How to trim the roots of Ariocarpus retusus? A detailed guide to care methods
Ariocarpus retusus is a plant in the cactus family, genus Ariocarpus, and is a rare and endangered species known as a "living stone," blooming profusely with delicate, vivid flowers
Ariocarpus retusus is a plant in the cactus family, genus Ariocarpus, and is a rare and endangered species (because of its rarity, large numbers of wild Ariocarpus retusus (commonly called "wild gui") have been dug up and sold, which is in fact prohibited by law). Its appearance is peculiar, much like a stone carving, and it is known as a "living stone," blooming profusely with delicate, vivid flowers. Below, the editor will explain, starting from buying an Ariocarpus retusus, how to trim its roots, plant it, and manage its care.
I. Root trimming and treatment of Ariocarpus retusus
1, Choose early spring and early autumn as the buying time, because supply is plentiful and the range to choose from is large; Ariocarpus retusus is about to enter its recovery and growth stage, so the chance of it dying is small; and it is relatively cheaper.
2, When selecting, give the Ariocarpus retusus a physical checkup. Rot, pests, and wounds (dig wounds, holes) are the main points to check. Judge whether they will affect future growth, and at the same time judge whether it is fresh and vigorous.
3, Cleaning. After getting it, first clean the overall exterior of the Ariocarpus retusus, mainly targeting mud and severely rotted or damaged tubercles.
4, After drying, thoroughly trim the roots of the Ariocarpus retusus, doing it fast, ruthlessly, and precisely. Old wounds and rotted areas must be cleaned out completely.
5, Spray on fungicide. Use two or more kinds of fungicide, no need to dilute with water, just dust the powder on, because the wounds formed after root trimming should avoid contact with water.
6, Let it dry in a shaded place. The time is several weeks (at least one month, so the wounds can heal completely. If it is a case of treating rot wounds, or if the weather stays relatively cold, or there are continuous rainy days, then potting must be postponed).
II. Planting in dry soil, the reasons for planting in dry soil:
(1) After the Ariocarpus retusus roots are trimmed, let the roots further heal completely in the small environment of the soil.
(2) Let the Ariocarpus retusus adapt to the new growing medium, just like a person shut in a coal mine for several days who, after being rescued, cannot open their eyes right away or eat right away.
After two weeks of dry planting, if all goes well, it should be more than a month and a half from the correct buying time. By then the climate should have entered the growth season for Ariocarpus retusus (those bought in early spring have roughly passed the late cold spell, those bought in early autumn have roughly passed the autumn heat). Water it, you can give it a shower, and choose a sunny day for watering. After watering, place a tissue on the soil surface and put it under the sun to bake. The effect is to improve the soil's microenvironment, which helps root development. After that, begin normal care.
III. Daily care
Soil: For the soil chosen for planting Ariocarpus retusus, it is recommended to use, besides vegetable garden soil, directly crushed rock mixed in, which not only enhances the drainage performance of the pot but can also break down soluble calcium, which is greatly beneficial to the plant's survival.
Temperature: Ariocarpus retusus has strong adaptability to planting temperature, similar to the survival ability of rocks, and can adapt to both extremes of high and low temperature, with a minimum tolerable temperature of 5°C and a maximum temperature of around 40°C.
Light: Ariocarpus retusus mainly requires soft light; indoor incandescent light and heat have no great benefit. Second, it is necessary to ensure at least 8 hours or more of light each day, mainly decided according to seasonal changes. It is recommended to place it directly in a spot indoors with ample light, supplementing photosynthesis through diffused light, and during this period ensure it is in a state of air circulation.
Water: Ariocarpus retusus is a cactus family plant; watering can follow cactus care details, mainly irrigating with sufficient water during the growing season. Under normal circumstances, soil moisture should be kept at around 30%, avoiding long-term water accumulation in the pot; always pay attention to the moisture inside the pot, as frequent water accumulation easily leads to root rot.
Fertilizing: For Ariocarpus retusus, relying on water to supplement nutrients is not complete, and not fertilizing will cause the plant's growing environment to make it prone to wilting and similar phenomena. During the growth period, at intervals of half a month, apply a small amount of compound fertilizer, which can be mixed with clean water, containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium elements.
The above is the planting and care process for Ariocarpus retusus. It is reported that currently in China only a small number of botanical gardens, research institutes, and other units carry out garden introduction and cultivation of Ariocarpus retusus and other plants of the genus Ariocarpus through normal legal channels, and there is no large-scale garden production and application for now, which also causes the market scarcity of this type of plant and its high market price. However, the editor wants to remind all flower lovers that a gentleman loves flowers and obtains them in a proper way; exercising self-discipline and cultivating and protecting plants through legal and reasonable means, and protecting wild endangered succulents, is the duty of every succulent lover.
Determined to build a science popularization building about succulent knowledge, striving to collect and repost... updating common summer-type species and winter-type species
This post was last edited by Honeypot on 2014-8-29 16:28The material was collected and reposted by me from various places, I hope it is helpful to everyone
1. What are succulents --
Succulents are also called succulent plants or fleshy plants, and in horticulture are sometimes called succulent flowers, but the name succulent plant is the most commonly used. Succulent plants refer to plants in which a certain part of the vegetative organ, such as the stem or leaf or root (a few species have two parts), has developed parenchyma tissue used to store water, making them appear thick and juicy in appearance. Most of them grow in arid regions or regions that are arid for part of the year, and for a long period each year the roots cannot absorb water, so they rely only on the water stored in their bodies to sustain life. Sometimes people like to call this type of plant desert plants or psammophytes, which is not quite accurate. Succulents do indeed have many that grow in desert regions, but they do not all grow in deserts, and deserts also grow many plants that are not succulents.
2. Classification of common succulents --
There are more than ten thousand species of succulents in the world, among which common succulents include the cactus family, Aizoaceae, Euphorbiaceae, Crassulaceae, Liliaceae, Asclepiadaceae, Agavaceae, and Asteraceae. In the Bromeliaceae, Commelinaceae, Apocynaceae, Portulacaceae, and Vitaceae, some species are also commonly cultivated. In recent years, succulents from the Fouquieriaceae, Didiereaceae, Cucurbitaceae, Moraceae, Moringaceae, and Dioscoreaceae have also been introduced, but they are still very rare at present.
3. Various terms related to succulents
[Leggy growth] means growing a long neck, like a bean sprout. The main reasons are insufficient light and too much watering.
[Old stump] grown for many years, old leaves fall off, leaving a stem covered in scars.
[Beheading] a method of propagation. Cut off the head of the succulent. Then use it for [stem cutting]. A method of propagation, not applicable to all varieties.
[Leaf cutting] peel off the leaves of the succulent, place them facing up on the soil, and wait for them to take root and sprout. A method of propagation, not applicable to all varieties.
[Stem cutting] insert the beheaded succulent into loose, low-water soil and wait for it to take root and sprout. A method of propagation, not applicable to all varieties.
[Aerial roots] can take root without touching the soil, as long as conditions allow. Both [beheading] and [leaf cutting] can do this.
[Cresting] simply put, it is a deformity, though some crests are very beautiful. It is when, affected by external factors, it grows into a clump or a strip beyond its original proper state.
[Turning to water] excessive water or dampness causes the leaves and root stem to rot and become transparent, and finally disappear.]
[Common goods] relatively common varieties that are relatively cheap and easy to propagate.
[Open-air growing] literally: growing in the open air, which can also be called rough growing.
[Clustering] a state in which a single mother plant has multiple small offsets growing together. Many varieties will cluster, a typical one being Self-Sustaining Years.
[Cutting off water] means stopping watering.
[Fading] losing the color it originally should have because of a poor growing environment.
[Molting] it seems only Lithops species molt. The butt blooms, sheds a layer of skin, and grows a ring larger.
[Pot-bursting] literally, a full pot.
[Dormancy] depending on the variety, entering a dormant state in certain seasons, stopping growth or growing slowly.
[Top dressing] using beautiful medium to spread on the pot soil surface for decoration; it is recommended not to use too light a medium, to avoid splashing caused by watering and wind.
[Bare-root] generally means without a pot. This term is often seen when shopping online.
[Enclosed growing] means creating a greenhouse effect, adding a lid or covering with film.
[Drying roots] newly bought succulents need to wait until the roots are dry before potting, to avoid root rot; succulents bought online basically all need to be dried a bit. Of course, some thoughtful shop owners dry them before shipping.
[Variegation] a kind of color mutation in succulents. Basically XX variegation, anything with variegation is a good thing.
4. About shoots [Offsets] as the name suggests, offsets can be subdivided into the following types ↓
[Butt shoot] an offset sprouting from the base of the plant, generally used to describe Haworthia, and relatively favored by enthusiasts.
[Head] the half with the growth point when beheading; among Haworthia enthusiasts, a head produced by a good mother plant will be priced far above offsets from other positions.
[Beheading seedling]: a seedling obtained through beheading; generally its appearance is better than butt shoots and cutting seedlings.
[Cutting seedling]: as the name suggests, cutting seedlings can be subdivided into the following types ↓
[Leaf-cutting seedling]: a small seedling obtained through leaf cutting; depending on the position of the leaf selected, the appearance of the seedling differs noticeably -- not obvious in Crassulaceae, very obvious in Haworthia.
[Stem-cutting seedling]: mainly obtained by cutting the stem or rooting a head.
[Root-cutting seedling]: it is said only Haworthia can succeed at this.
[Tubercle-cutting seedling]: it is said only some cacti with tubercles can succeed at this.
[Tissue-culture seedling]: a seedling obtained through plant tissue culture technology.
5. About plant sources [Wild specimen] a plant collected from the wild; buying it is strongly not recommended; without buying and selling there is no poaching.
[Wild species] wild varieties from the place of origin, including original species and natural hybrids.
[Original species] a type of plant that can give rise to other new biological types.
[Hybrid species] a variety produced by crossing original species, also called a "crossbred species."
[Natural hybrid] a variety produced by crossing original species under natural conditions.
[Artificial hybrid] the same reasoning applies.
[Horticultural variety] an artificial hybrid with certain special ornamental uses.
[Seed-grown specimen] a plant developed from seed that has not been grafted.
[Grafted specimen] a plant in a grafted state, generally cacti, occasionally Euphorbia.
[Landed specimen] the state of a grafted plant in which the rootstock is cut off and only the scion is kept.
[Woody-core root] a landed specimen that retained the woody core of the rootstock during the landing process, referring to roots grown from the woody core.
[Own roots] in the broad sense, own-root specimens include seed-grown specimens; generally a plant with the words own-root refers to when, upon landing, the rootstock is completely removed and the roots are the scion's roots.
Reposted from the internet
Note:
Rootstock: the plant that bears the scion during graft propagation.
Scion: in plant grafting operations, the buds, branches, and other meristem tissue used to graft onto the rootstock are called the scion.
6. Professional abbreviations
[Yu] abbreviation for the cactus family genus Lophophora; generally used when speaking broadly of the genus Lophophora, with subdivisions abbreviated as Yin, Cui, Wu, etc. --
[Niu] Gasteria --
[Xiang] Haworthia maughanii --
[Niao] some things in Aizoaceae whose names end with the character "niao"; the most famous one does not have the character niao, and is Green Light Ring --
[He] refers to the Ruihe line under the hard-leaf group of Haworthia --
[Gui] generally refers to Dioscorea elephantipes, and in a few cases refers to Ariocarpus retusus --
[Wild gui] specifically refers to Ariocarpus retusus --
[Long] generally refers to Agave, in a few cases refers to Dioscorea elephantipes, and in extremely few cases refers to Didierea
[Feng] refers to Astrophytum myriostigma
7. About soil and medium There are many kinds of soil suitable for succulents, roughly including: akadama soil, kanuma soil, hyuga soil, volcanic rock, pumice, humus soil, Xiantu soil, peat, perlite, pumice stone, vermiculite, ceramsite, coal cinder, and so on.
High-end tier medium: akadama soil, kanuma soil, hyuga soil, volcanic rock, pumice, Xiantu soil, and so on. You generally cannot dig up these soils, you have to spend money to get them... not absolutely, some people grow great plants with cheap soil, and greenhouse propagation of common goods also cannot use such good medium.
Budget tier medium: humus soil, coal cinder, charcoal scraps, plant ash, perlite, and so on. These are simple, easy-to-get media that can be bought at the flower market without spending much money, economical and practical, and the effect is not necessarily worse than professional succulent soil.
The medium itself is not the problem; the ratio of the medium combined with water and sunlight is the real key!! (*￣ω￣)
Generally beginners are advised to buy special soil pre-mixed by the shop; once you have some experience you can try mixing it yourself. The ratio is a very profound issue, I do not understand it at all, and I welcome the experts to come and explain it.
The poster's own suggestion: whether the container has holes or not, it is recommended to use pure granular soil. As TB shops say -- it retains fertilizer, retains moisture, is breathable, and is rich in multi-dimensional elements. It can relatively also reduce pests and diseases.
8. Containers Pots can be roughly divided into three major categories [with drainage holes] [without drainage holes] [irregular pots]
[With holes]
Ordinary flower pots generally have drainage holes; for succulents, drainage is very important, and as long as water is controlled, succulents can all grow superbly.
There are also many choices of flower pot material, such as ceramic, terracotta, metal, plastic, and so on.
Ceramic flower pots are generally quite beautiful, with a layer of glaze sealed on the surface, so the pot itself does not absorb water or breathe; because the appearance is attractive, it is also the most common.
Terracotta pots are also called international pots; the whole thing is a treasure that breathes and absorbs water. Personally I think using it to grow succulents is quite suitable, and it is also quite suitable for beginners. After watering, a terracotta pot changes color because it absorbs water, and when the water has mostly drained away the pot returns to its original color. This characteristic can be used to control moisture. However, relatively speaking, moisture is lost rather quickly, so watering needs to be more frequent. It is also not as attractive as other craft pots.
Small black (white) square pots, cheap... cheap... still cheap... a few mao each, and they look good arranged.
[Without holes]
For glass containers, wooden boxes, iron buckets, and other pots without holes, the bottom layer must be well laid with things like ceramsite and pumice stone. It is recommended to use pure granular soil for holeless containers.
9. Tools
[Tweezers] I think the most, most, most essential must-have for growing succulents; with tweezers it feels like having divine help. I feel everything else can be optional.
[Watering can] Many succulents have powder on the surface; that powder exists only once in a lifetime, and once wiped off it is gone, so watering must be done very carefully. When I am lazy I use a rubber bulb instead of a watering can, sucking up water and squirting it at the roots.
[Spray bottle] Succulents without powder can all be sprayed, replacing watering to supplement moisture; plant surfaces all have the function of absorbing and releasing water. There is one drawback: when dry it leaves water stains.
[Brush] After planting, there is often dust, sand, and other granular dirt on top, which can be removed with a brush. Do not use it on those with powder.
[Air blower] What the brush cannot reach, use the blower; otherwise blowing with your mouth also works. Pay attention to the force, do not blow away the top dressing.
[Plant labels] Record the variety name or the date, and so on. Just DIY them with a backing board. 2 yuan gets you several dozen labels.
[Small shovel/pot shovel] When fixing plants in small pots, the soil needs to be put in from the edges; using a shovel saves your hands from getting dirty, and it is also less likely to dirty the plant or spill outside.
[Transfer pot] When repotting or fixing plants, you can temporarily hold them or collect soil scattered during the process; soil is expensive, do not spill it
Mainly it is a hygiene issue, and you will not get nagged.
[Slow-release fertilizer/insecticide] No need to explain this...
[Grow light] To supplement light during continuous cloudy days.
10. Detailed potting steps Note: reposted; personally I think steps 2 and 3 are unnecessary
1, No matter whether bought from a flower market, a greenhouse, or online, throw away all the original pot's soil. (Online purchases are generally bare-root)
2. Wash the roots of the plant. Make sure that basically all the soil carried on the roots is rinsed off. This is because it very likely contains a large number of insect eggs and bacteria. Be gentle when washing; some root damage is unavoidable, but keep it to a minimum. You can hold the roots in a basin of water and swish them back and forth. It is advisable not to turn on a large faucet and blast them with a strong stream of water, as this will break off a large number of roots. Swish and soak them repeatedly this way several times; once you can see the white main roots, that is enough.
3. After cleaning the roots, if you feel it is necessary, do some root trimming. Cut off the diseased and dead roots that have turned black or are even just hollow shells. Also trim back appropriately those lateral roots that are overly long and heavily tangled, to encourage new fibrous roots to grow. This will make the whole root system look evenly distributed and neat. After root trimming, the newly regenerated root system will be strengthened, making the plant grow more robustly. If you do not feel confident about it, you can also skip the trimming; it does not matter, as long as you remove the dead and diseased roots.
4. At this point the roots will certainly have some damage, so dry the plant's roots. Note that this means natural air-drying. Generally, it can be potted the same day (within a few hours).
6. Prepare the medium in advance. The methods for choosing a medium are described above, for your reference.
7、
Choose the pot. Personally, I suggest that for Crassulaceae succulents, a ceramic pot is the best match. For Haworthia, you can choose a resin or plastic pot. If you are an "appearance above all" type, then you can choose a porcelain pot, but it must have a hole in the bottom. Do not even consider things like metal containers or woven rattan baskets; rust and mold will drive you crazy when the time comes. It may not be obvious at first, but over time you will understand; it is basically sending the succulent into the tiger's mouth. Do not let your imagination run wild and then end up swallowing the bitter fruit yourself, ha!
8. Put the medium into the pot. The principle is: large particles at the bottom layer, small particles at the top layer, to help with drainage.
9. Plant the plant and cover with soil until the root area is completely covered. You can use akadama, kanuma, etc. for top dressing; vermiculite or various kinds of gravel are not recommended. Spray a layer of water on the soil surface so the soil is slightly moist; just a little humidity is enough, to help new roots sprout. The saying is "moist soil, dry planting"; note that it is not "wet soil, dry planting"! A one-character difference still makes a difference.
10. Just after potting, place the plant in a spot with bright, indirect light; direct scorching sun is not suitable. Keep it ventilated and cool, and do not water. Next comes the acclimatization stage.
11. After one week, resume watering, restore full sun, and return to normal care. During the acclimatization period, if you feel the potting soil is too dry, you can spray a thin mist of water or fungicide on the soil surface every day, only to increase humidity; be careful to stop at the right point! After the acclimatization period, you must give water decisively, otherwise the plant will continue to wilt, become weak and drop leaves due to lack of water, and the mortality rate may increase.
Actually, all these plans of mine are the most conservative approach. Many succulent varieties are hardier than you can imagine. After growing them for a long time, you will find that these methods are actually too cumbersome, and only the more delicate varieties need such a complicated process. Hehe, but if you have not been around succulents for long and have not yet fully grasped their habits, then it is still better to follow the conservative plan. If you are already an experienced grower, then just do everything as usual. One last wordy note: this potting method can only be carried out during the growing season; do not do it during the dormant period. If you want to force it anyway, that is possible too, but at the same time be prepared to take responsibility for the consequences of your actions...
11. Plant condition after potting
Generally, after potting a succulent, you will find that it either goes all limp or keeps dropping leaves. Many flower lovers get terribly anxious and look everywhere for a doctor and medicine, but at this time you need to analyze calmly. (In fact, most results are situation 2 below; you are worrying over nothing.)
Situation 1: You did not fully follow my potting method above. Therefore, check whether the roots or the plant became infected by bacteria after potting. Or the plant already had disease and damage when it was purchased, or the potting soil was not thoroughly sterilized. After ruling out damage and pests, it is bacterial infection. Too high a moisture level in the substrate is the most common factor causing bacterial infection, so do not water thoroughly in advance during acclimatization. This is because at this time the roots have not recovered their ability to absorb nutrients and water at all; too much water in the substrate will only cause bacteria to multiply massively and increase the chance of root rot.
Situation 2: No need to worry at all, because this is a normal phenomenon.
When a plant is just potted, its roots will inevitably be damaged, so acclimatization is actually acclimating the roots. While the roots have not fully recovered and cannot normally absorb nutrients and water, the plant will rely on consuming the nutrients stored in the outer old leaves to maintain normal physiological functions and the growth of new tissues. Therefore, the state it shows is limp stems and leaves, and the outer old leaves gradually shrivel and fall off.
At this time you do not need to worry at all about what health problem the plant has. After the root system recovers, the old leaves will stop shriveling and dropping, and then the plant's growing point will begin to show activity and start growing. However, old leaf drop is something that happens to healthy plants too; it is just that plants whose roots have not recovered will show old leaves dropping very quickly. At this time, the old leaves are sacrificing themselves for the greater good. The way to judge whether the root system has resumed growth is that you can gently hold the stem with your hand and lift the plant a little, to feel whether the plant has a slight "grip on the soil"; this lets you judge whether the roots have already taken hold. But do not use too much force and pull the plant out.
Old leaves that fall off after their nutrients are exhausted have basically turned into a piece of kraft paper. After the old leaves become soft and dry, you do not need to remove them in advance; after the nutrients are completely used up, they will naturally fall off. If you remove them in advance before their nutrients are completely consumed, it is equivalent to speeding up the fall of another leaf. They all fall off in order.
Then, for plants that have passed the acclimatization period, those that should be watered should have their normal watering frequency restored. Do not keep tiptoeing around and not daring to give water, otherwise even if the root system recovers health, it will not be able to absorb and provide sufficient nutrients and water for the plant, and the plant will remain wilted, weak or even dropping leaves, and will never reach the best ornamental effect.
Source: Hao Duo Rou
12. About watering amount
Liliaceae (Liliaceae) Haworthia (Haworthia),
winter-growing type, grows as usual in winter, dormant in summer. Common ones include Haworthia fasciata, Haworthia 'Jincheng', Haworthia cooperi, Haworthia truncata, Haworthia maughanii, Haworthia cymbiformis, Haworthia cooperi var. obtusa, Haworthia retusa, etc.
Month_________Watering amount
January_______extremely small amount or no water
February_______ small amount
March_______ large amount
April_______ large amount
May_______ small amount
June_______ small amount
July_______ extremely small amount or no water
August_______ extremely small amount or no water
September_______ small amount
October_______ large amount
November______small amount
December______ small amount
Succulent watering amount reference table (2)
Crassulaceae (Crassulaceae) Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe), summer-growing type, grows as usual in summer, dormant in winter. Common ones include
Kalanchoe luciae, Kalanchoe humilis, Kalanchoe tomentosa, Kalanchoe beharensis, Kalanchoe rhombopilosa, etc.
Month ______ Watering amount
January _____extremely small amount or no water
February _____small amount
March _____large amount
April _____large amount
May _____large amount
June _____small amount
July _____extremely small amount or no water
August _____small amount
September _____small amount
October _____large amount
November____large amount
December____small amount
Agavaceae (Agavaceae)
Agave (Agave), summer-growing type, grows as usual in summer, dormant in winter. Common ones include Agave americana, Agave potatorum, Agave stricta, Agave victoriae-reginae, etc.
Sansevieria (Sansevieria), summer-growing type, grows as usual in summer, dormant in winter. Common ones include Sansevieria trifasciata, Sansevieria trifasciata 'Hahnii', Sansevieria gracilis, etc.
Month ______ Watering amount
January _____extremely small amount or no water
February _____extremely small amount or no water
March _____small amount
April _____small amount
May _____large amount
June _____large amount
July _____large amount
August _____large amount
September _____large amount
October _____small amount
November____small amount
December____small amount
Succulent watering amount reference table (3)
Aizoaceae (Aizoaceae)
Faucaria (Faucaria), spring-autumn-growing type. Common ones include Faucaria tigrina, Faucaria tuberculosa, Faucaria felina, Faucaria candida, Faucaria 'Daxuexi', etc.
Month ______ Watering amount
January _____small amount
February _____small amount
March _____small amount
April _____large amount
May _____large amount
June _____small amount
July _____small amount
August _____small amount
September _____small amount
October _____large amount
November____large amount
December____small amount
13. Common succulent varieties (summer-growing type) and (winter-growing type), being updated
| Reposted from Tahua for everyone to see: (1) Common summer-growing types (referring to varieties that do not go dormant in summer and grow vigorously) succulents 1. Cactaceae: Most cactus family plants belong to the summer-growing type. 2. Euphorbiaceae: Most Euphorbiaceae plants belong to the summer-growing type (I have Euphorbia horrida, Euphorbia aeruginosa, Euphorbia decaryi) 3. Kalanchoe: Common ones include Kalanchoe luciae, Kalanchoe rhombopilosa, Kalanchoe porphyrocalyx, Kalanchoe 'Jindie', Kalanchoe tomentosa 'Black', Kalanchoe tomentosa 'White', Kalanchoe humilis, Kalanchoe tomentosa, Kalanchoe beharensis, etc. 4. Crassula: Common ones include Crassula 'Huazan', Crassula lycopodioides, Crassula falcata, Crassula ovata, Crassula capitella 'Campfire', Crassula muscosa, Crassula perfoliata var. minor, etc. 5. Orostachys: Common ones include Orostachys malacophylla, Orostachys 'Phoenix', Orostachys 'Fuji', Orostachys iwarenge, Orostachys 'Yannianhua', Orostachys spinosa, etc. 6. Agave: Common ones include Agave americana, Agave potatorum, Agave potatorum 'Kichiokan', Agave stricta, Agave victoriae-reginae, etc. 7. Caralluma: Common ones include Caralluma hesperidum, Caralluma acutangula, Caralluma europaea, Caralluma edulis, Caralluma speciosa, etc. 8. Ceropegia: Common ones include Ceropegia woodii, Ceropegia linearis subsp. woodii, etc. 9. Beaucarnea: Beaucarnea recurvata 10. Sansevieria: Sansevieria trifasciata 11. Aloe: Aloe arborescens, Aloe nobilis, etc. 12. Sempervivum: Sempervivum 'Baihui', Sempervivum arachnoideum, etc. 13. Echeveria: Echeveria laui, Echeveria 'Black Prince', Echeveria chihuahuaensis, Echeveria elegans, Echeveria shaviana, Echeveria 'Red', Echeveria 'Yamato', Echeveria 'White Peony' (summer-spring-autumn-growing type), etc. 14. Adenium: Adenium obesum, Adenium somalense 15. Pachypodium: Pachypodium lamerei, Pachypodium densiflorum, Pachypodium brevicaule, Pachypodium geayi, etc. 16. Plumeria: Plumeria obtusa 17. Alluaudia: Alluaudia procera, Alluaudia ascendens, Alluaudia comosa 18. Pedilanthus: Pedilanthus tithymaloides, Pedilanthus macrocarpus, Pedilanthus coalcomanensis, etc. 19. Cissus: Cissus quadrangularis 20. Anacampseros: Anacampseros telephiastrum 'Sunrise', Anacampseros rufescens, Anacampseros 'Huachuixue', etc. 21. Portulacaria: Portulacaria afra, Portulacaria afra 'Variegata', Portulacaria 'Purple Rice', etc. 22. Portulaca: Portulaca pilosa, Portulaca 'Wildfire', Portulaca 'White Master', etc. 23. Stapelia: Stapelia variegata, Stapelia gigantea, Stapelia grandiflora, Stapelia 'Yaoxingjiao', etc. 24. Delosperma: Delosperma echinatum, Delosperma 'Lihuang', Delosperma 'Zhuangluan' 25. Fenestraria: Fenestraria rhopalophylla, Fenestraria rhopalophylla subsp. aurantiaca 26. Gibbaeum: Gibbaeum heathii, Gibbaeum 'Round-leaf' 27. Dorstenia: Dorstenia gigas, Dorstenia hildebrandtii 28. Commelina: Commelina, etc. Blue Senecio, Pachyphytum 'Peach Beauty', Pachyphytum 'Star Beauty', and Echeveria 'Hongzhilian' are all plants with no obvious dormant period. Echeveria 'White Peony' is a Crassulaceae hybrid belonging to the summer-growing type, dormant in winter. 29. Glottiphyllum: Glottiphyllum 'Himebenikomatsu' 30. Hybrid of Graptopetalum and Echeveria: Echeveria 'White Peony' 31. Jatropha: Jatropha podagrica 32. Rhipsalis: Rhipsalis paradoxa (Rhipsalis 'Qingliu') Osteospermum 'Baifengju' (Aizoaceae, genus Oscularia), Blue Senecio, Pachyphytum 'Peach Beauty', Pachyphytum 'Star Beauty', Echeveria 'Hongzhilian', Crassula 'Ruo Geshi' (genus Crassula), Orostachys 'Phoenix'... are all plants with no obvious dormant period. (3) Common "winter-growing type" and "spring-autumn-growing type" (that is, dormant in summer, growing in winter, spring and autumn) succulents 1. Haworthia: Common ones include Haworthia fasciata, Haworthia cymbiformis, Haworthia cooperi var. obtusa, Haworthia retusa, Haworthia 'Jincheng', Haworthia cooperi, Haworthia truncata, Haworthia maughanii, etc. 2. Bowiea (Bowiea spp.): Common species include Bowiea volubilis (mine is Bowiea volubilis, the smaller one) 3. Haworthia (Haworthia spp.): Common ones include Haworthia fasciata 'Concolor', Haworthia cooperi, Haworthia truncata, Haworthia 'Zhaoyu', Haworthia 'Dinosaur', Haworthia obtusa, etc. 4. Crassula (Crassula spp.): Common ones include Crassula 'Ba', Crassula 'Yuchun', Crassula rupestris (green tower), Crassula 'Duxing', Crassula 'Luqianhui', Crassula 'Xingyinv', Crassula 'Dragon Palace City', Crassula 'Lique', etc. 5. Sedum (spring-autumn growing type): Common ones include Sedum 'Mingyue', Sempervivum 'Guanyinlian', Sedum morganianum, Sedum 'Yinvxin', Sedum pachyphyllum, Sedum rubrotinctum, Sedum makinoi, etc. 6. Aeonium (spring-autumn growing type): Aeonium 'Cancan', Aeonium 'Huaye Hanyueye', Aeonium 'Airangjin', Aeonium 'Mingjing', Aeonium 'Yanrihui', Aeonium 'Xiying', Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop', etc. 7. Lithops (Lithops spp.): Common ones include Lithops, Lithops 'Huawenyu', Lithops 'Rilunyu', Lithops 'Zhuxianyu', Lithops 'Madame Li', etc. 8. Conophytum (Conophytum spp.): Conophytum 'Shaojiang', Conophytum 'Jiguang', Conophytum 'Guangyuanshi', Conophytum 'Angel' 9. Pleiospilos (spring-autumn growing type): Common ones include Pleiospilos nelii 'Diyu', Pleiospilos 'Qingluan', Pleiospilos 'Fengluan', etc. 10. Glottiphyllum (spring-autumn growing type): Common ones include Glottiphyllum 'Anlv', Glottiphyllum 'Zaoyinv', Glottiphyllum 'Zhehe', etc. 11. Adromischus (spring-autumn growing type): Adromischus cristatus, Adromischus 'Shenxiangqu', Adromischus 'Yusuo Jin', etc. 12. Cotyledon (spring-autumn growing type): Cotyledon tomentosa, Cotyledon 'Xubo Zhiguang', Cotyledon orbiculata 'Funiang', Cotyledon undulata, etc. 13. Cotyledon: Cotyledon 'Afanggong', Cotyledon 'Qifeng Jin', Cotyledon 'Shashanhu' 14. Graptopetalum (spring-autumn growing type): Graptopetalum 'Meililian', Graptopetalum paraguayense, Graptopetalum 'Bieluzhu' 15. Anacampseros (Anacampseros spp.): Anacampseros 'Yincan', Anacampseros 'Xuechange', Anacampseros 'Renjin', Anacampseros 'Quncan' 16. Faucaria (Faucaria spp.): Faucaria 'Qunbo', Faucaria 'Sihaibo', Faucaria 'Huangbo', Faucaria 'Nubo', Faucaria 'Xuebo', Faucaria 'Daxuexibo' 17. Bergeranthus (Bergeranthus spp.): Bergeranthus 18. Rhombophyllum (Rhombophyllum spp.): Rhombophyllum dolabriforme, etc. 19. Frithia (Frithia spp.): Frithia pulchra 20. Titanopsis (Titanopsis spp.): Titanopsis calcarea, Titanopsis 'Tiannv Guan', Titanopsis 'Tiannv Zan' 21. Dinteranthus (Dinteranthus spp.): Dinteranthus 'Lingyao Yu', Dinteranthus 'Nanman Yu' 22. Delosperma (spring-autumn growing type): Delosperma 'Xiaosongbo', Delosperma 'Xibao', Delosperma 'Zihuangxing', etc. 23. Glottiphyllum (spring-autumn growing type): Glottiphyllum 'Baolv', etc. Those not marked as (spring-autumn growing type) are all winter growing type. Ruschia, purple mother-of-thousands, string of pearls are spring-autumn growing type. 24. Hereroa (spring-autumn-winter growing type): Hereroa 25. Portulacaria (Portulacaria spp.): Portulacaria afra (suitable for 20-32°C temperature), should be a short summer dormancy type. 26. Asteraceae Senecio (spring-autumn-winter growing type): Senecio 'Qibaoshu', Senecio rowleyanus, Senecio 'Xuanyue', Senecio 'Zimandao' 27. Sempervivum (Sempervivum spp.): Sempervivum 'Zimudan' (Sempervivum 'Dahong Juanjuan'), Sempervivum arachnoideum (winter growing type, grows in spring and autumn) 28. Echeveria (Echeveria spp.): Echeveria 'Luna Lian', Echeveria 'Zizhenzhu', Echeveria 'Houye Xuhe', Echeveria 'Yudie' 29. Haworthia (Haworthia spp.): Haworthia 'Jingzhihua Jin' (short summer dormancy) 30. Aizoaceae Ruschia (Ruschia spp.): Ruschia 31. Aizoaceae, Delosperma (Delosperma spp.): Delosperma 'Qiusong' (Delosperma 'Xiaosonglv') Additionally: Blue Senecio, Pachyphytum 'Tao Meiren', and Graptosedum 'Xingmeiren' are all plants with no obvious dormancy period. |