How to grow bromeliads? Detailed explanation of protected cultivation techniques
As people's living standards improve, more and more people have a growing demand for flowers. Among them, bromeliads are also a relatively popular variety of flowers, so many flower growers have started cultivating bromeliads. So, how do you grow bromeliads
As people's living standards improve, more and more people have a growing demand for flowers. Among them, bromeliads are also a relatively popular variety of flowers, so many flower growers have started cultivating bromeliads. So, how do you grow bromeliads? Below, the editor of Huinong Network will explain to you the detailed protected cultivation techniques for bromeliads.
1. Cultivation
1. Temperature
The suitable temperature requirements for ornamental bromeliads are between 21~28°C during the day and around 18~21°C at night, with the maximum not higher than 35°C and the minimum not lower than 15°C.
2. Humidity
Bromeliads like a high-humidity environment, and the air humidity should be maintained at 75%~85%. If the humidity is below 50%, the leaves will curl inward and the leaf tips will appear scorched and withered. However, the humidity should not be too high either; if the humidity is too high, the plant's leaf cup will rot at the heart. In conditions of high temperature and high humidity, the greenhouse should be ventilated more. To increase humidity and ensure robust plant growth, the plants need to be sprayed on the leaves frequently. In spring and autumn, spray once in the morning and once in the afternoon; in winter, spray once at noon; in summer, spray multiple times according to the humidity conditions in the greenhouse.
3. Light
The suitable light intensity for bromeliads is 18000~20000 Lux. If the light is too strong, the leaf color will fade and spots will appear, and in severe cases the leaves will be scorched. If the light is too weak, the plants will become leggy. Summer light is relatively strong. On sunny days, around 8 a.m., carry out the first layer of shading with a 75% shade net, and when the temperature rises to 28~30°C, carry out the second layer of shading with a 50% shade net.
4. Fertilizer and water management
Bromeliads have relatively strict requirements for water quality, and generally deionized purified water is used. The EC value of the fertilizer solution should be controlled between 0.8~1.0, and the pH value between 5.5~6.5. Because the root system of bromeliads is relatively weak, the nutrients needed for growth are mainly absorbed from the base of the leaf cup, so it is essential to keep sufficient nutrient solution in the leaf cup for absorption. Summer and autumn are the peak growth seasons, and evaporation is also high, so water demand increases. Water the leaf cup once every 4~5 days, and water the medium once every about 10 days, keeping water in the leaf cup and the medium moist. In winter, water the leaf cup once every 1 week, and do not water the medium unless it is dry; if it is too wet, the roots are prone to rot.
For fertilizer, use P20:10:20 + magnesium sulfate and potassium nitrate + magnesium sulfate, two fertilizers used alternately. The method for preparing the fertilizer stock solution is: P20:10:20 59g/L + magnesium sulfate 8g/L; potassium nitrate 59g/L + magnesium sulfate 8g/L. The working solution is stock solution:water = 1:100. Apply fertilizer with irrigation water, using dilute fertilizer frequently. During the growth period, the EC value should be controlled between 0.8~1.0, and the pH value between 5.5~6.5. After flower forcing and entering the reproductive growth period, the EC value can be increased to 1.2.
2. Flower forcing
When bromeliads reach the 20~25 leaf stage, flower forcing can be carried out.
1. Preparation for flower forcing
Two weeks before flower forcing, stop applying any fertilizer and water only with clear water; when formally forcing flowers, pour out the water in the bromeliad leaf cup 1 day before flower forcing.
2. Flower forcing method
Use saturated acetylene aqueous solution to force flowers. First, connect the acetylene gas conduit to the water bucket, open the main pressure gauge, then open the secondary pressure gauge so that the secondary pressure gauge remains at 0.5Pa, then set the flow meter at 0.3m3/Pa, so that the water in the bucket can roll. According to the amount of water used, the aeration time can be adjusted. Generally, 50L of water is aerated for 30min to reach saturation, at which point the water will have a strong acetylene odor. It can then be used for irrigation, generally 250~300mL per plant, and the amount can also be determined according to plant size. During the irrigation process, maintain the aeration state, and require the container and watering pipe, etc. to be clean and sanitary.
Flower forcing is generally repeated 4 times, with an interval of 2 days each time. The flower forcing temperature should be controlled at 15~18°C. Flower forcing is best carried out before dawn, and within 1 hour after flower forcing it is best not to expose the plants to strong light, to avoid evaporation of acetylene gas. Within 1 week after flower forcing ends, minimize spraying water on the leaves; within 2 weeks, water only with clear water; from the 3rd week, begin applying fertilizer. For the 1st and 2nd applications, apply potassium nitrate 59g/L + magnesium sulfate 8g/L twice in succession. After 40~60 days of flower forcing, the leaves at the center of the leaf cup begin to turn red.
Bromeliad propagation methods, bromeliad division diagram
Bromeliad propagation methods, bromeliad division diagramBromeliad is a very good indoor decoration, strange and gorgeous, uniquely distinctive. Speaking of bromeliads, we think of the pineapple we usually eat, but the Bromeliaceae family has perennial herbaceous plants. In the bromeliad family, varieties that bloom but cannot bear fruit are called ornamental bromeliads. Today we introduce bromeliad propagation methods. So below let us start trying to understand this bromeliad.
I. Bromeliad propagation methods
Bromeliad propagation methods - cutting propagation
For cutting propagation, first cut off the small tubers growing from the tuber part of the mother plant for cuttings, or use the young shoots sprouting from the roots of old bromeliad plants for division. During the cutting process, remember to provide shade, keep warm, and keep moist. Because bromeliads are relatively short in plant type, when propagating young seedlings it is suggested not to use too large a flowerpot; a flowerpot with a diameter of 250px is enough. In the selected soil, leaf mold and plain sand soil should each account for half. When potting, it is best to place a layer of coal cinders or coarse sand at the bottom of the pot. Appropriate sunlight is required, and do not expose to blazing sun. When watering, never allow water to accumulate in the flowerpot. When the root system after cutting grows to 2~75px, it can be planted out.
Bromeliad propagation methods - seed propagation
Thoroughly rinse the bromeliad seeds with water to remove dust and debris on the seed surface. Bromeliads like slightly acidic media, and it is best to keep the pH value between 5.5~6.5. Spread the soil evenly in the flowerpot, about two-thirds full, then lay the seeds flat on the soil, and then sprinkle about two centimeters of soil over the seeds to cover them. Finally, it is basically watering and fertilizing, and note that the environment should be warm, humid, and ventilated. After about 4 weeks, seedlings can be seen emerging. However, because bromeliads grown from seed propagate slowly and grow weakly, they generally must be cultivated for 5~10 years before they can bloom.
II. Bromeliad cultivation methods
Ornamental bromeliads are extremely easy to care for. As long as you grasp their habit of liking high temperature, humidity, and semi-shade, they can be placed in a warm, bright room year-round. In winter they can receive full sun; in spring and autumn there should be light in the morning and evening; in summer avoid direct sunlight. With bright light, the leaf surface color is vivid. The overwintering temperature should preferably not be lower than 10°C; above 20°C is unfavorable for the plant's dormancy and will affect the next year's growth and flowering.
Soil
River sand mixed with fine tree fern fiber or ordinary commercially available potting soil is acceptable.
Water
Bromeliads do not need special care. In autumn and winter, water can even be replenished once every 7-10 days. When adding water, let the water accumulate in the central leaf tube. Observe how the water is absorbed. If the accumulated water exceeds one week, it should be poured out and replaced with fresh water to avoid breeding pathogens.
Sunlight
Generally bromeliads like sunlight, but strong light exposure is not allowed, otherwise the leaves will be damaged. They can grow well indoors. When the temperature is below 10°C, it is best to move them indoors.
Fertilizer
Their growth rate is not fast. It is best, after transplanting or planting out, to mix slow-release fertilizer into the medium, or spray a very dilute liquid fertilizer on the leaves or pour it into the leaf tube once a month.
III. Bromeliad flower language and symbolic meaning
Bromeliad flower language and symbolic meaning: perfection. Bromeliads go from sprouting, to growing, and then to splendid blooming. With undivided attention, like a walker without reins, even in a tiny patch of soil, they must penetrate to the essence. This belief in pursuing perfection has always accompanied bromeliads. Numerous small flowers cluster densely on the flower stem, forming a thick flower spike, and the bracts at the tip of the flower spike extend in a radial pattern. Each small flower is star-shaped. The flowers are yellow, pale green, pink, white, etc.
Bromeliad is a very beautiful indoor potted flower that is both ornamental for its flowers and its leaves. With its unique rosette plant type, bright spike-like inflorescence, and relatively long flowering period, it has gradually become the "darling" of the Lunar New Year flower market. Gift-giving etiquette: line a flower basket with thin paper, and place in bromeliad lilies as well as pineapple and other tropical fruits.
The above is the relevant introduction to bromeliad cultivation methods and precautions. Bromeliads are very suitable for indoor decoration. They like at least 3 hours or more of sufficient sunlight exposure each day, but they are also tolerant of semi-shade. In summer they like coolness and ventilation, and they can also slightly tolerate a dry climate
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Determined to build a popular science building about succulents, striving to collect and repost... updating common summer-growing types and winter-growing types
This post was last edited by Honey Pot on 2014-8-29 16:28The materials were collected and reposted by me from various places, hoping to be helpful to everyone
1. What are succulents --
Succulents are also called succulent plants or fleshy plants. In horticulture they are sometimes called succulent flowers, but the name succulents is the most commonly used. Succulents refer to a class of plants in which a certain part of the plant's vegetative organs, such as the stem, leaves, or roots (a few species have two parts at the same time), has developed parenchyma tissue for storing water, making them appear thick and juicy in appearance. Most of them grow in arid regions or regions with a dry period during the year, where for a long time each year the roots cannot absorb water, and they rely only on the water stored in their bodies to maintain life. Sometimes people like to call this type of plant desert plants or psammophytes, which is not very accurate. Succulents indeed include many that grow in desert regions, but not all grow in deserts, and deserts also grow many plants that are not succulents.
2. Classification of common succulents --
There are more than 10,000 species of succulents in the world. Among them, common succulents include Cactaceae, Aizoaceae, Euphorbiaceae, Crassulaceae, Liliaceae, Asclepiadaceae, Agavaceae, and Asteraceae. In addition, some species in Bromeliaceae, Commelinaceae, Apocynaceae, Portulacaceae, and Vitaceae are also commonly cultivated. In recent years, succulents in Fouquieriaceae, Didiereaceae, Cucurbitaceae, Moraceae, Moringaceae, and Dioscoreaceae have also been introduced, but they are still very rare at present.
3. Various terms related to succulents
[Leggy growth] means growing a long neck, looking like bean sprouts. The main causes are insufficient light and too much watering.
[Old stock] grown for many years, with old leaves falling off, leaving branches and trunks full of scars.
[Beheading] a method of propagation. Cut off the head of the succulent. Then use it for [stem cutting]. A propagation method, not suitable for all varieties.
[Leaf cutting] peel off the leaves of the succulent, place them facing up on the soil, and wait for them to take root and sprout. A propagation method, not suitable for all varieties.
[Stem cutting] insert the beheaded succulent into loose, low-water soil and wait for it to take root and sprout. A propagation method, not suitable for all varieties.
[Aerial roots] can take root without touching the soil, as long as conditions allow. Both [beheading] and [leaf cutting] can do this.
[Cristation] simply put, it is deformity, though some are very beautifully cristate. It is affected by external factors and grows into a clump or a strip beyond the state it should originally have.
[Translucency] excessive water or dampness causes the leaves and stems to rot, become transparent, and finally disappear.
[Common goods] relatively common varieties that are relatively cheap and easy to propagate.
[Outdoor growing] literally understood as: growing in the open air, which can also be called rough growing.
[Clustering] the state in which multiple pups grow on one mother plant and grow together. Many varieties cluster, a typical one being Sedum multiceps.
[Water cutoff] means stopping watering.
[Fading] losing the color it should originally have because of a poor cultivation environment.
[Molting] it seems only Lithops species molt. The butt blooms, the skin sheds a layer, and it grows a circle larger.
[Pot bursting] literal meaning, a full pot.
[Dormancy] depending on the variety, entering a dormant state in certain seasons, stopping growth or growing slowly.
[Top dressing] using beautiful medium to spread on the surface of the pot soil for decoration. It is recommended not to use too light a medium, to avoid splashing caused by watering and wind.
[Bare-root shipping] generally means without a pot. This term is often seen when shopping online.
[Enclosed growing] creating a greenhouse effect, adding a lid or covering with film.
[Drying roots] newly purchased succulents need to be potted after the roots dry, to avoid root rot. Succulents bought online basically all need to be dried a bit. Of course, some thoughtful shop owners will dry them before shipping.
[Variegation] a type of variation in succulent color. Basically XX variegation, anything with variegation is a good thing.
4. About buds [Lateral buds] as the name implies, lateral buds can be subdivided into the following types ↓
[Butt buds] lateral buds sprouting from the base of the plant, generally used to describe Haworthia, and relatively favored by enthusiasts.
[Head] the half with the growth point when beheading. Among Haworthia enthusiasts, a head produced by a good mother plant will be priced far higher than lateral buds from other positions.
[Beheading seedlings]: seedlings obtained by beheading, generally better in appearance than butt buds and cutting seedlings.
[Cutting seedlings]: as the name implies, cutting seedlings can be subdivided into the following types ↓
[Leaf-cutting seedlings]: young seedlings obtained by leaf cutting. Depending on the position of the leaf selected, the difference in seedling appearance is obvious -- not obvious in Crassulaceae, very obvious in Haworthia.
[Stem-cutting seedlings]: mainly obtained by cutting stems or allowing heads to root.
[Root-cutting seedlings]: it is said only Haworthia can succeed.
[Areole-cutting seedlings]: it is said only some cacti with areoles can succeed.
[Tissue-culture seedlings]: young seedlings obtained through plant tissue culture technology.
5. About plant sources [Wild-collected plants] plants collected from the wild. It is strongly not recommended that everyone buy them. No buying, no poaching.
[Wild species] wild varieties from their place of origin, including original species and natural hybrids.
[Original species] a type of plant that can give rise to other new biological types.
[Hybrid species] varieties produced by crossing original species, also called "crossbred species."
[Natural hybrid species] varieties produced by crossing original species under natural conditions.
[Artificial hybrid species] can be obtained by the same reasoning.
[Horticultural species] artificial hybrids with certain special ornamental uses.
[Seed-grown plants] plants developed from seeds and not grafted.
[Grafted plants] plants in a grafted state, generally cacti, occasionally Euphorbia.
[Landed plants] the state of a grafted plant in which the rootstock is cut off and only the scion is retained.
[Woody core roots] landed plants retain the woody core of the rootstock during the landing process, referring to roots sent out by the woody core.
[Own roots] in the broad sense, own-root plants include seed-grown plants. Generally, plants with the words own roots refer to those in which, when landed, the rootstock is completely removed and the root system is that of the scion.
Reposted from the internet
Note:
Rootstock: the plant that bears the scion during graft propagation.
Scion: in plant grafting operations, the buds, branches, and other meristematic tissues used for grafting onto the rootstock are called the scion.
6. Professional abbreviations
[Fish] abbreviation for the cactus genus Lophophora, generally used when speaking broadly of Lophophora, with subdivisions abbreviated as Yin, Cui, Wu, etc. --
[Ox] Gasteria armstrongii --
[Elephant] Haworthia maughanii --
[Bird] things in Aizoaceae whose names end with the character "bird," the most famous one does not have the character bird, and is Conophytum calculus --
[Crane] refers to the Retusa series under the hard-leaved Haworthia --
[Turtle] generally refers to Dioscorea elephantipes, and in a few cases refers to Ariocarpus retusus --
[Wild turtle] specifically refers to Ariocarpus retusus --
[Dragon] generally refers to Agave, in a few cases refers to Dioscorea elephantipes, and in extremely rare cases refers to Moringa
[Phoenix] refers to Astrophytum myriostigma
7. About soil and media. There are many kinds of soil suitable for succulents, roughly including: akadama soil, kanuma soil, hyuga soil, volcanic rock, pumice, humus soil, mountain soil, peat, perlite, pumice stone, vermiculite, ceramsite, coal cinders, and so on.
High-end media: akadama soil, kanuma soil, hyuga soil, volcanic rock, pumice, mountain soil, and so on. These soils generally cannot be dug up by you; you have to spend money to get them... Not absolute, though. Some people grow very well with cheap soil, and greenhouse propagation of common goods cannot use such good media either.
Budget-level media: humus soil, coal cinders, charcoal bits, plant ash, perlite, and so on. These are all simple and easy-to-obtain media. They can be bought at flower markets without spending much money, economical and practical, and the effect is not necessarily worse than professional succulent soil.
The medium itself is not the problem. The ratio of the medium combined with water and sunlight is the real key!! (*￣ω￣)
It is generally recommended that beginners buy special soil already mixed by the shop. Once you are good at it, you can try mixing your own. The ratio is a very profound issue. I do not understand it at all. Experts are welcome to share popular science.
The original poster's own suggestion: whether the container has holes or no holes, it is recommended to use pure granular soil. According to the TB shop's description -- it retains fertilizer, retains moisture, is breathable, and has sufficient multi-dimensional elements. Relatively, it can also reduce pests and diseases.
8. Containers. Pots can roughly be divided into three major categories [with drainage holes] [without drainage holes] [irregular pots]
[With drainage holes]
Ordinary flower pots generally have drainage holes. For succulents, drainage is very important. As long as you control the water, the succulents will all grow really well.
There are also many choices of pot materials, such as ceramic, terracotta, metal, plastic, and so on.
Ceramic pots are generally quite beautiful, and the surface is sealed with a layer of glaze, so the pot itself does not absorb water or breathe. Because they look good, they are also the most common.
Terracotta pots are also called international pots. The whole thing itself is a treasure that breathes and absorbs water. Personally, I think it is quite suitable for growing succulents, and also quite suitable for beginners. After watering, a terracotta pot changes color because it absorbs water, and when the water has mostly drained away, the pot returns to its original color. You can use this characteristic to control moisture. However, relatively speaking, moisture is lost quite quickly, so you need to water more frequently. It is also not as attractive as other crafted pots.
Small black (white) square pots, cheap... cheap... still cheap... just a few mao each, and they look good when arranged.
[Without drainage holes]
For glass containers, wooden boxes, iron buckets, and other pots without holes, you need to put a good layer of materials such as ceramic pellets or pumice at the bottom. It is recommended to use pure granular soil for containers without holes.
9. Tools section
[Tweezers] I think this is the most, most, most essential necessity for growing succulents. Once you use tweezers, it feels like divine help. As for other things, I feel they can all be optional.
[Watering can] Many succulents have powder on their surface. That powder exists only once in a lifetime, and once it is wiped off, it is gone, so you must be very careful with the powder when watering. When I am being lazy, I use a bulb blower instead of a watering can, sucking up water and spraying it at the roots.
[Spray bottle] Succulents without powder can all be sprayed, replacing watering to supplement moisture. Plant surfaces all have the function of absorbing and releasing moisture. There is one downside: when it dries, there will be water stains.
[Brush] After planting, there is often dust, sand, and other particulate dirt on top, which can be removed with a brush. Do not use it on plants with powder.
[Bulb blower] For places the brush cannot reach, use the blower; otherwise, you can also blow with your mouth. Pay attention to the force, and do not blow away the top dressing.
[Plant labels] To record variety names or record dates, and so on. You can just DIY them yourself using a backing board. 2 yuan can get you dozens of labels.
[Small shovel/pot shovel] When settling some small pots, the soil needs to be put in from the edges. Using a shovel saves your hands from getting dirty and also makes it less likely to dirty the plant or spill outside.
[Transfer pot] When repotting or settling plants, it can be used for temporary holding or to collect soil scattered during the process. Soil is very expensive, so do not spill it.
The main issue is hygiene, so you will not get nagged.
[Slow-release fertilizer/insecticide] This needs no explanation...
[Grow light] Use it to supplement light during continuous cloudy days.
10. Detailed explanation of the potting steps. Note: reposted. Personally, I think steps 2 and 3 are unnecessary.
1. No matter whether it was bought from a flower market, a greenhouse, or online, throw away all the soil from the original pot. (Online purchases are generally shipped bare-root.)
2. Wash the roots of the plant. Make sure that basically all the soil carried on the root system is rinsed off. This is because it very likely contains a large number of insect eggs and bacteria. Be gentle when washing. Root damage is unavoidable, but try to damage as few roots as possible. You can hold the root section in a basin of water and shake it back and forth. It is recommended not to turn on a faucet and rinse with very strong water, as this will break a large number of roots. Shake and soak repeatedly like this several times, until you can see the white main roots.
3. After cleaning the root system, if you feel it is necessary, do some root trimming. Cut off those diseased roots and dead roots that have turned black or even become empty shells. Also appropriately trim those lateral roots that are too long and heavily tangled, in order to encourage new fibrous roots to grow. This will make the whole root system look evenly distributed and neat. After root trimming, the newly regenerated root system will be strengthened, making the plant grow more robust. If you do not feel confident, you do not have to trim them either. It is fine, as long as you remove the dead roots and diseased roots.
4. At this point the root system will definitely be damaged, so dry the plant's root system. Note that this means natural air drying. Generally, it can be potted the same day (within a few hours).
6. Prepare the medium in advance. The methods for choosing a medium are described above, and everyone can refer to them.
7、
Choose the pot. Personally, I suggest that for Crassulaceae succulents, terracotta pots are the best match. For Haworthia, you can choose resin or plastic pots. If you are an "appearance above all" person, then you can choose ceramic pots, but they must have holes in the bottom. Do not consider things like ironware or woven rattan baskets. Rust and mold will drive you crazy when the time comes. It may not be obvious at first, but after a while you will know. It is basically sending succulents into the tiger's mouth. Do not let your imagination run wild and then end up swallowing the bitter fruit yourself!
8. Put the medium into the pot. The principle is: large particles at the bottom layer, small particles at the upper layer, to help drainage.
9. Plant the succulent and cover with soil until the root position is completely covered. You can use akadama, kanuma, and the like for top dressing. It is not recommended to use vermiculite or various kinds of gravel. Spray a layer of water on the soil surface, just enough to make the soil slightly damp. A little humidity is enough, to help new roots sprout. The saying is "plant in moist soil, keep it dry," not "plant in wet soil, keep it dry"! A one-character difference still makes a difference.
10. Right after potting, place the plant in a place with bright, indirect light. It should not be exposed to direct harsh sunlight. Keep it ventilated and cool, and do not water. Next comes the recovery stage.
11. After one week, resume watering, resume full sun, and return to normal care. During the recovery period, if you feel the potted soil is too dry, you can spray a thin mist of water or fungicide on the soil surface every day, only to increase humidity. Be careful to stop at the right point! After the recovery period, you must decisively give water, otherwise the plant will continue to wilt, become weak, and drop leaves due to lack of water, and the mortality rate may increase.
Actually, these plans of mine are all the most conservative plans. The toughness of many succulent varieties is beyond what you can imagine. After keeping them for a long time, you will find that these methods are actually too cumbersome, and only the more delicate varieties need such a complicated process. Hehe, but if you have not been in contact with succulents for long and still do not have a full grasp of their habits, then it is still better to proceed according to the conservative plan. If you are already an experienced grower, then just do everything as usual. One last wordy sentence: this potting method can only be carried out during the growing season, not during the dormant period. If you want to force it anyway, you can, but at the same time you must be prepared to be responsible for the consequences of your actions...
11. Plant condition after potting
Generally, after potting a succulent, you will find that it is either limp or constantly dropping leaves. Many flower lovers get extremely anxious and look everywhere for remedies. At this time, you need to calmly analyze. (In fact, most results are situation 2 below, worrying over nothing.)
Situation 1: You did not completely follow my potting method above. Therefore, check whether the root system or plant became infected by bacteria after potting. Or perhaps the plant already had disease and damage when it was purchased, or the potted soil was not thoroughly disinfected. After ruling out damage and pests, it is bacterial infection. Too-high moisture in the medium is the most common factor causing bacterial infection, so do not water thoroughly in advance during the recovery stage. This is because at this time the root system has not recovered its ability to absorb nutrients and moisture at all. At this time, too much moisture in the medium will only cause bacteria to multiply in large numbers and increase the chance of root rot.
Situation 2: There is absolutely no need to worry, because this is a normal phenomenon.
When a plant has just been potted, the root system will inevitably be damaged, so recovery is actually root recovery. When the roots have not fully recovered and cannot normally absorb nutrients and moisture, the plant will rely on consuming nutrients stored in the outer old leaves to maintain normal physiological functions and the growth of new tissue. Therefore, the condition shown is limp stems and leaves, and the outer old leaves gradually shrivel and fall off.
At this time, you do not need to worry at all about what health problem the plant has. After the root system recovers, the old leaves will stop shriveling and falling, and then the plant's growing point will begin to show activity and start growing. But old leaf fall is something that happens to healthy plants too; it is just that plants whose roots have not recovered will show old leaves falling very quickly. At this time, the old leaves are sacrificing themselves for the greater good. The way to judge whether the root system has resumed growth is that you can pinch the stem with your hand and gently lift the plant to feel whether the plant has a slight "grip on the soil." This can help determine whether the roots have taken hold. But do not use too much force and pull the plant out.
Old leaves that fall off after their nutrients are exhausted have basically turned into a piece of kraft paper. After the old leaves become soft and dry, you do not need to remove them in advance. After the nutrients are completely consumed, they will naturally fall off. If you remove them early before their nutrients are completely consumed, it is equivalent to speeding up the fall of another leaf. They all fall in order.
Then, for plants that have passed the recovery stage, those that should be watered should return to a normal watering frequency. Do not keep tiptoeing around and not daring to give water, otherwise even if the root system recovers healthily, it cannot absorb and provide sufficient nutrients and moisture for the plant. The plant will still remain wilted, weak, or even dropping leaves, and will never achieve the best ornamental effect.
Source: Hao Duo Rou
12. About watering amount
Liliaceae (Liliaceae) Haworthia (Haworthia),
Winter-growing type, grows as usual in winter, dormant in summer. Common ones include Haworthia fasciata, Haworthia 'Jincheng', Haworthia cooperi, Haworthia truncata, Haworthia maughanii, Haworthia cymbiformis, Haworthia cooperi var. pilifera, Haworthia retusa, and so on.
Month_________Watering amount
January_______Very tiny amount or stop watering
February_______ Tiny amount
March_______ Large amount
April_______ Large amount
May_______ Small amount
June_______ Tiny amount
July_______ Very tiny amount or stop watering
August_______ Very tiny amount or stop watering
September_______ Tiny amount
October_______ Large amount
November______Small amount
December______ Tiny amount
Succulent watering amount reference table (2)
Crassulaceae (Crassulaceae) Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe), summer-growing type, grows as usual in summer, dormant in winter. Common ones include
Kalanchoe luciae, Kalanchoe 'Edo Purple', Kalanchoe tomentosa, Kalanchoe beharensis, Kalanchoe rhombopilosa, and so on.
Month ______ Watering amount
January _____Very tiny amount or stop watering
February _____Small amount
March _____Large amount
April _____Large amount
May _____Large amount
June _____Small amount
July _____Very tiny amount or stop watering
August _____Tiny amount
September _____Small amount
October _____Large amount
November____Large amount
December____Small amount
Agavaceae (Agavaceae)
Agave (Agave), summer-growing type, grows as usual in summer, dormant in winter. Common ones include Agave americana, Agave potatorum, Agave stricta, Agave victoriae-reginae, and so on.
Sansevieria (Sansevieria), summer-growing type, grows as usual in summer, dormant in winter. Common ones include Sansevieria trifasciata, Sansevieria trifasciata 'Hahnii', Sansevieria trifasciata 'Golden Hahnii', and so on.
Month ______ Watering amount
January _____Very tiny amount or stop watering
February _____Very tiny amount or stop watering
March _____Small amount
April _____Small amount
May _____Large amount
June _____Large amount
July _____Large amount
August _____Large amount
September _____Large amount
October _____Small amount
November____Small amount
December____Tiny amount
Succulent watering amount reference table (3)
Aizoaceae (Aizoaceae)
Faucaria (Faucaria), spring-autumn-growing type. Common ones include Faucaria felina, Faucaria tuberculosa, Faucaria bosscheana, Faucaria candida, Faucaria 'Daxuexi', and so on.
Month ______ Watering amount
January _____Tiny amount
February _____Small amount
March _____Small amount
April _____Large amount
May _____Large amount
June _____Small amount
July _____Tiny amount
August _____Tiny amount
September _____Tiny amount
October _____Large amount
November____Large amount
December____Tiny amount
13. Common succulent (summer-growing type) and (winter-growing type) varieties, being updated
| Reposted from Tahua for everyone to see: (1) Common summer-growing type (referring to varieties that do not go dormant in summer and grow vigorously) succulents 1. Cactaceae: most Cactaceae plants belong to the summer-growing type 2. Euphorbiaceae: most Euphorbiaceae plants belong to the summer-growing type (I have Euphorbia 'Himekirin', Euphorbia aeruginosa, Euphorbia decaryi) 3. Kalanchoe: common ones include Kalanchoe luciae, Kalanchoe rhombopilosa, Kalanchoe porphyrocalyx, Kalanchoe 'Jindie', Kalanchoe 'Black Tomentosa', Kalanchoe 'White Tomentosa', Kalanchoe 'Edo Purple', Kalanchoe tomentosa, Kalanchoe beharensis, and so on 4. Crassula: common ones include Crassula 'Huazan', Crassula sarmentosa, Crassula falcata, Crassula ovata, Crassula capitella 'Campfire', Crassula perforata, Crassula 'Sunset' (Luori zhi Yan), and so on 5. Orostachys: common ones include Orostachys malacophylla, Orostachys 'Phoenix', Orostachys 'Fuji', Orostachys furusei, Orostachys iwarenge, Orostachys japonica 'Wolf Claw', and so on 6. Agave: common ones include Agave americana, Agave potatorum, Agave potatorum 'Kichiokan', Agave stricta, Agave victoriae-reginae, and so on 7. Caralluma: common ones include Caralluma hesperidum, Caralluma stalagmifera, Caralluma europaea, Caralluma 'Ashiro', Caralluma acutangula, and so on 8. Ceropegia: common ones include Ceropegia woodii, Ceropegia linearis, and so on. 9. Beaucarnea: Beaucarnea recurvata 10. Sansevieria: Sansevieria trifasciata 11. Aloe: Aloe arborescens, Aloe nobilis, and so on. 12. Sempervivum: Sempervivum 'Baibui', Sempervivum arachnoideum, and so on. 13. Echeveria: Echeveria laui, Black Prince, Echeveria chihuahuaensis, Echeveria 'Puli-lindsayana', Echeveria shaviana, Echeveria 'Red Prince', Echeveria 'Daeho' (Dahejin), White Peony (summer-spring-autumn growing type), etc. 14. Adenium: Desert Rose, Adenium somalense 15. Pachypodium: Pachypodium brevicaule, Pachypodium densiflorum, Pachypodium inopinatum, Pachypodium geayi, etc. 16. Plumeria: Yellow Frangipani 17. Alluaudia: Alluaudia procera, Alluaudia ascendens, Alluaudia dumosa 18. Euphorbia: Euphorbia tirucalli, Euphorbia ingens, Euphorbia lactea, etc. 19. Cissus: Cissus quadrangularis 20. Anacampseros: Anacampseros rufescens, Anacampseros telephiastrum 'Sunrise', Anacampseros albissima, etc. 21. Portulacaria: Portulacaria afra, Portulacaria afra 'Medio-picta', Portulacaria afra 'Foliis variegatus', etc. 22. Trichodiadema: Trichodiadema barbatum, Trichodiadema intonsum, Trichodiadema bulbosum, etc. 23. Stapelia: Stapelia gigantea, Stapelia variegata, Stapelia grandiflora, Stapelia hirsuta, etc. 24. Delosperma: Delosperma echinatum, Delosperma tradescantioides, Delosperma sutherlandii 25. Fenestraria: Fenestraria rhopalophylla, Fenestraria aurantiaca 26. Frithia: Frithia pulchra, Frithia humilis 27. Dorstenia: Dorstenia gigas, Dorstenia foetida 28. Commelina: Commelina communis, etc. Blue Senecio, Pachyphytum 'Amethystinum', Pachyphytum 'Moon Silver', and Echeveria 'Red Baby' are all plants with no obvious dormancy period. White Peony is a hybrid of the Crassulaceae family, belonging to the summer-growing type, dormant in winter. 29. Glottiphyllum: Glottiphyllum oligocarpum 30. A hybrid of Graptopetalum and Echeveria: White Peony 31. Jatropha: Jatropha podagrica 32. Rhipsalis: Rhipsalis cereuscula (Qingliu) White-flowered Lampranthus (Aizoaceae, Lampranthus genus), Blue Senecio, Pachyphytum 'Amethystinum', Pachyphytum 'Moon Silver', Echeveria 'Red Baby', Crassula 'Pagoda Village' (Crassula genus), Phoenix... are all plants with no obvious dormancy period. (III) Common "winter-growing" and "spring-autumn growing" (i.e. dormant in summer, growing in winter, spring and autumn) succulents 1. Haworthia: Common ones include Haworthia fasciata, Haworthia cymbiformis, Haworthia cooperi, Haworthia retusa, Haworthia 'Golden City', Haworthia viscosa, Haworthia truncata, Haworthia maughanii, etc. 2. Bowiea: Common ones include Bowiea volubilis (mine is Bowiea volubilis), etc. 3. Gasteria: Common ones include Gasteria 'Tiger's Scroll', Gasteria 'Little Treasure', Gasteria armstrongii, Gasteria 'Teru-hime', Gasteria 'Dinosaur', Gasteria 'Glazed Tile', etc. 4. Crassula: Common ones include Crassula 'Ba', Crassula 'Jade Broom', Crassula 'Tower of Jewels' (Green Tower), Crassula 'Du Xing', Crassula 'Lü Qianhui', Crassula 'Star Maiden', Crassula 'Dragon Palace City', Crassula 'Li Que', etc. 5. Sedum (spring-autumn growing type): Common ones include Sedum 'Mingyue', Sedum 'Guanyin Lotus', Sedum morganianum, Sedum pachyphyllum, Sedum 'Yachiyo', Sedum rubrotinctum, Sedum makinoi, etc. 6. Aeonium (spring-autumn growing type): Aeonium 'Sunburst', Aeonium 'Variegatum', Aeonium 'Zwartkop', Aeonium 'Mingjing', Aeonium 'Yanrihui', Aeonium 'Xiyang', Aeonium 'Zwartkop', etc. 7. Lithops: Common ones include Lithops, Lithops pseudotruncatella, Lithops aucampiae, Lithops optica, Lithops 'Mrs. Li', etc. 8. Conophytum: Conophytum bilobum, Conophytum 'Jiguang', Conophytum 'Hikarugenji', Conophytum 'Angel' 9. Pleiospilos (spring-autumn growing type): Common ones include Pleiospilos nelii, Pleiospilos simulans, Pleiospilos bolusii, etc. 10. Glottiphyllum (spring-autumn growing type): Common ones include Glottiphyllum 'Anlü', Glottiphyllum 'Saotome', Glottiphyllum 'Zhehe', etc. 11. Adromischus (spring-autumn growing type): Adromischus cristatus, Adromischus 'Shenxiangqu', Adromischus 'Gosho-nishiki', etc. 12. Cotyledon (spring-autumn growing type): Cotyledon tomentosa, Cotyledon 'Kyokuhikari', Cotyledon orbiculata 'Fukko', Cotyledon undulata, etc. 13. Cotyledon: Cotyledon 'Afanggong', Cotyledon 'Qifengjin', Cotyledon 'Sand Coral' 14. Graptopetalum (spring-autumn growing type): Graptopetalum 'Meililian', Graptopetalum paraguayense, Graptopetalum 'Bieluzhu' 15. Anacampseros: Anacampseros 'Silver Silkworm', Anacampseros 'Snow Chang'e', Anacampseros 'Renjin', Anacampseros 'Quncan' 16. Faucaria: Faucaria 'Qunbo', Faucaria 'Sihaibo', Faucaria 'Huangbo', Faucaria 'Nubo', Faucaria 'Xuebo', Faucaria 'Daxuexibo' 17. Bergeranthus: Bergeranthus 18. Rhombophyllum: Rhombophyllum dolabriforme, etc. 19. Frithia: Frithia pulchra 20. Titanopsis: Titanopsis calcarea, Titanopsis 'Tiannüguan', Titanopsis 'Tiannüzan' 21. Dinteranthus: Dinteranthus vanzylii, Dinteranthus 'Nanmanyu' 22. Trichodiadema (spring-autumn growing type): Trichodiadema 'Xiaosongbo', Trichodiadema 'Xibao', Trichodiadema 'Zihuanguangxing', etc. 23. Glottiphyllum (spring-autumn growing type): Glottiphyllum 'Baolü', etc. Those not marked as (spring-autumn growing type) are all winter-growing. Ruschia, Purple Saber, String of Pearls are spring-autumn growing. 24. Machairophyllum (spring-autumn-winter growing type): Machairophyllum 25. Portulacaria: Portulacaria afra 'Jinqianmu' (suitable for temperatures of 20-32°C), should be a short-summer-dormancy type. 26. Asteraceae Senecio (spring-autumn-winter growing type): Senecio 'Qibaoshu', Senecio rowleyanus, Senecio 'Xuanyue', Senecio 'Purple Saber' 27. Sempervivum: Sempervivum 'Purple Peony' (Sempervivum 'Dahong Juanjuan'), Sempervivum arachnoideum (winter-growing type, grows in spring and autumn) 28. Echeveria: Echeveria 'Luna', Echeveria 'Zizhenzhu', Echeveria 'Houye Xuhe', Echeveria 'Yudie' 29. Haworthia: Haworthia 'Jingzhihua Nishiki' (short summer dormancy) 30. Aizoaceae Ruschia: Ruschia 31. Aizoaceae, Trichodiadema: Trichodiadema 'Qiusong' (Xiaosonglü) Additionally: Blue Senecio, Pachyphytum 'Amethystinum', and Pachyphytum 'Moon Silver' are all plants with no obvious dormancy period. |