How to Make a Fruiting Pear Bonsai and Its Care Tips

Growing Techniques Jan 1, 1970 0 views

The pear tree has a graceful form, with white blossoms covering the tree in spring and abundant fruit in autumn, filling the air with fragrance; some cultivars have striking red leaves that are much admired. The fruit is both ornamental and edible. Because the pear tree is highly adaptable, under pot cultivation its roots twist and turn attractively, slightly exposed above the potting soil, giving a sense of solidity, and it is much loved by bonsai enthusiasts. Below, the editor of Huinong Network will tell you about making and caring for a fruiting pear bonsai.

1. Material selection

(1) Callery pear (Pyrus betulifolia): highly adaptable, with a well-developed taproot and vigorous growth, salt-alkali tolerant, and strongly compatible with cultivars such as sand pear, white pear, European pear and Ussurian pear; it is one of the excellent rootstocks for pot cultivation.

(2) Ussurian pear (Pyrus ussuriensis): well-developed root system, very strong adaptability and cold resistance, not easily affected by disease, and strongly compatible among cultivars; it is a good rootstock for cold regions.

(3) Callery pear (Pyrus calleryana): relatively shallow roots, highly adaptable, heat tolerant and waterlogging resistant, but with rather poor cold resistance; it performs well when grafted with European pear and certain white pear cultivars, and is the preferred pot rootstock in the Yangtze River basin and areas to the south in China.

(4) Quince (Cydonia oblonga): there are three types, A, B and C; type A has strong compatibility with various cultivars, while type C has the strongest dwarfing effect and is the preferred dwarfing rootstock for European pear.

2. Bonsai styling

The pear tree is suitable for making many different forms of bonsai, such as formal upright, slanting, curved trunk, double trunk, forest, cascade, and semi-cascade. Because the leaves are relatively large, the crown is mostly shaped naturally rather than wired into pads. As the pear tree grows vigorously with a large annual growth increment and strongly developed terminal branches, regardless of the bonsai form, methods such as heading back and pinching out the growing tips must be used to control the growth of vigorous branches so as to keep it short and compact.

The large fruit of the pear tree is the main ornamental feature of its bonsai; when cultivating the crown, the size, quantity and distribution of the fruit should be determined according to the plant's form and nutrient reserves, so that there is some variation. Methods such as branch bending, twisting, curving and heading back can be used to adjust branch direction, increase the number of scaffold branches, control vigorous branches and encourage short spurs, so as to cultivate robust fruiting branches and make the bonsai full of foliage and bear an appropriate amount of fruit. The pear tree has a well-developed root system, and the roots can be raised as needed to enhance the bonsai's sense of aged, ancient simplicity.

3. Bonsai care

(1) Light

The pear tree loves light; during the growing season, insufficient light leads to poor branch growth and poorly developed flower buds, affecting flowering and fruiting. During dormancy the pear tree has strong cold resistance, and potted plants can overwinter placed in a low-temperature indoor space; in northern regions, burying them in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot also allows them to overwinter.

(2) Watering

The pear tree needs a sufficient water supply during the growing period. In the early flowering stage, late flowering stage and early fruit-setting stage, insufficient watering will affect the fruit-setting rate and fruit weight gain. Many pear cultivars flower but do not set fruit, especially in pots; if you grow 2-3 pots, it is best to use different cultivars and carry out artificial supplementary pollination on the day of flowering or the next day. For about 20 days in mid-to-late June, appropriately restricting water to suppress new branch growth can also promote the physiological differentiation of flower buds, after which normal watering is resumed. Water less in winter.

(3) Fertilizing

In spring, as temperatures keep rising, the pear tree gradually enters its vigorous growth period and needs more fertilizer; apply a diluted well-rotted organic liquid fertilizer once every half month, and apply a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate liquid fertilizer 2-3 times about every 15 days.

Making and caring for a pear bonsai

Making a pear bonsai

First, for making a pear bonsai, you can choose mountain pear, Callery pear (Pyrus betulifolia), Ussurian pear or Callery pear (Pyrus calleryana) as the rootstock, and for the scion it is suitable to choose excellent pear cultivars that grow robustly and bear fruit easily, grafting by bud grafting or stem grafting.

Second, the pear tree is suited to a variety of bonsai styles; formal upright, slanting, double trunk, forest, cascade, curved trunk, semi-cascade and so on are all good choices. Because pear leaves are relatively large, the crown is best shaped naturally. In addition, the pear tree grows rather vigorously with a large growth increment and strongly developed terminal branches, so measures such as heading back and pinching out growing tips must be used to control the growth of vigorous branches; this helps form a short, compact and naturally graceful crown and also favors flower bud formation.

Finally, the large fruit is one of the ornamental values of a pear bonsai; while cultivating the crown, the size, quantity and distribution of the fruit should be determined according to the plant's form and nutrient reserves, so that there can be some variation. Methods such as heading back, branch bending, twisting and curving are also used to adjust the growth direction of branches, increase the number of scaffold branches, control vigorous branches and promote the growth of short spurs, achieving the goal of cultivating high-quality fruiting branches, making the foliage full and the fruit yield appropriate. In addition, the pear tree has a well-developed root system, and the roots can be raised according to the specific situation, which helps set off the bonsai's aged, ancient simplicity.

Caring for a pear bonsai

The pear tree has a relatively high fertilizer requirement; besides applying sufficient base fertilizer when potting, during the growing season a well-rotted organic liquid fertilizer is generally applied once every 15-20 days or so. During the bud-break stage, flower bud differentiation stage and fruit swelling stage, in addition to normal fertilizing, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be added, spraying the leaves 2-3 times or so with a 0.2-0.3 potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution, to meet the nutritional requirements for flowering and fruiting.

Because the nutrients in a pear bonsai pot are limited, the fruit retained should not be too many, in order to reduce nutrient consumption; usually 1-2 fruits per inflorescence is enough, and depending on the specific situation the entire inflorescence can even be removed.

Repotting is needed once every 1-2 years or so, best done in spring; the potting soil should preferably be a loose, fertile, well-drained neutral sandy soil.

How to grow a pear bonsai: points to note in pear bonsai care

Floral Bonsai Network introduction: Today the editor of Floral Bonsai Network shares with you an article on how to grow a pear bonsai and points to note in pear bonsai care; let's take a look together.

The pear tree likes a warm, humid and sunny growing environment and has strong adaptability. With good daily care, you can enjoy a beautiful pear bonsai. So, how should a pear bonsai be grown?

The pear tree likes a warm, humid and sunny environment and has strong adaptability to its surroundings; it tolerates cold and also high temperatures. During the growing period it can be placed in a well-ventilated, sunny spot for care; if light is insufficient, branch growth will be insufficient and flower bud formation poor. In winter it can be placed in a cold room or outdoors in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot to overwinter; keeping the potting soil from freezing is enough for it to overwinter safely.

How to grow a pear bonsai

Temperature and light

The pear tree likes a warm, humid and sunny growing environment, is highly adaptable, and tolerates cold and high temperatures. During the growing period of the pear tree, it is suitable to place it in a well-ventilated, sunny spot for care. If light is insufficient, branch growth will be insufficient and flower bud formation poor. In winter the bonsai can be placed in a cold room or outdoors in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot; keeping the potting soil from freezing is enough for it to overwinter safely.

Water

Pear leaves are quite sensitive to water; an insufficient supply easily causes wilting, and after a slightly longer time they dry up and drop. Insufficient water directly affects the fruit-setting rate and the growth of young fruit. Therefore, in daily care, water as soon as the soil looks dry, avoiding overly dry soil. Especially in hot, dry summer weather, an appropriate amount of water should also be sprayed on the leaves.

Fertilizer

Potting soil

Repot once every 1-2 years, suitable in spring. The potting soil should preferably be a loose, fertile, well-drained neutral sandy soil, with a pH in the range of 5.8-8.5.

Pruning

Points to note in pear bonsai care

Carry out pruning in good time, cutting out water sprouts, crossing branches, overlapping branches and dead branches, and heading back vigorous branches to encourage lower budding, cultivating compact fruiting branch groups. At the same time, this gives the bonsai a naturally graceful artistic effect with clearly defined layers and an ordered balance of sparse and dense growth.

Because pear leaves are quite sensitive to water supply, if water is insufficient the leaves often wilt, and after a slightly longer time they dry up and drop; especially in the early flowering stage, late flowering stage and the rapid fruit growth stage, if there is no sufficient water supply, it can directly affect the fruit-setting rate, young fruit growth and later fruit weight gain. Therefore, during cultivation, water as soon as the soil looks dry, avoiding overly dry soil; in hot, dry summer weather, spray water on the leaves as appropriate. Management methods for pear bonsai. Management methods for pear bonsai.

Mid-to-late June is its flower bud differentiation period, and a short period of drought treatment can be carried out to suppress new shoot growth, increase the proportion of medium and short spurs, and promote flower bud differentiation; the method is wilting-watering-wilting-watering, and about 20 days of this treatment is enough. In early-to-mid June, ring-barking or scoring the trunk or main branches can also be done to increase the proportion of medium and short fruiting spurs. In autumn, watering should be appropriately controlled; in winter, the moisture of the potting soil should be checked frequently and water replenished in time to avoid dry-freeze damage. Management methods for pear bonsai. This article on management methods for pear bonsai comes from

The pear tree has a relatively high fertilizer requirement; when potting, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied, and during the growing season a well-rotted organic liquid fertilizer should be applied once every 15 to 20 days. During the bud-break stage, flower bud differentiation stage and fruit swelling stage, when fertilizer demand is greater, in addition to normal fertilizing, the amount of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer used should also be increased, by spraying the leaves with a 0.2 to 0.3 potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution 2 to 3 times, to meet the nutritional needs of flowering and fruiting.

After the tree form is basically stable, attention should be paid to maintaining vigorous tree growth so that it bears fruit year after year; combined with pruning and shaping, cut out water sprouts, crossing branches, overlapping branches and dead branches, and head back vigorous branches to encourage lower buds to develop into branches, so as to cultivate compact fruiting branch groups. Also make the bonsai clearly layered with an ordered balance of sparse and dense growth, achieving a naturally graceful artistic effect. Management methods for pear bonsai. Floral Encyclopedia.

Because the nutrients in the pot are limited, the fruit retained should not be too many; generally 1 to 2 fruits per inflorescence are kept, and the entire inflorescence can even be removed. Repot once every 1 to 2 years in spring; the potting soil is best a loose, fertile, well-drained neutral sandy soil, with a pH between 5.8 and 8.5.

I. Biological characteristics

The pear root system is well developed and easily produces new roots after root pruning, and there are two growth peaks within a year. The flower buds of the pear are mixed buds, relatively large and plump, and most are terminal. Fruiting branches can be divided by length into long, medium and short fruiting branches and short fruiting branch groups. When making a pear bonsai, short fruiting branches and short fruiting branch groups should be cultivated and used for fruiting as much as possible, so as to keep the form compact and full.

The pear genus is a light-loving group of trees; when light is insufficient, branch growth is insufficient and flower bud formation is poor. The pear has strong cold resistance during dormancy, and potted pear trees in the central part of Hebei Province can overwinter simply by being placed in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot. The pear likes fertilizer, and the growing medium should be loose and fertile.

II. Material collection and cultivation

There are many rootstocks suitable for pear, such as mountain pear and Callery pear (Pyrus betulifolia), which can be propagated from seed and are also easy to collect in mountainous areas. When collecting in the wild, mountain pear is a better pear rootstock, with strong growth vigor and a well-developed root system; after collection, whether returned to the nursery or potted directly for tending, the survival rate is high. Using small trees or large saplings from culled orchards with low branching points, moderately heavy pruning of their branches and roots for shaping, and potting them directly for tending, can all achieve the goal of rapid growth and formation.

III. Potting process

(1) Growing medium

The pear can grow normally within a pH range of 5.8~8.5 and has a wide tolerance for potting soil acidity, alkalinity and salt content; it likes fertilizer but is not prone to fertilizer burn; it dislikes heavy clay soil and requires a loose, fertile growing medium.

(2) Pot selection

The pear has a well-developed root system and strong growth vigor, so when first planting it is best to use a relatively deep unglazed clay pot. After the form is established, it can be transferred to a purple clay pot. The choice of purple clay pot should be determined by the styling requirements of the tree; in general, shallow pots should be avoided as much as possible. If a shallow pot must be used, after the viewing period it should be returned to a larger pot for tending, to meet the tree's nutrient requirements.

(3) Planting

The suitable potting time for pear is before bud break in spring and after leaf fall in autumn. Before potting, moderately heavy heading back of the above-ground branches and trunk should be done according to the styling requirements, to reduce nutrient consumption and improve the survival rate. The root system should be handled on the principle of retaining as many fibrous roots as possible; roots of suitable thickness and length can be coiled in the pot, laying the foundation for future root raising; when cutting thicker large roots, take care that the angle of the cut or saw cut faces downward as much as possible, so that later root raising does not expose wounds and affect the ornamental effect.

(4) Styling

The styling of a pear bonsai can, according to its cultivar characteristics, adopt many forms such as curved trunk, twisted trunk, slanting trunk, cascade, forest, low trunk with open center, and tall trunk with layered branching. Because the pear tree grows vigorously with a large annual growth increment and strongly developed terminal branches, whatever the style, vigorous branches should be controlled to form a short tree body with compact fruiting and a naturally graceful form.

Since the 1990s, the author has cultivated more than a thousand pear trees in total, and most of the successful works came from rootstocks collected deep in the Taihang Mountains; such rootstocks are over several decades old, of every conceivable form, and convenient for many styles. After several years in pots, they bear abundant fruit all over the tree, and combined with the vigorous, ancient-looking trunk, they easily form an exceptionally fine ornamental effect. The cultivation of such trunks mainly uses the method of trunk chopping and branch accumulating, so that new branches form on top of the trunk, and then a new crown is formed by grafting.

The pear fruit is relatively large, and in a pear bonsai the fruit is one of the main elements making up the picture; "no fruit, no scene." The quantity, size and distribution of the fruit change every year and even between seasons. Therefore, in making this kind of bonsai, the early stage should focus on selecting and cultivating the trunk form, and after entering the fruiting stage, focus on changes in the crown and the cultivation of fruit, determining the distribution of fruit, to sketch out a brilliant picture of a fruit-tree bonsai with distinct seasons and rich variation. Specific methods are as follows: 1) Bending and shaping. Bend the main trunk of the bonsai into shape, making it lively and elegant, flexible and varied, like a swimming dragon, achieving an effect of softness containing firmness, clear and beautiful. This method is mostly used for young trees just potted or for potted trees with a perennial trunk diameter under 5 cm, a smooth scar-free trunk and a relatively high branching point. 2) Trunk chopping and branch accumulating. This is the main technique for shaping and cultivating a pear bonsai. Pear latent buds are long-lived and easily sprout branches after stimulation; often when sawed off at a position of over ten years, the cut area can still send out good branches from latent buds. Therefore, for pear stock material, on the basis of preserving the trunk form, its branches can be boldly cut back, or branches and crown can be re-cultivated, or the direction of the tree form adjusted, to increase the thickness ratio between upper and lower parts and form the style of a towering giant tree within a relatively small space.

IV. Shaping techniques

Before fruiting, a pear bonsai's young tree has obvious apical dominance, a relatively large annual branch growth increment and relatively few branches; measures such as branch bending, twisting, curving and heading back should be used to adjust the direction of branch formation, increase the number of scaffold branches, control vigorous branches, encourage short spurs, and cultivate robust fruiting branch groups, forming a relatively short crown. For potted trees in the early fruiting stage, on the basis of continuing shaping work, the focus should be on cultivating fruiting branches and fruiting branch groups close to the inner canopy, so that the potted tree is full of foliage inside and out, bears fruit year after year, and has balanced growth and development.

Combined with shaping and pruning, for water sprouts, vigorous branches and branches of moderate growth vigor, where there is space, moderately head them back at the middle and lower parts and bend them flat, to encourage lower buds to sprout into branches and cultivate compact fruiting branch groups. To prevent the fruiting position from shifting outward and the tree form from becoming disordered, appropriately retrench the forward branches of weakened tree vigor and thin out overlapping and crossing branches that disrupt the tree form, so that the layers are clear, the density is moderate, and the overall arrangement is orderly, achieving a vigorous, upright, naturally graceful form that shows the large within the small.

V. Care and management

(1) Fertilizing

A pear bonsai has a relatively high fertilizer requirement; during the growing season, apply organic fertilizer once every 10~15 days. During the bud-break stage, flower bud differentiation stage and fruit swelling stage, when fertilizer demand is greater, in addition to fully applying a 150-fold organic liquid fertilizer, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be added, to meet the needs of flowering, fruiting and tree growth.

(2) Watering

The pear tree needs a sufficient water supply throughout the growing period, and its leaves are very sensitive to water; the slightest water loss causes wilting, and after a slightly longer time scorching and dropping. During the growing season, such as the early flowering stage, late flowering stage and rapid fruit growth stage, insufficient water supply can directly affect the fruit-setting rate, young fruit growth and later fruit weight gain. Therefore, during the growing season, water in good time according to the moisture of the potting soil. When temperatures are high and air humidity low, spray water on the leaves at noon or in the afternoon. In continuous rainy weather, pay attention to drainage. In early spring, water in good time according to soil moisture to prevent shoot dieback.

(3) Promoting flowering

Starting in mid-to-late June, carry out a short period of drought treatment, which clearly suppresses new shoot growth, increases the proportion of medium and short spurs, and promotes flower bud formation.

(4) Preserving fruit

Most pear cultivars have an extremely low self-pollination fruit-setting rate; when the number of potted plants is small or a single cultivar is used, artificial supplementary pollination is needed.

(5) Overwintering and cold protection

The pear has relatively strong cold resistance; in the central and southern parts of North China, a wind-sheltered, sunny site with no obstruction on the south side can be chosen for overwintering in the open ground. However, the moisture of the potting soil must be checked frequently and water replenished in time.