What to do if a Frailea doesn't bloom? Master these little tricks to encourage flowering
Frailea is a genus in the cactus family. Its plant form is very delicate and compact, and under light exposure it turns purplish-red, very beautiful, and quite popular among succulent enthusiasts. Below, the editor will talk about the planting and care techniques for Frailea.
I. How to grow Frailea
1. Frailea's temperature requirements
The most suitable growing temperature is generally between 20 and 30 degrees, and at most it must not exceed 35 degrees; the growing temperature must not be lower than 5 degrees. In winter, to overwinter safely, always pay attention to temperature regulation, and the drier the potting soil, the more cold-tolerant it is. The winter temperature should be relatively stable and low; if the temperature difference between day and night is large, frost damage is likely to occur. In spring, when the temperature reaches above 15 degrees, it will begin to grow; in summer, when the temperature reaches above 35 degrees, it will quickly enter a dormant state, and only after autumn can it begin to grow again.
2. Frailea's light requirements
Frailea quite likes sunlight. Under strong sunlight, it will turn purplish-red, and the flowers will also be very vivid. Therefore, it must be given plenty of light, especially in winter when sunlight is even more necessary. In summer, appropriate shading is needed to avoid direct strong light.
3. The water quality for watering Frailea
The water used for watering must not contain too much salt. Generally, rainwater and well water are both fine. But the water temperature must not be too low; generally, close to the air temperature is good. If it is tap water, it needs to be placed in a jar for 1 to 2 days before use. If you keep fish at home, using the water from the fish tank to water it will give even better results. So when watering, you must pay attention to water quality.
4. Frailea needs timely repotting
Young Frailea plants need to be repotted once every year. Grown plants do not need this, but after a period of time, the nutrients in the pot will begin to decrease, the root system will fill the potting soil, or due to frequent watering, the soil will become very hard, which is not conducive to drainage and aeration and easily causes root rot. Therefore, generally, repotting is done once every 2 to 3 years. Only in this way can it better absorb nutrients.
5. Sowing time for Frailea
When the seeds of Frailea plants mature is the best time for sowing; sowing can begin in summer from July to August. The seeds of the genus Frailea have a shorter shelf life than those of other genera, so it is best to sow them fresh right after harvesting. Within half a year, the germination rate is almost always above 95%; after one year it will drop to between 50% and 80%; after two years, they almost cannot germinate well at all.
II. Little tricks to encourage Frailea to bloom
1. The more sufficient the light, the naturally easier it is to bloom.
2. At the beginning of the flowering period (the flowering period of the genus Frailea in Wuhan is about June to September each year), keep it in a dry state for a long time, then choose a day with continuous sunny weather and suddenly increase water and fertilizer; this has the effect of shock-promoting flowering (of course, if you are unlucky and the weather suddenly changes after the shock begins, with one or two days of overcast rain, then instead of shocking out a flower, it will do the opposite and shock out a bunch of seed pods; after a large consumption of nutrients, you may have to wait for this bunch of seed pods to mature one by one for the entire flowering period, and you will not see a single flower).
3. You can add phosphorus fertilizer in winter and before the flowering period, and at the same time appropriately use auxin at a suitable concentration before the flowering period; this has a certain effect of promoting flowering.
The above are the Frailea growing and care techniques introduced by the editor. Friends who love succulents, hurry up and plant a pot!
Frailea flowering experience and tricks to encourage flowering
Many friends ask about Frailea flowering, and some flower lovers wonder why my Frailea doesn't bloom? In fact, this question can have many answers. The flowers of Frailea plants are all yellow, but there will be some differences between different varieties; however, they are all very large, usually larger than the body of the plant itself, and as the plant grows, the flowers also get bigger and bigger. So flowering is a matter that consumes a great deal of nutrients and water, and for Frailea plants, which are small varieties, it is not easy!The genus Frailea actually has an extremely strong "desire to reproduce" (possibly related to its short lifespan), so it is very "precocious," and it is a genus with a great many "flowers" and a long flowering period, "blooming continuously." However, because it is originally a small species and can reach sexual maturity in just 2 years, how big can the plant be then? So even if it wants to bloom, it cannot! The result is that it has the ability to bloom, but not the strength needed to bloom, so it simply goes straight to setting fruit. Early Frailea are all like this; in the first year of sexual maturity they generally have no figs, and the seeds are also very few. If grown well, they can truly bloom in the second year.
The second reason for not blooming is that although early (3 to 5 years) Frailea plants have initially acquired the strength to bloom, as young plants they do not have much nutrient reserve, because the places of origin of Frailea plants are sometimes very dry and have a great deal of light, and flowering will lose a large amount of water, so they must carefully decide whether to bloom, and therefore the requirements for flowering conditions are very high! Even if they bloom, the flowering period of each flower is also very short, usually just one afternoon. Therefore, whether they can bloom also depends on luck!
First, the plant must be healthy;
Second, from the early stage of flower bud formation until the entire flower bud matures, it must all be sunny weather.
Third, at noon on the day of flowering, there must be strong sun, and the temperature must not be too low.
Fourth, it must not be too dry -- the plant must have a certain amount of stored water, and the air humidity must not be too low either. Only when these four conditions are fully met can you see their flowers. However, as Frailea ages gradually, the plant body gradually becomes larger, and the ability to store water and nutrients gradually becomes stronger, flowering will also become easier and easier, and these conditions will slowly become less harsh.
Only a Frailea that has the ability to bring out every single flower can be considered truly "adult," and at that time, they can truly achieve continuous blooming!
Little tricks to encourage flowering：
First, the more sufficient the light, the naturally easier it is to bloom, so let it go bare!
Second, at the beginning of the flowering period (the flowering period of the genus Frailea in Wuhan is about June to September each year), keep it in a dry state for a long time, then choose a day with continuous sunny weather and suddenly increase water and fertilizer; this has the effect of shock-promoting flowering (of course, if you are unlucky and the weather suddenly changes after the shock begins, with one or two days of overcast rain, then instead of shocking out a flower, it will do the opposite and shock out a bunch of seed pods; after a large consumption of nutrients, you may have to wait for this bunch of seed pods to mature one by one for the entire flowering period, and you will not see a single flower).
Third, you can add phosphorus fertilizer in winter and before the flowering period, and at the same time appropriately use auxin at a suitable concentration before the flowering period; this has a certain effect of promoting flowering.
What to do if a Clivia doesn't bloom? Little tricks for growing Clivia to bloom
Clivia is elegant and grand, with thick, emerald-green leaves and large, brightly colored flowers. Keeping a pot, whether placed in the living room or on the balcony, looks very beautiful. But in the process of growing Clivia, you may encounter the situation where Clivia does not bloom, or it grows thin and small, the leaves do not grow large, and it does not produce side shoots either. What is going on?
In fact, in the process of growing Clivia, especially during the spring and autumn growing seasons, only when the potting soil is fertile, the nutrients are sufficient, and Clivia is frequently fertilized can it grow thick, oily-green leaves, produce many side shoots, and bloom abundantly. As long as it lacks fertilizer or the potting soil is poor, it will bloom very little, or even not bloom at all.
Little tricks for growing Clivia to bloom
1. Bone meal
Bone meal is a familiar fertilizer. It contains sufficient nitrogen fertilizer, phosphorus fertilizer and potassium fertilizer. In autumn, you can repot Clivia once and add some bone meal as a base fertilizer, and it can also be used as a top dressing. In this way, Clivia's growth will naturally speed up.
In fact, bone meal can be made at home by yourself. Just take some steak, pork ribs, etc. that have been eaten in the kitchen, put them in water and boil them until there is not much grease left, then put them in the sun to bake, and after drying, grind them into powder, ferment it a little, and it can be used as fertilizer for Clivia. In autumn, when repotting Clivia, use bone meal as the base fertilizer, and Clivia's root system will grow especially strong and well developed.
At the same time, bone meal can also be used directly as fertilizer. When using bone meal to fertilize Clivia, add a small amount of farmyard manure, that is, manure or plant ash, and the effect will be even better, allowing Clivia to grow especially well. Fertilize once a month, and the leaves will grow glossy and shiny, many side shoots will emerge, and flower stalks will also grow out.
2. Leaf mold
If you really cannot find bone meal, you can also use the same thing as a substitute, and it is also very easy to use, namely leaf mold dug up from under large trees in the suburbs, or pine needle soil. The darker the color, the looser and more fertile, the better.
This soil, used to grow Clivia, or spread as a layer on the surface of the potting soil, can make Clivia grow especially vigorously, with emerald-green leaves and large, brightly colored flowers.
The above are the secrets for Clivia flowering and care. No matter which kind of flowers or plants it is, when we grow them, we are looking forward to them blooming. If they do not bloom, then there is not much meaning in growing them. So if everyone wants to grow Clivia and make it bloom, these two points must be done well.