A Detailed Guide to Plant Grafting Methods and Hormone Application Techniques
The grafting process differs to some extent for every plant. Today, the editor of Huinong Network would like to talk with you about the five major categories of plant grafting methods and the types and properties of plant hormones.
1. Grafting methods (divided into 5 categories)
(1) Root grafting (divided into 3 types)
Taproot grafting. Cut off the root crown of the main taproot of the rootstock, then at the junction of the cortex and xylem at the edge of the cut, chisel open a depth of 4 cm with a hacksaw blade. Take a scion about 10 cm long, cut it into a wedge shape, insert it into the opening, then wrap it well with plastic film, and it is done.
Lateral root grafting. For larger rootstocks, the rootstock trunk need not be disturbed; simply dig out the tips of the large lateral roots, cut them off at a suitably thick point, then whittle the scion well, graft it onto them, and afterwards cover with soil and set it upright, and it is done. As many graftable lateral roots as there are, that many plants can be grafted.
Root sucker grafting. For rootstocks that have root suckers, one plant can be grafted onto each root sucker using the branch grafting method.
(2) Branch grafting (divided into 4 types)
High grafting (trunk grafting). Use a hacksaw to cut off the original tree (rootstock) branch trunk as the rootstock stub, at a height level with the trunk, then graft scions 15 cm long onto the cortex on one side, two sides, or four sides of the rootstock stub.
Low grafting (short grafting). For small rootstocks, cut them off at 10 cm above the ground, then whittle the base end of a scion about 10 cm long into a wedge shape or a horse-ear shape, and graft it into the cortex at the edge of the rootstock's cut.
Bark grafting. Use a sharp knife to make a ""-shaped (inverted V-shaped) cut in the bark of the rootstock, and use the knife tip to loosen the cortex on both sides, then graft the prepared scion into it so that the bark and wood of the two face each other, wrap it well, and it is done.
On-branch grafting. Perform branch grafting on each branch of a large rootstock; the operations are all the same as the branch grafting described above.
(3) Bud grafting (divided into 4 types)
Square bud grafting (inlay bud grafting). Cut off the rootstock at 30 cm above the ground, and on a smooth surface of the rootstock stub, cut away a square piece of cortex measuring 2 sq cm, then from the scion tree select a healthy bud, and with the bud as the center cut a square bud piece measuring 2 sq cm, insert it into the trace of the square cortex removed on the rootstock, tie it well with plastic film, and it is done.
Plate bud grafting. First hold the scion upside down, and with a small sharp knife start the cut 3 cm below the base of the bud, pressing firmly toward the breast along the xylem to cut a bud plate; when the cut has passed 1 cm beyond the bud base, then draw the knife back and cut off from 0.5 cm above the bud base; catch the bud plate with your left hand, place it in clean water, then at 10 cm above the ground on the rootstock, choose a smooth spot and slice open the cortex, attach the bud plate, and wrap it well. After it survives, then cut off the rootstock.
T-shaped bud grafting. On the rootstock, choose a smooth spot, first make a horizontal cut about 3 cm long and reaching deep to the xylem, then from its midpoint make a vertical cut, with length and depth similar to the horizontal cut, so that the two cuts form a "" (T) shape; use the knife tip to spread open the cortex on both sides of the T into the shape of an overcoat collar, then cut a bud plate from the scion and attach it into it, wrap it well, and it is done.
Inverted T-shaped bud grafting. The cut on the rootstock is in the shape of an inverted T, and the grafting method is all the same as the T-shaped grafting method.
(4) Splice grafting (tongue grafting)
Cut the seedling at 10 cm above the ground into a horse-ear-shaped cut, then cut the lower end of the scion into the same horse-ear shape, then fit the two horse-ear shapes together, and wrap them well.
(5) Approach grafting (inarching)
All kinds of herbaceous and woody plants can be grafted by this method. The procedure is: first transplant the plants to be approach-grafted together in one place, and after they survive, choose a place where their trunks or branches can be joined to each other, use a knife to shave off half the bark from each, join them at the cambium, and wrap them well; a hundred grafts will give a hundred successes. After the graft has taken, choose the one with the larger base trunk and keep it as the main trunk, and for the rest cut the trunk and keep the crown, concentrating them onto one main trunk to form a single plant with many flowers and many types.
2. Types and properties of hormones
During the process of plant growth and development, the formation of plant organs and physiological activities require some trace substances with regulatory effects; such substances are called plant hormones. The naturally occurring plant hormones in plants have been found to fall into 5 major categories: namely auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, abscisic acid, and ethylene. In addition to the natural hormones produced within plants, people have simulated the structures of natural plant hormones and artificially synthesized many synthetic compounds with the effects of natural plant hormones, called plant growth regulating substances. These synthetic plant hormones act by being externally imposed on plants.
(1) Indolebutyric acid (IBA)
Indolebutyric acid (IBA) is a rooting agent with relatively good effects and widespread application. It is not easily destroyed by the enzyme system that oxidizes indoleacetic acid, and its transport performance is poor; therefore, it is easily retained in the treated site, can effectively promote cell division of the cambium, and raise the rooting rate.
(2) Naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA)
Compared with indolebutyric acid, naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA) is slightly toxic, and too high a concentration easily harms plants. If the ammonium salt of naphthaleneacetic acid is used instead of naphthaleneacetic acid, it will be much safer; when applied, as long as the concentration is appropriate, the effect is similar to indolebutyric acid, and the cost is low. Therefore, the ammonium salt of naphthaleneacetic acid is also widely used to promote rooting of cuttings.
(3) Indoleacetic acid (IAA)
In practical application, the effect of indoleacetic acid (IAA) is inferior to that of indolebutyric acid (IBA) and naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA). This is because IAA is very unstable within plants, is quickly decomposed in non-sterilized solutions, and can be destroyed by strong light; therefore, those mainly applied in production are indolebutyric acid and naphthaleneacetic acid.
(4) ABT rooting powder
ABT rooting powder was successfully researched by the Forestry Research Institute of the Chinese Academy of Forestry. ABT rooting powder is a promoter for plant cuttings, possessing the advantages of supplementing exogenous auxins and promoting endogenous auxins. It passed appraisal in 1983, and in 1984 won the Science and Technology Achievement Award of the Ministry of Forestry. Practice has proved that ABT rooting powder can be widely used in the cutting propagation of many forest trees, fruit trees, and ornamental flowers, and it has especially specific effects in promoting rooting for extremely difficult-to-root species such as Chinese juniper, dragon juniper, Cuibai juniper, deodar cedar, larch, as well as hibiscus, crape myrtle, Aglaia odorata, and kiwifruit. ABT rooting powder is not only used for cutting propagation, but is also suitable for keeping transplanted seedlings alive. It roots quickly and abundantly, has good effects, is safe and simple, and has been widely applied in most provinces and regions across the country, achieving good economic benefits.
3. Methods of using hormones
The methods of using indolebutyric acid and naphthaleneacetic acid include two types: liquid soaking and powder treatment:
(1) Liquid soaking method
Prepare the agent as an aqueous solution. For cuttings that root easily, the general concentration is 0.005 per mille-0.02 per mille; for those that are more difficult to root, a liquid at a concentration of 0.1 per mille-0.2 per mille must be used. When using, soak the base of the cut segment in the solution, and at room temperature place it in a dark place to avoid massive evaporation of water from the branches. The soaking time is related to the concentration of the agent: if the concentration is high, the soaking time is short; if the concentration is low, the soaking time is long. For example, for Camellia leaf cut segments, in a 0.1 per mille solution they must be soaked for 1-2 h, and in a 0.005 per mille solution they must be soaked for 24 h.
(2) Powder treatment. First dissolve the agent in 95% alcohol, then stir the prepared alcohol solution into talcum powder, and heat appropriately so that all the alcohol evaporates, and it becomes a powder. When using, dip the water-soaked branch cut segments once in the powder, and they can then be inserted into the seedbed. The concentration of the agent used is generally 10 times higher than the concentration used for solution soaking. For example, for sweet potato, the effective concentration for powder use is 5 per mille, while the concentration for solution use is 0.5 per mille soaked for 12 h. The effects of the two treatments are the same, and the relative difference in the amount of agent used is not great.
(3) Preparation of ABT rooting powder solution. Use a non-metal container to dissolve 1 g of rooting powder in 500 g of alcohol (95%), then add 500 g of distilled water or cooled boiled water, thus preparing a stock solution at a concentration of 0.5 per mille, and store it in a cool, dark place. When using, it needs to be prepared into a solution diluted 10 times or diluted 20 times; soaking the base of branches or the roots of seedlings then achieves the effect of rooting or promoting root development. For large branch cuttings, soak for 4-6 h, with a soaking depth of about 10 cm. For 1-year-old branches, soak for 0.5-1 h, with a soaking depth of about 2 cm. 1 g of ABT rooting powder solution can treat 3000-4000 cuttings. One may also try the low-concentration quick-dip method to treat rice and vegetable seedlings to promote rapid rooting, so that after transplanting the seedlings emerge uniformly and grow vigorously, achieving early maturity and increased yield. As long as ABT rooting powder is used correctly, good cuttings and a good cutting period are selected, and post-cutting management techniques are appropriate, the rooting rate can reach 90%-100%, and the excellent traits of the original variety can be maintained.
The above is all the content on plant grafting, cutting propagation and hormone application. Farmers and friends are welcome to come to Huinong Network to learn!
A Brief Discussion of the Root Germination Principles of Succulents
A Brief Discussion of the Root Germination Principles of Succulents1. Suitable air humidity. Air humidity does not refer to soil moisture. When the humidity is relatively high, for example reaching 99 percent saturated air humidity, plants can even germinate roots in the air without needing to contact a soil medium. Many people fail on humidity, and the reason is not insufficient air humidity (in a general balcony environment, it can reach 80 percent during the plum rain season, and is generally around 55 percent at ordinary times, and may be even drier in the north), so plants in closed greenhouse conditions are very easy to propagate successfully by cuttings. Many people fall into another misunderstanding, namely high soil humidity. Soil humidity actually does not need to be very high, because at that time the roots do not absorb water, or there are even no roots at all; the soil is kept at a certain level because it provides high humidity for the air attached to the plant.
2. Suitable hormone levels. We often appropriately dry the plant in the early stage: one reason is to heal the wound, and the other is to let the plant appropriately shrivel. When the plant shrivels, it loses water, but the hormone concentration within its body is thereby raised; root germination requires hormone levels. Some plants have low hormone levels and need supplementary naphthaleneacetic acid rooting powder; for example, for Lophophora cuttings, appropriately applying rooting powder will improve the effect. Other plants have very high hormone levels and root very easily, such as the triangular stem; if you apply rooting powder, it will not germinate, because an excessive amount of naphthaleneacetic acid has an inhibitory effect.
3. Appropriate light. We all know that light promotes the flow of plant body fluids and transpiration, but as mentioned earlier regarding hormone levels, when light intensity is relatively high, the plant's hormones will flow to the top of the plant rather than to the base where roots need to form, and high light intensity will produce this problem, making it hard for some plants to germinate, such as Haworthia and cactus globes, while Agave species instead germinate better with a certain light intensity, so it depends on the specific variety. Light intensity also causes plant transpiration, or in plain terms, the plant gets sun-dried, so for a plant that has already shriveled to a certain degree, such as Haworthia 'Hongwen Shou' (actually some people also call it 'Ziji Shou'; Chinese common names are usually very imprecise anyway), the shriveling means the hormone level is already sufficient, and if it is further sunned, having no roots to replenish water, its body fluids nearly coagulate, so even a high hormone level is in vain.
4. Suitable tissue. If you take a petal and use it for cuttings, it will certainly not root; everyone knows this. But the positions we often think can be used for cuttings are in fact very difficult to root, such as old lignified stems. For example, last year I rotted more than 40 specially selected 'Dongxing'; the reason was that I used almost lignified large old 'Dongxing' plants for cuttings, and after maintaining them for several months, the base still did not germinate roots; the plant tissue there was too aged, and it was very difficult to sprout new root buds. In that post I also saw a fairly large head; in fact, if these large heads do not carry a bit of root base, they are not easy to root. When propagating in the greenhouse, this point is very obvious. For example, for leaf cuttings of 'Qiuwuyu', roots usually germinate after 2 weeks, but when making a head, even though it looks as if it has more leaves and better condition, it instead takes 1 month before it begins to root. Conversely, overly small tender tissue is also not easy to germinate and survive. Although these tissue cells are young and active, when such tissue is too small, the stored nutrients are insufficient, and it dies before rooting, so suitable tissue must be chosen here. Nowadays on the internet one often sees small Haworthia sprouts under 1 cm, or Agave seedlings with 2-3 leaves. I kindly remind everyone that such seedlings are very hard to keep alive; even if they survive, the recovery period for growth is very long. For example, for a 10 cm 'Jiaxie' sprout, you can make it grow very vigorously within 1 year, while for one under 5 cm with 2-3 leaves, in a year you may only see it grow 1-2 leaves, and it is still just a sprout. To keep such a small seedling alive is already not easy; to make it grow into a specimen plant, you must wait at least 2-3 years or more longer than for a 10 cm seedling.
5. Good healing. After a wound is cut, various bacteria may infect the wound. When the infection is severe, the tissue rots. Although you may see that they have infected only a little of the surface, there may already be a great deal of mycelium inside. Those bacteria produce toxins, affecting healing and germination, so good wound treatment is crucial. Infection sometimes has a great impact on germination; sometimes after cutting for a long time there are no roots, and it even suddenly rots; the reason is infection. Therefore, treatment after cutting is very important. For tissue with roots, after the roots shrink, heal, or even fall off, the wound left behind is smaller and easier to heal, while the reason leaf cuttings are difficult to succeed is that leaf wounds are relatively easy to infect. Cut tissue must be dried; this differs from cuttings. At this time, dry air is instead beneficial for safe healing of the tissue. If it is some plant with a lot of sap, you also need to use a paper towel to promptly dry the wound, to avoid its not healing and exuding sap that causes bacteria and mold to breed and affect the wound. Appropriately drying the plant, even until its tissue has shriveled to a certain degree, before making cuttings is good for both Haworthia and cactus globes.
Finally, here is a relatively safe solution for the balcony. First dry the plant tissue until it has appropriately shriveled, then use a flower pot and place a little medium-grade vermiculite at the part where the soil surface contacts the tissue, because vermiculite contains few bacteria and little organic matter that can rot. (As for disinfecting cutting soil, I actually do not recommend it, because although disinfected soil is very clean at first, later there may be a major mold outbreak, since there are no other microorganisms inside to inhibit mold, and powerful molds instead are the first to arrive. If conditions permit, applying EM bacteria to the soil is highly recommended.) Then water thoroughly, cover the pot with a plastic bag, and remember to blow up the plastic bag with your mouth; this breath is very important, as high-concentration carbon dioxide is food for plants, as anyone who keeps aquatic plants knows. Place it in half shade and wait; this kind of cutting has a very high success rate, and can create a local environment of high carbon dioxide, high air humidity, and relatively safe medium. The occasional unsuccessful ones can only be blamed on one's luck; no one can avoid this probability of failure, including the most professional nurseries.
Oh, regarding temperature, I do not have a specific explanation for this. Of course, what should be said here is that suitable temperature actually means the temperature of the growing season. Different plants have different temperatures at which growth enzymes are activated, so it is hard to explain them all clearly one by one, but there is one principle: for winter-growing types and summer-growing types, the cutting temperature and timing should rather be early than late; that is, the temperature should be on the low side rather than the high side.
One reason is the high temperatures of summer. Some winter-growing types have already gone dormant, which may cause the plant you cut to start in summer but only begin to recover in autumn. This seriously affects appearance, and some may even be difficult to recover. In summer, microbial activity is vigorous, and the probability of rot is much greater than in early spring. Late autumn is a very good time for greenhouses, but for ordinary balconies, especially for flower enthusiasts in the north, plants will enter winter dormancy and air humidity will suddenly drop, so for most plants the best cutting time is early spring or early summer.
The plum rain season is very suitable for plant growth, but in this season grafted and cut scions very easily rot, because air humidity is too high and plant wounds heal very difficultly. When making cuttings, plants need high air humidity, but when drying the cuttings, relatively low air humidity is safer. Here there is a contradiction. I generally make cuttings in the greenhouse; some are simply placed on a granite countertop with scattered light. If greater safety is wanted, place them at the greenhouse air inlet or outside the greenhouse.
In addition, when air humidity is even higher (such as under bagging), mushrooms in some flower pots in my greenhouse will grow out in the sunlight. This is caused by an imbalance of beneficial microbial flora in the soil, so I have always recommended that everyone use EM bacteria. That microbial product has special horticultural soil formulas; for example, "Huoshui" has such a soil-specific formula, and Cuiyun also has similar things. EM bacteria can inhibit large soil fungi; much of the white fuzz is actually the mycelium of mushrooms, and they cause a certain degree of harm to dead tissue and even living tissue.
The greenhouse is actually a large high-humidity environment, but this environment will have air convection. For example, my greenhouse is equipped with a ceiling fan. On cloudy days with continuously moist soil, I will turn on the ceiling fan to increase the retained oxygen in the soil and avoid the situation of roots drowning, which is simpler and more efficient than adjusting the small environment of an ordinary balcony.
And if a bagged high-humidity micro-environment is created for cuttings, overly wet soil will be very fatal, so this soil moisture needs to be controlled well. Sometimes, if you worry that too-wet soil will cause tissue hypoxia and rot, there are two simple solutions. One is to expose the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot from the bag and squeeze the bag to let more air enter the soil; the other is to periodically pull out the cutting. Once it has roots, there is no need to move it; before it has roots, when the cutting is separated from the soil, there is enough air there for many days, so it is less likely to drown part of the tissue and cause rotting.
(Reprinted)
A Brief Discussion of the Growth Characteristics of Lophophora Plants
This is a pot of cutting seedlings. You can see that at relatively low temperatures (-3~10°C), the fish in the middle shows yellowing and shrinkage, and the fish at the lower right shows reddening and shrinkage. The colored fish feels very soft to the touch, like a persimmon, but this is all normal. Low temperature causes the base to change color, and undeveloped roots plus low temperature cause softening. It will improve on its own next year and will not leave any scars, so there is no need to worry.This is a fish that was successfully experimented on by cutting off the head to turn it into a clustered plant. It is a seed-grown plant with a turnip root, no hormones were used, and it became like this by combining root cutting with environmental conditions (see point five below for details).
You can also see that at relatively cold temperatures (-3~10°C), the base of each head turns red and the main body turns yellow, and this is also normal. Interestingly, because in the early stage the roots were flushed very fully in order to produce multiple heads, after a long period without water, the small heads still had nutrients and water and still maintained growth under relatively harsh conditions (green growing points). Although the base turned red, it did not shrivel. After the head was cut off, the main body of the fish no longer had its original growing point, and after exposure to cold it turned yellow. Because it was no longer the growing part, although the roots stored sufficient water and nutrients, this part still shrank, and the closer to the ground, the more severely it shrank, appearing like wrinkled kraft paper (the entire main body will gradually shrink and become smaller in the future). This is the plant's spontaneous behavior of redistributing nutrients, automatically adjusting plant form and using nutrients where they are most promising.
3. Strong reproductive capacity：
The reproductive capacity of Lophophora plants can be called astonishing. Whether it is the asexual propagation method of offset cutting or the sexual propagation method of pollination and seed setting, both are very good and very powerful! Many varieties can not only hybridize within the genus, but can also successfully self-pollinate, and can even successfully pollinate between genera (except for individual horticultural varieties; I am afraid they themselves are the products of hybridization!)
First, asexual propagation. Any variety of Lophophora plant can very easily be beheaded and cut for propagation, producing small heads and becoming clustered. The secret is high humidity and closed cultivation, with slight shading. The ultimate weapon of asexual propagation is to first graft the Lophophora plant onto a large rootstock, fatten it up, and then after cutting one Lophophora plant N times, it can become NN identical Lophophora plants. There was once a saying that Lophophora plants and triangular stems are not very compatible; I also easily grafted them successfully with small triangular stems, and those who are not confident can use Stenocereus griseus to increase the success rate.
Now for sexual propagation. Many Lophophora plants can self-pollinate, which is also a manifestation of their mixed bloodlines; the offspring can segregate in traits. But seeds from self-pollination are always fewer than those from cross-pollination; this point is beyond doubt. There is also a little trick: the more distant the blood relationship in hybridization, the more likely the offspring are to show variegation! For example, if a very pure Lophophora fricii (such as a wild source or with very white skin color) is pollinated with a very pure Lophophora diffusa (such as a wild source or with very emerald-green skin color), the probability of variegation in the next generation is higher than that of offspring obtained by pollinating Lophophora fricii with Lophophora fricii or Lophophora diffusa with Lophophora diffusa.
There was even once a saying that the pollen of Lophophora plants is a "universal cure-all", able to make some Gymnocalycium and other genera of cactus set fruit. Quite a few master growers claimed success, but I myself have never managed to produce it. This also shows from one aspect that Lophophora plants have strong reproductive capacity! At least it provides one possibility for the origin of Lophophora jourdaniana.
The picture shows a cross between the more distantly related Lophophora fricii and Lophophora diffusa, resulting in a variegated Lophophora plant.
4. Strong adaptability to light and heat：
There is no doubt that Lophophora plants are a variety that likes high temperatures. High temperatures (30~40°C) can make them root quickly, and combined with high humidity can accelerate growth. Adult fish with good roots, under conditions of not excessively watering and fertilizing, are very unlikely to be scorched even at very high temperatures (50~60°C) (but growth will slow or stop).
But as said above, under low-temperature conditions, Lophophora plants can also grow and survive; as for temperature, they are not very picky.
I have found that my Lophophora plants can grow quickly under two conditions:
1. Stable relatively high temperature (30~40°C) plus high humidity and closed cultivation ---- summer growing period;
2. Low temperature at night (5~10°C) and relatively high temperature during the day (20~30°C), widening the temperature difference ---- spring and autumn growing period. The same is true for light: whether strong light or weak light, they can all grow and survive well, but under strong light the fish can become very beautiful, hairy varieties become hairier, varieties with white powder become whiter, and the body becomes flatter. Varieties with especially green color, such as some Lophophora diffusa, especially need increased light, otherwise they easily become columnar.
5. The growth of the aboveground part is greatly affected by the roots：
The roots of the fish often take priority over the growth of the aboveground part; the principle is that nutrients are stored in the roots. To send troops and horses, food and forage must go first. The fish also knows that only when the roots grow large can the aboveground part have a foundation for growth. Some seed-grown Lophophora will resolutely stop growing after the aboveground part reaches a certain size, because this size has reached the limit that the single underground turnip root can support. So at this time we cut half of the turnip root away, and the fish will quickly produce many new roots on the cut surface of the root. After a few years, the new roots will become many turnip roots; the total root volume becomes larger, and the aboveground fish begins to grow again. Do not waste the cut-off root either; after cutting it will become a new small clustered plant.
If you want a single-headed fish to naturally become clustered, you can also start from the roots. First cut the roots, then let the root-cut fish grow under relatively extreme conditions. In this way, the fish is more inclined to grow roots (just as when we are about to fight a war we like to dig deep pits and store grain widely). After multiple fat turnip roots have grown, suddenly make the conditions very good, increase water and fertilizer, and one growing point aboveground will not be able to keep up, so it will naturally burst out many small heads and become clustered. So we can see that for the fish, the roots are the granary. If it is not for purposeful and planned artistic processing, the fish does not need frequent root pruning, especially the main root, because its old roots will not rot just because it is moved to another pot or has a little damage, unlike other cactus globes, so there is no need to prune back and forth every time it is repotted.
The above little growth characteristics of Lophophora are all obtained from summing up experience. If there is anything inappropriate, everyone is welcome to criticize and correct it, and I hope more friends can sum up some of their own little experiences and make them public, so that everyone can learn and benefit. Below are the commonly used Latin names of common varieties of this genus:
1. Lophophora koehresii, the smallest Lophophora variety, dark green, with sharply angular tubercles. (Wild variety).
2. Lophophora jourdaniana, Jordan's peyote, a spiny Lophophora; flower color can be red, white, or pink; poor reproductive capacity.
3. Lophophora williamsii, the original peyote species (wild variety), with many regional forms.
3.1 Lophophora williamsii var. decipiens, false silver crown (wild variety), one of the varieties of peyote; the Latin meaning of decipiens is false, "disguised". Some merchants call this species "warty silver crown", which is pure nonsense; "warty silver crown" is a trait selected and bred by artificial hybridization, whereas this species is a natural wild variety.
3.2 Lophophora williamsii var. caespitosa, clustering peyote
3.3 Lophophora williamsii var. texana (texensis), large peyote
4. Lophophora diffusa, false peyote (wild variety)
4.1 Lophophora fricii, Fric's peyote (wild variety)
5. Lophophora lutea, yellow-skinned peyote, similar to a "colorful skin" constitution; in some states it becomes very yellow.
A Brief Discussion of the Growth Characteristics of Lophophora PlantsLophophora is a genus that is relatively widely popular among cactus varieties grown in homes today. It can adapt well to the home cultivation environments of cactus enthusiasts in various regions of China, is deeply loved by a broad range of enthusiasts, and is affectionately called "wuyu" by everyone. I am also a "fish fan", and in several years of cactus cultivation I have been involved with some varieties of this genus. Through my own exploration and exchanges with senior master growers, I have summarized some little growth characteristics of plants of this genus, and hope to share them with everyone.
First, let us talk about the classification of Lophophora. Overall, the classification of Lophophora is relatively chaotic. However, through simple visual inspection, by convention we can roughly divide them into three major categories: Lophophora williamsii, Lophophora fricii, and Lophophora diffusa. We say "roughly" because many varieties of this genus have very strong "compatibility", and can hybridize within the genus and even between genera. In addition, the masters in Fujian and Japan have worked hard at "crossbreeding selection" (greenhouses in Fujian have the habit of keeping bees, and in the greenhouse they go up to pollinate any flower) and "bloodline doctrine" (the surnames Cunzhu, Xiaoji, and Gutianbei are all familiar to everyone, right? They are all strains selected after messy hybridization), and merchants casually attach traits at random for hype. Therefore, the classification system made for wild plants in their places of origin can no longer be used accurately, and true "pure-blood plants" on the market are no longer easy to see. But not having a specific classification system does not have much impact on us simple enthusiasts; looking good is enough, and liking the name is enough. As for buying seeds, we only need to remember the commonly used Latin names of the plants we like; some will be listed at the end of the article for reference.
Lophophora has many distinctive characteristics that other genera and species do not possess:
1. Strong self-repair ability：
Lophophora has a very strong self-repair ability and can carry out a certain degree of self-repair for various injuries; after a few months it can settle the wound. Especially for minor injuries with little epidermal damage, such as compression injuries, internal injuries (falling from a height), slight sunburn, and frostbite, it can even leave no scar. Very magical! Although larger wounds cannot be completely repaired, they can heal very well, and infection is not easily spread. So when you accidentally injure a fish, do not be too anxious; the result is not necessarily as bad as you imagine. There are two examples: the first is a master grower whose fish fell from the 3rd floor (together with the pot); the fish was deformed from the fall (the epidermis was not broken), and after being picked up and grown again it survived, with no scars, though after a year it split into multiple heads; presumably the growing point was shattered. The second is more common: a fish with poor roots was extensively sunburned (almost the entire aboveground part had no green left), with the epidermis the color of kraft paper. After being properly conditioned for several months, a small head emerged from each tubercle, directly becoming clustered. It should be noted that after injury the fish should not be watered; place it in a cool place, and do not use medicine either. Maintaining ventilation, air permeability, and low humidity is enough. Wait until you see definite green new growing points, and then watering is relatively safe.
2. Strong cold resistance：
Actually, Lophophora is very cold-tolerant, provided it is a healthy adult plant with a turnip root (balls that have just come from greenhouses and Japan I classify as subhealthy, and they have nothing to do with what is said below). The cold tolerance of Lophophora can even rank among the top of common cactus globes. My own fish have tried running bare at minus 3 degrees, and were completely fine.
As far as I know, some master growers have tried even lower temperatures, and it was likewise very safe. One point that needs explanation is that in the three seasons of spring, autumn, and winter each year, before and after exposure to cold, Lophophora will soften and shrink on its own, and even turn dark red or pale yellow, and to the touch can be as soft as dough, especially near the roots. This change is normal. Absolutely do not think it is dying and cut it open or pinch it back and forth to test the feel. When the temperature rises, the shriveled body will slowly harden, turn green, and become round again on its own, like inflating a balloon.
Those who do not believe it can try taking a Lophophora that has already turned yellow and soft from cold into a room with heating, and after a week it will change back. Another point that needs explanation is that the earlier water is cut off, the more cold-tolerant the fish is. At extremely low temperatures, the fish absolutely must not be watered, otherwise everything said above does not hold.