How to Grow Camellias So They Thrive: Key Points for Caring for Them at Home and Propagation Methods
Camellia, also known as camellia flower, is a fairly common potted flowering plant in daily life. Its blooms are brilliantly colored, and a single small camellia plant can bear dozens or even hundreds of flowers at once. How can you grow camellias so they flourish, bloom abundantly, and keep blooming continuously?
1. A newly purchased camellia goes through a period of acclimatization. Do not put it in direct sunlight right away. If the soil is moist, there is no need to water it; place it in a ventilated spot with diffused light. Only once new leaves emerge should you resume normal sunlight and watering.
2. Camellias prefer slightly acidic soil, while ordinary soil is generally alkaline, so the potting soil needs to be improved. When watering the camellia, you can add some ferrous sulfate to the pot, or diluted edible vinegar, or you can soak orange peel in water and pour some into the pot; all of these can improve the soil's pH. This is more conducive to its growth.
3. Too little potting soil, or soil that is too compacted and poor, is not good for the camellia's growth. Either add more soil or repot it into a larger pot.
The most suitable soil for planting camellias is mountain soil, plus leaf mold and garden soil, a small amount of river sand, and decomposed sawdust.
4. For routine watering, keep the indoor area ventilated. Water only when the soil is dry, and water thoroughly each time; wait until the soil has dried out completely before watering again. If the roots remain wet for a long time, normal respiration and growth are hindered, and root rot easily occurs.
5. Light: if putting it in the sun, provide shade in summer; at other times it needs sunlight, because it is a sun-loving plant and cannot be kept for long periods indoors in a spot with insufficient light.
6. Fertilize reasonably, applying light fertilizer frequently. In spring, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which will make the flowers bloom longer and more vividly. Fertilizing is not suitable in winter or summer, and do not fertilize one you have just bought, because it easily burns the roots.
7. Once it has passed the acclimatization period, you can place the camellia on a terrace to get some sun, some air, and some breeze.
More breeze and more sunlight are better for its growth. Only in a sunny, ventilated place will it grow more and more vigorously and bloom especially beautifully.
Camellias prefer a warm, humid growing environment with good drainage, and they fear wind, so special attention is needed during care. Above, we introduced the propagation methods and key care points for potted camellias, and we hope this will be helpful to everyone!
Camellia Growing Methods and Points to Note (Potted)
Camellia, also known as camellia flower, is an evergreen shrub or small tree of the genus Camellia in the family Theaceae. Because of its graceful plant form, thick green and glossy leaves, and brilliantly colorful flowers, it is treasured by the world's horticultural circles. There are extremely many camellia cultivars, and it is a traditional ornamental flower of China, ranking eighth among the "Ten Famous Flowers," and is also one of the world's precious flowering trees and shrubs. This article introduces in detail the camellia's growth habits, planting requirements, and the growing methods and points to note for potted camellias.▎Growth HabitsTemperature and Light Requirements
Because camellias need a day length of 12h to form flower buds, their light requirements are stricter. The most suitable temperature for camellia growth is 18-25°C, and they grow better in warm, humid, ventilated places with good light transmission. A temperature of 10-20°C is suitable for flowering; growth stops when the temperature exceeds 29°C, and leaves are scorched when the temperature is above 35°C. Therefore, during the growing period, camellias should be placed in a semi-shaded environment and must not receive excessively strong direct sunlight. In spring, autumn, and winter, shading is not necessary; in summer, use a shade net to block light. Most cultivars can tolerate low temperatures of -8°C, and when the temperature falls below -3°C, potted camellias are best moved indoors for warmth.
Soil Requirements
Camellias prefer fertile, loose, breathable, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Generally, black soil, red soil, pine needle soil, and sandy soil are mixed and stirred to make a nutrient soil. Red soil contains much organic matter, black soil has a coagulating effect, and humus soil has a loosening effect; through mixing, the soil is improved. The soil pH is 6.5-7, which is most suitable for camellia growth. Since a single soil type cannot meet the camellia's requirements, several soils and media need to be selected and reasonably proportioned to satisfy the camellia's growth requirements to the greatest extent. Generally, mountain soil, perlite, and rice husk ash (6:3:1) are used; this formula soil is especially suitable for home potted use and gives good results. After the nutrient soil is prepared, sift it once, spray it lightly with water, then bake it over fire to make sterilized soil for later use. Sterilized soil has the advantages of not breeding insects, not causing root mildew, and having no odor.
▎Planting Requirements
Camellia seedlings should be planted as soon as they are lifted, not left overnight. They must be planted into pots in the shortest possible time. This requires preparing the pots and potting soil (substrate) before purchasing camellia seedlings; otherwise, the seedlings may lose water because they are not planted in time, affecting the survival rate and also affecting their recovery and vigor after survival. Key planting techniques: the camellia's roots should be spread out and not bent excessively, to prevent breaking the roots when pressing the soil above the roots after backfilling. The soil above the roots should be pressed appropriately so that the roots and soil are in close contact, improving the roots' water absorption capacity. After potting, place it indoors to prevent wind from blowing the camellia seedling and causing gaps between the roots and the soil, which would affect the roots' absorption of water. Newly transplanted camellia seedlings have roots that are more or less damaged, and the roots' water absorption capacity is poor, so appropriate pruning must be done after planting to reduce water evaporation. After planting, camellias must be given enough settling water, and the water should soak through. To prevent the water from not soaking through, water again on the second and third days after planting. After that, depending on weather conditions, water once every 1-3d, gradually transitioning to the watering frequency of normal management.
▎Cultivation Techniques
Flower Pot Selection
Flower pots include clay pots, ceramic pots, porcelain pots, plastic pots, and other types, with clay pots being the best. The walls of glazed porcelain or ceramic pots and plastic pots block air circulation. Camellia is a woody flowering plant, so it is best to choose a somewhat larger pot. Before using a new pot, first soak it thoroughly in water; before using an old pot, first scrub it clean with water to prevent moss on the outside of the pot from clogging the pores in the pot wall.
Potting Requirements
Before planting, first place a piece of tile over the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, add a small amount of coarse soil to the bottom, then add the prepared nutrient soil. After planting, water thoroughly, place it in a shaded spot on the balcony for two days, and after the camellia seedling grows normally, move it to a spot with sunlight.
Timely Shading
Camellias prefer half shade and half sun. The shading times for potted camellias are midday in June-July, 09:00-17:00 in August, 10:00-16:00 in September, and only midday in October.
Bud Thinning
Begin thinning flower buds in August, keeping one bud per branch, which allows the flowers to open larger.
Water Control
Camellia growth cannot be separated from water, and water transpiration can regulate the camellia's body temperature. For potted camellias, first keep the soil moist and prevent alternating dry and wet conditions. If there is too much water, camellias will show leggy growth, inhibiting flower bud differentiation, and roots will rot or the plant will die from being soaked in too much water; if there is too little water, camellias will wilt and be unable to carry out normal life activities. In winter, camellia growth enters a dormant stage, and the demand for water decreases, so the potting soil should be on the dry side. In addition, being too wet in winter easily causes the potting soil to freeze and damages the root system. Summer is precisely the high-temperature, dry season and also the period of vigorous camellia growth, with a high demand for water, so the potting soil should be kept moist. As for watering times, in spring and autumn it is best in the morning and afternoon, in summer it is best in the early morning and evening, and in winter it is best at noon. It is best to spray water on the leaves to wet them thoroughly. In hot, dry weather, watering 2-3 times per day is needed to ensure the camellia's normal growth and development. But note that before flower buds appear at the end of the spring shoot period, water should be appropriately withheld to favor reproductive growth.
Fertilization
Camellias like fertilizer. At potting time, apply sufficient base fertilizer; during growth, fertilize appropriately; when repotting in March each year, add more base fertilizer; in June-July, apply thin bean cake water fertilizer twice a month. When branching and leafing out, apply more nitrogen fertilizer; when flowering, apply more phosphorus fertilizer, and apply potassium fertilizer in appropriate amounts to enhance the camellia's winter hardiness. Generally, except during the plum rain season, more liquid fertilizer can be applied in spring and summer, and less liquid fertilizer during the dog days, switching to dry fertilizer. Note that when applying liquid fertilizer, the fertilizer solution should not fall on the leaves; camellias that are sick, have just been transplanted, or have not yet rooted must not be fertilized; before fertilizing, the potting soil should remain dry and loose.
Shaping and Pruning
After camellias bloom, in order to reduce nutrient consumption, promptly cut off dead branches, diseased branches, weak branches, withered leaves, and branches that affect the tree's shape, and thin out excess flower buds and spent flowers. Removing buds and leaves can inhibit leggy branch growth. Remove leaves in early summer and early autumn to favor healthy plant growth and the formation of new flower buds. You can also prune for shaping according to personal preference, but camellias should not be heavily pruned.
Changing Potting Soil
Potted camellias can be repotted once every 1-2 years, and the new pot should be at least one size larger than the old one to facilitate root spreading and development. When changing the soil, remove part of the compacted, nutrient-poor old soil and replace it with fertile, loose new soil, while also placing base fertilizer. The best time for repotting is February-April in spring. You can also repot and change the soil in September to early and mid-October, but be especially careful, because new roots have just grown and damage to them must be prevented. Do not repot or change soil from bud set to flowering, to avoid affecting flower quality or even causing flowers to wither early and shortening the flowering period; do not repot or change soil in summer, to avoid affecting flower bud differentiation, and because high temperatures make it difficult for the plant to recover growth.
Pest and Disease Control
Common camellia diseases mainly include anthracnose and black mold, which can be controlled by spraying 0.5-degree Bordeaux mixture. You can also spray 25% carbendazim wettable powder at 1,000 times dilution or 60% Fenmiebao ultra-fine wettable powder at 800 times dilution for combined control. Pests mainly include tea shoot moths, red spiders, and scale insects. Tea shoot moths damage tender leaves, causing the tender shoots to become hollow and die; generally observe carefully from April to June, and when they occur, cut off the infested leaves. For red spiders and scale insects, use 40% omethoate at 1,000 times dilution for spraying and killing.
▎Propagation Techniques
Camellia propagation is divided into sexual propagation and asexual propagation. In daily cultivation, cutting propagation is mostly used. In May-June, select tender branches of the current year as cuttings, 10cm long, strip off the basal leaves, and leave the top two leaves. The key is to pay attention to the treatment of the cuttings before insertion. The method is to soak the base of the cuttings in a naphthaleneacetic acid solution for about 10h, which can promote rooting. After insertion, spray water promptly and provide shade; do not let strong light scorch them. Keep air humidity at 85%-95% and the surrounding temperature at 25-30°C. About 30d after cutting, once new roots grow from the base of the cuttings, reduce shading and gradually increase light. When the camellia seedling grows to 50-80cm, it can be moved into a flower pot for planting. (Author: Zhao Lixin)Growing Methods and Points to Note for Potted Camellias
Camellia (Camellia japonica), also known as camellia flower, is a plant of the genus Camellia in the family Theaceae. It originated in our country and is widely distributed in Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Sichuan, and the Yangtze River basin. There are many camellia cultivars, and it is a famous traditional ornamental flower of our country and also one of the world's precious flowering trees and shrubs. The enchanting charm of camellias lies in their overall long flowering period (October to May of the following year) and their characteristics of brilliantly colored and changeable flowers, delicate flower appearance, and remaining unwithered through winter [1]. In recent years, with intensifying competition in the flower industry and the Lunar New Year flower market, the commercial production of potted camellias has increasingly attracted the attention of producers, operators, and enthusiasts. The author summarizes the experience of predecessors and many years of personal potted camellia growing, and proposes a set of planting and management techniques, aiming to provide reference and technical guidance for growing enthusiasts, to promote the large-scale and intensive production, operation, and management of camellia seedlings in our country, and to promote the prosperity and development of our country's camellia industry.
▎Habits of Camellias
Camellias are mostly evergreen shrubs or small trees, with densely growing branches and leaves, an egg-shaped crown, alternate simple leaves, leathery and glossy, with fine serrated margins, bisexual flowers borne singly at the branch tips, and nearly spherical capsules [2]. They prefer half shade and avoid scorching sun, prefer a warm climate, with the most suitable growth temperature being 18-25°C. Generally, cultivars can tolerate cold down to -10°C and heat up to 36°C, and are suitable for planting in areas with annual precipitation reaching 1,200mm and relatively high air humidity. They are suited to neutral or slightly acidic fertile, loose soil rich in humus, with pH 5.5-6.5 being best. Each year there are 2 shoot flushes, namely the spring shoot flush in March-April and the summer shoot flush in July-September. Camellia flowers are large, brilliantly colored and rich, with a relatively long flowering period, mostly 1-2 months, and a single flower can last 7-15d.
▎Planting and Management of Potted Camellias
Soil Management
The foundation of plant growth is soil, and the physical and chemical properties of the soil determine the growth of potted camellias. Generally, camellias are suitable for growing in neutral or slightly acidic fertile, loose soil rich in humus, with pH 5.5-6.5 being best. Loose-textured soil has good water absorption and drainage, strong water retention, and good air permeability, which benefits root growth and microbial reproduction. Fertile soil rich in humus can ensure the supply of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and various trace elements, benefiting camellia growth. Generally, potted camellias need repotting once every 2-3a, each time using a pot one size larger, while also changing to new soil, maintaining good soil properties, effectively preventing soil compaction, and promoting renewed root growth.
Water Management
Water is the source of plant life and directly affects the growth and development of camellias. Water is one of the essential raw materials for photosynthesis and is also an important component of plant cell protoplasm. Through transpiration between cells, camellias can regulate their own temperature. Different camellia cultivars, growth conditions, growth stages, and seasons all have different water requirements. Overwatering can cause root rot and inhibit flower bud differentiation; insufficient watering can cause wilting and prevent normal life activities. Because potted camellias are grown in pots, the water absorbed by the roots generally cannot guarantee the water supply needed for transpiration by branches, leaves, and flowers, so the principle of "do not water until dry, and when watering, water thoroughly" should be followed, watering frequently to maintain the water balance in the camellia's body and avoid the potting soil drying out so that it is difficult to absorb water [3]. Note that in winter, when humidity is high, camellias enter dormancy or semi-dormancy, and their physiological demand for water decreases, so watering should be chosen at noon when the temperature is relatively high, and care should be taken to prevent the potting soil from freezing and damaging the roots; in summer, when it is hot and dry and camellias are in their most vigorous growth period, they need a large supply of water, so watering is best chosen in the early morning and evening, and both the amount and frequency of watering should be increased.
Light Management
Light is an important condition for plant photosynthesis and life activities, accompanies the entire process of camellia growth, and determines flower quality. Different cultivars also have different light requirements. Generally, red-flowered camellias can withstand direct sunlight better than white-flowered, pale-colored, and variegated camellias. Camellia leaves are phototropic; they need light but cannot tolerate strong light. It is best to provide sufficient sunlight while supplementing with a certain amount of direct light. Avoid scorching sun exposure that burns the leaves, and about 50% shading can be used as an appropriate measure. Most cultivars remain in a dormant state in branches and stems under short-day conditions (less than 8h); flower bud differentiation requires more than 13h of light per day; the opening of flower buds requires short days, and too long a day length easily causes a large number of flower buds to drop.
Temperature Management
Every camellia needs suitable temperatures during its growth period. The suitable temperature for most camellia growth is 15-25°C, with a summer maximum not exceeding 36°C and a winter minimum not lower than -10°C; otherwise, severe dehydration and freezing damage easily occur. Generally, sprouting begins when the temperature rises above 10°C, and growth stops above 30°C. If both day and night temperatures are controlled at 27°C, a large number of flower buds can be produced; when day and night temperatures reach 16-18°C, flowering is best. In hot southern regions, during summer high temperatures, attention should be paid to misting and shading measures to lower the microenvironment temperature; in cold northern regions, winter protection against freezing is needed, and facilities such as greenhouses, plastic tunnels, and ground covers can be used to protect potted camellias through winter safely; otherwise, camellia leaves, flower buds, and branches will be frostbitten, drop, or even die, and in severe cases the stems and roots will also suffer freezing damage, causing the whole plant to die.
Fertilization Management
Reasonable fertilization plays a decisive role in the number of camellia flowers. For potted camellias, because the amount of potting soil is small, fertility is limited and easily consumed, so fertilization must be continuously supplemented to meet the nutritional needs of camellias at each growth stage. Camellias are generally grown mainly with organic fertilizers, such as cake fertilizer, human and livestock manure and urine, and compost. This kind of fertilizer releases nutrients slowly, has a long fertilizer effect, is not easily lost, and is safe to use. However, organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed before application, and fertilization should follow the principle of small amounts applied frequently. When applying chemical fertilizers, nutrients are released quickly but do not last, are easily lost after watering, and excessive application easily causes fertilizer burn. According to the different growth stages of camellias, fertilizers with different components should be selected. Nitrogen fertilizer can promote the growth of camellia leaf buds and flower buds, phosphorus fertilizer can promote camellia root formation and flower color vividness, and potassium fertilizer can promote robust camellia growth and root development. Some studies have shown that if a compound fertilizer is applied with nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium contents of 26%, 20%, and 20% respectively, it is especially suitable for camellia growth and development. Note that fertilization must, at different growth stages, be applied in a timely, appropriate, and proper way in combination with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and various trace element fertilizers to achieve the best results. For example, in March before the spring shoots sprout, apply more nitrogen fertilizer to promote rapid, robust seedling growth; in June during flower bud formation, apply more phosphorus fertilizer to promote flower bud differentiation; after September during flower bud formation and the flowering period, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, with the fertilization interval greater than 10-15d, to promote plump flower buds and vivid flower color.
Flowering Period Control
Flowering period control is mainly achieved through cultivar selection, temperature control, and hormone treatment to advance or delay flowering. To achieve earlier flowering, select early-flowering cultivars and use heavy fertilization plus hormone treatment: after spring camellia growth stops and flower buds form, apply heavy fertilizer so that the tender branches after flowering become full and mature early; in July and August, spot-apply 0.05%-0.1% gibberellin to the flower buds once every 3d; in September, depending on the plumpness of the flower buds, spot-apply gibberellin again and spray water and apply additional fertilizer, which can advance flowering to September-November. To achieve delayed flowering, select late-flowering cultivars, subject them to low-temperature control, and appropriately reduce the amount of fertilizer, which can delay flowering by about 30d.
▎Pruning and Maintenance
Pruning and Shaping
Pruning can be divided into thinning and dwarfing. Thinning is when the branches inside the plant are too dense, cutting from the base the dead branches, diseased branches, dense branches, crossing branches, overlapping branches, parallel branches, and so on. When thinning, the cut should be flush with the base of the branch to speed wound healing. Dwarfing is to limit the endless growth of branches, prompt the axillary buds below the cut to sprout, grow side branches, increase flowering sites, and make the plant shape fuller. When pruning, attention must be paid to maintaining balance among the main branches so that the trunk, branches, and leaves all have space to grow. During shaping pruning, choose side buds facing outward, and after pruning the plant shape will be more compact; for camellia cultivars with chaotic growth, prune frequently, and it is not advisable to prune too heavily at one time.
Pinching and Tip Cutting
Pinching is removing the terminal bud or tender shoot of a branch, and tip cutting is cutting off aged branch tips. After the growth point of the main branch is removed, the plant can be restricted from continuing to grow taller, and it can also stimulate axillary buds to sprout and produce more side branches. After side branches are pinched, more secondary side branches can form, multiplying the flowering sites, helping adjust the plant's overall growth trend, and at the same time dwarfing the plant. Through several years of pruning and shaping, the distribution of camellia branches, stems, and leaves can be made more reasonable, the plant shape beautiful, the flowers uniform, and the blooms large and vivid, enhancing the overall ornamental value of the camellia.
Bud Removal and Bud Thinning
Bud removal is removing the axillary buds on camellia branches, retaining individual sprouts favorable to the tree shape and growth, and concentrating nutrients to supply their sprouting into side branches and differentiation into flower buds, bud setting, and flowering. Bud thinning is to ensure flower quality and reduce the number of flower buds on the whole plant. Generally, only one main bud is retained on each branch, and the other side buds are removed. Flower buds and flower buds on inner branches and centripetal branches are also removed to avoid dispersing nutrients, so that the flower buds become plump and the flower color vivid.
▎Pest and Disease Control
Anthracnose
It mainly harms long leaves and old leaves. The lesions are irregularly round or water-soaked brown concentric spots, with a radius of 5-15mm. Diseased leaves turn yellow, dry up, and fall off very easily. It generally occurs from May to July. Once found, promptly cut off diseased branches and leaves and burn them. Pay attention to loosening the soil, weeding, and pruning, maintain ventilation and light transmission, and reduce environmental humidity. Affected plants can be sprayed with 70% thiophanate-methyl at 800-1,000 times dilution or 75% chlorothalonil at 600-800 times dilution, once every 7d, for 4-5 consecutive sprays. Removing old and diseased leaves before spraying can improve control results [4].
Brown Spot Disease
At first, needle-sized light green or reddish-brown small spots appear on the leaves, gradually expanding into round or irregular large spots. The upper surface of the leaf is darker and the underside lighter. On moist diseased areas, gray-black mold spots appear on the surface, with reddish-brown edges, slightly raised. In humid environments, brown granular spore masses can be squeezed out from the mold spots, and the diseased tissue can tear the leaf or fall off in a perforated manner. Once found, promptly remove diseased leaves and branches and burn them centrally. In hot summer, pay attention to maintaining ventilation and light transmission. During the disease period, spray 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500-600 times dilution or Bordeaux mixture (1:100), once every 7d, for 3-4 consecutive sprays; you can also use 50% amobam at 800-1,000 times dilution, sprayed once every 3-4 weeks, and 3 sprays can cure it.
Scale Insects
For scale insects on individual branches or leaves, scrape them off with an old toothbrush or bamboo strip. If the infestation is severe, cut off the damaged leaves and burn them. Usually, spray 40% omethoate at 1,500 times dilution or 8% abamectin at 2,500 times dilution, once every 7d, and 3-4 sprays can cure it.
Red Spiders
They are mainly caused by high temperature and low humidity, with summer being the peak period. Pay attention to maintaining ventilation and spraying water to increase environmental humidity. Usually, spray 40% omethoate or 40% dicofol at 1,200-1,500 times dilution for control.
References
[1] Li Jie, Zhu Xiaoguo. Cultivation and management techniques for potted camellias [J]. China Horticulture Abstracts, 2013(1):150-151.
[2] Liu Siye. Growth habits and cultivation techniques of camellias [J]. Anhui Agricultural Science Bulletin, 2009, 15(10):254-255.
[3] Chen Hua, Pan Hong, Lin Fangxi, et al. Camellia [M]. Fujian: Fujian Science and Technology Press, 2003.
[4] Zhang Suibang. Garden Plant Protection [M]. Beijing: China Agriculture Press, 2001:87-88.A Preliminary Study on Cultivation and Maintenance Techniques for Potted Camellias
Camellia (Camellia) growth requires specific conditions of temperature and humidity, light, and soil. Because potted camellias are limited by their growing space and environment, daily management such as watering, fertilizing, and pruning should be more meticulous and thorough, and special protective measures such as shading, ventilation, preventing waterlogging, and heat preservation should be taken in a timely manner. Repot and change soil in a timely manner.
Camellia, with aliases such as camellia, tea flower, mandala tree, late camellia, nai dong, zha, foreign tea, sou chun, and mountain camellia, belongs to the genus Camellia in the family Theaceae and is one of our country's special products. It is mainly distributed in eastern and southeastern Asia, roughly between longitude 80°-145°E and latitude 40°N to 9°S, at altitudes of 50-3,000 m. In our country, it is mainly distributed under the forests of mountain ridges and valleys south of the Qinling Mountains to the Huaihe River basin. Jinhua camellias are famous far and wide, with a cultivation history of nearly 800 years. There are many local cultivars, with large and brilliantly colored flowers, and they bloom in winter when few flowers are available, so they are deeply loved by people. As one of the characteristic garden flowers, camellias have been widely used in landscaping construction. In particular, with the improvement of people's living standards, camellias have gradually become part of indoor flower growing, and potted camellias have emerged accordingly. However, their specific geographical distribution determines the specificity of their growing conditions. Because potted camellias are grown in flower pots of a specific size, their growing space is extremely limited, and most are placed in front of and behind houses, on balconies and terraces, or grown in plastic tunnels, so the temperature, humidity, and light conditions differ greatly from those of field planting. Therefore, potted camellias should be managed more meticulously and thoroughly than field-planted camellias in daily watering, fertilizing, and pruning, and at specific times protective measures such as shading, ventilation, preventing waterlogging, and heat preservation must be taken in a timely manner, and repotting and soil changing must be carried out in a timely manner.
▎Ecological Habits
Light and Temperature
In the wild, camellias are semi-shade plants under arbor forests, suitable for growing under diffused light, and afraid of direct sunlight exposure; otherwise, leaf scorch and even twig withering easily occur. Seedlings and young plants prefer shade even more, but too much shade will lead to poor growth, sparse branches and leaves, bud drop, few flowers, and small flowers; mature and old trees need more light than young trees. Camellia is a long-day plant and needs to go through a stage of long days (13.5-16 hours) and relatively high temperatures (20-30°C), which can promote an increase in hormone content in the plant body, thereby breaking dormancy and promoting vegetative growth and flower bud differentiation; it also needs to go through a stage of short days (8-9 hours) and low temperatures (winter temperatures 0°C-10°C), which can promote flowering. Under constant warm conditions that are neither cold nor hot, camellias find it very difficult to flower. Large diurnal temperature variation is beneficial to camellia flower bud differentiation. Camellias like a warm environment, and neither extreme heat nor severe cold is suitable. Overall, the most suitable growth temperature is 20°C-25°C; at 30°C new shoots stop growing; if it reaches 35°C, the leaves will show scorching. Camellias also have a certain cold tolerance. Generally, camellias can tolerate a low temperature of -10°C without freezing damage. Potted plants have weaker cold tolerance than field-planted plants, and when the temperature drops to -5°C or the potting soil freezes, the plant is at risk of death.
Humidity
The origin of camellias is mostly coastal hills and islands. These areas are affected by abundant precipitation and ocean transpiration and have high environmental humidity year-round. An air relative humidity of 70%-80% is best. If the environment is too dry, camellias easily lose water and easily drop leaves and buds.
Soil
Camellias prefer acidic soil that is fertile, high in organic matter, deep, loose, and has both good water retention and good drainage. They can generally grow normally within a pH range of 4.5-6.5, with the most suitable pH being 5-6. They grow poorly in neutral soil, and alkaline or overly acidic soil is not suitable for growth. Camellias like fertilizer but are not tolerant of fertilizer and do not like concentrated fertilizer. For potted camellias, choose podzolic soil and mountain red-yellow soil containing more organic matter, or prepare a suitable growing medium so that acidity and alkalinity, fertility, and air permeability all meet good requirements, to promote lush growth.
▎Daily Work
Watering
Because of the limitations of their growing space, potted camellias make watering inevitably one of the frequent and indispensable tasks in daily maintenance. Field-grown camellias generally do not need watering, but in summer, during high-temperature and low-rainfall seasons, observe carefully and water for drought resistance when necessary, at minimum keeping the roots moist. For potted camellias, generally grasp the principle of "do not water until dry, and when dry, water thoroughly," and preferably use river or lake water. The simplest way to judge dryness and moisture is to look at the color of the potting soil surface: water when the color changes from dark to white; you can also touch the potting soil surface with your finger and water when it becomes hard. When watering, strictly follow the above watering principles. Dry pots on the same day must be watered that day, and must be watered thoroughly, with water seeping out from the bottom of the pot as the standard. Pots that seep too quickly should be watered repeatedly 1-3 times to prevent the potting soil from not being fully soaked. Pots that are not dry that day should not be watered. Absolutely avoid watering all of them indiscriminately; otherwise, over time, excessive moisture can very easily cause root rot and plant death. During the growing period and flowering period, water demand is greater; when growth vigor is strong, water demand is high, so it is best to check and water frequently. When new shoots sprout in spring, do not spray water on the branches and leaves, because the turn of spring and summer is a period when camellia diseases occur frequently, and it is easy to spread pathogens or viruses into leaf tissues. In summer, when it is hot, it is best to water before 10 a.m. or after 4 p.m., and you can also appropriately spray water on the leaf surface, but it is not advisable to use leaf spraying to replace watering in the pot, because this very easily causes missed watering or incomplete watering, resulting in wet top and dry bottom, making the plant wilt from lack of water. Over time, this causes poor growth or even death. In winter, when the dry and wet colors of the potting soil surface are similar, observe carefully and judge whether watering is needed. The best watering time is at noon when the temperature is relatively high.
Fertilization
Camellias like fertilizer but avoid concentrated fertilizer, and the principle of timely, thin fertilizer applied frequently should be grasped. Commonly used fertilizers include decomposed cake fertilizer (rapeseed meal, soybean meal), compound fertilizer, and organic-inorganic compound fertilizer. From flower bud differentiation to bud setting and flowering, camellias need about 8-9 months. Reasonable fertilization is the key link to making camellias flourish with abundant leaves and flowers. The specific fertilization method is as follows: camellias generally do not go dormant after flowering, so choose the period when the camellia population's flowering is nearly over and new buds have not yet sprouted, and apply a fertilizer mainly of nitrogen once. From May to August, when new branches mature and flower buds differentiate, apply additional compound fertilizer mainly of phosphorus, once a month or once every half month. In the June rainy season, apply rapeseed meal once, using both organic and inorganic fertilizers to meet the plant's bud-setting needs. In October-November, camellias undergo their second growth peak, so apply additional compound fertilizer mainly of phosphorus and potassium once a month, and in October apply rapeseed meal once more to promote rapid expansion of flower buds. Around the Spring Festival, camellias enter full bloom, so apply compound fertilizer or organic-inorganic compound fertilizer once a week to give the flowering period strong staying power and at the same time ensure good growth the following year. Decomposed rapeseed meal can be applied at 0.1-0.2 kg per plant each time. Rapeseed meal can also be applied directly without decomposition in the form of piles, but it must not cover the entire pot surface and must not directly touch the stem base or roots. It should be placed 15-20 cm around the roots in 2-3 piles, at 0.25-0.4 kg per plant. After application, sprinkle water on the surface to wet and rot the cake fertilizer into clumps. Compound fertilizer is applied at 50-80 g per plant each time, depending on plant size as appropriate, and compound mixed fertilizer can be appropriately increased in amount.
Pest and Disease Control
① Aphids
One of the most commonly occurring pests. Except in severe winter cold, they cause varying degrees of damage. They mainly occur on tender leaves, tender branches, and buds, causing camellia leaves to wrinkle, curl, and even fall off. This pest is both easy to develop and easy to treat. It can be sprayed and killed with 40% omethoate diluted at 1,000-1,500 times. Dichlorvos, pyrethroids, and others can also be used to control it effectively. 2.3.2 Scale insects
One of the common pests. They often gather on camellia branches and leaves, feeding on sap. In severe cases, they cause branch withering or the death of the whole plant, and their secretions can also induce sooty mold. If scale insects are found on individual branches or leaves, gently brush them off with a soft brush, or combine with pruning and cut off infested branches and leaves. They must be brushed clean, cut clean, and burned centrally; never throw them away casually. According to the various occurrence situations of scale insects, during the peak nymph period, spray with 40% omethoate at 1,000 times dilution, or 50% dichlorvos at 1,000 times dilution, or 2.5% deltamethrin at 3,000 times dilution. Spray once every 7-10 days, for 2-3 consecutive times.
② Mites
A common one is the short-whiskered mite, also known as the red spider. Adults and nymphs pierce their mouthparts into leaves to suck sap, damaging the chlorophyll of the affected leaves. Yellow spots or patches appear on the leaf surface, causing irreversible diseased leaves, affecting the plant's appearance and even causing leaf drop. The main disease occurrence time is during the high-temperature, high-humidity period from July to October. If placed in a multi-span plastic tunnel or other semi-enclosed environment with poor ventilation, this pest is even more likely to occur and the damage is more severe. Therefore, the work of controlling red spiders brooks no delay. Usually observe carefully. When individual leaves are damaged, remove the infested leaves; when more leaves are affected, spray pesticide early, and during the peak period insist on spraying pesticide once a week or once every half month. Commonly used pesticides include abamectin, propargite, dicofol, omethoate, Huachongjing, fenvalerate, and others.
③ Tea Carpenter Moth
One of the common pests. Often in August-September, larvae bore into stems or branches to feed, causing the damaged branches or the entire plant to wither and break, causing great harm to camellias. Our commonly used and effective method is to locate their position through the insect frass, wood shavings, and other excrement discharged from the bore holes, directly eliminate them, or use cotton dipped in dichlorvos or omethoate solution and insert it into the insect hole, then seal it with wet mud to kill the larvae.
④ Others
In addition to the above diseases, pests such as the flat stinging moth, leaf roller moth, and small green leafhopper, as well as diseases such as anthracnose, sooty mold, and algal leaf spot, may also occur. This requires us, during ordinary maintenance, to observe more, pay more attention to management and care, and detect and treat them promptly.
Pruning
It is especially necessary for potted camellias. Pruning is generally carried out after flowering. Leggy branches can be pruned at any time during the growing period. Potted camellia shaping is divided into dormant-period and growing-period types. Each has advantages and disadvantages, and can be determined according to specific circumstances. Dormant-period shaping mainly lowers the height of individual branches and adjusts the spacing between branches, thereby achieving a beautiful plant shape. Growing-period shaping is easier to operate because the sap is already flowing, and after pruning the new branches have already grown, so it will not stimulate the sprouting of lower latent buds (because nutrient accumulation is limited, they often no longer have the strength to sprout). This greatly reduces the crown width of plants that are in small pots with large plant shapes and no longer suitable for repotting into a larger pot (too large a pot is inconvenient to move), improving their appearance. The obvious effects of pruning and shaping are: more new buds sprout, and they are robust; extension growth is obvious; and the overall plant height is reduced. Even more gratifying is that lower latent buds are stimulated to sprout, making up for the regret of gaps in the lower branches and achieving a compact, full plant shape. Ventilation and light transmission improve, and pests and diseases decrease accordingly. Through pruning, the time between repotting and soil changing for potted camellias can also be extended, greatly reducing the probability of poor growth due to long periods without repotting. In addition, pruning can also be a good method for rejuvenating camellia plants. For some degraded grafted camellia seedlings, we carry out heavy pruning, leaving a small amount of branches and leaves while maintaining a complete tree shape. Because their nutrients are supplied in a concentrated way, they recover growth and become lush.
Bud Thinning
The nutrition supplied by the potting soil of potted camellias is limited. If left to nature without bud thinning, because there are many flower buds and insufficient supply, the buds develop poorly, the flowers are not large, the flower color is poor, and the tree body weakens after flowering, affecting post-flowering vegetative growth and the quality of flowering the following year. Therefore, bud thinning should be done even more promptly. The best time for bud thinning is July-September. Remove overly small buds, weak buds, inward-facing buds, deformed buds, and overly dense buds, so that each strong branch retains one bud. For cultivars with dense branches such as Songhuapian, Huaheling, and Yuanyangfengguan, if one bud per branch is still relatively dense, thin buds again, so that each 10-20 branches retain 1-2 buds. When thinning buds, retain a certain number of large, medium, and small buds rather than only keeping large buds, to help prolong the flowering period.
Repotting and Soil Changing
Because the pot size for potted camellias is limited, over time the potting soil hardens and the nutrients it can provide become increasingly insufficient, so camellia growth will be inhibited. Therefore, repotting and soil changing must be done in a timely manner, generally once every 2-3 years. Before repotting, control watering in advance, and repot when the potting soil is dry, which facilitates removing the root ball from the pot and prevents the potting soil from loosening and damaging the roots. New pots should be soaked in water for about 12 hours in advance to remove their fiery nature. Old pots should be soaked and disinfected in a fungicide solution before reuse. For the soil ball removed from the pot, part of the old soil can be removed, but try to damage the roots as little as possible or not at all. When repotting, add a layer of well-drained substrate at the bottom, such as small stones or coarse sand grains, and add a thin layer of nutrient soil on top of it. The soil used for camellias can be weathered acidic fine soil mixed with decomposed organic fertilizer. If conditions permit, coarse fibrous peat soil + perlite can be used for cultivation. As long as it is loose and breathable, well-drained, and weakly acidic, it is fine.
▎Protective Measures
Shading and Heat Preservation
Because camellias like warmth and half shade and cannot tolerate extreme heat or severe cold, and potted camellias even more so, they should be shaded during the summer high-temperature period. For shading, a shade net frame with a 40%-60% shading rate can be used. During the winter low-temperature period, Yunnan camellias, golden camellias, clasping camellias, azalea camellias, and others must be moved into a greenhouse to overwinter for warmth. Otherwise, flower and bud drop and even plant death easily occur. Local camellia cultivars, whether potted or field-planted, can overwinter smoothly without heat preservation.
Preventing Waterlogging
Although camellias like moisture, they avoid waterlogging in the potting soil, and most of all avoid roots being soaked in water for a long time or poor aeration and drainage in the potting soil. Therefore, special attention should be paid during the plum rain season or ordinary rainy days: always check the water accumulation situation of potted camellias, and once water accumulation is found, drain it promptly. Otherwise, the plant is very likely to die.
Ventilation
Ventilation has an obvious effect on camellia growth and development. It can promote photosynthesis, regulate air temperature and humidity, improve transpiration efficiency, and strengthen the root absorption function. Therefore, pay attention to placing potted camellias in an environment with moderate air movement, with a light breeze being best, but also avoid strong winds and cold winds. At the same time, repot and change soil in a timely manner, prevent waterlogging, and maintain the breathability and ventilation of the microenvironment in the camellia pot, ensuring that potted camellias grow healthily and robustly.
Others
In addition to the measures above, camellia cultivation and management should also include regularly clearing weeds, maintaining the sanitation of the growing area, and frequently loosening the soil on the pot surface. With deepening practice and increasingly mature cultivation techniques, potted camellias will surely bloom more brilliantly and appear more widely in people's view.
References
[1] Chen Shaoyun. Zhejiang Camellias [M]. Zhejiang Science and Technology Press, 1985: 4-14.
[2] Xia Quansheng. Camellias [M]. Shanghai Science and Technology Press, 2000, 23-25: 162-174.
[3] Chen Youmin. Landscape Dendrology [M]. China Forestry Press, 1990: 573-584.Propagation and Cultivation Techniques of Camellia
I. Propagation Techniques
1. Cuttings. In the rainy season from May to June, select a young mother tree and cut a one-year-old softwood shoot about 10 cm long from the tip. Remove the lower leaves, trim the base flat below a node with a blade, keep one terminal bud and one lateral bud at the tip along with 2-3 leaves, and insert into a medium of river sand or gravel to a depth of 1/3 to 2/3 of the shoot length. After inserting, cover with straw curtains for shade, increase leaf surface misting, and maintain air humidity in the cutting bed to promote rooting. To improve the survival rate of cuttings, soak the cuttings in a 50-100 mg/kg ABT rooting powder solution for 8-12 hours.
2. Grafting. Select vigorous seedlings or camellia varieties that root easily from cuttings as rootstock. Cut the rootstock off at about 4-5 cm above the ground, split it through the pith to a depth of about 1.5 cm, and use 1-2 year old branches as scions. Keep 1-2 leaves on the upper part of the scion, cut the lower part into a wedge shape, insert it into the split opening of the rootstock, ensuring the cambium layers of both sides closely meet, then bind tightly with plastic tape.
After grafting, cover the scion with a plastic bag and tie it at the bottom with a string, but not too tightly, so that water droplets form inside the bag and continuously drip onto the rootstock. Then put a paper bag over the outside of the plastic bag to shade it from direct sunlight.
3. Bud cuttings. Take each bud node as a segment, keep one leaf, about 1.5 cm long, cut the lower part at an angle, then insert into the medium, with the depth just covering the branch. This method makes full use of branches and is suitable for large-scale propagation needs.
II. Open-Field Planting
1. Soil selection. Choose fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic loam soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.
2. Planting time. Spring planting from February to March is mainly for small seedlings; autumn planting after November gives better results.
3. Fertilization. Camellias do not like heavy feeding. Generally, fertilize 2-4 times before flowering in October to November and after flowering in April to May. Use mainly compound fertilizer and compost, combined with an appropriate amount of phosphate fertilizer. The principle of fertilization is to apply lightly and frequently. Apply more to strong seedlings, less or none to weak seedlings.
4. Pruning. Camellias grow slowly and should not be heavily pruned; since the canopy develops evenly, no special pruning is needed either. Simply remove diseased, pest-infested, overly dense, weak, and leggy branches. For newly planted seedlings, moderate pruning may also be done to ensure survival. Bud thinning is an important part of cultivation and management. Generally, keep at most 3 flower buds per branch and maintain a certain spacing, which can reduce excessive nutrient consumption by the plant and affect flowering. The flowering period of camellias lasts up to half a year. Promptly removing wilted flowers is greatly beneficial for reducing nutrient consumption and strengthening the tree's vigor.
5. Pest and disease control and hoeing/weeding. The main diseases of camellias are brown spot disease and chlorosis. Pests include red spiders, various scale insects, slug moths, and rose sawflies. The occurrence of pests and diseases greatly affects the tree's vigor and ornamental value. Control methods are as follows: for brown spot disease, spray Bordeaux mixture before spring bud break, then continue spraying every half month for prevention, and pay attention to drainage and fertilization, remove and burn infected leaves. Chlorosis is mainly caused by a lack of trace elements in the soil, and can be prevented and controlled by regularly applying ferrous sulfate or magnesium sulfate solution. For red spiders and various scale insects, spray pine resin mixture and strengthen ventilation. For various slug moths, rose sawflies, etc., spray with 40% omethoate at 400-155 times dilution or 80% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate at 1000-1200 times dilution. Hoeing and weeding and cleaning the garden can also effectively prevent and control pests and diseases, strengthen tree vigor, and make flowers larger. Hoeing and weeding should be done 6-7 times throughout the year.
III. Pot Cultivation
1. Pot soil selection. Choose a slightly acidic, loose, fertile mixed soil as the pot soil. The mixing ratio is 6 parts garden soil, 3 parts pine leaf humus soil, and 1-2 parts sandy soil.
2. Pot selection. Clay pots are best for cultivation. The ratio of pot size to seedling is: for a camellia with a plant height of 40-50 cm and a crown width of 20-25 cm, the pot diameter should be about 20 cm. Other sizes follow the same pattern. For commercial seedlings, purple clay pots are better as they enhance the ornamental effect.
3. Pot seedling selection. Choose plants that are vigorous, with a single trunk and no branches, a beautiful canopy, tender green leaves, and free of pests and diseases.
4. Watering management. For newly planted seedlings, water thoroughly the first time, then water frequently within 2 months to keep the pot soil moist. Afterward, water as with other potted flowering plants. The frequency depends on climatic conditions, with the aim of keeping the soil moist. Water more in spring to meet the needs of sprouting and shoot growth; in summer, water in the morning and evening; in the rainy season, prevent water accumulation; in autumn drought, water promptly; in winter, to prevent freezing, water at noon.
5. Shading and cold protection. Camellias need plenty of sunlight in spring and during the rainy season, and should be shaded and cooled in summer and autumn; when the temperature drops to zero in winter, they need to be moved indoors for cold protection.
6. Flowering period control. This is mainly achieved through variety selection, temperature control, and hormone treatment to advance or delay flowering. For example, to delay flowering, choose late-flowering varieties and subject them to low-temperature control (store plants wrapped for cold protection in a cold storage at 2-3°C or above), which can delay flowering by one month. To advance flowering, choose early-flowering varieties such as Xiaotaohong and Xueta. If the requirements are not met, apply penicillin by spot-dabbing as appropriate, accompanied by water spraying and supplementary fertilization. The method is: after spring growth stops and flower buds form, apply heavy fertilizer to help the new shoots after flowering become fully developed and mature early and stop growing early; in mid-July or early August, use a brush to spot-dab 500-1000 mg/kg gibberellin onto the flower buds once every three days, accompanied by reasonable water and fertilizer; in September, depending on the plumpness of the flower buds, apply gibberellin again. If fertilizer is adequate, the flower buds will grow rapidly and can bloom early from late September to November. (Author: Wang Longsheng)Cultivation Methods and Precautions for Potted Camellias
Growing plants at home to fill one's domestic life with vitality, energy, and elegance has become a popular trend nowadays. Among these, camellias have become the first choice for many households due to their relative advantages. However, encountering various problems during cultivation is unavoidable. Today, the editor will explain the cultivation methods of camellias to everyone, so that people no longer have to be troubled by their cultivation.
Camellia Cultivation Methods
First, temperature considerations. Camellias are neither cold-tolerant nor heat-tolerant. Their most suitable temperature is 18-25°C, so the ambient temperature should not be too high or too low, otherwise it will affect their growth. Pay special attention in winter: the indoor temperature must be above 3°C; if it drops below 0°C, the plant will suffer frost damage.
Second, light conditions. Camellias dislike strong light, so when planting, be sure to pay attention to sunlight. In spring and autumn, they require sufficient light, but in summer, they must be protected from direct sunlight. If camellias are exposed to strong light for too long, they can easily die. If conditions permit, moving them under a shade canopy is best.
Third, fertilization key points. Camellias are relatively fond of fertilizer, so special attention should be paid to fertilizer application throughout the entire cultivation process, such as adding phosphate and potassium fertilizer when potting. However, fertilization must be moderate and must not be excessive. Generally, fertilize about 3 times during the nearly half year after flowering, and once in winter. To make the flowers more beautiful, it is best to include more phosphate fertilizer in the mix.
Fourth, watering matters. Camellias like a moist environment, so special attention must be paid: not too dry, not too wet, and not alternating between dry and wet. Generally, water more in spring, which helps sprouting. In summer, water twice a day, morning and evening, and it is best to spray the leaf surfaces. Never water when the plant is at high temperature. In autumn, water the same as in spring. In winter, pay attention to watering, preferably before and after the plant's [active period], and do not water every day; once every two or three days is best.
Fifth, branch pruning. Pruning camellias is very important. Generally, cut off branches that affect the tree shape and diseased or weak branches, and also tidy up the flower buds. Once the flower buds are too dense, they should also be thinned out. After flowers wither, they should also be removed promptly to reduce nutrient consumption.
Sixth, repotting camellias. Many people overlook this point. Many people plant them and never repot them again. Actually, this is very wrong. Camellias generally need to be repotted once every two years, and a larger pot should be used, which is beneficial for their growth. The timing of repotting requires special attention; it is best in April. When repotting, be careful not to remove all the old soil entirely, and also add a small amount of base fertilizer, then water.
Seventh, pest and disease control. Camellias are prone to illness. There are mainly two common diseases - black mildew and anthracnose. At this time, simply spray 0.5 degree Bordeaux mixture. The main pest of camellias is the tea shoot moth. At this time, simply cut off the infested shoots.
Eighth, soil requirements. Soil is the foundation of camellia growth. All nutrients and so on for camellias are obtained from the soil, so the soil requirements are quite high. Generally, the soil should have high humus content, with a pH between 5 and 6.5, slightly acidic. The optimal soil formula is: 50% mountain soil, 40% sawdust or edible mushroom residue, and 10% cake fertilizer powder or livestock manure and phosphate fertilizer powder.
Ninth, air circulation. The place where camellias grow has extremely high requirements for air circulation. They grow best in a gentle breeze, but camellias are very afraid of northwest winds and strong winds, because northwest winds and strong winds easily cause water to evaporate too quickly, causing camellias' supply and demand to lose balance, which is not conducive to camellia growth.
Next, the editor will introduce camellia propagation.
First type, sowing
Sowing technology is very common in many professional cultivation gardens, mainly used for breeding new varieties. Generally, when using this method, seeds are collected in December, sown in February-March, and bloom after 3-4 years. When sowing, the soil covering thickness is about 2 cm. They will germinate in one to one and a half months, and can be transplanted the following spring.
Second type, cuttings
This technique can be said to be the most commonly used method now. Generally, in spring, softwood shoots from the tree are used for cuttings. However, one point must be noted: before inserting, the base of the cutting should be soaked in a naphthalene acetic acid solution for about 10 hours, which can greatly increase the rooting rate. After inserting, spray water and shade, and never allow direct strong sunlight. The air humidity should be maintained between 85%-95%, and the surrounding temperature at 25-30°C. In this way, about one month after inserting, new roots will form at the base of the cutting. At this point, gradually reduce shading and increase light. When the seedlings reach 50-80 cm in height, they can be planted out.
Third type, grafting
This technique is somewhat difficult and not something ordinary people can do. The grafting time is generally best from early April to late September. Grafting has many advantages and can artificially improve varieties, but the technical requirements are very high. It is not recommended for home gardeners.
Fourth type, tissue culture
Tissue culture technology is relatively complicated. Generally, the explants include anthers, embryos, buds, etc. It is usually divided into juvenile and mature types, and the culture media for the two are different. For juvenile explants, 0.5-1.0 mg/L of 6-benzylaminopurine can be used; for mature explants, WPM plus 2.0 mg/L of 6-benzylaminopurine and 0.01 mg/L. This method mainly requires attention to the rooting method. The specific procedure is: dip the base of the tender shoot in 1 mg/L indolebutyric acid solution for 15-20 minutes, then inoculate onto a basic medium without growth substances, carry out dark treatment for 10-15 days, and after rooting, transplant and harden off after 20-30 days.
The editor will continue to introduce camellia cultivation tips and precautions, hoping to help you:
Camellia cultivation tip 1: How should pruning be done? When to prune?
Camellias grow relatively slowly, so do not prune excessively. Just remove unnecessary buds. During the flowering period, generally not all flower buds should be kept; they can be adjusted manually, paying attention to the spacing between flowers.
Camellia cultivation tip 2: When should camellias be repotted?
The repotting time for potted camellias is generally in spring. They can be repotted once a year or every two years, with fresh soil. The new pot should preferably be slightly larger than the original one, which is beneficial for camellia growth.
Camellia cultivation tip 3: How should camellias prevent pests and diseases?
Camellias are beautiful but also prone to illness. The main ones are anthracnose and black mildew. Spraying 0.5 degree Bordeaux mixture can be used for prevention and control, and diseased branches can also be cut off.
Camellia cultivation tip 4: What temperature environment should the flowers be placed in?
Camellias are generally placed in an environment of 15-25°C. If the winter temperature is too low, camellias are prone to frost damage, and growers need to take warming measures. In summer, if the temperature is too high, to prevent camellias from dehydrating, water should be frequently sprayed on the leaf surfaces, and shading treatment should be carried out when necessary.
Camellia cultivation tip 5: What kind of soil should be used for planting?
Camellias like slightly acidic soil. The soil should be loose, with good water absorption and drainage. Fertilization should keep up, and new fertilizer should be added in a timely manner, which is beneficial for the growth of camellia roots.
Camellia cultivation tip 6: What kind of sunlight should camellias receive?
Camellia flowers are relatively large, and their growth requires sufficient light.Camellia Cultivation Methods and Precautions
Camellia, also known as camellia, is an evergreen shrub or small tree of the Theaceae family. It originated in China and is one of China's famous traditional flowers, with a few distributions in Japan.
The camellia tree has a graceful form, lush foliage, and clusters of flowers, red as fire and white as jade. Set off by the emerald green leaves, it appears exceptionally delicate and elegant. Camellia flowers are gorgeous but not seductive, and long-lived; the tree is sturdy and upright, evergreen year-round, blooming from February to March, which is precisely the season when fresh flowers are relatively scarce, making it extremely suitable for potted ornamental display. Camellias are also suitable for arrangement in southern parks and gardens, suitable for decorating living rooms and studies, and are very appropriate placed on windowsills and balconies, adding a joyful atmosphere and charm to New Year's Day and Spring Festival.
1. Selection of pot soil and pots for camellia cultivation
According to the growth characteristics of camellias, a slightly acidic, loose, fertile, and well-drained mixed soil should be chosen as the pot soil. Special attention should be paid to good drainage, and calcareous soil must be avoided. The mixing ratio is: 6 parts red soil, 3 parts orchid mud (leaf mold), and 1-2 parts fine sandy soil.
The pot size should be moderate, neither too large nor too small. Generally, the ratio of pot to seedling is: a camellia with a plant height of 40-50 cm and a crown width of 20-25 cm should be planted in a purple clay pot or clay pot with a diameter of about 20 cm. Other sizes follow the same pattern.
2. Potting time for camellia cultivation
The potting time is November in winter and February to March in early spring. At this time, the flower buds are plump and the flowers are in full bloom, making it most suitable for potting. When the flowers are withering and new roots are still germinating, if potting is needed, special care must be taken not to damage the root system. Generally, potting should be stopped around the bud break period, because at this time new shoots are about to emerge and leaves are unfolding, requiring a large amount of water. If potting is carried out, the new roots will be damaged, which can easily affect the growth and development of that year. Potting should also be avoided during high temperatures and severe winter, to prevent the plant from shrinking and dying.
3. Potting method for camellia cultivation
First, place 3-4 pieces of broken tile over the drainage hole at the bottom of the selected flower pot, then fill in some coarse soil, plant the seedling in the pot, fill the root area with fine soil, then slowly fill the larger-grained pot soil around the pot, gently shake the pot, and press with your hand to make the pot soil fit closely against the roots. For large pots, a bamboo stick can be used to gently press down the pot soil, being careful not to damage the roots. The pot soil should account for 4/5 of the pot height to allow for watering.
4. Watering method for camellia cultivation
For newly potted seedlings, the first watering should be thorough, until water comes out from the bottom of the pot.
For newly potted seedlings, keep them moist, and after 2 months they can be watered like other potted seedlings. The frequency of watering depends on climatic conditions, with the principle of keeping the soil moist. Generally, water more in spring to meet the needs of sprouting and shoot growth. In summer, watering should be done in the morning and evening; during the plum rain period, prevent water accumulation; in autumn drought, water promptly; in winter, watering should be done at noon to prevent the pot soil from freezing, as frozen dry soil causes more severe damage.
5. Fertilization method for camellia cultivation
Camellias are not very fond of fertilizer, so there is no need to apply too much. Generally, fertilize 2-4 times before flowering in October to November and after flowering around April to May.
Generally, mixed fertilizer is used (human waste, cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, phosphate fertilizer), preferably with phosphate fertilizer as the main component and nitrogen fertilizer as secondary, to prevent branches from growing leggy and flowers from decreasing. All fertilizers must be fully decomposed before use, but rapeseed cake and fish meal can be directly scattered on the soil surface without decomposition, covered with a thin layer of soil, and left to slowly decompose and seep into the soil for root absorption.
The amount of fertilizer applied should follow the principle of more for strong seedlings and less or none for weak seedlings. For seedlings that are too weak, replacing the pot soil instead of fertilizing also works very well.
6. Shading and cold protection methods for camellia cultivation
Camellias prefer a warm and humid climate; both excessive cold and excessive heat are unfavorable for growth and development. In spring and during the plum rain period, potted camellias should be given plenty of sunlight; otherwise, the branches will develop weakly and be prone to sooty mold and scale insect damage, or moss will grow on the trunk, leading to dead branches, aging, or death. In the high-temperature season of summer and autumn, shade and cool them promptly. When the winter temperature drops below zero, it will cause flower buds to drop or flower cores to freeze, affecting flowering quality. Therefore, potted seedlings overwintering indoors should be kept at around 3-4°C. If the temperature exceeds 16°C, it will promote early sprouting, and in severe cases cause leaf and bud drop.
7. Pest and disease control for camellia cultivation
The main pests of camellias are stem borers and scale insects. The main diseases are anthracnose and sooty mold on the leaf surface, and moss parasitism on branches and trunks. Promptly cut off affected branches and spray pesticides for control.
8. Precautions for camellia cultivation
Camellias should not be heavily pruned. Their flowers, leaves, and buds take a long time to develop, and the canopy forms relatively evenly. Basically, no special pruning is needed; simply cut off diseased and pest-infested branches, overly dense branches, weak branches, and shorten leggy branches.
Camellias are a multi-flowered species, especially on weakened plants. If flower buds are densely packed, they will consume excessive nutrients, which is unfavorable for plant growth. Therefore, bud thinning is an important part of cultivation and management. It is best to keep 1-2 buds per branch, with a maximum of only 3, and maintain a certain distance. The thinned buds can be used for medicinal purposes.
Camellias have a relatively long flowering period, lasting up to half a year. Therefore, promptly removing flowers that are near withering is greatly beneficial for reducing nutrient consumption and strengthening tree vigor.
9. Propagation methods for camellia cultivation
They can be propagated by sowing, cuttings, layering, grafting, and other methods, with cuttings and air layering being the most commonly used.
(1) Cutting propagation: Cutting propagation is mostly carried out from May to June. It is advisable to select vigorous current-year branches as cuttings, cut them into 10-12 cm lengths, keep 2-3 leaves on the upper part, and remove the lower leaves. Insert into a plain sand seedbed or flower pot. River sand or loose mountain soil can be used as the pot soil. After inserting, water thoroughly, then spray appropriately to keep the soil moist, and provide shade. Roots will form in about 60-70 days.
(2) Air layering propagation: Air layering is mostly carried out from April to May. The method is to select a branch from the previous year, girdle the bark at the layering site, with a girdling width of 0.5 cm; wrap the girdled area with a suitably sized plastic film, with a wrapping length of 10-15 cm. First tie the bottom opening tightly, fill with moist culture soil, keep the soil moist regularly, then tie the top opening tightly; after rooting, it can be cut off and planted separately.
Camellia Cultivation and Care Methods
Many flower enthusiasts have potted camellias at home, but how to care for them properly is something they lack experience in. We will introduce them one by one based on several major cultivation key points:
1. Soil is the growth foundation of potted camellias, because the camellia root system depends on soil for growth and development, and the water and nutrients needed for camellia life activities are mainly absorbed from the soil. Camellias like slightly acidic, humus-rich, loose and airy mountain red (yellow) loam soil, with a pH between 5 and 6.5. Alkaline soil or heavy clay soil should not be used as the potting medium for camellias. Soil preparation: 50% mountain soil (cultivated red loam soil), 40% sawdust or edible mushroom residue, and 10% cake fertilizer powder or livestock manure and phosphate fertilizer powder. Mix the three well, add an appropriate amount of water, put in bags to mature. In summer and autumn, mature for more than 20 days; in spring and winter, more than 30 days. This soil is not only loose and airy but also retains fertilizer and water, suitable for camellia growth and development.
2. Camellias need suitable light, but are also afraid of high temperatures and direct sunlight. In spring and late autumn, move camellias to a sunny balcony or ground to receive all-day sunlight, promoting plant growth and development, flower bud differentiation, and sturdy flower buds. When summer brings the strongest sunlight, move the flower pot to a shaded, well-ventilated environment for care. You can also move it to a north balcony or the lower part of a south balcony, or use a 75% shade net to cover the plant from 9 AM to 5 PM, avoiding direct sunlight that causes leaf surface damage or small plant wilting. If conditions permit, move camellias under a shade canopy to safely pass the summer.
3. Temperature is one of the important conditions for camellia growth. Camellias like warmth, with the most suitable growth temperature being 18°C to 25°C and relative humidity of 60% to 65%. For camellia growth, spring shoots generally begin to stir in mid-to-late March, start sprouting in April, form terminal buds in mid-to-late May, stop growing, and gradually differentiate into leaf buds or flower buds. From flower bud formation to flowering takes 180 to 240 days. Summer shoots begin to stir in late July and stop growing in early September. Although camellias are tolerant of low temperatures, if a cold wave invades and the temperature suddenly drops below 0°C or encounters dry northwest strong winds, it will cause frost damage to tender branches, and frozen flower buds will wither. For this reason, move the flower pot to a south-facing, sheltered location for care, so it can safely overwinter.
4. Camellias have many leaves with large leaf area and fast transpiration. Camellias like a relatively humid climate and also like moist soil. Therefore, potted camellias should be given sufficient water. During the spring and autumn growing seasons, water once a day. In summer, especially during the "dog days," water once in the morning and once in the evening. If the ground is dry, also water or spray the ground around the flower pot and its surroundings once or twice to maintain a certain air humidity, and the plant will grow luxuriantly. At the same time, note that due to frequent watering, and most households use tap water, over time the soil in the flower pot will become alkaline. For this reason, when watering, supplement monthly with 0.5% to 1% ferrous sulfate water, or use 5% to 8% edible vinegar solution to spray the leaves. Camellias like moist soil but are afraid of water accumulation in the pot. On rainy days, if water accumulates in the pot, it must be drained promptly to prevent the root system from being soaked in water, suffocating, and rotting.
5. Camellias are fertilizer-loving flowers. Because the tree is vigorous, has many leaves, and a long flowering period, they require a large amount of fertilizer. During fertilization, apply sufficient liquid fertilizer, and combine with repotting to apply sufficient slow-release fertilizer. According to the pot size, apply 3 grams to 80 grams of decomposed cake fertilizer powder or dried chicken and duck manure per pot, placed at the bottom of the pot and mixed with the bottom soil. According to the plant's growth stage, apply additional organic fertilizer. Except during the coldest and hottest times of winter and summer, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once or twice a month. The fertilization method: scrape the soil around the pot edge about 2 fen deep, apply the liquid fertilizer into the groove and immediately cover with soil to avoid odor. You can also apply decomposed cake fertilizer powder at the pot edge and mix it with the pot soil, allowing the flowers to slowly absorb it. Urban flower enthusiasts can buy special flower fertilizer from the flower market, which is both hygienic and safe. To make camellias grow better, during the vigorous growth period, carry out foliar fertilization once or twice a month, spraying the leaves with 0.2% to 0.3% monopotassium phosphate and 1% to 2% plant growth hormone. The principles of fertilization: light rather than heavy, dilute rather than concentrated, less rather than more. Must adhere to the method of light and frequent application, and especially do not apply raw fertilizer.
6. Camellias like to grow in an environment with moderate air circulation. They most enjoy gentle breezes. They like the moisture brought by southeast winds, but are afraid of northwest winds and strong winds, which cause water to evaporate too quickly, causing camellias' supply and demand to lose balance, and branches and leaves to be easily damaged, causing bud and flower drop. In winter, camellias should be placed in a wind-sheltered, sunny environment for care, with a certain temperature and humidity. In spring and autumn, move the flower pot to the balcony, allowing ventilation and light, and gentle breeze swaying. This not only makes the plant grow well but also facilitates flower bud differentiation, flower bud growth and development, and can also reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases. Years of practice have shown that moderate ventilation and suitable light can play a role in preventing pests and diseases.
How to Grow Camellias
Camellia Cultivation Methods and Precautions
First, light conditions. Camellias dislike strong light, so when planting, be sure to pay attention to sunlight. In spring and autumn, they require sufficient light, but in summer, they must be protected from direct sunlight. If camellias are exposed to strong light for too long, they can easily die. If conditions permit, moving them under a shade canopy is best.
Second, temperature considerations. Camellias are neither cold-tolerant nor heat-tolerant. Their most suitable temperature is 18-25°C, so the ambient temperature should not be too high or too low, otherwise it will affect their growth. Pay special attention in winter: the indoor temperature must be above 3°C; if it drops below 0°C, the plant will suffer frost damage.
Third, watering matters. Camellias like a moist environment, so special attention must be paid: not too dry, not too wet, and not alternating between dry and wet. Generally, water more in spring, which helps sprouting. In summer, water twice a day, morning and evening, and it is best to spray the leaf surfaces. Never water when the plant is at high temperature. In autumn, water the same as in spring. In winter, pay attention to watering, preferably before and after the plant's [active period], and do not water every day; once every two or three days is best.
Fourth, fertilization key points. Camellias are relatively fond of fertilizer, so special attention should be paid to fertilizer application throughout the entire cultivation process, such as adding phosphate and potassium fertilizer when potting. However, fertilization must be moderate and must not be excessive. Generally, fertilize about 3 times during the nearly half year after flowering, and once in winter. To make the flowers more beautiful, it is best to include more phosphate fertilizer in the mix.
Fifth, branch pruning. Pruning camellias is very important. Generally, cut off branches that affect the tree shape and diseased or weak branches, and also tidy up the flower buds. Once the flower buds are too dense, they should also be thinned out. After flowers wither, they should also be removed promptly to reduce nutrient consumption.
Sixth, repotting camellias. Many people overlook this point. Many people plant them and never repot them again. Actually, this is very wrong. Camellias generally need to be repotted once every two years, and a larger pot should be used, which is beneficial for their growth. The timing of repotting requires special attention; it is best in April. When repotting, be careful not to remove all the old soil entirely, and also add a small amount of base fertilizer, then water.
Seventh, pest and disease control. Camellias are prone to illness. There are mainly two common diseases - black mildew and anthracnose. At this time, simply spray 0.5 degree Bordeaux mixture. The main pest of camellias is the tea shoot moth. At this time, simply cut off the infested shoots.
Now everyone knows how to grow camellias, and also understands what precautions to take in camellia cultivation, right! Then hurry up and take action!
The experience content is for reference only. If you need to solve specific problems (especially in legal, medical, and other fields), it is recommended that you consult professionals in the relevant fields in detail.
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Camellia Cultivation Methods and Precautions (9 articles in total)
Camellia Cultivation Methods and Precautions, Part One
"Camellia Cultivation Methods"
The camellia root system depends on soil for growth and development, and the water and nutrients needed for camellia life activities are mainly absorbed from the soil. Camellias like slightly acidic, humus-rich, loose and airy mountain red (yellow) loam soil, with a pH between 5 and 6.5. Alkaline soil or heavy clay soil should not be used as the potting medium for camellias. Soil preparation: 50% mountain soil (cultivated red loam soil), 40% sawdust or edible mushroom residue, and 10% cake fertilizer powder or livestock manure and phosphate fertilizer powder. Mix the three well, add an appropriate amount of water, put in bags to mature. In summer and autumn, mature for more than 20 days; in spring and winter, more than 30 days. This soil is not only loose and airy but also retains fertilizer and water, suitable for camellia growth and development.
2. Camellias need suitable light, but are also afraid of high temperatures and direct sunlight. In spring and late autumn, move camellias to a sunny balcony or ground to receive all-day sunlight, promoting plant growth and development, flower bud differentiation, and sturdy flower buds. When summer brings the strongest sunlight, move the flower pot to a shaded, well-ventilated environment for care.
3. Temperature is one of the important conditions for camellia growth. Camellias like warmth, with the most suitable growth temperature being 18°C to 25°C and relative humidity of 60% to 65%. For camellia growth, spring shoots generally begin to stir in mid-to-late March, start sprouting in April, form terminal buds in mid-to-late May, stop growing, and gradually differentiate into leaf buds or flower buds. From flower bud formation to flowering takes 180 to 240 days.
4. Camellias have many leaves with large leaf area and fast transpiration. Camellias like a relatively humid climate and also like moist soil. Therefore, potted camellias should be given sufficient water. During the spring and autumn growing seasons, water once a day. In summer, especially during the "dog days," water once in the morning and once in the evening. If the ground is dry, also water or spray the ground around the flower pot and its surroundings once or twice to maintain a certain air humidity, and the plant will grow luxuriantly. At the same time, note that due to frequent watering, and most households use tap water, over time the soil in the flower pot will become alkaline. For this reason, when watering, supplement monthly with 0.5% to 1% ferrous sulfate water, or use 5% to 8% edible vinegar solution to spray the leaves. Camellias like moist soil but are afraid of water accumulation in the pot. On rainy days, if water accumulates in the pot, it must be drained promptly to prevent the root system from being soaked in water, suffocating, and rotting.
5. Camellias are fertilizer-loving flowers. Because the tree is vigorous, has many leaves, and a long flowering period, they require a large amount of fertilizer. During fertilization, apply sufficient liquid fertilizer, and combine with repotting to apply sufficient slow-release fertilizer. According to the pot size, apply 3 grams to 80 grams of decomposed cake fertilizer powder or dried chicken and duck manure per pot, placed at the bottom of the pot and mixed with the bottom soil. According to the plant's growth stage, apply additional organic fertilizer. Except during the coldest and hottest times of winter and summer, apply decomposed cake fertilizer water once or twice a month. The fertilization method: scrape the soil around the pot edge about 2 fen deep, apply the liquid fertilizer into the groove and immediately cover with soil to avoid odor. You can also apply decomposed cake fertilizer powder at the pot edge and mix it with the pot soil, allowing the flowers to slowly absorb it. Urban flower enthusiasts can buy special flower fertilizer from the flower market, which is both hygienic and safe. To make camellias grow better, during the vigorous growth period, carry out foliar fertilization once or twice a month, spraying the leaves with 0.2% to 0.3% monopotassium phosphate and 1% to 2% plant growth hormone. The principles of fertilization: light rather than heavy, dilute rather than concentrated, less rather than more. Must adhere to the method of light and frequent application, and especially do not apply raw fertilizer.
6. In winter, camellias should be placed in a wind-sheltered, sunny environment for care, with a certain temperature and humidity. Years of practice have shown that moderate ventilation and suitable light can play a role in preventing pests and diseases.
Main Pests and Diseases of "Camellia" and Their Control
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[Control Methods]
① During the peak period of aphid occurrence, spray camellia plants with 50% phosphamidon emulsion at 2000 times dilution or 50% dimethoate emulsion at 1000 times dilution
, spraying once every 3-5 days, for 3 consecutive times, can eliminate aphids. ② Soak 0.5 kg of tobacco stems and 0.25 kg of quicklime in 10-15 liters of water for a day and night, filter out the residue, and use the liquid for spray control, with good results.
Scale insects
[Habits and risks] There are many species of scale insects that attack camellias, the most serious being the cottony cushion scale, the red wax scale, and the chaff scale. Scale insects lay a huge number of eggs, with each female capable of laying around a thousand eggs, and they produce 3 to 5 generations per year. Most overwinter as fertilized females on the branches and leaves, and begin laying eggs and causing damage from March of the following year, mostly congregating on tender branches and leaves to suck out the leaf sap. Affected leaves change from green to grayish green, and finally to yellow; in severe cases the branches and leaves are covered with scale insects, causing the entire plant to wither and yellow until it dies. Their secreted
Camellia growing methods and precautions, part two
"Precautions for Propagating Camellias by Cuttings"
People in Taiwan, China all use cuttings to propagate potted camellias, while grafting is mainly used for making camellia bonsai. He Quanyi, a major camellia grower, says that in Taiwan, China, regardless of variety, as long as the flowers bloom well and the plants grow vigorously, they will sell for a good price. He cuttings more than 300,000 camellia seedlings every year, with an 80% survival rate, earning more than 1 million New Taiwan dollars a year. In recent years, however, domestic camellia propagation has mostly used grafting, while cutting propagation has gradually been marginalized. In my opinion, camellia cutting propagation deserves more attention.
1. Advantages of cutting propagation. 1. Cutting propagation can maintain the inherent traits of fine varieties, so that the propagated offspring are not mixed, and the fine traits of the variety will not change. A cutting comes from an individual part of the same camellia mother plant, and its genetic traits are the same as those of the mother plant. Therefore, camellia cutting propagation can reflect the heredity of the mother plant and maintain the traits and characteristics of fine camellia varieties. In particular, there are many precious varieties of camellia, such as 'Yuanyang Fengguan' and 'Luzhu Qiu', which have no stamens or pistils, cannot be pollinated to set seed, and can only be propagated through cuttings.
2. It can accelerate the propagation of fine camellia varieties, so that fine varieties can be popularized quickly. The cuttings used for camellia are very short, and one branch can be cut into several cuttings, saving propagation material; the cutting season is long, and the sources of cuttings are wide, so seedlings can be grown from seedlings, giving a high propagation coefficient. An adult camellia plant can have a propagation coefficient of more than 1,000 times in one year. Some shrub varieties with dense branching and small leaves can reach more than 2,000 times. For some precious and rare camellia varieties, if propagation methods such as approach grafting, air layering, or seeds are used, they cannot meet the need for accelerated breeding. By using cuttings to grow seedlings, these precious and rare varieties can be propagated quickly.
3. Camellia cuttings have a long lifespan, are easy to manage, and are cheap, suitable for household potted plants; they are the most ideal individual camellia plants and are very popular among camellia enthusiasts. Jinhua, Zhejiang used to cutting tens of millions of cuttings every year; usually each camellia nursery would cutting tens of thousands of cuttings, and the most could reach more than 100,000. After autumn, camellia sellers from all over the country drive large trucks to each household to select fine-variety cuttings. These seedlings cost a few jiao each, and some even a few fen each; they are cheap, easy to transport, and numerous, making it very easy to earn good money. The market potential for cutting rootstock seedlings is also great, because the rootstocks used for grafting are also tree stumps grown from cuttings. Nowadays everyone does grafting, so rootstocks are in short supply and their prices are getting more and more expensive.
2. Time for grafting
Camellia cuttings can be done throughout the year. There are two suitable periods: one is from late May to early July, and the other is from late August to late September, with mid-to-late June and late August to early September being the best. Because camellia cuttings are softwood cuttings, using new branches of the current year as cuttings, you must wait until the new branches are semi-lignified or mature but not yet aged before doing it, so as to achieve a higher survival rate. If the branch is too tender, soon after cuttings the leaf stalk will turn black, and then the leaves will fall off, making success very difficult; if the branch is too old, its division and regeneration capacity decline, and it is not easy to root. Therefore, cuttings earlier than late May or later than September are not suitable. Earlier than late May, except in southern regions where winter temperatures are relatively high and shoots emerge earlier, the spring shoots are too tender; later than September, the spring shoots are too old, and even if summer and autumn shoots can be used, their energy is insufficient, making callus formation and growth at the cut relatively difficult, and unless special management is applied, it is very hard to achieve good results. The reason mid-to-late June to early September is the best period is that at this time the new branches are already semi-lignified or nearly fully lignified, and in terms of energy they can fully meet the needs for healing and rooting; especially in mid-to-late June, this is the plum rain period, when the relative humidity of the air is high and the water transpiration from the cut branches and leaves is low, making it especially suitable for cuttings. In short, the cutting period should be selected according to the most suitable local cutting season, the source of cuttings, and the task you need to cutting. If you are cutting many varieties and large quantities, you can do it in all three seasons: spring, summer, and autumn. For autumn cuttings, because branches are retained after summer cuttings, the cuttings often cannot be trimmed until after mid-October, and after cutting
Camellia growing methods and precautions, part three
"On the Growing Methods of Camellia"
Thesis title: Growing Methods of Camellia Student name:
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Camellia growing methods and precautions, part four
"The Complete Guide to Growing Camellias"
Other loose, fertile mountain soil and sandy soil can be used; alkaline and calcareous soil should be avoided. The growing medium is commonly prepared by mixing 6 parts red soil, 3 parts leaf mold, and 1 part fine river mud, or by mixing 5 parts leaf mold, 4 parts vegetable garden soil, and 1 part river sand. The pot size should be moderate. The pot size for potted camellias should be moderate. Generally, the ratio of pot to plant is: a camellia 40 to 50 cm tall with a crown width of 20 to 25 cm is suitable for planting in a purple clay pot or clay pot with a diameter of about 20 cm.
Potting should be done at the right time. The potting time should be determined according to the camellia variety, generally November in winter and February to March in early spring. At this time the flower buds are plump and the flowers are beginning to open, making it the most suitable time for potting. Remember not to pot when the flowers have faded, and avoid potting in high temperatures and severe winter, so as to prevent the plant from wilting and dying. After potting, the first watering should be plentiful, with water flowing out from the bottom of the pot as the standard.
Temperature and light should be suitable. Camellias are shade-tolerant and like a warm, humid environment. The most suitable growing temperature is 20°C to 25°C, and the most suitable flowering temperature is 10°C to 20°C; when the temperature rises above 22°C, the flowers often drop. After potted camellias are moved outdoors in mid-April, place them in a ventilated, light-transmitting spot. From mid-May, begin maintenance in a shade shed, generally using shade netting, with a light transmission rate of 50%% in spring and autumn and 60%% in summer. On cloudy days, uncover the shade netting to increase light.
Light fertilizer applied frequently is the principle. Camellias relatively like fertilizer, but avoid heavy and concentrated fertilizer; in cultivation and management, the principle is light fertilizer applied frequently. From April to May, when camellia leaf buds sprout and branches and leaves grow, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer mainly of nitrogen 3 to 4 times, about once every week. Fertilizers can include decomposed soybean cake, peanut cake, sauce residue, and so on. In June to July, when camellia flower buds differentiate, apply a mixed fertilizer of nitrogen and phosphorus; the phosphorus fertilizer can be fishy water, decomposed chicken and duck manure, and potassium dihydrogen phosphate. Keep the concentration at about 20%%. Avoid applying too much nitrogen fertilizer. Do not fertilize in August. From September to November, during the flower bud stage, also use mixed fertilizer, applying once a month at a concentration of 15%% to 20%%, but mainly phosphorus fertilizer with nitrogen fertilizer as a supplement, to prevent bud drop. At the end of November, add one application of decomposed fishy water and chicken and duck manure liquid fertilizer, which can make the flowers larger and the color brighter. Generally stop fertilizing during the flowering period.
Prevent disease and control insects in time. The main diseases and pests of camellias include scale insects, red spiders, brown spot disease, and anthracnose. Red spiders and scale insects can be killed by spraying with 40%% omethoate at 1,000 times dilution, or with 25%% phosmet at 800 to 1,000 times dilution, spraying once every week for 2 to 3 times in a row; brown spot disease and anthracnose can be controlled with 40%% amobam at 800 times dilution or 30%% carbendazim at 500 times dilution.
Comment|1091
2013-04-03 15:36 Enthusiastic netizen
Key management points for growing potted camellias: 1. The ratio of pot size to seedling should be appropriate. For the potting soil, it is best to add 1/2 to 1/3 cut pine needles to garden soil, and apply it after 1 year of decomposition; the effect is good. 2. The potting time is November in winter or February to March in early spring; stop potting near the bud-breaking period, and never pot in high-temperature seasons. 3. When newly potting seedlings, water thoroughly, with water seeping through the bottom of the pot as the standard. Usually water moderately.
Watering amount for growing potted camellias: The watering amount should change with the seasons. Around Qingming, the plant enters the growth and sprouting period, so the water amount should gradually increase. After the new shoots stop growing (about late May), watering should be properly controlled to promote flower bud differentiation. June is the plum rain season, so guard against water accumulation; if signs of water accumulation are found, tilt the pot promptly and let it flow away, otherwise it easily causes new roots to rot, leading to the whole plant "green-wilting" and dying. In the high-temperature summer season, leaf surface evaporation is high; for varieties with thin leaves,
Camellia growing methods and precautions, part five
"Precautions for Camellias"
Nitrogen-based fertilizer: this is the habitual idea and practice of quite a few camellia enthusiasts. They believe this can provide sufficient nutrition for camellias, so that the vegetative growth of camellias can be vigorous. In my view, people holding this view are not wrong about applying nitrogen fertilizer, but about the timing of fertilization being inappropriate. In fact, the correct timing for fertilizing should be the period when the mass flowering of camellias is nearing its end and the new buds have not yet sprouted. Because flowering consumes most of the plant's nutrients, and sprouting new buds also requires a certain accumulation of nutrients, and at this time new roots are about to grow, so fertilizing at this time is just right. It not only replenishes what flowering consumed, but also provides a guarantee for the sprouting and growth of new buds; another relatively important point is that camellias generally do not go dormant after flowering, and some varieties directly send out shoots and sprout leaves after flowering. So using the phrase "sending charcoal in snowy weather" to describe fertilizing at this time is most apt. It is not suitable to fertilize at the early sprouting stage, because the newly grown tender fleshy fibrous roots cannot withstand even the watering of light fertilizer, let alone that inexperienced people find it hard to correctly grasp the fertilization concentration, and a slight carelessness easily burns the roots. The beautiful wish to supplement the plant with fertilizer backfires because the fertilization timing is wrong. Therefore, during the spring sprouting period, fertilization timing must be grasped so that the plant can grow normally.
2. Avoid applying concentrated fertilizer during the leaf-expanding period: Applying concentrated fertilizer during the leaf-expanding period seems contradictory to the unsuitable fertilization at the early sprouting stage mentioned above, but actually it is not. Here I mainly mean two things: first, after this fertilization when the camellia's spring mass flowering is nearing its end and the new buds have not yet sprouted, the next fertilization is best done after the new leaves have unfolded and some time has passed, generally 10 to 15 days, specifically applying nitrogen-based fertilizer once or twice more before the new leaves stop growing. The concentration should be light when applying. On the second day after application
Camellia growing methods and precautions, part six
"Camellia Growing Techniques"
Acidic. Camellias have strict soil requirements and must be grown in acidic soil with a pH value less than 6.5. Pine leaf humus soil is better for potting soil, and other loose, fertile mountain soil and sandy soil can also be used; alkaline and calcareous soil should be avoided. The growing medium is commonly prepared by mixing 6 parts red soil, 3 parts leaf mold, and 1 part fine river mud, or by mixing 5 parts leaf mold, 4 parts vegetable garden soil, and 1 part river sand.
The pot size should be moderate. The pot size for potted camellias should be moderate. Generally, the ratio of pot to plant is: a camellia 40 to 50 cm tall with a crown width of 20 to 25 cm is suitable for planting in a purple clay pot or clay pot with a diameter of about 20 cm.
Potting should be done at the right time. The potting time should be determined according to the camellia variety, generally November in winter and February to March in early spring. At this time the flower buds are plump and the flowers are beginning to open, making it the most suitable time for potting. Remember not to pot when the flowers have faded, and avoid potting in high temperatures and severe winter, so as to prevent the plant from wilting and dying. After potting, the first watering should be plentiful, with water flowing out from the bottom of the pot as the standard.
Temperature and light should be suitable. Camellias are shade-tolerant and like a warm, humid environment. The most suitable growing temperature is 20°C to 25°C, and the most suitable flowering temperature is 10°C to 20°C; when the temperature rises above 22°C, the flowers often drop. After potted camellias are moved outdoors in mid-April, place them in a ventilated, light-transmitting spot. From mid-May, begin maintenance in a shade shed, generally using shade netting, with a light transmission rate of 50%% in spring and autumn and 60%% in summer. On cloudy days, uncover the shade netting to increase light.
Light fertilizer applied frequently is the principle. Camellias relatively like fertilizer, but avoid heavy and concentrated fertilizer; in cultivation and management, the principle is light fertilizer applied frequently. From April to May, when camellia leaf buds sprout and branches and leaves grow, apply decomposed liquid fertilizer mainly of nitrogen 3 to 4 times, about once every week. Fertilizers can include decomposed soybean cake, peanut cake, sauce residue, and so on. In June to July, when camellia flower buds differentiate, apply a mixed fertilizer of nitrogen and phosphorus; the phosphorus fertilizer can be fishy water, decomposed chicken and duck manure, and potassium dihydrogen phosphate. Keep the concentration at about 20%%. Avoid applying too much nitrogen fertilizer. Do not fertilize in August. From September to November, during the flower bud stage, also use mixed fertilizer, applying once a month at a concentration of 15%% to 20%%, but mainly phosphorus fertilizer with nitrogen fertilizer as a supplement, to prevent bud drop. At the end of November, add one application of decomposed fishy water and chicken and duck manure liquid fertilizer, which can make the flowers larger and the color brighter. Generally stop fertilizing during the flowering period.
Prevent disease and control insects in time. The main diseases and pests of camellias include scale insects, red spiders, brown spot disease, and anthracnose. Red spiders and scale insects can be killed by spraying with 40%% omethoate at 1,000 times dilution, or with 25%% phosmet at 800 to 1,000 times dilution, spraying once every week for 2 to 3 times in a row; brown spot disease and anthracnose can be controlled with 40%% amobam at 800 times dilution or 30%% carbendazim at 500 times dilution.
Comment|730
2013-04-03 15:36 Enthusiastic netizen
Key management points for growing potted camellias: 1. The ratio of pot size to seedling should be appropriate. For the potting soil, it is best to add 1/2 to 1/3 cut pine needles to garden soil, and apply it after 1 year of decomposition; the effect is good. 2. The potting time is November in winter or February to March in early spring; stop potting near the bud-breaking period, and never pot in high-temperature seasons. 3. New seedlings
Camellia growing methods and precautions, part seven
"Key Points for Growing Camellias"
growth habits and dormancy habits. When should you fertilize and how much? Proper supplementary materials help camellia growth. Too much nutrient will also cause camellia leaves to start turning yellow, roots to start rotting, and eventually it becomes like a toothpick. When you start to notice leaves falling, you should pay attention. Wash the camellia roots clean with water and cut off the blackened roots. Then replace with fresh red soil, and in future care just pay attention to camellia management. Fertilize camellias before May, and after August. In summer, camellias should be in a growth dormancy period. During this process camellias have basically stopped growing. Fertilizing is basically not recommended. But it can be consolidated. After summer rain, you can fertilize to consolidate the camellias. The consolidation in these processes will show results after the camellias finish flowering. After camellias finish flowering, they begin to sprout new buds; this budding period and growth period are basically in early April. During this period, special attention should be paid to the supply of fertilizer for camellias; the supply during this period is related to the growth of the camellia plant and the size of the camellia flowers. The number of flower buds affects the growth of the whole plant; if there are too many flower buds and too many flowers, the whole plant's energy is basically used up in the flowering process. Experienced camellia growers know that such a plant produces very short and small buds during the budding period. Compared with similar strong ones, it is obviously weaker. Blooming too much at one time is equal to demanding three years of its lifespan; obviously, a plant with too many flower buds in the first year will bloom very small flowers in the following years. This energy has been dispersed. To ensure good flowers every year, start removing buds when the camellia shows obvious flower buds. Keep a few flower buds and give proper nutrients, and the flowers that bloom will be very large.
Winter is also the second dormancy period for camellias, and the camellia has stopped growing. At this time the camellia flower buds are already very obvious, and at this time attention should be paid to protecting the camellias from freezing.
If the flower buds are frozen off, all our previous efforts are wasted, and we have to wait until next year to start again. This period is very important. Camellias like sunlight (the sunlight here refers to sunlight under suitable temperatures). Friends who grow flowers on balconies should try to place camellias in a sunny spot to protect the flower buds. There is no need to move the camellias; as a girl, one does not have that good physical strength, and besides, camellias are too heavy. At this time, bud-covering bags play a great role and can be used according to the outdoor winter temperature difference.
Camellias sprout 2 times a year, and some even 3 times. Let me explain specifically: the first batch of buds starts in April after the camellias finish flowering. Here let me insert a short passage about camellia pruning. After camellias finish flowering, camellia pruning can be carried out. At this time, proper camellia pruning can help the overall shape of the camellia plant be better, and also prepare for camellia budding. Camellias are pruned according to different varieties; some grow more when pruned during budding (Rhododendron camellia is a typical representative of this variety). The pruning situation can be decided according to different varieties. The first batch of buds that come up are actually the essence that camellias will contribute to people in one year; those with flower buds are just too small to be identified by the naked eye. At this time, just like a child growing up, they should be given some good material. The number of fertilizations is greatest in April, applying fertilizer about once every week. Newly repotted camellias can also be fertilized. The second batch of buds begins to sprout around late August; this batch of buds is not as neat as the April ones. At this time, according to the overall columnar shape of the camellia, proper pruning of branches and flower buds can also be done. For fertilizer, use some properly diluted human manure.
Growing camellias and enjoying tea is a process; in this process some are happy and some are worried. Camellias should be repotted after growing in the original pot for 3 years, making proper adjustments. Many roots and a small pot: as the camellia plant grows, the root system continuously spreads and gradually fills the pot body. Because the soil in the pot is limited, water and nutrients are insufficient, making it difficult to meet the needs of camellia growth. At this time, a pot one size larger must be swapped in, giving enough space for the camellia roots to grow and release. Here it is worth
Camellia growing methods and precautions, part eight
"Camellia Growing Methods"
-8°C low temperature (natural overwintering; Yunnan camellias are slightly less cold-tolerant); in areas south of the Huai River it can generally overwinter naturally. The cultivation soil for camellias should be on the acidic side and require good air permeability. To facilitate root hair development, peat, decomposed sawdust, red soil, humus soil, or a mixed medium of the above can usually be used for cultivation. Camellias require stronger light than rhododendrons; in spring, autumn, and winter they can go without shading, and in summer 50% shading can be used. Camellias are usually watered with neutral or slightly acidic surface water. Watering should follow the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet; water again when dry, and water thoroughly when watering, but be careful not to let it get too dry. Generally, at the end of spring shoot growth and before flower buds appear, water should be properly withheld to facilitate the transition to reproductive growth, and water cannot be cut off before flowering. / Growing methods. Placement: Camellias are suitable for placement in a warm, humid, ventilated, light-transmitting place. In spring there should be sufficient light; in summer pay attention to shading, avoiding direct sunlight and west-facing sun exposure. If placed on a balcony, they are often accidentally sunburned to death. Watering: The cultivation of camellia bonsai should maintain the soil in a moist state, but not overly wet, to prevent alternating dry and wet conditions. Generally in spring water properly more to facilitate sprouting and shoot growth; in summer insist on watering in the morning and evening, preferably spraying water on the leaf surface so the leaves are soaked through; do not use a sharp stream to water directly or flood-irrigate, do not water with hot water, and avoid watering around midday when temperatures are high; in autumn water moderately; in winter it is best to water around midday, and spray water once every two or three days. Fertilizing: Camellias like fertilizer. When potting, pay attention to placing base fertilizer in the potting soil, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Fertilizers applied include decomposed bone meal, hair, chicken feathers, rice husk ash, poultry manure, and superphosphate. Usually do not fertilize too much; generally apply dilute fertilizer water 2 to 3 times between April and May after flowering, and apply one application of slightly concentrated liquid fertilizer in November in autumn. When using fertilizer, note that the proportion of phosphorus fertilizer should be slightly larger to promote abundant flowers and bright colors. Pruning: Camellias grow relatively slowly, so excessive pruning is not suitable. Generally, just cut off leggy branches that affect the tree shape, as well as diseased, insect-damaged, and weak branches. If there are too many flower buds on each branch, thin the flowers to keep only 1 to 2 and maintain a certain distance, removing the rest early to avoid consuming nutrients. In addition, promptly remove flowers that are near fading, which can also reduce nutrient consumption, helping the plant grow robustly and form new flower buds. Repotting: Camellia bonsai can be repotted once every 1 to 2 years, and the new pot should be one size larger than the old one to facilitate the stretching and development of the root system. Repotting time is best in April in spring, and autumn is also acceptable. Along with changing the soil, properly remove part of the compacted old soil, replace it with fertile, loose new soil, and place base fertilizer at the same time. Pest and disease control: The main diseases of camellias include black mold disease and anthracnose, which can be controlled by spraying 0.5-degree Bordeaux mixture. The main pest is the camellia tip moth; the control method is to cut off the infested tips, generally best done from April to June.
Seven prohibitions for camellia care; camellia is a plant very easily seen in ordinary gardens. Because the dark green leaves are also very beautiful, they can also be used alone as a foil for other flowers. But the flowers easily falling is a shortcoming. One can often see flower beds or pots full of primroses. Do not water too much. Be careful not to let the roots rot. Steps/methods care points: Seven prohibitions for camellia care. 1. Avoid fertilizing at the early sprouting stage. 2. Avoid applying concentrated fertilizer during the leaf-expanding period. 3.
Camellia growing methods and precautions, part nine
"Camellia Growing Methods"
One of the world's famous flowers, it is also the city flower of Chongqing, the provincial flower of Yunnan Province, the city flower of Ningbo, Jinhua, and Wenzhou in Zhejiang, and Jingdezhen in Jiangxi, and the prefecture flower of Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture in Yunnan Province. Because of its graceful plant shape, thick green and glossy leaves, and brilliant and colorful flower forms, it is treasured by the world horticultural community.
Methods for growing camellias at home
1. Placement: Camellias are suitable for placement in a warm, humid, ventilated, light-transmitting place. In spring there should be sufficient light; in summer pay attention to shading, avoiding direct sunlight and west-facing sun exposure. If placed on a balcony, they are often accidentally sunburned to death. In winter they should be placed indoors at a room temperature above 3°C.
2. Watering: The cultivation of camellia bonsai should maintain the soil in a moist state, but not overly wet, to prevent alternating dry and wet conditions. Generally in spring water properly more to facilitate sprouting and shoot growth; in summer insist on watering in the morning and evening, preferably spraying water on the leaf surface so the leaves are soaked through; do not use a sharp stream to water directly or flood-irrigate, do not water with hot water, and avoid watering around midday when temperatures are high; in autumn water moderately; in winter it is best to water around midday, and spray water once every two or three days.
3. Fertilizing: Camellias like fertilizer. When potting, pay attention to placing base fertilizer in the potting soil, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer. Fertilizers applied include decomposed bone meal, hair, chicken feathers, rice husk ash, poultry manure, and superphosphate. Usually do not fertilize too much; generally apply dilute fertilizer water 2 to 3 times between April and May after flowering, and in November in autumn apply 4. Pruning: Camellias grow relatively slowly, so excessive pruning is not suitable. Generally, just cut off leggy branches that affect the tree shape, as well as diseased, insect-damaged, and weak branches. If there are too many flower buds on each branch, thin the flowers to keep only 1 to 2 and maintain a certain distance, removing the rest early to avoid consuming nutrients. In addition, promptly remove flowers that are near fading, which can also reduce nutrient consumption, helping the plant grow robustly and form new flower buds.
5. Repotting: Camellia bonsai can be repotted once every 1 to 2 years, and the new pot should be one size larger than the old one to facilitate the stretching and development of the root system. Repotting time is best in April in spring, and autumn is also acceptable. Along with changing the soil, properly remove part of the compacted old soil, replace it with fertile, loose new soil, and place base fertilizer at the same time.
6. Soil requirements: Soil is the foundation of camellia growth. All the nutrients of camellias and so on are obtained from the soil, so the soil requirements are quite high. Generally the soil should have relatively high humus content, with a pH value between 5 and 6.5, slightly acidic. The best soil formula is: 50% mountain soil, 40% sawdust or edible mushroom residue, and 10% cake fertilizer powder or livestock manure and phosphate fertilizer powder.
7. Air circulation: The place where camellias grow has extremely high requirements for air circulation. It is most suitable for growing in a gentle breeze, but camellias are very afraid of northwest wind and strong wind, because northwest wind and strong wind easily cause water to evaporate too quickly, making the supply and demand of the camellia lose balance, which is not conducive to camellia growth.
Pest and disease control: The main diseases of camellias include black mold disease and anthracnose, which can be controlled by spraying 0.5-degree Bordeaux mixture. The main pest is the camellia tip moth; the control method is to cut off the infested tips, generally best done from April to June.
One application of slightly concentrated liquid fertilizer is enough. When using fertilizer, note that the proportion of phosphorus fertilizer should be slightly larger to promote abundant flowers and bright colors.
Many flower lovers also have potted camellias at home, but they lack experience in how to care for camellias well. We introduce them one by one according to several major growing points:
1. Soil is the growth foundation of potted camellias, because the camellia root system relies on the soil to grow and develop, and the water and nutrients needed for camellia life activities are mainly absorbed from the soil. Camellias like slightly acidic, relatively humus-rich, loose, air-permeable mountain red (yellow) soil, with a pH value of 5 to 1