

Six. Pruning

For hedges, green walls and topiary balls, etc. that were not pruned in December, continue pruning; for flowering shrubs that were not pruned in December, such as Chinese rose, crape myrtle, banksia rose, Chinese trumpet creeper, wisteria, floribunda rose, camphor tree, plane tree, Chinese tallow tree, photinia, pomegranate, red-leaf plum, papaya, wintersweet, Japanese apricot, palm, grape, etc., continue pruning; after pruning is completed, bury basal fertilizer around the outer perimeter of their root systems to meet the needs of their spring growth.

For bonsai plant species that are mainly pruned and supplemented by wiring, such as Chinese elm, Japanese bush cherry, bougainvillea, Fukien tea, oak, Chinese fringe tree, water willow, Elaeagnus, firethorn, serissa, Chinese juniper, etc., continue to adjust and prune according to the original composition requirements, the development and change trends of the trunk and branches, and personal aesthetic taste, laying a foundation for spring growth and shaping. While pruning, plants that have not been repotted for many years can be repotted.

Seven. Pest and Disease Control

For the trunks or large branches of crabapples, Japanese apricots, elm-leaved spirea, papaya, loquat, ornamental peach, cherry blossom, red-leaf plum, etc. that have been hollowed out by peach red-necked longhorn beetles, etc., they can be sawed off, and the sawed-off trunks and branches should be burned.

Clean up the leaves under Chinese rose, rose, grape, crape myrtle, etc., gather them and burn them in a centralized manner, which can reduce the occurrence of leaf diseases in the coming year.

For horned wax scale, tortoise wax scale, red wax scale, cottony cushion scale, armored scale, arrowhead scale, mealybug, thread scale, etc. appearing on the trunks and branches of pittosporum, plane tree, privet, firethorn, persimmon, gardenia, Japanese apricot, wintersweet, photinia, etc., spray with high-concentration Supracide, quinalphos, buprofezin, lime sulfur mixture, etc. to kill them, which can effectively suppress a major outbreak of scale insects in that year.

For powdery mildew appearing on cineraria and gray mold easily appearing on primrose leaves in the greenhouse, thiophanate-methyl can be used for control to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

For scale insects and sooty mold appearing simultaneously on plants such as bitter orange, finger citron, kumquat, etc. in the greenhouse, carry out integrated control: first use a wet cloth to wipe off the sooty mold patches on the leaves and the insect bodies attached to the dry branches, then spray dimethoate and other pesticides for control.

For gray mold appearing on cyclamen plants in the greenhouse, spray with 50% iprodione (main ingredient iprodione) wettable powder at 1000 to 1500 times dilution for control.

Eight. Composting Fertilizer

Pour rapeseed cake, soybean cake, tea seed cake, etc. into a water pool or water vat for soaking and fermentation, so as to be used for watering potted flowers during the growing season; pile withered grass, branches, fallen leaves, etc. with garden soil in layers, set on fire and burn to make homemade burned soil, which can be used as covering soil when sowing and raising seedlings in spring; mix barnyard manure, pond fertilizer, tobacco dust, chicken droppings and pigeon manure, etc. with garden soil for pile composting and fermentation, which can be used as fertilizer for preparing culture soil.

Nine. Plowing and Freezing of Soil

For nursery land that was not plowed in December, seize the time to plow in early January; while plowing the garden land, apply cake fertilizer, compound fertilizer, farmyard manure, etc. into it; after overwintering and freezing, in early spring dig furrows and make beds for sowing and planting seedlings.

Because January is especially cold, the plant species suitable for shaping must be those with soft branches, good toughness, and easy shaping operations, such as Buddhist pine, mourning cypress, ginkgo, dwarf boxwood, velvet cypress, Chinese juniper, serissa, creeping juniper, true juniper, five-needle pine, Huangshan pine, black pine, water willow, Caragana, winter hazel, winged spindle tree, banyan, wisteria, etc. After shaping, the plants are best placed indoors or in a simple plastic greenhouse, and moved outdoors only after spring returns and the weather warms, which is beneficial for the healing of parts that may have been damaged during shaping.

For plants that were shaped 1 to 2 years ago with palm rope or metal wire, etc., if obvious sunken constriction marks are found at the binding sites, the original binding materials should be removed and rewiring and training should be carried out again.

    In January, for some shallow-pot tree stump bonsai, shallow-pot landscape bonsai, and small and miniature bonsai, management must be strictly strengthened. Small and miniature bonsai should be buried in indoor sand beds; tree stump bonsai must be prevented from having the pot soil freeze, which would damage the plant's fibrous roots and could also cause the artificially cemented rocks to disintegrate; it is also necessary to prevent the plants planted on small rocks from freezing to death after being frozen, so they should be placed in a place that does not freeze, and watered and sprayed regularly, only then can they be ensured to overwinter safely.