What is a dead-wood bonsai? A detailed introduction to its characteristics
As a styling form of tree bonsai, dead-wood bonsai can take the forms of dead-top style, dead-branch style and dead-trunk style (shari trunk) in practice. Below we will take a closer look at dead-wood bonsai.
1. Dead-top style
Dead-top style is also called withered-crown style. This kind of bonsai has lush branches and leaves, but the top of the trunk has already withered and become bare, just like a green pine standing tall on a high mountain, braving frost and snow, with the vigor of one who grows stronger with age. In ancient temples and monasteries, old pines and cypresses naturally form this shape. The Japanese call the dead-top style "Tenjin," and it is greatly favored by people. The styling procedure of the dead-top style is divided into four steps: pruning, wiring, debarking and carving-stripping. According to the number of plants, there are single-trunk, double-trunk and forest styles.
When making a dead-top style bonsai, the dead top must have a certain thickness. If the dead top is too thin, it is not only unattractive but also out of harmony with the branches and leaves below. When the tree grows to a certain thickness, cut off the treetop.
Characteristics of the dead-top style:
(1) Morphological features: two trees leaning on each other, with lush branches and leaves; although the crown top is dead, it still fights frost and snow and stands proudly.
(2) Key styling points: the trunk stands upright, the branch pads droop, carrying the sense of having been washed by wind and snow. The dead trunk of the tapering tip must be natural; use methods such as peeling and sharpening or cutting, breaking and tearing to process it into a naturally withered and decayed form. After the moisture in the xylem evaporates, apply lime-sulfur mixture to prevent rot. When dry it turns grayish white, which can increase natural beauty: though made by human hands, it looks as if formed by nature.
(3) Pot pairing: best paired with a shallow round pot.
(4) Points to note: the making of the dead top should be natural, avoiding traces of artificial work. Branch pads should not turn upward, otherwise the strength of the tree's momentum will be weakened.
2. Dead-branch style
Characteristics of the dead-branch style
(1) Morphological features: lush branches and leaves, with dancing tree shadows; a dead branch extends from the emerald canopy, expressing a mood of glory even in death.
(2) Key styling points: retain the main and secondary veins of the branch for debarking and processing. Rigid, straight branch forks are not suitable for making dead branches, so as to avoid losing beauty and appearing unnatural.
(3) Pot pairing: either a shallow oval pot or a rectangular pot can be used.
(4) Points to note: if a branch pad is carelessly maintained and withers and dies, or if a stump graft pad has dead branches, or if there are branch forks unsuitable for making branch pads, there is no need to cut them off in a hurry. According to the styling concept, consider repeatedly and make them into dead branches, turning decay into something magical.
3. Dead-trunk style (shari trunk)
Dead-trunk style is also called dead-peak style. Because some trees in the mountains and wilds, after long-term wind, sun and rain, plus repeated felling, gradually have their trunk portions become withered, decayed and mottled, exposing xylem pierced with holes and hollowed out, with bare roots like claws, resembling a jagged dead peak. But part of the trunk and branches can still produce green branches and leaves; vitality is nearly exhausted yet the spirit does not wither, quite conveying the delight of a withered tree meeting spring and returning to youth, giving people positive spiritual encouragement. The pot used for the dead-trunk style should be determined according to the specific form of the tree stump. But one point is common: in order to set off the ancient and peculiar posture of the dead trunk, the pot must not be too deep. A medium-depth or relatively shallow purple-clay pot is better. If it can be paired with a dedicated pot so that the tree and pot form one integrated whole, the artistic conception will be even more profound.
Characteristics of the dead-trunk style:
(1) Morphological features: a large area of the tree body is ossified and hardened, appearing grayish white; the direction of the lines follows the grain of the tree's water line, curving, twisting and extending obliquely. In the middle and tail portions the emerald canopy is like clouds, mutually enhancing the shari trunk, with dead and living reflecting each other, expressing a pure and refined spiritual realm.
(2) Key styling points: focus on the dead trunk of the stump itself and the direction of its grain, supplemented by technical processing and treatment of the water line. Generally, it is required that the water line (the band of bark that keeps the tree alive) be visible on the viewing side and continue to the roots. The water line should have curved variation and travel along the wood grain. The width of the water line should be determined according to the size and thickness of the tree, combined with the styling concept and visual aesthetics.
(3) Pot pairing: determined according to the form of the tree; generally best paired with a medium round pot.
(4) Points to note: the processing of the dead-trunk grain and the flow direction of the water line should be unified as one; absolutely avoid crosswise cutting. The water line should follow the grain of the trunk and take a detour, so that the lines can be smooth.
Bonsai: production methods for dead-trunk and dead-top style bonsai
Flower and Bonsai Network guide: what Flower and Bonsai Network shares with you today is an article on production methods for dead-trunk and dead-top style bonsai. Let's take a look together.
Dead-trunk style is also called dead-peak style. Because some trees in the mountains and wilds, after long-term wind, sun and rain, plus repeated felling, gradually have their trunk portions become withered, decayed and mottled, exposing xylem pierced with holes and hollowed out, with bare roots like claws, resembling a jagged dead peak. But part of the trunk and branches can still produce green branches and leaves; vitality is nearly exhausted yet the spirit does not wither, quite conveying the delight of a withered tree meeting spring and returning to youth, giving people positive spiritual encouragement.
The pot used for the dead-trunk style should be determined according to the specific form of the tree stump. But one point is common: in order to set off the ancient and peculiar posture of the dead trunk, the pot must not be too deep. A medium-depth or relatively shallow purple-clay pot is better. If it can be paired with a dedicated pot so that the tree and pot form one integrated whole, the artistic conception will be even more profound.
Dead-top style is also called withered-crown style. This kind of bonsai has lush branches and leaves, but the top of the trunk has already withered and become bare, just like a green pine standing tall on a high mountain, braving frost and snow, with the vigor of one who grows stronger with age. In ancient temples and monasteries, old pines and cypresses naturally form this shape. The Japanese call the dead-top style "Tenjin," and it is greatly favored by people. The styling procedure of the dead-top style is divided into four steps: pruning, wiring, debarking and carving-stripping. According to the number of plants, there are single-trunk, double-trunk and forest styles.
When making a dead-top style bonsai, the dead top must have a certain thickness. If the dead top is too thin, it is not only unattractive but also out of harmony with the branches and leaves below. When the tree grows to a certain thickness, cut off the treetop.
For one portion, according to the styling requirements, remove an appropriate length of bark from the tip, then use a small knife to sharpen the tip of the debarked treetop so that it naturally tapers from thick to thin, and scrape the debarked branch with a knife to expose the wood, then apply erythromycin eye ointment to prevent bacterial invasion and rot.
For dead-top style tree bonsai, whether single-plant, double-plant or forest style, it is best to use a medium-depth rectangular or oval pot. For dead-top style with more than two plants, primary and secondary should be clearly distinguished; if several trees are basically the same in height, thickness and form, such a bonsai styling is not attractive enough.
A brief discussion of cultivation techniques for dead-wood resprouting bonsai of Bauhinia
Bauhinia is a very good potted plant and also a fine timber tree; because it is difficult to grow into timber yet beautiful in appearance, people mostly use it as material for making bonsai or as a landscaping tree species. So how can you cultivate a Bauhinia bonsai with a creative and good shape? Below the editor will analyze it with everyone.
Dead-trunk style bonsai is made from tree parts such as roots and stems that are partly withered and decayed but still partly alive, allowing this withered and decayed material to grow new branches and leaves again in the bonsai and radiate new vitality. Through the image of old age, sickness and disability, it displays an artistic implication and spirit of having endured the vicissitudes of life, of distant time and of unyielding vitality. In bonsai technique, dead-wood resprouting is a relatively special method, but because it is limited by materials, such artworks are not common on the market; however, good dead-wood bonsai generally have relatively high artistic value, and some fine pieces are eagerly sought and purchased by people.
(1) Select material: select part or all of the stems, branches or root system of a Bauhinia tree, and keep or discard according to their potential to become blank material for later use;
(2) Styling: use methods such as bending, carving, hollowing and piercing on the Bauhinia blank material obtained in the previous step to create a Bauhinia shaped material with a certain ornamental shape, while retaining a small amount of bark;
(3) Dead-wood treatment: soak the Bauhinia shaped material obtained in step (2) in dead-wood liquid for 1-2 hours, then take it out to obtain dead-wood base material. The dead-wood liquid is made by stirring and mixing the following materials in the following proportions:
Starch 10-15 g
Vinegar 20 ml
Chrysanthemum juice 20-30 ml
Humus 5-15 g
Humic acid 10-20 g
Water 1000 ml
Iron powder 3-6 g;
(4) Transplant the Bauhinia dead-wood base material into a flower pot so that it resprouts and grows new branches and leaves to become a bonsai.
The styling work of step (1) must be completed within 24 hours, otherwise the resprouting survival rate of the transplanted base material will be greatly reduced.
In the styling work of step (2), the bark retained on each blank material should be continuous from bottom to top, and the area of retained bark should be no less than 5% of the total bark area of the entire blank material.
The dead-wood liquid in step (3) is best prepared and used on the same day, so as to avoid the liquid losing effectiveness.
The ratio of the dead-wood liquid per unit volume to the total surface area of the shaped material being treated is 1000 ml : 1-5 sq m. As the dead-wood liquid is used, the content of its active ingredients will gradually decrease; after soaking shaped material with a total surface area of about 5 sq m, the dead-wood liquid needs to be replaced with new liquid, otherwise the shaped material cannot be effectively turned into dead wood, affecting the technical effect of the dead-wood treatment.
The transplanting in step (4) is conventional cutting transplanting; it is only necessary to keep the roots facing downward and the tip facing upward. Absolutely do not place it upside down, otherwise the base material cannot resprout and bud.
The soil used in step (5) is loam, black soil, yellow soil or red soil, but does not include alkaline soils such as yellow mud soil.
The transplanting in step (6) is carried out in a natural environment; after transplanting, water once every 3-5 days until the base material grows new buds.
In step (7), control of budding on the base material: for parts of the base material surface where buds are needed, expose them to the air; for the remaining parts where buds are not needed, wrap them with materials such as plastic film. After new buds grow, remove the film. Thereafter, for new buds growing on surfaces covered by dead wood, use the method of bud rubbing to remove them, which can effectively control bud growth. Alternatively, apply petroleum jelly to the parts where buds are not needed, and let the new buds resprouting from the base material form new plants according to people's creative ideas. Generally, 15-25 days after transplanting, the base material can sprout new buds, and then form fresh green branches and leaves and a bonsai plant that will bloom and bear fruit.
Bauhinia is a relatively common landscaping tree species. In the past, people making bonsai from it used a destructive method: digging out from the forest some Bauhinia with peculiar shapes, roots and all, selecting the roots and part of the stems, and transplanting them into flower pots in time. This kind of bonsai is no different from the natural Bauhinia plants seen in the forest, cannot produce a sense of ancient vicissitude, and has no artistic spirituality; apart from adding some greenery to interiors and courtyards, it has no particularly distinct meaning. Therefore, its value is very low. On the other hand, this kind of Bauhinia bonsai has no batch production; it can only be made according to the shapes of natural plants encountered, and cannot form an industry. If one insists on artificially forming an industry, it is bound to destroy the natural ecosystem and may cause the Bauhinia tree species resources of a certain region to suffer a devastating blow.
In this bonsai cultivation technique, among selection tests of many tree species, the specific tree species Bauhinia was found as the blank material for making dead-wood resprouting bonsai. Repeated practice over many years has proved that at present only Bauhinia can maintain a high resprouting survival rate after dead-wood treatment, reaching above 99%; for the remaining tree species, after styling operations such as carving and piercing, the base material clearly shows signs of dying. After transplanting into flower pots, the survival rate is very low, mostly below 15%; large-scale development costs are high, and the loss outweighs the gain. In contrast, dead-wood Bauhinia not only has a very high resprouting survival rate, but its material is also convenient for styling operations; roots, stems and branches can all serve as blank material for dead-wood styling. Therefore, the utilization rate of Bauhinia trees as bonsai raw material is high, and the bonsai production cost is low. For some highly ornamental bonsai styling artworks, standardized batch production can be achieved, maximizing economic benefits.
According to the method of this invention, using the stems of wild Bauhinia as blank material, they can be cut into sections; the length of the sections and the way of cutting can be chosen and determined according to the specific state of the trunk and branch nodes and creative requirements. Next, artistic styling is carried out on the blank material; the styling methods are traditional techniques, such as removing part of the bark, then using techniques such as carving, bending, piercing and hollowing to make the blank material into forms with traces of mottling, damage, partial decay, insect damage, animal gnawing and bird pecking, so that it appears to have a long history and to have endured hardships. When carrying out such operations, it must be ensured that 5-15% of the bark of the blank material remains intact, that is, let a portion of the bark remain undamaged to maintain its function of transporting nutrients and water; otherwise it will truly die and lose the possibility of resprouting. The styling work on the same root or the same section of blank material is best completed within one day, so as to avoid excessive water loss causing loss of viability, especially in hot summer.
After styling, the shaped material is promptly put into dead-wood liquid for soaking. The soaking can be by complete immersion in the dead-wood liquid or by partial immersion, so that the liquid acts on all or part of the blank material. The soaking time is appropriately increased or decreased according to whether the blank material is old or young, generally 1-2 hours, with 2 hours mostly sufficient. After soaking, take it out. At this time, the surface color of the shaped material will gradually become black, brown-black, light black or iron-black, and the shaped material will look more like an ancient dead tree with vicissitude, distant time, hardship and unyielding resilience.
The blank material after dead-wood treatment is called dead-wood base material. The dead-wood base material must be immediately transplanted into a previously prepared flower pot and given routine management; in particular, water once every 3-5 days to keep the dead-wood base material moist, until the base material resprouts and grows new buds again. This time is generally 15-25 days. The resprouting survival rate is above 99%. Unless the styling operation is improper, or insufficient bark is retained or the retained bark does not meet requirements, it can all grow new buds again and then become a verdant Bauhinia plant.
Bauhinia dead-wood style bonsai has a unique appearance, and its market value is very high, because Bauhinia itself has very good ornamental value; as long as it is slightly designed into a creative bonsai, its market value is limitless. The above cultivation techniques for Bauhinia dead-wood resprouting bonsai can be learned by everyone.