Is the fuchsia hard to grow? Planting methods and points to note
The fuchsia is also known as the lantern flower; its appearance, just like its name, resembles a golden bell or a lantern, small and lovely, but many flower-growing friends have told the editor that it is especially hard to grow. In fact, as long as you master the planting techniques, you won't find it hard to grow.
The name "fuchsia" really suits this plant very well; the flower shape closely resembles a golden bell, the flower colors are vivid, and it has great ornamental value, making it beloved by many flower enthusiasts. Quite a few flower enthusiasts have tried growing it in pots at home, yet always find it hard to grow well. Below, the editor will share with everyone the planting methods and techniques for the fuchsia.
Soil selection
No matter what flower you grow, soil is the first big thing we need to consider. The fuchsia prefers fertile, loose soil with high fertility. Therefore, Science Xingnong recommends choosing garden soil with a fairly strong sandy texture, in view of looseness and permeability. You can add some more humus to the soil, which not only enhances soil fertility but also greatly improves soil looseness. Many rural flower enthusiasts like to use farmyard manure; Science Xingnong reminds you here that you must be sure to use fully decomposed farmyard manure. Undecomposed farmyard manure not only contains a large number of parasite eggs that breed pests and diseases, but also, due to an excessive amount of nitrogen, can cause seedling burn.
The soil in the pot is not something that stays unchanged after we plant. Science Xingnong believes that a repotting treatment can be carried out once a year, replacing the soil in the pot that has already become compacted, whose fertility is exhausted and declining, with newly prepared soil. The new soil has good looseness and is more fertile, which is more conducive to root aeration, respiration and soil drainage. This thereby reduces the chance of pests, diseases and root rot.
Fertilization issues
As introduced earlier, the fuchsia likes highly fertile soil and cannot tolerate barrenness. Therefore, when preparing new potting soil, in addition to humus, adding an appropriate amount of chemical fertilizer is also a very good choice; however, if you choose chemical fertilizer, be sure to reduce the proportion of nitrogen fertilizer. Science Xingnong recommends choosing cake fertilizer such as soybean meal or peanut meal. This kind of fertilizer not only has a high nitrogen content but can also effectively supplement phosphorus and potassium; its fertilizer effect is released slowly and lasts a long time, making it very suitable for the cyclical growth of the fuchsia.
In ordinary management, there is no need to apply too much additional fertilizer. If cake meal is used as the base fertilizer, then basically little additional nitrogen fertilizer is needed. However, the fuchsia grows fairly fast and will keep blooming continuously, so it is recommended to apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, such as monopotassium phosphate, plus some trace-element fertilizer, about every half a month. Of course, if you see signs of yellowing in the leaf color, it is recommended to apply a small amount of nitrogen fertilizer. Both foliar spraying and root drenching methods can be chosen.
Watering
Science Xingnong has also mentioned the issue of watering many times: apart from some flower species that like moist soil, watering basically follows the principle of "water when dry, stop when wet." In winter, pay attention to watering: when the temperature may drop below 10 degrees, watering should be strictly controlled to avoid cold damage and root rot. And when the hot summer arrives, when the temperature is too high, be sure not to continue applying fertilizer, because in summer the transpiration rate is too high and the soil dries quickly; if fertilizer is applied, the high ion concentration in the soil will cause the plant to dehydrate and will also increase the chance of root rot. During the high-temperature season from June to August, try not to fertilize. Be sure to keep the fuchsia cool, shady and well ventilated!
Pinching
Flower enthusiasts who have grown fuchsias must have worried about how to pinch. Sometimes, seeing it grow very well, they can't bear to pinch it. In fact, you need to understand the purpose of pinching: pinching is to make it grow more robustly, with more branches and leaves and more flowers. Pinching can promote more branching and increase flower bud differentiation.
Therefore, for situations where the plant type is relatively short and there are not enough flower buds, the pinching method must be adopted. Generally speaking, the first pinching can be done when the plant height is around 10 cm, to promote branching. And after autumn, the branches should also be sorted out, and excessively numerous and dense branches should be pruned appropriately. Regarding pruning, grasp one principle: favor more branching and robustness!
The fuchsia has a unique flower shape and very good ornamental value. It can be used to decorate balconies, windowsills, studies and so on. Flower-loving friends, hurry and save the fuchsia planting methods and points to note.
How to grow the fuchsia_Propagation methods and points to note for the fuchsia
The fuchsia is also called the lantern flower or hanging bell begonia. It is a perennial subshrub plant. Its stem is erect. The plant height is generally 50-200 cm and the diameter is 6-20 mm. It is a plant with many branches. Its reverse side has relatively short pubescence and glandular hairs, and the hairs of old plants fall off during growth. The leaves of the fuchsia are opposite and are ovate and narrowly ovate, with a length of 3-9 cm and a width of 2.5-5 cm. The fuchsia is native to Mexico and is now widely planted in various places around the world. It is most widely planted in China, especially in the north, northwest and southwestern plateau regions, as a greenhouse-grown plant. It is suitable as a potted plant, planted on flower stands, desks, flower stands and in guest rooms as an accent plant. Placed in a bottle with clean water, it has very good ornamental value and can be propagated by rooting. Below let us take a look at how to grow the fuchsia, as well as its propagation methods and points to note.
[Introduction to the fuchsia]
The flower shape of the fuchsia is very peculiar and gives a very elegant feeling. It is suitable as a potted plant grown on windowsills, balconies and studies, or hung on security grilles and corridor frames as an ornamental plant. The flower language of the fuchsia is a passionate heart and belief in love; it is a plant that people love very much. There are very many varieties of fuchsia, and the more important varieties include Coral Red fuchsia, Ball-shaped Short-tube fuchsia, Variegated Short-tube fuchsia, Regel's Short-tube fuchsia, White-calyx fuchsia, Long-tube fuchsia, Three-leaf fuchsia and so on; different varieties differ in shape and flower color. The flowering period of the fuchsia is from April to December; the flowering period is very long and it also has very good ornamental value.
[Growth habits of the fuchsia]
The fuchsia likes to grow in a cool and moist environment. It fears direct strong light and is also fairly afraid of high temperatures; it avoids intense summer heat, stuffiness and being rained on or exposed to the sun. It likes to grow in loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil rich in humus. In winter it is suitable to grow in a sunny, warm and moist environment, and it needs very good air circulation. In summer it is suitable to grow in a dry, cool, semi-shaded environment; the humidity of the environment must be ensured, and in summer when the temperature is above 30°C its growth rate slows down, and above 35°C the plant will wither. Also, in winter the temperature must not be lower than 5°C, otherwise the plant will suffer cold damage.
[How to grow the fuchsia]
There are very many cutting methods for the fuchsia, mainly based on stem cutting propagation. Except for hot summer weather, cuttings can be taken throughout the year, and in spring the roots grow very quickly after sowing. Generally spring is from March to May, and autumn is from August to September. You need to choose relatively robust branches for growth, and each section should have two or three stem nodes, then keep a pair of true leaves at the upper position, cut the base diagonally, soak the front part of the plant in potassium permanganate solution for half a minute, then stand it upright and continue soaking the base for 30 minutes, rinse it clean with clean water, put it in water and keep it in clean water for one or two days, and then take the cutting. After cutting, wait until the seedling has rooted before transplanting; the root length must not exceed 2 cm. Put the cutting into plain soil to plant, as this is more conducive to root growth. Plain soil is relatively less irritating to young shoots, which is more conducive to survival. After planting, water thoroughly, then put it in a shallow basin and place it in a semi-shaded environment to grow.
[Propagation methods and points to note for the fuchsia]
1. Soil: The fuchsia is suitable for growing in loose, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil rich in humus; this is more conducive to the growth of the plant.
2. Light: The fuchsia likes to grow in a semi-shaded environment, but its light requirements differ in different seasons. In winter, early spring and late autumn it needs full sun, while in early autumn and early summer it needs half-day sun, and in the hot summer it should be appropriately shaded, so the plant is not easily scorched.
3. Humidity: You can spray water on the leaves of the plant more often, and you can also sprinkle water on the ground of the growing environment, thereby lowering the temperature of the growing environment and thereby increasing moisture.
4. Temperature: The suitable growing temperature for the fuchsia is 10-28°C, and in summer the temperature cannot exceed 30°C. If the temperature is above 35°C, the plant will wither and die. In summer, cooling measures should be done well. In winter, sufficient light should be given, and the temperature cannot be lower than 5°C, otherwise it will cause frostbite to the plant, so keep it warm.
5. Fertilization: The fuchsia grows very fast, blooms very many times, and has a very long flowering period. During the growing period, you can apply some thin fertilizer more often, about every ten days applying thin cake fertilizer or compound fertilizer. Before fertilizing, keep the potting soil on the dry side; after fertilizing, use a relatively fine nozzle to spray water once. The leaves must not get fertilizer water on them, otherwise it will cause rot and scorching.
6. Preventing pest and disease damage: The diseases the fuchsia often encounters are fusarium wilt and rust. You can use carboxin and acetic acid for potted plants to prevent fusarium wilt. Place it in a well-ventilated environment to grow, otherwise aphids, whiteflies and scale insects will appear. When encountering these pests, you can spray with omethoate.
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How to grow the fuchsia: propagation methods and points to note for the fuchsia
The fuchsia is also known as the lantern flower or hanging bell begonia. It is a perennial subshrub, and its flowers resemble hanging golden bells, hence the name. It is suitable for potting as an indoor ornamental plant. Below, follow the editor to take a look at how to grow the fuchsia, as well as its propagation methods and points to note.
Introduction to the fuchsia
Fuchsia (Latin scientific name: Fuchsia hybrida Hort. ex Sieb. et Voss), alias: lantern flower, hanging bell begonia. Perennial subshrub, stem erect. Height 50-200 cm, thick 6-20 mm, much branched, covered with short pubescence and glandular hairs, gradually becoming hairless when old, young branches tinged with red. Leaves opposite, ovate or narrowly ovate, 3-9 cm long, 2.5-5 cm wide. It likes a cool and moist environment, fears high temperatures and strong light, and is suitable for fertile, loose, slightly acidic loam; the winter temperature should not be lower than 5°C.
The fuchsia is native to Mexico and is widely cultivated throughout the world. It is widely cultivated in China, especially grown in greenhouses in the north or in the northwest and southwestern plateaus. Potted plants are suitable for guest rooms, flower stands and desks as accents; placed in a bottle with clean water, they can both be ornamental and root for propagation.
I. Morphological characteristics
Branches: The fuchsia is a subshrub, with an erect stem, 50-300 cm tall, 6-20 mm thick, much branched, covered with short pubescence and glandular hairs, gradually becoming hairless when old, young branches tinged with red.
Leaves: The leaves of the fuchsia are opposite, ovate or narrowly ovate, 3-9 cm long, 2.5-5 cm wide, larger in the middle, apex acuminate, base shallowly cordate or obtusely rounded, margin with distant shallow teeth or tooth-like projections, veins often tinged with red, lateral veins 6-11 pairs, looping near the margin, both surfaces, especially the veins on the lower surface, covered with short pubescence; petiole 2-3.5 cm long, often tinged with red, covered with short pubescence and glandular hairs; stipules narrowly ovate to subulate, about 1.5 mm long, early deciduous.
Flowers: The flowers of the fuchsia are bisexual, solitary, rarely paired in the leaf axils at the top of stems and branches, pendulous; pedicels slender, pale green or tinged with red, 3-7 cm long; floral tube red, tubular, larger in the upper part, 1-2 cm long, 3-5 mm in diameter, together with the pedicel sparsely covered with short pubescence and glandular hairs; sepals 4, red, oblong or triangular-lanceolate, 2-3 cm long, 4-8 mm wide, apex gradually narrowed, reflexed when open; petals variable in color, purplish red, red, pink, white, arranged imbricately, broadly obovate, 1-2.2 cm long, apex slightly concave; stamens 8, the outer whorl longer, filaments red, the part extending beyond the floral tube 1.8-3 cm long, anthers purplish red, oblong, 2-3 mm long, about 1 mm in diameter, pollen pink; ovary obovoid-oblong, 5-6 mm long, 3-4 mm in diameter, sparsely covered with pubescence and glandular hairs, 4-loculed, each locule with many ovules; style red, 4-5 cm long, base surrounded by a green shallow cup-shaped disc; stigma club-shaped, brown, about 3 mm long, about 1.5 mm in diameter, apex 4-lobed. The flowering period of the fuchsia is April-December.
Fruit: The fruit of the fuchsia is purplish red, obovoid-oblong, about 1 cm long.
II. Ecological habits
The fuchsia likes a cool and moist environment, fears high temperatures and strong light, and avoids intense summer heat, stuffiness, rain and sun exposure. It prefers fertile, loose, slightly acidic soil, and should be rich in humus and well drained. In winter it requires warmth, moisture, sufficient sunlight and air circulation; in summer it requires dry, cool and semi-shaded conditions, and a certain level of air humidity should be maintained. When the summer temperature reaches 30°C, growth becomes extremely slow; at 35°C, a large number wither and die. In winter the temperature should not be lower than 5°C; if it is lower than 5°C, it is prone to cold damage.
III. The flower language of the fuchsia
Belief in love, a passionate heart.
How to grow the fuchsia
I. Planting techniques for the fuchsia
1. Cutting propagation
The fuchsia is mainly propagated by cuttings. Except in hot summer, it can be done throughout the year, and spring cuttings root fastest.
Spring is from March to May, and autumn is from August to September. Choose robust growing branches, each section with 2-3 stem nodes, keep a pair of leaves on the upper part, cut the base diagonally near the node, immerse it entirely in 0.1 potassium permanganate solution for 30 seconds, then stand it upright to expose the leaves, and continue soaking the base for 30 minutes. After taking it out, brush it clean with clean water, then keep it in clean water for 24-48 hours before taking the cutting; the density should be such that the leaves do not cover each other.
After the cuttings have rooted, they should be transplanted as early as possible. Generally the root length should not exceed 2 cm. First plant the cuttings in plain soil (made of 50% garden soil plus 50% river sand) in a small pot to promote root growth. Plain soil is less irritating to new tender roots, which helps survival. After planting, water thoroughly twice, arrange them closely in a shallow basin, and place them in a semi-shaded place for care.
2. Field management
Light: It likes a semi-shaded environment, but light requirements differ in different seasons. In winter, early spring and late autumn it needs full sun; in early summer and early autumn it needs half-day sun; in the intense heat of midsummer it should be shaded.
Temperature: The growing temperature for the fuchsia is 10-28°C; in summer the temperature cannot exceed 30°C, and at 35°C a large number wither and die, so cooling work should be done well in summer; in winter sufficient sunlight is required, and the cultivation temperature cannot be lower than 5°C, otherwise it will cause cold damage, so insulation measures must be taken.
Humidity: Spray water on the leaf surface multiple times a day, sprinkle water on the ground, lower the temperature and increase air humidity.
Fertilization: Because the fuchsia grows fast and blooms many times, during the growing period you should apply thin fertilizer frequently, about once every ten days applying thin cake fertilizer or compound fertilizer. Before fertilizing, the potting soil should be on the dry side; after fertilizing, spray water once with a fine nozzle, so that the leaf surface does not get fertilizer water on it and rot.
II. Disease control of the fuchsia
The fuchsia often suffers from fusarium wilt and rust. Use a 400-fold dilution of 20% carboxin emulsifiable concentrate to spray and prevent rust, and use a 1000-fold dilution of 10% acetic acid solution (antimicrobial agent 401) applied into the soil to prevent fusarium wilt.
When ventilation is poor, aphids, scale insects and whiteflies also cause damage; you can spray a 1000-fold dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate to kill them.
Propagation methods and points to note for the fuchsia
1. Repotting and changing the soil. Seedlings that have survived cuttings or been sown must all go through repotting several times from a small pot to a medium pot to a large pot. The plant needs its soil changed once before sprouting in spring or autumn each year. The substrate should preferably be fertile, loose, well-drained culture soil; generally you can use leaf mold plus sandy loam plus fully decomposed organic fertilizer and phosphate fertilizer mixed evenly, and no base fertilizer needs to be applied, so as to avoid root rot.
2. Fertilization. Because the fuchsia grows fast and blooms many times, during the growing period you should apply thin fertilizer frequently, about once every 10 days applying thin cake fertilizer or compound fertilizer; during the flowering period, a liquid fertilizer mainly of phosphorus and potassium should also be applied once a month, but fertilizing should stop in the high-temperature season. Before fertilizing, the potting soil should be on the dry side; after fertilizing, spray water once with a fine nozzle, so that the leaves do not get fertilizer water on them and rot.
3. Temperature. The growing temperature for the fuchsia is 10-28°C; in summer the temperature cannot exceed 30°C, so cooling work should be done well in summer; in winter sufficient sunlight is required, and the cultivation temperature cannot be lower than 5°C, otherwise it will cause cold damage, so insulation measures must be taken. In addition, whether in winter or summer, attention should be paid to ventilation.
4. Watering. Water when dry, and water thoroughly; never allow waterlogging. In summer the potting soil is better kept on the dry side, but pay attention to spraying water on the leaf surface and the ground.
5. Pinching and pruning. The flowering branches of the fuchsia are slender and drooping, so pinching and shaping are needed to promote branching, which can make the fuchsia bloom profusely and colorfully and extend the flowering period.
6. Placement. To keep the fuchsia's plant shape full, its position should be changed frequently during the growing period, so that the plant receives light evenly and does not lean to one side and ruin the plant shape. However, during the flowering period it should be moved as little as possible, otherwise it will cause buds and flowers to drop.