Detailed Guide to Making a Hydroponic Aloe nobilis Bonsai

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

Aloe nobilis is a perennial succulent plant in the family Liliaceae, genus Aloe. Because of its small three-lobed capsule and unusual shape, it is suitable for making into a hydroponic Aloe nobilis bonsai. So how do you make a hydroponic Aloe nobilis bonsai? Below, the editor of Huinong Network will walk you through the method for making a hydroponic Aloe nobilis bonsai and the care guide.

Aloe nobilis can grow to 30-40 cm. The leaves are alternate, arranged at the top of the stem into a fairly dense rosette leaf disc; the leaf surface is concave and the back is rounded and convex, with an acute apex, light green to yellow-green. The leaf margins have white teeth, and it blooms in summer with loose racemes; the flowers are small, orange-yellow to orange-red, with green tips.

1. Method for Making a Hydroponic Aloe nobilis

Cut a rooted offset from beside the root collar of a soil-grown Aloe nobilis, disinfect it with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution for 10 min, wash the roots, then dry the cut surface and plant it in a transparent container. To help hold the roots in place, you may add a small amount of substrate, then pour in clean water up to 2/3 of the roots.

2. Care Guide

(1) Light and Temperature

Aloe nobilis is robust by nature and suitable for growing under semi-shade conditions. It is drought-tolerant and tolerant of poor soil. In winter, the temperature should be kept above 5°C; the optimum growing temperature is 18-28°C, with no other special requirements.

(2) Fertilizing

Aloe nobilis is a small aloe species that is easy to grow hydroponically and needs little fertilizer; even when kept in clean water year-round without nutrient solution, it still grows well.

(3) Changing the Water

For a hydroponic Aloe nobilis, changing the water once a month is enough, and you can also add a suitable amount of fresh water at any time.

The above is the method for making a hydroponic Aloe nobilis bonsai and the care guide compiled by the editor of Huinong Network. The method for making a hydroponic Aloe nobilis bonsai is simple and easy to get the hang of. Friends who want to make a hydroponic Aloe nobilis bonsai should not hesitate, hurry up and give it a try. In addition, be sure to study the care guide for hydroponic Aloe nobilis bonsai well, so as to better grow a hydroponic Aloe nobilis bonsai.

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

Ten Questions on Hydroponic Flower Techniques

1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages does it have?

Answer: In theory, any flower can be grown hydroponically, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote blooming may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plants that are sensitive to oxygen deficiency need air pumped into the nutrient solution at regular intervals to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so suitable nutrient solution formulas must be adopted. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo proper acclimation and adaptation before they can be grown hydroponically. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including the golden
money tree (Pachira aquatica), money tree (Pachira aquatica), Peperomia obtusifolia, Sun God (Dracaena), Calathea, Philodendron 'Little Angel', Mariana (Dracaena), Snake Plant (Sansevieria), golden barrel cactus and other cacti such as Echinocactus, as well as jewel orchid (Anoectochilus) and snake plant (Sansevieria), etc. Hydroponic flowers can go long periods without watering or fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, and are beautiful and elegant, making them the top choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances does the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers contain?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, and others. It is a colorless, odorless, non-toxic product, so please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two-part concentrated solutions?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentration of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution is too high, they can precipitate each other and cause the nutrients to become ineffective. Therefore, to ensure an adequate and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So the hydroponic nutrient solutions currently sold on the market, if there is only one part, often have unbalanced nutrients.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container always better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower's root system and must not be too much. Generally, when the root system is fairly well developed, part of the roots should be left exposed in the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial for healthy root growth. Never add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it should not be too little either; if there is too little, you will need to replenish the nutrient solution frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer about 5-10 cm deep is enough.

5. Do household hydroponic flowers need sunlight?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If they are shade-loving species, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight, but because hydroponic flowers displayed at home are usually in an environment with poor light, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular intervals. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day a week is enough.

6. Do hydroponic flowers require a separate nutrient solution for each type of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every type of flower requires its own corresponding nutrient solution; it is enough to select different nutrient solutions according to the major categories, and of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. At present, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Office of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, foliage plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown in soil be directly converted to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments first. First, take out the soil-grown flowers and wash the roots clean, then soak the roots in a hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before they can be placed in a hydroponic container for hydroponic cultivation.

8. Do flowers and fish kept together need to be fed?

Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because most of the small fish kept together with flowers only need to absorb plankton and secretions from the roots in the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If they are fed, it is instead easy for the fish to overeat and die. At the same time, adding feed also easily makes the nutrient solution cloudy and reduces the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of both the flowers and the fish.

9. When growing hydroponic flowers, should the nutrient solution be replenished or replaced?

Answer: This depends on how quickly the plant uses water. If the weather is dry and the plant is large, generally the nutrient solution needs to be replenished about every 15-20 days, and adding an appropriate amount of nutrient solution at that time is enough. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; just add about 1/3-1/2 of the container depth.

10. What is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it out of light as much as possible, and do not place it where children can reach it.
A Talk on Home Hydroponic Flower Experience

As an environmentally friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-grown flowers: 1) Water replaces soil, with no odor, clean and hygienic. 2) No need to repot or loosen the soil, which reduces the labor of growing flowers. 3) Lightweight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4) Flexible material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor display. 5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water, with a high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can remain stable above 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Many years of practice has proven that foliage plants are the first choice for home hydroponic flowers, such as Aglaonema modestum, Dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, Alocasia, pothos, lucky bamboo, asparagus fern, spider plant, aloe, inch plant (Tradescantia), Tradescantia zebrina, coleus, Dracaena fragrans, Chamaedorea elegans, hibiscus, and fuchsia, etc. In addition, scarlet sage, azalea, camellia, cyclamen, amaryllis, calla lily, crown of thorns, kalanchoe, and hyacinth, among other flowering plants, give good results when grown hydroponically. Boston fern, pot marigold, petunia, and Excoecaria cochinchinensis have a low survival rate when grown as hydroponic flowers.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. 1) Containers. Any attractive container that can hold water will do. It is best to use transparent containers, such as beverage bottles (cut off the narrow neck), wine glasses, teacups, vases, fish tanks, etc.; the opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, and material of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flowers. It is best to wash and disinfect them before use. 2) Bedding materials. Bedding materials are often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as pebbles, yellow sand, perlite, etc. Small pebbles of elegant appearance and varied shapes are best. They should also be washed and disinfected before use.

3. Timing for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies with flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C-28°C, foliage plants can be grown hydroponically in all four seasons. Flowering plants are best grown hydroponically when the first flower bud is about to open; for example, cyclamen, hyacinth, azalea, and camellia are often grown hydroponically in early January, so that the full bloom period falls during the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.

4. Obtaining and treating hydroponic materials. 1) Root-washing method. Select a potted plant with a full shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases, remove it from the pot and soil, wash the soil off the roots with water close to room temperature, and cut off any rotten and aged roots (for those with dense fibrous roots, about 1/3 may be cut off, but avoid injuring new roots), then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes (this both sterilizes and disinfects and can promote new root growth), after which hydroponic cultivation can be carried out. This method is mostly used for larger plants and flowers that are difficult to root. 2) Water-cutting method. Select current-year sturdy, pest-free semi-lignified branches, cut them off and insert them in water for hydroponic cultivation. The cutting position is often two or three millimeters below a stem node; the cut should be trimmed smooth with a sharp knife (previously wiped and disinfected with white liquor), and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a transparent container with a black plastic bag to help the cuttings root. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water for hydroponics and changing the water. 1) Water. Mountain spring water is best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, non-settling, and contains many trace elements necessary for plant growth. Cooled boiled water is second best. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities, settles easily, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial to flower growth. 2) Changing the water. Because of the plant's normal growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponics the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed, and at the same time the root system produces mucus, so the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning; much of the nutrient solution added to the water has also been absorbed by the plant, and too much residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. The change in water quality is directly related to the temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growing seasons for flowers, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change it once every 4-6 days; in winter, change it about once every 15-20 days. Each time you change the water, wash off the mucus on the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The height of the added water should be level with the root collar; too deep easily causes oxygen deficiency and root rot, while too shallow easily causes the roots to lack water and affects growth.

6. Adding hydroponic nutrient solution. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, after half a month of hydroponics, new roots will begin to form. Along with the growth of the flower plant, nutrient solution must be continuously added in conjunction with changing the water. Different types of flower nutrient solutions can be purchased on the market as needed. Note the following: 1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies with different flower species, so the instructions should be read carefully. 2) Each type of special nutrient solution must be used only for its intended purpose, to avoid mismatching. For example, if orchid nutrient solution is applied to clivia, the clivia will fail to bloom or bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period; simply changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also gives good results, such as with pothos and Dieffenbachia.

Techniques for Preventing and Controlling Pests and Diseases of Hydroponic Flowers

Because of the special nature of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides for insect control, nor to use large doses of fungicides for sterilization. Although these chemicals can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment at the same time.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible flowers with sturdy plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be caught by hand or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur infrequently in hydroponic flowers; only a few leaves may show brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular round wet spots, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once discovered, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so that it does not spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Stuffily hot high-temperature weather in summer, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sunburn, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, nutrient solution concentration being too high, or an inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry, and the lower leaves to yellow and fall. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, root rot disease is likely to occur, and this is even more a common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with stem separation and root rot be cared for? Due to improper management, or root rot from oxygen deficiency, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves yellowing and falling in large numbers, causing the lower end to become separated and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers that have suffered stem separation and root rot, the plant renewal method can be used: cut off the still-healthy upper branch 3 cm below a stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the lower branch that has become separated does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, at which point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, Cordyline fruticosa 'Rainbow', and Syngonium podophyllum can all use this method.

Complete Home Hydroponic Flower Manual

Four Methods to Obtain Hydroponic Plants

1. Remove flowers grown in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, from their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and switch them to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings and insert them directly into still water; after they root, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) as they grow, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plant and pineapple; these small plantlets can be picked off and directly grown hydroponically.

4. For flowers that produce many tiller buds, such as clivia and bromeliads, the method of peeling off rooted tiller buds can be used for hydroponics.

How to Prepare Hydroponic Nutrient Solution

Home static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must meet three basic conditions:

1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Choose a leak-proof, bottom-hole-free cultivation container that matches the size and style of the hydroponic flower.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (suitable ratio) and the full range of mineral nutrients essential for flower and plant growth. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macroelements: calcium nitrate 0.27 g, potassium nitrate 0.13 g, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 g, magnesium sulfate 0.13 g.

(2) Trace elements: disodium edetate 8.0 mg, ferrous sulfate 5.0 mg, manganese sulfate 1.4 mg, boric acid 2.0 mg, zinc sulfate 0.07 mg, copper sulfate 0.04 mg, sodium molybdate 0.09 mg. (3) Purified water: 1 liter (1000 milliliters).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is <0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a vessel, pour in the hydroponic nutrient solution, and cultivate them, and they become a static hydroponic flower with a distinctive charm.

When preparing the nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water. Of course, ordinary drinking tap water can also be used to prepare the nutrient solution. Both have been strictly treated, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that purified water has even fewer impurities and pathogens, and basically contains no nutrient elements essential to plants, whereas tap water, as the composition of the water source changes, contains nutrient elements in unstable amounts. Therefore, the nutrient solution prepared with purified water has a stable and consistent composition, while the nutrient solution prepared with tap water has an unstable composition.

Liquid chlorine is used when disinfecting tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Let out the tap water and store it in a fairly wide-mouthed bucket for a few days, stirring it with a wooden stick several times to remove the chlorine. If water is urgently needed for changing the water, you can add 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as hypo) to 10 kilograms of tap water and stir evenly, which can also achieve the effect of removing chlorine.

Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance of alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics either. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can help the flowers absorb trace elements, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, grow normally, and keep the leaves emerald green.

How to Carry Out Foliar Fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under conditions of root oxygen deficiency, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of the flowers. To improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves. A fine-hole sprayer should be used, and as far as possible the fertilizer solution should not be allowed to run off; the undersides of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, and spray twice during the growing period, and the hydroponic flowers will grow luxuriant branches and leaves. For flowers suitable both for foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as Spathiphyllum, Begonia semperflorens, Begonia maculata, and calla lily, a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves once a week from the bud stage until the flowers open.

Temperature Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one method of flower cultivation; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers and plants used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests, or from tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded ravine areas, and belong to non-cold-tolerant flower plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer cold damage, with scorched leaf edges, yellowing old leaves, and wilting and falling, and under static hydroponic conditions the same phenomenon will also occur. Some flowers are relatively cold-tolerant, such as English ivy, periwinkle, and Senecio, which grow normally at temperatures of 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, the leaves of some flowers lose their luster, growth becomes sluggish, and scorched brown spots appear on the leaf margins, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperatures, such as Begonia maculata, Begonia semperflorens, and coleus. Above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics; of course, this is also related to the fact that the dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as the temperature rises. Keeping the temperature at 15°C to 28°C is suitable for various static hydroponic flowers. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each type of flower and creating a suitable temperature condition for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of these flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growing period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light requirements can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis and cannot accumulate enough nutrients, so growth is poor. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaves in a low-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light that is not exposed to strong direct light can such flowers maintain their leaf color and luster.

Plants grow toward light, so the direction in which flowers are placed should be rotated at regular intervals. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessel and changing the nutrient solution; rotate the flower, after its roots have been washed, 180 degrees relative to its original orientation and continue cultivating it, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and growing upward.

Humid Environment and Good Ventilation

Foliage flowers mostly originate from warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment for them to grow well. A simple method is to spray water on the leaves of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed mist from dampening furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface without running off. For the leaves of flowers that are relatively firm and have a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which both increases the humidity of the leaf surface and removes dust from the leaves. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin of clean water can be placed beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can likewise increase the environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. Static hydroponic flowers are displayed indoors; if doors and windows are tightly closed and the air is turbid, this is unfavorable to their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home without opening doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, and the dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, producing phenomena such as leaves yellowing and falling and new shoots becoming thin and shriveled. The place where hydroponic flowers are displayed should have doors and windows opened at regular intervals to create air convection, letting fresh outside air enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves, and dry, withered leaf tips. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing the dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out in a timely manner; this is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places where large hydroponic flowers are displayed especially need to do this work well.

Prevention and Control of Pests and Diseases in Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponics breaks free from infection by soil-borne pests and diseases, but it does not grow in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, so it can still be harmed by pests and diseases in the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on the flowers, and when these hatch into larvae, they will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from their pots and had their roots washed before being converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, and larvae; if these are not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the special nature of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides for insect control, nor to use large doses of fungicides for sterilization. Although these chemicals can kill insects and sterilize, they also pollute the environment at the same time.

Prevention should be the main approach to possible pests and diseases of hydroponic flowers. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as far as possible flowers with sturdy plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, they can be caught by hand or washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases occur infrequently in hydroponic flowers; only a few leaves may show brown lesions, shriveled necrosis, or irregular round wet spots, which are formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once discovered, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned so that it does not spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by infection by pathogens; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Stuffily hot high-temperature weather in summer, cold winters, dry climates, scorching sunburn, poorly ventilated environments, excessive shading, nutrient solution concentration being too high, or an inability to absorb it in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry, and the lower leaves to yellow and fall. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, root rot disease is likely to occur, and this is even more a common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with stem separation and root rot be cared for? Due to improper management, or root rot from oxygen deficiency, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers may develop leaf spot disease, with leaves yellowing and falling in large numbers, causing the lower end to become separated and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers that have suffered stem separation and root rot, the plant renewal method can be used: cut off the still-healthy upper branch 3 cm below a stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. As long as the lower branch that has become separated does not rot, it can also sprout new buds at the stem node, at which point it can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, Cordyline fruticosa 'Rainbow', and Syngonium podophyllum can all use this method.

How Many Hydroponic Flowers Is Appropriate to Display

Growing hydroponic flowers indoors can help regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air, so displaying a few plants appropriately is beneficial. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are displayed, this will cause flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night. So how many flowers is appropriate to place indoors? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered appropriate, calculated by room area, to plant one or two kinds of flowers per 10 square meters. By this standard, for a room of 50 square meters to 60 square meters, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of various sizes can both satisfy viewing and avoid flowers competing with people for oxygen at night.

How to Choose Hydroponic Flower Materials in Winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their clean, beautiful, and easy-to-care-for characteristics. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "musts":

First, you must choose flower types suitable for hydroponics. If you buy types unsuitable for hydroponics and grow them in water, before long they will gradually die because their roots rot. Aquatic plants, wetland plants, and a group of relatively drought-intolerant terrestrial plants are all fairly suitable for hydroponics, such as umbrella plant, Syngonium podophyllum, pothos, Philodendron, Tradescantia zebrina, and lucky bamboo.

Second, you must choose flower types with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need relatively high temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to overwinter safely in ordinary homes, being prone to cold damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with just a little cold protection include Monstera deliciosa, Tradescantia pallida, aloe, spider plant, umbrella plant, Chamaedorea elegans, and Rhapis excelsa.

Third, you must choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-grown flowers out of the soil, wash the soil off the roots, and immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials look normal, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so you must distinguish carefully when purchasing. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, you must choose sturdy plants free of pests and diseases. Plants with spirited, upright branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are conducive to displaying the ornamental effect that the flowers should have.

Advantages of Hydroponics

1. Simple Daily Management

The hydroponic flowers of "Hydroponic Flower King" are very simple to manage on a daily basis. Aside from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, they need no special care. Ordinarily, you only need to spray water on the leaves in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaves, just wipe them with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. This saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering daily, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and Fashionable

Because hydroponic flowers have completely broken away from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not, like soil-grown flowers, pollute our living environment with pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil, making our homes safer, cleaner, and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are free from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels, and materials to plant them. Not only can we appreciate the flowers and leaves, but we can also appreciate the usually unseen process of root growth and their myriad forms of beauty, making it very neat and fashionable.

3. Many Applicable Varieties, Technology Easy to Master and Operate

Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil-grown environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to be cultivated through a planting basket to produce water roots, nor does it need the earlier computer or electric-field mutagenesis. It only requires very simple technical treatment, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorous, lush hydroponic flowers, which greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives products greater profit margins, and increases their competitiveness in the market; at the same time, because production costs are lower, more people can enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because no planting basket is used, hydroponic flowers become even more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater will change the concentration and pH value of the nutrient solution, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation. In this way, some light-loving plants are more difficult to grow hydroponically indoors at home, but the commonly seen shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically, and the number of tested varieties has currently reached nearly four hundred. If you have a sunlight or artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be grown hydroponically, only with differing degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and Environmentally Friendly, Can Keep Flowers and Fish Together

The "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to the flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term keeping, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants, with very good results as well. Practice has proven that it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, mosquitoes and insects are not likely to breed in the nutrient solution, and if when changing the water you pour the discarded nutrient solution into the soil-grown potted flowers in your home, there will be an even more unexpected surprise. Facts have proven that the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and environmentally friendly nutrient solution, with very obvious effects.

Selection of Hydroponic Flower Types

The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions of water, oxygen, nutrients, light, and temperature. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as light and temperature are suitable and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in a timely manner, the flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to the relationship between the ecological habits and tissue structure of flowers, different flowers have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have air-conducting tissue in their bodies; the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be sent through the air-conducting tissue to the root system for respiration. Some flowers have aerial roots at the stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen the plant needs from the air. Some flowers, although they have neither air-conducting tissue nor aerial roots for absorbing oxygen, are nevertheless very well adapted to hydroponic conditions. But for some flowers, the oxygen content in the water cannot meet the needs of their normal growth and development, so such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, you must choose flower types that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and never carry out cultivation blindly, so as to avoid failure in hydroponics.

Flower Types Adapted to Hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When propagated by water cuttings, most can root in a relatively short time and grow rapidly, quickly forming a plant shape with a certain ornamental value. After soil-grown plants are washed with water, most of their existing roots can adapt to the hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers adapted to hydroponics include pothos, Aglaonema modestum, Dieffenbachia, Aglaonema 'Silver King', Aglaonema 'Golden Queen', clustered Philodendron, mini Monstera deliciosa, Monstera deliciosa, Spathiphyllum, green emerald (Philodendron), Philodendron, Philodendron panduriforme, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Syngonium podophyllum, Alocasia, anthurium, and emerald gem.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as Tradescantia pallida, Tradescantia spathacea, Lophatherum gracile, and Tradescantia zebrina, all of which can root and grow rapidly when grown as water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as aloe, Aloe arborescens, Haworthia fasciata, spider plant, Cordyline fruticosa, Dracaena, Dracaena marginata, Sansevieria, Agave, lucky bamboo with yellow edges, sea onion, Dieffenbachia with silver edges, and Ophiopogon with silver edges.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively well adapted to hydroponic conditions, such as Aeonium, Aeonium 'Fur Elise', Pachyphytum, Graptopetalum, and Kalanchoe.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics include Aucuba, umbrella plant, coleus, Gynura aurantiaca, blue pine, Begonia maculata, Begonia 'Ox Ear', green emerald, clivia, Paphiopedilum, croton, Senecio cineraria, Senecio, Pereskia, triangle bamboo, pineapple, Cryptanthus, Chloranthus, Trachelospermum, Euphorbia, Euphorbia 'Rainbow Cloud', variegated periwinkle, Excoecaria cochinchinensis, Senecio, English ivy, common ivy, Rhapis excelsa, and Chamaedorea elegans, etc.

When choosing hydroponic flower types, in addition to considering whether they can adapt to hydroponic conditions, you should also note the following factors:

Although some flowers are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high overwintering temperature requirements. For example, some species in the Dieffenbachia genus and flowers such as croton require an overwintering temperature above 15°C; pothos, Syngonium podophyllum, lucky bamboo with yellow edges, and Dracaena species also require an overwintering temperature above 10°C. For rooms that are heated in winter, this of course poses no problem, but for most households, it is still very difficult to let these flowers safely pass through the cold winter. Although some flowers will not cause the death of the entire plant after overwintering, because of the effects of low-temperature cold damage, the leaves of the plant will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, yellow, and have scorched leaf tips or leaf edges, or new scorched spots will appear on the leaves, even causing a large number of leaves to drop or part of the branches and leaves to die, thereby losing their ornamental value. So when there is no stable condition for keeping them indoors, you must pay attention to choosing flower types with relatively strong cold resistance. Flowers suitable for hydroponics in ordinary households include:

Flowers with Strong Cold Resistance

Plants such as Rohdea japonica, star jasmine, bamboo palm, agave, aucuba, Graptopetalum paraguayense, sea onion, and variegated lilyturf can withstand low temperatures of around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

Plants such as Monstera deliciosa, purple-heart spiderwort, bamboo, aloe, spider plant, silver jade plant, umbrella plant, purple velvet plant, dusty miller, chloranthus, crown of thorns, variegated periwinkle, English ivy, and small potted coconut palm can overwinter safely with only slight protection.

Of course, some flowers such as red emerald philodendron, green emerald philodendron, arrowhead plant, pothos, snake plant, and croton, although relatively difficult to overwinter safely, are easy to obtain, grow quickly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation when spring arrives.

The issue of shade tolerance

Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower species that prefer semi-shade or tolerate semi-shade. At the same time, even shade-preferring or semi-shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, croton, purple-heart spiderwort, and inch plant need ample scattered light, but peace lily, giant white phildendron, Guangdong evergreen, and Aglaonema 'Silver King' all have extremely strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different lighting conditions within a room vary, suitable flower species should be selected according to the light conditions of the placement location, to ensure normal growth of the flowers and maintain good ornamental quality. When light is insufficient, it causes the branches and leaves of the plant to grow leggy, the stems to become thin, the internodes to become longer, the leaves to become smaller and deformed, to lose green color and their proper luster, and leaves with colored stripes to fade, or even produce a large number of fallen leaves, thereby seriously affecting the ornamental quality of the flowers.

Hydroponic spider plant technique

Spider plant, with fresh green leaf color and orchid-like leaf shape, is fresh and elegant, and is a common household foliage flower that people love. In addition, it has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layer or double-layer. For a single-layer bottle, take a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle and plant the spider plant in it. For a double-layer bottle, take a plastic sieve as the upper layer, and the lower-layer bottle is a bottomless container; plant the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve and let the spider plant roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Remove the potted or field-grown spider plant from the pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves, diseased and pest-damaged leaves), and keep healthy leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the prepared spider plant into the bottle, tie the bottle mouth tightly with sponge and insert a plastic straw for water supply. Let the spider plant stand upright, put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the bottle, and let the spider plant roots soak in the water to grow. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on the plastic sieve, let the roots pass through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle, put ceramic material or gravel (large particles) in the sieve, let the spider plant stand upright, and put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the lower bottle. After potting is completed, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For single-layer container bottle cultivation, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, inputting water through the straw until the water is full. For double-layer bottles, change the water once a week; when changing water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container bottle clean, put in clean water and flower nutrient solution, and then place the plastic sieve on the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: While adding water and changing water, add flower nutrient solution at the same time; for foliar feeding, spray the branches and leaves once every 3 days with diluted flower nutrient solution.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with all-purpose powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: Spider plant blooms half a year after potting. When blooming, do not spray water on the flowers, to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers fade, cut the flowers from the branch tips to promote reflowering.

The outstanding choice for static hydroponics

Plants of the Araceae family have 105 genera and more than 2500 species, originating in tropical Asia and arising in waters or swamps in forest areas. Through a long historical evolution, the vast majority have now developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, Alocasia, etc. Although the plants of the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves wetland species, some have aerial roots, some easily produce adventitious roots, and some easily develop aerenchyma under stressful environments.
For terrestrial plants in static hydroponics, root respiration is in a severe state of oxygen deficiency. The prerequisite for success is correctly selecting the plant species, that is, it has a close kinship relationship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have a close kinship relationship with aquatic plants, specifically as follows:
1. Araceae plants evolved and developed centered on aquatic genetic genes. The new Engler system holds that the most primitive genus in Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or wetland evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), and first arose in aquatic environments. Pistia is almost distributed across the freshwater waters of all major continents of the Old and New Worlds. It is the most evolved monotypic genus in Araceae, a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easy to migrate and spread, with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus gramineus, water arum, and taro.
The evolved Pistia, as an aquatic plant, is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus, but a dialectical “negation of the negation,” a repetition on a higher basis. Although the vast majority of species in Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, phenomenally forming a “negation” of the aquatic ancestor. And finally transforming into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia, this return is another “negation,” which is the dialectical law of the “negation of the negation.” This shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are the outstanding choice for static hydroponics.
2. Araceae belongs to Arales, which has only two families; the other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, and Lemnaceae are floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that Araceae and aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor and have an extremely close kinship relationship with each other.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolve forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, following an approximately spiral curve.
3. The relationship of Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system holds that Arales evolved from Liliales, and that a few aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel developmental relationship with the marsh-dwelling Najadales. The Takhtajan system holds that Arales shares a common ancestor (primitive lily types) with Arecales and Commelinales, and can be traced further back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system holds that Arales has a close kinship relationship with Pandanales and Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems, it can be inferred that Arales has kinship relatedness with Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward centered on aquatic genetic genes, share a common ancestor with aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship relatedness with Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants the outstanding choice for static hydroponics.

Judging and handling root rot in hydroponics

During hydroponic cultivation, due to management and other reasons, plants often suffer root rot. For example, excessively low temperature, overly concentrated fertilizer, and diseases can all cause root rot, and root rot will deteriorate water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted. Second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also have rotted and deteriorated. Third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system turns yellow and changes color, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root crown area, and the epidermis will tear off extremely easily, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, it should be cut off in time. Generally, root rot gradually spreads upward from the root tip. After pruning, continue until normal roots are reached. After changing the water, observe carefully; if root rot continues to appear, handle it promptly.

Simple hydroponic facilities -- bottles and jars and cultivation management

Using waste containers such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, white polystyrene hard foam boxes (cases), etc., with slight preparation, they can become hydroponic carriers of different sizes and shapes. This can suit local conditions, make full use of materials, and green the surrounding environment, with a delightful feeling of returning to nature.

1. Bottles and jars

1. Such as metal beverage cans, glass or plastic wide-mouth bottles, paper foil-lined square beverage boxes, etc. These were originally used to hold liquids; as long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be set aside as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cup: According to the size of the mouth of the selected container, choose a plastic cold drink cup that fits just about 1/3 into the mouth, as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a “well”-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup so that roots can extend through the bottom of the cup into the nutrient solution, while the plant's anchoring material does not leak out. The opening also serves a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8×12 cm, used for clothing lining. Gently rinse off the soil from the seedling to be hydroponically grown or the purchased potted flower with soil, without damaging the roots. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (scraps cut from shoulder pads for jackets or sofa and chair cushions, etc.), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as insulation material, some yellow, some yellow with white) to thicken the roll, so that it can fit exactly into the plastic planting cup to anchor the plant. If none of the above items are available, floral foam can also be properly cut to serve as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapping the root system together with the exposed roots into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution surface should maintain a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to the success or failure of hydroponics. With the aid of the capillary absorption of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the root system. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance from the liquid surface to the bottom of the planting cup can be somewhat larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material to prevent direct sunlight from breeding algae, which would compete with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent a large rise in liquid temperature caused by sun exposure, it is best to provide shading measures or place it where sunlight cannot directly shine.

2. Boxes and cases

1. Box body: Usually white rigid polystyrene foam boxes used for packaging and shockproofing, or corrugated cardboard boxes or wooden boxes of a certain strength, etc., can all be used. Generally about 35×25×15 cm to 60×40×16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, they can be leveled with wooden boards or foam boards. Line the inside of the box with black agricultural film to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is opaque, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.

2. Top cover: The top cover also serves the function of a planting board. Find a polystyrene foam board the same area as the box, about 2.5 cm thick, to serve as the top cover and planting board. Cut a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter in the board. As with bottles and jars, it is enough if the selected plastic cold drink cup can be placed in it while still exposing about 1/2 of the cup height. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6 to 16 holes. In addition, on the side of the top cover, near the inner side of the box body, cut a small hole 2 cm in diameter for routine observation of the nutrient solution level and addition of nutrient solution.

3. Planting cup: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a polystyrene foam board 2.5 to 3 cm thick and 2.5 to 3 cm smaller on all four sides than the net area inside the box as the floating board. Regularly cut some small holes 1 to 2 cm in diameter on it to increase the air content of the floating board and facilitate roots extending into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm dry thickness), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25 to 50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board, to absorb nutrient solution. If these materials really cannot be obtained, medical sterilized absorbent gauze can also be used as a substitute. The absorbent cotton layer area should extend about 6 cm beyond all four sides of the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely from all four sides of the floating board (like an apron), immersing into the nutrient solution to absorb it, thereby ensuring that a moist layer with nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant roots can extend freely on the floating board and have more direct contact with air. Another part of the roots can still extend through the four sides of the floating board, or from the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of general static hydroponics, which cannot circulate nutrient solution or oxygenate it.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. Just after planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward. The highest liquid level must leave a certain space in the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3 to 5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or when there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor, or pathogenic infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, up to a complete replacement.

Requirements of hydroponic flowers for a humid environment and good ventilation

The original habitats of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray water on the flower leaves (to prevent the sprayed water mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors to do this, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets stick to the leaf surface without flowing down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as Monstera deliciosa and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin filled with clean water can be placed beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can also increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. If static hydroponic flowers are placed indoors with doors and windows tightly closed and the air turbid, it is unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, the room does not open doors and windows, and some even draw the curtains. In such a harsh environment, hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and growth becomes worse and worse, producing yellowing and falling leaves and weak, shriveled new shoots. The place where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, allowing fresh outside air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with relatively thin leaves. Air-conditioned rooms also lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out in a timely manner; this is beneficial to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers displayed especially need to do this work well.

Light requirements of hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly selects relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis and cannot accumulate enough nutrients, resulting in poor growth. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of the leaf surface in a relatively weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Such flowers can maintain bright leaf color only in an environment with relatively ample light that is not exposed to strong direct light.

Plant growth has phototropism, so the orientation of placed flowers should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined with cleaning the vessels and changing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the roots, turn the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and upward.

How hydroponic flowers overwinter safely

How hydroponic flowers overwinter

Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8°C, and tissues will become necrotic below 0°C. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5°C, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely. In southern China, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5°C. If there are several days of extreme low-temperature weather, this can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate. In the north, because most indoors have heating, safe overwintering of hydroponic flowers can also be satisfied.

Why hydroponic flowers need water changes

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer. At the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more numerous. Therefore, after a period of growth, hydroponic flowers need to be given fresh nutrient solution. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilization and also need to change soil once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water-change interval should be shorter during the vigorous growing spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

Hydroponic method for cyclamen

Growing cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method frees cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can give blooming cyclamen plants multiple cultivation and application forms. As soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, water culture of cyclamen is not difficult. First, you need to choose a satisfactory cyclamen potted flower and prepare a container for hydroponically growing cyclamen. Once the preparation work is complete, you can begin making hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, the purchased cyclamen potted flower should be turned out of the pot together with the substrate (flower soil), placed under a faucet and rinsed clean with a relatively gentle stream of water. The plant together with the substrate can also be placed in a basin of water and the substrate rinsed off in the water, then rinsed clean with tap water. Note that throughout the entire process of removing the substrate, the movements must be gentle, and try as much as possible to avoid damaging the cyclamen root system. The rinsed cyclamen plant can then be placed in the pre-prepared hydroponic container, water added, and a beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is made.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer of any kind needs to be added to the water for cultivating cyclamen. The nutrients in the cyclamen corm can allow the cyclamen plant to maintain normal growth and flowering for 4-6 weeks. At the same time, the water surface height should be kept below the corm. Generally, according to the evaporation of water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water surface height.

In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one factor. To make hydroponic cyclamen distinctive and full of personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the combination method of cyclamen plants. This all depends on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Bare-root hydroponic method for Hoya

Hoya has traditionally been soil-cultivated. Now, through bare-root hydroponic experiments, it has the following characteristics: 1) labor-saving; 2) hygienic; 3) few pests and diseases; 4) simple management; 5) long flowering period; 6) roots, leaves, and flowers can all be enjoyed.

The bare-root hydroponic method is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-grown Hoya, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and diseased and pest-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), put a few beautiful river stones at the bottom of the bottle, move the treated Hoya seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the roots, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: 1. Spray the leaves with clean water once a day; after one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days. 2. Change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water. 3. One month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the Hoya, half a milliliter each time, and then inject once a month to promote growth, flowering, and prolong the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers fade, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution by injection, and it can bloom again.

There is a big difference between flower hydroponics and water culture

In recent years, some water-cultured and hydroponic flowers have been favored by people because they are fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and easy to combine. On the surface, the cultivation forms of water-cultured and hydroponic flowers are the same, namely liquid maintenance, so many people confuse the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water culture generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients. Their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water and fix it in place, with no need to supply nutrients. Flowers suitable for water culture mainly include narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, lucky bamboo, etc. To make water-cultured flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom beautifully, the key is to select fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrients needed for their growth process. Second, water should be changed frequently, insisting on changing water once every 2 to 3 days (for lucky bamboo, change water once every 7 to 10 days), to maintain sufficient oxygen content in the water and improve root activity. Third, sufficient sunlight should be maintained to allow healthy growth.

Hydroponic flowers, by contrast, have the plant roots fixed on the cover board or floating board of a flower pot, with the root system soaked in water, and the water must be equipped with reasonable inorganic nutrients. Therefore, flower hydroponics is also called nutrient solution culture. Flowers suitable for hydroponics have plant habits and internal structures suitable for normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include clivia, spider plant, Christmas cactus, Brazilian wood, evergreen, clustered taro, Monstera deliciosa, Graptopetalum paraguayense, inch plant, and kalanchoe.

Northeastern University in China, using bioengineering mutation technology, after 8 years of effort, has developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; both cacti and succulents, and flowering flowers such as clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, anthurium, and amaryllis, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. Some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as jewel orchid, have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

In truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the root traits have already changed. The root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertically growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-cultured plants, which are distributed in a network. After aquatic mutation, the plant's aquatic root genes are expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants will become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches will be more tender than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids, or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat chlorides and sulfides in the water. For hydroponic flowers, add or replace the nutrient solution once a week, and note to keep the pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

Brief introduction to flower hydroponic techniques

Flower hydroponics is a common type of soilless cultivation. There are many methods; several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: Its characteristics are that the plant root system is fully or partially immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; and the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: The nutrient film technique was developed from the plastic bag technique. An appropriate amount of nutrient solution is put into a plastic bag to cultivate plants. On this basis, further improvements were made: the plastic bag was changed to plastic film and laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; and the plastic film is white outside and black inside to wrap the plant, forming an internal dark space.

The advantages are: it better solves the root system's demand for oxygen for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, with low cost; plants grow quickly, are easy to manage, and it is suitable for large-scale production.

Aeroponics technique: After the nutrient solution is atomized, it is sprayed around the plant root system. The mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the roots. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient, and oxygen supply, and the plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used during cuttings propagation.

Glass bottle hydroponic technique: For the aqueous solution, a glass canning jar can be used. Wrap the surroundings of the bottle with black plastic film, or coat it fully with black paint, or paste a layer of black paper, to the extent that the inside of the bottle is lightproof. Shading is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, wrap a layer of white paper around the outside of the black bottle to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, cut a hole in the middle, clamp the plant, cover the bottle cap, and the top of the cap should also be black. Inject nutrient solution into the bottle, not too full; leave a gap to give the plant oxygen for respiration. If it is water propagation to promote rooting, then no nutrient solution is needed; just add water, and after roots grow, switch to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Changing solution: For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For mature flowers, change once a week during the vigorous summer growth season, and once every 1 to 2 weeks during the non-growing season.

Aeration: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening to let the root system be completely exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, it can go more than 1 month continuously without aeration.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should often be added to the bottle to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: Fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions permit, it can be prepared by oneself. The formulas are as follows:

Formula 1: (pH 6-6.5)

Potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Formula 2: (pH 6-6.5)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Preparation method of trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, copper dichloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 mL water, then make up to 1000 mL.

Multiple hydroponic methods for flowers

1. Water cutting method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed. Cut part of the stem or branch from a selected mother flower plant, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it roots, sprouts, and grows into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below the node, and the cut surface should be flat, with no longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots and insert them into water. Pothos, lucky bamboo, etc. are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

2. Root washing method: Select flowers with ornamental value, robust growth, and already formed by soil cultivation (or other media cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system, and switch to hydroponics. When washing roots, it is best to use running water. Plant the washed flowers in a prepared vessel, and inject tap water that covers 2/3-1/2 of the root system. At first, change the clean water once a day, and wash the roots and vessel at the same time. After a week, reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flowers grow new roots in the water, it indicates they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and water can be changed once every 7-10 days, or even longer.

3. Tiller stripping method: Suitable for flowers with strong tillering ability, such as clivia and bromeliads. The method is simple and the survival rate is high. Select a relatively large tiller, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, strip the tiller from the mother plant by hand or with a sharp blade (protect the roots of the tiller), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate by hydroponics.

4. Runner plantlet removal method: Some flowers produce runners during growth, and the runners bear one to many small plantlets. Most of the small plantlets carry a small amount of fully developed roots, such as spider plant and hanging bromeliad, both of which have this characteristic. Taking advantage of this characteristic of the flowers, remove the formed small plantlets for hydroponics, which is very simple and convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera deliciosa, clivia, pothos, Tillandsia, Guangdong evergreen, purple-backed oyster plant, lucky bamboo, spider plant, and bulbous flowers such as tulip, lily, hyacinth, amaryllis, and gladiolus.

Guide to overcoming difficulties in summer care of hydroponic flowers

1. Where are the difficulties in getting hydroponic flowers through the summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants cultivated in non-solid media (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution added). At present, most household hydroponic flowers are static water cultivation, with dissolved oxygen below 1 mg/L, and the flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism becomes vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and water quality deteriorates, creating many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers. This may cause root rot, wilting of branches and leaves, and even death of the entire flower plant. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing extreme heat and high temperatures, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers safely pass the summer.

Water cultivation of ribbon grass

2. How can the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution be increased?

Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, summarized into two categories: chemical methods and physical methods. The following are several effective methods that are easy to operate.

1. Increase the frequency of changing the nutrient solution

Changing the nutrient solution is the simplest way to increase dissolved oxygen. According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, and can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of flowers.

For flowers that have already grown water roots, it is advisable to change the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, and no more than 7 days. When changing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorders in the flower root system.

When changing the solution, patiently rinse the root system with clean water, remove withered roots and rotten roots, and cut the aged roots shorter to promote new root growth.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes turbid, or mosquito eggs or larvae breed in it, new nutrient solution should be changed immediately.

2. Vibration for oxygen enrichment

For hydroponic flowers in relatively small vessels, as long as the root system is clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to fix the flower with one hand and hold the vessel with the other hand, gently shaking more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

For hydroponic flowers with turbid nutrient solution or poorly developed root systems, the vibration oxygen enrichment method is not suitable, and the nutrient solution must be completely replaced.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

According to measurements, the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/L, while in static water it is only 1 mg/L. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is the flower cultivation vessel, with a micro circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline; during operation, the nutrient solution circulates and flows within the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, the root system maintains a certain liquid level. Cultivating with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly letting hydroponic flowers soak in an “oxygen bar,” and their growth is obviously better than with static hydroponics.

For the automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers, cleaning and solution changing are generally done once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerate the vessel

If there is also a tank of ornamental fish beside the hydroponic flowers, you can use the spare air outlet pipe of the fish tank air pump, connect a rubber tube, put the sand head into the static hydroponic flower vessel to aerate (the airflow should not be too strong, to avoid splashing the nutrient solution out), and use the flow of air to increase oxygen; the effect is also quite good.

3. Where are hydroponic flowers suitable for placement in summer?

Answer: The flower materials selected for hydroponic flowers are mostly shade-tolerant foliage flowers and flowers with both foliage and flower appeal. Such as arrowhead plant, white jade evergreen, Spathiphyllum, anthurium, bromeliads, etc. These flowers like warmth and humidity, slightly tolerate shade, and avoid high temperature and dry heat. “Hydroponics” only changes the cultivation form; it cannot change their growth habits and the environmental factors they need. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in an environment with bright light, slightly higher humidity, relatively cool temperatures, and good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not make it too shady, lest flower photosynthesis be hindered, growth weaken, stem nodes elongate, and leaf texture become thinner. This causes the leaves of flowers with color blocks and colored patterns to lose their luster.

4. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly in front of an air conditioner vent. Too fast an airflow will damage the branches and leaves, ranging from curled leaves in mild cases to scorched edges and withering in severe cases. You should also take into account that flowers require a higher temperature during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night, the ambient temperature becomes higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner is running, which is unfavorable for the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is running, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaves to increase ambient humidity, and position the flowers somewhat farther from the air conditioner vent. If the day-night temperature difference is not large, there is no problem.

5. What should be done about root rot in hydroponic flowers?

Answer: As the temperature rises steadily, the water temperature also rises, microbial growth accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution so that the dissolved concentration becomes too high can also cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in Dracaena (Cordyline) of the Liliaceae family, such as Cordyline fruticosa, Dracaena marginata (fine-leaved dragon tree), and Dracaena concinna.

The following methods can help root-rotted flowers recover their growth:

(1) Remove all rotted roots. If the stem has also been infected, use a sharp knife to cut away the infected portion.

(2) Soak the trimmed flowers in a 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes to sterilize them.

(3) Take out the soaked flowers and rinse them under running water.

(4) Place the cleaned flowers back into the original container and grow them in clean water (the container should be washed clean).

(5) Change the water once every 1-2 days, using only clean water without adding nutrient solution. If the water is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10-15 days of care, new roots can emerge.

(6) Newly emerged roots should still be grown in clean water. Once the temperature stabilizes at 18-25°C, cultivate with nutrient solution.

6. What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growing in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon in the process of cultivating hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, high temperatures, good container transparency, a bright environment, or leaving the nutrient solution unchanged for too long can all trigger massive algae growth. Algae compete with the flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, lowering the quality of the nutrient solution. Algae attached to the flower roots hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, promptly pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly clean the container, brush off the algae attached to the roots, and replace with fresh nutrient solution.

At present, scientists in China are researching a kind of "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae, known as a natural "nemesis" of algae infestation. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, adding a small amount of "algae-eating insects" to the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can prevent algae from growing.

Algal reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to shade the hydroponic flower container and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chances of algae growth.

7. What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special form of cultivation, belonging to a soilless cultivation method in which the flower roots are anchored in water (or a dedicated plant nutrient solution), also known as nutrient solution cultivation.

Hydroponic flowers should be cultivated with a matching plant nutrient solution. However, different flowers require different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If you are cultivating five or six bottles, or even a dozen bottles, of hydroponic flowers of various varieties at the same time, it is unrealistic to buy a matching bottle of plant nutrient solution for each flower. For simplicity, you can choose to use a general-purpose plant nutrient solution.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions usually contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including macroelements and microelements), with a balanced ratio of various elements. The inorganic salts are in ionic form, and the range of application is wide, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages. They are non-toxic and harmless, and the pH value and ion concentration are favorable for nutrient absorption.

There are many types of plant nutrient solutions on the market, with varying quality. It is best to go to a specialty hydroponic flower shop and select products from manufacturers with a good reputation.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution cultivation or only clean water cultivation in summer. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and grow vigorously, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with fine roots that are in a semi-dormant or dormant state at around 30°C, use only clean water cultivation. For example, Spathiphyllum (silver-bracted taro), pothos, mini monstera, red gem, and Philodendron are suited to nutrient solution cultivation to maintain their growth advantage and enhance ornamental quality. Flowers such as Coleus, Begonia maculata (cane begonia), and bromeliads can safely get through summer with just a bottle of clean water.

When mixing the nutrient solution, strictly follow the proportions indicated in the instructions, and do not increase the concentration at will. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers grown hydroponically changes, becoming looser and with larger cells than in soil cultivation. The cell walls become thinner, and the roots directly absorb water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution. Too high a concentration is harmful to the flowers. As long as the concentration of macroelements is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial to flower growth.

In summer, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution once every 5 days.

8. Can soil-cultivated flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Spring and autumn are the most suitable seasons for converting soil-cultivated flowers to hydroponic flowers. At this time, the temperature is around 15-25°C, which is suitable for flower growth, and the flowers adapt easily to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, the following factors should be considered: (1) Select varieties that are relatively closely related to wetland plants. (2) Select flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at around 30°C. Experiments have shown that Syngonium, mini monstera, red gem Philodendron, green giant, and pothos of the Araceae family, as well as some bromeliads, have a relatively high survival rate when converted from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, and their roots rarely rot. After 15-20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from the old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.

When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots must be cleaned off thoroughly. Rinse repeatedly to protect the roots from damage or minimize it. Use a container with a larger capacity for cultivation, change the water once a day. After five days, change the water once every 2-3 days. Once the water roots grow to 5 cm long, cultivate with a low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic method for lucky bamboo

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as wan shou zhu, native to Brazil and western Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. The plant form is slender and upright, without branching. Leaves are long lanceolate, dark green, with sheath-like petioles. Common types include golden-edged lucky bamboo, whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes, and silver-edged lucky bamboo, also known as edged bamboo dracaena, which is compact with silver-white longitudinal stripes along the leaf edges.

Habits

Prefers high temperature and high humidity. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise it will burn the leaves.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, the leaves will scorch. During the growing season, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.

2: Suitable amounts of diffused light are appropriate. When light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic method for Anthurium

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as flamingo flower and lampstand flower

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short, and leaves grow from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. Flower stalks grow from the leaf axils. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, and the spadix is yellow and extends straight.

Habits

Prefers high temperature, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment. Avoid direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C, and it must be kept above 10°C for overwintering.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant; needs heating and warmth in winter.

2: Prefers relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method

Hydroponic method for azalea

The characteristic of soilless cultivation is replacing soil with an artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Forestry Research Institute used a solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azaleas and achieved very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea. The soilless-cultivated plants had a compact crown structure, abundant flowering, large flower diameter, and few pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy manual labor, making it a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.

1. Preparation of the substrate

Azalea roots are very fine and require a loose substrate to facilitate aeration and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part perlite, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder, mixed in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize it with a 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix it evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse it multiple times with clean water. After drying, mix evenly with a 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, cover again with plastic film for one month, and then it is ready for potting.

2. Preparation of the nutrient solution

Azaleas have relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing season, apply light fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying a low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of macroelements: Add 2 g of agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g of magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: Add 20 g of disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, 15 g of ferrous sulfate, 4 g of manganese sulfate, 6 g of boric acid, 0.2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.1 g of copper sulfate, and 0.2 g of ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the stock solution. When using, add 1 milliliter of the trace element stock solution to 1 liter of the standard solution to make the complete element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: Add 1 g of urea, 1 g of monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g of boric acid, and 0.1 g of V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and aeration but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally greater than in soil cultivation, and it is sufficient to keep the substrate moist. At this time, the plant is in bud formation and leaf bud sprouting, requiring a relatively large amount of fertilizer, so apply the complete nutrient solution once about every 10 days. From March until the flower buds open, spray foliar fertilizer once about every 15 days. After flowering, the water requirement is high. In addition to watering every day, spray water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, the fertilizer requirement is also high, so it can be changed to applying nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote sturdy new branches and benefit flower bud differentiation. After the beginning of the dog days, pay attention to keeping the substrate moist and spray water on the leaves; the fertilizer amount can be reduced to applying nutrient solution once about every 20 days. After the weather cools in autumn, gradually increase the amount of fertilizer, apply the complete nutrient solution once about every half month, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote robust growth of flower buds. After the beginning of winter, the physiological activity of azaleas becomes weak, so fertilization is not suitable; simply water appropriately according to the degree of dryness or moisture of the substrate. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic method for bamboo palm

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. Stems are cylindrical, unbranched, with nodes like bamboo, covered with brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm fiber. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, leathery, dark green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 lobes. Dioecious.

Habits

Prefers a warm, shady, humid, and well-ventilated environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. In winter it should be kept above 4°C, and it can tolerate short-term low temperatures of around 0°C.

Propagation

Generally done by division combined with repotting. Select a large, dense clump. First lift the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut as few roots as possible, and keep each divided plant with a certain plant form. Then repot, water thoroughly, place in a semi-shaded, humid location, and spray water on the leaves frequently. After growth resumes, it can be transferred to normal care.

For sowing, after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately after collection. Move them into a greenhouse in winter, and seedlings emerge the following spring.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Tolerates shade, but when light is too weak it tends to produce yellow leaves; when ventilation is poor, parasitic pests breed.

2: During the growing season, water should be sprayed on the leaves frequently.

How to obtain hydroponic material

Potted root-washing is suitable. The root system of bamboo palm is relatively hard in texture and is not prone to rot after hydroponics, but new roots sprout relatively slowly, requiring as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic method for purple velvet plant

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Purple velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick, many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. The leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves being densely covered with purple-red fine hairs like velvet. The purple velvet plant has bright, beautiful, and elegant colors, making it an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Purple velvet plant likes ample sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment. Direct sunlight will cause leaf scorching due to sunburn, but when too shady, the plant will fade and turn green. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10°C.

Propagation

Purple velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, select sturdy branches, cut 10 cm long shoot tips as cuttings, and after planting place them in a shaded, humid place. They can root in 2-3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch them promptly to promote the sprouting of lateral branches.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water, and water roots can grow in just over 10 days. However, at high summer temperatures they are prone to root rot.

2: Purple velvet plant grows rapidly. When the branches reach an appropriate height, pinch them promptly to promote the sprouting of new shoots.

Hydroponic method for parlor palm

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, with a short, small plant form. The stems are slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring patterns. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, pinnately compound, with 20-40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and glossy.

Habits

Prefers a warm, humid, and semi-shaded environment. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30°C. At 13°C it enters dormancy, and the minimum overwintering temperature in winter is 3°C.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn scorched yellow, but when too shady the leaf color will also fade.

2: Parlor palm is most beautiful at a plant height of 30-50 cm. When the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and reduces its ornamental value. When cultivating, small plants can be grown below.

Obtaining hydroponic material

Use the potted root-washing method. After washing with water, new roots can grow within a few days.

Hydroponic method for cactus (ball cactus)

We know that ball cacti are favored for their unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but because traditional cultivation methods are used for ball cacti, there are problems of messiness and difficulty of management. More people lose their beloved plants because they do not manage fertilizer and water well. Now the cultivation of ball cacti has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First, we should select ball cacti with sturdy bodies. The key is to select plants whose lower root-stem portion protrudes downward. Ball cacti grafted onto three-angled sword (Hylocereus) are easier to grow hydroponically.

2: Processing

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots below the ball body, requiring a flat cut. Then rinse the soil attached to the root-stem portion clean with clean water, and dry it in a dry place for 3 days so that the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of appropriate size, or process a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and processed ball cactus at the bottle mouth with floral foam or foam, then add nutrient solution below, with the nutrient solution level just reaching the root-stem portion. In production, we recommend making a glass water tank 60-100 cm long and 20 cm wide (transparent containers make it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root-stem portion). Prepare a children's foam puzzle board or a white construction foam board, and use a sharp knife to cut several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing golden barrel cactus, you can cut off the mouth of a discarded purified water bottle and use it upside down; note: cut off the bottle mouth so that the roots of the golden barrel cactus can be exposed from the cut bottle mouth, then place it in a flat body containing nutrient solution). Insert the three-angled sword into the triangular holes; at this time all the roots of the three-angled sword just contact the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponics treatment

Buy two magnets with a diameter of 6-10 cm and place them in the container, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution and thereby accelerate the emergence of water roots. (You can also buy a small wall-mounted submersible pump specially designed for ecological fish tanks from the market, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution, and turn on the power to achieve flowing, oxygen-carrying circulation of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the planted ball cactus in an environment with relatively strong diffused light, keep the temperature above 20°C, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. Replace the nutrient solution immediately after water roots appear.

Note:

During the induction process of ball cacti, it is strictly forbidden to spray water on the ball body, as it can easily cause the ball body to rot and die.

What should be noted when growing clivia hydroponically at home

Hydroponic clivia is a hygienic and convenient cultivation method. When cultivating at home, note the following:

(1) Container selection. The bottom of the cultivation container should have no holes, and it is best to choose a transparent one, so that you can view the leaves, flowers, and roots. You can use a glass bottle, or a non-toxic plastic bottle or ceramic container. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the diameter should not be too large.

(2) The cultivation solution. It can be nutrient solution or clean water, but when cultivating in clean water, note that foliar fertilization is needed to supply the nutrients required for clivia growth.

(3) Changing the solution. Hydroponic clivia needs regular solution changes. The number of changes depends on the weather. When the temperature is relatively low, change it about once a month; when the temperature is relatively high, change it once every 10 days. When changing the solution, be careful to wash the cultivation container clean.

How to scientifically grow amaryllis (Hippeastrum) hydroponically

In early winter, choose one or several large amaryllis bulbs that have already flowered or have not yet flowered, cut off all roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal the white and green, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take out the bulbs, wash off the mushy material at the cuts with clean water, dry them in the shade, and place them in a flower container. The flower container can be a bowl, basin, or narcissus pot, etc. Place washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc. inside, then place the prepared amaryllis bulbs on top. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must have been left standing for several days). The depth of the water should be enough to cover the small stones and other filler materials, or about 1 cm below the upper rim of the flower container. Finally, place it in a well-lit spot indoors. Keep the room temperature at about 10°C, and in about 7-10 days leaves will begin to grow and roots will develop. The water in the pot should always be kept at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertilizer needs to be supplemented promptly. Every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% monopotassium phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with roots into flower pots for routine care. In this way, hydroponically treated bulbs bloom slightly later than other conventionally potted amaryllis, just in time for the summer flowering period when flowers are scarce.

Technical management of hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also known as soilless cultivation or nutrient solution cultivation, is an agricultural production technology that cultivates crops without soil, using nutrient solution and its supporting facilities. In order to fix the plants and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert sand, gravel, peat, perlite, etc. as solid substrates, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since humans have had a history of cultivation, crops have been grown in soil, so the English word for agriculture is "Agriculture," formed from Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used 3 different kinds of water, namely rainwater, river water, and garden soil leachate, to grow mint. As a result, the mint grown in the garden soil leachate grew fastest, leading to the conclusion that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to the technical limitations of the time, Woodward did not conduct further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that the German scientists Sachs and Knop first conducted precise experiments in soilless cultivation and succeeded in cultivating plants with an artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts. They called this method hydroponics, and Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless cultivation technology.

◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless cultivation techniques. Hydroponic flowers are further divided into medium-based hydroponic flowers and medium-free hydroponic flowers. Medium-based hydroponics refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; medium-free hydroponic flowers are further divided into direct hydroponic flowers, floating hydroponic flowers, planting basket hydroponic flowers, atomized hydroponic flowers, nutrient film drip irrigation, and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its pros and cons, but if measured purely by good looks, durability and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most stylish, beautiful and simple, so the hydroponic plants sold on the market today are generally in the direct hydroponic form.

◆3. Why is the nutrient solution the key to successful hydroponic flower cultivation?
Answer: We all know that in a greenhouse environment, when inert substrates are used as the medium, soilless cultivation is already a very simple and mature technology, because computers control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc. in a timely manner, and dedicated technicians use pH meters, conductivity meters, etc. to test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of each element in a timely manner. But in a home environment, these conditions are very difficult to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no aesthetic difference from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be medium-free soilless cultivation, and without a medium, plants are very prone to root rot and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants to avoid root rot, odor, and strange smells while still growing normally when oxygen is lacking. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution should not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and must be non-toxic. Furthermore, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires that the nutrient solution be able to lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that it can grow well in office and home environments. What is more, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botany expert, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to operate, and learnable by anyone at once. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home cultivation place higher technical demands on the nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless cultivation techniques, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare; moreover, due to commercial interests, all the major flower companies treat their own nutrient solution technology as their top secret, so the nutrient solution formulas obtainable from public materials are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference material and cannot be used in production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home environments can be known with just one try. You only need to see whether the plants on display are growing vigorously and whether water roots are growing, because, as the saying goes: “Practice is the only criterion for testing truth!”

◆4. How can hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and their tissues will become necrotic below 0 degrees Celsius. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, indoor temperatures in winter generally do not fall below 5 degrees Celsius, and if there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, this can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; in the north, because most indoors have heating, it can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only cultivate certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all our common popular flowers can be grown hydroponically. But in a home environment, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, currently only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be cultivated, and in homes with a balcony, the suitable varieties are somewhat more numerous.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because the “Hydroponic Flower King” nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Every one of our specialty stores has a model of fish kept in hydroponic flowers, precisely to tell customers this information.
Generally speaking, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than one liter are suitable for keeping fish, and because the volume is limited, fish species should also be selected carefully. Some fish species with strong adaptability should be chosen, such as goldfish, small koi, etc. Some fish with strong aggression or strong destructiveness are also unsuitable for keeping in hydroponic flowers, because they will damage the plant roots; and some delicate fish are also unsuitable, because even keeping them in a dedicated aquarium is difficult to succeed at, let alone in a relatively poor-condition small vase. Changing the water can be done at the same time as the normal water change for the flowers, and feeding is the same as when we normally keep fish in a fish tank, with no difference.
Because the special substances in the “Hydroponic Flower King” nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of water, which benefits the respiration of plant roots, fish generally will not lack oxygen in the nutrient solution, so on days that are not especially hot there is no need to install oxygenation equipment.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid and must be diluted before use; when diluting, ordinary tap water can fully meet the requirements, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, then a water quality test must be carried out to understand the mineral content composition in the water. If the content of a certain mineral in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula must be adjusted to facilitate the normal growth of the plants.
During the dilution process, tap water can be used directly to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King will cause the chlorine in tap water to evaporate rapidly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, the diluted nutrient solution should be left to stand indoors for a period of time to prevent the plant roots from suffering root hair damage due to a sudden temperature change, which would cause the plants to wilt.

◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of plant roots' hydrotropism. The principle of hydrotropism is that plant root tips always grow toward the direction with sufficient moisture. This is shown when a plant's surface soil lacks water; in order to protect itself, its root tips will grow deeper into the soil, to absorb the water needed for the plant's growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time, root growth has a very obvious directionality; whereas plants growing in swamps or water do not lack water, so their roots grow more chaotically, without obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, with the bottom not needing to directly contact the water and a gap of about 1—2 cm, and do not water the bonsai but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week, the bottom of the bonsai will show roots growing toward the water. At this time you do not need to add water, and let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops; if you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, you can take a bonsai that has already grown full water roots out of its pot and use a planting basket to fix the plant in place, embellish it with pebbles or decorative items, and it becomes a pot of planting basket hydroponic flowers. The difference is that at this time, because there is no soil, you must replace the clear water with nutrient solution, and it is just that simple.

◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need a water change?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution will become fewer and fewer, and at the same time, due to root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water will become more and more, so hydroponic flowers need to be given fresh nutrient solution after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as soil-cultivated flowers; soil-cultivated flowers need fertilization and also need a soil change once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the interval between water changes should be shorter during the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or fail to grow vigorously?
Answer: It may be caused by too long an interval between solution changes, an incorrect nutrient solution ratio (too dilute or too concentrated), or light that is too weak. If these factors are ruled out, then check whether the nutrient solution level is too high, preventing the plant roots from respiring normally and causing oxygen deficiency; if none of these are the case, then we suggest you had better go to a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for consultation.

Exposing the hydroponic flower market -- distinguishing genuine from fake hydroponic flowers

At present, many companies are developing franchise stores for hydroponic flowers, causing a great commotion across the country. In particular, a company in Beijing has franchise stores that will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express many opinions, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flower industry, witnessing all this, I cannot help but complain. Because the scams involved not only harm consumers' interests but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. At present, during the low-temperature season, plant respiration is weak, and plants whose roots have been washed can be directly soaked in water and kept hydroponically for a period of time. Plants with strong flooding tolerance, such as Araceae plants, can survive hydroponically in water for 1-2 months, but once the weather turns hot, plant physiological respiration becomes strong, and oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately appear. A hydroponic work bought home for tens or hundreds [of yuan] is only a fleeting blossom, which not only harms consumers' interests but will also greatly affect the development of the hydroponic industry. Now I use a scientific perspective to expose the "deception techniques" involved.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. Once winter comes, these plants slow their growth rate and their respiration weakens. In addition, Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance. After their roots are washed and directly soaked in water, for a time no discomfort can be seen from the plant itself, but it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water; they can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory functions are severely blocked. Once the weather turns hot, the root system will suffer oxygen deficiency, become foul-smelling and rot. For other terrestrial plants that are somewhat stronger, this method simply cannot be achieved, so this is the main reason why they currently can only use Araceae plants to "deceive." Their so-called induction liquid, I think it would be nicer and more honest to call "deception liquid." It is absolutely impossible for plants to undergo changes in tissue structure within a few minutes.

2. Collecting high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a kind of commercial hype. If the goods were genuine and the price fair, there would be nothing to criticize; if the technology were unique, it could also dominate the market and franchising would truly be meaningful. But now this kind of franchising can be called a money scam. First, the technology has no scientific or technological content at all; it is just washing roots and soaking them in water, something even a fool could imitate at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself is something that has developed over decades and is no longer a technology exclusive to a certain company. Adopting franchising simply cannot monopolize the market; other hydroponic flower stores can operate just the same, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once closed, the franchise fee is also equivalent to being thrown away. Truly hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transport. In fact, what they are selling now are all products made from soil-cultivated seedlings after root washing; it might be more accurate to call them bare-root flowers.

3. Note: Araceae plants can also be kept hydroponically for a period of time after their roots are washed and soaked in water in late autumn, winter, and early spring. Everyone might as well try it; there is absolutely no need for deception liquid.

I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also inspected several countries with relatively developed hydroponic technology abroad. Our country's current hydroponic market can be said to be full of charlatans, with all kinds of things mixed together and the fake confusing the real. However, in the end these franchise scams will still be cleared out by history and science. I remind everyone to keep your eyes open and not be induced by deception liquid.

How to distinguish genuine from fake hydroponic flowers

Genuine versus fake hydroponic flowers is actually the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. At present, many hydroponic flower operators do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective, but proceed only from the angle of commercial hype and personal profit, passing off some ordinary soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants for sale and fooling consumers, causing very bad social effects. After some citizens buy them at high prices, the seedlings die before long due to the plants' physiological discomfort, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. In response to this problem, buyers can distinguish genuine from fake in the following aspects to avoid being cheated.

A. Judge genuine from fake by root morphology: Induced hydroponic flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots, and will not be like roots in soil with distinctions among main roots, lateral roots, capillary roots, and root hairs, that is, they will not exist in the state of multi-order branched secondary roots. Even if there is branching, it is only a small amount of branched roots based on fibrous adventitious roots, with few orders and a simple root structure, which is its most obvious feature. In addition, for some plants that originally have radicles, after induction the number of first-order adventitious roots increases markedly, that is, the proportion of roots is greatly raised, and the root system is numerous and well developed, resembling a beard.

B. Judge genuine from fake by root color: Plant water roots formed by aquatic induction mostly have the characteristics of being white, crisp, and tender. Even for some varieties that show their natural root color, their water roots are clearly lighter in color than land roots, such as yellowish-white, pale yellow, light brown, etc. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the fact that cell walls have not undergone, or have undergone little, suberization and lignification from wall thickening.

C. Judge genuine from fake by root integrity: Roots induced by aquatic conditions grow and differentiate anew starting from primary adventitious roots, and all of this is completed in a water environment, so the root system is complete. In contrast, although some soil-cultivated plants are carefully rinsed, there are always slight injuries or serious residual roots. This root integrity is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.

D. Judge genuine from fake by water clarity: Fake hydroponic works made from soil-washed seedlings, because the root system has not formed adaptability to water, under anaerobic conditions will undergo anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, causing the water in the container to quickly become cloudy or deteriorate. Visually, this appears as a turbid, unclear feeling, that is, water quality deterioration or a foul smell, followed by root rot and eventually dead seedlings.

E. Leaf angle can also be used to judge genuine from fake: In particular, for many herbaceous flowers extremely sensitive to ethylene, after induction their leaf insertion angle is clearly more flat and spreading than that of soil-washed seedlings from soil cultivation, that is, epinastic growth leads to an increased angle, or even drooping.

Increasing the dissolved oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solution

Apart from the requirements for environmental factors such as light, temperature, and humidity being exactly the same as soil cultivation, hydroponic flowers differ vastly in management requirements for water, fertilizer, and oxygen—— Water: Home-grown hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source, and generally tap water meeting national standards may be used. Tap water has undergone filtration, sedimentation, and sterilization treatment, is clean and hygienic, and has a pH below 7, so it can be safely used to grow hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water, and well water are polluted to varying degrees, are seriously eutrophic, and may differ greatly in various ions. If the content of one ion exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage the plants or cause poisoning and death, so they are not suitable as a water source for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home-grown hydroponic flowers must use a low-concentration dedicated nutrient solution based mainly on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with a balanced ratio of various elements. The inorganic salts are in ionic form, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and appropriately acidic or alkaline, which is conducive to nutrient absorption. It is inadvisable to crush soil fertilizer or granular chemical fertilizer and use it for hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on the flowers, but long-term application will inevitably hinder normal physiological metabolism. It is even less permissible to use organic fertilizer as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home-grown hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, and the dissolved oxygen is below /ppm/L. The flowers barely sustain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel, and their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface in order to breathe more oxygen. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of the hydroponic nutrient solution is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, and is especially important in summer. There are several simple and easy ways to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of changing the nutrient solution. 2. Oxygenate by vibration: fix the flower plant with one hand and gently shake the vessel more than 10 times with the other hand. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a miniature submersible pump or oxygenation pump (both standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution. Plant roots can obtain sufficient oxygen in such an environment, respiration is very vigorous, and this promotes robust flower growth.

See through fake hydroponic flower technology at a glance

Hydroponic flowers, with flowers and fish raised together and a combination of movement and stillness, are the first impression it gives intuitively. The earlier concept in China first sprouted around the turn of the 21st century. (Although some people very early on also grew and kept some easily hydroponic plants such as Araceae plants and lucky bamboo in water, this concept does not belong to the concept of "hydroponic flowers" popular among everyone now!) It rose in 2003, when many enterprises and institutions with market vision successively devoted themselves to preliminary research and planning work in this industry. In addition, with the broadcast of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it flourished from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers can be said to have bloomed everywhere in China, with some providing technical study and training, some producing at bases, and some franchising to open flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises, and individuals, stimulated by profit, put on shows in the market. On the one hand, they added fuel to the hype of the domestic hydroponic flower market concept, letting many citizens understand and recognize this newly born concept and product; on the other hand, many investors and operators became the sacrifices of this wave of market trends. As for 2006, the great wave washed away the sand. Those with their own core technology and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operational ability, could still remain amid such a chaotic market tide, and those who could remain were very few. However, hydroponic flowers, as such a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new wave in the development of the flower industry. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this industry for three or four years and is relatively familiar with it. In view of the uneven quality of the current hydroponic flower market, this article makes a systematic analysis and summary, all in order to give the broad public who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding, for everyone's reference:

Two, what are truly hydroponic flowers?

From a sensory point of view, using glass vases of various shapes, with plants and flowers grown on top (at present, the variety scope of hydroponic technology has already been expanded to include other woody plants, vines, succulents, etc.), and a few cute small fish kept below, these are hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, truly hydroponic flowers refer to those that, after cultivation and planting through various biological, physical, computer and other technical means, have changed the physiological characteristics of their root systems, possess water roots with plant aerenchyma tissue, and can adapt to long-term cultivation in water, only then can they become truly hydroponic flowers (plants)!

Three, how to identify truly hydroponic flowers?

Judging from the senses:
Report on the current state of hydroponic flower technology. One, introduction:
A successful truly hydroponic plant, after induction and domestication, should have a root system that is white and elegant, with many fibrous roots, and is very obviously different from soil-cultivated plants. The roots of soil-cultivated plants are all relatively dark black in color! (Except for a small number of plants whose root systems have their own unique color, such as red-leafed loropetalum, whose roots, branches, and stem sections are all dark red after induction! There are also some plants whose roots are nearly white after the soil is removed!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, this shows that it was only just planted in the bottle not long ago and placed there to fool users! Even if it has undergone induction, it cannot be sold as a commodity!

Judging from a technical perspective:

1) Does it possess a professional technical level?

If, as some merchants say, all that is needed is so-called "induction liquid," "domestication liquid," or "nutrient solution," and the plant is soaked in water for a few days or a few hours, and some even say that hydroponic flowers can be achieved in just a few dozen minutes or a few minutes, this claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Those who understand biological principles all know that if the plant root system is seriously short of oxygen in water, the roots will soon undergo anaerobic respiration, thereby fermenting and rotting. As a result, a large amount of fermentation matter accumulates in the bottle, mosquitoes and insects breed, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only when the induction of plant water roots is truly achieved, forming aerenchyma tissue and enabling the hydroponic plant to adapt well to the low-oxygen state in water, can it truly deserve to be called a hydroponic flower. And the cultivation of water roots cannot be fully completed and realized by nutrient solution alone; it requires the integration of biological, physical, computer and many other methods and means, and after a relatively long period of cultivation, only after fully adapting to the water environment can it become a professional truly hydroponic flower!

2) Does it possess a relatively strong level and ability in artistic composition?

Hydroponic flowers belong to mid- to high-end consumption. Their ornamental value lies in: artistic combination and matching. Each product lies in its artistic glass bottle container, beautiful plant shape, white and elegant root system, and the perfect combination and matching of decorations such as fish and aquatic plants in the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work, apart from natural sensory appeal, a relatively strong artistic combination cannot be assembled by an ordinary beginner! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether a manufacturer possesses such an aesthetic level!

3) Does it possess the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and fixed supply channels?

Whether it possesses the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether a merchant has the ability for professional hydroponic flower production. If there are neither fixed production facilities nor a powerful and branded producer as a supply source, then such a provider of hydroponic flowers is very likely just making "hydroponic flowers" from soil-cultivated plants after root washing!

Testing by variety:

The hydroponic flower varieties that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to plants such as those in Araceae and Crassulaceae that are themselves easy to grow hydroponically, such as peace lily, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, lucky bamboo, Monstera deliciosa, and Rohdea japonica. These plant varieties are themselves close to water and water-loving, and can generally be cultivated in water by ordinary methods. A professional producer should be able to hydroponically grow all kinds of woody plants and all kinds of water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus, money tree, Polynesian ivy, and even yew, osmanthus, fruit trees, etc. If the plant varieties a merchant can provide are single and limited, then it certainly does not belong to a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Testing by time:

Time is the final and only criterion for testing hydroponic flowers. If they cannot adapt to long-term cultivation in water and are only a fleeting show, dying within a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers that speculators produce within a few hours by washing away the soil-cultivated root system. In just a few days, the flowers bloom and fade and fall! Therefore, at present, for those owners who cannot provide a shelf life for the goods, most are speculators. If a merchant cannot provide a shelf life for the goods, it is recommended not to buy, so as to avoid being cheated!
Four, how to identify a truly professional hydroponic flower producer?

Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "formal" means in publicity and in information transmission channels to muddle through and fool the broad consumers and investors. In order to leave no foothold for the so-called high-tech shell companies and technology-transfer "guerrilla" companies that have no real hydroponic flower technology, no base, no scale, and no technical personnel, that rent a few offices in national universities (such as Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), in research institutes (such as the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Sciences, the Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), in institutions under the Ministry of Agriculture (such as the Bureau of Retired Cadres of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technology center of the Ministry of Agriculture), or in office buildings, and then start advertising to rake in money, and also to make malicious transfers of some immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices lose their deceptive market, and even more for your ability to learn these several genuine technologies.

The author solemnly reminds you: no matter where in the country or on what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes open, be more vigilant, look at several more companies, and compare more; you must carefully compare unit scale, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality, and after-sales service, {{remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and also ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try as much as possible to visit the franchisees to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, so then you must think twice before acting. This is the most direct and final method of judgment. Of course, in addition, those "high-level" companies will also, like "medical shills," "education shills," "real estate shills," and "wine shills," fool you with the skill of the "great deceiver" Zhao Benshan, making it impossible to guard against!}}; you must carefully check the authenticity of the technology, training capability, and relevant certificates; you must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing unnecessary losses to your finances and spirit. Apart from distinguishing whether something is truly a hydroponic flower through the product route, in fact, everyone only needs to be a bit more vigilant to see through many speculators one by one. The following points of experience, several types

How to carry out foliar fertilization for hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponic flowers are a cultivation method under conditions of root oxygen deficiency, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. In order to improve flower quality, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be used for foliar spraying.

A fine-hole spray pot should be used, and as far as possible the fertilizer liquid should not be allowed to run off. The underside of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, and twice during the growth period. This can make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing and also for flower appreciation, such as peace lily, four-season begonia, Begonia maculata, and calla lily, during the bud stage a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution can be sprayed on the leaf surface once a week until the flowers open.

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