Can Primroses Be Grown Hydroponically? Hydroponic Methods and Care Guide

Primrose, also known as cuckoo flower or New Year flower. It belongs to the family Primulaceae, genus Primula (or the primrose genus), and is one of people's favorite flowers. So, do you know whether primroses can be grown hydroponically? Common primroses are all soil-cultivated, and today the editor of Huinong Network will explain the hydroponic methods and care guide for primroses.

1. Growth Characteristics

Primrose is a perennial herbaceous plant with a persistent root system, often cultivated as an annual or biennial. The plant is low-growing, with the tallest reaching less than 50cm, and the garden hybrids popular in recent years tend to be even more dwarfed. Colors include red, yellow, purple, white, blue, and bicolor. The flowering period is winter and spring.

2. Hydroponic Methods

(1) Select a robust, healthy small soil-cultivated plant, use the root-washing method to remove mud and dead roots, disinfect with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution, then plant it in a small-mouthed hydroponic container, adding clean water up to 2/3 of the root system.

(2) At the beginning of hydroponics, change the clean water once every 5 days, and water roots will grow out in about 10 days. When the plant shows strong growth vigor, add nutrient solution, changing it once a week. In summer, place it in a cool, ventilated spot, avoiding direct scorching sunlight. In winter, the room temperature should not be too high; 10-12°C is best, as this both favors flowering and makes the flower colors more vivid and the flowering period longer.

3. Care Guide

(1) Temperature and Light

The temperature suitable for primrose growth is 10-20°C, and the safe overwintering temperature is above 5°C. Primroses prefer ample sunlight and grow well in semi-shaded environments. At midday in summer, shading is needed; avoid intense direct sunlight, and place them in a cool, ventilated spot.

(2) Fertilizing

When changing the water for hydroponic primroses, add nutrient solution; when the plant shows strong growth vigor, the amount of nutrient solution can be increased.

(3) Changing Water

For hydroponic primroses in the early growth stage, change the water once every 2-3 days; after water roots have grown, changing the water once every 7-15 days is sufficient.

(4) Pest and Disease Control

Hydroponic primroses are not prone to disease, but before hydroponics you must choose healthy plants.

The above is the hydroponic methods and care guide for primroses compiled by the editor of Huinong Network. Have you all learned it? The hydroponic method for primroses is simple; friends who like them can try growing them.

Can Cyclamen Be Grown Hydroponically? Cyclamen Hydroponic Methods and Care Guide

Cyclamen, also known as rabbit ear flower, bunny flower, yipin crown, or radish begonia. Its flower language is introversion. Cyclamen is very suitable for pot cultivation, especially indoor pot cultivation where it is often seen. Below we will explain the hydroponic methods and care guide for cyclamen.

1. Growth Characteristics

It belongs to the family Primulaceae, genus Cyclamen. Cyclamen plants are 15-40cm tall, with a flattened round fleshy tuber. Leaves grow in clusters at the top of the tuber; the leaves have long petioles, are nearly heart-shaped, green with silver-white markings, and have blunt teeth of varying sizes along the margins. Flowers emerge from the leaf axils, mostly large, with fleshy long peduncles (15-25cm); the calyx has 5 lobes, and there are 5 petals joined at the base into a short tube, with the upper part reflexed and twisted, like rabbit ears, hence the name "rabbit ear flower." The plant's form resembles an immortal treading on clouds, exceedingly elegant, hence it is also called "cyclamen" (immortal visitor). The flower colors are rich, including white, red (bright red, purplish red, orange-red, pink), purple, and mixed colors, and some are fragrant. The flowering period lasts up to 5 months. It is a precious potted flower for the winter and spring seasons.

2. Hydroponic Methods

(1) In late August, after cyclamen has gone dormant and before it resumes growth, select plants with tubers over 3cm, more than 10 leaves, no pests or diseases, and healthy growth; dig them out, wash the roots, and use them for hydroponics.

(2) Generally, for tubers over 3cm, choose a container with a diameter over 15cm. Anchor the tuber to be transplanted in the planting cup using foam plastic, expanded clay pebbles, sphagnum moss, or vermiculite, leaving 1/3 of the tuber exposed; the growth point must not be buried, and the roots that protrude should be immersed in the nutrient solution. When converting from soil cultivation or substrate cultivation to hydroponics, it is best to let the plant acclimatize for 1 week. After 1 week, expose it to light in the morning and evening; after 1 month, expose it to light all day. The nutrient solution level should preferably submerge 1/2 of the root system.

(3) Use Garden Test nutrient solution at about 1/2 the standard concentration, pH 6-7, and replace it once every 25-30 days.

3. Care Guide

(1) Temperature and Light

The temperature suitable for cyclamen growth is 10-20°C; when the temperature is above 30°C, the plant enters a dormant state, and above 35°C, if ventilation is poor, root rot may occur. The safe overwintering temperature in winter is 10°C; if it falls below 10°C, the flowers will suffer frost damage. Cyclamen prefers ample diffused light and avoids direct sunlight.

(2) Watering

When indoor air is too dry, cyclamen flower buds easily dry up and turn black, and the leaves will also gradually turn yellow, significantly shortening the flowering period, so the leaves should be misted frequently to increase air humidity.

(3) Fertilizing

When changing the water for hydroponic cyclamen, add nutrient solution; after the flowering period, simply maintain it with clean water.

(4) Changing Water

At the very beginning of cyclamen hydroponics, place the plant in a dark spot and change the clean water once every 5 days; after 1 week, new roots will grow at the base of the tuber, and at this point it can be moved to a spot with ample light for care. When the water roots reach over 5cm, switch to hydroponic nutrient solution for care. The photo shows hydroponic cyclamen.

(5) Pest and Disease Control

Hydroponic cyclamen is prone to soft rot and aphid infestation. In the high-temperature season of July-August, if ventilation is poor, soft rot easily occurs and must be prevented promptly. Dense old leaves and dead leaves can be pruned; if aphids are found, kill them promptly and observe at any time for recurrence.

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

Hydroponic Flower Knowledge | Complete Guide to Hydroponic Flower Knowledge

Ten Questions on Hydroponic Flower Techniques

1. What flowers are suitable for hydroponics? What advantages does it have?

Answer: In theory, any flower can be grown hydroponically, but different types of flowers have different environmental requirements. For example, some varieties that need water control to promote flowering may have their flowering affected under hydroponic conditions, and some plants that are sensitive to oxygen deficiency need air pumped into the nutrient solution at regular intervals to supplement oxygen. At the same time, different types of flowers have different nutritional requirements, so appropriate nutrient solution formulas must be used. Therefore, flowers and plants must undergo proper acclimatization and adaptation before they can be grown hydroponically. There are many plants suitable for hydroponics, including the money
tree, money tree (Pachira), Peperomia, Sun God, Maranta, Little Angel, Marian, Sansevieria, golden barrel cactus and other cacti, as well as jewel orchid, snake plant, etc. Hydroponic flowers can go a long time without watering or fertilizing, have no foreign leaves, are clean and hygienic, beautiful and elegant, and are the first choice for home beautification and greening.

2. What substances are contained in the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?

Answer: The hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the essential nutrient elements needed for flower growth, including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, fluorine, etc. It is a colorless, odorless, non-toxic product, so please use it with confidence.

3. Why do hydroponic flowers need two concentrated solutions?

Answer: The main reason the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers is divided into two parts is that when the concentrations of metal nutrient elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, and copper in the nutrient solution are too high, they can precipitate each other and render the nutrients ineffective. Therefore, to ensure an adequate and balanced nutrient supply, these non-toxic compounds cannot be mixed together in the concentrated nutrient solution. So, if the hydroponic nutrient solutions sold on the market today are of only one type, the nutrients are often unbalanced.

4. Is more nutrient solution in the hydroponic flower container always better?

Answer: No. The depth of the nutrient solution in the container should be determined according to the growth of the flower's root system and should not be too much. Generally, when the root system is well developed, part of the root system should be left exposed to the air above the liquid surface so that the roots can absorb some oxygen from the air, which is very beneficial for healthy root growth. Never add too much nutrient solution to the container, but it should not be too little either; if too little, the nutrient solution must be replenished frequently, causing inconvenience in management. Usually, maintaining a nutrient solution layer about 5-10 centimeters deep is sufficient.

5. Do home hydroponic flowers need sunlight?

Answer: This depends on the light requirements of the flowers being grown. If they are shade-loving species, they should not be exposed to direct sunlight; however, since home-displayed hydroponic flowers are usually in environments with poor light, even shade-loving flowers need to be placed on a balcony with slightly stronger light at regular intervals. Generally, placing them on the balcony for one day a week is sufficient.

6. Do hydroponic flowers require a different nutrient solution for each type of flower?

Answer: No. There are many varieties of hydroponic flowers, but not every type of flower requires a corresponding nutrient solution; it is enough to choose different nutrient solutions according to different major categories. Of course, a general-purpose nutrient solution can also be used. At present, the Soilless Cultivation Technology Research Laboratory of South China Agricultural University has developed five types of nutrient solutions: general-purpose, foliage type, inner-plant type, orchid type, and flowering type.

7. Can flowers grown in soil be directly converted to hydroponics?

Answer: Converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics must go through a series of treatments first. First, take out the soil-cultivated flower and wash the root system clean, then soak the roots in a hydroponic root treatment solution for about 20 minutes before placing it in a hydroponic container for hydroponics.

8. Do fish kept together with flowers need to be fed?

Answer: No feeding is needed. This is because most of the fish kept together with flowers are small species, and these fish only need to absorb plankton and root exudates from the nutrient solution to meet their needs. If fed, they are more likely to overeat and die; at the same time, adding feed also easily makes the nutrient solution cloudy and reduces the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution, affecting the growth of both flowers and fish.

9. When growing hydroponic flowers, should the nutrient solution be replenished or replaced?

Answer: This depends on the plant's rate of water consumption. If the weather is dry and the plant is large, generally after about 15-20 days the nutrient solution needs to be replenished once, and adding an appropriate amount of nutrient solution is sufficient. When replenishing the nutrient solution, never add too much; simply add about 1/3-1/2 of the container's depth.

10. How long is the shelf life of the concentrated nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers? What should be noted during storage?

Answer: The shelf life of the concentrated solution for hydroponic flowers is almost unlimited, but generally do not use any that has been stored for more than 5 years. When storing the concentrated nutrient solution, keep it away from light as much as possible and do not place it where children can reach it.
Home Hydroponic Flower Experience Talk

As an eco-friendly way of growing flowers, hydroponic flowers have the following characteristics compared with traditional soil-cultivated flowers: 1) Water replaces soil, odorless and tasteless, clean and hygienic. 2) No need to repot or loosen soil, reducing the labor of growing flowers. 3) Lightweight, can be moved anytime and anywhere. 4) Flexible material selection, can be reasonably matched according to indoor arrangement. 5) Fewer harmful microorganisms in the water, high seedling survival rate. The seedling survival rate can be stably above 80%.

1. Flower varieties suitable for hydroponics. Many years of practice have proven that foliage plants are the first choice for home hydroponic flowers, such as Guangdong dieffenbachia, spotted dieffenbachia, Monstera deliciosa, taro, pothos, lucky bamboo, asparagus fern, spider plant, aloe, inch plant, Tradescantia zebrina, coleus, Brazil wood, parlor palm, hibiscus, fuchsia, etc. In addition, scarlet sage, azalea, camellia, cyclamen, amaryllis, calla lily, crown of thorns, kalanchoe, hyacinth, and other flowering plants also have good results with hydroponics. For hydroponic flowers such as sword fern, pot marigold, petunia, and Excoecaria cochinchinensis, the survival rate is not high.

2. Selection of hydroponic containers and bedding materials. 1) Containers. Any beautiful container that can hold water will do. It is best to use a transparent container, such as a beverage bottle (cut off the narrow neck), wine glass, teacup, vase, fish tank, etc. The opening must be somewhat large to allow gas exchange. The size, height, shape, color, texture, etc. of the container should be coordinated with the hydroponic flower. It is best to clean and disinfect it before use. 2) Bedding materials. Bedding materials are often placed at the bottom of the hydroponic container, mainly to stabilize the plant, such as: cobblestones, yellow sand, perlite, etc. Small pebbles with elegant appearance and various shapes are best. They should also be cleaned and disinfected before use.

3. Timing for hydroponics. Spring and autumn are most suitable for hydroponics, but it also varies by flower species. If the indoor temperature is 15°C-28°C, foliage plants can be grown hydroponically in all four seasons. Flowering plants are best grown hydroponically when the first flower bud is ready to open; for example, cyclamen, hyacinth, azalea, camellia, etc. are often grown hydroponically in early January, so that the full bloom period coincides with the Spring Festival, giving people the joy of spring warmth and blooming flowers.

4. Acquisition and treatment of hydroponic materials. 1) Root-washing method. Select a potted plant with a full plant shape, vigorous growth, and no pests or diseases; remove it from the pot and soil, wash the soil from the roots with water close to room temperature, and cut off roots that have already rotted or aged (for those with dense fibrous roots, about 1/3 can be cut off, but care should be taken to avoid injuring new roots), then soak the roots in a 50% potassium permanganate aqueous solution for 30 minutes (this both sterilizes and disinfects and promotes new root growth), and then proceed with hydroponics. This method is mostly used for larger plants and flowers that are difficult to root. 2) Water cutting method. Select strong, pest-free, semi-lignified branches of the current year, cut them off, and insert them into water for hydroponics. The cutting position is often two to three millimeters below the stem node; the cut should be smoothed with a sharp knife (washed and disinfected with white liquor in advance), and the lower leaves of the branch should be removed. Before rooting, it is best to use an opaque container or wrap a black plastic bag around a transparent container to facilitate rooting of the cuttings. This method is mostly used for flower varieties that root easily and grow quickly.

5. Water for hydroponics and changing water. 1) Water. Mountain spring water is best, as its water quality is clean, pollution-free, non-settling, and contains many trace elements necessary for plant growth. Cooled boiled water is second best. It is best not to use tap water, because it contains many impurities and easily settles, and the chlorine in it is harmful to plant growth. If rainwater or snow water can be used for hydroponics, it is even more beneficial to flower growth. 2) Changing water. Due to normal plant growth and metabolism, after a period of hydroponics, the oxygen in the water is continuously consumed, and at the same time the root system produces mucus, so the water quality is no longer as fresh as at the beginning. Much of the nutrient solution added to the water has also been absorbed by the plant, and too much residual unabsorbed elements can also harm the flowers. Therefore, the water must be changed regularly. The change in water quality is directly related to the temperature. Spring and autumn are the peak growth periods for flowers, so change the water once every 7-10 days; in summer, change the water once every 4-6 days; in winter, change the water once every 15-20 days. Each time you change the water, wash away the mucus from the roots and cut off aged roots and rotten roots. The height of the added water should be level with the root zone; too deep easily causes oxygen deficiency and root rot, while too shallow easily causes the root system to lack water and affects growth.

6. Adding nutrient solution for hydroponics. Hydroponic nutrient solution is the fertilizer for hydroponic flowers. Generally, about half a month after hydroponics begins, new roots will grow. Along with the growth of the flower plant, nutrient solution must be continuously added in conjunction with changing the water. Different types of flower nutrient solutions can be purchased on the market as needed. It must be noted that: 1) The various nutrient solutions purchased are stock solutions and must be diluted before use. The dilution ratio varies by flower species, so the instructions should be read carefully. 2) Each type of special nutrient solution must be used for its specific purpose, avoiding mismatching. For example, applying orchid nutrient solution to clivia will cause clivia not to bloom or to bloom very little. Some flowers do not need nutrient solution, especially during the dormant period; directly changing the water regularly or adding a small amount of sugar water or salt water also works well, such as for pothos and spotted dieffenbachia.

Pest and Disease Control Techniques for Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it is not grown in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, so it can still be harmed by pests and diseases from the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, washed of roots, and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, larvae, etc.; if not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the particularity of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these agents can kill insects and sterilize, they also cause pollution to the environment.

Pests and diseases that may occur in hydroponic flowers should be prevented mainly. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as much as possible flowers with robust plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture may be used, or they may be washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not many; only a few leaves have brown lesions, withered and necrotic, or irregular round wet-soaked lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned, and not allowed to spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases. Non-infectious diseases are not caused by pathogen infection; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Stuffily hot high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, sunburn from scorching sun, poorly ventilated environment, excessive shading, nutrient solution concentration too high, or inability to absorb in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry, and the lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, root rot is likely to occur, which is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots be cared for? Due to improper management, or root oxygen deficiency and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers develop leaf spot disease, the leaves turn yellow and fall off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still-intact upper branch 3 centimeters below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. For branches with a detached lower end, as long as they do not rot, new buds can also sprout at the stem node, at which point they can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, seven-color cordyline, and arrowhead plant can all use this method.

Complete Handbook of Home Hydroponic Flowers

Four Methods to Obtain Hydroponic Plants

1. Remove flowers cultivated in soil or other organic substrates, or in inorganic substrates, from their pots, remove the soil or inorganic substrate from the roots, and convert them to static hydroponics with nutrient solution.

2. Use flower branches as cuttings, insert them directly into still water, and after rooting, cultivate them with nutrient solution.

3. Some flowers produce runners (stolons) during growth, and small plantlets grow on the runners, such as spider plants and pineapple plants; these small plantlets can be picked off and directly grown hydroponically.

4. For flowers that grow many tiller buds, such as clivia and bromeliads, the method of peeling off rooted tiller buds can be used for hydroponics.

How to Prepare Hydroponic Nutrient Solution

Home static hydroponic flowers (or simply hydroponic flowers) must meet three basic conditions:

1. Choose plants that are closely related to aquatic plants, that is, plants that retain aquatic genetic genes, for use as static hydroponic flowers.

2. Choose a leak-proof, bottomless cultivation container that matches the size and style of the hydroponic flower.

3. Use a low-conductivity nutrient solution with ion-balanced absorption (appropriate ratio) and complete mineral nutrients necessary for flower and plant growth. The recommended formula is as follows:

(1) Macronutrients: calcium nitrate 0.27 grams, potassium nitrate 0.13 grams, monopotassium phosphate 0.08 grams, magnesium sulfate 0.13 grams.

(2) Micronutrients: disodium edetate 8.0 milligrams, ferrous sulfate 5.0 milligrams, manganese sulfate 1.4 milligrams, boric acid 2.0 milligrams, zinc sulfate 0.07 milligrams, copper sulfate 0.04 milligrams, sodium molybdate 0.09 milligrams. (3) Purified water: 1 liter (1000 milliliters).

The pH value is 5.5 to 6.5, and the electrical conductivity EC is <0.5 mm/cm.

Cultivate the selected flowers in a vessel and pour in hydroponic nutrient solution to grow them, and it becomes a static hydroponic flower with distinctive charm.

When preparing nutrient solution, it is best to use purified water. Of course, generally drinking tap water can also be used to prepare nutrient solution. They have all undergone strict treatment, are clean and hygienic, and meet the requirements of sterile (low-bacteria) cultivation. However, full attention must be paid to the fact that purified water has fewer impurities and pathogens and basically contains no nutrient elements necessary for plants, while tap water contains nutrient elements in unstable compositions as the components in the water source change. Therefore, nutrient solution prepared with purified water has stable and consistent composition, while nutrient solution prepared with tap water has unstable composition.

Liquid chlorine is used when disinfecting tap water. If the chlorine in tap water is excessive, it is harmful to flowers and plants. A water purifier can be installed on the faucet. Release the tap water, store it in a larger-diameter bucket for a few days, and stir it several times with a wooden stick to remove the chlorine. If water is urgently needed for changing water, you can add 3 to 5 grains of sodium thiosulfate (commonly known as baking soda) to 10 kilograms of tap water and stir evenly, which can also achieve the effect of removing chlorine.

Most foliage flowers like a slightly acidic soil environment, and their intolerance to alkalinity cannot be changed during hydroponics. Static nutrient solution cultivation must adjust the pH of the solution to the range of 5.5 to 6.5, which can facilitate the absorption of trace elements by flowers, keep physiological metabolism undisturbed, ensure normal growth, and keep the leaves emerald green.

How to Apply Foliar Fertilization

Static hydroponic flowers are cultivated under conditions of root oxygen deficiency, which can cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. To improve the quality of flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves. Use a fine-hole spray bottle, try not to let the fertilizer solution run off, and also spray the underside of the leaves. Spray once a week, twice during the growth period, which can make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for both foliage viewing and flower appreciation, such as silver vase, four-season begonia, bamboo begonia, and calla lily, during the bud stage, spray the leaves once a week with a 0.15% monopotassium phosphate dilution until the flowers open.

Temperature Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponic flowers only change one method of flower cultivation; they do not change the growth habits of the flowers, nor can they change their habits. The foliage flowers used in static hydroponics mostly originate from Latin American rainforests, or from tropical high-temperature, high-humidity, shaded ravine areas, and belong to non-cold-resistant flower plants. Generally, when the temperature drops below 10°C, some varieties will suffer frost damage, with scorched leaf edges, yellowing old leaves, and wilting and falling off. Under static hydroponic conditions, this phenomenon will likewise occur. Some flowers are more cold-resistant, such as ivy, periwinkle, and candle plant, and grow normally at 5°C to 7°C. When the temperature is above 30°C, the leaves of some flowers lose their luster, growth becomes sluggish, and brown scorch-like spots appear on the leaf margins, showing a dormant state of intolerance to high temperature, such as bamboo begonia, four-season begonia, and coleus. At high temperatures above 30°C, root rot is common in static hydroponics. Of course, this is also related to the fact that dissolved oxygen in the nutrient solution decreases as temperature rises. Keep the temperature at 15°C to 28°C, suitable for various flowers in static hydroponics. In addition, understanding the temperature required for the growth of each type of flower and creating suitable temperature conditions for its growth during static hydroponics is also very important.

Light Requirements for Hydroponic Flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant, shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in more shaded environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is diffused light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light requirements can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the leaves of the flowers cannot carry out normal photosynthesis and cannot accumulate enough nutrients, resulting in poor growth. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, lose the color of their leaves in weaker light environments and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively ample light that is not exposed to strong direct light can such flowers maintain glossy leaf color.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation of placed flowers should be rotated at regular intervals. This work can be completed together with cleaning the vessel and replacing the nutrient solution. After cleaning the root system, rotate the flower 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and growing upward.

Humid Environment and Good Ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow good growth. A simple method is to mist the leaves of the flowers (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors for the operation, and after misting move the flowers back indoors for display). When misting, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface and do not run off. For the relatively firm, wax-coated leaves of flowers such as Monstera deliciosa and clivia, a wet towel can be used to wipe the leaf surface, which both increases leaf surface humidity and removes dust from the leaves. For those larger flowers that are difficult to move, a shallow dish or basin of clean water can be placed beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for the normal growth of flowers. If static hydroponic flowers are placed in a room with doors and windows tightly closed and the air turbid, it is unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people go to work during the day and leave home, if the doors and windows in the room are not opened and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor fresh air, and dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, so their growth will become worse and worse, resulting in yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. In places where hydroponic flowers are placed, doors and windows should be opened at regular intervals to form air convection and let fresh outside air enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature needed by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which can cause scorched edges and dry tips on the leaves of flowers with thinner leaves. Air-conditioned rooms likewise lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be done in a timely manner, which is beneficial to both the growth of hydroponic flowers and human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display especially need to do this work well.

Pest and Disease Control for Hydroponic Flowers

Hydroponics escapes infection from soil-borne pests and diseases, but it is not grown in a strictly sterilized vacuum environment, so it can still be harmed by pests and diseases from the display environment. Fungi, bacteria, and viruses in the air can still infect the stems and leaves of hydroponic flowers, causing lesions of varying degrees. Aphids and scale insects can drift indoors with the wind and land on hydroponic flowers to suck sap. Moths lay eggs on flowers, and the hatched larvae will also chew the tender leaves and stem tips of the flowers. Flowers that have been removed from pots, washed of roots, and converted to static hydroponics will likewise carry fungi, bacteria, viruses, eggs, larvae, etc.; if not carefully checked and removed, they will leave hidden dangers.

Because of the particularity of the display environment for static hydroponic flowers, once pests or diseases occur, it is not appropriate to use chemical pesticides to kill insects, nor to use large doses of fungicides to sterilize. Although these agents can kill insects and sterilize, they also cause pollution to the environment.

Pests and diseases that may occur in hydroponic flowers should be prevented mainly. When choosing flowers for hydroponics, select as much as possible flowers with robust plants, luxuriant growth, and no pests or diseases. If pests are found during cultivation, manual capture may be used, or they may be washed away with tap water. Infectious diseases in hydroponic flowers are not many; only a few leaves have brown lesions, withered and necrotic, or irregular round wet-soaked lesions, formed by fungal or bacterial infection. Once found, the entire diseased leaf should be removed and burned, and not allowed to spread. Prevention of non-infectious diseases.

Non-infectious diseases are not caused by pathogen infection; they are caused by unsuitable environments. Stuffily hot high-temperature weather in summer, cold winter, dry climate, sunburn from scorching sun, poorly ventilated environment, excessive shading, nutrient solution concentration too high, or inability to absorb in a balanced way can all cause the leaf tips of static hydroponic flowers to scorch and dry, and the lower leaves to turn yellow and fall off. When summer temperatures are too high, because the dissolved oxygen in the solution drops sharply, root rot is likely to occur, which is an even more common symptom of static hydroponics. In response to the above different symptoms, identify the corresponding causes, correct them, improve the cultivation environment, and avoid the occurrence of non-infectious diseases.

How should static hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots be cared for? Due to improper management, or root oxygen deficiency and root rot, or infection by fungi, bacteria, or viruses, hydroponic flowers develop leaf spot disease, the leaves turn yellow and fall off in large numbers, causing the lower end to become detached and lose ornamental value. For hydroponic flowers with detached sections and rotten roots, the method of plant renewal can be used: cut off the still-intact upper branch 3 centimeters below the stem node, insert it in clean water, and after a period of care and management, it can grow new roots and become an independent plant. For branches with a detached lower end, as long as they do not rot, new buds can also sprout at the stem node, at which point they can be switched to nutrient solution cultivation. Lucky bamboo, pothos, seven-color cordyline, and arrowhead plant can all use this method.

How Many Hydroponic Flowers Are Suitable for Display

Growing hydroponic flowers in a room can regulate mood, beautify the environment, and also purify the air, so displaying a few plants appropriately is beneficial. If the room area is not large and too many flowers are displayed, it will cause flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night. So how many flowers should be placed in a room? According to scientists' experiments, it is considered suitable to grow one or two kinds of flowers per 10 square meters of room area. By this standard, for a room of 50 to 60 square meters, displaying about 10 hydroponic flowers of varying sizes can satisfy viewing needs without causing flowers to compete with people for oxygen at night.

How to Choose Hydroponic Flower Materials in Winter

Hydroponic flowers are deeply loved by people for their clean, beautiful, and easy-to-manage characteristics. When choosing hydroponic flower materials in winter, you must pay attention to the following four "requirements":

First, choose flower types suitable for hydroponics. If you buy types unsuitable for hydroponics and grow them in water, they will gradually die before long because the roots rot. Aquatic plants, hygrophytes, and a group of relatively drought-intolerant terrestrial plants are all relatively suitable for hydroponics, such as umbrella plant, arrowhead plant, pothos, philodendron, Tradescantia zebrina, and lucky bamboo.

Second, choose flower types with strong cold resistance. Although some flowers are very suitable for hydroponics, they need higher temperatures to overwinter and are difficult to overwinter safely in ordinary homes, easily suffering frost damage. Flower materials with relatively strong cold resistance that can overwinter with a little cold protection include Monstera deliciosa, purple-leaf inch plant, aloe, spider plant, umbrella plant, parlor palm, and broadleaf lady palm.

Third, choose flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions. Some flower vendors take soil-cultivated flowers out of the soil and, after washing the soil from the roots, immediately supply them to the flower market. Although such flower materials look like they are growing normally, they still need to go through an adaptation process before they can grow normally in a hydroponic environment, so you must carefully identify them when purchasing. Flower materials that have already adapted to hydroponic conditions will grow some white water roots at the roots or stem base.

Fourth, choose robust plants without pests or diseases. Plants with upright, energetic branches and leaves and full, glossy leaves are conducive to displaying the ornamental effect that flowers should have.

Advantages of Hydroponics

1. Simple Daily Management

The daily management of "Hydroponic Flower King" hydroponic flowers is very simple. Apart from changing the nutrient solution once every 7-10 days during the vigorous growth period of plants in spring and summer, and once every 15-20 days in autumn and winter, it does not require extra care. Ordinarily, you only need to mist the leaves in dry seasons or in air-conditioned environments; when there is dust on the leaves, just wipe them with a clean cloth or paper towel dipped in water. It saves the trouble of fertilizing, changing soil, and watering daily, and is very suitable for the fast-paced lifestyle of modern society.

2. Clean and stylish

Because hydroponic flowers are completely removed from the soil cultivation environment and grow directly in a relatively sterile or low-bacteria nutrient solution environment, they will not pollute our living environment with pests and pathogens parasitic in the soil the way soil-cultivated flowers do, making our homes safer, cleaner and more reassuring. Moreover, because they are removed from soil, we can use more and more beautiful vases, vessels and materials to grow them. Not only can we enjoy the flowers and leaves, but we can also enjoy the process of root growth that we do not usually see and the beauty of their myriad forms, making them very neat and stylish.

3. Many suitable varieties, and the technique is easy to master and operate

Because the technology for adapting plant roots from a soil environment to an aquatic environment has been overcome, the "Hydroponic Flower King" does not need to be cultivated through a planting basket to produce water roots, nor does it need the earlier computer or electric field mutagenesis. Only very simple technical treatment is needed, and soil-grown roots can quickly transform into water roots. Anyone can grow vigorously growing, lush hydroponic flowers, which greatly shortens the production cycle, saves production costs, gives the product greater profit margins, and increases the product's competitiveness in the market; at the same time, because production costs are lower, more people can enjoy the lifestyle trend brought by new technology, rapidly expanding market share. Because no planting basket is used, hydroponic flowers become even more beautiful and refined.
Because rainwater changes the nutrient solution concentration and pH value, hydroponic flowers are not suitable for open-air cultivation, so some light-loving plants are relatively difficult to grow hydroponically indoors at home. However, common shade-loving and semi-shade-loving flowers can basically all be successfully grown hydroponically, and the number of tested varieties has currently reached nearly more than 400. If your home has sunlight or an artificially regulated greenhouse, then in theory any plant can be grown hydroponically, only with differing degrees of difficulty.

4. Green and environmentally friendly, can be grown together with fish

The "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution does not contain toxic ingredients, so fish and flowers can be kept together for a long time without any side effects harmful to the flowers or fish. The fish in our specialty store still grow well after long-term rearing, and some customers add the nutrient solution to aquariums to fertilize aquatic plants, with very good results as well. Practice has proven it is safe and reliable. At the same time, because it contains special ingredients, mosquitoes and insects are not likely to breed in the nutrient solution. Moreover, when you change the water, if you pour the discarded nutrient solution into your soil-grown potted flowers at home, there will be even more unexpected pleasant surprises. Facts have proven that the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is a truly green and environmentally friendly nutrient solution, and its effects are very obvious.

Selection of hydroponic flower types

The growth and development of flowers require suitable conditions such as water, oxygen, nutrients, light and temperature. The water used as a hydroponic medium contains a certain amount of oxygen. As long as there is suitable light and temperature and the nutrient elements needed for plant growth are supplied in time, flowers can grow normally in water.

Due to differences in ecological habits and tissue structure, different flowers have different requirements for the oxygen content in water. Some flowers have air-conducting tissues inside their bodies, and the oxygen produced by these plants during photosynthesis can be sent through the air-conducting tissues to the root parts for respiration; some flowers have aerial roots at the stem nodes, and these aerial roots can absorb the oxygen the plant needs from the air; some flowers, although they do not have air-conducting tissues and oxygen-absorbing aerial roots, are nevertheless very well adapted to hydroponic conditions. But for some flowers, the oxygen content in the water cannot meet the needs of their normal growth and development, so such flowers are not suitable for hydroponics. Therefore, to succeed in hydroponics, one must choose flower types that can adapt to hydroponic conditions, and must not blindly cultivate them, lest hydroponics fail.

Flower types suitable for hydroponics

Araceae

Araceae flowers have great adaptability to water conditions. When grown by water cuttings, most can root within a relatively short time and grow rapidly, quickly forming a plant shape with a certain ornamental value; after soil-cultivated plants are washed with water, most of their existing roots can adapt to the hydroponic environment. Araceae flowers suitable for hydroponics include pothos, Guangdong evergreen, dieffenbachia, Aglaonema 'Silver King', Aglaonema 'Golden Queen', clustered Philodendron 'Hope', mini monstera, Swiss cheese plant, Spathiphyllum, green taro, Philodendron, Philodendron panduriforme, Philodendron 'Green Emperor', Syngonium, Alocasia, anthurium, and Emerald Gem, etc.

Commelinaceae

Almost all Commelinaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as: purple-leaf spiderwort, purple-backed evergreen, Lophatherum, and Tradescantia zebrina, etc., all of which can root and grow rapidly when grown as water cuttings.

Liliaceae

The vast majority of Liliaceae flowers can adapt to hydroponics, such as: aloe, triangular aloe, Haworthia fasciata, spider plant, Cordyline, dragon tree, Dracaena, snake plant, Agave, golden-edged lucky bamboo, sea onion, silver-edged evergreen, and silver-edged lilyturf, etc.

Crassulaceae

Crassulaceae flowers are also relatively well adapted to hydroponic conditions, such as: Aeonium, Fengrong palm, silver wave Sedum, jade plant, and Bryophyllum, etc.

In addition, flowers that can adapt to hydroponics also include Aucuba, umbrella plant, coleus, purple velvet plant, blue pine, bamboo begonia, ox-ear begonia, green taro, clivia, Paphiopedilum, croton, dusty miller, Senecio, leaf cactus, triangle bamboo, hanging bromeliad, Cryptanthus, Chloranthus, star jasmine, Euphorbia, Euphorbia trigona, variegated periwinkle, red-backed Excoecaria, Sihai wave, English ivy, common ivy, broadleaf lady palm, and miniature coconut, etc.

When choosing hydroponic flower types, in addition to considering whether they can adapt to hydroponic conditions, attention should also be paid to the following factors:

Although some flowers are very well adapted to hydroponic conditions, they have relatively high requirements for overwintering temperature. For example, some species of the genus Dieffenbachia and flowers such as croton require an overwintering temperature above 15°C; pothos, Syngonium, golden-edged lucky bamboo, and Dracaena species also require an overwintering temperature above 10°C. For rooms heated in winter this certainly poses no problem, but for most households, it is still very difficult to let these flowers safely pass through the cold winter. Although some flowers will not cause the entire plant to die after overwintering, due to low-temperature freezing damage the leaves will become wilted and listless, lose their proper luster, turn yellow, and the leaf tips or leaf margins will scorch, or new scorch spots will appear on the leaves, even causing massive leaf drop or death of some branches and leaves, thereby losing their ornamental value. Therefore, when there are no stable conditions, attention must be paid to choosing flower types with stronger cold resistance. Flowers suitable for general household hydroponics include:

Flowers with strong cold resistance

Such as evergreen, star jasmine, broadleaf lady palm, Agave, Aucuba, jade plant, sea onion, and variegated lilyturf, etc., which can withstand low temperatures of around 0°C.

Flowers with a certain degree of cold resistance

Such as Swiss cheese plant, purple-leaf spiderwort, Lophatherum, aloe, spider plant, silver wave Sedum, umbrella plant, purple velvet plant, dusty miller, Chloranthus, Euphorbia trigona, variegated periwinkle, common ivy, and miniature coconut, etc., which can safely overwinter with slight protection during winter.

Of course, although some flowers such as Philodendron 'Red Emerald', Philodendron 'Green Emerald', Syngonium, pothos, snake plant, and croton are relatively difficult to overwinter safely, they are easy to obtain, grow rapidly, and have high ornamental value, so they can also be considered for purchase and cultivation when spring is warm.

The issue of shade tolerance

Because indoor light conditions are relatively poor, it is advisable to choose flower types that like semi-shade or tolerate semi-shade. At the same time, even semi-shade-loving or semi-shade-tolerant foliage plants have different requirements for light intensity. For example, croton, purple-leaf spiderwort, and Tradescantia zebrina need sufficient scattered light, but Spathiphyllum, giant taro, Guangdong evergreen, and Aglaonema 'Silver King' all have extremely strong shade tolerance. Because different rooms and different lighting conditions within rooms vary, suitable flower types should be chosen according to the lighting conditions of the placement location, so as to ensure normal flower growth and maintain good ornamental value. When light is insufficient, the branches and leaves of the plant will grow leggy, the stems will become thin, the internodes will be longer, the leaves will become smaller and deformed, lose greenness and lose their proper luster, colored stripes on the leaves will fade, and even a large number of leaves may drop, thus seriously affecting the ornamental value of the flowers.

Technique for growing spider plant in water

Spider plant, with fresh emerald leaf color and orchid-like leaf shape, is fresh and elegant, and is a common household foliage flower loved by people. In addition, it has the unique effect of purifying indoor air, which is one of the important reasons people like to grow it indoors.

1. Container: The container bottle can be single-layer or double-layer. A single-layer bottle is a bottomless plastic bottle or bottomless ceramic bottle used to plant spider plant. For a double-layer bottle, use a plastic sieve as the upper layer and a bottomless bottle as the lower layer, plant the spider plant in the upper plastic sieve, and let the spider plant roots hang down into the bottle.

2. Taking seedlings: Remove potted or field-grown spider plant from the pot or dig it up from the ground, remove the soil from the roots, wash the roots with clean water, cut off old roots and rotten roots, keep the fibrous roots, cut off some leaves (old leaves, diseased and pest-damaged leaves), keep healthy leaves, generally leaving 6 to 10 leaves.

3. Potting: For the single-layer bottle potting method, insert the prepared spider plant into the bottle, tightly tie the bottle mouth with sponge and insert one plastic straw, which is used for supplying water. Let the spider plant stand upright, put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the bottle, and let the spider plant roots grow immersed in the water. For the double-layer bottle cultivation method, plant the spider plant on the plastic sieve, let the roots pass through the small holes of the plastic sieve into the lower bottle, put ceramic material or gravel (large particles) in the sieve, let the spider plant stand upright, and put clean water and flower nutrient solution into the lower bottle. After potting is completed, place the spider plant indoors or in a cool place for management.

4. Management:

① Water: For cultivation in a single-layer container bottle, add water and flower nutrient solution once every 4 days, with water input through the straw until full. For the double-layer bottle, change the water once a week. When changing the water, pour out the bottle water, wash the container bottle clean, put in clean water and flower nutrient solution, and then place the plastic sieve on the water bottle.

② Fertilizer: By adding water and changing water, flower nutrient solution is added at the same time. For root-external topdressing, spray the branches and leaves once every 3 days with diluted flower nutrient solution.

③ Pest and disease control: If pests or diseases are found, spray the leaves with all-purpose powder mixed with water.

④ Promoting flowering: Spider plant blooms half a year after potting. When blooming, do not spray water on the flowers, to prevent premature flower drop. After the flowers wither, cut the flowers off from the branch tips to promote reblooming.

The outstanding performer in static hydroponics

Araceae plants have 105 genera and more than 2,500 species. They originated in tropical Asia and arose in waters or swamps in forest regions. After a long historical evolution, the vast majority have currently developed into terrestrial plants, with very few aquatic species.
Common excellent ornamental plants (genera) in Araceae include: Anthurium, Monstera, Scindapsus, Epipremnum, Zantedeschia, Dieffenbachia, Caladium, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum, and Alocasia, etc. Although the plants of the above genera are all terrestrial, they have extremely close kinship with aquatic vascular plants: some are themselves wetland species, some have aerial roots, some easily produce adventitious roots, and some easily develop air-conducting tissues under stress environments.
In static hydroponics of terrestrial plants, root respiration is in a severe state of oxygen deficiency. The prerequisite for success is correctly choosing the plant species, that is, one that has close kinship with aquatic plants. Araceae plants have close kinship with aquatic plants, specifically shown as follows:
First, Araceae plants evolved and developed with aquatic genetic genes as the center. The new Engler system holds that the most primitive in Araceae is Acorus, and the most evolved is Pistia, both of which are aquatic plants.
Acorus is an aquatic or wetland evergreen herb, the most primitive genus in Araceae, originating in the Old Tropics of the Late Cretaceous (about 100 million years ago), and first arose in water environments. Pistia is almost distributed across the freshwater waters of all continents of the Old and New Worlds, and is the most evolved monotypic genus in Araceae. It is a floating plant propagated vegetatively, easy to migrate and spread, and with very strong reproductive capacity. In addition, Araceae also includes famous aquatic species such as Acorus gramineus, water taro and taro.
The evolved Pistia genus, as an aquatic plant, is not a simple repetition of the primitive Acorus genus, but a dialectical "negation of the negation," a repetition on a higher basis. Although the vast majority of species in Araceae grow on land, they all come from aquatic ancestors, and in appearance form a "negation" of their aquatic ancestors. And finally transforming into the more advanced aquatic plant Pistia genus, this return is another "negation," which is the dialectical law of the "negation of the negation." It shows that the opposing poles of aquatic and terrestrial reach unity in dialectical development. This is the unique philosophical reason why Araceae plants are the outstanding performers in static hydroponics.
Second, Araceae belongs to Arales, which has only two families. The other family in the same order is the aquatic Lemnaceae, and Lemnaceae are floating or submerged herbaceous plants. This proves that Araceae and aquatic Lemnaceae share a common aquatic ancestor, and there is an extremely close kinship between them.
From this it can be seen that Araceae plants evolved forward with aquatic genetic genes as the center, following an approximately spiral curve.
Third, the relationship of Arales in plant classification systems: The Hutchinson system holds that Arales evolved from Liliales, and a few aquatic types in Liliales have a parallel developmental relationship with the wetland Najadales. The Takhtajan system holds that Arales shares a common ancestor with Arecales and Balanophorales (primitive lilies), and can be traced further back to Magnoliales. The Cronquist system holds that Arales has close kinship with Pandanales and Arecales, and shares a common ancestor with Liliales. From the above classification systems it can be inferred that Arales has kinship correlation with Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic plants.
In summary, Araceae plants evolved forward with aquatic genetic genes as the center, share a common ancestor with aquatic Lemnaceae, and have kinship correlation with Liliales, Arecales, etc., which contain aquatic species. Therefore, containing aquatic genetic genes is the direct reason that makes Araceae plants the outstanding performers in static hydroponics.

Judging and handling root rot in hydroponics

During hydroponics, due to management and other reasons, plants often develop root rot. For example, excessively low temperature, overly concentrated fertilizer, and disease can all cause root rot, and root rot will worsen water quality and affect plant growth. To judge whether roots are rotten: first, smell the roots with your nose; if there is a foul odor, it proves the roots have rotted; second, smell the water; if the water has a foul odor, it indicates the root system may also have rotted and deteriorated; third, observe the appearance of the root system; if the root system has turned yellow and changed color, it indicates the root system has been damaged. After the root system rots, gently pull at the root zone, and the epidermis will peel off very easily, leaving only the lignified part.

After root rot appears, cut it off in time. Generally root rot gradually spreads upward from the root tip. After pruning, cut until normal roots are reached. After changing the water, observe carefully. If root rot continues to appear, handle it in time.

Simple hydroponic facilities -- bottles and jars and cultivation management

Using waste containers such as beverage cans, wide-mouth bottles, and white polystyrene hard foam boxes (cases), etc., with slight tidying, they can become hydroponic carriers of different sizes and shapes. This not only suits local conditions and makes full use of materials, but can also green the surrounding environment, with a considerable flavor of returning to nature.

One, bottles and jars

1. Such as metal beverage cans, glass or plastic wide-mouth bottles, paper foil-lined square beverage boxes, etc. These were originally used to hold liquids. As long as the original contents are rinsed clean, they can be set aside as hydroponic carriers.

2. Planting cup: According to the size of the mouth of the selected container, choose a plastic cold drink cup that fits just about 1/3 into the mouth as the carrier for anchoring the plant. As shown in Figure 1, cut a "well"-shaped hole in the bottom of the cup so that the root system can extend through the cup bottom into the nutrient solution, while the plant's anchoring material will not leak out. The opening also serves a ventilation function.

3. Anchoring the plant: Prepare a piece of non-woven fabric (nonwoven cloth) about 8×12 cm used for clothing padding. Gently rinse the soil off the seedling to be hydroponically grown or the purchased potted flower with soil, without damaging the root system. Wrap and roll the root system with the non-woven fabric, then wrap the outside with porous plastic sponge (leftover pieces cut from shoulder pads for jackets or sofa and chair cushions, etc.), or a small amount of rock wool or glass wool (used as insulation material, some yellow, some yellow with white), etc., to thicken it so that it just fits into the plastic planting cup and serves to anchor the plant. If none of the above items are available, floral foam, after proper cutting, can also be used as anchoring material. Immerse the non-woven fabric roll wrapping the root system, together with the exposed root system, into the bottle or jar containing nutrient solution. It must be noted that the nutrient solution surface should maintain a space distance of no less than 1 cm from the bottom of the planting cup. This is the key to success in hydroponics. By means of the capillary action of the non-woven fabric, the nutrient solution is continuously supplied to the root system for nutrition. After about half a month, the nutrient solution gradually decreases as the crop grows and transpires. When the liquid level drops to 1/4 of the container height, new nutrient solution can be added. At this time, the distance between the liquid surface and the bottom of the planting cup can be somewhat larger, about 3 cm.

4. Cultivation management: If a transparent glass container is used, the bottle body must be covered with a light-blocking material to avoid direct sunlight causing algae growth that competes with the cultivated plants for nutrients. In summer, to prevent a large rise in liquid temperature caused by direct sunlight exposure, it is best to have shading measures, or place it where sunlight cannot directly shine.

Two, boxes and cases

1. Box body: Usually white hard polystyrene foam boxes used for shockproof packaging, or corrugated cardboard boxes or wooden boxes with a certain strength, etc., can all be used. Generally about 35×25×15 cm to 60×40×16 cm. If the box bottom (body) has holes, they can be leveled with a wooden board or foam board. Line the inside of the box with black agricultural film to prevent nutrient solution leakage. If it is confirmed that the box body will not leak and is not light-transmitting, the film can be omitted. If there is no black film, other films can also be used as substitutes.

2. Upper cover: The upper cover also serves the function of a planting board. Find a polystyrene foam board the same area as the box and about 2.5 cm thick to serve as the upper cover and planting board. Open a certain number of planting holes about 6 cm in diameter on the board. As with bottles and jars, it is enough if the selected plastic cold drink cup can be placed in it while about 1/2 of the cup height is exposed. The number of planting holes depends on the size of the box. Generally 6 to 16 holes. Also open a small hole about 2 cm in diameter on the side of the upper cover near the inner side of the box body, for peeking at the nutrient solution level and adding nutrient solution in ordinary times.

3. Planting cup: Material selection and preparation are the same as for bottles and jars.

4. Floating board: Take a polystyrene foam board 2.5 to 3 cm thick and 2.5 to 3 cm smaller on all four sides than the inner clear area of the box as the floating board. Regularly open some small holes 1 to 2 cm in diameter on it to increase the air content of the floating board and facilitate the root system extending into the nutrient solution. Lay a thin layer of rock wool (about 1 cm dry thickness), or glass wool of the same thickness, or 25 to 50 g/sq m non-woven fabric on the floating board, to serve for capillary absorption of the nutrient solution. If these things really cannot be obtained, medically sterilized degreased gauze can also be used as a substitute. The area of the capillary-absorbing cotton layer is about 6 cm larger on all four sides than the floating board, so that the excess part laid on the floating board can hang freely from all four sides of the floating board (like an apron), immersing into the nutrient solution to absorb it by capillary action, thereby ensuring that a moist layer with nutrient solution forms on the floating board. The plant root system can extend freely on the floating board, making more direct contact with air. Another part of the root system can still extend through the four sides of the floating board, or through the small holes in the floating board, into the nutrient solution to absorb nutrients. This method can compensate for the unfavorable environment of ordinary static hydroponics, which cannot circulate the nutrient solution and oxygenate it.

5. Cultivation management:

(1) Pour the prepared nutrient solution into the cultivation box. Just after planting, the liquid level should be slightly higher, controlled so that the floating board just touches the non-woven fabric root roll extending from the planting cup, so that the nutrient solution can be absorbed upward by capillary action. The highest liquid level must definitely leave a certain space in the cultivation box. When the nutrient solution decreases to 3 to 5 cm due to plant absorption and transpiration, nutrient solution should be added until the liquid depth is about 10 cm.

(2) When the nutrients in the nutrient solution change greatly, or when there is precipitation, turbidity, foul odor or pathogen infection, the nutrient solution should be renewed as appropriate, up to complete replacement.

The requirements of hydroponic flowers for a humid environment and good ventilation

The places of origin of foliage flowers are mostly warm and humid environments. Static hydroponics also needs to create a relatively humid environment to allow them to grow well. A simple method is to spray the flower leaves with water (to prevent the sprayed mist from wetting furniture, you can move them to a balcony or outdoors to do it, and after spraying move the flowers back indoors for display). When spraying, it is best to use a fine-hole nozzle so that the sprayed mist droplets adhere to the leaf surface and do not run down. For relatively firm flower leaves with a waxy film, such as Swiss cheese plant and clivia, you can wipe the leaf surface with a wet towel, which can both increase leaf surface humidity and remove dust from the leaf surface. For those relatively large flowers that are difficult to move, you can place a shallow dish or basin of clean water beside the flowers, and the evaporated water can likewise increase environmental humidity.

There must be a good ventilation environment. This is an important condition for normal flower growth. If hydroponic flowers placed indoors are in a room with doors and windows tightly closed and turbid air, it is unfavorable for their growth. Especially when people go to work and leave home during the day, if the doors and windows are not opened and some even draw the curtains, in such a harsh environment hydroponic flowers can neither get the light they need nor, even more, fresh air. Dissolved oxygen continuously decreases, and growth will become worse and worse, producing phenomena such as yellowing and falling leaves and thin, shriveled new shoots. Places where hydroponic flowers are placed should have doors and windows opened regularly to form air convection, allowing fresh outside air to enter the room, which can increase the dissolved oxygen content in the nutrient solution.

Rooms with air conditioning can of course achieve the temperature required by hydroponic flowers, but the air in the room is dry, which will cause scorched edges on the leaves of flowers with thinner leaves and withered leaf tips. Air-conditioned rooms likewise lack fresh air, reducing dissolved oxygen content. Ventilation should be carried out in good time. This is beneficial both to the growth of hydroponic flowers and to human health. Places with large hydroponic flowers on display especially need this work done well.

Light requirements of hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics mostly uses relatively shade-tolerant and shade-loving foliage flowers and a small number of flowering flowers. The characteristic of such flowers is that they do not need strong direct light during the growth period, and some flower varieties grow well in relatively shady environments. Generally placed indoors, in living rooms, or offices, as long as there is scattered light coming through doors and windows and indoor lamplight, their light needs can be fully met. If the light is too weak, the flower leaves cannot carry out normal photosynthesis, cannot accumulate enough nutrients, and grow poorly. Some colored-leaf flowers, such as coleus and croton, will lose the color of their leaf surfaces in a relatively weak-light environment and become dull and lusterless. Only in an environment with relatively sufficient light but not direct strong light can such flowers maintain their leaf color and luster.

Plant growth has phototropism. The orientation in which flowers are placed should be rotated regularly. This work can be combined and completed when cleaning the vessels and changing the nutrient solution. Turn the flower, after root washing, 180 degrees relative to its original orientation for cultivation, so that the flower will not grow leaning to one side, and the top shoot will always remain upright and growing upward.

How hydroponic flowers safely overwinter

How hydroponic flowers overwinter

Generally, flowers enter dormancy below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and tissues will become necrotic below 0 degrees Celsius. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, winter indoor temperatures generally do not fall below 5 degrees Celsius. If there are a few days of extreme low-temperature weather, it can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; and in the north, because most interiors have heating, this can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

Why hydroponic flowers need water changes

Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer. At the same time, because of root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more, so hydroponic flowers need to be given new nutrient solution after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as for soil-cultivated flowers. Soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and also need the soil changed once a year for the same reason. For hydroponic flowers, the water-changing interval should be shorter during the vigorous growth period of spring and summer, and can be longer in autumn and winter when growth is slow.

Hydroponic method for cyclamen

Growing cyclamen in water only began to appear in Europe in the last year or two. Because this cultivation method removes cyclamen from traditional flower pots and substrate, it is both clean and beautiful, and can endow blooming cyclamen plants with multiple cultivation and application forms. As soon as it appeared on the market, it won enthusiastic welcome from consumers. In fact, growing cyclamen in water is not difficult. First, you must choose a satisfactory cyclamen potted flower and prepare a container for hydroponically growing cyclamen. With the preparation work completed, you can begin making the hydroponic cyclamen. For hydroponic cyclamen, the purchased cyclamen potted flower should be turned out of the pot together with the substrate (flower soil) and placed under a faucet with a relatively gentle water flow to rinse the substrate clean, or the plant together with the substrate can be placed in a basin of water, the substrate swished off in the water, and then rinsed clean with tap water. Note that throughout the whole process of removing the substrate, the movements must be gentle, and injury to the cyclamen root system should be avoided as much as possible. The rinsed-clean cyclamen plant can then be placed in the pre-prepared hydroponic container, water added, and the beautiful hydroponic cyclamen is done.

It should be pointed out that no fertilizer of any kind needs to be added to the water for cultivating cyclamen. The nutrients in the cyclamen corm can allow the cyclamen plant to maintain normal growth and flowering for 4-6 weeks. At the same time, the water surface height should be kept below the corm. Generally, based on the evaporation of water, add water to the container 1-2 times a week to maintain the water surface height.

In fact, in hydroponic cyclamen, the cyclamen plant is only one of the factors. To make hydroponic cyclamen distinctive in features and outstanding in personality, it also depends on the choice of hydroponic vessels and the way the cyclamen plants are combined. This all depends entirely on the maker's unique perspective and flexible creativity.

Hydroponic method with exposed roots for Hoya carnosa

Hoya carnosa has traditionally been soil-cultivated. Now, through experiments with exposed-root hydroponics, it has the following characteristics: ① saves labor; ② hygienic; ③ few pests and diseases; ④ simple management; ⑤ long flowering period; ⑥ roots, leaves and flowers can all be enjoyed, etc.

The exposed-root hydroponic method is:

(1) Seedling treatment: Dig up the soil-grown Hoya carnosa, wash it clean with clean water, cut off dead leaves and diseased and pest-damaged leaves, and soak it in diluted flower nutrient solution for half a day.

(2) Potting: Take a glass bottle or vase (without a bottom hole), put a few beautiful river stones in the bottom of the bottle, move the treated Hoya carnosa seedling onto the river stones in the vase, spread out the root system, add clean water, add flower nutrient solution, and place it indoors or in a cool place.

(3) Management: One, spray the leaves with clean water once a day; after one or two days, spray the leaves with flower nutrient solution once every three to four days; two, change the water once every fifteen days, and add nutrient solution after changing the water; three, one month after potting, inject flower nutrient solution into the head of the Hoya carnosa, half a milliliter each time, and then inject once a month thereafter, to promote growth, flowering and prolong the flowering period.

(4) About two to three months after potting, it can bloom. After the flowers wither, prune the branches, change the water, add nutrient solution and inject, and it can bloom again.

There is a big difference between flower water culture and hydroponics

In recent years, some water-cultured and hydroponic flowers have become favored by people because they are fresh and environmentally friendly, elegant in style, easy to maintain, and easy to combine. On the surface, the cultivation forms of water-cultured and hydroponic flowers are the same, namely liquid maintenance, so many people conflate the two. In fact, they are clearly different.

Flowers used for water culture generally have enlarged bulbs, which store abundant nutrients. Their growth and flowering mainly rely on the nutrients stored in themselves. During cultivation, it is only necessary to soak the root system in clean water for fixation, with no need to supply nutrients. Flowers suitable for water culture mainly include narcissus, tulip, hyacinth, and lucky bamboo, etc. To make water-cultured flowers grow luxuriantly and bloom beautifully, the key is to choose fully developed bulbs to provide the nutrients needed during their growth process; second is to change the water frequently, insisting on changing the water once every 2 to 3 days (change the water once every 7 to 10 days for lucky bamboo), maintaining sufficient oxygen content in the water and improving root activity; third is to maintain sufficient sunlight so they grow robustly.

Hydroponic flowers, by contrast, involve fixing the plant roots on the cover board or floating board of a flower pot, soaking the root system in water, and the water must be equipped with reasonable inorganic nutrients, so flower hydroponics is also called nutrient solution culture. The habits and internal structure of flowers suitable for hydroponics are all suited to normal growth in water. At present, the main cultivated varieties include clivia, spider plant, Christmas cactus, Brazilian wood, evergreen, clustered taro, Swiss cheese plant, jade plant, Tradescantia zebrina, and Bryophyllum, etc.

Northeastern University in China, using bioengineering mutation technology, after 8 years of effort, has developed 9 series and more than 500 kinds of hydroponic flowers, including both herbaceous flowers and woody flowers; including both cactus and succulent plants, and flowering flowers such as clivia and Phalaenopsis. With technological progress, some high-grade flowers introduced from abroad in recent years, such as bromeliads, anthurium, and amaryllis, have also successfully achieved hydroponics. Some flowers with Chinese characteristics, such as Ludisia, have also achieved hydroponic domestication.

In truly well-mutated hydroponic flower plants, the traits of the root system have already changed, the root hairs have degenerated, and most are vertical-growing taproots, unlike the roots and root hairs of water-cultured plants, which are distributed in a net-like pattern. After aquatic mutation, the plant's water-root genes have been expressed, so the leaves of truly aquatic flower plants become larger and thicker, and the leaves and branches are more tender than those grown in soil.

The key to hydroponic flowers is to prepare the nutrient solution well. When preparing the nutrient solution, never use metal containers or containers that have held grease, acids or alkalis. When using tap water to prepare the nutrient solution, a small amount of humic acid compounds should be added to treat chlorides and sulfides in the water. For hydroponic flowers, add or replace the nutrient solution once a week, and note to control the pH value between 5.5 and 6.5. The replaced nutrient solution can be used as fertilizer for other crops.

Brief introduction to flower hydroponic techniques

Flower hydroponics is a common type of soilless cultivation. There are many methods, and several commonly used ones are briefly described below.

Deep flow technique: The characteristic is that the plant root system is wholly or partly immersed in the nutrient solution; the nutrient solution is flowing; the nutrient solution is mixed with air to dissolve oxygen.

Nutrient film (NFT) technique: The nutrient film technique was developed from the plastic bag technique. An appropriate amount of nutrient solution is put into a plastic bag to cultivate the plant. On this basis, further improvement was made: the plastic bag was changed to plastic film, laid on a frame of a certain shape; the nutrient solution is a thin layer 0.3 to 1.0 cm thick; part of the plant root system is immersed in the nutrient solution, and part is exposed to moisture; the nutrient solution flows; the plastic film is white outside and black inside to wrap the plant, forming an internal dark space.

The advantages are: it better solves the root system's oxygen demand for respiration; the structure is simple and lightweight, and the cost is low; plants grow quickly, easy to manage, and suitable for large-scale production.

Aeroponic technique: After the nutrient solution is atomized, it is sprayed around the plant root system. The mist condenses on the root surface, and the water is absorbed by the root system. The roots are continuously or discontinuously in an environment saturated with nutrient solution droplets, which well solves the problem of water, nutrient and oxygen supply, and plants grow quickly. Aeroponics can also be used when rooting cuttings.

Glass bottle hydroponic technique: For the aqueous solution, glass canning jars can be used. The bottle is wrapped around with black plastic film, or coated all over with black paint, or covered with a layer of black paper, to the degree that the inside of the bottle is lightproof. Shading is beneficial to root growth and avoids algae growth. In summer, a layer of white paper should be wrapped around the outside of the black bottle to lower the temperature. In winter, tear off the white paper, use a foam plastic board as the bottle cap, open a hole in the middle, clamp the plant in it, cover the bottle cap, and the top of the cap should also be black. Inject nutrient solution into the bottle, not too full, and leave a gap to give the plant oxygen for respiration. If it is water cutting to promote rooting, then there is no need to use nutrient solution; just inject water, and after roots grow, change to nutrient solution. Specific operation process:

Changing solution: For small seedlings, change the nutrient solution once every 1 to 2 weeks depending on the situation. For adult flowers, change the solution once a week during the peak growth season in summer, and once every 1 to 2 weeks in non-growing seasons.

Aeration: Open the bottle cap for a moment every morning and evening, letting the root system be fully exposed to the air. After a period of adaptation, aeration can be omitted for more than 1 month continuously.

Adding water: Flowers grow vigorously in summer and consume a lot of water, so water should often be added to the bottle to prevent the nutrient solution from drying up.

Preparation of hydroponic nutrient solution: Fertilizer tablets sold on the market or prepared chemical fertilizers can be used. If conditions permit, you can prepare it yourself, with the formulas as follows:

Formula 1: (pH value 6-6.5)

Potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.44 g/L; potassium sulfate 0.14 g/L; calcium nitrate 0.59 g/L; ammonium nitrate 0.19 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.53 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Formula 2: (pH value 6-65)

Calcium nitrate 1.64 g/L; magnesium sulfate 0.98 g/L; potassium nitrate 1.01 g/L; trace elements 2 mL; potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.27 g/L; Fe-EDTA 2 mL.

Preparation method of trace element solution:

Boric acid 2.86 g, zinc oxide 0.11 g, manganese chloride 181 g, copper dichloride 0.05 g, sodium molybdate 0.025 g. Dissolve the above chemicals in 800 mL of water, then make up to 1000 mL.

Multiple hydroponic methods for flowers

① Water cutting method: This is the simplest and easiest method to succeed. Cut part of the stem or branch from a selected mother flower plant, insert it into water, and under suitable conditions it will root, sprout and grow into a new plant. When cutting branches, cut 3-5 mm below the node, and the cut surface should be flat, with no longitudinal cracks. When cutting branches with aerial roots, protect the aerial roots well and insert them into water. Pothos, lucky bamboo, etc. are all suitable for this hydroponic method.

② Root washing method: Choose flowers with ornamental value, robust growth, and already formed through soil cultivation (or other medium cultivation), remove the soil, wash the root system, and then convert to hydroponics. When washing the roots, it is best to use running water. Plant the washed flowers in a prepared vessel, and inject tap water that covers 2/3-1/2 of the root system. At first, change the clean water once a day, and at the same time wash the roots and vessel. After a week, reduce the frequency of water changes. When the cultivated flowers grow new roots in the water, it indicates they have adapted to the hydroponic environment, and then water can be changed once every 7-10 days, or even longer.

③ Sucker stripping method: Suitable for flowers with strong suckering ability, such as clivia and bromeliads. The method is simple and the survival rate is high. Choose a relatively large sucker, remove the upper soil to expose the part connected to the mother plant, strip the sucker from the mother plant with your hands or a sharp blade (protect the roots of the sucker), wash off the soil attached to the roots, and cultivate it hydroponically.

④ Method of taking plantlets from runners: Some flowers produce runners during growth, and the runners bear one to many small plantlets. Most of the small plantlets have a small amount of fully developed roots, such as spider plant and hanging bromeliad. Taking advantage of this characteristic of the flowers, picking off the formed small plantlets for hydroponics is very simple and convenient.

For hydroponic flowers, it is advisable to choose Monstera (Monstera deliciosa), clivia (Clivia miniata), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), tillandsia (Tillandsia), Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema modestum), Rhoeo spathacea, lucky bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana), spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum), and bulb flowers such as tulips, lilies, hyacinths, amaryllis (Hippeastrum), and gladiolus.

Tips for Overcoming the Difficulties of Caring for Hydroponic Flowers in Summer

1. What are the difficulties of getting hydroponic flowers through the summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are ornamental plants grown in a non-solid medium (water or water with an appropriate amount of plant nutrient solution added). At present, most household hydroponic flowers are grown in still water, where dissolved oxygen is below 1 mg/l, and the flowers barely sustain life in an oxygen-deficient container. As summer temperatures rise, plant physiological metabolism becomes vigorous, microorganisms multiply in large numbers, oxygen consumption increases sharply, dissolved oxygen keeps decreasing, and water quality deteriorates, creating many unfavorable factors for the growth of hydroponic flowers, possibly causing root rot, withered branches and leaves, and even the death of the entire plant. Therefore, in summer, in addition to preventing extreme heat and high temperatures, increasing the oxygen content of the nutrient solution is the key to ensuring that hydroponic flowers safely pass the summer.

Water-grown silver-edge grass

2. How can the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution be increased?

Answer: There are many ways to increase dissolved oxygen, broadly summarized as chemical methods and physical methods. The following are several easy-to-operate and effective methods.

1. Increase the frequency of replacing the nutrient solution

Replacing the nutrient solution is the simplest way to increase dissolved oxygen. Measurements show that the dissolved oxygen content of fresh nutrient solution increases by 70%-90% compared with the original solution, which can promptly improve the physiological oxygen deficiency of the flowers.

For flowers that have already grown water roots, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution once every 3-5 days, and no more than 7 days at most. When replacing the nutrient solution, note that the temperature difference between the new solution and the original solution should not be too large; too large a temperature difference may cause physiological disorders in the flower roots.

When changing the solution, patiently rinse the roots with clean water, remove withered and rotten roots, and cut the aged roots shorter to stimulate new root growth.

If the nutrient solution suddenly becomes cloudy, or mosquito egg masses or mosquito larvae breed in it, the nutrient solution should be replaced with new solution immediately.

2. Oxygenation by vibration

For hydroponic flowers in smaller containers, as long as the roots are clear and undamaged and the nutrient solution is transparent, the vibration method can be used to increase oxygen. The operation method is to hold the flower steady with one hand and grasp the container with the other hand, gently shaking it more than 10 times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by more than 30%.

For hydroponic flowers with cloudy nutrient solution or poorly developed roots, the vibration oxygenation method is not suitable, and the nutrient solution must be completely replaced.

3. Use an automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers

Measurements show that the dissolved oxygen content in flowing water can reach 8-12 mg/l, while in still water it is only 1 mg/l. The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers was designed and made according to this principle. The entire frame is the flower-growing container, with a miniature circulation pump installed inside. The outlet end of the pump is connected to a set pipeline; when working, the nutrient solution circulates through the pipeline, increasing dissolved oxygen for the flowers to absorb. After the pump stops working, a certain liquid level is maintained around the roots. Growing with an automatic water changer is undoubtedly like letting hydroponic flowers soak in an "oxygen bar," and their growth is clearly better than with still-water hydroponics.

The automatic water changer for hydroponic flowers is generally cleaned and has its solution replaced once every 30-35 days.

4. Aerate the container

If, while cultivating hydroponic flowers, there is also a tank of ornamental fish nearby, you can use the spare air outlet tube of the fish tank air pump, connect a rubber tube, and put an air stone into the still-water hydroponic flower container to aerate it (the airflow should not be too strong, to avoid splashing the nutrient solution out). Using the flow of air to increase oxygen also gives good results.

3. What position is suitable for placing hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Most of the flower materials selected for hydroponic flowers are shade-tolerant foliage flowers and flowers grown for both flowers and leaves. Such as arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), white jade Chinese evergreen, calla lily (Zantedeschia), anthurium (Anthurium), and bromeliads. These flowers like warmth and humidity, tolerate slight shade, and avoid high temperatures and dry heat. "Hydroponics" only changes the cultivation form; it cannot change their growth habits or the environmental factors they require. In summer, it is best to place hydroponic flowers in a bright, slightly humid, cooler environment with good ventilation. Avoid direct sunlight, but do not keep them too shaded either, lest the flowers' photosynthesis be hindered, growth weaken, stem nodes elongate, and leaves become thinner. This can cause leaves of flowers with colored patches and patterns to lose their luster.

4. Can hydroponic flowers be placed in an air-conditioned room?

Answer: Yes. However, hydroponic flowers should not be placed directly facing the air outlet of the air conditioner; too fast an airflow can damage the branches and leaves, causing leaf curling in mild cases and scorched edges and withering in severe cases. Also consider that flowers have higher temperature requirements during the day than at night. If the air conditioner is turned off at night and the ambient temperature is higher than the daytime temperature when the air conditioner is on, it is unfavorable to the growth of hydroponic flowers.

When the air conditioner is on, place a basin of clean water beside the flowers or spray the leaves to increase ambient humidity. If the flowers are placed somewhat farther from the air conditioner outlet and the day-night temperature difference is not large, there is no problem.

5. What should be done if hydroponic flowers develop root rot?

Answer: As the temperature continues to rise, the water temperature also rises, microbial growth accelerates, dissolved oxygen decreases, and water quality deteriorates. Improperly adding nutrient solution, causing the dissolved concentration to be too high, may also cause root rot in hydroponic flowers, especially in Dracaena (Cordyline fruticosa) of the Liliaceae family, Madagascar dragon tree (Dracaena marginata, fine-leaved Dracaena), and rainbow tree (Dracaena concinna), which are more seriously affected.

The following methods can help root-rotted flowers recover their growth:

① Remove all rotten roots; if the stem has already been infected, also use a sharp knife to cut off the infected part.

② Soak the pruned flowers in 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for 10-20 minutes to sterilize.

③ Take out the soaked flowers and rinse them in running water.

④ Put the cleaned flowers back into the original container and grow them in clean water (the container should be washed clean).

⑤ Change the water once every 1-2 days, replacing only with clean water and not adding nutrient solution. If the water quality is clear, the frequency of water changes can be reduced. After 10-15 days of care, new roots can sprout.

⑥ When new roots first sprout, still grow them in clean water; wait until the temperature stabilizes at 18-25°C, then grow them with nutrient solution.

6. What should be done if algae grow in the nutrient solution?

Answer: Algae growing in the nutrient solution is a common phenomenon in the process of cultivating hydroponic flowers. Especially in summer, when the temperature is high, the container is highly transparent, the environment is bright, or the time between nutrient solution changes is too long, algae will multiply in large numbers. Algae compete with flowers for oxygen, and their secretions pollute the solution, causing the quality of the nutrient solution to decline. Algae attached to the flower roots hinder root respiration and interfere with the normal physiological activities of the flowers, causing great harm.

Once algae grow in the nutrient solution, decisively pour out the contaminated solution, thoroughly clean the container, brush off the algae attached to the roots, and replace with new nutrient solution.

At present, scientists in China are researching an "algae-eating insect" that can filter-feed on algae, called a natural "nemesis" of algae damage. Once the experiment succeeds and it is promoted for use, adding a small amount of "algae-eating insects" to the nutrient solution of hydroponic flowers can prevent algae from breeding.

Algae reproduction depends on relatively good light. Using a baffle or old newspaper to shade the hydroponic flower container and avoid direct strong light will relatively reduce the chances of algae breeding.

7. What fertilizer should be used for hydroponic flowers? How should fertilizer be applied in summer?

Answer: Hydroponic flowers are a special cultivation form, a cultivation method belonging to soilless culture. The flower roots are anchored in water (or a special plant nutrient solution), so it is also called nutrient solution culture.

Hydroponic flowers should be grown with plant nutrient solution matched to them. However, different flowers require different nutrient elements at different growth stages. If five or six bottles, or even more than a dozen bottles, of hydroponic flowers are grown at the same time, and the varieties differ, it is unrealistic to buy a bottle of matching plant nutrient solution for each kind of flower. For simplicity, a general-purpose plant nutrient solution can be chosen.

General-purpose plant nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth (including major elements and trace elements). The proportions of various elements are balanced, and the inorganic salts are in ionic form. They have a wide range of applications and are suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties at different growth stages. They are non-toxic, harmless, and their pH value and ion concentration are favorable for nutrient absorption.

There are many types of plant nutrient solutions sold on the market, with varying quality. It is best to go to a specialized hydroponic flower shop and choose products from manufacturers with good reputations.

There are differing views on whether to use nutrient solution cultivation or only clean water cultivation in summer. According to the author's experience, for flowers that are relatively tolerant of high temperatures and robust in growth, use nutrient solution cultivation; for flowers with fine roots that are in semi-dormancy or dormancy at temperatures around 30°C, use only clean water cultivation. Such as calla lily (Zantedeschia), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), mini Monstera, red gem (Philodendron), and Philodendron, using nutrient solution cultivation is suitable for maintaining growth advantages and enhancing ornamental quality. For flowers such as coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides), begonia (Begonia), and bromeliads, a bottle of clean water is enough to pass the summer safely.

When preparing the nutrient solution, strictly follow the proportions indicated in the instructions, and do not arbitrarily increase the concentration. This is because the root tissue structure of flowers sprouted under hydroponic conditions has changed, becoming looser and with larger cells than under soil cultivation. The cell walls become thinner, and they directly absorb water, nutrients, and oxygen from the nutrient solution, making them extremely sensitive to the concentration of the nutrient solution; too high a concentration is harmful to the flowers. As long as the concentration of major elements is not lower than the level of 1 micromole per liter, a lower concentration is beneficial to flower growth.

In summer, it is advisable to replace the nutrient solution once every 5 days.

8. Can soil-grown flowers be converted to hydroponic flowers in summer?

Answer: Converting soil-grown flowers to hydroponic flowers is most suitable in spring and autumn, when the temperature is around 15-25°C, suitable for flower growth, and the flowers easily adapt to the changed cultivation environment. To change the cultivation form of flowers in summer, consider the following factors: ① Choose varieties more closely related to wetland flowers. ② Flowers that still grow normally and develop soundly at around 30°C. Experiments have shown that arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum), mini Monstera, red gem Philodendron, green giant (Philodendron), pothos (Epipremnum aureum) of the Araceae family, and some bromeliad flowers have a relatively high survival rate when converted from soil cultivation to hydroponics in summer. They adapt quickly to the hydroponic environment, their roots rarely rot, and after 15-20 days of cultivation, not only do lateral roots grow from old roots, but water roots can also sprout from the root stem ends.

When converting from soil cultivation to hydroponics, the soil around the flower roots should be cleaned off completely. Rinse repeatedly to protect the roots from damage or minimize it. Use a larger-capacity container for cultivation, change the water once a day, and after five days, change the water once every 2-3 days. When the water roots grow to 5 cm long, grow them with low-concentration plant nutrient solution.

Hydroponic Method for Lucky Bamboo

Liliaceae, Dracaena genus, also known as wan shou zhu, native to Brazil and western Africa.

Characteristics

Evergreen shrub. The plant form is slender and upright, unbranched. Leaves are long lanceolate, deep green, with sheath-like petioles. Common types include golden-edge lucky bamboo, whose leaves have yellow longitudinal stripes. Silver-edge lucky bamboo, also known as silver-edged bamboo dracaena, is a small plant with silver-white longitudinal stripes along the leaf edges.

Habits

Likes high temperatures and high humidity; the overwintering temperature should be kept above 10 degrees. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, otherwise it will cause leaf scorch.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: When the air is too dry, it will cause leaf scorch; during the growing period, water should often be sprayed on the leaves.

2: Suitable for ample scattered light; when light is insufficient, the color of striped varieties will fade.

Hydroponic Method for Anthurium

Araceae, Anthurium genus, also known as flamingo flower and lampstand flower.

Characteristics

Perennial evergreen herb. Internodes are short, and leaves emerge from the base of the plant. Leaves are round-cordate or ovate, dark green. Flower stalks emerge from leaf axils. The spathe is upright and spreading, waxy, glossy, orange-red or scarlet, with a yellow spadix extending straight.

Habits

Likes high temperatures, high humidity, and a semi-shaded environment; avoid direct sunlight. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees, and it must be above 10 degrees for overwintering.

Propagation

Division, tissue culture.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Not cold-tolerant; in winter, heating and warmth must be provided.

2: Likes relatively high air humidity and a semi-shaded environment.

Methods for Obtaining Hydroponic Materials

Use the potted root-washing method

Hydroponic Method for Azalea

The characteristic of soilless culture is replacing soil with an artificially made substrate. The Hunan Provincial Academy of Forestry used solid substrate for soilless cultivation of azalea and obtained very satisfactory results. The variety was summer azalea. The soilless-cultivated plants had compact crown structure, more flowers, larger flower diameter, and fewer pests and diseases. It not only improved flower quality but also greatly reduced heavy physical labor, and is a cultivation method worth vigorously promoting.

1. Preparation of the substrate

Azalea roots are very fine and require a loose substrate to facilitate air permeability and drainage. Use 1 part vermiculite, 1 part pearl sand, 1 part river sand, and 1 part coal cinder mixed in proportion. After mixing the substrate, sterilize it with 0.1% carbendazim solution, mix it evenly into the substrate, and cover with plastic film for 1 day. Then rinse it multiple times with clean water, let it dry, mix it evenly with 0.4% agricultural compound fertilizer solution, and cover it with plastic film for one month, after which it can be used for potting.

2. Preparation of the nutrient solution

Azalea has relatively strict fertilizer requirements. During the growing period, apply light fertilizer frequently. According to experiments, using agricultural compound fertilizer as the main component, supplemented with trace elements, controlling the pH value at around 5, and spraying low-concentration foliar fertilizer can achieve good results.

Preparation of major elements: add 2 g agricultural compound fertilizer and 0.5 g magnesium sulfate to 1 liter of water as the standard solution.

Preparation of trace elements: add 20 g disodium edetate, 15 g ferrous sulfate, 4 g manganese sulfate, 6 g boric acid, 0.2 g zinc sulfate, 0.1 g copper sulfate, and 0.2 g ammonium molybdate to 1 liter of water as the mother solution. When using, add 1 ml trace element mother solution to 1 liter of standard solution to make the full-element solution. Preparation of foliar fertilizer: add 1 g urea, 1 g monopotassium phosphate, 0.02 g boric acid, and 0.1 g V.B1 to 1 liter of water.

3. Water and fertilizer management

Because the substrate has good drainage and air permeability but poor water retention, the amount of watering is generally a bit more than soil cultivation, just enough to keep the substrate moist. At this time, flower buds are forming and leaf buds are sprouting, so fertilizer demand is relatively high; water with full-strength nutrient solution once every 10 days or so. From March until the flower buds open, spray foliar fertilizer once every 15 days or so. After flowering, water demand is high; besides watering every day, sprinkle water on the leaves in the evening. At this time, fertilizer demand is also high, so it can be changed to watering with nutrient solution once a week and spraying foliar fertilizer once, to promote sturdy new branches and benefit flower bud differentiation. After the dog days begin, keep the substrate moist and sprinkle water on the leaves; fertilizer application can be reduced to watering with nutrient solution once every 20 days or so. After the autumn cools, gradually increase the amount of fertilizer, apply full-strength nutrient solution once every half month or so, and spray foliar fertilizer 1-2 times to promote robust flower bud growth. After winter begins, the physiological activity of azalea is weak, so fertilizer should not be applied; just water appropriately according to the degree of dryness or moisture of the substrate. During the cultivation process, basically no pests or diseases occurred.

Hydroponic Method for Broadleaf Lady Palm

Palmae, Rhapis genus, also known as guanyin bamboo. Native to Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Yunnan, and other places.

Characteristics

Evergreen clumping shrub. Stems are cylindrical, unbranched, jointed like bamboo, with brown coarse fibrous leaf sheaths, like palm. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, leathery, deep green and glossy, palmately deeply lobed, with 4-10 segments. Dioecious.

Habits

Likes warm, shady, humid, and well-ventilated environments. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees; in winter it should be kept above 4 degrees, and it can tolerate short periods of low temperature around 0 degrees.

Propagation

Generally by division combined with repotting. Choose large, densely clustered plants. First lift the plant out of the pot, then use a sharp knife to divide the clump into several clumps. When dividing, cut as few roots as possible, and keep a certain plant shape for the divided plants. Then repot them again, water thoroughly, place them in a semi-shaded, humid place, and frequently spray water on the leaves. After they resume growth, they can be transferred to normal care.

For sowing, after the seeds mature in autumn, sow them in pots immediately after collection, move them into a greenhouse in winter, and seedlings emerge the following spring.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Shade-tolerant, but when light is too weak it is prone to yellow leaves; when ventilation is poor, parasitic pests breed.

2: During the growing period, water should often be sprayed on the leaves.

Methods for Obtaining Hydroponic Materials

Potted root-washing is suitable. The root system of broadleaf lady palm is relatively hard in texture, so it is not easy to rot after hydroponics, but new roots sprout relatively slowly, requiring as long as one and a half months.

Hydroponic Method for Purple Velvet Plant

Native to Indonesia, Asteraceae, Gynura genus, also called purple velvet gynura, etc.

Characteristics

Purple velvet plant is a perennial herb or subshrub, with thick, many-branched stems. Leaves are opposite, long ovate. The leaf margins have relatively coarse double serrations. It is named for its stems and leaves being densely covered with purple-red fine hairs like velvet. Purple velvet plant has bright, beautiful, and elegant coloration, and is an excellent flower type for indoor cultivation.

Habits

Purple velvet plant likes ample sunlight, but during high temperatures in summer and autumn, it should be placed in a semi-shaded environment. Direct sunlight will cause leaf scorch due to sunburn, but when too shaded, the plant will fade and turn green. The overwintering temperature should be kept above 10 degrees.

Propagation

Purple velvet plant is propagated by cuttings. During growth, choose thick, strong branches, cut 10 cm-long shoot tips as cuttings, and after cutting, place them in a shaded, humid place; they can root in 2-3 weeks. After the cuttings grow, pinch them promptly to stimulate lateral branch sprouting.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Branches can be cut and inserted into water, and water roots can grow in more than 10 days. However, at high summer temperatures, root rot occurs easily.

2: Purple velvet plant grows rapidly; when branches reach an appropriate height, pinch them promptly to stimulate new shoot sprouting.

Hydroponic Method for Parlor Palm

Palmae, Chamaedorea genus, also known as dwarf coconut, etc., native to Mexico and Venezuela.

Characteristics

Evergreen small tree, with a short, small plant form. Stems are slender and upright, unbranched, dark green, with irregular ring patterns. Leaves are clustered at the top of the stems, pinnately compound, with 20-40 leaflets, sickle-shaped, dark green, and glossy.

Habits

Likes warm, humid, and semi-shaded environments. The suitable growth temperature is 20-30 degrees; at 13 degrees it enters dormancy, and the minimum winter overwintering temperature is 3 degrees.

Key points for hydroponic care

1: Avoid direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves will turn scorched yellow, but when too shaded, the leaf color will also fade.

2: Parlor palm is most beautiful at a plant height of 30-50 cm. When the plant is too tall, the lower part becomes bare and reduces ornamental value; when cultivating, small plants can be grown below.

Methods for Obtaining Hydroponic Materials

Use the potted root-washing method. After washing in water, new roots can grow in a few days.

Hydroponic Method for Cactus Ball

We know that cactus balls are favored by people for their unique drought tolerance and beautiful appearance, but because cactus balls use traditional cultivation methods, they have problems such as being dirty and difficult to manage, and more people kill their beloved plants because they cannot manage fertilizer and water well. Now the cultivation of cactus balls has entered a new stage: hydroponics.

1: Selecting the mother plant

First we need to select a robust cactus ball; the key is to choose a plant whose lower tuberous root section protrudes downward. Cactus balls grown by grafting onto Hylocereus undatus (three-ribbed sword) are easier to grow hydroponically.

2: Treatment

After selecting the mother plant, completely cut off the original dead roots at the bottom of the ball, keeping the cut surface smooth. Then rinse the soil clinging to the root tuber with clean water, and let it dry in a dry place for 3 days so the cut is completely dry.

3: Hydroponics

Prepare a glass bottle of suitable size, or make one from a mineral water bottle. Fix the selected and treated cactus ball at the mouth of the bottle with floral foam or styrofoam, then add nutrient solution below, with the liquid level just reaching the root tuber. In production we recommend making a glass trough 60-100cm long and 20cm wide (a transparent vessel makes it easy to observe the contact surface between the liquid level and the root tuber). Prepare a children's foam jigsaw puzzle board or a white construction foam board, and use a sharp knife to cut several small triangular holes in the board (for fixing Echinocactus grusonii, you can cut off the mouth of a used purified water bottle and use it upside down; note: cut off the bottle mouth so the roots of the golden barrel cactus can emerge through the cut opening, then place it in a flat-bodied container holding nutrient solution). Insert the Hylocereus undatus cuttings into the triangular holes; at this point the roots of all the Hylocereus undatus cuttings just touch the liquid surface.

4. Post-hydroponics treatment

Buy two magnets 6-10cm in diameter and place them in the vessel, in order to magnetize the nutrient solution and thereby speed up the emergence of water roots. (You can also buy a small wall-mounted submersible pump specially designed for ecological fish tanks from the market, attach it to the inner wall of the nutrient solution container, and switch on the power to achieve flowing, oxygenated circulation of the nutrient solution.)

5: Key points for hydroponic care

Place the planted cactus ball in an environment with relatively strong scattered light, keep the temperature above 20 degrees, and generally water roots will emerge in 3-7 days. Replace the nutrient solution immediately after water roots appear.

Note:

During the induction process, never spray water on the cactus ball, as this can easily cause the ball to rot and die.

What should be noted when growing Clivia miniata hydroponically at home

Hydroponic Clivia miniata is a hygienic and simple cultivation method. When growing it at home, note the following:

① Container selection. The bottom of the growing container should have no holes, and it is best to choose a transparent one, so you can enjoy the leaves, the flowers, and also its root system. You can use a glass bottle; you can also use a non-toxic plastic bottle or ceramic container. The size of the container depends on the size of the plant, and the mouth should not be too wide.

② The growing solution. It can be nutrient solution or clean water, but when growing in clean water you need to fertilize the leaves to supply the nutrients Clivia miniata needs for growth.

③ Changing the solution. Hydroponic Clivia miniata needs regular solution changes; the frequency depends on the weather. When the temperature is lower, change it about once a month; when the temperature is higher, change it once every 10 days. When changing the solution, be careful to wash the growing container clean.

How to grow Hippeastrum (amaryllis) hydroponically scientifically

In early winter, choose one or several large Hippeastrum bulbs that have already flowered or not yet flowered, cut off all roots and leaves, peel off the outer dark brown skin to reveal the white and green, and soak them in clean water. After about 48 hours, take the bulbs out, wash off the pasty substance at the cuts with clean water, dry them in the shade, and place them in a flower vessel. The flower vessel can be a bowl, a basin, or a narcissus basin, etc. Put in washed small stones, perlite, water-absorbing mountain stones, etc., then place the treated Hippeastrum bulbs on top. Then pour in clean water, preferably clear spring water (if using tap water, it must have been left standing for several days). The depth of the water should be enough to cover the small stones and other padding, or about 1 cm below the upper rim of the vessel. Finally place it in a spot indoors with sufficient light. Keep the room temperature at about 10°C, and in about 7-10 days leaves will begin to grow and roots to form. The water in the basin must always be kept at the original water level line. When the leaves grow to 2-3 cm, fertilizer must be added promptly; every 10-20 days, when adding water, add an appropriate amount of 1% urea solution or 0.03% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution or other compound fertilizer solution containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In late spring of the following year, plant the bulbs with roots into a flowerpot for routine care. Bulbs treated hydroponically in this way bloom slightly later than other conventionally potted Hippeastrum, just in time for the lean summer flowering period.

Technical management of hydroponics

1. What is hydroponics?
Answer: Hydroponics, also called soilless cultivation or nutrient solution cultivation, is an agricultural production technique that uses nutrient solution and supporting facilities instead of soil to grow crops. To fix the plants and increase air content, most hydroponic plants also use inert solid substrates such as sand, gravel, peat and perlite, so it is also called sand culture, gravel culture, peat culture, etc.
Since humans began farming, crops have been grown in soil, so the English word for agriculture is Agriculture, formed from Agr (soil) and Culture (cultivation). In 1699, the British scientist Woodward used 3 different kinds of water, namely rainwater, river water and garden soil leachate, to grow mint. As a result, the mint grown in the garden soil leachate grew fastest, leading to the conclusion that "plant growth is determined by certain substances in the soil." Unfortunately, due to the technical limitations of the time, Woodward did not carry out further research. It was not until 1859-1865 that the German scientists Sachs and Knop first conducted precise experiments in soilless cultivation, successfully growing plants with an artificial nutrient solution made from inorganic salts. They called this method hydroponics, and Sachs and Knop are therefore recognized as the founders of soilless cultivation technology.

◆2. What are hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic flowers are flowers grown using soilless cultivation technology. Hydroponic flowers are divided into medium-based hydroponic flowers and medium-free hydroponic flowers. Medium-based hydroponics refers to the sand culture, gravel culture, etc. mentioned earlier; medium-free hydroponic flowers are further divided into direct hydroponics, floating hydroponics, planting basket hydroponics, misting hydroponics, drip irrigation under nutrient film and many other cultivation forms. Each cultivation form has its advantages and disadvantages, but if judged only by beauty, durability and suitability for home cultivation, direct hydroponics is the most fashionable, beautiful and simple, so the hydroponic plants currently sold on the market are generally in the direct hydroponic form.

◆3. Why is the nutrient solution the key to successful hydroponic flower growing?
Answer: We all know that in a greenhouse environment, when inert substrates are used as the medium, soilless cultivation is already a very simple and mature technology, because computers control humidity, temperature, light intensity, nutrient solution injection time, etc. in real time, and specialized technicians use pH meters, conductivity meters, etc. to test the pH of the nutrient solution and the balance of each element in real time. But in a home environment these conditions are very hard to achieve. First, if hydroponic flowers placed in the home still use substrate cultivation, then there is no aesthetic difference from soil cultivation, so home hydroponic flowers should be medium-free soilless cultivation, and without a medium plants very easily develop rotten roots and odor; this requires that the nutrient solution must enable plants not to rot their roots, not to produce odor or any off-smell, and to grow normally when lacking oxygen. In addition, the hygiene needs of the home require that the nutrient solution not easily breed mosquitoes and insects and be non-toxic. Furthermore, home lighting cannot be adjusted at any time like in a solar greenhouse, which requires that the nutrient solution be able to lower the threshold of plant photosynthesis so that plants can also grow well in office and home environments. What is more, it is impossible to require every user to have specialized botanical knowledge like a botany expert, so the nutrient solution must also be convenient to use, easy to handle, and learnable by anyone at once. Therefore, hydroponic flowers suitable for home growing place higher technical demands on the nutrient solution.
Since humans mastered soilless cultivation technology, scientists have successfully researched no fewer than tens of thousands of nutrient solution formulas, but formulas that simultaneously meet the above requirements are very rare; moreover, because of commercial interests, the major flower companies treat their own nutrient solution technology as their top secret, so the nutrient solution formulas obtainable from public materials are only theoretical or experimental formulas, which can only serve as reference material and cannot be used in production activities. In fact, whether a nutrient solution is suitable for home use can be known at a single try: you only need to see whether the plants on display grow vigorously and whether water roots are growing, because, as the saying goes: "Practice is the sole criterion for testing truth!"

◆4. How do hydroponic flowers safely overwinter?
Answer: Generally, flowers go dormant below 5-8 degrees Celsius, and their tissues will become necrotic below 0 degrees Celsius. Therefore, if the indoor temperature is above 5 degrees Celsius, hydroponic flowers can generally overwinter safely; in the south, winter indoor temperatures generally do not fall below 5 degrees Celsius, and if a few days of extreme low temperature occur, this can be solved by lighting a 60-watt incandescent lamp above the flowers to create a local microclimate; in the north, because most interiors have heating, this can also meet the safe overwintering needs of hydroponic flowers.

◆5. Can hydroponic flowers only be grown from certain specific flowers?
Answer: In modern greenhouses, generally speaking, all our common popular flowers can be grown hydroponically. But in a home environment, because certain specific conditions cannot be met, at present only some semi-shade and shade-loving flowers can be grown, and in homes with a balcony the suitable varieties are somewhat more numerous.

◆6. Can ornamental fish grow normally in hydroponic flowers? How should water changes and regular feeding be handled?
Answer: Because the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution is completely non-toxic and rich in various minerals, fish can grow very well in it. Every one of our specialty stores has a demonstration of fish being raised in hydroponic flowers, precisely to convey this information to customers.
Generally speaking, only hydroponic flowers with a volume of more than one liter are suitable for keeping fish, and because the volume is limited, the fish species should also be chosen selectively. You should choose some fish species with strong adaptability, such as goldfish and small koi, etc. Some fish with strong aggression or strong destructiveness are also unsuitable for keeping in hydroponic flowers, because they will damage the plant roots; and some delicate fish are also unsuitable, because even raising them in a dedicated aquarium is difficult to succeed at, let alone in a relatively poor-conditioned small vase. Water changes can be done at the same time as the normal water change for the flowers, and feeding is the same as when we normally keep fish in a fish tank, with no difference.
Because the special substances in the "Hydroponic Flower King" nutrient solution can increase the oxygen solubility of the water, thereby facilitating the respiration of plant roots, the fish generally will not lack oxygen in the nutrient solution, so on non-especially hot days there is no need to install oxygenation equipment.

◆7. What are the requirements for the water used to dilute the nutrient solution for hydroponic flowers?
Answer: Hydroponic Flower King nutrient solution is a highly concentrated liquid and must be diluted before use; when diluting, generally tap water can fully meet the requirements, and there is absolutely no need to use bottled water or purified water. If well water or river water is used, a water quality test should be carried out to understand the mineral content composition in the water. If a certain mineral content in the water exceeds the standard, the nutrient solution formula should be adjusted to facilitate normal plant growth.
During the dilution process, tap water can be used directly to dilute the nutrient solution without waiting for the chlorine in the water to evaporate, because the unique formula in Hydroponic Flower King will make the chlorine in tap water evaporate quickly. However, if the water temperature and room temperature differ too much, the diluted nutrient solution should be left to stand indoors for a period of time, to prevent the plant roots from suffering root hair damage due to a sudden temperature change, which would cause the plant to wilt.

◆8. What is planting basket hydroponics?
Answer: Planting basket hydroponics is a hydroponic cultivation method that uses the principle of hydrotropism of plant roots. The principle of hydrotropism is that the root tips of plants always grow toward the direction with sufficient water. This is shown when the surface soil of a plant lacks water: in order to protect itself, the plant's root tips grow toward deeper soil, to absorb the water needed for the plant's growth and development and adapt to natural changes. At this time the root growth has a very obvious directionality; whereas plants growing in swamps or water, because they do not lack water, have messy root growth with no obvious directionality. Therefore, if you place a potted plant on the mouth of a wide-mouthed glass bottle filled with water, without the bottom needing to directly contact the water, with a gap of about 1-2 cm, and do not water the bonsai but only spray a small amount of water, after about a week the phenomenon of roots growing toward the water will appear at the bottom of the bonsai. At this time you do not need to add water; let its roots grow longer and longer as the water level drops; if you use some fast-growing plants for the experiment, the effect will be even more obvious. Similarly, you take a bonsai already full of water roots, remove it from the pot and fix the plant with a planting basket, garnish it with stones or decorations, and it becomes a pot of planting basket hydroponic flowers. The difference is that at this time, because there is no soil, you need to replace the clean water with nutrient solution, and it is that simple.

◆9. Why do hydroponic flowers need water changes?
Answer: Because plants absorb water and inorganic salts from the nutrient solution, the nutrients in the nutrient solution become fewer and fewer, and at the same time, because of root respiration and metabolism, harmful substances in the water become more and more, so hydroponic flowers need to be given fresh nutrient solution after a period of growth. In fact, this is the same principle as for soil-cultivated flowers: soil-cultivated flowers need fertilizing and need the soil changed once a year, also for this reason. For hydroponic flowers, in the vigorous growing spring and summer the water change interval should be shorter, and in autumn and winter when growth is slow it can be longer.

◆10. Why do hydroponic flowers sometimes become weaker and weaker or fail to grow vigorously?
Answer: It may be caused by your solution change interval being too long, the nutrient solution ratio being wrong (too dilute or too concentrated) or the light being too weak. If these factors are ruled out, then check whether the nutrient solution level is too high so that the plant roots cannot breathe normally, causing oxygen deficiency; if none of these apply, then we suggest you had best go to a Hydroponic Flower King specialty store for advice.

Exposing the hydroponic flower market -- distinguishing genuine from fake hydroponic flowers

At present many companies are developing franchise hydroponic flower stores, causing a great commotion across the country; in particular, one company in Beijing has franchise stores that will spread throughout the country. As a scientific researcher, I originally did not want to express many opinions, but in order to safeguard the healthy development of our country's hydroponic flowers, seeing all this I cannot help but grumble. Because the scams involved not only harm consumers' interests but will also cast a shadow over the hydroponic industry. Right now it is the low-temperature season, plant respiration is weak, and plants whose roots have been washed and then directly soaked in water can be grown in water for a period of time; plants with strong flooding tolerance such as Araceae plants can be grown in water for 1-2 months, but once the weather turns hot, plant physiological respiration becomes strong, and oxygen deficiency and root rot will immediately appear. A hydroponic work costing tens or hundreds [of yuan] to buy and take home is only a fleeting bloom, not only harming consumers' interests but also greatly affecting the development of the hydroponic industry. Now I use a scientific perspective to reveal the "deception tricks" in it.

1. The plants sold by franchise stores are basically Araceae plants. Once winter comes, these plants slow their growth and their respiration weakens; moreover, Araceae plants are relatively closely related to aquatic plants and have strong flooding tolerance. After their roots are washed and they are directly soaked in water, for a time no discomfort can be seen from the plant, but it is impossible for them to grow vigorously in water; they can only maintain the balance of water metabolism, while nutrient absorption and respiratory function are severely blocked. Once the weather turns hot, the root system will suffer oxygen deficiency, become smelly and rot. For other plants that are somewhat more terrestrial, their method simply cannot work, so this is the main reason they currently can only use Araceae plants for "deception." Their so-called induction liquid, I think, would be better and more honestly called "deception liquid." It is simply impossible for a plant to undergo changes in tissue structure within a few minutes.

2. Charging high franchise fees for franchise sales is itself a kind of commercial hype. If the goods were genuine and the price fair, there would be nothing to criticize; if the technology were unique, it could also monopolize the market and the franchise would truly have meaning. But the current kind of franchise can be called swindling money. First, the technology has no scientific or technical content at all: it is just washing roots and soaking in water, something even a fool could concoct at a glance. Absurdly, some training fees reach 18,800 yuan. Second, hydroponic technology itself has developed over decades and is no longer a technology exclusive to a certain company; using franchising simply cannot monopolize the market, and other hydroponic flower stores can operate just as well, and with better funding and more reliable technology than franchise stores. Once the franchise fee is paid, it is equivalent to being thrown away. Genuine hydroponic flowers are not suitable for long-distance transport; in fact, what they sell now are all products made from soil-grown seedlings after root washing, and "bare-root flowers" might be a more accurate name.

3. Tip: Araceae plants in late autumn, winter and early spring can also be grown in water for a period of time after their roots are washed and soaked in water. Everyone might as well try it; there is simply no need for any deception liquid.

I have studied hydroponics for many years and have also inspected several countries abroad with more developed hydroponic technology. Our country's current hydroponic market can be said to be full of charlatans of all kinds, a mixed bag with the fake passing for the genuine. However, in the end these franchise scams will still be cleared out by history and science. I remind everyone to keep their eyes open and not be led astray by deception liquid.

How to distinguish genuine from fake hydroponic flowers

Genuine versus fake hydroponic flowers is in fact the difference between induced flowers and non-induced flowers. At present, many hydroponic flower operators do not understand hydroponic flowers from a scientific perspective, but start only from the angle of commercial hype and personal profit, passing off some ordinary soil-cultivated plants as hydroponic plants and fooling consumers, causing very bad social impact. After some citizens buy them at high prices, the plants die from physiological discomfort after being kept only a short while, seriously hindering the healthy development of the hydroponic flower industry. In response to this problem, buyers can distinguish genuine from fake in the following aspects to avoid being cheated.

A. Judge by root morphology: Induced hydroponic flowers usually exist in the form of fibrous adventitious roots, and will not, like roots in soil, have distinctions of taproot, lateral root, capillary root and root hair, that is, they will not exist in the state of multi-level branched secondary roots. Even if there is branching, it is only a small amount of branching root based on fibrous adventitious roots, with few levels and a simple root structure, which is its most obvious feature. In addition, for some originally radicle plants, after induction the number of first-order adventitious roots increases markedly, that is, the root proportion is greatly increased, and the root system is numerous and well developed, like a beard.

B. Judge by root color: Plant water roots formed by aquatic induction mostly have the characteristic of being white, crisp and tender. Even for some varieties that show their natural root color, their water roots are clearly lighter in color than soil roots, such as yellowish-white, pale yellow, light brown, etc. This is related to the well-developed parenchyma tissue of water roots and the absence or low degree of suberization and lignification from cell wall thickening.

C. Judge by root completeness: Roots induced by aquatic conditions begin regrowth and differentiation from primary adventitious roots, and all of this is completed in a water environment, so the root system is complete. For some soil-cultivated plants, although they have been carefully rinsed, there are always slight injuries or serious residual roots; this completeness of the root system is difficult for soil-washed seedlings to achieve.

D. Judge by water clarity: Fake hydroponic works made from soil-washed seedlings, because the root system has not formed adaptability to water, will, in an anaerobic environment, carry out anaerobic respiration and release large amounts of toxic intermediate metabolites, making the water in the container quickly become cloudy or deteriorate, appearing to the naked eye as cloudy and not clear, that is, water quality deterioration or odor, followed by root rot and eventually seedling death.

E. Leaf angle can also be used to judge genuine from fake: In particular, for many herbaceous flowers extremely sensitive to ethylene, after induction their leaf attachment angle is clearly more flat than that of soil-washed seedlings from soil cultivation, that is, epinastic growth leads to an increased angle, or even drooping.

Increasing the dissolved oxygen content of hydroponic nutrient solution

Apart from the requirements for environmental factors such as light, temperature and humidity being completely the same as soil cultivation, hydroponic flowers differ vastly from soil cultivation in management in their requirements for water, fertilizer and oxygen -- Water: Home hydroponic flowers should use soft water as the water source, and generally tap water meeting national standards can be used. Tap water has undergone filtration, sedimentation and sterilization treatment, is clean and hygienic, and has a pH below 7, so it can be safely used to grow hydroponic flowers. River water, lake water, pond water and well water are polluted to varying degrees, are seriously eutrophic, and may differ greatly in various ions; if any one ion content exceeds the standard, long-term use will damage the plants or poison them to death, so these are not suitable as a water source for hydroponic flowers. Fertilizer: Home hydroponic flowers must use a low-concentration special nutrient solution based mainly on nitrate nitrogen fertilizer. Hydroponic flower nutrient solutions generally contain all the nutrient elements necessary for flower growth, with a balanced ratio of various elements, and inorganic salts in ionic state, suitable for the nutrient needs of different flower varieties and their various growth and development stages. They are also non-toxic, harmless, and of appropriate pH, which is conducive to nutrient absorption. It is inadvisable to crush soil fertilizer or granular chemical fertilizer and use it for hydroponic flowers. Short-term use may have no obvious effect on the flowers, but long-term application will inevitably hinder normal physiological metabolism. It is even more impermissible to use organic fertilizer as a fertilizer source for hydroponic flowers. Diluted urine can be used for foliar spraying, but must never be added to the nutrient solution. Oxygen: In home hydroponic flowers, the water (nutrient solution) is in a static state, and the dissolved oxygen is below /ppm/L; the flowers barely maintain life in an oxygen-deficient vessel, and their roots are commonly seen growing in reverse, extending toward the liquid surface, in order to breathe more oxygen. Therefore, increasing the oxygen content of the hydroponic nutrient solution is very necessary for the normal growth of flowers, especially in summer. There are several simple and easy ways to increase dissolved oxygen: 1. Increase the frequency of changing the nutrient solution. 2. Vibrate to add oxygen: fix the flower plant with one hand, and gently shake the vessel with the other hand 10 or more times. After shaking, the dissolved oxygen content of the nutrient solution can increase by about 30%. 3. Add an appropriate amount of "solid oxygen" to the nutrient solution or add 1% hydrogen peroxide (3% hydrogen peroxide solution). 4. Use a miniature submersible pump or an oxygenation pump (both standard aquarium products) to aerate the nutrient solution; plant roots in such an environment can obtain sufficient oxygen, respiration is very vigorous, and this promotes robust flower growth.

Seeing through fake hydroponic flower technology at a glance

For hydroponic flowers, the combination of flowers and fish, of movement and stillness, is the first impression it gives. The earliest concept in China sprouted around the turn of the 21st century (although the earliest people also grew some Araceae, lucky bamboo and similar easily water-grown plants in water, this concept does not belong to the currently popular "hydroponic flower" concept!). It rose in 2003, when many enterprises and units with market vision turned one after another to preliminary research and planning work in this industry. Coupled with the broadcast of "Hydroponic Flowers" on CCTV Channel 7 and Channel 2, it flourished from 2004 to 2005. Hydroponic flowers could be said to bloom everywhere in China, with some offering technical study and training, some producing at bases, and some franchising flower shops. Many fake hydroponic flower companies, enterprises and individuals, stimulated by profit, put on shows in the market. On one hand this played a role in fueling the hype of the domestic hydroponic flower market concept, letting many citizens understand and recognize this newborn concept and product; on the other hand, many investors and operators became the victims of this market tide. As for 2006, the great waves wash away the sand; those with their own core technology and production capacity, and with relatively strong economic strength and operating ability, could still survive in such a chaotic market tide, and those who could survive were very few. However, hydroponic flowers, such a fashionable flower product, represent a new trend and new tide in the development of the flower industry. Driven by economic interests in the market economy, there are still a small number of speculators existing in the market!

The author has been in this line of work for three or four years and is relatively familiar with this industry. In view of the uneven quality of the current hydroponic flower market, this article makes a systematic analysis and summary, all to give the broad masses of citizens who love hydroponic flowers, as well as investors interested in joining the hydroponic flower industry, a preliminary and comprehensive understanding, for everyone's reference:

Two, what are genuine hydroponic flowers?

From a sensory point of view, using glass vases of various shapes, planting plants and flowers on top (at present, the variety scope of hydroponic technology has been expanded to include other woody, vine and succulent plants), and keeping a few lovely small fish below, this is hydroponic flowers (plants)! But from a technical level, genuine hydroponic flowers refer to those cultivated and grown through various biological, physical, computer and other technical means, so that the physiological traits of their root system change, having a water root system with plant aerenchyma tissue, and being able to adapt to water cultivation for a long time, only then can they become genuine hydroponic flowers (plants)!

Three, how to identify genuine hydroponic flowers?

Judging from the senses:
Report on the current state of hydroponic flower technology. One, introduction:
For a successful genuine hydroponic plant, the plant root system that has undergone induction and acclimatization should have white, elegant roots with many fibrous roots, very clearly different from soil-cultivated plants; the roots of soil-cultivated plants are all relatively dark black in color! (Except for the few plants whose root color has its own unique color, such as Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum, whose roots, branches and stem sections are all dark red after induction! There are also some plants whose roots are nearly white after the soil is removed!)

In addition, if the plant's growth condition is not very robust and the leaves are drooping, it shows that it was only just planted in the bottle not long ago and was placed there to deceive users! Even if it has undergone induction, it cannot be sold as a commodity!

Judging from the technology:

Judging from the technology:

1) Does it possess a professional technical level?

If, as some merchants say, all that is needed is so-called "induction liquid," "acclimatization liquid" and "nutrient solution," soaking the plant in water for a few days or a few hours, with some even saying that hydroponic flowers can be achieved in just a few tens of minutes or a few minutes, this claim can only fool those who do not understand biotechnology. Anyone who understands biological principles knows that if the plant root system is severely oxygen-deficient in water, the roots will soon carry out anaerobic respiration, thereby fermenting and rotting. Thus a large amount of fermentation matter accumulates in the bottle, mosquitoes breed, insects appear, the water becomes turbid and unclean, and the plant soon dies!
Only when the induction of the plant's water root system is truly achieved, forming hydroponic plants with aerenchyma tissue that can well adapt to the low-oxygen state in water, can they truly be called hydroponic flowers. And the cultivation of the water root system cannot be fully completed and achieved by nutrient solution alone; it requires combining multiple methods and means such as biological, physical and computer ones, and after a relatively long period of cultivation, fully adapting to the water environment, only then can it become professional genuine hydroponic flowers!

2) Does it have a relatively strong level and ability in artistic combination?

Hydroponic flowers belong to mid-to-high-end consumption, and their ornamental value lies in: an artistic combination and arrangement. Each product lies in its artistic glass bottle container, beautiful plant shape, white and elegant root system, and the perfect combination and arrangement of fish, water and grass and other decorations in the bottle! Whether it is a professional hydroponic flower work, apart from the natural senses, a relatively strong artistic combination cannot be put together by an ordinary beginner! From this technical level, we can tell at a glance whether the manufacturer possesses such aesthetic level!

3) Does it have the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers and a fixed supply channel?

Whether it has the facility conditions for producing hydroponic flowers can also show whether a merchant has the ability for professional hydroponic flower production. If there is neither fixed production facilities nor a powerful and branded manufacturer as a supply source, then such a hydroponic flower provider is very likely passing off soil-cultivated plants, after root washing, as "hydroponic flowers"!

Checking from the varieties:

The varieties of hydroponic flowers that a truly professional hydroponic flower producer can produce are not limited to plants such as those in the Araceae and Crassulaceae families, like Alocasia macrorrhizos, Philodendron bipinnatifidum, lucky bamboo and Monstera deliciosa, which are themselves easily water-grown plants. These plant varieties are themselves close to water and hydrophilic, and ordinary methods can achieve their cultivation in water. A professional producer should be able to achieve hydroponics of various woody plants and various water-fearing plants, such as sago palm, cactus ball, Pachira macrocarpa, Polyscias fruticosa, and even Taxus chinensis, Osmanthus fragrans, fruit trees, etc.! If the plant varieties a merchant can provide are single, it is definitely not a professional hydroponic flower manufacturer!

Checking from time:

Time is the ultimate and only criterion for testing hydroponic flowers. If a plant cannot adapt to water cultivation for a long time but is only a fleeting bloom and dies within a few days, many of these are hydroponic flowers that speculators produce by washing off the soil-cultivated root system and in just a few hours; within a few days the flower blooms and then the flower falls! Therefore, at present, for those operators who cannot provide a shelf life guarantee for their goods, most are speculators. If a merchant cannot provide a shelf life guarantee for the goods, it is recommended not to buy, so as to avoid being cheated!
Four, how to identify a genuine professional hydroponic flower producer?

Driven by profit, many market speculators use various "formal" means in publicity and in information transmission channels to deceive and fool the broad masses of consumers and investors. In order to leave no foothold for the so-called high-tech shell companies and "guerrilla" technology transfer companies that have no genuine hydroponic flower technology, no base, no scale, and no technical personnel, that rent a few offices for work inside national universities (such as: Wuhan University, University of Science and Technology Beijing, Tsinghua University, Huazhong Agricultural University, China Agricultural University, Beijing Forestry University, etc.), inside research institutes (such as: Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, Chinese Academy of Sciences, Chinese Academy of Forestry, a certain research center, etc.), inside institutions subordinate to the Ministry of Agriculture (such as: the Veteran Cadre Bureau of the Ministry of Agriculture, a certain technology center of the Ministry of Agriculture), or inside office buildings, and then start advertising to rake in money. This also deprives of a deceiving market those who maliciously transfer some immature so-called "hydroponic flower technology" at low prices, and moreover, so that you can learn these several genuine technologies.

The author solemnly reminds: No matter where across the country or on what media you see similar technology or similar advertisements, you must keep your eyes open and be more vigilant; look at several more, compare more; you must carefully compare the unit's scale, technical strength, personnel quality, product quality and after-sales service, {{remember: you must look at their flower shop products, and then ask for the phone numbers of their franchisees, and try to go to the franchisees to take a look, to confirm the authenticity of the technology. Many places may not provide this to you, so then you must think thrice before acting; this is the most direct and ultimate way to judge. Of course, besides this, those "high-level" companies will also, like "medical shills," "academic shills," "housing shills" and "drinking shills," fool you with the skill level of the "great deceiver" Zhao Benshan, making it impossible for you to guard against it!}}; you must carefully check the authenticity of the technology, the training ability, and the relevant certificates; you must absolutely not be deceived by these so-called high-tech companies, bringing you unnecessary economic and spiritual losses. Besides distinguishing whether something is genuine hydroponic flowers through the product itself, in fact, everyone only needs to be a bit more vigilant to see through one by one the many speculators. The following few points of experience, several types


 How to carry out root-outside fertilization of hydroponic flowers

Static hydroponics is a cultivation method under the condition of root oxygen deficiency, which will cause certain defects in the normal development of flowers. In order to improve the quality of the flowers, the method of foliar fertilization can be used to supplement nutrient elements. During the vegetative growth period of the flowers, a 0.2% potassium nitrate dilution can be sprayed on the leaves.

A fine-hole spray can should be used, and one should try not to let the fertilizer liquid run off; the back of the leaves should also be sprayed. Spray once a week, twice during the growing period, and this can make hydroponic flowers flourish with lush branches and leaves. For flowers suitable for foliage viewing and also for flower appreciation, such as Spathiphyllum (white flag), Begonia cucullata, Begonia maculata and Zantedeschia aethiopica, during the bud stage you can spray a 0.15% potassium dihydrogen phosphate dilution once a week onto the leaves until the flowers open.