How to Make a Yunnan Pine Bonsai? Cultivation, Styling and Care Techniques
I think everyone knows about bonsai. The hardest part of bonsai cultivation is not whether it can survive, but how to create the bonsai's shape. From what the editor knows, bonsai with excellent shapes on the market are all very expensive. So how do we create bonsai shapes? Below, the editor will talk about the cultivation, shaping and care management techniques for Yunnan pine bonsai.
Yunnan pine, commonly known as flying pine or long-haired pine, is an evergreen large tree of the genus Pinus in the family Pinaceae, Latin name: PinusYunnaensiS. The bark is brownish-gray or reddish-brown, cracking into irregular scaly blocks or turtle-shell patterns, rarely flaking off in accumulated layers. Winter buds are reddish-brown, needles in bundles of 3, with leaf sheaths, needle length 10-35 cm, soft. Cones are cone-shaped ovoid, seeds have wings, facilitating wind pollination.
I. Distribution
Yunnan pine is mostly distributed in eastern Xizang, western and southwestern Sichuan, Yunnan, western and southwestern Guizhou, and northern Guangxi. It is the main native tree species of the southwestern region. It is mostly distributed vertically in areas at altitudes of 1000-3200 m, and is a strongly light-demanding deep-rooted tree species. It has strong adaptability, tolerates winter and spring drought climates and poor soils, and can grow in acidic red soils, red-yellow or slightly calcareous soils. It grows best in fertile, moist, acidic sandy loam with good drainage on north-facing or semi-shaded slopes.
II. Domestication and Cultivation
The documented cultivation history of Yunnan pine dates back to 1922, when there was already a common cultivation habit among the people of Lijiang. However, it remained at the stage of suppressing nature to create twisted forms of "shaping." True modern bonsai shaping was undoubtedly influenced and inspired by the '99 World Expo, benefited from the development of the modern internet, and is inseparable from the efforts of the Yunnan Bonsai and Viewing Stone Association.
The growth of Yunnan pine is inevitably linked to geographic location and altitude. Taking an altitude of 2000 m as an example, from early January to mid-January, the pine buds begin to swell, and as time passes, growth accelerates, with mid-February to mid-April being the fastest growth period. January to May happens to be Yunnan's dry and rain-scarce season, yet under such environmental conditions Yunnan pine enters its vigorous growth period, showing how remarkable its drought tolerance is.
The root system of Yunnan pine consists of a vertical taproot and multi-branched lateral roots, forming a radish shape. Its taproot can reach soil layers below 2.5 m, while lateral roots extend horizontally. During the root growth of Yunnan pine, mycorrhizae also grow alongside. Mycorrhizae are symbionts formed by soil fungi and the young absorbing roots of Yunnan pine, parasitic on the pine's root system. The massive fungal bodies enhance the root system's ability to absorb soil nutrients and water, promoting root growth and drought resistance of Yunnan pine.
Domestication and cultivation of Yunnan pine should be carried out during the dormant period, that is, from October to January of the following year. Plant with a soil ball in the ground for 1 year. After that, repot into a flat-rimmed training pot, using acidic sandy soil to facilitate drainage. Let it settle for two years, aiming to develop roots and force buds. Based on the principle of apical dominance, carry out bud-forcing or branch-loss retraction work.
III. Pest and Disease Control
Yunnan pine has many insect pests, including willow caterpillar, Simao pine caterpillar, red spider mite, scale insects, etc. Diseases are mainly powdery mildew and sooty mold. Based on mature and safe experience, spray omethoate plus thiophanate or carbendazim once a month. The dosage is 2 caps of omethoate per spray bottle of water, with carbendazim as appropriate. Lime sulfur mixture or imidacloprid can also be used. Some reference books extensively introduce experience with trichlorfon and dichlorvos for controlling Yunnan pine pests and diseases, but my personal lesson is that these two pesticides should be avoided.
IV. Two Varieties
It is generally believed that Yunnan pine has 2 varieties: one is the fine-leaf Yunnan pine, and the other is the ground pine.
V. Styling Methods
When planting Yunnan pine in a training pot, choose a pot with a flat bottom and moderate depth. After settling for 2 years, the root development and bud-forcing training period is complete. During this time, promote full development, grow roots radiating in all directions, and carry out branch-loss retraction work. There is a folk saying: dry conditions promote roots, wet conditions promote leaves. Therefore, reasonable and effective water control is key. Styling methods include bending with trunk breaking, bending with groove cutting, and bending without trunk breaking. Regardless of the method used, the first priority is to follow the "four-branch method" theory from Chinese painting principles: emphasize momentum, energy, and posture. To achieve this effect, one must: the tree must first have its trunk set, and with the trunk established, branches are added to form a lush forest. Translated into modern Chinese: to make a good bonsai, you must first bend the main trunk to a reasonable position before working on the branches. Only in this way can you achieve perfection. Conversely, if the trunk remains unchanged, any changes to the branches are meaningless.
It's not the editor making things up; good-looking bonsai really aren't cheap. If any of you are interested in bonsai cultivation, you can talk about the Yunnan pine bonsai cultivation, shaping and care management techniques the editor has shared.
Goji Berry Bonsai Making and Care
(1) Botanical KnowledgeBelongs to the Solanaceae family, Lycium genus. Deciduous shrub, clump-forming, branches slender and arching downward, often with thorns. Simple leaves alternate, rhombic-ovate or ovate-lanceolate. Flowers purple, corymbose inflorescence, corolla funnel-shaped. Berries ovoid or long elliptic, dark red or orange-red when ripe.
Goji berry is produced in Liaoning, Hebei, Shandong, Ningxia, Shaanxi, Henan, Hubei, Anhui, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Fujian, Hunan, Sichuan, Yunnan and other provinces and regions. It can be seen everywhere in mountain wilderness, village roadsides, field ridges, and earthen wall bases, with a very wide distribution.
Light-loving, slightly shade-tolerant, drought-tolerant, cold-tolerant, not demanding on soil, tolerant of poor soil, can even grow in stone crevices; adaptable to neutral soil, calcareous soil, and saline-alkali soil. It is an indicator plant for calcareous soil, with very strong suckering ability.
(2) Material Collection and Propagation Measures
1. Artificial propagation:
Can be propagated by sowing, cuttings, layering, division, etc. For sowing, harvest ripe fruits in November, soak in water for 1-2 days, after softening, rub and wash to obtain seeds, dry and store. Sow in March-April of the following year, in drills or beds, cover with soil about 1-1.5 cm, water thoroughly, and seedlings will emerge after 10 days. After emergence, thin once, and general management is sufficient. Transplant seedlings in the following spring.
For cutting propagation, use one-year-old healthy branches as cuttings before spring budding, or use current-year softwood cuttings during the plum rain season. Cutting length 12-15 cm, inserted at an angle in the seedbed, water frequently, keep soil moist, survival rate can reach over 95%.
Division and transplanting is mostly done in early to mid-March to April. Dig up clump-forming plants, cut off most branches, divide and plant, water immediately, and keep soil moist frequently. They root very easily and can bloom and set fruit in the same year.
2. Collection from the wild:
Around the time of Awakening of Insects, when goji berry has just entered the bud-breaking stage before leafing out, is the most suitable time for digging. In mountain wilderness or at the foot of old courtyard walls, thick and vigorous old stumps can be found. After digging them out, they can be directly potted according to the desired shape. Those in good condition can be planted in a viewing position; those with poor root systems should be mounded with soil to help maintain moisture. If conditions permit, they can also be grown in the open ground to develop material. Once the root system is well developed and branches are thick and strong, they can be transplanted into pots. Proper root exposure can be processed into excellent bonsai with gnarled old roots and drooping branches.(3) Potting Process
1. Pot selection: Goji berry is suitable for slightly deep glazed ceramic pots, or purple clay pots. The shape depends on the tree form. Cascade style is suitable for tall cylindrical pots; generally, curved-trunk style and exposed-root style mostly use medium-deep rectangular, round, or oval pots.
2. Soil: Goji berry is not demanding on soil, and well-drained sandy loam is suitable. For potting, use leaf mold or garden soil mixed with sandy soil.
3. Planting: Spring is most suitable; other seasons are slightly less ideal. Before planting, do a shaping and pruning, with smooth cut surfaces, and shorten overly long roots. Press the soil firmly, not too hard or with air gaps. No base fertilizer is needed at the bottom of the pot.
4. Post-planting care: Place the potted goji berry in a wind-sheltered area with diffused light, mist frequently to maintain moisture, reducing after budding.
(4) Styling Techniques
1. Processing: The main branches of goji berry can be appropriately wired and pruned. Large branches should be wired and pruned in winter; small branches can be wired in summer and autumn. New branches can be wired at any time with suitable iron, lead, copper or other metal wire. Goji berry wood is relatively brittle; be gentle when working, do not use excessive force.
2. Tree form: For making old-stump goji berry bonsai, curved-trunk style or cascade style is generally suitable, with small branches wired into a drooping shape. Exposed-root styling can be made into bridge style. There are also other styles such as figurative, exposed-root, multi-trunk, and eccentric styles, but those with big heads and small tails, or straight and flat ones, are the most uninteresting. In summary, shape according to the tree, apply skills according to the material, and repeatedly refine; do not rush.(5) Care and Management
1. Placement: Goji berry should be placed in a sunny location; if placed in shade, it will not flower or fruit well. Avoid direct sun in summer. It is cold-tolerant in winter and can overwinter outdoors above -10°C.
2. Watering: Normally water by the principle of "dry-wet alternation," following the rule of "don't water until dry, water thoroughly when you do." During the flowering and fruiting period, pay attention to moderate watering, preventing both excessive dryness and excessive wetness.
3. Fertilizing: Apply thin fertilizer frequently. In early summer and early autumn, combined with leaf picking, apply one slightly stronger fertilization each time to promote new leaves and flower buds. Fertilize appropriately before budding and after fruiting to make fruits larger and plants stronger. Never apply fertilizer too concentrated or during the flowering period.
4. Pruning: Carry out major pruning and shaping every winter and spring. At ordinary times, remove diseased and dense branches at any time to maintain a certain tree shape. Remove suckers promptly.
5. Repotting: Do this every 1-2 years, preferably in early spring. When repotting, remove half of the old soil, replace with loose, humus-rich growing medium, and apply a small amount of base fertilizer. Cut off dead roots and some overly long old roots. Repotting and soil replacement is very important. If not repotted for many years, the soil becomes compacted and drainage poor, which will seriously affect tree vigor.
6. Pest and disease control: The main diseases of goji berry are powdery mildew and black fruit disease, which can be controlled with 0.3-0.5 Baumé lime sulfur mixture. In the early stage of disease, carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, mancozeb, and triadimefon and other fungicides can be used alternately for control. The main pests are aphids, psyllids, eriophyid mites and others that eat leaves, which can be controlled by spraying 90% crystalline trichlorfon solution, 50% phoxim emulsifiable concentrate, 40% omethoate, fenpropathrin and other new insecticides and acaricides. The key is to master the timing and concentration.
(6) Ornamental Value
Goji berry was one of the "Eighteen Scholars" of bonsai in ancient times, and is also a well-known traditional Chinese medicine for nourishing the liver and kidneys, and improving eyesight. Goji berry stump bonsai has an elegant posture, drooping branches, purple flowers, and in autumn red fruits cover the branches, giving excellent ornamental effect. If leaf picking is done once in early summer, it can produce fresh green new leaves for better viewing. Pick leaves once more in early autumn, so that flower buds and leaf buds emerge simultaneously. In this way, in late autumn you can enjoy the ornamental effect of red fruits and new leaves set off against each other.Cleverly Making Goji Berry Bonsai
Goji berry is a semi-evergreen shrub with arching, vigorous branches; roots like swimming snakes, gnarled and full of variety; in autumn and winter, laden with red fruits, it is known as "snow-pressed coral" and is excellent material for making bonsai. The specific method for goji berry bonsai is as follows:
Digging stumps: In early April, when goji berry just begins to sprout, select stumps with good shape, first shorten long branches, cut off messy branches, dig carefully, extract the complete roots, immediately put into plastic bags, tie the opening to prevent moisture evaporation.
Soil and pot: Choose a flower pot with both diameter and height of 20 cm, with loose sandy loam being best. Before planting, first prune the roots to a size suitable for potting, dip in mud slurry, then place in the pot. After planting, water thoroughly, leave for 2-3 days, and when the soil is slightly dry, proceed with styling.
Styling: Using goji berry's characteristics of strong sprouting ability and fast branch growth, create umbrella shape, 2-tier, 3-tier and other forms. Umbrella shape, 2-tier, and 3-tier have 1, 2, and 3 branches respectively. After pruning, each tier is spaced 15 cm apart, and branches 4 are fixed in suitable positions with wire.
Management
(1) Moisture retention: Mist frequently to keep branches moist.
(2) Bud removal: When budding in mid-April, remove buds promptly. Keep only the buds at the top and around the sides of each branch, and remove all the rest.
(3) Pruning: In late April, when the retained young buds grow to about 10 cm, carry out pruning.
(4) Top dressing: Starting in late April, apply nitrogen fertilizer, using 0.2% urea aqueous solution, watering once every 10 days. By the end of July, when all shapes have formed, stop nitrogen fertilizer and switch to applying 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution once every 10 days.
Flowering and fruit set: Flower buds form in August, gradually opening small purple flowers. Fruit sets in September, and fruit color gradually turns red in October. Move indoors before frost, and the green leaves will remain year-round, with red and green contrasting, especially beautiful.Goji Berry Bonsai Cultivation Techniques
Goji berry is a deciduous shrub of the genus Lycium in the Solanaceae family. It likes warm, humid, and sunny environments, and tolerates cold, drought, and poor soil. Potted goji berry should normally be kept outdoors in a sunny place for care; even in midsummer, do not shade it. Besides winter dormancy, goji berry also goes dormant during high summer temperatures. At this time, plant growth stalls, most leaves drop, so watering should be restricted and fertilizing stopped.
When the dormant period is about to end, prune and shape once, cutting off overly dense, overly long branches, crossing branches, overlapping branches, and weak branches, and remove remaining old leaves to enhance internal ventilation and light penetration, promote new branch and leaf growth, and make the branches and leaves naturally well-spaced. After new leaves grow out, apply a liquid fertilizer mainly of phosphorus and potassium every 7 to 10 days, and water by the principle of "water thoroughly when dry."
After the fruit colors, stop fertilizing and reduce watering to weaken the plant's metabolic activity and extend the fruit-viewing period. Goji berry can bloom and fruit twice a year in summer and autumn. The fruits set from May-June flowering in summer are sparse, small, and pale, so the flower buds can be removed to concentrate nutrients for more fruit set in autumn. Because of its strong sprouting ability, pay attention to pinching, tipping, and bud removal during the peak growing season to control growth and maintain a beautiful tree shape.
Before winter, shape the plant once, so that after leaf drop and fruit drop it presents a vigorous, gnarled winter tree form that can also be appreciated in winter. In winter, cool conditions are required. It can be placed outdoors in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot or in a cold room to overwinter. Keep the soil from freezing and it will overwinter safely. If the temperature is too high, it will cause the plant to sprout early, which is instead detrimental to growth the following year. Keep the soil with appropriate moisture and avoid dry freezing, otherwise the plant will die.
Spring: After temperatures rise in spring, goji berry sprouts earlier than other plants. If it is a newly planted goji berry, be sure to select the right branches and keep the right bud points. Cut surfaces heal poorly, so leave a little extra length. Goji berry produces many suckers; remove them early. After Qingming, as soon as buds emerge, use a sharp knife to cut them off from the base to avoid affecting nutrient distribution and losing shape. Try to select buds in appropriate positions; if none are available, use wire binding methods. Remove excess inward-facing branches, low leaf branches, and control overly vigorous branches.
Summer: Growth is vigorous in summer. While promptly controlling pests, also promptly pinch the tops to lay the foundation for a good autumn fruit harvest. Goji berry has the characteristic of fruiting twice. Depending on the growing environment, summer fruit may be more or less; personally, I think you can leave none or only a small amount. Observe frequently, and wire early, preferably before the branches harden. Branch length is generally kept within 20 cm. During Major Heat, new branches lignify, leaves yellow, and the plant enters dormancy. At this time, all leaves can be removed and a concentrated pruning carried out.
Autumn: After End of Heat, the weather turns cool, and goji berry begins to sprout autumn buds, with autumn flower buds appearing simultaneously. Place the goji berry in a well-ventilated environment with strong light. Remove suckers, pinch tops reasonably, and maintain fruit uniformity. During Mid-Autumn Festival and National Day, goji berry has green leaves and red fruits, especially pleasing to the eye. If you want to extend the viewing period, place the goji berry in a relatively cool and shaded place.
Winter: After Start of Winter, goji berry leaves gradually fall, and the fruits slowly shrivel. Although called winter pruning, it does not necessarily have to be done after autumn; it can be done from after Spring Festival to before budding. For each branch group, keep a reasonable density and direction; for each small branch, keep about five to ten buds. Remove weak and diseased branches, shape according to style, and apply flexibly. I still don't fully understand the nutrient consumption from not removing fruits, but not picking the fruits does not affect the fruiting rate the following year. For overwintering, an environment of 1 to 10°C is most suitable. Note: goji berry wood is very brittle; be extremely careful when bending!
Frequently spray the fruits with warm water to prevent fruit shrinkage and delay falling. Do not prune, to avoid "branch dieback." Carry out pruning and shaping once before spring budding. Repot once every one or two years in spring. The potting soil should be fertile, loose, well-drained sandy soil, and calcium superphosphate and other phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be added as base fertilizer. Newly planted specimens should be kept in a place without direct sunlight for about 15 days, then normal management can begin. Goji berry is commonly propagated by sowing, cuttings, layering, and division, all of which root easily. Adopt a management model of small amounts of water and frequent watering to prevent flood irrigation from lowering soil temperature and affecting root growth.
In the goji berry cultivation process, the key technical points include watering, weeding, loosening soil, fertilizing, and pruning, as well as knowledge on how to control goji berry black fruit disease and damage from golden flower beetles.
To sum up, growing goji berry well comes down to just a few points: reasonable watering, alternating dry and wet; thin fertilizer applied frequently to strengthen tree vigor; proper pruning and timely removal of suckers; frequent observation and removal of pests and diseases; ventilation and light, and reasonable placement.How to Make Goji Berry Bonsai Bear More Fruit
Goji berry stumps can be made into various forms of bonsai according to the maker's concept. However, their branches are relatively long, resembling vine-like growth, and short branches rarely bear fruit. Thus, apart from the weeping-branch style bonsai, other forms of bonsai find it difficult to present a scene of abundant fruit on ideal branch pads.
Goji berry has two growth periods and two dormant periods in a year. The dormant periods are the severe cold of winter and the hot dog days of summer. The winter dormant period is longer, about four months, and the dog days dormant period is shorter, about one month. Thus the growth periods are divided into the first-half-year growth period and the second-half-year growth period. The first-half-year growth period is mainly vegetative growth, only growing branches and leaves without flowering or fruiting; the second-half-year growth period is mainly reproductive growth, flowering and fruiting while growing branches and leaves. Based on this characteristic, during the first half year of growth I give plenty of water and fertilizer to let it grow more branches and leaves, without pruning, so it stores more nutrients. During the short dormant period in dog days, I prune and shape it. During the second-half-year growth period, through techniques such as pinching tips, pinching branches, and needling, I make it branch more, age branches early, and flower more. In this way, you can enjoy a goji berry bonsai with dripping red fruits.
The specific method is as follows:
In winter, goji berry bonsai should overwinter outdoors. In especially cold places, insulation protection can be applied to the pot portion of the bonsai. Prune when leaf buds break in early spring, then place in a well-ventilated, sunny place for care.
When new branches and leaves grow out, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer mainly of nitrogen once a week. During this growth process, do not prune branches and leaves; let them grow freely to make branches thick and strong and store more nutrients in the stump. Of course, during this time, branches can be wired according to styling needs. In the hot and dry dog days, it will again enter brief dormancy. During this dormancy, keep the potting soil on the drier side, do not fertilize, and after letting it rest for about one month, carry out a pruning. After new branches and leaves grow out, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer mainly of phosphorus and potassium once a week. On the day after fertilizing, water more; at other times, restrict water. When new branches grow to 2-3 cm long, pinch the branches once or twice daily according to the intended direction of the branches in the design. Pinch gently, first bending slightly, then gradually increasing the bend. This can age the branches and promote flower bud differentiation. While pinching branches, you can also pinch tips as required. If an individual branch grows faster than required by the design, use a small needle to prick one or two times between two leaves on the growing section of the branch, deep to the center of the branch stem. This can slow branch growth and shorten internodes. If growth is still too fast, use a needle to make a vertical scratch below the leaf petiole along the branch, not too deep. This is actually the ring-barking technique in fruit tree cultivation.
After such management, by Mid-Autumn you can enjoy a pot of goji berry bonsai laden with red fruits. After winter begins, place it in a bright cold room, and the red fruits can remain until after New Year's Day. To have abundant red fruits every year, you should also replace with nutrient soil every year, in early spring. When changing soil, add some bone meal and de-alkalized lime powder to increase calcium, because goji berry likes soil with high calcium content.
Making Bonsai from Cultivated and Wild Goji Berry
Old roots of cultivated goji berry can of course be used to make bonsai. Most cultivated tree species show traces of artificial manipulation, and goji berry is certainly no exception. Very few rare specimen materials may die before being discovered. If you are dedicated enough to grow from a young plant, what is needed is time and patience, and most people cannot persist. If goji berry is grown freely, it does not actually grow too slowly, but it produces many suckers, requiring more effort in management. Letting it grow freely mostly results in straight, uninteresting forms, while artificial bending appears clumsy.
For making goji berry bonsai, natural wild charm is better. You can find subtle, ingenious, and elegant shapes that are not the single forms created by human-designed wiring. Because natural growth is slow, thick old goji berry stumps are relatively rare, and they rarely form hollows or large stone inclusions. The main focus is on root spread, thickness, curvature, and charm. Choosing an old stump you are satisfied with will also shorten the time to achieve a finished landscape. Natural resources are also relatively limited and constrained; this is the contradiction, and one must choose and persist.Cultivating Exposed Roots for Goji Berry Bonsai
Goji berry has strong sprouting ability and adaptability, likes low temperatures and is not afraid of severe cold; it sprouts early, drops leaves late, and fruits do not fall, giving a long viewing period; each year it produces new leaves twice in spring and autumn, blooms twice, and sets fruit twice. Moreover, the leaves are small and dense, the flowers are small and abundant, and the fruits are numerous and brilliantly red. Its fruit is also a good tonic for strengthening the body. Therefore, it is a very popular material for small bonsai. However, thick trunks of goji berry are hard to obtain, so roots are often used in place of trunks to make bonsai. But its roots are mostly single, rarely branching. This makes it difficult to create small, perfect goji berry bonsai with exposed dangling roots and claws. In recent years, in pursuit of more perfect exposed root claws, the author has made some cultivation attempts and initially achieved relatively ideal results. The specific method is:
In spring, or in the latter part of the second dog days (a few days before Start of Autumn), that is, in the south, when the summer dormant period of goji berry caused by hot weather, powdery mildew, and pests is about to pass, carry out necessary pruning on goji berry stumps collected from the wild, keep good branches, use a sharp knife to clean the wound surfaces where roots are needed, and disinfect them, then carry out cuttings. One method is to root in sand first, then transplant after rooting and survival to continue root development. The other is to root directly in the ground. Because goji berry root-in-place-of-trunk cuttings mostly root at the cut surface, and not many roots form, often two or three main roots just keep growing. To make it produce more roots and increase ornamental value, the author adopted the double-cutting method. That is: after the first cutting survives, first let it grow vigorously in the ground for one year. Before budding the second year, dig it out and cut off the new roots, keeping only 1 to 1.5 cm, trim the cut surfaces with a sharp knife, and at the same time shave off the original cut surface portion that has healed but produced no new roots (giving it another chance to root), then carry out a second cutting, and place a small amount of plant ash at its base. In this way, the surviving old goji berry stump will produce many more roots at both the new wound surface and the new root cut surfaces than in the first cutting. After cultivating it in the ground for two years, it can be dug out and potted to make a relatively perfect goji berry bonsai.
To make the new roots gnarled and curled for a better effect, the author also used a guiding method to cultivate root claws, which likewise achieved very good results. The method is: first dig a pit 20 cm x 20 cm x 30 cm and fill it with river cobbles or brick rubble, with a mixed layer of stones and sand 15 to 20 cm, then fill 2 cm of coarse sand on top. Then place the prepared goji berry stump into the pit, cover with sand or loess, and water thoroughly. After the water seeps down, mound more soil to prevent the old stump from losing too much water and dying. When the new roots of the goji berry stump rooted in this way encounter hard objects such as river cobbles, they will turn and extend along the sand-filled gaps. The sand gaps between the hard objects guide them to grow into gnarled root claws. After two years, digging them out yields relatively ideal gnarled-root goji berry stump material.
Inverted Planting Method for Goji Berry Trees
Inverted planting means burying branches in soil, exposing roots outside, growing roots on branches and buds on roots.
Select goji berry plants more than two years old, and air-layer three or four top branches at suitable positions to root. After rooting, immediately cut off the upper branch sections, cut off all branches that were not layered, then dig out the plant, wash off the soil, and immediately carry out inverted planting. Prune the fine roots, appropriately bind and shape the large roots, cover the root portion with a plastic film bag to preserve root moisture, and remove the bag after budding. In late autumn, remove the binding palm fiber, and a beautiful goji berry bonsai is complete. In subsequent years, gradually raise the roots, forming chicken claws below and dragon claws above, with green leaves and red fruits, simple and elegant.Simple and Elegant Root-in-Place-of-Trunk Bonsai
Although plants such as goji berry and winter jasmine have many branches, they are slender and not thick, and have no obvious main trunk, while their roots are gnarled and varied, antique and peculiar. In addition, the roots of some miscellaneous tree stumps such as Vitex negundo and Adina rubella are simple and peculiar, while the trunks are straight and lacking in posture. When making bonsai from these plants, the "root in place of trunk" method can be used, raising their roots from the soil to replace the trunk.
The difference between root-in-place-of-trunk bonsai and exposed-root bonsai is: exposed-root bonsai retains the original trunk while raising roots, making them dangling and claw-like, with the root form unchanged, serving only as part of the ornamental body; while in root-in-place-of-trunk bonsai, the trunk is completely replaced by roots, and the ornamental form of the roots no longer exists, appearing instead in the form of a trunk.
For root-in-place-of-trunk bonsai, choose stumps whose roots have trunk form. Requirements for branches are not too strict. Planting time can vary according to tree species, generally in winter and spring, with the highest survival rate before spring budding. Before planting, prune and shape the stump material, cut off unneeded branches, appropriately shorten overly long branches, but retain relatively thick branches for future styling needs, and prune the roots, then plant in a clay pot to develop material. Because goji berry roots are thick at the top and thin at the bottom, raising the roots would violate the natural rule of trees being thick below and thin above, so it can be planted upside down, which also roots easily, though growth is weaker.
Stumps should be planted deep, preferably with the root portion entirely buried in soil. If the flower pot is not deep enough, roll felt into a tube and place it into the pot, then fill with soil to increase the height of the potting soil. When planting, press the soil firmly and water thoroughly. In cold weather, cover with a transparent plastic bag for cold protection and insulation. Place newly planted specimens in a wind-sheltered, sunny place for care, keeping the potting soil moist but not waterlogged. After they are established, remove the plastic bag. When the plant grows vigorously, apply some decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer. Branches can be allowed to grow freely to manufacture more nutrients through leaf photosynthesis, making the stump grow vigorously and the root system well developed. After leaf drop in winter, cut off excess branches on winter jasmine, Vitex negundo and other stumps, and shorten overly long branches. For goji berry, however, wait until it is about to bud in spring before pruning, otherwise it will cause branch dieback (that is, the pruned branches wither and die). During care, gradually remove part of the potting soil to prepare for future root raising.
Root raising for root-in-place-of-trunk bonsai should be carried out gradually and in stages, not rushed, to avoid exposing too many fine roots and causing plant death. The styling can be made into various forms of bonsai according to the specific form of the roots. In the first year after moving the finished bonsai into a fine pot, use less fertile soil to grow it, so it can adapt to the new environment and ensure survival. When repotting in the following spring, use more fertile soil. After that, normal management can proceed according to the different habits of the tree species.
How to Make a Buddhist Pine Bonsai
Buddhist pine is a plant species of very high value. It is an evergreen tree of the genus Podocarpus in the family Podocarpaceae, with a broad ovoid crown and linear-lanceolate leaves. It has the vigorous root system peculiar to conifers and evergreen leaves year-round. Its branches are soft and flexible, very suitable for making bonsai for viewing. Let's take a look at how to make a Buddhist pine bonsai!
Buddhist Pine Growth Habits
Buddhist pine likes warm and humid climates, has weak cold tolerance and strong shade tolerance, likes well-drained moist sandy loam, has strong adaptability to soil, and can even survive in saline-alkali soil. It has strong resistance to various polluting gases such as sulfur dioxide, hydrogen sulfide, and nitrogen oxides, and strong resistance to pests and diseases. In China, it is produced in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Fujian, Anhui, Jiangxi, Hunan, Sichuan, Yunnan, Guizhou, Guangxi, Guangdong and other places. It is cultivated in courtyards as an ornamental tree, and wild trees are very few.
Buddhist Pine Bonsai Propagation
1. Sowing: Seed propagation of Buddhist pine can be carried out in August, usually in an open seedbed, sown as soon as collected, covered with rice straw, kept shaded, and the substrate kept moist. In winter, cover with plastic film to prevent freezing.
2. Cuttings: Cutting propagation of Buddhist pine can be carried out in spring and autumn. Spring cuttings in mid-March, selecting one-year-old thick dormant branches as cuttings. Autumn cuttings in July-August, selecting semi-lignified green branches as cuttings. Cuttings should all have a heel. Keep shaded. Transplanting in March is most suitable.
Buddhist Pine Potting and Styling
1. Potting: Buddhist pine is usually potted before spring budding. The potting soil should be loose, well-drained, slightly acidic sandy loam. Because Buddhist pine has a simple and elegant posture, purple clay pots or glazed ceramic pots are suitable, and the pot shape depends on the tree form.
2. Styling: Buddhist pine styling is mostly carried out during the dormant period, mainly by wiring, supplemented by pruning. Because Buddhist pine branches are soft and easy to wire, and can also be pruned, the forms are diverse. Common forms include curved-trunk style, slanting-trunk style, reclining-cloud style, cascade style, and exposed-root style, etc. Branches and leaves can be pruned into flat pads or bun shapes.
Buddhist Pine Bonsai Care
1. Location: In summer, Buddhist pine should be placed in a warm, humid, well-ventilated place; in winter, it should be placed indoors above 5°C, but the temperature should not be too high, to avoid affecting its dormancy. Household potted Buddhist pine should be kept outdoors in a ventilated place year-round and should not be kept indoors for long periods, otherwise the leaves will yellow and drop, leading to death. In high summer temperatures, avoid exposure to strong sun and place it in a semi-shaded place for care.
2. Watering: Buddhist pine likes moist soil. During the growing season, water frequently to keep the potting soil moist, but the pot must not become waterlogged. In summer, frequently spray water on the leaves or ground. Water thoroughly and sufficiently to keep the leaf color bright. In autumn and winter, moisture can be appropriately reduced.
3. Fertilizing: During the spring and autumn growing seasons, Buddhist pine only needs 1-2 applications of nitrogen-based top dressing; excessive phosphorus and potassium fertilizer is unnecessary. Already formed Buddhist pine should not be fertilized too much. Usually during the growing season, apply decomposed dilute liquid fertilizer once a month, and stop fertilizing after autumn begins.
4. Pruning: Buddhist pine should be pruned frequently to maintain tree shape. When flowering, it is best to remove flower buds promptly to avoid nutrient consumption. For already styled bonsai, pay attention to tipping and pruning to prevent excessive branch and leaf growth and maintain the original posture. Pruning and tipping work is best carried out during the spring and autumn growing periods.
5. Repotting: Buddhist pine is usually repotted once every 2-3 years, generally in March-April.
6. Pests: Buddhist pine is mainly harmed by leaf spot disease and anthracnose, which can be sprayed with 50% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 500 times dilution. Pests include scale insects, red spider mites, and bagworms, which can be killed by spraying 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution.