How to Propagate Dianthus by Cuttings? A Detailed Guide to Pest and Disease Control
Perfect Dianthus? Don't doubt it - this variety is indeed called Perfect Dianthus. It is a unique Dianthus hybrid with a compact plant, dense branches and leaves, brilliant flower colors, and a flowering period of more than 10 months. It is deeply loved by people and has wide application in landscape gardening.
Perfect Dianthus likes to grow in full-sun conditions and is suitable for the subtropical monsoon climate and tropical monsoon climate zones between 18°30' and 32°20' north latitude. Perfect Dianthus is a perennial herbaceous Dianthus with strong adaptability. It stays evergreen all year round, loves light and does not tolerate shade, has fairly good drought resistance, strong resistance, and very few pests and diseases. It is easy to manage, tolerant of foot traffic, and its leaves are flexible and neat, shaped like Ophiopogon japonicus, giving it high foliage ornamental value. In the Hangzhou area, it can still grow and bloom normally at high temperatures of around 40°C in summer. In the Jiangsu-Zhejiang-Shanghai region, it is planted in large stretches, and in winter, without windproofing or insulation measures, it can overwinter naturally in the open field. Its cutting survival rate and coverage rate are high, making it an excellent landscape groundcover flowering plant with promising market prospects.
1. Cutting Orchard
Choose a field with loose, fertile, slightly acidic, neutral, or slightly alkaline soil as the seedbed. Apply base fertilizer in winter using fully decomposed organic fertilizer at 1500 kg per mu. Plow, dig trenches, and build beds. Dig deep trenches around the entire field, 50 cm deep and 50 cm wide. The bed surface width is 120 cm. Break up the soil clods on the bed surface finely, with the middle of the bed surface slightly higher and both sides slightly lower. The walkway is 30 cm wide and 25 cm deep. Move high-quality two-color cup seedlings to the field. Except during the high-temperature season from July to August, they can be transplanted throughout the year, with a plant spacing of 30 cm and a row spacing of 30 cm, about 6000 plants per mu. Trim off excessively long lateral roots. The transplanting depth should basically match the original plant depth. Pile fine soil around the roots and press firmly, then water thoroughly with settling water in time. If there is continuous rainy weather, drain promptly. Starting about 15 days after transplanting, from March to August, apply calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer and quick-acting fertilizer (compound fertilizer N : P : K = 20 : 20 : 20) once a month. Dosage for both fertilizers: 15 kg each per mu each time. Apply dry, spreading between rows, then immediately loosen the soil and weed. After half a year of maintenance, the field-planted cutting orchard is established. After harvesting cuttings, apply calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer once more at 10 kg per mu.
2. Cutting Propagation
2.1 Collecting Cuttings
Except in winter and the high-temperature summer season, from March to June and in September, collect healthy, uniformly high-quality current-year cuttings from the cutting orchard.
2.2 Substrate Formula
The substrate formula in plug trays or shallow trays is peat : perlite = 7 : 3 (volume ratio), dry bulk density 0.48, total porosity 50.36%, macroporosity 16.70%, microporosity 33.66%, maximum water holding capacity 1.56, pH 6.14, EC 2.88 mS/cm. Add an appropriate amount of water to the substrate, stir thoroughly and evenly, then fill into plug trays or shallow trays.
2.3 Cutting Specifications
Cuttings are 3 to 5 cm long, retaining the growing tip. The lower cut is made at the plant base, cut from below the node (leaf ring), retaining all leaves. Do not select branches with flower buds or flowers.
2.4 Disinfection and Disease Prevention
One day in advance, disinfect the seedbed and substrate with 1000 times diluted potassium permanganate solution. After cutting, disinfect with 800 times diluted carbendazim solution. Thereafter, disinfect once every half month with 800 times diluted carbendazim solution or 1000 times diluted mancozeb.
2.5 Cutting and Moisture Retention
Use two methods for cutting: plug trays and shallow trays. The cutting depth is about 2 cm. Water on the same day after cutting, cover with shade netting with a shading rate of about 75%, and take necessary cooling measures at the same time, keeping the temperature inside the shed below 35°C. Usually pay attention to substrate moisture; it should not be too wet or too dry. Check daily. Keep the relative air humidity inside the shed at around 75%, and water to retain moisture about every 10 days.
2.6 Maintenance and Management
About 15 to 20 days after cutting, about 95% of the cuttings have rooted. Remove the shade netting. Five days after removal, spray foliar fertilizer. Thereafter, every 7 to 10 days, spray foliar fertilizer once after watering, using 1000 times diluted Greenfert solution, or spray or drench with 1000 times diluted urea solution. Combined with disease prevention, spray with 1000 times diluted mancozeb solution. After the cuttings root, pinch the main shoot in the morning to promote new shoots. Weed in time, control pests and diseases, and drain promptly after rain. After about 45 days of maintenance, seedlings are formed, with a seedling formation rate of over 95%.
3. Commercial Seedling Production
3.1 Plug Seedlings
Use 128-cell or 72-cell plug trays, inserting 1 cutting per cell. After about 45 days of careful cultivation, plug seedlings are formed. Seedling specifications: plant height about 3 cm, more than 5 branches, robust plants, well-developed root system, free of pests and diseases, seedling formation rate over 95%.
3.2 Shallow Tray Seedlings
Spread substrate in a shallow tray to a thickness of about 5 cm. Cutting density: plant spacing 5 cm, row spacing 5 cm, cutting depth about 2 cm. After about 45 days of careful cultivation, tray seedlings are formed. Seedling specifications: plant height about 3 cm, more than 5 branches, robust plants, well-developed root system, free of pests and diseases, seedling formation rate over 95%.
3.3 Two-Color Cup Seedlings
Transplant plug seedlings or tray seedlings into rigid two-color cups with a diameter of 12 cm and a depth of 11 cm, filled with growing medium. Growing medium formula: garden soil : compost : sandy soil = 6 : 2 : 2 (volume ratio), mixed thoroughly. Fill soil to a depth of 9 to 10 cm. Transplant 1 to 2 plants per container. Except during the peak growing and flowering season when timely watering is needed, water normally to keep the soil moist. Keep relative air humidity at around 75%. Before flowering, spray water appropriately to regulate humidity, which can prevent flower buds from splitting early. In the rainy season, pay attention to loosening the soil and drainage. In midsummer, plants are in a semi-dormant state; avoid harsh sun exposure and provide shade to cool down. Regularly cut off entire spent flowering branches to encourage continuous new flowers, with flowering branches tillering from the base. During the growing season, apply 1000 times diluted phosphate solution once every 2 weeks. After about 90 days of careful cultivation, two-color cup seedlings are formed. Seedling specifications: seedling height over 5 cm, crown width over 12 cm, dense branches and leaves, compact crown shape, full and well-proportioned, robust plants, free of pests and diseases, seedling formation rate over 95%.
3.4 Potted Seedlings
Choose containers of various shapes and sizes, rigid and attractive. Transplant 2 to 3 plug seedlings or tray seedlings into the container. When the seedling height is about 3 cm, remove the terminal bud to promote branching. Remove axillary flower buds in time to promote terminal flower buds to bloom. After about 90 days of careful maintenance, potted seedlings are formed. Seedling specifications: seedling height over 5 cm, flowers in full bloom, dense branches and leaves, compact crown shape, full and well-proportioned, robust plants, free of pests and diseases, seedling formation rate over 95%.
4. Pest and Disease Control
Common diseases include calyx rot, rust, damping-off, wilt, gray mold, bud rot, and root rot. Diseases mainly occur in the high-temperature season from July to September in summer. For calyx rot, use 600 times diluted zineb solution. For rust, spray with 800 times diluted oxycarboxin solution, or 50% carboxin wettable powder at 1500 times dilution. After each pruning, immediately spray once with 600 times diluted carbendazim or chlorothalonil solution. To prevent diseases, spray the seedbed and substrate with 600 times diluted zineb, carbendazim, or captan solution before cutting or transplanting.
Pests mainly include red spider mites and aphids. Use 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate at 1500 times dilution to kill red spider mites, and 40% dimethoate emulsion at 1000 times dilution to kill aphids.
The above is all the content compiled by the editors of Huinong.com today. Everyone is welcome to come to Huinong.com to learn more related techniques!
Cultivation Points of Dianthus plumarius and Measures Taken for Pest and Disease Control
Dianthus plumarius, a groundcover plant known as "not withering in winter, not dormant in summer," has beautiful leaf shapes, brilliant flower colors, fragrant flowers, and a long flowering period. It is widely used to decorate large urban green spaces and is deeply loved by people. Today I will take everyone to learn about the cultivation points of Dianthus plumarius and the measures taken for pest and disease control.
Propagation Methods:
Dianthus plumarius can be propagated by sowing, division, and cuttings. Sowing can be done in spring or autumn, with the specific time depending on the local climate. It is most suitable when the temperature is around 20 degrees. It can be sown in the open field in spring or autumn. In cold regions, it can be sown in cold frames or hotbeds in spring and autumn. The suitable germination temperature is 15-20°C. If the temperature is too high, germination is inhibited. Seedlings are usually transplanted twice before final planting, and after transplanting, spray with New High Lipid Film to improve the survival rate. Division propagation is mostly carried out in April. Cuttings root well and can be inserted in sand beds in spring and autumn.
1. Watering
Since Dianthus plumarius is drought-tolerant and tolerant of poor soil, the timing and frequency of watering should be flexible according to dry weather conditions and soil moisture. In water management, grasp the principle of preferring dry over wet. If there is a long drought without rain and the weather is dry, appropriately increase watering frequency. In the plum rain season or after heavy rain, pay attention to drainage to prevent waterlogging in the lawn and seedlings drowning. Spraying New High Lipid Film can regulate water absorption. According to lawn management experience, after each flowering and pruning of Dianthus plumarius, water promptly and apply 10 kg to 15 kg of compound fertilizer per mu to promote seedling growth and earlier flowering next time. For newly planted Dianthus plumarius, the first settling water must be watered thoroughly, then every 2 to 3 days, water again according to conditions.
2. Pruning
Pruning plays a very important role in the management of Dianthus plumarius. Proper pruning can make the lawn grow vigorously, develop a strong root system, and bloom abundantly. The flowering period of Dianthus plumarius lasts from late spring to autumn with continuous blooming. After each bloom fades, the flower stems must be pruned. For newly planted seedlings, to promote growth and reduce nutrient consumption, they are generally not allowed to bloom. Prune after the flowers fade in late June to early July. The pruning height should be such that it can destroy the growth points of most branches, so as to encourage more tillering and rapid lawn formation. Generally, retain about 8 cm to 9 cm. The last pruning is carried out from late August to early September. This pruning lays the foundation for Dianthus plumarius to overwinter smoothly and grow robustly the following year. Therefore, it should be pruned relatively heavily to increase its winter cold resistance and ornamental effect, generally retaining a height of about 5 cm.
Pest and Disease Control:
Dianthus plumarius has strong adaptability and extensive management. Pests rarely occur. Diseases mainly occur in the high-temperature season from July to September in summer, mainly including damping-off and wilt.
Control Methods:
(1) After each pruning, immediately spray once with carbendazim and chlorothalonil.
(2) After diseased plants are found, pull them out immediately and burn them in a centralized manner, then disinfect the soil before replanting.
(3) Drain promptly to prevent waterlogging in the lawn.
The above is all the content I have learned today about the cultivation points of Dianthus plumarius and the measures taken for pest and disease control. I hope flower lovers will find this article helpful after reading it. To learn more, please continue to follow our Succulent Flower Garden. We will provide you with more related knowledge!
Pest and Disease Control of Clivia (with pictures)
Many flower lovers encounter pest and disease problems with Clivia and often find it difficult to determine whether their Clivia has a disease or a pest problem, making it impossible to carry out timely and effective control. Below is a compilation of common pest and disease control methods for Clivia for flower lovers' reference.(1) Leaf Spot Disease
This disease mainly infects leaves. In the early stage of infection, small brown spots appear on the leaves, gradually expanding into large irregular yellow-brown to gray-brown lesions. The diseased part is slightly sunken, with slightly raised edges. In the later stage, the lesions dry up and small black dots grow on them. The pathogen is a fungus that survives and overwinters on diseased parts and diseased residues. Conidia spread through wind and rain for primary and secondary infection. It mostly invades through wounds. Under greenhouse conditions, it can occur throughout the year, with more occurrences from July to October. In cultivation, when too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied and relatively less phosphorus and potassium fertilizer is used, the disease is prone to occur. Under high-temperature and dry conditions, or when scale insects cause serious damage, leaf spot disease is prone to occur and cause harm. The pathogen survives on diseased leaves of host plants and mostly infects through wounds. Plants with weak growth are prone to the disease.
[Control Methods]
① Remove diseased leaves and diseased residues and burn them in a centralized manner to reduce infection sources. Improve garden ventilation and permeability, appropriately increase potassium fertilizer, and avoid excessive watering.
② Control scale insects to avoid pest damage and reduce infection.
③ In the early stage of the disease, spray with 50% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution, 70% thiophanate wettable powder at 1000 times dilution, or 50% amobam at 1000 times dilution. Or promptly spray with 30% copper oxychloride suspension concentrate + 80% mancozeb wettable powder (1:1, mix and spray immediately) at 800 times dilution, or 75% chlorothalonil + 70% thiophanate wettable powder (1:1) at 800 to 1000 times dilution, or 40% carbendazim-iprodione wettable powder at 700 times dilution, alternating sprays. Be careful to spray evenly and thoroughly, once every 7 to 15 days, for 3 to 4 consecutive sprays, with shorter intervals first and longer intervals later.
(2) Soft Rot
Rhizome rot. It occurs in all regions during the high-temperature season, but is more common in North China and areas south of North China.
Both the stem base and leaves can be affected. Small water-soaked spots first appear at the stem base, gradually turning into light brown spots, rapidly expanding and spreading upward and downward, with tissue rotting, causing the whole plant to lodge and die, and leaves easily detach. Leaves can also be directly infected, initially water-soaked and dark green, gradually expanding, with diseased tissue rotting and becoming semi-transparent, and the lesions have yellow halos, with the halos appearing as broad bands. Under suitable temperature and humidity conditions, the lesions expand quickly, and the entire leaf rots and disintegrates into wet rot.
Two species of soft rot pathogenic bacteria have been reported in China. Erwinia chrysanthemi, a Gram-negative bacterium. The pathogenic bacteria overwinter in diseased residues in the soil or in the soil, and can survive in the soil for several months. The bacteria spread through rainwater and irrigation water, and can also spread through mutual contact between diseased and healthy leaves, or through tools and other objects. The bacteria invade through wounds, with a short incubation period of 2-3 days, and there are multiple secondary infections during the growing season. The disease can occur from June to October, but is most suitable from June to July. High temperature and high humidity conditions favor the disease, with high humidity being the main factor affecting disease occurrence. In summer, rain entering the stem core of Clivia, or water accidentally poured into the stem core during spraying, are the main triggers for soft rot. Excessive nitrogen fertilizer also aggravates the occurrence of the disease.
Besides Clivia, Erwinia chrysanthemi also infects chrysanthemum, dahlia, Dianthus caryophyllus, Parthenium argentatum, Dieffenbachia, begonia, Philodendron, and other ornamental flowering plants. The incidence rate of large-flowered Clivia is higher than that of drooping Clivia.
Control Methods
When watering, never pour water into the heart of the leaves. If it is poured in, absorb it dry immediately. For diseased plants, according to the Qingdao Landscape Institute, promptly pull them out with roots, remove the soil and already rotted parts; soak in 0.1% potassium permanganate solution for 5 minutes, then rinse once with clean water, place roots upward, sun in the sun for half an hour, then dry in the shade for 4 to 5 days. Sterilize potted soil at high temperature. After it has completely cooled, repot. Do not bury the soil too deep. Water thoroughly and place in a cool place to recover for 10 to 15 days, and new leaves will grow. This method has a good control effect.
Reduce infection sources. Diseased soil cannot be used continuously. Diseased flower pots and other utensils must be heat-disinfected before use. Promptly cut off lesions on leaves and burn them.
Strengthen cultivation management and control the occurrence of diseases. Apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer and an appropriate amount of nitrogen fertilizer. The watering method should be appropriate, and strictly prevent water from being poured into the stem core.
After lesions appear, immediately spray or smear with 400 ppm streptomycin, or inject into the diseased pseudobulb with a syringe, all of which have good therapeutic effects.
(3) Anthracnose
It occurs all over the country.
Anthracnose mainly harms leaves and tender stems. After onset, round or nearly round lesions appear on the leaves, while lesions at leaf margins and tips are semicircular or irregular. In the early stage, the lesions are small and reddish-brown, then gradually expand and deepen in color, becoming grayish-white in the center, sometimes with a yellow halo at the edges. Finally, the lesions become dark brown, concentrically ringed, with small black dots growing on them, which are the pathogen's acervuli. When moist, pinkish mucus oozes from the black dots.
[Pathogen] The pathogen is a fungus, Colletotrichum orbiculare. It overwinters as mycelium in host residues or soil. In early April of the following year, old leaves begin to become diseased. From May to June, at 22-28°C, it develops rapidly. In the high-temperature and high-humidity plum rain season, the disease is severe. Conidia spread through airflow, wind and rain, watering, etc., and mostly invade through wounds. Seedlings suffer more severely than mature plants and can harm young stems, and in severe cases the entire plant dies. Excessive watering and overly dense placement make the disease prone to occur.
[Control Methods]
(1) Horticultural control: Cut off diseased leaves or lesions, with the cutting position larger than the lesion, and destroy them promptly. Improve the watering method and water from the edge of the pot. Improve ventilation conditions. Strengthen cultivation management and cultivate healthy plants.
(2) Chemical control: In the early stage of the disease, spray with 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 700-800 times dilution, 50% thiram wettable powder at 500 times dilution, 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder at 800-**** times dilution, or 75% chlorothalonil at 500 times dilution. If necessary, spray once with 70% thiram at 500 times dilution.
(4) Southern Blight
It mainly occurs at the root collar near the ground, showing water-soaked yellow-brown to reddish-brown wet rot. The surface of the affected part is covered with white silky mycelium, which spreads to the soil surface. Later, sclerotia form on the mycelium. The sclerotia are initially white, then turn yellow, reddish-brown, and finally dark brown, about the size of rapeseed. In severe cases, the entire plant is affected, is easy to pull up, and the leaves are very easy to pull off.
The pathogen is a fungus, Sclerotium rolfsii. Plants planted in contaminated soil are prone to the disease in hot, rainy, and humid summers. Under warm and humid greenhouse conditions, the disease can occur earlier.
Medication Treatment:
(1) Chemical control: For lightly affected plants, remove the diseased part, disinfect the base with 0.1% mercuric chloride water for 5 minutes, then wash with water, then soak in a-naphthaleneacetic acid solution at a concentration of 50x10-6 to 100x10-6 for several hours, and re-cut in sterile moist sandy soil, where they can re-root. When changing pot soil, use sterilized fertile soil, and for chemical disinfection refer to orchid southern blight. A 82 Trichoderma bran biological preparation (produced by the Plant Protection Department of Zhejiang Agricultural University) can be applied to the soil, keeping the soil at a certain humidity to promote the mass reproduction of Trichoderma, thereby inhibiting the pathogen and achieving disease control.
(2) In the early stage of the disease, use 15% triadimefon or 50% tolclofos-methyl wettable powder, mix with 100 to 200 parts fine soil, and sprinkle at the root collar of the diseased part, with obvious control effect. You can also spray 50% amobam at 1000 times dilution on the plant base and surrounding soil, then after 7 to 10 days, spray once more. After that, apply 70% thiophanate at 1000 times dilution, or 50% carbendazim at 1000 times dilution to the rhizosphere soil to inhibit the spread of the disease. After pulling out severely diseased plants, use 50% amobam at 500 times dilution, or lime powder to drench or sprinkle the diseased holes to disinfect the soil.
(5) Clivia Sunscald
[Symptoms] Unclear yellow dry necrotic patches appear at the edges of affected leaves.
[Pathogen and Occurrence Pattern] Clivia sunscald is a physiological injury of Clivia. Clivia sunscald mostly occurs in hot summers, especially when Clivia seedlings have tender leaves and the sunlight is too strong, making them prone to sunscald.
[Control Methods] ① When growing Clivia in a greenhouse, provide appropriate shade from June to September. When the indoor temperature exceeds 30, strengthen ventilation or take water-spraying cooling measures. ② It should be placed in a cool and ventilated place. ③ Once Clivia develops sunscald, the affected leaves should be cut off to prevent the damage from spreading and causing other diseases.
(5) Red Spot Disease
Clivia red spot disease is a condition caused by viruses, bacteria, and certain physiological factors.
Occurrence Pattern: In the early stage, small round dots that are white, pinkish-yellow, or apricot-red appear on the underside of the leaves. If measures are not taken promptly after discovering this disease, over time the spots become larger and larger, the color gradually deepens, and the spotted areas become sunken and rotten. In mild cases, the spots merge into one patch, rotting the leaf and causing "head loss." The cause is mostly viral infection. As for the source of the virus, most cases come from using fertilizer that has not been fully fermented and decomposed. Raw fertilizer rots in the soil, causing more microorganisms and viruses to multiply in large numbers at the stem and root base of Clivia. These microorganisms and viruses stick to the root system of Clivia and absorb nutrients, causing the physiological functions of Clivia to be blocked, and the leaves show red spot symptoms.
Control Methods: Clivia red spot disease mostly comes from the roots. If red spot disease is found, immediately repot and change the soil, then wash the roots and stems of the Clivia, washing away all microorganisms, viruses, and bacteria. You can use 65% wettable zineb powder plus 400 to 500 times water to make a solution, and spray once every 10 days or half a month, 2 to 3 times is sufficient. After repotting, it is advisable to water with magnetized water.